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#1
Mechanicals / Re: What have you done for you...
Last post by daantjie - Yesterday at 05:24 PMVery nice consumption 
For the grease to come out from under the cap would be unusual as the fit of that grease cap is super tight but I guess not impossible. Maybe the bearing is overheating and melting the grease into liquid form? Likely you will have to completely strip out the bearing and have a look but my guess would be the bearing is cooking the grease out. You can do a quick test after driving. If the wheel is very hot to the touch after a drive then likely you have a bearing too tight (preload not set properly), or dragging caliper(or both of course).
For the grease to come out from under the cap would be unusual as the fit of that grease cap is super tight but I guess not impossible. Maybe the bearing is overheating and melting the grease into liquid form? Likely you will have to completely strip out the bearing and have a look but my guess would be the bearing is cooking the grease out. You can do a quick test after driving. If the wheel is very hot to the touch after a drive then likely you have a bearing too tight (preload not set properly), or dragging caliper(or both of course). #2
Mechanicals / Re: What have you done for you...
Last post by Jan S - Yesterday at 04:34 PMI did the return trip this weekend (see previous post). A total of 4.777 km (2.970 miles) since the car left home in May.
A fantastic driving machine, a pleasure to drive.
The fuel consumption for the return trip was 1,55 liter/10 km (15,2 mpg), which is very good and normal I would say for a 6.9 ... more so than 1,41 liter/10 kilometers (16,7 miles per gallon) I measured during the beginning of the trip in May.
A few issues require some attention:
1. Need a new power steering pump (I knew this before I started the trip)
2. Need new headlight bulbs
3. Check the front wheel bearing on the right side ... something is not right (grease has been coming out of the center cap, and traces of grease can be found on the lower parts of the two doors and the rear end of the car. This has never happened before)
4. A thorough wash and polish
Fall/Winter is coming, hence this was probably the last big tour this year.
A fantastic driving machine, a pleasure to drive.
The fuel consumption for the return trip was 1,55 liter/10 km (15,2 mpg), which is very good and normal I would say for a 6.9 ... more so than 1,41 liter/10 kilometers (16,7 miles per gallon) I measured during the beginning of the trip in May.
A few issues require some attention:
1. Need a new power steering pump (I knew this before I started the trip)
2. Need new headlight bulbs
3. Check the front wheel bearing on the right side ... something is not right (grease has been coming out of the center cap, and traces of grease can be found on the lower parts of the two doors and the rear end of the car. This has never happened before)
4. A thorough wash and polish
Fall/Winter is coming, hence this was probably the last big tour this year.
#3
The ORG / Re: w116.org down?
Last post by admin - 15 September 2024, 06:02 PMI expect that all issues have been resolved.
Please email [email protected] if you are having further issues.
Please email [email protected] if you are having further issues.
#4
Mechanicals / Re: M110 engine timing setup
Last post by Max-NL - 15 September 2024, 06:16 AMAccording to the workshop manual : https://handbook.w116.org/Engine/110/01-415.pdf
On some vibration dampers there are two 0|0 marks with a 180° difference, for TDC and BDC. If this is the case TDC is the 0|0 mark with a pin next to it. BDC 0|0 mark should not have a pin next to it.
You need to align it to the 0|0 mark next to the pin, this will be TDC for the crankshaft.
On some vibration dampers there are two 0|0 marks with a 180° difference, for TDC and BDC. If this is the case TDC is the 0|0 mark with a pin next to it. BDC 0|0 mark should not have a pin next to it.
You need to align it to the 0|0 mark next to the pin, this will be TDC for the crankshaft.
#5
Test Drive / Re: My 6.9's
Last post by Max-NL - 14 September 2024, 03:57 PMIt will all be worth it once the fresh and shiny paint is applied 
#6
Mechanicals / Re: M110 engine timing setup
Last post by rumb - 14 September 2024, 03:44 PMI'll get back as soon as the online manual is working again.
#7
Test Drive / Re: My 6.9's
Last post by rumb - 14 September 2024, 03:39 PMRear of car and fender epoxy coated. Now a couple of weeks of bondo .
#8
The ORG / Re: w116.org down?
Last post by admin - 14 September 2024, 02:46 PMWe're working on it. Shouldn't be too much longer...
#9
Mechanicals / Re: M110 engine timing setup
Last post by fichtl500 - 14 September 2024, 11:04 AMI don't understand anything anymore. I don't know where to set the crankshaft. The line on the engine block is for the sensor. I don't have a cam puller. I had a lot of trouble putting the chain in there at the same time as the crankshaft.
You say I have it wrong, that means my crankshaft is wrong by one tooth.
You say I have it wrong, that means my crankshaft is wrong by one tooth.
#10
Mechanicals / Re: M110 engine timing setup
Last post by rumb - 14 September 2024, 10:18 AMCant access manual currently due to web issues.
TDC should be the crank line that has 0 on each side, as is BDC. The pin is for the the crank position sensor.
WITH NO CHAIN INSTALLED, TDC AND BDC are the same thing, the #1 piston will be at top of stroke. Remember the cams turn 1/2 speed of the crank.
Put crank on 0/0 mark and then line up cam marks. Then instal chain.
TDC should be the crank line that has 0 on each side, as is BDC. The pin is for the the crank position sensor.
WITH NO CHAIN INSTALLED, TDC AND BDC are the same thing, the #1 piston will be at top of stroke. Remember the cams turn 1/2 speed of the crank.
Put crank on 0/0 mark and then line up cam marks. Then instal chain.