News:

The ORG - No shonky business!

Main Menu

Tire change Causes suspension issue?

Started by carzilike, 19 September 2023, 01:11 PM

carzilike

Hi all, I bought a 1977 280SE sight unseen because it was a 4spd manual EURO car. The car probably sat for 3-5 years from the amount of spider webs it had inside out.. Even after a 6 hour detailing job - spiders still exist and continue to weave webs inside

The tires were probably 20+ years old and I had them replaced at a reputable tire shop. They lifted the vehicle on a hoist at the correct jack points and now the car is making one hell of metallic clunking noise that repeats itself when turning left at anything over 5km/h

Sounds like something is skipping / clunking constantly until steering is corrected back to straight angle. I don't hear it when going over bumps or pot holes etc. Its only when turning - the faster the turn - the louder and more repetitive the noise...

Not sure what could have happened because all they really did was take tires off the old rims and put a set of used tires on the same 14" rims - factory size tires and rims are steelies.. I am now afraid to drive with this noise when turning. I can feel something clanking in the suspension and It sounds axle related.. has anyone experienced this? I don't see any leaks from the axle boots but also noted the clamps around the boots are not OEM and likely have been replaced at some point


amilio

I almost guarantee it's the rear sway bar links; being lifted up for the tire change put the last bit of stress on the old plastic. They are a very cheap part and can be done yourself with a jack. Just make sure you replace both at the same time!
1979 300 SD "Liesel", 282k Miles

carzilike

Thank you. Do you know where I can order these? Any way to test them out to ensure they are the culprit?

rumb

#3
Incorrect wheel weights can hit the frame when turning - full turn.(MB uses beveled edge weights)  I always ask shop to use stick on weights on inside of wheel only. Incorrect style of weights can actually slide back and forth on rim as the clamp part is incorrect - BTDT.

Insure correct lug nuts - style and length -  and torque.

Do steelies use the lug nuts with the balls?  make sure whatever lugs you have seat correctly and are not too long as it will hit other parts.

Is noise front or back?  left or right?

Jack front up and turn full and spin wheel by hand - does that make noises?


RE: rear links - just jack up rear of car - use stands and look under car for sway bar links.


https://nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/epc/mercedes/1/fg/116024/040/32/001/
part #127  1233200989
Available from MB.
'68 250S
'77 6.9 Euro
'91 300SE,
'98 SL500
'14 CLS550,
'16 AMG GTS
'21 E450 Cabrio

Jed

Curious?

Please let us know what you discover......
1979 Mercedes 6.9 #5206 - restored
1979 Mercedes 6.9 #6424 - ongoing restoration
1976 Mercedes 6.9 #484 - restoration?

amilio

Here are the links I installed on my car: Rear Sway Links. You should be able to see whether the part is broken on not by looking behind the rear wheels with a flashlight. The sound comes from the broken end banging up against the dust guard for the brakes.
1979 300 SD "Liesel", 282k Miles

carzilike

Hey guys, here is a video that I compiled while driving around 20km/h - the sound occurs and it sounds like something is getting caught up somewhere and then skipping / hitting against something else. Its metallic clanking. Thats the best I can describe it. If I turn slow, there's no noise. When turning right - there's some noise but not as bad as this..


Nabstud

Sounds more like the tyre is catching on something? How low does the car sit, is the tyre catching on the guard?
Can you turn the steering wheel while parked and check all clearances.
1975 280S - Australian delivered

Alec300SD

Quote from: carzilike on 21 September 2023, 05:16 PMHey guys, here is a video that I compiled while driving around 20km/h - the sound occurs and it sounds like something is getting caught up somewhere and then skipping / hitting against something else. Its metallic clanking. Thats the best I can describe it. If I turn slow, there's no noise. When turning right - there's some noise but not as bad as this..
BTDT. Heavy clunking on left turns, worse at higher speeds,  most likely very worn RIGHT CV joint.
Clunk is from binding of the joint.

My 79 300SD had known torn CV boots. After dropping off a 3.06 ratio 210mm differential for a Wavetrac upgrade,
the clunk would get so bad that I had to exit the freeway multiple times.
On the vacant frontage roads I would drive in reverse multiple times to unbind the stuck CV joint(s).

One trick to get more life out of the CV joints is to switch them right for left.
Doing so allows the old joints to run in the opposite direction that is not as worn.




78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014
79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022

carzilike

Quote from: Nabstud on 22 September 2023, 06:44 AMSounds more like the tyre is catching on something? How low does the car sit, is the tyre catching on the guard?
Can you turn the steering wheel while parked and check all clearances.

the sound is coming purely from rear left when driving
there is some kind of sound when going right but not this loud

carzilike

Quote from: Alec300SD on 22 September 2023, 09:33 AM
Quote from: carzilike on 21 September 2023, 05:16 PMHey guys, here is a video that I compiled while driving around 20km/h - the sound occurs and it sounds like something is getting caught up somewhere and then skipping / hitting against something else. Its metallic clanking. Thats the best I can describe it. If I turn slow, there's no noise. When turning right - there's some noise but not as bad as this..
BTDT. Heavy clunking on left turns, worse at higher speeds,  most likely very worn RIGHT CV joint.
Clunk is from binding of the joint.

My 79 300SD had known torn CV boots. After dropping off a 3.06 ratio 210mm differential for a Wavetrac upgrade,
the clunk would get so bad that I had to exit the freeway multiple times.
On the vacant frontage roads I would drive in reverse multiple times to unbind the stuck CV joint(s).

One trick to get more life out of the CV joints is to switch them right for left.
Doing so allows the old joints to run in the opposite direction that is not as worn.






I may try this. I see no leaks from the CV joints but they do look like they must have been replaced at least once by now. Trouble is that I don't have the ability to DIY this job so I'll have to pay something to do it and I want to be sure that is the issue before I get it done

rumb

What has inspection of underside revealed? Drive shaft, half shafts, suspension, muffler,etc?
'68 250S
'77 6.9 Euro
'91 300SE,
'98 SL500
'14 CLS550,
'16 AMG GTS
'21 E450 Cabrio

Nabstud

Quote from: carzilike on 22 September 2023, 11:05 AM
Quote from: Nabstud on 22 September 2023, 06:44 AMSounds more like the tyre is catching on something? How low does the car sit, is the tyre catching on the guard?
Can you turn the steering wheel while parked and check all clearances.

the sound is coming purely from rear left when driving
there is some kind of sound when going right but not this loud


Ah sorry I missed the rear wheel bit!
1975 280S - Australian delivered

amilio

Quote from: rumb on 22 September 2023, 03:57 PMWhat has inspection of underside revealed? Drive shaft, half shafts, suspension, muffler,etc?
Yes, did the sway bar links look intact? That's almost the exact same sound mine made when they were broken.
1979 300 SD "Liesel", 282k Miles

carzilike

As you guys suggested, its broken. I will order new ones. Is it a long job to replace both sides?