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Sealing cord 000 997 90 41

Started by fichtl500, 07 March 2024, 03:56 PM

fichtl500

Is there any possibility of replacing the sealing cord. Without disassembling the timing chain?  000 997 90 41 / 0009979041


UTn_boy

In order to replace the sealing cord in the block the crankshaft must be removed.  It cannot be "slid" in, as there is a pointed dowl pin that holds it in place. 

Pay particular attention to the installation procedure in the manual.  There is no room for error, otherwise it'll leak, and you'll have to remove the engine and take it completely apart again. 
1966 250se coupe`,black/dark green leather
1970 600 midnight blue/parchment leather
1971 300sel 6.3,papyrus white/dark red leather
1975 450se, pine green metallic/green leather
1973 300sel 4.5,silver blue metallic/blue leather
1979 450sel 516 red/bamboo

fichtl500

Quote from: UTn_boy on 09 March 2024, 02:34 PMIn order to replace the sealing cord in the block the crankshaft must be removed.  It cannot be "slid" in, as there is a pointed dowl pin that holds it in place. 

Pay particular attention to the installation procedure in the manual.  There is no room for error, otherwise it'll leak, and you'll have to remove the engine and take it completely apart again. 

I did a lot of searching and although I am handy and have no problem with such settings on modern cars. I'm not going to do this, I'm going to hope or ignore the leaking oil. Changing (hard-to-find) parts for over $500 for a 20 buck gasket doesn't seem adequate to me.

rumb

What is the condition of the rest of the engine?  Bearings? crank journals?, Cylinder bore wear, etc?

I cant imagine taking an engine that far apart and then not finishing the job. Pistons are easy to remove and replace.  Just go ahead and remove the crank. Then take the entire block to a shop and have it tanked and inspected. I cant imagine them charging even $100 to install new rear main seal for you.  Even if everything comes back fine, I would want the peace of mind. I see rust on your crankshaft.  That should be inspected.
'68 250S
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fichtl500

Quote from: rumb on 09 March 2024, 05:27 PMWhat is the condition of the rest of the engine?  Bearings? crank journals?, Cylinder bore wear, etc?

I cant imagine taking an engine that far apart and then not finishing the job. Pistons are easy to remove and replace.  Just go ahead and remove the crank. Then take the entire block to a shop and have it tanked and inspected. I cant imagine them charging even $100 to install new rear main seal for you.  Even if everything comes back fine, I would want the peace of mind. I see rust on your crankshaft.  That should be inspected.

I believe it was good, the engine worked until I took it apart. It stood cleaned for some time, and here and there it caught a bit of surface corrosion.

I already took it apart, I had a little trouble with the chain. I checked the screws, the connecting rods are like new (upper tolerance) but I don't know how to check the main ones.

A new screw costs about 62 euros. My stomach cramps when I think about putting old screws in there. Grandma, help

https://www.niemoeller.de/en/w126/mb280se-126022-motor-110989/B022/010101/d01041-screw