Power window won't go all the way up or down, nasty grinding sound.

[Casey]

Well, I guess the parts got brittle from sitting as long as they did.  Today I rolled the driver side window up, and once it was up, there was a loud clunking sound.  I rolled it down a bit, and then it wouldn't go back up.  Then it started spitting rain, but never really started raining, fortunately.  Got home, disassembled the door (I'm getting fast at this now!), and found the problem - the entire metal assembly shattered apart:




I found these parts inside the door:



The small ones are from the inner door handle, which was broken when I bought the car.  The medium one is identical to the two smaller pieces from the passenger door.  The big one I'm guessing is why the door doesn't stay open at all, and some piece of whatever it was attached to.

What I'm wondering is - are the small cast metal pieces, along with the piece attached by a screw to the steel piece, AND the broken power window piece, all pieces of the same part?  And if so, what part is this that I would need to replace - the motor itself?  It seems to me that this stuff is pretty brittle, but I'm wondering if that's just because it's old.  I really like having power windows simply because I like being able to roll all the windows down/up while driving, but with the front two both breaking in a few days, I'm thinking more about converting all the windows to manual.  If I buy new parts for the power motors, can I expect them to hold up for another 30 years as these did?  Or are there some better aftermarket solutions that are made to be more durable?

By any chance, is there any such a thing as windows that can be hand-cranked, but also power-driven (spinning the handles as it went)?  That would be awesome, but I have never heard of or seen any such thing and it would require a motor that only engaged when used, unlike the current power motors that stay engaged at all times.

[vlv8vic]

The cast pieces you found are the bits which stop the door closing when you open it.  You know, at a certain point the door sorta pops or clicks and stays in the open position rather than closing itself? (depends too on how stiff the hinge is).  Mine are busted and the door closes itself - usually on my leg or foot  

Are you sure?  Because this door actually stays open in two possible open positions quite well, and it's the one I found the pieces in.  The driver side door, on the other hand, does not hold itself open anymore.  I haven't looked inside it yet (and now may just replace it).

INteresting  - i always thought i was sure of this.  Mine showed up when the door stopped clipping (freshly broken) so it's always been a safe assumption.  In my search on here i believe i confirmed my theory.
Possibility that the door was repaired and the pieces were left in the door - I've never looked into repair so not sure how you;d know.

I'm not so much drawn to your handle and electric version windows - i can't fathom the point other than a failsafe should something go wrong.
The motor is probably fine. It unbolts from the broken cast part.
If you replace the cast parts and clean and lube everything properly there's no reason it won't last another 30 years.

[jbrasile]

Casey, the long piece with the bolt is one of the blades from the door strap, the device that keeps you doors open in two stages.

They are running $75.00ea new 116 720 0016. These parts are notorious for braking where you see the bolt. They can actually be welded if you can locate a good welder in your area and should last a while longer. Look at the front of the door and you will see a 10mm nut and 2 10mm bolts that hold the strap to the door, remove those along with the pin on the A pillar which is held in place by a circlip and you can withdraw the whole assembly from the door.  You may be able to find used ones at a local junk yard and if you do get the pieces from the rear doors, they tend be in much better shape. To keep the car looking original have the new strap painted body color or transfer the painted part from the old one to the new one.

Obviously you also need a new window regulator:

116 720 11 46 - $354.00 list.... $318.60 your cost, ooouch.....

Tks,

Joe

[Casey]

Casey, the long piece with the bolt is one of the blades from the door strap, the device that keeps you doors open in two stages.

*nods*, I figured as much...

They are running $75.00ea new 116 720 0016.

Is that the blade?  I don't think I should need a new blade - just the cast piece that it was bolted to.  Unless I'm mistaken the blade appears still usable.

Look at the front of the door and you will see a 10mm nut and 2 10mm bolts

Yeah, these and the phillips screws were all quite loose.  I tightened them up today.  I'll disassemble more thoroughly when it isn't cold and spitting rain out as it was today. Today I just wanted to get the window back up.

Obviously you also need a new window regulator

Do I?  Or don't I just need the cast metal part?  The motor seems fine still.

The passenger side I'm more confused about, but will play around with it more when I have time again - probably over the weekend.  We'll see.

As for the driver door I'll wait to see what happens with insurance, but if the collision damages are going to come out of my pocket, I'm more keen on just finding an entire door to swap out.

[jbrasile]

Casey, the door strap comes as a complete assembly, the cast frame (broken in your case)  and blades, once you remove yours you will see what I mean.

And yes, you need a new regulator, this price is just for the regulator, motor not included.

Tks,

Joe

[Casey]

Casey, the door strap comes as a complete assembly, the cast frame (broken in your case)  and blades, once you remove yours you will see what I mean.

And yes, you need a new regulator, this price is just for the regulator, motor not included.

Ahh I gotcha.  Darn...

While you're at it - would you mind specing out what it would take to convert all 4 doors to manual windows?  I like power windows but am not so sure at this point whether they're worth the hassle.

[koan]

What's the bit in the bottom right of the picture?

Found same thing loose in both my front doors.

koan

[Casey]

What's the bit in the bottom right of the picture?

Found same thing loose in both my front doors.

I'd really like to know too!  In my passenger door that piece was broken into two pieces (the earlier pictures in this thread).  I don't think it's related to my passenger window breaking, because the pieces seemed pretty wedged into the bottom of the door, as though they'd been there a long time.  And my passenger door's "stay-open" function works fine.

[vlv8vic]

What's the bit in the bottom right of the picture?

Found same thing loose in both my front doors.

koan

I'm still fairly sure it's something to do with the 'stay open' function of the door.  I suspect that if your doors still have this functionality then perhaps they've been replaced and the remnants left in the door.  I was 100% sure about this before.... now down around 85% since Casey's door still 'clicks' or whatever and presumedly yours do also.

[TJ 450]

The parts in the bottom picture (all of them) are from a disintegrated check strap as Japes has said.

It is also possible for a broken check strap to foul the window movement if it hasn't been attended to already.

Tim

[vlv8vic]

Just found a pic of the check strap and I guess it has two positions, the two little cast bridges.  If it's still working i take it one is ok and one is kaput.  Making me want to get in there and fix mine now!

[Casey]

Just found a pic of the check strap and I guess it has two positions, the two little cast bridges.  If it's still working i take it one is ok and one is kaput.  Making me want to get in there and fix mine now!

Thanks Japes - a picture is worth a thousand words - I see exactly what's going on now.

I've gotta try to find a W116 in a local junkyard...gonna look around this weekend.

[koan]

Where is the part in question?

The shape of the part I mentioned does seem to fit in the bottom of the door, between the skin and frame, I wondered if it was some sort of sound/vibration reducing deadener.

koan

[vlv8vic]

Where is the part in question?

The shape of the part I mentioned does seem to fit in the bottom of the door, between the skin and frame, I wondered if it was some sort of sound/vibration reducing deadener.

koan

Perhaps we're talking about different parts.  The cast bits Casey was trying to identify, are the two cast bridges which would be at the back of the part in the pic i scoped from google image. i guess they either pop out completely or snap in half (I've seen both versions of breakage in the bottom of the door. I couldn't find a bigger or better image but i think it explains why the door might sill lock in place even after broken bits have been located.

[Squiggle Dog]

Just so you know, all 4 doors use the same check strap. Ones from rear doors in a wrecking yard should have little wear and just need lubrication. I believe only ones from a W116 sedan will work.