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Hey all, new here, Windshield leaking (I think)

Started by ColMustard, 06 May 2011, 10:15 PM

jbrasile

ColMustard,

They don't know what they are doing... this is the worst window seal installation I have ever seen!

Sorry to say this my friend but I'd walk away from those guys before they destroy the seal or worse, break the glass.

The seal MUST touch the body all the way around. Yes, they have to use some sealant but not the amount I see in the pictures.

And yes, the molding goes in its channel on the seal before they push the whole assembly into place. It is VERY hard to get this right and whoever does it must be familiar with the procedure.

You are in Renton right?

The Technical Advisor for the MBCNA Seattle Section is Jonh De Young. I have sent him an e-mail with a copy to you asking if he knows a good glass or restoration shop that can properly install the seal for you.

It looks like a couple of dealers in the area may also have techs versed in the classics:


1100 Iowa Street

P.O. Box 1196

Bellingham, WA 98228

800.634.1395

360.676.0600

Fax: 360.733.5744

wilson.mercedesdealer.com

xx% Discount on Service

xx% Discount on Parts


General Sales Manager: Julian E Greening

juliang@wilsonmotors.com


Service Manager: Brad Springer

brads@wilsonmotors.com


Club Friend: Alan Taylor (Sales)

alant@wilsonmotors.com


ercedes-Benz of Lynnwood

17800 Highway 99 Lynnwood, WA 98036

P.O. Box 5888, Lynnwood, WA 98046

Sales: 866.856.5629

Service: 866.856.9629

Fax: 425.673.5959

Lynnwood.mercedesdealer.com


General Sales Manager: Terry Haigh

terryhaigh@mblynnwood.com


Service Manager: Gary Lang

garylang@mblynnwood.com

xx% Discount on Service

xx% Discount on Parts

Give them a call and ask if they do any glass installation on older cars, if they say yes I'd give it a try.

Tks,

Joe




jbrasile

ColMustard,

Sent you an e-mail with some info from the MBCNA's Seattle chapter Technical Advisor.

Hope info helps!!!

Tks

Joe

ColMustard

Thank you Joe!! Yeah those guys told me to come back on Monday. I wont be going back there to say the least.
Yeah, dont think they used sealant at all on the sides. What you see there is what was there before I think.
I have yet to call the other places. Money is a little tight this month, will look into it on the 1st.
Thanks again for all the help Joe.
-Morgan

jsilvidi

I just had my rear windshield seal replaced last week and paid $150. I was told it would take two hours and it actually took about three and half hours. The guy who did my windshield was an older guy who supposedly has been doing this type of work the last 25 years. I plan on going back to get the front windshield seal replaced soon. Does anyone know a good site to get an oem seal? I used Autohausaz for the rear but they do not carry the front seal.

jbrasile

jsildivi,

We supplied an original MB seal to ColMustard and will ship one to  Raptelan soon.

P/n 116 671 01 20 - $153.00 (170.00 list)

Ours come directly from the Mercedes-Benz Classic Center in Irvine California and we can drop ship to you. There is no available stock at this time and Raptelan's seal is on back order.

I strongly recommend that you purchase an original one but if you are looking for stk we can offer the seal made by APA/URO for $125.00 + shipping.

If you are interested pls send an e-mail to: joe@mbklassik.net or info@mbclassic.net

Tks,

Joe

Squiggle Dog

That looks like the way Safelite installed the one in a 1979 300SD I used to own. I went back about 5 times and finally bought a tube of 3M Bedding Compound and sealed it myself. This was after having an unsuccessful install from another glass company.

My 1980 300SD leaks around the front windshield because the seal doesn't seat against the body and it's dried out. The rear windshield also leaks even though it's a fairly new seal. It doesn't set flush against the body, either. I finally found out why; there are chunks of the old seal underneath the new seal!

Most of these glass companies have no idea how to do a good installation on these! They don't even take the time to get rid of the old sealant and chunks of old seal. When the lip is totally clean I believe no sealant is necessary.
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1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Heated Seats, 350,000+

Casey

Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 01 July 2011, 06:31 PM
Most of these glass companies have no idea how to do a good installation on these! They don't even take the time to get rid of the old sealant and chunks of old seal. When the lip is totally clean I believe no sealant is necessary.

These sorts of stories make me really want to try replacing the thing myself instead of paying some company.  I would at least like to have them remove the glass, then let me have a go thoroughly cleaning it, then they could put the new glass in.  Not sure if they'd go for that.  Do you think it's a feasible job to take on yourself??  I've got no idea how this is done...

Casey

Quote from: jbrasile on 27 June 2011, 10:26 PM
And yes, the molding goes in its channel on the seal before they push the whole assembly into place. It is VERY hard to get this right and whoever does it must be familiar with the procedure.

Joe,

Do you know of any known-good places on the east coast?  I would be more than happy to drive a while to get to somewhere that's going to do it correctly and well, than have some horrible experience like this...whenever I actually end up getting a seal, that is.

jbrasile

Casey,

It is no rocket science really....the main concern is how to apply the correct amount of sealant to the body and seal  and make sure the glass goes in nice and square. Because you insert the chrome molding into the seal, it tends to try and jump out when you start to push the windshield onto the body, it is a pretty tricky job that needs to be tackled by two people.

You need a waxed rope that goes inserted into the seal, and you position the whole assembly so the outer portion of the seal is outside the opening. Then one person pushes the window form outside while the other pulls the rope inside the car to bring the inner lip of the seal over the opening. Sounds a lot easier than it is because once the process starts the bloody molding will want to jump out. For some reason the passenger side is always tougher than the driver's.

To remove the old seal it should be cut at several places to take the pressure off and minimize the risk of braking the glass. Ideally you would have a professional remove the old one, you clean the whole thing yourself and then just have them do the installation. When I had the 1980 450SEL done several years ago, they came to my office and did the whole thing in about 2-3 hours. If you hire the correct people they should be able to do everything.

You should remove the internal  front roof panels as well as the A-pillar covers in order to avoid damaging them during the removal/installation.

Tks,

Joe


jbrasile

Casey,

I don't really know anyone but it might be a good idea to ask the dealer who has been doing work in your car if they recommend a shop or even if they do it in house! If they have old timers in their staff and do body work and paint themselves you may get lucky.

I will contact the MBCNA local chapter in Maryland to see if they can help too.

Tks,

Joe

Casey

Quote from: jbrasile on 02 July 2011, 10:57 PM
I don't really know anyone but it might be a good idea to ask the dealer who has been doing work in your car if they recommend a shop or even if they do it in house! If they have old timers in their staff and do body work and paint themselves you may get lucky.

They told me they use a company called Banner Glass to do this sort of work - they don't do it in house.

jbrasile

Not a bad idea to call them and ask, they have been around a long time according to the website so maybe they have done 116's in the past. I'd go with them rather than some of these newer outfits such as Safelite, etc...


Tks,

Joe