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#1
Mechanicals / Re: Source for rebuilding ACC ...
Last post by daantjie - 25 July 2024, 11:14 PMThere's a guy on ebay selling the aluminum bodied ones. He might do a core exchange. I bought mine off him and he actually helped me with some tech support over the phone as I recall. I think he sells under "MBDiesel1".
#2
Mechanicals / Source for rebuilding ACC cont...
Last post by Rolo - 25 July 2024, 01:32 PMHi all, sorry to start yet another thread about the failings of the Unwired Tools replacement ACC controller.
I've tried several fixes and tests on the UWT unit. The support department won't respond to me any furhter. I have determined that the unit does not work as advertised: functions the same as the facotry unit. Far from it. The center vents only open if outside temp is way above the control wheel set temperature and Bi Level doesn't work at all. There are other minor and major differences, but the bottom line is that the UWT requires manual control to make it acceptable. A lot of rolling of the control wheel all the time. In defense of UWT, their engineer has determined that some functions such as not starting the unit in heat mode until the coolant is warm and Bi Level are not needed.
So it needs to come out.
I have the aluminum bodied ACC controller and it needs to be rebuilt. Anyone have a good, reliable source for rebuilding my aluminum ACC controller?
Thanks
I've tried several fixes and tests on the UWT unit. The support department won't respond to me any furhter. I have determined that the unit does not work as advertised: functions the same as the facotry unit. Far from it. The center vents only open if outside temp is way above the control wheel set temperature and Bi Level doesn't work at all. There are other minor and major differences, but the bottom line is that the UWT requires manual control to make it acceptable. A lot of rolling of the control wheel all the time. In defense of UWT, their engineer has determined that some functions such as not starting the unit in heat mode until the coolant is warm and Bi Level are not needed.
So it needs to come out.
I have the aluminum bodied ACC controller and it needs to be rebuilt. Anyone have a good, reliable source for rebuilding my aluminum ACC controller?
Thanks
#3
Mechanicals / Re: Rough running 300sd
Last post by spyboing - 25 July 2024, 02:00 AMEven though you've replaced one bad glow plug, it's worth checking all of them again. A single malfunctioning glow plug can cause rough starts and poor running until the engine warms up. Verify that all glow plugs are working properly and that the glow plug relay is functioning correctly.
dinosaur game
dinosaur game
#4
Mechanicals / Re: Fuse Box removal / Fuse bo...
Last post by Alex - 23 July 2024, 08:26 PMQuote from: Nabstud on 17 July 2024, 03:29 AMWell done! Must have tested the patience hahaOh mate tell me bout it. Was a struggle. But worthwhile in the end.
#5
Mechanicals / Re: Rough running 300sd
Last post by amilio - 17 July 2024, 06:18 PMThe videos introducing the subject are free on YouTube, in depth guides as PDF's or videos are $5-20. Great source of parts, as well as PelicanParts. Highly recommended cross shopping.
I'm personally doubtful it's a compression issue, especially given your cap dance is good. I know you said the fuel system is clean, but did you replace the fuel filters or know how long they've been on the car for?
I'm personally doubtful it's a compression issue, especially given your cap dance is good. I know you said the fuel system is clean, but did you replace the fuel filters or know how long they've been on the car for?
#6
Mechanicals / Re: Fuse Box removal / Fuse bo...
Last post by Nabstud - 17 July 2024, 03:29 AMWell done! Must have tested the patience haha
#7
Mechanicals / Re: Fuse Box removal / Fuse bo...
Last post by Alex - 16 July 2024, 08:42 AMFixed!
Oh dear, this was quite the job. A solid 2-3 days haha.
My disassembly effort was hindered by the slow removal of the centre console, this was due to me not removing the passenger seat, which I do not recommend. (my carport is too narrow to open both doors comfortably). This made the removal of the centre console really fucking annoying. Do not do this!
Regardless, I removed the majority of the interior, seat, wheel, floor mats, covers, kick panel, accelerator, and the fuse box
.
Here's the hole after some cleaning, it did prove to be larger than expected.
https://imgur.com/1lMGfDi
The floor pan was subsequently wet for a few years, and this rust shows that haha. (I grinded a small segment)
https://imgur.com/napgW9M
Grinded the floor pan, sprayed the pan, cleaned and all nice, then resprayed with rust converter primer stuff.
https://imgur.com/9QWZOHp
I sealed the hole with some fibreglass and sprayed over it. I then drilled a new drain hole.
https://imgur.com/6hDw6MD
To get to this stage, the main hindrance was the annoying location of the fusebox and the hole. To remove the fusebox, fuck me- remove everything basically, you can get away with keeping it all attached, just removing the crossmember between the box and the dash is a real pain in the tits.
Grinding the rust off in this tight area was done with a 300mm drill bit extender, and a drill, with a tiny wire wheel on the end. Does this work? Of course! Is it easy? Hell no!
The floorpan was all angle grinded, that was easy.
To fibreglass, I was lazy and kept the majority of the cables in the way, simply tying them off and working around them. Is it easy to do? No. But it is possible and saved a lot of further disassembly.
Fibreglass is best recommended for a decently large hole, but it is godly difficult to use in such a small space, bondo or bog could be used for smaller holes, but I can't attest to the structural rigidity of that.
Sand that fibreglass down, spray and you are all good and off to the races. Just don't forget a tiny hole for water egress! I found this hole hard to drill from the top down, so I drilled from the wheel well up (you can see where the firewall meets the inner fender easily from beneath.
Reattach the lot, ensuring not to forget the fusebox grommet! And you should be good!
I had to rebuild my floor insulation, because it was solemnly buggered.
https://imgur.com/8fxNNXo
I chose to rebuild, as being in Aus, parts are hard to get, let alone a replacement may also be in shoddy condition due to age. I also just don't really care that much, as you can't see the insulation.
I looked for generic insulation foam in multiple hardware stores, but couldn't find anything suitable. So- floor mats!
https://imgur.com/y767qj0
This stuff is great, piss easy to cut with a stanley knife, and cheap as dirt.
Roughly marked that up, glued to layers together for thickness (in hindsight its a bit too thick and raised the carpet up a few mm making it harder to get my feet into the pedals, not a huge deal- but I think for future followers, its best to be too thin than too thick).
And eyeballing the measurements for the handbrake cable and vent, that's my fitment. Looks pretty good in my opinion. And it is already waterproof due to the plastic nature, nice and soft, insulating, and dirt cheap!
All in all, real pain in the ass. The skills needed aren't anything crazy, I'm no bodywork wizz, but it is a lot of time to do the job. (Depending on the size of the rust damage).
Cheers gents.
P.S. Is the fusebox leak a kind of inauguration into the w116 club?
Oh dear, this was quite the job. A solid 2-3 days haha.
My disassembly effort was hindered by the slow removal of the centre console, this was due to me not removing the passenger seat, which I do not recommend. (my carport is too narrow to open both doors comfortably). This made the removal of the centre console really fucking annoying. Do not do this!
Regardless, I removed the majority of the interior, seat, wheel, floor mats, covers, kick panel, accelerator, and the fuse box
.Here's the hole after some cleaning, it did prove to be larger than expected.
https://imgur.com/1lMGfDi
The floor pan was subsequently wet for a few years, and this rust shows that haha. (I grinded a small segment)
https://imgur.com/napgW9M
Grinded the floor pan, sprayed the pan, cleaned and all nice, then resprayed with rust converter primer stuff.
https://imgur.com/9QWZOHp
I sealed the hole with some fibreglass and sprayed over it. I then drilled a new drain hole.
https://imgur.com/6hDw6MD
To get to this stage, the main hindrance was the annoying location of the fusebox and the hole. To remove the fusebox, fuck me- remove everything basically, you can get away with keeping it all attached, just removing the crossmember between the box and the dash is a real pain in the tits.
Grinding the rust off in this tight area was done with a 300mm drill bit extender, and a drill, with a tiny wire wheel on the end. Does this work? Of course! Is it easy? Hell no!
The floorpan was all angle grinded, that was easy.
To fibreglass, I was lazy and kept the majority of the cables in the way, simply tying them off and working around them. Is it easy to do? No. But it is possible and saved a lot of further disassembly.
Fibreglass is best recommended for a decently large hole, but it is godly difficult to use in such a small space, bondo or bog could be used for smaller holes, but I can't attest to the structural rigidity of that.
Sand that fibreglass down, spray and you are all good and off to the races. Just don't forget a tiny hole for water egress! I found this hole hard to drill from the top down, so I drilled from the wheel well up (you can see where the firewall meets the inner fender easily from beneath.
Reattach the lot, ensuring not to forget the fusebox grommet! And you should be good!
I had to rebuild my floor insulation, because it was solemnly buggered.
https://imgur.com/8fxNNXo
I chose to rebuild, as being in Aus, parts are hard to get, let alone a replacement may also be in shoddy condition due to age. I also just don't really care that much, as you can't see the insulation.
I looked for generic insulation foam in multiple hardware stores, but couldn't find anything suitable. So- floor mats!
https://imgur.com/y767qj0
This stuff is great, piss easy to cut with a stanley knife, and cheap as dirt.
Roughly marked that up, glued to layers together for thickness (in hindsight its a bit too thick and raised the carpet up a few mm making it harder to get my feet into the pedals, not a huge deal- but I think for future followers, its best to be too thin than too thick).
And eyeballing the measurements for the handbrake cable and vent, that's my fitment. Looks pretty good in my opinion. And it is already waterproof due to the plastic nature, nice and soft, insulating, and dirt cheap!
All in all, real pain in the ass. The skills needed aren't anything crazy, I'm no bodywork wizz, but it is a lot of time to do the job. (Depending on the size of the rust damage).
Cheers gents.
P.S. Is the fusebox leak a kind of inauguration into the w116 club?
#8
Auto Torque / Re: What other Benz as daily?
Last post by Pete49 - 15 July 2024, 10:56 PMMy DD is a W163. I love my 4WD's so it was a no brainer for me. The comfort of a Benz was also a plus. My W116 450SEL is now my casual drive.
#9
Auto Torque / Re: What other Benz as daily?
Last post by daantjie - 15 July 2024, 11:59 AMI'm looking more into the W210 E55. But then again talking about a 25 year old car so I can see parts going NLA for that model pretty soon if not already. The look has grown on me over the years and the drivetrain is pretty bulletproof. Every single post I read though mentions rust, and that makes me want to rather set my balls on fire 
#10
Mechanicals / Re: Rough running 300sd
Last post by Oliver - 15 July 2024, 07:22 AMThanks both of you for the suggestions, they are much appreciated. I haven't had much time outside of work to get a compression test done but that's still on my to-do list. I have watched lots of the Mercedes Source videos but I'll be sure to look for those ones in particular. Are they free on YouTube or will I have to pay?