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#1
Mechanicals / Re: Vacuum locking system
Last post by raueda1 - Today at 08:07 AM
Quote from: ptashek on Yesterday at 03:06 PMInvest some time into identifying, and getting rid of leaks.

Replace all lock actuator diaphragms on principle. Same with rubber tubing connectors. Make sure all check valves are in working order. Replace rear and front vacuum reservoir grommets where the hard line enters the reservoir. Replace vacuum valves in heating system, or at least check for leaks. Check the master lock valve, it's a common source of leaks.

Do one thing at a time, then vacuum test the whole system. If it still leaks, move to the next item on the list. Once leak free, the system works perfectly fine.
^^^^THIS.  And to elaborate a little, it's a good practice to use a little silicone grease on the rubber fittings.  It makes tubing easier to install and contributes to an even better seal IMO. The check valves are cheap and readily available.  And pay special attention to the master lock valve.  Mine failed and the brand new replacement turned out to be not good.  ???!!!???  The supplier sent a replacement and all was fine.  However, the positioning/alignment with the locking lever is critical. Even a tiny bit off and it will appear to leak even if valve is good.  A secondary benefit is that you can clean and lube window mechanism while door is open, though you probably did that during your frame-off. 

And I agree with Daniel FWIW, keep it stock.  Installing electric would end up being a bigger job than just fixing it. And please post some pix of your project!  Everybody here loves that kind of thing.  Cheers,
#2
Mechanicals / Re: Heater always on
Last post by daantjie - Yesterday at 08:46 PM
Quote from: 79W116 on Yesterday at 08:27 PM
Quote from: Rolo on 19 April 2024, 04:39 PMI experienced the same with ACC.  Replaced with UWT electronic controller.  A big mistake.  Rebuild the existing unit.

What is a UWT please?
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#3
Mechanicals / Re: Heater always on
Last post by 79W116 - Yesterday at 08:27 PM
Quote from: Rolo on 19 April 2024, 04:39 PMI experienced the same with ACC.  Replaced with UWT electronic controller.  A big mistake.  Rebuild the existing unit.

What is a UWT please?
#4
Mechanicals / Re: Vacuum locking system
Last post by daantjie - Yesterday at 03:11 PM
Indeed yes converting the system to electric would be a mistake in my opinion. It is part of what makes a 116 a 116 and once sorted the system actually works very well.
#5
Mechanicals / Re: Vacuum locking system
Last post by ptashek - Yesterday at 03:06 PM
Invest some time into identifying, and getting rid of leaks.

Replace all lock actuator diaphragms on principle. Same with rubber tubing connectors. Make sure all check valves are in working order. Replace rear and front vacuum reservoir grommets where the hard line enters the reservoir. Replace vacuum valves in heating system, or at least check for leaks. Check the master lock valve, it's a common source of leaks.

Do one thing at a time, then vacuum test the whole system. If it still leaks, move to the next item on the list. Once leak free, the system works perfectly fine.
#6
Mechanicals / Vacuum locking system
Last post by Chigham - Yesterday at 12:32 PM
So I'm new this this forum .  I own a
1979 6.9 450 SEL that I did a frame off
The only thing not working properly on
Vehicle is the vacuum locking system

I've been told that it better to convert to
Electrical system .  Less problems vs the
Vacuum locking system .

Does anyone have any thoughts or expertise
In this matter ?  Much appreciated
#7
Mechanicals / Re: Staying On Topic
Last post by Chigham - Yesterday at 12:29 PM
Quote from: admin on 19 October 2011, 12:24 AMPlease keep all discussions on topic and respect the discussion instigated by the original poster.

There is no additional charge for starting new topics!

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#8
Mechanicals / Re: Some technical questions a...
Last post by Chigham - Yesterday at 12:28 PM
Quote from: Gpapaniko on 13 September 2023, 07:21 AMI'd check out Kent Burgsma on Mercedessource on YouTube for tips on the vacuum leaks.  My central locking lasts for about 20mins so enough time to lock the car but not enough to reopen her for all the passengers.  Ive done some chasing of the lines for obvious leaks without luck.  The vacuum tank is under the rear parcel shelf.  If you are getting 2 hours, its actually pretty good.  My tensioner also looks bent but otherwise no squeals.  I do have a noisy ac clutch and the system runs quieter with the ac on
#9
Mechanicals / Re: A/C compressor confusion? ...
Last post by 79W116 - 19 April 2024, 08:49 PM
Thank you all for your replies.

So I ran the DEF and the compressor doesn't come on with that either.

I did press the low side shrader valve and it sounded like a car tire. So there is certainly some pressure.

My next step seems to be to find what opens the flap to mix heat and cool. It's stuck on heat only. Even with out the compressor i used to get fresh cool air, but now just solid heat, ans i dont see the hamilton servo moving.I don't hear any vacuum leaks, and when I leave the car for half a day the door locks are still strong, so I dont think that's it.
#10
Mechanicals / Re: Heater always on
Last post by Rolo - 19 April 2024, 04:39 PM
I experienced the same with ACC.  Replaced with UWT electronic controller.  A big mistake.  Rebuild the existing unit.