Tips on buying 1980 or 77? 450SEL

[Diesel 617]

After buying three 300SD, I'm fairly well versed in what to look for except for the engines. I am primarily interested in the body of the car; driver side looks to be rust free. Paint also look good from the pictures (no clear coat peeling) and has a nice mirror reflection. Owner says the car starts and runs fine @ 140k miles. I'll have to see what paperwork the car comes with. It does have back seat headrest. and Crack free dash. Front windows need some work, wont go down. Hood lines up with fenders and trunk lines up. Original (working) radio, and either tobacco or mahogany interior color. Owner described it as louis vuitton chocolate

Being an 80' (ad claims 1980) or 77 (license plate says 77) it should have the k-jet. I know only what I've read on this forums about the differences between the two. What should I be looking for in regards to this engine?

[karmann_20v]

Cold start, as well as hot start (shut off the car at operating temp and wait for at least 5 minutes). Listen for any timing chain rattles, especially when it is started after sitting for a while. Check for the obvious: leaks, smoke, stumbles, oil level and pressure during test drive, coolant level and temps, power delivery/driveability - the car should have adequate power at low/midrange rpm levels. Also check the oil for obvious gasoline smell, that will indicate a rich running engine. Note that the 450 has a 3 spd auto, so it has not lost 4th.

I am sure others will chime in with more things to look for.

Most of the parts related to fuel injection and ignition are still available new, those that are not can be rebuilt. If the car overall is healthy and the price is right, you have very little to worry about. One thing that is a big plus for all of us 450 (non 6.9) owners is that these engines equipped the 450SL which is a popular model and parts are plentiful.

Good luck!

[UTn_boy]

Mahogany was discontinued in 1976.  So it should be Brazil or Bamboo interior. 

Also, lift up the insulation mats under the front carpets to look for rust, and peel back the firewall pad in the engine bay at the far ends to look for rust holes. especially around the fuse box. 

[Diesel 617]

Thank you both for the replies, the part about the engines being used across chassis is great to know. Also almost forgot about checking the firewall area. Assuming all is well, with the above and nothing major.

What is a fair asking range for these cars now a days with 140k miles?

[UTn_boy]

Well, in the U.S., the answer is very subjective.  What people ask for them and what they actually sell for is night and day.  People ask 5-10k for them, but the reality is that average condition solid examples usually sell for 1-3k, and that depends on the area the car is in.  Obviously, there are ones that sell for unusually high amounts, but those instances are few an far in between, and really nice ones with low mileage will always be worth more. 

[floyd111]

My advice would be to pick the car that has the best possible metal and interior condition. Those are pretty tangible things one can actually check. Considering the substantial costs of body work, it is a good investment to buy a little paint/metal thickness scanner. Handheld, easy and cheap, it will tell you about paint thickness, plaster presence and likely metal condition, no matter whether the car looks shiny and new or not.

The mileage is worth something if one wants to invest in an unrestored car for collectors. In all other cases -in my opinion- mileage is but a distraction from reality.
12000KM cars still have 1000 parts that have been sitting for 40 years.  Rubbers, seals, hoses, gaskets, sludge in the engine, internal oxidation of bearings and such, deteriorated plastics and organic materials..

A car that has seen 250.000KM will have seen scores of such parts replaced already. Not a sure thing, but at least as unsure as a 12000km car.
What's left is the price. Get good metal and a good interior, for the best price possible.
At the same time, prepare for repair expenses immediately, or soon. after the buy.

In a perfect world, one could also  try to have a potential car driven to the nearest MB garage for a full report, before deciding on a purchase.

[UTn_boy]

Stan, unlike Europe and many other countries in the world, the U.S. is the worst place in which to take an old Mercedes to a dealership.  There are very few dealerships in the U.S. that employ anyone that knows anything about any Mercedes past a W220 or W140.  In fact, my local dealership turns cars away that are over 10 years old.  Suffice to say, in the U.S. it'll be best to find an independent repair shop to have a pre purchase inspection done at.  One can also hire a knowledgeable independent from another area and have them do the pre-purchase inspection, as well.  It's money well spent, especially if the car turns out to be pig with lip stick on it.