Raptelan's 1980 300SD

[Casey]

My transmission has been getting steadily worse - once it warms up it's okay but when I first start it and try to drive, it's extra "fun".  Slips into gear later and later each day, now I'm needing to hit the gas a little bit to get it to engage at all.  It's extra challenge when parallel parked on a slope, as shifting in to D or R actually just stays in N until I hit the gas.  So, enough is enough.  Made an appointment at MB to have it looked at Thursday.

Also ordered all new rubber seals and gaskets and inside door handles from the Classic Center, so I'll be at it for a while getting all that installed and she'll be happy for it!

Also planning to send off my speedometer for a 120mph faceplate replacement/recalibration and odometer repair after the work at MB is done.

Also, went by Sears and picked up a nice vacuum tester tool, some shallow 6-point sockets, hex bit sockets, and the most amazing ratchets I have ever seen in my life (84 teeth, sealed heads, *heavy*) - got 3/8" and 1/4" drive ratchets.  No more tearing up bolts and sanity with crappy tools.

[jbrasile]

Casey,

Let us know what the dealer says regarding the tranny.

I am ordering all the body seals from the Classic Center tomorrow, thanks again for the order and will keep you posted regarding shipping details.

Tks,

Joe

[calvin streeting]

My transmission has been getting steadily worse - once it warms up it's okay but when I first start it and try to drive, it's extra "fun".  Slips into gear later and later each day, now I'm needing to hit the gas a little bit to get it to engage at all.  It's extra challenge when parallel parked on a slope, as shifting in to D or R actually just stays in N until I hit the gas.  So, enough is enough.  Made an appointment at MB to have it looked at Thursday.

when was the fluid changed last as old fluid is less tolarant to cold engines and weather.

[Casey]

My transmission has been getting steadily worse - once it warms up it's okay but when I first start it and try to drive, it's extra "fun".  Slips into gear later and later each day, now I'm needing to hit the gas a little bit to get it to engage at all.  It's extra challenge when parallel parked on a slope, as shifting in to D or R actually just stays in N until I hit the gas.  So, enough is enough.  Made an appointment at MB to have it looked at Thursday.

when was the fluid changed last as old fluid is less tolarant to cold engines and weather.

No idea.  I'm getting the fluid flushed, the filter changed out, and the bushing for the shifter replaced (it's not tight either) at a minimum.  The weather has only gotten warmer since I bought the car though, and it's generally 80-something out after work when the car's been sitting all day and has problems getting into gear right away.  It was pretty much fine a month ago.

[1980sdga]

I like Craftsman ratchets as well. Good stuff. 

I have a set of these: http://www.gearwrench.com/catalog/wrenches/ratcheting/flex_combination/  which are REALLY handy on some of the tight quarters in our cars!

Hopefully your transmission problem is just an adjustment out or something.

[Casey]

Let us know what the dealer says regarding the tranny.

Nothing was wrong with it - it was just the bushings for the shifter throwing everything off.  They did add about a quart of transmission fluid but said that shouldn't have made much difference.  So a $215 bill - mostly labor cost.  Could have prolly done it myself I reckon but I figure I've come out ahead with the free oil change still.  Also got a free courtesy inspection of the vehicle so no complaints about spending the $200.

Recommendations from the inspection:
* Tie rods worn, they'd like $545 for that.
* Steering column shock absorber is shot, they'd like $211.
* Front brake pads worn to 3mm, they'd like $591 (!!!).  Was planning on doing the brakes anyways, but 3mm gives me some time.
* Repack wheel bearings (based on mileage), they'd like $244.
* Hood pad missing, they'd like $450.
* Brake booster cable has shoddy-ass repair, needs replaced, they'd like $176.

I'm pretty sure I can do all this work myself for loads cheaper.  Only thing I'm not really sure about is the repacking of the wheel bearings - I dunno how that works.  I know I had to have it done on one of the wheels on my W124, because it started being really noisy.  Anyways I didn't know about the tie rods or steering column shock absorber, so those are good finds I'm glad they alerted me to.

Shifter is really tight and nice now (just like when I had the same service done on my W124), I'm very happy with it.  And the shifting is now working just as it should.

I'm a bit astonished that it took them two days (necessitating giving me a free rental car) to get the bushings replaced, saying at the end of day one that they were having trouble getting the new ones put on.  I'm wagering they're really not familiar with W116's.

[Squiggle Dog]

Wow, those prices seem exorbitant compared to what it would cost to replace them yourself. Jbrasile could probably get you a genuine Mercedes steering shock absorber for around $60 and it would take you about 10 minutes to install it, saving you approximately $150 on that part alone. He could probably also get you tie rods for less than $200, then you'd just have to pay for an alignment. I've saved thousands in buying OEM parts and then just installing them myself.

Wheel bearings can be tricky as supposedly the grease has to be measured precisely or else they will either wear prematurely or heat up from too much grease. I made an educated guess when I did them on my 200D, but the job itself is simple.

The shift bushings can be difficult to access and take a lot of force to press on, however I was able to replace them in a matter of minutes!

[1980sdga]

 I'm wagering they're really not familiar with W116's.

Shifter bushings are kind of a PITA. I had to rig up a little tool to press mine in with which worked pretty well.

I replaced both tie-rod end assembly's on mine (4 ends, 2 sleeves) for less than $100. Probably the easiest job I've done on this car.  I did get a $30 tool which made it easier but you could probably get by without it.  You'll need an alignment after changing them...

I'd consider the tranny deal good news!

Haven't done wheel bearings on this car yet but I'd round up new seals before starting.  Maybe do tie rods, brakes and bearings at the same time while you have the car up and the wheels off.

[jbrasile]

Hi Casey,

Nice to hear that the transmission  didn't have anything seriously wrong with it.

Interesting prices for the rest of the parts.... I assume those numbers include labor right?

Here is the quote for everyone's reference:

126 330 05 03 - tie rod LH - $55.00 (lemforder OEM) or $63.00 original MB ($70.00 list)
126 330 06 03 - tie rod RH - $70.00(lemforder OEM) or $80.00 original Mb ($89.00 list)
000 463 51 32 - steering shock - $28.00 -  original MB
001 420 99 20 - front brake pads - $56.00 original MB - recommended ($61.00 list)
116 682 00 26 - hood pad - $67.50 - original MB ($75.00 list)

I don't really like to re-pack  front bearings myself so I leave that to my mechanic, but that's just me, you just have to be careful with the amount of grease and the correct tightening of the nut, I have ruined a pair of bearings on my 79 300SD years ago from over tightening  so I decided to no longer tackle the job...

As mentioned before, it is rare to find a dealership with techs that know these older cars so I am not surprised it took them 2 days to do what they did, someone with experience could have done it much quicker but since you even got  free rental it wasn't such a bad deal  after all...

Tks,

Joe

[Casey]

001 420 99 20 - front brake pads - $56.00 original MB - recommended ($61.00 list)

Thanks Joe - you know I'll be coming to you for these parts in time.

I am curious about the brakes though - I've heard some criticism about the 116 having inadequate brakes for the weight of the car, and some people get 126 brakes installed somehow.  Or is there an even better option?  Currently if I hit the brakes hard and/or if it's wet outside, the front driver-side tire will skid, but it seems that's the only one that does.  I feel like I get really good traction with my tires compared to any other car I've owned, possibly due to the heavier weight of the car, but they do squeal pretty easily, so there's probably increased traction I could get from better tires too.

Anyways if I stick with the original brakes, I'll get the original MB pads.  But is it worth investigating changing out the brakes to ones from a 126 or something else?

Also I read that W116's had ABS available from 1978 on.  Was that standard or a special option?  I'm guessing my car does NOT have them...  What would be involved with adding ABS, and do you think it's worth the bother?

[jbrasile]

Casey,

Never really heard anything negative regarding 116 brakes being inadequate, besides the 126 system is not that different. They do have a healthy appetite for front pads as most MB's do, especially if you live in a hilly area. My sister's 84 300CD used to eat through front pads every 10000 miles when she lived in Palos Verdes and had a pretty steep drive down the hill every day.

As for ABS, it was optional on Euro cars starting int 78 but never offered in the States. It is quite rare a not a doable upgrade in my opinion.

116 brakes have great straight line performance and are usually very predictable. You may have an iffy caliper on your left front that is causing it to lock prematurely. Check to see if perhaps you are getting more brake dust on that side, that is usually a sign of a partially seized caliper.

Tks,

Joe

[TJ 450]

There's nothing wrong with the brakes, in fact they are excellent in my opinion.

The brake upgrade is swapping the front big brakes from a 560SEL W126, but you must use 15" or larger wheels. Unless you plan on using the car at very high speeds, or drive through mountain passes all the time, I don't see any real benefit to this upgrade.

I swapped early W126 brakes onto my 6.9 and performance wise, I don't think there is any difference. The rotors have a different offset though. I just fitted them as a temporary measure (the parts were available), but decided to leave them on the car.

Tim

[thysonsacclaim]

Good to hear your transmission issue was not serious.

I had an inspection done on my car shortly after buying it solely because I was afraid of transmission issues and don't know much about repairing them. I will have to learn eventually I suspect.

I've thought of bringing my car in to a Merc shop to get checked out further, but the ones around here can be snooty in general, let alone bringing in a project car.

Good hearing your updates and progress.


Cheers,

Adam

[jjb-w116-hu]

where does the steering shock go Joe? my s/wheel has started making an annoying squeaky sound.... as soon as I have my parkelights sortted and my sway bar ends attached i'll be on the hunt for that steering coupling as well as local parts people cant get  a hold of one for two months...

thanks pal! JJB

[Casey]

Also ordered all new rubber seals and gaskets and inside door handles from the Classic Center, so I'll be at it for a while getting all that installed and she'll be happy for it!

Stuff to keep busy with for a while!