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Raptelan's 1980 300SD crashed

Started by 1980sdga, 26 September 2011, 11:12 AM

Squiggle Dog

Aluminum can be welded and the body shop can probably straighten it. I don't know what the cost comparison to repair or replace would be. I'd definitely stick with an aluminum hood on the SD.
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1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Heated Seats, 350,000+

oscar

Hey Raptelan.  Geez I've only just noticed this thread, condolonces to you and the car plus what you've been through since.  I just can't believe the crap one has to go through to square things off re insurance claims.  Anyway, plenty has been said I wont add my thoughts coz I'll just be repeating what others have said, but I will say I'm glad you're ok and things have worked out ok thus far.

I've watched your videos and can't help but share some optimism for the SD.  I suppose the main concern is the chassis rails on the front quarter of course. It's too hard to tell from the videos what is bent in this regard, but I've got fingers crossed that replacement doors will bolt straight on and work flawlessly.

Given that the new tie rod hasn't returned steering and suspension to normal even after adjustment I'm guessing then you're looking at maybe control arms being slightly bent too.  But the lower one's cast iron and I can't help but guess that if it's bent it may have pushed the chassis rail across a little.  As far as the top support for the suspension goes, I'd do a quick measurement from the tip of the left shock absorber to the tip of the right one and compare with the 450's.   You can't hold a tape measure across of course due to engine clearance but if you can make a long "U" shape from some pipe or even some timber you'll be able to gauge whether the top of the suspension has been affected when comparing the distance between these tow points on the SD and the 450.  Hopefully they're exactly the same.  Below is a pic of strengthening bars in blue for a track car.  It kind of illustrates what I mean about making something simple and similarly shaped to measure betweeen the two points on both cars.


Another thing I thing I noticed on your last video was that there must have been some pooling of water behind that quarter panel.  Strange seeing the filler and so forth but looking closely at the image below, traces of a water line is visible on the vacuum reservoir and behind it.  Not sure what's going on there but interesting to note given the repairs done there previously and what might need to be done to avoid something similar if this project goes ahead.


Lastly, a link to some photos to help you, inspire perhaps.  Not sure if you've seen em but they're of my ex track car and I say inspire not because I'm a gifted panel beater and a bit full of myself, far from it.   It's just an example of a first timer at DIY body repairs with welding done with a stick welder as I didn't have oxy acteylene at the time, plus it's to the same front quarter.  Damage was high speed from a kangaroo, so no chassis rail or bumper support damage but there's some good shots of replacing the rad support plus engine bay sheet metal via a donor car.  I found it easier to cut and replace rather than straighten things.  Don't bother reading, there's too much but peruse the photos, they might help. http://forum.w116.org/test-drive/got-a-new-project-pictorial/msg52262/#msg52262
1973 350SE, my first & fave

Casey

Drove the car 30 minutes to the garage I rented today.  Drove beautifully even at 75mph.  Seems the "best guess" alignment job worked out passably.  However I'm pretty sure the passenger tie rod is also bent (we got pushed into a curb on that side) as now my steering wheel is rather off compared to the direction of travel.  That would explain why I had to overcompensate so much on the driver side.  So when I replace the passenger one I should be able to turn the driver one back and get the steering wheel back straight again.

I had a new radiator support frame shipped from Nevada, but found it to be significantly dented upon arrival. :(  Got a fender too but haven't taken it out of the bubble wrap yet.

gf

sorry to see the car a big mess! nice you still got a spare w116 handy.What was it that hurt your ribs? was it the seatbelt?.GOOD YOURE WELL THOUGH!!!!!!!!!!

WiSeGuYY

hey CASEY , So sorry for your 300 SD but thanks god you r OK , i know it has been long time but i didn't log here for a while .

last i as here i remember your 123 black . coupe.

i know you are diesel fan so good luck in your search for new one

regards

TAREK

Casey

Quote from: gf on 01 December 2011, 02:18 AM
sorry to see the car a big mess! nice you still got a spare w116 handy.What was it that hurt your ribs? was it the seatbelt?.GOOD YOURE WELL THOUGH!!!!!!!!!!

No, it was from my elbow.  I don't generally wear seat belts. :P

Casey

Quote from: WiSeGuYY on 01 December 2011, 06:50 PM
last i as here i remember your 123 black . coupe.

Red, actually.

Quote
i know you are diesel fan so good luck in your search for new one

I'm not looking.  I'm buying a 450SEL instead because I really want a long-wheelbase W116.  Maybe I'll turn into a diesel at some point.  But it'll be the sixth Mercedes in the garage, so I don't need any more for a while!!

WiSeGuYY

LOL CASEY  , 6 MERCEDES you can't really complain for a while.

REGARDS

TAREK

gf

 a great way to more than double the crash survival rate of your next mercedes- use its seat belts!!!!!!!

Casey

Quote from: gf on 12 December 2011, 06:28 PM
a great way to more than double the crash survival rate of your next mercedes- use its seat belts!!!!!!!

I'm not worried about my survival, and unfortunately the car won't benefit from the belts! ;)