Hi every one
My name is Thomas and I live around Las Vegas, Nevada.
I am from Germany and live in the US for 15 years.
I registered on 116.org because I just bought a 6.9, or what is left of it.
The car was offered on the local Craigslist and I thought I take a look.
The person that sold it to me stated that it was parked 10 years ago, in running condition.
The last registration sticker reads 4/98, that is more like 14 years ago.
It is not in the best of shapes to say at least. So far I found out:
The engine is stuck, I can't get it to move by turning on the alternator.
The fan clutch itself is stuck, so is the water pump.
There is no water in the cooling system at all.
The starter doesn't engage when I turn the key.
The fuel turned into a brown gue inside the fuel distributor and the fuel return line.
Neat less to say that the piston in the fuel distributor is also stuck.
All the vacuum lines in the engine compartment brake on contact.
The window rubber is hard as a rock and full of cracks.
The interior is a mess, and the paint that is left is peeling off.
I didn't get the car home yet, for lack of a truck and trailer, for closer inspection.
How much rust will I find underneath? What is the condition of the suspension?
So far I prepped up the suspension with wooden blocks for transport on a trailer.
I also removed the fuel distributor and the air flow meter for cleaning.
Just in case. Can I use a 450 fuel distributor on a 6.9?
Next steps:
Fill all the cylinders with oil, let sit for a while and try to turn the engine over on the crankshaft nut.
If successful, fix all the stuff needed to get the engine running.
Unfortunately I don't have much time to work on the car.
This will be a long time project, if it is worth fixing at all.
I will keep you posted, with pics.
Thanks
Tom
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0750.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0750.jpg.html)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0751.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0751.jpg.html)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0693.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0693.jpg.html)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0747.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0747.jpg.html)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0741.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0741.jpg.html)
This is some of the "Old Fuel" that oozed out of the fuel distributor and the return line.
Hi Thomas! You are a brave man, good luck with the project - keep us posted.
Is it a Nevada car all those years? Maybe you will have the good fortune to work with a rust-free car.
Post some more - the interior looks very promising!
Thanks for the reply's.
Is it a Nevada car all those years? Maybe you will have the good fortune to work with a rust-free car.
The car came from southern Utah, same climate as Las Vegas.
I don't know where it actually began it's service live.
Post some more - the interior looks very promising!
Here some more pics of the interior. Not much of it can be reused.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0781.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0781.jpg.html)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0784.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0784.jpg.html)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0789.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0789.jpg.html)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0791.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0791.jpg.html)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0783.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0783.jpg.html)
Today I removed the spark plugs, they don't look bad at all.
I also took out the fan and fan shroud to have access to the crankshaft nut.
Some body put two bolts into the fan clutch, no wonder it's locked up.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0774.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0774.jpg.html)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0775.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0775.jpg.html)
The water pump is still turning. After removing the fan clutch, I was able to get it to rotate freely.
Is the fan clutch the same as a 450?
Or can I just use a 450 clutch?
No rust in the thermostat and upper radiator hose.
This is the top of the cooling system, all the crud will be in the bottom.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0767.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0767.jpg.html)
Here is a pic of the current state of the engine.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0777.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0777.jpg.html)
I still don't have the car at home, but I have access to it any time.
Next I will fill the cylinders with oil, on Monday I will try to turn the engine over by the crankshaft nut.
Wish me luck.
I think I saw that one in the St. George, Utah craigslist a while back. Nice interior color. There was a 450SEL with a nearly mint condition (including front seats) parchment interior at the wrecking yard back in Washington, along with a 280SE with a nice interior of the same color. Too bad the timing wasn't better.
If you are planning on doing every bit of the work yourself, I think you will be well into your next lifetime before you get it done. But doing it yourself is the fun part - it's what holds us together on this forum.
Even though it looks like a ton of work, if you approach it by systems, it goes much better and you don't find yourself going back and redoing things. I started on doors (group 72). Get all the factory manuals.
The biggest thing you have going for you is an intact body without rust. I'd look around up north for a parts car with good mechanics but poor body - very common.
You can email Mercedes (http://www.mbclassiccenter.com/) and get all the info for the VIN, and that will allow you to see if it still has the original engine and transmission.
I agree with what everyone is saying.
I live in the "rust belt", and from time to time 6.9s in excellent running condition with good interiors pop up for only $1500 or $2000 because they have significant rust.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3662/3680101890_831b2a2fa5_z.jpg)
I would think your best bet would be to strip that car to the shell and begin hunting for a rusty donor to create a solid, running car.
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 12 June 2013, 08:36 PM
I think I saw that one in the St. George, Utah craigslist a while back. Nice interior color. There was a 450SEL with a nearly mint condition (including front seats) parchment interior at the wrecking yard back in Washington, along with a 280SE with a nice interior of the same color. Too bad the timing wasn't better.
I found it in the St. George craigslist, it was only listed as a 450SEL in the headline.
How long ago did you see the cars in the yard?
May be worth checking it out.
Quote from: polymathman on 12 June 2013, 09:24 PM
If you are planning on doing every bit of the work yourself, I think you will be well into your next lifetime before you get it done. But doing it yourself is the fun part - it's what holds us together on this forum.
Even though it looks like a ton of work, if you approach it by systems, it goes much better and you don't find yourself going back and redoing things. I started on doors (group 72). Get all the factory manuals.
The biggest thing you have going for you is an intact body without rust. I'd look around up north for a parts car with good mechanics but poor body - very common.
You can email Mercedes (http://www.mbclassiccenter.com/) and get all the info for the VIN, and that will allow you to see if it still has the original engine and transmission.
I can't do every thing my self.
I have two left hands when it comes to body and paint work.
First I have to find out the condition of the engine, if it is seized I have a major problem and I still don't know if the car is rust free.
I also don't know the condition of the trans or the suspension.
Lets take it one step at the time, the engine is first.
Quote from: John Hubertz on 12 June 2013, 10:24 PM
I would think your best bet would be to strip that car to the shell and begin hunting for a rusty donor to create a solid, running car.
I don't know that i will do a full resto on this car.
It depends on the condition of major components like engine, trans and suspension, basically the expansive parts that are unique to the 6.9.
Finding somebody to paint it should not be a problem, and as you say, good interiors are available in the more northern states.
Nice find; particularly if she's largely rust free! It's really not hard to inspect and there's common areas to check that are listed in other threads here.
Personally I'd have the car completely inspected for rust before you start spending money. I'd steam clean the engine and under the car, so you don't get filthy dirty every time you touch the car. Make sure you prevent water getting into parts that must remain dry (ie cover the throttle plate and electricals). I'd suggest you do it after the injection system is refitted so you don't get water into the fuel lines etc.
It'd be rare to find a seized engine or serious mechanical failure, but as you've found the fuel system will be the biggest headache. Make sure it's clean from the tank to the injectors (in that order).
Then I'd then strip the interior of the car of items that are damaged and cannot be repaired. Keep the pads attached to the underside of the carpets as they're apparently NLA and don't come with new carpet. It's likely all the rubber bits will need to be replaced if it's been in the sun so long. Windscreen seals will be cracked and leaking.
Suspension work will include new nitrogen cells x 5, reservoir flush, hydraulic fluid change and a new filter. Inspect the ball joints and make sure the dust boots are in good condition
If you can get the engine running and it appears OK, and the body is fairly straight and rust free, and the car is mostly original, I think it's a good starting point for a project.
I picked mine up in a similar condition, and yes it required lots of work, but it was not that much of a problem overall.
It's going strong now and I happily drive it wherever.
My 6.9 is running a 450 fan clutch, which is different, but works fine.
Tim
Thanks for all your advice.
So far the car looks almost rust free, straight and original.
I have no access to a water hose where she is parked right now, so I can't clean the engine compartment.
Once I get her home, this is the first thing I will do.
Yesterday I put oil in all the cylinders, Monday I will try to turn the engine over.
Keep your fingers crossed.
Good news everyone
I was able to turn the engine over.
Didn't even put up much of a fight.
The oil did its job, or the fact that I used a 1" ratchet direct on the crank shaft in stet of a wrench on the alternator pulley, like on my first try.
I also was able to free up the pistons in the fuel distributor.
After running a fuel / fuel injector cleaner mix through the unit and using liberal amounts of carb cleaner, the main piston freed up.
Only the overpressure / pressure control piston in the side of the unit was hard to remove.
I was able to pull it out after I soaked the distributor in the fuel / fuel injector cleaner mix for a week.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0810.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0810.jpg.html)
I also cleaned up the air flow meter.
Using Acetone for the first stage, carb cleaner for the second and purple power for the last.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0799.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0799.jpg.html)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0806.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0806.jpg.html)
Why does this part remind me of Star Trek?
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0804.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0804.jpg.html)
After the engine turns over, the question is, what to do next?
Some possibilities are:
Remove the valve covers to inspect the cams, rocker arms and chain.
Remove the intake manifold to clean it in and out, replace all vacuum lines and clean the top of the block.
Remove water pump and housing to flush the cooling system.
Or all of the above.
I am looking forward to other suggestions from the more experienced members of this forum.
Each of the choices above brings up an other question:
Where to buy parts for a 6.9 other then the dealer or the classic center?
Thanks
Tom
Quote from: 1960mog on 12 June 2013, 10:43 PM
I found it in the St. George craigslist, it was only listed as a 450SEL in the headline.
How long ago did you see the cars in the yard?
May be worth checking it out.
This was at least a year ago, and I know they are gone now. I would have pulled the entire interiors to resell if boxing and shipping and storage wasn't such a hassle.
Thanks Squiggle dog.
I have to wait for the next one.
Will check the Las Vegas Pick a Part a.s.a.p.
There was a 6.9 in that yard about a year ago.
Wasn't much left of it when I was there and I didn't need any 6.9 parts at the time.
Wow you did a great job cleaning up the air flow assembly! What would I do next? Clean the rest of the fuel system and get her running.... Then you can assess what's the next priority. Maybe even give her a short, carefully drive to help with your inspection. After she's warmed up, I'd look at changing ALL the fluids and filters. Check all the electricals while the engines running and you have full battery voltage.
I wouldn't touch the water pump or inlet manifold unless necessary
Quote from: oversize on 17 June 2013, 07:29 PM
Wow you did a great job cleaning up the air flow assembly! What would I do next? Clean the rest of the fuel system and get her running.... Then you can assess what's the next priority. Maybe even give her a short, carefully drive to help with your inspection. After she's warmed up, I'd look at changing ALL the fluids and filters. Check all the electricals while the engines running and you have full battery voltage.
I wouldn't touch the water pump or inlet manifold unless necessary
That sounds like good advice.
Getting the engine running is my next priority.
I have to feed her from a gas can, since the fuel lines are still plugged up by the" Old Fuel, and who knows what is in the tank.
The injectors are my next problem, i hope I can save them, and there is no way I can check the WUR till the engine is running.
I will change the oil, I am not running that engine with 14 year old oil.
I keep you posted.
Thanks
Compare the cost of getting them ultrasonically cleaned vs new injectors. I'd probably get the WUR internally cleaned and calibrated due to the condition of the old fuel...
Drain the old oil for at least a week and don't forget to pull the drain plug on the side oil tank. I'd then flush the tank with kero (with both sump plugs removed) in a pressure spray gun and drain it for a further week.
Ultrasonic cleaning sounds good, but I don't know anybody who can do this around here.
I can get the injectors clean and I can test them.
My car still has the old steel injectors.
Can I use the newer brass ones for a 6.9, or do I need something special.
Do you know anybody in the US who can calibrate the WUR, or who sells a rebuild kit for it?
The oil is draining right now.
I am thinking to take the oil tank out to clean it.
I removed the oil tank today and it looks like that it got hit in a accident before.
There is a kink on the side facing the right fender.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0831.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0831.jpg.html)
It did not leak any oil, so it should be still useable.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0832.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0832.jpg.html)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0830.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0830.jpg.html)
Hi
I tried to test my injection system last weekend.
Here is a pic of the setup.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0839.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0839.jpg.html)
Most of the injectors have a ok spray pattern, and the cold start valve works fine.
The System pressure is 75 to 76 psi. It should be around 81 psi.
The control pressure starts low, at about 20 psi, then slowly creeps up to 70 psi.
The WUR has a bad diaphragm, and I did not hook up the heater in the unit.
Normally you would test the system on a the running engine, with fuel flowing to the injectors.
There is no fuel accumulator in my setup, just a pump and a filter fed from a gas can.
Is it even possible to get a good reading from a setup like this?
Is it possible to get a repair kit for the WUR?
I scored a timing chain on ebay.
Can someone confirm that a 222 link chain will fit the 6.9 engine.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0836.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0836.jpg.html)
Some more "fuel" oozed out off the fuel line during last weeks 117 Degree F. weekend.
I hope that the entire tank is not filled with this stuff.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0847.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0847.jpg.html)
I am also proud to announce that I installed the first new part on the car, a hood release cable.
Thanks
I wonder if the tank could be pulled back into shape by a panel beater? And whether they could do it without further damage, or it springing a leak....
Great idea bench testing the injection system; where did you learn that? Apparently pressures are critical in getting the engine running as it should.... I'm not sure about repair kits for the WUR but Ken Aires in Melbourne does them and they must get kits from somewhere! I'd say the injectors are universal but I could be wrong; check the EPC.... Looks like you'll have fun cleaning the rest of the fuel system. :o
I haven't done a chain yet so I'd like to know too. Have you looked at the sprockets and guides? How far out was the timing?
In all honesty, I don't think you will ever get that fuel line clean enough to be dependable. There are so many carefully engineered orifices from the output of the fuel pump to where the injector sprays into the engine, that I think that much of your good work will go waste. One new fuel line won't be that much.
Hi
I think I leave the kink in the tank.
It doesn't impair function and a repair attempt could do more damage then good.
The fuel system as you see it in the picture is already cleaned up, it's the part that is left in the car that needs attention.
Pump and filter will be new.
I don't know about the accumulator and damper yet.
The tank will be cleaned and I will install new lines if necessary.
It is maybe a waste of time to do further testing on the injection until I have a working WUR.
How can I get a hold of Ken Aires, a web search came up empty.
I only bought the chain because it was available on ebay.
I didn't open the engine yet to check all the other components.
A chain should be changed at 100000 miles, my car has 128000 miles on the odo, and I don't think that the previous owner took care of it.
Thanks
Looks like they may not be on the web... But:
http://www.startlocal.com.au/auto/mechanics/vic_melbourne/Ken_Airs_Petrol_Injection_Services_1514882.html
https://maps.google.com.au/maps?aq=&q=5+baillie+street+north+melbourne&ie=UTF-8&hl=en
Thanks Oversize
I would flush that line by running the fuel pump with fresh fuel in the tank. You should be able to get it reasonably clean, I would imagine. Make sure you have a strainer at the inlet to the fuel distributor, and I can't imagine it would be much of a problem.
I had similar tar oozing out of the fuel lines and tank on my 560SEL, and although it may cause problems, the strainers will catch most of the rubbish you don't flush out.
Some people would want to be more thorough of course.
Tim
I'd probably replace any flexible fuel hoses and flush out the rest with a solvent
Bad news
Today I removed the seats and the carped.
Here is what I found.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/IMG_0860.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/IMG_0860.jpg.html)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/IMG_0861.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/IMG_0861.jpg.html)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/IMG_0862.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/IMG_0862.jpg.html)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/IMG_0868.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/IMG_0868.jpg.html)
I bought my WUR from http://www.germanstar.net
Welcome to W116 ownership!!!! Very few will be completely rust free and it's a good thing you found it now before it becomes any worse! I'd strip the rest of the interior to check for any more (particularly the sunroof frame and firewall). Fix it all and you'll have a sound car for many years into the future. The key is to keep them out of the elements.... However it seems a little unusual since your car apparently came from a dry climate.
BTW I'd add some squirts of oil into each cylinder, then turn her over by hand. Then crank her over with no plugs to build up oil pressure before trying to start it for the first time. If you aren't already several steps ahead I'd pull the rockers covers and check the timing chain stretch. Then you can refill with new oil, using about 5L poured over the cam lobes, journals and the chain/sprockets. I wouldn't use much more as it may not all return to the tank and you don't wanna crank with 12L all in the sump.
I believe that rainwater entered through the cracks in the window seals and was retained by the foam insulation of the floor over the last 14 years.
The sun roof frame has a lot of rust and I also found some rust on the fire wall, when I changed the hood release cable.
The car has option code 494, it should be a California model and the climate in Utah, where I found it, is even dryer.
I already put oil in the cylinders and I will change the timing chain. This car has 128000 miles on the clock and I don't think the chain was ever changed.
The condition of the chain rails concerns me more.
Did Mercedes already use the hard plastic rails in 1978?
Or do I still have the aluminum rails.
Lots of people blame the windscreen seals and I'm sure it's part of the problem but more likely it's the sunroof, plenum and firewall that are the main cause of the water leaks.
I'm not sure about the rails.
Do you have more pics??
You probably right about the sun roof.
What is the plenum?
The air inlet below the wind shield?
Here some more pics of the rust after I removed more of the interior and vacuumed it out.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0883-1.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0883-1.jpg.html)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0889.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0889.jpg.html)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0885.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0885.jpg.html)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0888.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0888.jpg.html)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0891.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0891.jpg.html)
Only after sand blasting will I be able to tell how much of the sheet metal can be reused.
On the bright side.
I cleaned and pained the oil tank.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0859.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0859.jpg.html)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0858.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0858.jpg.html)
It did rain today and I was able to confirm that the window seals are leaking.
A pic that shows the condition of the window seal.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0901.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0901.jpg.html)
Water drops are hanging on the inside from the window seal.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0905.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0905.jpg.html)
I can't tell that the seal is the only source of this puddle.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0898.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0898.jpg.html)
The same happens to the rear.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0902.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0902.jpg.html)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0899.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0899.jpg.html)
So far I didn't find any wet spot around the sun roof.
OMG, I've never seen rubber in such an awful state. For all the advantages of dry climates, the damage done to paint and perishable components is astounding. Comparatively, rubber lasts a long time in damp climates like the UK and so does the paint as long as you keep the car clean.
Quote from: adamb on 12 July 2013, 03:53 AM
OMG, I've never seen rubber in such an awful state. For all the advantages of dry climates, the damage done to paint and perishable components is astounding. Comparatively, rubber lasts a long time in damp climates like the UK and so does the paint as long as you keep the car clean.
That is the tradeoff for rust free sheet metal.
It is unfortunate that my car has so much rust.
It's not uncommon to find Mercedes of this age, or older, here in the American south west that are rust free.
This is what makes cars from this region so tempting for European buyers.
About once a year I send a 114/115 model to a friend in Germany.
All he asks for is a rust free and accident free body.
Technical condition and the condition of the paint, chrome and interior does not matter.
It's cheaper for him to pay for shipping, duty and tariffs, then to do the rust repair on a German body.
Even if he is very good in his craft, he still ends up with a 'repaired' body, instead of a original, untouched one.
Looks like there was once a swimming pool in the spare tire well.
The drain hole is still open, maybe it was blocked by the spare tire.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0907.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0907.jpg.html)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0908.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0908.jpg.html)
The left side of the trunk looks good, only the right has a rust hole and some bondo on the out side.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0909.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0909.jpg.html)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0911.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0911.jpg.html)
My engine already has the hard plastic chain rails, but they are not broken yet.
I am surprised by the good condition of the cams and how clean the engine is inside.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0912.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0912.jpg.html)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0913.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0913.jpg.html)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0914.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0914.jpg.html)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0915.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0915.jpg.html)
Nice job on the tank! Yes your engine is very clean inside, which is encouraging. I wonder if all replacement chain guides are now plastic?
Interesting that your US floors are quite a bit different to ours, obviously to incorporate the exhaust cats. But what are the raised ridges in the middle of the front floors??
Personally I'd rather no rust than pristine rubbers, but it can all be fixed if you're determined enough
Quote from: oversize on 12 July 2013, 07:15 PM
Nice job on the tank! Yes your engine is very clean inside, which is encouraging. I wonder if all replacement chain guides are now plastic?
Interesting that your US floors are quite a bit different to ours, obviously to incorporate the exhaust cats. But what are the raised ridges in the middle of the front floors??
Personally I'd rather no rust than pristine rubbers, but it can all be fixed if you're determined enough
I hope that this type of floor is not unique to the 6.9 and that I can get replacement parts.
I am not a friend either of rust either, but I have to buy what I can get, for the money I can spend.
Here is a pic of the rubber seal inside the WUR, or what is left of it.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0920.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0920.jpg.html)
Here it is with three millimeter O ring cord as a replacement seal.
I hope this will cure the vacuum leak on this unit.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0948.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_0948.jpg.html)
That's looking great!
The plastic chain guides in the M100 engine are not known to break. This only applies to M116/7 engines. However, I think it is a good idea to change them if you are replacing the chain. The new ones are also plastic, and the timing chain tensioner rail lining wears too.
The camshaft oiler tubes are also firmly mounted on these, and the only issue one is likely to find there is blockage due to sludge.
Considering your engine is so clean, I don't think you have much to worry about there.
Tim
I'd track down a good sheet metal fabricator, after checking the cost of new repair panels and compare the prices
Nice job on the WUR! I'd put a dab of sealant at the ends of the new seal to make sure there's no leaks
Hi
I didn't do much the last week or two on the car, but I was able to determine that my WUR is beyond a repair kit.
After installing the make shift O ring seal, I hooked it up again to my injection testing set up and got the same PSI readings.
40 PSI after starting the fuel pump, then creeping up to 60 PSI.
The pressure shouldn't move at all as long as the heater or vacuum is not hooked up to the unit.
I stole the WUR of a 380, installed it on my system and at once all the pressures fell in line.
54 PSI max with the heater energized, that is exactly where it should be.
The control pressure decreases with the application of negative pressure, as it should do.
Then I put the WUR in the freezer for about one hour, and installed it as fast as possible.
10 PSI was the reading just after installation, slowly going up as the WUR took on ambient temperature.
7.5 PSI is the lowest possible control pressure a WUR can generate.
I would like to use this unit on the 6.9, but the 380 want's it's WUR back and the vacuum hook up's are different on this more modern units.
Those front and rear window gaskets look pretty typical of W116's that haven't had them replaced, and the resulting leaks/rust is the death of many a W116. :(
Those floor pans look identical to 450SE(L) ones, though.
Wow, that is a nasty lot of rust :/
But if you need encouragement, I can post pics of my parts 350SE. It'll make you feel much better :)
You mean like this?
http://forum.w116.org/mechanicals/locating-coolant-drain-plugs/
Hi Every one
Sorry I didn't update for a while, but not much happened in the last few months.
I still don't have the car at home.
Just picking it apart at the place it is parked right now.
Here are some pics of the sorry condition the car is in.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_1186.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_1186.jpg.html)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_1185.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_1185.jpg.html)
On the bright side, i got a first batch of cad plated parts back.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_1301.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/1960mog/media/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_1301.jpg.html)
I just do some component rebuild like brakes, starter, alternator and such at home.
Will keep you informed of further progress.
Fantastic.
It is utmost courage accepting such restoration.
Good luck
How do you find someone who does the cadmium plating?
Quote from: Casey on 10 October 2013, 09:58 AM
How do you find someone who does the cadmium plating?
I know several metal finishing shops in California.
One in Long Beach did this load.
Let me know if you need addresses or phone#.
Quote from: djenka018 on 10 October 2013, 03:34 AM
Fantastic.
It is utmost courage accepting such restoration.
Good luck
Thanks.
Some times I think I bite off more then I can chew.
If I go through with the restoration still depends on the condition of the body and the engine.
I can determine there condition if I ever get the car home.
If you can get to the car, surely you can bring it to you?? ???
You're doing great! Love the cad plating, it looks so great in a restored car.
I've had the pleasure of driving a low mileage 6.9 (17k miles, 1980 car) and, believe me, you should keep going, you'll absolutely adore it when it's done...
Hi Everyone
Sorry for the long silence.
Someone just reminded me to post a update.
I was able to bring the car home to Nevada.
It is still in the same condition then in the last pics.
Unfortunately my job demands most of my time right now.
On average i am home one day a week.
That allows barely any time for the family and non for the car.
In top of that , they will move the company from St. George to Salt Lake City.
That would be a 7 to 8 hour drive from my house in Nevada.
I have to rent a house in Salt Lake City, with no chance to work on the car at all.
Hope the situation will get better in the future.
You've done some great work so far and it'd be a shame to give up because you have no time
I am not giving up.
Is just the time problem right now.
This may become a long term project.
Or is it already one?
Any new updates on this one ???
Quote from: daantjie on 20 February 2015, 05:54 PM
Any new updates on this one ???
Not much progress since the last pictures.
The problem is time and i still have to find a donor car for the floor panels.
I travel a lot for work, that leave barely any time for the family and non for the car.
But i didn't give up on it.
Almost a year later, is there still a pulse on this patient, or has it flatlined :'(? i hope not, where there is life there is hope 8)
It is now more then two years that i was able to do something on the car.
However, last weekend i was able to remove the engine.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_1608.jpg)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_1757.jpg)
This is what it looks right now.
I plugged all the holes in preparation for cleaning.
Most of the intake valves got stuck in there guides, probably because the engine was sitting so long.
I was able to free them, but i hope i did not bent one when i turned the engine over to remove the torque converter.
My biggest problems are still the rusted out floor boards.
So far i was not able to find any new or used parts to take care of that, but i did not look very hard either.
There was a guy on ebay recently selling tons of new 116 body panels.
if you need rear floor boards, i can carefully cut out from my 6.9 parts car they are in perfect condition, if u need send me a pm
Quote from: daantjie on 20 April 2016, 09:23 PM
There was a guy on ebay recently selling tons of new 116 body panels.
Those are in a container, on their way here...sorry..
But, I got them ridiculously cheap, and have little need for them, as far as I know. My cars are pretty hard, but I was kind of forced to take the lot, in-one-go.
if you're still in need in a few months, I'll gladly send them to you at cost.
Hi every one
The water pump in my 6.9 has two separate bearings and a spacer between them.
Is this the way to fix this pumps now, because the original bearing is not available anymore?
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_1760.jpg)
The bearings are still good, but what about this impeller?
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_1766.jpg)
Only two of the vanes have this type of damage.
Is it from corrosion or cavitation?
Also, I was able to clean up the engine.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_1782.jpg)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m583/1960mog/450%20SEL%2069/IMG_1783.jpg)
A question about 6.9 starters.
My starter does not engage or spin when i try to bench test it.
It spins nicely if i power the motor directly.
I am unable to pull the 9 teeth gear out manually, even with the solenoid removed.
Only with the aluminum housing removed, the one the solenoid bolts to, i am able to pull the gear out.
Even then is it hard to get it going, it feels like some kind of magnet is holding it back.
Ones it moves a few mm, it slides easy.
Any suggestions are welcome.
Thanks
Wow that engine looks simply fantastic nice work 8)!
For waterpump check with member "s class" I think he went through the bearing debacle and might be able to assist you.
Any progress, has this beast risen from the ashes???
Hi
No progress.
1. I don't have much time to work on anything anymore.
2. I did take on a 6.3 for a friend.
3. I still need replacements for the rusted out floor boards.
I am sure one of this days i will get back on it.
nevermind.....