My new W116

[yxi]

Hi guys, just thought i would briefly introduce myself and my newly aquired w116. I am from Norway, 35 years of age, and my W116 is a 41 year old german called 280SE

Just had the car for about a week and slowly getting to know it and w116 in general. The car is very cared for, has been in the same family since new (before i got it), passed down 3 generations since new. It has 184000km on the clock.

There are a few issues that i will be looking in to and probably ask here for some guidance, i guess the best way is to create a topic for each of the issues, if i can't find anything by searching. Will do that when i get on with things.

to-fix-list:

1. Have do help with some pressure on gas pedal for the first 3-4 minutes after cold start, else it will die. Already posted a thread about this issue.
2. Suspecting a little high idle when warm (maybe someone compensated for problem 1?)
3. Water in all footwells after rain/wash. I have read either firewall behind fuse box, or windshield seal.
4. Locking the doors with key don't work. key turns both ways, but no action. Same for both front doors. (i don't know if i have central locking).
5. hood cable too long? the whole hood release latch is just hanging in the footwell, and i have to pull the wire for the hood to open.
6. Broken lever in the heater unit, and stuck lever on the other side.

Actually thats about it I think, i think that covers all the problems i have come across. All more or less small things that should be possible to fix.
Everything else works like a charm, and it is really fun in so many ways taking it out for a drive. A thing of beauty, that old, working so good. Very nice feeling!

I have a few pics, but once i get it sorted and properly cleaned and detailed i will post some more :=)

[nathan]

looks like a very nice car with low km's. i like the exterior colour with the hubcaps too!

[daantjie]

For water leaks into cabin, yes, the spot under the fuse box is almost guaranteed to be rusted out, a well known design flaw in an otherwise very good piece of engineering art!

Check for area around where the hood cable enters the engine compartment, there is a grommet there, which can be completely rusted out.  This leads to water entering the cabin and dripping down from all sorts of places onto your foot   Some guys fashion drain holes from inside the engine compartment down into the wheel well from the grommet area, but it is helluva tight in that space to work.  Best to remove the fuse box and do this properly, but this is a mammoth task, not to be taken lightly!  Take lots of pics so you know where all the wires go, otherwise you are in for a nightmare...

If you have a sunroof, check the drain tubes in A and C pillar, they are commonly clogged, leading to water welling up and coming down into the cab.

[w116john]

hi

thats a good looking car, a cool car with the older style door cards, and the problem / to do list is not too long but you could spend time chasing water aand vacuum leaks.

the w116 is consistent in where they leak, i would use a hose and hose certain area's to try isolate it first.
it could be leaking in more than one place as was mine the drain hole in the engine bay under the hood release cable and later i found a hole beside the drain hole in sunroof. hopfully its not under the fuse box.

best of luck with it, one step at a time and enjoy it

john

and then chase vacuum

[adamb]

Congratulations with your purchase. The early 280SE is a fine beast with excellent performance. I love the early interior it its minimalism. And I prefer the original steering wheel. If you search this forum you'll find lots of info on water leaks. It's worth reading up those threads.

[revilla]

I like the color (int ext) combination.  Nice purchase.  Fixing those small issues is part of the fun. enjoy.  the list will grow slowly but every time you'll fix/improve something she'll get better and owner's pride grows exponentially

I have fixed both vacuum and water leaking.

Vacuum:  I first replaced 3 little check valves located at engine bay close to the fusebox.  They aren't that expensive and can be found at MB dealers. They were totally clogged. Remove them and test.  They should allow airflow in just 1 direction and blocked the other way.  Once I did that my locks came back to live -but only with engine running- good start!! Then I proceeded to search for leaks: major ones were found in the 2 rear doors elements, rubber was shot.  They are easy to replace just be careful when removing door panels (tricky the 1st time). 

Water ingress:  as said before, firewall under fusebox, 99% you have some level of corrosion there. I didn't remove it all just made it loose enough to fix corroded area.  I also added a metal piece next to fusebox at engine bay to block water from running under it.  I drilled a small hole under area where hood cable enters to prevent water accumulation. I replaced all grommets in the firewall (wipers cable, hood cable, heating tubes, etc).  Replaced windshield rubber seal. Replaced trunk/boot seal after fixing corrosion holes in that channel.  Unclogged 2 A/C drains.  And finally removed, replaced and sealed 2 screws holding driver side wing plastic lining as drops were coming in from there too.  This was done in a long period of time and finally she goes out in any weather and finishes with a dry interior just like in 1977 when she left the factory   I don't miss the pool in my feet.

I hope it helps.  Enjoy and post your progress, this forum is always helpful.

Robert

[KenM]

Nice purchase there, as said already water in the footwells can come from a few sources but it's always a bad sign. Check the winscreen seals, front and back, also the sunroof drains, air con drains, also be sure to dry it out properly, pull up the mats and the foam sound deadener underneath if it's still there, just a massive sponge that holds litres of water and will rot your floor out quicker than anything. You will be amazed how much thinner they are when dry...