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My first W116 here at last

Started by gavin116, 10 April 2011, 01:54 PM

Casey

Those lights in the middle - you added them?  Where did you find them?  I want to do the same!!

gavin116

#91
The result of my mechanical abilities

Well, I no sooner started the car to go back to the storage facility, than it stopped dead!  I had to push the heavy beast to the side of the road.  Checked that there was still petrol in the car, there was still spark.  I tried cranking the engine in case it had flooded.  No good.  I was a little taken aback as I had started the car and moved it around after the fuel hose problem, and it ran well.  Nevertheless, there was no delivery of fuel.  So, I must have unsettled the fuel pump.

I got the breakdown out, and the young man seemed to know less about cars and engines than me!  He proceeded to drain my battery and try his level best to kill my starter.  In the end he loosened one of the fuel injector couplings and it became obvious it was as dry as a desert. 

A while later the recovery van arrived, and we made our way to the storage facility.

So, the culmination of my weekend

I guess it's off to the real mechanics next week.

Regards

Gavin
1979 450SE "Mrs White"
2022 Touareg-R 3.0TSi Hybrid
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adamb

Well, at least you know where problem lies. Don't know if you know this but if you put your autobox on R you can turn on ignition to start the engine, this will activate the fuel pump without activating the starter motor. This way you can test the pump without ignition. If the fuel pump is not audible, try an alternative fuse before proceeding to check the pump electric connections, etc.


koan

That's disappointing to hear after your successes with car, hope you get back to it soon.

koan
Boogity, Boogity, Boogity, Amen!

jbrasile

Wow Gavin!!! What a weekend!!!

Let's see:

1) Worse idle with new HT leads, cap and rotor - check your ignition timing as well as the CO adjustment to make sure it is all within spec. since all of the ignition parts are new and we don't know if the car was previously tuned with the old parts, everything needs to be re-checked.

2) Fuel system overhaul - not an easy job... I see that your damper looks pretty tired, you might want to replace it as well. Wise decision letting a pro do it

3) Sunroof seals - to get the front seal to fit correctly you shouldn't have to remove the deflector, however if you do decide to take it out it is held in place by 3 "shoes" left, center and right. You just need to be super careful not to scratch to top of the car and I'd remove the new seal and watch the side ones so they don't get damaged in the removal process. Also remember to take out the front stainless steel bar held by the little philipps screws.

Tks,

Joe

gavin116

#95
It's been a long time

Just went to pick up Mrs White from the SEC-man yesterday.  She's had some work done (almost entirely mechanical), including touching up the sills in the correct black colour.  She looks much more athletic now that this is done, rather than so tall when she was painted all white.  She ran very well indeed, surprising what a proper tune-up can do.  Her steering is also so much better now that she has had the fluid and the original three part power steering filter replaced.  I very quickly done my temporary install of the new Becker Grand Prix 1319, and it's going to look fab when done for real.  I will have to do the speakers as I think that is letting the side down.  My new windscreen mount Becker sat nav is a real treat compared to my original Tom Tom potato.

Only managed to get the car to storage, lots to do yesterday, now off to Italy this morning.  Will go down to fetch the old girl when I'm back, take some photos and have a good chat.

Regards

Gavin
1979 450SE "Mrs White"
2022 Touareg-R 3.0TSi Hybrid
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gavin116

#96
A lazy weekends work

Well, it's about time I got pen to paper and let you know what has been happening with Mrs White.  Those of you who have been following my post/blog will know that Mrs White suddenly died the last time I had her home - terminal fuel pump.  Having had the car recovered to the storage facility, I then went and ordered an entire fuel pump holder and all the rest of the parts for the fuel pump assembly from MB.  (I had ordered a fuel pump and accumulator from Joe.)  The SEC man was kind enough to install this for me, and he also did a full service.  There were a lot of other small things too that he attended to for example a lost air mixture screw cover, all new belts etc.

Series of photos the old fuel assay, new parts and installed, wax oiled and ready to go!
Click on picture to enlarge

Mrs White also received a little new paint, satin black to the bottom of her flanks.  She really does look so much better, the car has shrunk a little, looking more sleek rather than tall and ungainly.  The SEC man's forte is certainly not painting, as sadly there is a little over-spay under the bonnet where he touched up after attending to one or two minor rust spots.  I shall take the car to a more specialist place for this in the near future.  I will leave him to attend to solely mechanical stuff in the future.

Spot the difference:  Mrs White and Susan (Mrs White's painted sills, hedge cut, neighbours to-let sign down).

So, one of the main reasons to get the car home was to have a new rear silencer box fitted for the impending M.O.T..  Well, blow me out of the water, but Quickfit have managed yet again to come up nil points despite ordering the part and paying a deposit a week ago!  So, I will have to let the SEC man deal with that this coming week.  He will also attend to the M.O.T. and he will send my steering wheel to be leather covered.  Can't wait to grip that baby when she's back.

I also kept myself occupied in the meanwhile doing several little jobs:  I changed the right side rear door rubbing strip with a new one.  Put a blind spot mirror on the driver's mirror.  Then I got going on some slightly more serious jobs.  I removed and re-installed my radio.  I took Joe's advice and followed his instructions to the Tee.  You will note my lovely new Becker radio installed almost like factory!  And attached to the windscreen my marvellous new Becker SatNav.   Now although I was really disappointed that the unit doesn't support full UK post codes, I found that it was very easy to use, and just super.  I would highly recommend this unit to anyone!

New Becker radio (Grand Prix 2000 - 1319) and SatNav (Professional 43 Control)
Click on picture to enlarge


The dash as it now stands


I would like people's opinion about the fuse situation with regard to the radio.  The Becker unit has a fuse in the rear.  As my radio wire in the fuse box has no fuse connector (and as you will see, it looks pretty factory to me), do you think I need to install one?  I have just pushed the two ends together.

The radio wire in the fuse box

I do still need to sort the aerial however.  I can see the factory aerial wire, but will need to locate the real factory blue wire, I think I see it in the radio  aperture, but I will need to do a continuity test with a long wire.  Strange thing, is that the current set up for the trigger wire measures 12Volts!  I will be doing away with this home electric flex, as well as the current electric aerial.  I need to have the fender welded and painted.  Then I will have the left fender drilled, and a new Hirschman electric aerial installed in the correct place, tapped into the proper factory harness.

I also re-installed my rebuilt cruise control amplifier, but I must still take the car out on the open road and give it a try.  Many thanks to Tony Leach of the MB club UK for re-soldering and changing the old caps.  Tony can be reached via the club (or on 07771 966977) if anyone local needs an economic repair of their CC amplifier.  Installing the under dash panels and knee rolls is a real labour of love.

That was about all I had time for yesterday before heading off to Ascot to go and watch some horse racing.

This morning I got started on the long overdue rubber tasks.  I changed the rear boot seal with ease.  I haven't glued it down, and it seems to be okay, so I shall leave it as it stands.  I then tackled the left front passenger door.  I removed the door panel, the wing mirror and the door check strap.  Everything is in remarkably good condition, and fairly well lubricated.  There was no plastic cover between the door card and the inside of the door however.  I did put a little more grease on the power window regulator and the teethed cogs.  The window is much quieter now.  The window wipes were the most tricky of the lot to install.  In reality, I think it only necessary to replace the outside seals, but as I had ordered eight, I then felt duty bound to replace both.

I did have to have two goes at re-fitting the door card, but I think from now on it will be easier to do this job.  I do still need to re-visit this door again, as I want to replace my wing mirror with a power one from a R107.  Does anyone know if this is possible?  I can then install a sheet of plastic.  I will also need to replace the padding on the driver's door when I do that one, as the upholstery is bulging on that door card.

A series of pictures showing the old seals on the driver's side, the new seals on the front passenger's side.  Also note the difference between the old and new window wipes.
Click on picture to enlarge


I had bought some new rubbers for the front bumper as it was obviously in an altercation in a previous life.  The thick rubber had a crack, and it was for this reason that I wanted to change it.  I was really quite shocked when I took the rubber off, as the bumper is fairly rusted.  I took a wire brush to it followed by a brass brush etc, and finally I covered it in a rust converter.  I suppose I will need to keep my eyes out for a new bumper.  Perhaps I should get one of those stainless steel knockoff jobs?  Nevertheless the upper overrider was in much better condition.  I suspect that the broken rubber on the upper caused water to leak and pool on the 'rubber rail'. 

Lucky I remembered reading a post on the org about replacing these rubbers.  The trick it to apply dish wash liquid to the ends.  This facilitated sliding them into the eyes, then you bend the rubber back on itself and it easily attaches to the 'rails'.

Bumper: before and after (note unfortunately that the bumper is rusting...)
Click on picture to enlarge


Other than that, I replaced my fuse legend with a new one, they're still available!  I had replaced the actual fuse box lid when I stuck the new hood lining on last visit.

New Fuse Legend

A new genuine MB cup holder.  It is kept in place by wedging a piece of black rubber between it and the console, as I didn't want to drill a hole in the base of the console.

Cup holder
Click on picture to enlarge

And last but not least, a view of the engine bay.

Work in progress
Click on picture to enlarge


I will let you know how the cruise control works out, and also about the M.O.T., and will post a picture of the recovered leather steering wheel.

Keep on 116ing

Gavin

1979 450SE "Mrs White"
2022 Touareg-R 3.0TSi Hybrid
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Casey

Nice to know that the fuse box keys are still available - I think I'd probably get the new one laminated to preserve it's life.

jbrasile

Nice to hear from you Gavin!

Looks like you made some pretty good progress with Mrs, White.

I wouldn't worry about the radio fuse since the new Becker already has one. As for the antenna wire, in the original installation it is covered by black insulation, I don't remember if the actual wire is blue, but it has a female spade connector so it should be easy to spot.

I know you have decided to leather cover your steering wheel, but may I suggest  that you leave it original? IMHO I just think the original look just suits the character of the 116 and your interior is so nice and factory fresh that covering the wheel may spoil its visual appeal.

These Beckers look so sharp!

For the internal door liner I used some painter's drop cloth cut using the door card as a pattern. Glue it with 3M 75 adhesive which allows for repositioning if you need to remove it later on.

Keep us posted regarding the cruise control. Mine works but I still have a slight drop in speed while going uphill and I am suspecting e leaky servo even though it checks out ok when I test it with a hand vacuum pump, will probably have to somehow leave it "armed" for a few minutes with the pump connected to see if it looses  pressure.

Tks,

Joe


300SDude

The left side upper bumper thing (between the headlights and the bumper) on my 300SD is actually broken and the black rubber part sticks out. I was wondering how hard it is to replace it, and where I could possibly find a new one?

Your car looks FANTASTIC! You have done so much work to it, and it shows. LOL, I wish my engine looked that clean!

Best of luck!

300SDude

Casey

Quote from: 300SDude on 18 October 2011, 07:16 PM
The left side upper bumper thing (between the headlights and the bumper) on my 300SD is actually broken and the black rubber part sticks out. I was wondering how hard it is to replace it, and where I could possibly find a new one?

It's called an overrider, and it's quite easy to replace, though if you want to do it without removing the headlights you'll want a 1/4" ratchet with an extension to get in there from the top.  Two bolts to remove in this manner (while holding the bottom nut with another wrench), and then the side mount bolts through the fender - you can get at the inside by reaching up inside the wheelwell.  I've got a nicely-mangled one you can have if you want it, will require beating to fit to unbent chassis. ;)  I found a replacement at a junk yard - there's a right one remaining there I think but no left.

300SDude

Quote from: Raptelan on 19 October 2011, 07:54 AM
Quote from: 300SDude on 18 October 2011, 07:16 PM
The left side upper bumper thing (between the headlights and the bumper) on my 300SD is actually broken and the black rubber part sticks out. I was wondering how hard it is to replace it, and where I could possibly find a new one?

It's called an overrider, and it's quite easy to replace, though if you want to do it without removing the headlights you'll want a 1/4" ratchet with an extension to get in there from the top.  Two bolts to remove in this manner (while holding the bottom nut with another wrench), and then the side mount bolts through the fender - you can get at the inside by reaching up inside the wheelwell.  I've got a nicely-mangled one you can have if you want it, will require beating to fit to unbent chassis. ;)  I found a replacement at a junk yard - there's a right one remaining there I think but no left.

Thanks for the info. Don't think I am into pounding a bent one, lol.

Actually, I am probably the only one that really notices it because I am the one who washes it all the time. It's just one little weird thing that I will fix eventually. The little button-tab thing that is in the top of the overrider (thanks, I had heard that, but forgot it) is also missing off the left side. I don't really understand what their purpose is in the first place.

My headlights come-out fairly easy though, I have had them out already when trying to determine why the rt. side low beam wasn't working.

I need to put the sail panel back on the passenger side as well. (The painted panel between the front doors and the windshield). The very top plastic piece that holds it on needs to have the screw tapped out of it. I have a replacement plastic clip for it in the glove box. Just kind of chicken to tap it out myself, lol. (I am always afraid I will screw something up worse than it is already, lol).


300SDude

gavin116

#102
There must be an easier way...

Hi

Just a progress report and to answer some questions.  I took Mrs White back to the SEC-man on Monday, only to find the exhaust-shop had phoned to say that the wretched exhaust had now arrived!  So, on Wednesday I went over to see them.  I offered to take the exhaust for less money and deliver it to the SEC-man if he had not already organised an exhaust.  It just so happened that he had not, and in the end the exhaust-shop knocked off some cash.  Everyone was happy in the end, although, I will personally not be giving them my custom ever again (had similar problems with tyres not arriving for both my Audi's).  The car sounds really good now without the blowing.  She apparently 'sailed' through her M.O.T.

The cruise control.  Well what can I say, it works after a fashion.  The unit is slow to engage, I cannot just blip the stalk like I do on the Audi.  I also have to 'dial in' a good 5mph over the speed I want selected.  It seems to hold it there for a while, but if I need to apply throttle, then it invariably settles down to a lesser speed.  All the other functions work fine, the 'decelerate' is super sensitive, but the 'resume' needs to be held in place for a while.  'Accelerate' needs me to hold the stalk up to gain speed, again having to factor in the +5mph.  I am not sure if this is acceptable performance for a unit designed in 1972 (but built in 1979), I may yet contact Tony and get his opinion.

As I rescued Mrs White from the SEC-man yesterday morning, I had a rather pleasant drive home to Hammersmith.  Tried out the cruise control several times en-route.  The new Becker radio is working well, I still want to replace the speakers though, the current set is very 'tinny'.  I bought two rectangular blind-spot mirrors at a Halfords store on the way and stuck them on my wing mirrors, hooray, no more blind-spots!

When I got home, it was rubber time again.  I really am looking forward to seeing the last of all this rubber!  I changed the door seals on the left passenger door, and also the driver's door.  Now all I have left is the rear passenger door.  I also changed the external window wipe on the left passenger door, now to do both on the right side.  I think I will leave the internal wipes as they are because (when I done the front passenger door) they are in a good condition.  And, it's a fiddly job, and the fiddlier the job, the more 'ham-fisted' I tend to become... :-[

Speaking of which, this thread's title - how do you change the rear light seals?  I managed to do the left light, but it was so traumatic, that I am very reluctant to do the right!  So, I removed the tail light, then thought that I would pull the old seal off.  Oh no, you cannot do it that way, you need to separate the lens from the aluminium backing.  Done that, but then new seal doesn't tend to stay in place.  It just falls off all the wretched time.  I eventual got it sort of in place, and tightened down the screws a little.  Then careful using a large flat blade screwdriver, I gently tucked the seal in all the way round, tightening the screws as I went.

This took at least an hour, and I feel there must be an easier way?  Can anyone give me some tips?

And finally, I am also going to tackle the rest of the bumper strips if there is time on Sunday before I take the car back.  I have enough to finish the driver's side front bumper, and then I can also do the rear bumper, but I will need to buy two more pieces of rubber to do the rear over-riders.  Speaking of which, 300SDude, I didn't need to take the over-riders off, so couldn't help with that one, but I see Casey had already rescued you on that front.  Looking at your latest pictures of your A-pillar escutcheons, I have a little damage to both sides of mine, almost as if someone drove into a washing line.  I will see if they are still available at MB and at what cost...

Off to Birmingham by train now, so not pottering with Mrs White today, but I hope to be doing that rear light seal with consummate ease following someone's instructions that include that little tip that makes difficult jobs easy.

Bye for now.

Gavin



1979 450SE "Mrs White"
2022 Touareg-R 3.0TSi Hybrid
[url="http://forum.w116.org/test-drive/my-first-w116-here-at-last/"]http://forum.w116.org/test-drive/my-first-w116-here-at-last/[/url]
[url="http://forum.w116.org/the-org/british-near-london-meet/msg97613/#msg97613"]http://forum.w116.org/the-org/british-near-london-meet/msg97613/#msg97613[/url]

koan

Cruise control operation sounds about right, just like mine used to behave before it developed a very annoying over and undershoot, constantly swinging about +/- 8kmh around the set speed.

koan

Boogity, Boogity, Boogity, Amen!

Gerard

Quote from: koan on 22 October 2011, 02:33 AM
Cruise control operation sounds about right, just like mine used to behave before it developed a very annoying over and undershoot, constantly swinging about +/- 8kmh around the set speed.

koan

gavin116
My 450 SEL Cruise Ctrl used to work very similar to what you have described.   It never swung +/- like Koans though.  But compared to my sisters W210, the system was not nice to use.