News:

The ORG - No back-slapping boys club!

Main Menu

My first W116 here at last

Started by gavin116, 10 April 2011, 01:54 PM

gavin116

#45
Whoops! Sorry Joe, I didn't thank you for the compliment on the engine bay.  Although I have only just scraped the surface here if you'll excuse the pun.  I intend to do a "deep clean" when I bring the car home for the weekend.  I have however found that some of the areas where I did clean are oily again.  Could this be some excess oil being expelled through a breather pipe?  As mentioned the car seemed to be slightly over filled on the oil front.  Any tips for removing burned on waxoil?

I have tidied a few bits and pieces here and there as I have been going along.  You will notice if you flip back and forward on the engine bay pictures, that I installed a closed cell foam pad around the "blue pipe" (is this to do with air conditioning?) to stop it rubbing against the brake booster replacing the rather ineffectual insulation tape there previously.  I am also replacing as much insulation tape as possible, and installing release type cable ties to keep things in place.

A picture of the engine bay at the very beginning

Regards

Gavin
1979 450SE "Mrs White"
2022 Touareg-R 3.0TSi Hybrid
[url="http://forum.w116.org/test-drive/my-first-w116-here-at-last/"]http://forum.w116.org/test-drive/my-first-w116-here-at-last/[/url]
[url="http://forum.w116.org/the-org/british-near-london-meet/msg97613/#msg97613"]http://forum.w116.org/the-org/british-near-london-meet/msg97613/#msg97613[/url]

jbrasile

Hi Gavin,

Tks again for your kind words, it would be nice to spend some time in the UK, hehehe....

I did't think of using the + from the clock to power the tach when I did the mod on the  280S years ago, however since the tach should function only when the engine is running I am not sure what the implications would be, I am just afraid you may end up with an unnecessary current draw that will kill your battery, but again I am just not sure about that. Check the fuse for the tach in the fuse box and see if it's the same as the clock, if so then it should be no problem  connecting it the way you were planning, otherwise use the correct fuse.

Yes, you hook up the D from the tach to the - side of the coil. On the factory installation you run the wire from the fender connector.

I think I can see your radio fuse holder under the relays inside your fuse box, take a look,it should be there, it uses an 8amp glass fuse if I am not mistaken.

Great job on the aux fan sender wiring, it will look factory original once you are done, with the correct sleeving, wire color, etc...

That blue hose you mentioned I believe to be the high pressure for the a/c, I did not know RHD cars had their expansion valves on the right, I thought the heating/ac box was the same for all markets. Originally that hose would have a rubber ring that does the job of preventing it from rubbing against the brake booster, your solution makes sense.

With regards to the coil, the original blue unit from Bosch is NLA but sometimes you can find them new on e-bay, in fact I have purchased a couple 2 months ago, one is already installed in the 78 450SEL and the other I am just keeping as a spare for a future project, maybe when I buy back my beloved 81 500SLC... The replacement unit is Bosch number 00027, it is sliver not blue but the specs are the same. Even if you order one from your local MB dealer you will still get this Made in Brazil coil, I can supply them for $75.00

The original release type cable ties you are using make all the the difference when you look at the details in the engine compartment.

Keep up the great work!!!

Take care,

Joe







gavin116

#47
Well, well, well, I managed to get from the country to London almost unscathed.  I set off from the car storage facility, and the car was good.  The new tyres are fantastic, the road holding is much improved, just a pity that they are two years old.  With the radio not working, I cranked open the sunroof, and listed to the throaty V8.  My temperature gauge sticks just a little above the 175 mark, and never moved higher the entire trip.

The temperature gauge just a little above the 175oF mark, and it stayed there despite some traffic.

I stopped off at a roadside stall/parking area, to duck my head under the bonnet(hood) and check the fuses.  As I withdrew the key from the ignition, there was an almighty electrical arcing noise, which made me quick juggle the key back to the number 1 position.  The noise stopped.  I tried to withdraw the key, and same problem.  I put the key back to position 1, and then noticed that the headlights were still on.  Hey presto, nothing wrong with the ignition, but that headlight on buzzer sure doesn't sound like those in modern cars.  Still can't find this elusive radio fuse.

It surprises me just how feisty the car is, despite her age.  On the motorway, cruising at 70mph, one merely applies some pressure to the right foot, okay heavy pressure, and whoosh, 90, just like that.  Still a bit scared to push it harder.

Built for cruising on the motorway, keeping up with the traffic

However, just as I was on the busiest part of the elevated section of the M4 motorway (no emergency lane in this section), the fuel starvation issue returned.  Shifted her into N, revved her up a little, but on response, in fact, I think she almost stalled.  I slid her back into D, with no effect.  Done this several times, slowed right down to 10mph, and limped on to the slipway, where I slid her into N, turned off the ignition, as she had definitely stalled (the battery light came on).  I restarted, gave a good pump on the accelerator, and all was back to normal again.  I really wish I could get to the bottom of this problem.  Any suggestion and ideas welcome.  It was with great relief that I arrived home.  

I cannot wait for tomorrow when I want to do a few odd jobs on the car, hope it doesn't rain too much while I'm working on the car.  I will post later as I do the jobs.  I was also greeted with Joe's package, a whole bunch of unidentifiable fuel hoses that I will investigate.  Just waiting on the fuel pump and coil now.  Thanks again for all the help Joe.  When I am ready to do the fuel system, I shall pour over some diagrams to get an idea of what goes where.

Till tomorrow,

Gavin
1979 450SE "Mrs White"
2022 Touareg-R 3.0TSi Hybrid
[url="http://forum.w116.org/test-drive/my-first-w116-here-at-last/"]http://forum.w116.org/test-drive/my-first-w116-here-at-last/[/url]
[url="http://forum.w116.org/the-org/british-near-london-meet/msg97613/#msg97613"]http://forum.w116.org/the-org/british-near-london-meet/msg97613/#msg97613[/url]

koan

The headlight warning buzzer is not exactly pure in tone!

When I got my "new" car the engine would occasionally stop, could be idling in traffic or speeding along. Turning the ignition off and back on always fixed it. I suspected the fuel pump was the cause but can't recall why. After a new fuel pump (and associated parts at the rear) it never happened again.

koan

Boogity, Boogity, Boogity, Amen!

jbrasile

Gavin,

Glad to hear you made it home ok from the storage facility. Too bad the trip wasn't 100% smooth...

You must have  an intermittent fuel pump problem, let's hope the new one fixes it.

One suggestion, when the car starts to loose power again on the move or on the highway, NEVER put it  in N and then back to D while you are at speed, the sudden pressure increase may destroy your transmission.

Let me know if you need any schematics to help with the fuel hose replacement. Hope you can get the EPC working  as well.

Tks,

Joe

Neko

#50
Very nice car, looks like it is in excellent condition. White Merc's definitely stand out. Congrats on the purchase. :)

EDIT: On the subject of fuel pumps, I'm assuming my mum's car has a major problem there. It'll constantly stall at low revs, and the gas almost has to be constantly held down a little to prevent it. Since I'll be using her car until I get my new engine put in, it's definitely something I'll need to look into.

But anyway, back on topic. :3

gavin116

#51
What have I done today?

I managed to swap over my donor rev counter, I didn't swap the other instruments, as the multi plug was slightly different, and there was a relay on the back of my temp/oil/fuel gauge.  I cleaned the entire assembly at the same time, new paint brush, and an E-cloth and the appropriate glass cleaner.  I also replaced every single bulb, including the two tiny ones.

My instrument cluster, has an extra pin in the multi-pin socket, and a relay behind the oil/fuel/temp gauge

Cleaning the instrument cluster (you'll need a size 6 and 7mm socket)

New Bulbs


I plumbed in the tacho lead (actually could have given myself more lead in the cabin, nevertheless) as well as the leads for the coolant level and the washer fluid level.  Both these jobs were rather time consuming and laborious.  I connected the three power feeds to fuse number four (both level indicators and the tacho), and then tidied up a little.

I looked at the radio again, but there was no fuse in the fuse box, in the radio, or on the wiring harness.  As I was busy in the fuse box, I installed my newly arrived upgrade fuses.  The eight and sixteen amp are identical, except for the metal material, the one  being copper, the other brass.

Fuse upgrade using non aluminium fuses (copper and brass)

I removed the washer fluid tank, drilled a hole onto the top to accommodate the new sensor.  I connected that one, and it works perfect.  I just don't get the check light, but Bolbol has offered help in this respect.

The warning light, the low washer fluid light reveals itself

However, disappointingly my tach doesn't work correctly, it is very bouncy, and shows a much higher value than the engine is turning.  I connected the tach feed to the -ve of the coil.  Do I need to take my pickup from somewhere else?

I also changed all my window washer hose, the new MB hose is black, it looks pretty neat.  I will need to order more hose to do the headlights, a real PITA, as I have realised that the bumpers will have to come off if I want to replace them!

I also managed to break the wingnut on the centre of the air cleaner, it literally fell apart in my hand.  This kind of put me into standoffish mode, and I still haven't done the FD filer job.  Will attempt that tomorrow, and must also tackle the cooling system.  In the meanwhile, I screwed off the ballast resistors and the cruise control actuator to deal with rust.  I must also take off Mrs White brain, and get the rust sorted there too!

Nearly forgot to mention, that the long suffering temperature sender lead is in-situ.

Hopefully I can do more work tomorrow, and a less rain.

Just finishing off the day with a rewarding beer.

Cheers,

Gavin
1979 450SE "Mrs White"
2022 Touareg-R 3.0TSi Hybrid
[url="http://forum.w116.org/test-drive/my-first-w116-here-at-last/"]http://forum.w116.org/test-drive/my-first-w116-here-at-last/[/url]
[url="http://forum.w116.org/the-org/british-near-london-meet/msg97613/#msg97613"]http://forum.w116.org/the-org/british-near-london-meet/msg97613/#msg97613[/url]

koan

#52
The relay on the back of the cluster is the headlight warning buzzer.

Did the tack come from an 8 or a 6? if from a 6 it will read 1.33 times actual RPM on an 8.

koan
Boogity, Boogity, Boogity, Amen!

jbrasile

Nice work Gavin!

So you connected the feed from the tach to the - of the coil, that is indeed correct and the tach should work. I know what you mean about a bouncy needle. I will chek the service manual library, I remember it shows how to hook it up to the connector on the fender.

That's cool you got all the warning lights to function!

As for the radio fuse, it's odd... I can't quite see it in your picture but did you check underneath the 2 relays? There should be an in line fuse right there.

Don't worry about the center wing nut on the air cleaner, you can replace it later, the latches around the pan hold the lid in place.

Pls let me know if you received the box with the Fuel pump, etc... I checked again and they show an attempted delivery at 4:26AM which can't be right....

Tks

Joe

1980sdga

The cluster looks good! I'm sure you'll get the tach worked out. Troublesome things, but soooo cool...

I like the washer fluid indicator!  Our diesels have brake warning lights and the glow plug light in those spots.  Can anyone explain the styrofoam in the center?

gavin116

#55
Hi all

Koan, so strange that you should mention the fuel pump as y problem source, as it has always been high on my list of suspects.  The first time the car behaved in kangaroo mode, I left the engine coughing and spluttering, and when I got out the car I heard a wine from the rear.  Looking into some of the paperwork that came with the car, it has had the fuel pump replaced before.  Anyway, I'm building up my collection of fuel components: injectors, hoses, fuel pump etc.

As for the tach, it is certainly from a 450 because it has the red line in the correct place, and the speedometer only shows two gear change points.  The donor car was an SL though, as it has a 107 preface.  I would have assumed they are the same?  

Yep, Jo, all the connections for the tach as we previously described.  I had to remove the relays and the relay housing in order to take the fuse rails out to connect the feeds for the sensors and the tach.  There was certainly no inline fuse in my fuse box.  

Just waiting for the last box now.

Went out last night to fiends for a rather alcoholic party.  Not faring so good this morning, will try attend to the radiator this afternoon.

Regards

Gavin
1979 450SE "Mrs White"
2022 Touareg-R 3.0TSi Hybrid
[url="http://forum.w116.org/test-drive/my-first-w116-here-at-last/"]http://forum.w116.org/test-drive/my-first-w116-here-at-last/[/url]
[url="http://forum.w116.org/the-org/british-near-london-meet/msg97613/#msg97613"]http://forum.w116.org/the-org/british-near-london-meet/msg97613/#msg97613[/url]

carl888

What a nice job, well done!

Can someone please explain the washer and coolant sensors.  I wasn't aware these warnings were available on a W116.  Does the washer lamp come only with the models that have the headlight wash system as well?  And was the coolant level sensor only on the later cars?

carl888

Quote from: 1980sdga on 11 June 2011, 01:05 AM
  Can anyone explain the styrofoam in the center?

I think the styrofoam insert covers up what would normally be the gear indicator for those cars with a column shift automatic.  On W126s, they have the same thing, but it's for the outside temperature gauge.


koan

The washer and coolant sensors are Gavin's additions, my 6.9 expansion tank has provision for a level sensor, just a matter of fitting the 126 parts and connecting it up to a lamp. There aren't any spare spots in my cluster or I would do it.

koan   
Boogity, Boogity, Boogity, Amen!

carl888