My first W116 here at last

[Squiggle Dog]

Oh, clever! That setup seems to work well.

[gavin116]

     
Making a console extension 101

Materials:
ABS plastic box
Dremmel tool
Wood veneer (in this instance Zebra wood or Zebrano)
Masking tape
Cold press veneer glue
Vacuum machine
Sandpaper
Wood stain (in this case Walnut)
Polyurethane aerosol

Measuring and cutting:
Begin by using an old traffic radio switch housing (Kurier) to trace the shape of the unit to the abs plastic box. Or you could cut out a template from stiff cardboard.



ABS plastic box


Once marked, the box was carefully cut to size using a Dremmel tool, and the final finessing done using coarse sandpaper (about 80 grit).  At this stage I traced the outlines for the switchgear I wanted to house in my new console extension.  I made holes for a wing mirror controller, a switch for my iSimple (mp3 player radio interface) and a USB power port.The lid of the box was cut slightly smaller than the U-section, and I cut out a hole in the center for easy manipulation of wiring that would need to be routed later.

Any slight problems were simply filled in with a hot soldering iron and some of the left over plastic.  The entire box was then sanded to get a nice keyed surface ready for gluing.  The switchgear was trial fitted one last time to ensure all was good.To form the rhomboid shape, I placed the U-section in boiling water, and gently persuaded the sides.  I had to do this several times before the ABS plastic yielded.  The U-section was appraised against the old traffic radio switch.




Outline of template traced, box cut accordingly, and profile adjusted



Trial fit of the switchgear: electric mirror switch, switch of the iSimple and a USB power charger

Veneer preparation:
Once the box was complete, it was now time to begin preparation of the veneer.   As the sheet was too small to use in one section, I very carefully halved the sheet across the grain using a guillotine.   The resultant two sheets were then book leafed together, and the pieces secured with masking tape (green in this case). The outline of the U-section was roughly traced onto the veneer.

Veneer taped together (these pieces removed before gluing, piece on reverse stays in position), soaked, dried and outline form drawn

Thereafter, the veneer was soaked in water for two reasons.  The water makes it more supple and less prone to cracking, which facilitated rough trimming with a heavy scissors.  Furthermore, you will note that the veneer will tend to curl, and particular attention should be payed to the direction of this curl.  The curl should follow any bends closely.

Application of the veneer:
When one is sure that everything is ready, the veneer is once again soaked in water.  The U-section of the box is wiped clean using isopropyl alcohol.  The cold press glue is then applied to the box using a roller to attain a good adhesion and an even thinness.  Pay particular attention to the edges and where there are any cutouts.The veneer is removed from the water, and dried with kitchen towel.  Whilst still damp, but not wet, more cold press veneer glue is applied to the back of the veneer.  The two pieces are then married: the veneer and the U-section.  There isn't instant adhesion, but do not worry, as the glue dries, this will become a hermetic join.

Box section showing glue applied with roller (and also to back of dried-off veneer)

Cold veneer wood glue

Carefully introduce the U-section into a vacuum bag, ensure that everything is sitting roughly correctly, apply the vacuum, constantly checking that the pieces are in the correct place.  (I had to cut my bag open and reposition a piece of veneer despite it being held together by masking tape, the section to the right shifted slightly.)

Wetglued veneered section placed under pressure (using a Sous vide vacuum machine)



Leave the sealed U-section under vacuum for two hours.  I left mine for about four hours to be on the safe side as I wasn't entirely sure about the adhesion of the cold press glue to the ABS plastic.  I cut the bag open, and removed the section.  At this stage, because the veneer was wetted, the U-section has to be left to dry out.

The section removed from the vacuum bag, I still need to trim the openings and sand the veneer around the periphery

Finishing:
Once dry, then the veneered U-section needs to be sanded.  Do not be scared to use sandpaper, as these shop bought veneers are quite thick.  (Under no circumstances use sandpaper on original MB veneers, as these are paper-thin and disaster will ensue!)  Begin sanding the edges with a coarse sand paper to get them level with the U-section.  Once level then sand the flat sections to get rid of any saw marks left from the manufacturing process.  Be careful were the veneer goes over an edge that you do not rub the veneer away.  At this point I used 160 grit. 

Once all the saw marks were removed, I then proceeded on to 600, 800 and finally 1200 grit. At this stage I trimmed out the cutouts for my switches using a Dremmel tool and a drill, followed by a rotary sanding drum.  I neatened any edges using sandpaper wrapped around a table knife.  (I did get a little tear-out here and there, or rather lifting of the veneer.  This was remedied using some more cold veneer glue and a toothpick.  Glue was applied, the U-section again placed under vacuum for 45 minutes.  A light sand and the piece was now perfect.)

I applied more glue using a toothpick to the lifted sections, and then re-vacuumed the piece



Staining:
Now that the piece is smooth and dust free, it is time to begin the staining process.  I used some kitchen paper towel, which I folded on itself several times.  I dipped this into the stain, and wiped in the direction of the grain till a thin even coat of uniform colour appeared on the wood.  Four hours later, and another thin even coat was applied and left overnight to cure.  A very gentle rub using a sanding block and 1200 grit sandpaper, and a quick wipe with a cloth dipped in isopropyl alcohol,  and it's on to the next step.

Wood-stain and Poly


Lacquering:
I chose to use an aerosol preparation as I didn't want to contend with brush strokes or stray brush hairs, and the inevitable dust that settles due to the slow drying time of conventional polyurethanes.  Just follow the manufacturer's details to the T.  When spraying, work systematically from the left to the right, and then visa versa.  Overlap each spray stroke by 50% to keep a wet edge.  The surface mustn't be too wet or runs will occur.  Leave to dry for the correct amount of time, then apply the next coat.

Dull looking Poly coating (12 coats to give the finished article a depth)

Do not let the project "over dry" as the subsequent layers will not merge and chemically bond as needed.  Build up a number of coats till the veneer has a nice glossy depth to it when wet (although this gets dull when dry).  The last layer can be a little thicker than the rest i.e. move the spray can in closer to the work.

Polishing:
Let the final topcoat dry for at least 24 hours.  Then rub it down with 1200 grit sandpaper.  I then coated the project with three coats of Danish Oil, do follow the instructions on the tin, especially the part about spontaneous combustion of the rags used!  If you have some rubbing compound to hand, this can be applied to a cloth, and used to buff the veneer a few days after the Danish Oil has cured. 

Then use some furniture polish and a soft cloth, combined with a lot of elbow grease.  Once a nice depth of shine is attained, sit back and admire!  (I am still waiting for my Danish Oil to harden before I use the rubbing compound and polish, but by and large please with the results.)

Danish Oil being applied (don't let your rags catch on fire!)

Final assembly:
The underside of the box can now be welded in place using a soldering iron, thereby ensuring good structural rigidity.  Install the box section on the console using good quality double-sided tape.  Ensure that a feed is placed prior to sticking down the box section.  Make any electrical connections, and marry the switchgear to the console extension.  Should look like your new edition was made by MB itself.

I couldn't wait so I did a trial fit, but I must still wait for the Danish Oil to harden, then I can rub it down with compound and polish it up to an even more lustrous shine!

Keep 116ing  

Gavin

[Squiggle Dog]

Oh, that is clever! It will also look original.

[gavin116]

Cleaning aluminium parts
So I finally won an eBay auction bidding on a Bosch WUR – 056.  I was so intent on getting the correct part, that I did away with looking at the pictures in detail, and instead concentrated on the "056" part.


After exchanging moneys via bank transfer (a pain in itself, like the convenience of PayPal myself) and then waiting on a slow courier named after a Greek god, my parcel finally arrived.

Upon opening my parcel, I immediately noticed my mistake...  The in between section and base plate are not the same as on my car.  There is an extra connection, and the vacuum connector is on the opposite side.

What to do?  As my WUR is a non-starter, and the WUR refurb kit is for the other WUR with the thinner middle section and only the single vacuum port on the same side as the electrical connector, I thought I might see if I could at least clean the outside.  I will then list it on eBay and see if it can find a new home, or if anyone on the org needs this version, I'm sure we can do a deal.


So, the results of the various cleaning methods, and some pictures.

Dishwash liquid:
Absolutely no effect


Carby cleaner:
Did remove a little surface grease and oil, but did nothing for the black staining.  Did this without gloves – a big mistake.  Take care, as the carby cleaner is very strong, burns the skin, not to mention the liquid lava effect when entering a microscopic abrasion or cut.  Melted my toothbrush too, as well as the cling-film bungs I made to block the open ports.  Made the kitchen stink like a refinery.

The WUR before (not much difference to this finish after applying the above two methods)




Micro sandblaster (top part of the WUR):
I took the WUR to work and tried my micro sandblaster.  I blocked off all ports with a silicone type material.  Bicarbonate-of-soda had not effect whatsoever.  I changed to glass beads: Aluminium oxide, and this worked a treat.  It consumed vast amounts of the powder, and my nurse wasn't happy with the dusty mess that it and I left.

This was by far the most successful attempt at refinishing the aluminium casting.  The problem is that the particle size was too small, and the sandblast effect was not even enough.  I might see if there is a local small business with an industrial sand blaster, and have the outside of the WUR cleaned in this way.


Sandblasted with fine beads




Dremmel tool and an abrasive sanding pad (engine mounting portion of the WUR):
Removed a little of the surface pitting, as well as the black stains, but left the surface shiny, and not matt.  Perhaps I should have used this process first followed by sandblasting?


Finish achieved by the Dremmel




Wet and dry sandpaper with detergent (area next to the engine mount):
Hardly done much, but the final outcome will be similar to above using more elbow grease i.e. too shiny.


Wire wool and WD40 (the fastening screw head bottom right):
I heard of this method used by folk who prepare engine bays for concourse.  Again it leaves wire splinters in your fingers, and wire debris that have to washed well away or they will rust and leave marks.  The finish is also too shiny.


To the left of the mounting: cleaned with wet and dry, bottom right screw: cleaned with wire-wool and WD40



So, I'll see what can be done at local engineering shop or similar.  I need to wait for another "056" WUR with the slim middle section to turn up on eBay again, then I can start my WUR rebuild in earnest.


Rebuild kit No 3



Keep 116ing ,

Gavin


P.S.  I think if you click on the pictures, ImageShack makes a full size available at much higher resolution?

[oversize]

WOW great work with the timber!  I'd probably get the WUR bead blasted and painted

[KenM]

Spectacular woodworking Gavin, what's the deal with Danish oil self combusting? Haven't heard this one before, sounds like an excellent party trick.

I recommend getting your WUR soda blasted, I bought myself a small setup some time ago, have only had a chance to clean up one bundt so far but it does a truly awesome job, gets off everything up to and

including paint in one pass and no damage to the surface, took me about 2 hours to go from a grotty faded rim to one looking brand new ready for painting. No sanding, grunting, chemicals etc, would do the

job beautifully on your WUR.

Cheers,

[littlefin]

Hi Gavin

I have recently had the WUR on my W126 professionally reconditioned. It now looks like this:



No rough running issues now 

[gavin116]

Hi Mark


Yeah, I'm pleased with the way the wood turned out, especially as it was my first ever attempt.  The internet is a wonderful thing, and I gained a lot of info form R107 and Jaguar forums.  Good youtube wood veneering videos too.  In hindsight, I would stain the wood, and then just apply a few layers of Danish oil and it will give that lovely lustre without the need to build up coats of polyurethane to get the 'depth'.


Ken I've never experienced the spontaneous combustion, and hope I never do.  I will have the WUR professionally blasted, but I like that finish, would be a pity to apply paint to it.  I've heard of something called warm wax which is what I might try.  Keeps the finish as is, but prevents stains.  No experience of it, so I will need to do more research.





Hey Phil, that WUR looks great, who did it, and how long did it take to do?  How is the 500, has it become your daily ride?  It would be nice to get my idle smoothed out, its been a long process with little improvement, but I'm hopeful to get the issues sorted...


Chat soon,


Gavin

[littlefin]

Hi Gavin

I am using the 500 SEL at the moment to make sure everything is working properly, because I'm taking the car to Germany at the end of May.  I had John Haynes remove the WUR and send it off to be refurbished. They refitted it & tested the pressures for me to make sure all in order.

[gavin116]

 Vacuum job

I went to fetch the Benz last night (Thursday), and was really happy to see the old girl again. Not sure why, but I always seem to view the car as female, despite her V8 muscle! Perhaps I should have called her 'Thunder Thighs'.  The car is now so much quieter with the new exhaust center section. At the same time, I am much happier with the new flex discs installed. Chaz did adjust the CO and idle speed whilst he was installing the latter bits and pieces as well as replacing the discs and soft brake lines front and rear, and the calipers up front with reconned Bendix types.

The trip home was uneventful, apart from refueling , ½ tank of 95 £75.00, and the cruise control slowly drops speed. I suspect this must be a vacuum issue, as I have recently replaced the amplifier. Speaking of which, the Audi's cruise control has died...

So today it was an early start as I pulled my parts box out of the loft containing an Aladdin's Cave of parts I have been steadily buying over the past few months. I have been so looking forward to working on the car, that I cannot believe that is has been 10 months since I last used the car. Actually this week has been the first week of really good consistent weather, about time as last week we were still in fleeces, and it's the summer solstice this weekend.

Where to begin? Well, vacuum of course. I replaced 1 three-way and 2 4-way vacuum pieces, 2 check valves, 1 curved piece on the distributor advance mechanism (or is it the retard), a specially ordered piece for the WUR, and then numerous straight pieces for the cruise control actuator, the cross over valve, then I ran into a problem. When I pulled the red vacuum line off of the distributor vacuum advance/retard mechanism, the other end pulled out with the perished rubber end attached. Problem was where did it attach?

Well after a little detective work I realised that it attached to the inlet manifold. Problem was it was too difficult to re-attach! Some lateral thinking, and I used a longer piece of straight tube, and routed it up and over instead of under. Another new blanking piece on the airflow meter, and it was job done.

I replaced a further air hose on the right hand cylinder bank. I bought a new rubber tube to attach to a return valve from the WUR to the fuel distributor. I will need to replace this at some stage, but it looks like it will entail a little bit of deconstruction. I still have the air hose that needs to be connected under the fuel distributor, and then that should be new rubber all round.

I attended to the spark plug leads next. Tried to clean them a little, they have never been the same since Chaz the SEC man worked on them with greasy hands... (My dad started off life as a mechanic and worked his way up to dealer principal, and let me say this, no mechanic worked on a car under my father's watchful eye with greasy hands...) Nevertheless, onwards and upwards, I managed to place almost all of my markers on the HT leads, a-la R107. Alas, the number 6 marker snapped, so a replacement needs to be ordered.

There was no way in h3ll that the HT leads were going to fit through the MB sleeve supplied, so more lateral thinking. Slit the sleeve along its length, and wound it around the HT leads, securing it with cable ties. I will source some black ties that look a little less obvious. Overall, I think it has neatened the engine bay considerably.

Surprisingly, the engine bay is very messy again, the engine looks as if it has sweated oil and grime all over the place. Made me think I needed to pull finger and do some more cleaning. I painted the left exhaust manifold with rust remover, and applied some Calyx. Must say I'm please with the look. I shall do the right hand side one at some stage too.

Tidied HT leads

Undressed manifold

Dressed manifold

Calyx


Time to wash hands thoroughly and divert attention to the interior of the car. I did a little more soldering, and here we have it, my new console extension sporting switches for the lecky mirror, my iSimple and USB charger. All in I'm happy with the results, although my handiwork leaves a little to be desired when compared with that of MB.

New zebrano console extention


I also changed the icons in the gear position window, they now read iPod (iSimple), low coolant, low washer fluid and headlights. I placed a green mask behind the iPod (iSimple) and headlights icons, instead of the orange warning lights. I also replaced my accelerator pedal. I went to replace my fuel level sender unit, but I notice that the top part is slightly different from the one I currently have. Not sure if they are interchangeable? So I thought it best to leave it be.

Now, it was on to that left hand tail lamp. I had battled terribly before to do the left hand side lamp, only to have John Haynes have to re-seat that side to get it waterproof. Fear not, I watched an episode of good 'ol Ken, where he explains to reinstall just the new seal and ally frame into the car. You must apply a little dielectric grease to the seal to allow it to manoeuvre.

Then you tighten the six retaining screws that are on the rear aspect till they are seated. Once done, you tighten the two on the corner aspect. The plastic taillight gets married to the frame in the same manner as the frame itself. I must still do a leak test to see if I have prospered...

At the same time, I imparted a new MB screwdriver set in my tool roll. I would like to know what exactly was standard equipment in so far as this is concerned. I have on the rare occasion seen a 420SL tool kit in its original plastic bag come up on eBay for sale.

Speaking of which, I have bought an original W116 V8 (350/450/6.9) sales brochure that related to the later half of 1978 as well as a paint catalogue. Unfortunately the cover of the former has some age related damage but I shall continue to trawl the internet to get a more pristine copy. Would be nice to find a price list too.

I returned to MB Brentford to pick up some more bits and pieces, a new grille, a very expensive front-end-securing-bits-and-pieces kit, and lights bulbs for all the headlights and tail lights. I will install these together with my new front indicator units (now just 'made in Germany and Poland', as opposed to be being 'Bosch' made) sometime in the near future. Won't be long now before MB parts will be outsourced to ROC.

Anyhow, Russell and the youngster came out to take a look at Mrs White, and they seemed generally enthused. I opened the hood and started her up for them, and she purred away melodically. I must say the drive is so much better just changing those few rubber parts that connect the vacuum tubes. I almost think I can leave the WUR, as she is really running well.

I returned home to do a little more under hood scrubbing. I washed some of the engine bay and the part of the engine too. I must get some proper detailing brushes and de-greaser. I noticed that there seems to be a rather large bolt missing in the center of the left hand engine mount/damper. The right hand side seems to have a bolt, so not sure, but I cannot see the engine jumping out of the engine bay.

I had to wash my window wash bottle out with stones, as it was full of crud. Not sure, but I think it may have been topped up with ordinary water. I'll buy some window wash on my travels tomorrow.

I must say, I was a little disappointed to find rust in all the wheel arches. I was going to let John Haynes do some rust repair work next month. I have the car booked in for a service and to get the aircon up and running. I wanted them to do the rust in the left wheel tub at the same time. Looks like I'm peeing in the wind. I need to bite the bullet soon and get the whole car re-sprayed.

Rust,rust, bl**dy rust





I'm still so unsure on this matter, as I don't want to take it somewhere where they break and ruin the parts when they remove them. And I want to have a good job done, so that I can sit back, relax and enjoy the car for sometime to come without worrying about recurring rust issues due to poor workmanship. Anyone know of a good UK based bodyshop? And what would you expect to pay for a full bare metal re-spray? I must go a see Martin in Hampshire who was on our Brooklands day.

Speaking of which, I'm off tomorrow to see the Mercedes-Benz Club UK concourse show in Milton Keynes. I hope I will learn something useful at the meeting, as I have always nurtured the idea of entering a concourse competition. Time will tell. I hope to report back with some photos of the event.

Keep 116ing

[KenM]

More nice work Gavin, I was in my engine bay doing valve clearances last week and noticed the exhaust manifolds in the same condition as yours,

this Calyx stuff looks to have done a very nice job, it's not just a rust converter I take it, but removes it entirely. I will chase down something like

this, looks like the goods.

[gavin116]

Hi Ken


No, the Calyx is only a dressing.  I cleaned off the manifold with rust remover gel and wire brushed them a little.  You then apply the Calyx with a cloth, a little goes a long way!


Kind regards,


Gavin


P.S.  Looks like I have been daft, and driving the SL too much (if that's possible), as the MB cruise control works slightly different to the Audi system.  In the Audi, one needs to push the set button first, which I forgot to do, so there's nothing wrong with the Audi's cruise control after all.

[gavin116]

The good, the bad, the ugly

To start however, we need to back track a few weeks to mid summer.  (I posted this originally the evening of the S-Class day - 20th of July, but after the posting got corrupted, I lost the will to live, in fact I wanted to man-handle the computer, and the person who invented the new wysiwyg format that we use that seems to get tself in a twist far too easily...)

The good:
I fetched the car from Goring-by-Sea after an 'oil service'.  The car is really going well at the moment.  Since I replaced all the vacuum check valves, and all the rubber connectors on the vacuum hard lines, my issues are now all sorted especially the surging.  The last bit of engine shake will need to be cured with some new engine mounts.

The bad:
I made a round trip taking in a fellow 116er's body shop to get a quote for rust removal and a bare metal re-spray.  It had to be the hottest day of the year, and I was quite incapacitated.  Unbeknown to me, the sun was wreaking havoc...  (I'll explain later.)  I met Martin's dad who has been in the trade for many years, and he basically confirmed what the other bodyshop had said.  Rust all over, but not too bad, underneath very solid.  Fenders are toast, could be repaired, rear wheel arches need replacing.

The ugly:
Roll on Saturday, and I was out with a bucket and water and vacuum, giving the car the once over, as Sunday was the S-Class day at Milton Keynes, UK's official M-B headquarters, and the first ever S-Class day.

Sunday arrived, and I quickly dried the early morning dew off the car, and a little bit of last minute bumper polishing.  The bumpers have a bite far worse than their bark, somehow I managed to gouge a chunk of skin out of my finger.  Good news is it didn't go all over my freshly pressed shirt.  Never mind, onward and upward.

So there I was on the A40, heading up to Milton Keynes via Oxford when I heard a really bad noise.  I thought, that can't be a tyre, the steering wheel is dead steady.  I thought it must be the radio.  As I turned the radio off, the sound disappeared.

I assumed all was well, but to be on the safe side, I left the radio off to listen to the car, and see if any noise returned.  And it did, this time I slowed down, and when I looked in my rearview mirror, the car behind me was flashing it's lights.  I slowed right down, and pulled over into the emergency lane.

I jumped out the car and made my way to the fellow driver, enquiringly.  He pointed to the front of my car, and then I saw it, I had a new aerial?  So, it transpires the very hot weather had made the ally trim piece rise out of the new rubber seal.  (The windscreen gasket was supplied by M-B Classic Centre Irvine.  I pointed out to my technician at John Haynes when I fetched the car that the trim was standing awkwardly.  He assured me that it was inserted into the seal before it was married to car when they did the sunroof.)

The First trim to leave was the right trim.  I couldn't see this happening, as the horizontal piece on the top popped out, allowing the vertical piece to slowly slide upward and outward, all out of my field of vision.  I think it may have hit the other driver's car, but as his car was an older model that looked somewhat unloved, he was more concerned about what M-B would charge me for a new surround if they had any.  And so, I pull the somewhat distorted left hand piece free, put it in the boot (trunk), and continued on my way.

The S-Class day had a very good turn-out, but not so many 116's.  We were four in total, Phil's 280SE, my 450, and two 6.9's.  There was a plethora of 126's, 140,  a few 108's and so on.  My highlight had to be a W100 SWB Großer that arrived like a floating carpet: a spectacular colour combination of white grey (158) with a lovely blue (like the Mediterranean sea) leather interior.

I set off back home, half licking my wounds, rusty and now trim-less.

Till next time,

Gavin                                 

[John Hubertz]

Gavin,

Losing that chrome windshield surround is a tough break.   Will you have to pull the windscreen to reinstall a new one?

[gavin116]

Brrr, it's cold!

Ever since I got Mrs W, one of the things on my to do list has always been to recommission the air-conditioner.  For a long time, I have been umming-and-ahhing, not really knowing what to do.  I had asked Joe Brasile for some advice, and he suggested that I look at keeping the system as original as possible, i.e. to stick with R12.  This would prove to be the most reliable and efficient solution.  He mentioned that I would need to change my expansion valve, the receiver dryer, and probably have the compressor re-built.

So now I had a starting point.  John Haynes confirmed that the system was kaput: "A/C receiver dryer unit full of moisture, suspect A/C expansion valve U/S (low side very low and no cooling)".  The desiccant in the dryer had made its way into the expansion valve...

After a lot of head scratching, I decided to go the replacement route.  After much Internet searching, I found a place in the States (discountacparts), that could supply me with a new compressor, and I mean new.

This is a modern re-design of the Delco (GM) A6 compressor. It has an aluminum body versus the original cast iron, which results in a 20lb weight savings (original design is 36 lbs, and this version is 16 lbs) although it still feels heavy!   This compressor uses modern internals, a modern spring-plate clutch, and is fully compatible with R12 or R134a refrigerant.

Next hurdles were the small peripherals, namely the receiver dryer, expansion valve, pressure and temperature switches.  My local M-B dealer was able to help with the pressure and temperature switches, but not the expansion valve.  This was sourced again from the States (I bought an extra one for keeps sake), although it was also widely available on eBay Germany.  I also bough a new replacement boot for the temperature switch as the old one was perished.

The receiver dryer was my bitter sweet, buy a unit for a LHD car, and it can be had for as little as £30, but the RHD version, only available from the agents, (and there went another lobe of my liver) at five times the price of LHD unit.  The LHD dryer cannot fit the smaller RHD V8's (350 or 450) since the openings and window are reversed, which means it would need to be installed upside-down and back-to-front. 

So, I now had all my parts, and was ready to proceed.  I took the car down to John Haynes and left it with them.  The Technician was quite impressed with the shiny new compressor, I would have preferred a matte finish myself.  He wasn't sure about the pre-loaded oil, as it was PAG-46, compatible with R134.  I contacted the compressor supplier, and they too confirmed to use mineral oil if using R12 (quite helpful guys).

And so, the system was cleaned and flushed, the new parts installed, and the system charged with R22 (R12's direct drop in replacement, soon itself to be replaced by R417a) and a leak detection dye.  It was then tested and all checked out okay: the condenser and evaporator, and all the lines are leak free.

On the way home from John Haynes, I had occasion to try the air-con several times.  It blows a lot cooler than that in my A6, even when on a low setting.  Hopefully, we'll have a very hot bank holiday weekend in the Moselle valley, and I can really get to enjoy the air-con.  I wonder what effect it will have on fuel consumption?  I should think it would have little influence, as the large engine is sure to cope easy with the extra drag, or I may be totally wrong here, and it has a very significant effect?  Time, I suppose will tell.

I did a few other bits and bobs too.  I managed to get my new number 6 on to the spark plug lead.  I re-routed the cruise control cable to pass over the air cleaner.  I need to get the clip that holds it on to the air cleaner intake snorkel, anyone know the part number?

After my windscreen surround issue, I found a new RHS piece on eBay Germany at a bargain price.  The same seller had a new combination switch, probably ordered in error, and I picked that up from him too and a very reasonable price. 

So, there I was, disassembled the knee rolls, the air duct, unscrewed the combo switch, tied a string on to the plug section, and began to remove it.  Well, this was a labour of love, it took some jiggrey-pokery to get it up through the steering column housing.  I had to go easy here, as I didn't want to break the old Bakelite plug, which was probably fragile.  If the wires all spilled out it would be difficult to reassemble them in the correct position, and if the new switch was wrong, then I would be unable to use the car.

My next issue was the new switch is slightly different than the old: some of the wires were a different colour, there are also extra icons on the lever, and the place where the hooter is connected is different.  After careful perusal I got everything reconnected, and then tested for good measure.  Now my indicators will self cancel every time.  All is well, beside my washers, I can hear the motor running, but no water.  There must be a blockage somewhere in the system as the reservoir is full...

I sprayed my rusty exhaust tail pipes with some high temperature black exhaust paint.  I also lightly sprayed over the inner edges of the wheel arches with an aerosol of classic white 737 that I had made up to hide the rust a little.  Don't want the Germans tutting when they look at Mrs W's flanks...

My last job was to replace my front number plate, which was delaminating.  I had one run up quickly at Halfords, ugly as it is, I have installed it on the car.  I cleaned and polished the mounting plate, swapped the pan-head screws for some counter-sunk ones that hold the mounting plate to the plastic lugs that fit into the bumpers.

I do have a new full set of plates for Mrs W, made up with the original supplying dealer's name and near enough the same font for the letters.  The plates are almost identical to those on the car, which are still the originals!  I'll put these new plates on when I get the bodywork done.

Off on my wine run, more from the Moselle to follow.

Keep 116ing,
Gavin

P.S, Yes John, it cannot be installed with the screen in place.  I knew we were going to have to cut the new seal in any case when we did the body repairs, but it was annoying to have lost the one trim, and have the other mangled to bits...