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Garage => Test Drive => Topic started by: Squiggle Dog on 04 August 2010, 08:15 PM

Title: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 04 August 2010, 08:15 PM
I used to own a 1979 300SD that was my daily driver for 2 years. I got it for free on craigslist, neglected by the previous owner, already parted out, not running, missing the entire exhaust, no alternator, no grille, lights, bumper, valance, no fuses, no air cleaner, all seats were down on the springs, interior was full of water, etc.--and no title!

After a few trips to the wrecking yards, the dealer, and some online resources at a total cost of maybe $800USD I had a car that ran and drove like it was new. I was a regular on this forum at the time.

I customized the 300SD by installing Euro-spec headlights, a new Blaupunkt Bahamas CD player, and converting to manual windows. I also used clean-burning B99 biodiesel.

It was a truly great car. I only sold it because I had my heart set on a nice W111 fintail that I was going to install a turbo diesel engine in. I ended up only getting about $700USD for the 300SD after eBay and PayPal fees and the W111 deal fell through, leaving me without a car.

Here's a write-up I did about it for a contest: http://www.mercedessource.com/galleries/Lost%20and%20Found%20-%20Stories%20of%20Great%20Rescues/image?page=2

(http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=63807&d=1233352990) (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=63808&d=1233353535) (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=71566&d=1251599920) (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=71571&d=1251600179) (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=71267&d=1250885399) (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=71568&d=1251600016) (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=70132&d=1248404447) (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=71570&d=1251600130)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 04 August 2010, 08:37 PM
Since I needed a car (public transportation is expensive, slow, and scary in my area), I looked on craigslist for another diesel Mercedes. I found a 1968 W110 200D that was supposed to have a 80,000 original miles and 4,000 miles on a rebuilt engine, new clutch, new brakes, new tires, working air conditioning, and a tiny bit of rust on the rocker panels.

It ended up having an old-looking and leaking engine, was used as a daily commuter for over 10 years back in the 1980s, had pine cones and needles all over it, clutch problems, old brakes that failed completely, rotted bias-ply tires, lukewarm air conditioning, and large rust holes in the rocker panels and floor. I talked the owner down to $1,200.

It's been my daily driver for about 8 months now and I recently completed a 2,000 mile round trip from Washington to Utah and back ( http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=276086&page=4 ). I have gone through most of the mechanicals and want to replace the rocker panels, fix the floors, and touch-up the paint. Right now the fuel injectors are being rebuilt and the pump calibrated.

(http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=82097&d=1278022501) (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=82117&d=1278023010) (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=82104&d=1278022635) (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=82108&d=1278022766) (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=82110&d=1278022788)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 04 August 2010, 08:45 PM
I missed my old 300SD and wanted another like what I had before. I rode the train down to Eugene, Oregon to look at a 1980 300SD I had seen for sale on craigslist.

The funny thing is I made the exact same trip a week earlier to look at a 1979 DB404 Milan Brown 300SD with sunroof that looked identical to the one I used to own and looked like it was in mint condition in the pictures. The seller said the paint looked great just as it did in the pictures and that it had a rebuilt engine, new tires, and good weatherstripping.

I spent 6 hours riding the train and bus down to look at the car. When I saw it in person the lights were smashed and the bumper had the rubber peeled off of it. The owner said his wife backed into it but it also was side swiped on the driver side. The hood was tilted also.

The paint was orange peeled and bubbling off all over, almost every panel of the car seemed wavy, and the sunroof had caulking in it. The tires and wheels were mismatched, all of the trim seemed to be damaged, and the windshield was cracked. All of the rubber on the car was rotted off and stick-on weatherstripping tape was placed next to it. The rear tow eye looked like it was broken. The engine sounded nice and did appear to have been rebuilt, though.

The interior of the car was sun-baked and even the door panels were split and cracked. The CD player had been stolen and the top of the steering wheel was bare metal. I drove the car and the steering was very sloppy and the car had very little power. It turns out the pictures on craigslist were about 12 years old! The fuel tank was near empty also (nice).

The car was listed on craigslist for $1,500 and there was a $1,700 price tag in the window. We had agreed on $1,200 before I saw the car, but once seeing it in person I knew I wouldn't be willing to pay any real money for the car, though the engine itself was worth the price. I got back on the bus and train for another 6 hours home.

Before I looked at this car I saw an ad on craigslist for a 1980 300SD with sunroof for $700 or offer. I am colorblind and it looked like the dark Walnut Brown color I have been searching for. Right when I saw that it had a sunroof I thought to myself, "There is my car!" But, I already planned on looking at and buying the Milan Brown 1979 300SD since it was supposed to have a great paint job, no rust, and a rebuilt engine so I was a bit torn because though the Milan Brown one seemed great judging by the ad, I really wanted a Walnut Brown car. I think DB479 Walnut Brown was a special order color not usually offered for the W116 chassis so I know it was like looking for a needle in a haystack.

I emailed the seller and he said it was black, but at least that was my second choice because it's not a bad color, and if I wanted to change the color the hidden spots that were missed wouldn't stick out badly since Mercedes used a black primer anyway. The seller gave me the VIN number and when I looked it up it said that the car was originally DB479 Walnut Brown! I was so happy because if I had the car painted back to the original color I would only have to have the outer shell and jambs painted.

The bad thing about the car is that not only was it out of state, but it had a transmission leak that apparently would not allow the car to be driven and the seller wanted someone to haul it away, whereas the 1979 Milan Brown car was supposedly ready to drive, easy to get to by train, and was supposed to be a near perfect car.

I emailed the seller of the 1980 300SD again letting him know I wanted to see the car and planned on having it transported since it was not drivable, but he did not respond to further emails, so I gave up and went to look at the 1979 instead.

A few days after seeing the 1979 I saw an ad in the Eugene craigslist for a rust and dent-free 1980 300SD with sunroof. The price was $1,200 and the ad said the car ran and drove fine. I emailed the seller and asked what color the car was and he said black and that he didn't have the VIN number handy. He said he just drove the car over 600 miles from California and that it had new driveshafts, flex discs, differential, yoke, axle shafts, brake master cylinder, and an alignment.

I told him that I was a little short on cash but that I was seriously interested and could pay him $1,100 if he would meet me at the station in Eugene. He reluctantly accepted the offer and I made plans to make another trip to Eugene by train and bus to look at this one.

I was studying the pictures and noticed that the car in this ad had the same "characteristics" as the Walnut Brown-painted-black car that I had been really wanting but never heard back from the seller. I developed a theory that it was the same car and hoped this was true. Both cars had peeling black paint, a broken headlight corner, and a missing rear wheel cap.

When I saw the car in person it was indeed the same car! I was so happy. Not only was it the car I wanted, it was actually drivable now. The clear coat on the paint was peeling off, but the car appeared to be almost completely rust free and the body was very straight. I looked at the color code under the hood and it was indeed originally Walnut Brown, my first color choice, then repainted my second color choice.

I bought the car and drove off in it. The CD player didn't work even though I thought it was supposed to. The car seemed really sluggish and it took about 5 minutes for it to get up to 60 MPH. I noticed that the fuel tank was near empty so I pulled off of the freeway for fuel and then the car wouldn't go above 10 MPH. After I filled the tank I checked the fluids and the coolant reservoir was empty. I bought coolant it was a whole jug low! Then I noticed that several of the vacuum lines were disconnected so I reattached them.

The car instantly had more power and I drove most of the way home with no problems. The steering was great. When I got off of the freeway by my house the car starting being sluggish again and when accelerating from a stop it would crawl at 5 MPH for several seconds before slowly picking up speed. I got home okay and it went 250 miles on 3/8 of a tank!

I checked the fluids the next morning and they all looked fine but when I drove the car to work it was being slow and wouldn't shift gears so I turned around for home but decided to give it another try when I got to the house. It did shift, but much later than it should and was erratic. I had to two-foot the car until it warmed up because apparently it wasn't made with an idle screw? It felt strange driving home and when I got near the house the temperature gauge starting climbing.

I also noticed that the tires which were supposed to have 75% tread were bald and the chromed bundts are garbage because most of the chrome flaked off and all that is left is scarred and corroded metal. The interior is rough and missing the back seat. The driver door also doesn't shut well. It is being parked until I can sort through it completely. It has a good body and sunroof, was originally the color I wanted, it got me home to Tacoma, Washington from Eugene, Oregon and I am grateful for that, but it is going to need a lot of work before it's road worthy and looking good.

I know finding a Walnut Brown W116 300SD with a sunroof and good body somewhat locally at an affordable price is near impossible so I am still happy with my decision. I will just be driving the 200D for longer than I planned. I am really excited to fix it up and start customizing it (I will be adding Euro headlights, 6.9 bumpers, rear headrests, factory front and rear heated seats, 15" Centra wheels, chrome fender trim, convert the windows, sunroof, and heating system to manual, add a Blaupunkt Bahamas CD deck, two tone the interior in brown and tan, and eventually paint the car in its original Walnut Brown with Colorado Beige two tone).

(http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=83384&d=1280973605) (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=83385&d=1280973621) (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=83386&d=1280973730) (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=83387&d=1280973739)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 04 August 2010, 09:31 PM
Some time has gone by and work has been done to the 300SD.

I bought some 15" Centra rims to replace the junk corroded 14" bundts. I need a replacement gold star logo and lock screw. I found some usable tires by the dumpster at work that I had installed on them. The front tires are Goodyear Aquatreds which I think have a nice design. The rears are Toyo truck tires! The car has a much higher "donk" stance now.

I have also installed the 6.9 bumpers. I really like the clean look of them. I had been on the hunt for the elusive grille guard option for years but have given up. I did a sketch of what I wanted the car to look like with the grille guard set.

I have an almost perfect spare brown dashboard, console, and steering wheel to replace the worn and sun-damaged parts. I probably need better door panels and definitely need better seats. I want to two-tone the interior by using brown door panel inserts and center seat sections with my tan interior.

I plan on converting to manual windows, sunroof, and heat. I know someone who has a set of manual window regulators, manual sunroof parts from a W123 will fit, and I have at least 2 cars worth of complete manual W116 heater assemblies (with and without air conditioning). I already have an excellent zebrano wood heater faceplate and console piece without window switches. I would also like a zebrano shift knob.

I have factory W116 front and rear heated seat parts that are going in at some point. I also have rear headrests that will be going in. Euro headlights will be a must. I'd love to find fog light guards. I'm going to be installing a Blaupunkt Bahamas CD/MP3 player like my last 300SD had.

As you can see, the paint is bad. I want to repaint it to the original Walnut Brown with Colorado Beige from the middle door line down.

(http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=83388&d=1280974937) (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=83389&d=1280974942) (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=83390&d=1280974947) (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=83391&d=1280974954) (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=83392&d=1280975123)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 05 August 2010, 09:11 PM
Some good news today! I stopped at a wrecking yard to look for an injector line to custom make a pump timing tool out of. I didn't find any injector lines, but I did find some other stuff.

The first car I saw was a 1978 W116 450SE Euro model. Someone had already taken the right Euro headlight, left lens, and wiper arms. The wiper motors were still there. I would have taken the motors if the wiring harness wasn't such a time-consuming thing to remove in one piece. I might get them later.

It had manual windows, so I took all 4 regulators! The cranks were missing, unfortunately. It had a saffron velour interior. I took the velour door panel inserts but not the rest of the door panels because they were damaged. Someone had already taken the wooden console piece. I did take the wooden SLS adjustment switch housing--why, I don't know.

Someone had already taken the rear seat but the front velour seats were still there. The seats were in excellent condition structurally but the skins were torn. I took the headrests in case I ever get velour seats and want to add rear headrests to them.

I got the rubber pieces for the trunk so now I can install my trunk triangle.

I browsed the yard some more and saw a W107 450SLC that had nothing of interest in it. Then I saw a W123 240D that had all 4 window cranks in good condition in the saffron color to match my interior! It also had a very nice horn pad logo.

I also saw a W126 560SEL which had nothing of interest in it. Then, I saw a Euro-spec W123 that caught my eye. It had a manual sunroof so I removed the entire assembly to install in my W116. It was very difficult to squeeze out of the car, yet it fit in the trunk of my roommate's 1965 W111 220S perfectly!

The Euro W123 had headrests in the front and rear with really interesting burgundy checkered cloth interior. I took a look at the shift knob and noticed it had 5 forward gears! So, now I have the sought-after W123 5 speed manual transmission. Should I install it in my 300SD or sell it? Hmmm...

I'm now getting very excited about my 300SD.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Big_Richard on 06 August 2010, 07:53 AM
ummm, who did that pencil drawing of the w116? thats awesome!

I like those wheels  8)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 06 August 2010, 08:40 AM
Quote from: Major Tom 6.9 on 06 August 2010, 07:53 AM
ummm, who did that pencil drawing of the w116? thats awesome!

I like those wheels  8)

I did the pencil drawing. Thanks. I like the wheels, too, and hope I can find a replacement gold star or hubcap and a replacement lock screw.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Big_Richard on 06 August 2010, 09:11 AM
Are you employed to draft technical drawings like this or is it just a hobby?

Thats not the work of an amature it looks pretty professional to me  8)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 06 August 2010, 09:45 PM
Quote from: Major Tom 6.9 on 06 August 2010, 09:11 AM
Are you employed to draft technical drawings like this or is it just a hobby?

Thats not the work of an amature it looks pretty professional to me  8)

Thanks for the compliment. I used to draw a lot when I was in high school. Now that I've graduated I've had low-income jobs (I make $16,000USD a year as a furniture mover). I'd love to have a career in art, but have been so busy with work that I haven't had time lately to hone my skills. I haven't lost my talent, it just takes much longer than it used to. I want to practice more and then eventually work my way into commissioned art.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 06 August 2010, 09:50 PM
Here are some pics of the Getrag 717.400 5 speed (and some other finds). I also got the shift linkage and pedal assembly. Should I do it? Install it in my 300SD? A 5 cylinder turbo diesel with a 5 speed? It is going to have manual windows, sunroof, and heat, so a manual transmission wouldn't be out of line...

If I do install the 5 speed in my 300SD, I will need a 617 diesel flywheel and maybe a W116 pedal set.

(http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=83474&d=1281148447) (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=83475&d=1281148456) (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=83476&d=1281148463) (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=83477&d=1281148472) (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=83478&d=1281148479) (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=83479&d=1281148511) (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=83480&d=1281148519)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Big_Richard on 06 August 2010, 10:03 PM
a 5 speed w116 would be absolutely awesome, i don't know what your waiting for, id do it no questions asked!  :o
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 06 August 2010, 10:13 PM
Quote from: Major Tom 6.9 on 06 August 2010, 10:03 PM
a 5 speed w116 would be absolutely awesome, i don't know what your waiting for, id do it no questions asked!  :o

True, and I think I got a good deal on the transmission. ;) The automatic in there now takes over 5 minutes of running before it will move the car and it shifts late until it warms up. There's another excuse to do the swap. ;D I bet it would be the only 5 speed 300SD in the world.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Yesmar on 07 August 2010, 02:41 AM
i like it man, deff. do the 5speed. 

Stick with drawing. i was going to take 1 year off high school before i went to college well somehow i got sucked into a cycle working at hotels and here i am 5 years later just barley covering my monthly bills, and i finally got so sick of it that im starting to take classes at my local community college this coming semester... its never a good time to go back to school so you might as well just do it now.

Anyway. i really like the idea of a manual turbo diesel w116. And i think your grill guard is going to be very unique. Good luck keep us posted!
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Big_Richard on 07 August 2010, 03:31 AM
Quote from: Yesmar on 07 August 2010, 02:41 AM


And i think your grill guard is going to be very unique. Good luck keep us posted!


It's not that unique, its actually a real option that was available, ive seen them in the flesh before  8)

They certainly turn those US bumpers in to serious business, telling anyone in front to GTF out of the way  8)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Big_Richard on 07 August 2010, 03:38 AM
one of these days im going to purchase a dime store 300SD and have it shipped to australia, rebuild the drive train and transplant everything into a RHD 280S chassis.
Then I'll have Australias only 300SD and in RHD!   8)

What you guys take for granted over there are just not even available here, sure, we can buy 450's for $500 but who cares, i want a 300SD  8)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 07 August 2010, 10:21 AM
Quote from: Major Tom 6.9 on 07 August 2010, 03:38 AM
one of these days im going to purchase a dime store 300SD and have it shipped to australia, rebuild the drive train and transplant everything into a RHD 280S chassis.
Then I'll have Australias only 300SD and in RHD!   8)

What you guys take for granted over there are just not even available here, sure, we can buy 450's for $500 but who cares, i want a 300SD  8)

The 1979 300SD I had only sold for $911USD on eBay, which translates to about $700 after eBay and PayPal fees. You should be able to find one. That would be an awesome car, a right hand drive 300SD. The 300SDs have plenty of power, long engine life, great fuel mileage, and the ability to run on biodiesel.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Big_Richard on 07 August 2010, 06:26 PM
Licensing left hand drive vehicles
Australian residents

If you are a resident of Australia and you import a left hand drive vehicle manufactured up to 15 years ago, you may need to convert the vehicle to right hand drive before it can be licensed.

However if your left hand drive vehicle is less than 4.5 tonne, and was manufactured more than 15 years ago, it may be possible to license it without the need for a right hand drive conversion. It must however be intended for personal use only.

HMMMMMMMMMmmmmmmmmmmmm, It looks like i wouldnt even need to do the transplant!

I know what my next toy is going to be  8)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 07 August 2010, 10:14 PM
Quote from: Major Tom 6.9 on 07 August 2010, 06:26 PM
Licensing left hand drive vehicles
Australian residents

If you are a resident of Australia and you import a left hand drive vehicle manufactured up to 15 years ago, you may need to convert the vehicle to right hand drive before it can be licensed.

However if your left hand drive vehicle is less than 4.5 tonne, and was manufactured more than 15 years ago, it may be possible to license it without the need for a right hand drive conversion. It must however be intended for personal use only.

HMMMMMMMMMmmmmmmmmmmmm, It looks like i wouldnt even need to do the transplant!

I know what my next toy is going to be  8)

Go for it! As we all know, the W116 is the most comfortable and pleasant to drive car ever built. ;) Having one that runs forever, gets great fuel mileage, and still has ample power makes it even better.

By the way, I now have the 717 bolted up to the 617, or the 5 speed transmission bolted to the 5 cylinder engine. It fits perfectly! I just need a 300D flywheel.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Big_Richard on 07 August 2010, 10:31 PM
Please take pictures and post them on the forum ;)


We like to see pictures every step of the way.

Maybe, when im ready you can assist me in the purchase of a 300SD for shipment to Australia, but i'm not ready yet ;)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: s class on 08 August 2010, 12:54 AM
Dude, I see in your haul there you got a Becker Vekerskurier VK5 control knob (the black rotary knob on the piece of zebrano).  Did that come out of a W123 or a W116?  I am trying to reinstall said equipment in my red 6.9, as it originally had this stuff.  I've got all the equipment from a W123 CE in Germany, but the woodwork differs slightly between W116 and W123. 
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 08 August 2010, 11:53 AM
The control knob housing is from a 1978 450SE W116.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 30 August 2010, 04:26 PM
During the weekend I bought a set of Euro lights locally. They are in good condition other than a butchered and spliced wiring harness which I will fix later on.

I won that grille and hood ornament for $1 on eBay! I installed headrests in the $12 Pull-A-Part rear seat. The carpeting beneath the rear window is from an early W116 when they used the darker color carpet and I think it looks nicer than a sun-bleached light tan colored one the car would have had.

I drove the car around the block and it was SO nice driving (other than having to wait 5 minutes before the car would move and then another 5 minutes until the transmission would shift into third gear).

I really like these 6.9 bumpers. Next on my list is to replace the rubber flex discs and convert the power windows to manual. I can't wait until I can afford to license and drive it!

(http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=84394&d=1283202819)(http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=84395&d=1283202827)(http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=84396&d=1283202834)(http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=84397&d=1283202840)(http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=84398&d=1283202849)(http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=84399&d=1283203074)(http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=84400&d=1283203080)(http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=84401&d=1283203085)
(http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=84402&d=1283203092)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: MB_Mike on 30 August 2010, 05:48 PM
Squigg, I really admire your ability to do these cars on such a tight budget. It shows so much more fortitude than some buying their way into high cost restos or big dollar new cars. Congrats on the finds and big congrats on the 5-speed! I can't even pull 5 steel wheels off a 116 at the jy without looking like an idiot and you walk out with a manual trans and all the extra bits!!

Keep up the awesome work and keep posting!
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 31 August 2010, 04:26 PM
It's nice to hear feedback from others. I'm plugging away a little at a time.

The part that scares me the most is the paint job. I plan on stripping the car and doing as much prep work as I can when the time comes, but even then it will probably cost over $2,000 to have it sprayed well enough to not look like a cheap repaint. I'm not sure how I am going to come up with that kind of money.

When the time comes I am going to have it painted (or spray it myself in a booth) in single stage paint so I don't have peeling clearcoat to worry about. It will be painted back to the original color of Walnut Brown with added Colorado Beige from the middle of the doors down and matching beige pinstriping on the brown paint. The interior will be two tone tan with brown accents to match. I wonder if World Upholstery would make a new set of skins in two-tone...
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Martin 280s on 02 September 2010, 05:59 AM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 06 August 2010, 10:13 PM
Quote from: Major Tom 6.9 on 06 August 2010, 10:03 PM
a 5 speed w116 would be absolutely awesome, i don't know what your waiting for, id do it no questions asked!  :o

True, and I think I got a good deal on the transmission. ;) The automatic in there now takes over 5 minutes of running before it will move the car and it shifts late until it warms up. There's another excuse to do the swap. ;D I bet it would be the only 5 speed 300SD in the world.

Check the ratios in the gearbox. From what I understand the 5-speed offers no real benefit over the 4-speed and the 5th gear is the same. BTW, won't you have to change the diff too?
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 02 September 2010, 09:15 AM
Quote from: Martin 280s on 02 September 2010, 05:59 AM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 06 August 2010, 10:13 PM
Quote from: Major Tom 6.9 on 06 August 2010, 10:03 PM
a 5 speed w116 would be absolutely awesome, i don't know what your waiting for, id do it no questions asked!  :o

True, and I think I got a good deal on the transmission. ;) The automatic in there now takes over 5 minutes of running before it will move the car and it shifts late until it warms up. There's another excuse to do the swap. ;D I bet it would be the only 5 speed 300SD in the world.

Check the ratios in the gearbox. From what I understand the 5-speed offers no real benefit over the 4-speed and the 5th gear is the same. BTW, won't you have to change the diff too?

1st=3.82 2nd=2.20 3rd=1.40 4th=1.00 5th=0.81 R=3.71 5th is an overdrive gear. I don't know if I will need to change the rear axle or not.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 06 September 2010, 10:53 PM
I got a set of used flex discs and one of them was good enough to replace the really bad one at the differential. The one at the transmission looks okay for now, but I'll want to get new ones when I can afford it.

I installed one of the manual window regulators in the driver door. The glass was having a very hard time moving in the tracks, which puzzled me. This must be why the electric regulator shattered. I ended up discovering that the aluminum post that the window slides on was not only bowed, but bent sideways! After replacing the post the window moved freely. I also installed one of the door glass pieces that I have with the Blaupunkt coded decal (I will be installing a Blaupunkt Bahamas CD player, so it will coordinate). I installed a center console wood that was not made with window switches since I won't need them anymore.

You can see that the front seats are trashed. The springs are flattened and the skins are torn. It is not at all comfortable. Speaking of seats, I will be installing front and rear heated seat parts. I installed the B-pillars that have the pods with the switches on them. The switches have a low and high heat setting.

The switches for the front seats are meant to be mounted in the console wood, so this means I will need to very carefully cut some holes in it. Looking at the back of the console wood I can see one square hole in the plastic backing through which I can see where the hole would be punched out for the seat heater switch to go. I do not see one on the other side, but maybe there is a "punch-out" in the wood behind the plastic backing. Looking at the console piece the seat heater switches came from, it appears the holes were made by drilling a hole at each corner then "connecting the dots" by cutting between them and making a square. I will be very, very nervous to make the holes for the seat heater switches!

I know that the W126 and later sedans use relay modules for the seat heaters and I am trying to figure out if the W116 uses them or if the switches do everything. I think I have all of the parts I need for the conversion. The heat pads I've got are actually from a W126 and instead of being square are separate strips that are supposed to be fit in the pleated part of the seat, between the padding strips and the leather/vinyl skin itself.

(http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=84587&d=1283826064)(http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=84588&d=1283826075)(http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=84589&d=1283826083)(http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=84590&d=1283826097)(http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=84591&d=1283826105)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 06 September 2010, 10:57 PM
I got the back seat at Pull-A-Part for $12 to replace the blue W123 seat that was in it. I added the headrests. It looks like someone had it reupholstered in generic (but matching) vinyl while leaving the leather armrest section untouched. It's very interesting.

I added a third brake light but it's not been wired or even screwed in yet.

I took apart the front seat and replaced the lower pan, springs, and pads that I got for a few dollars at Pull-A-Part. They looked like they were brand new! I had a spare bottom seat skin that was in better shape than what the car came with.

I installed the W126 seat heaters in the seat. They didn't fit like they are meant to because the heat pads have seven strips and my seat has 6 pleats, but I got them to lay flat and they cover about the same area. When I have the money to get new seat skins I'll probably buy new heat pads.

I replaced the section of foam in the seat back where it was worn and then cut the edges of the torn vinyl skin a bit neater. I stuck another piece of vinyl behind it and will probably use a soldering iron to melt the edges together to join the patched piece to the skin itself. I also replaced the panel that holds the netting.

I put the seat back in the car and sat in it to find that my head was touching the roof! I adjusted the seat so it was lower and it's about right. The seat is now very comfortable and very firm. I now know what a brand new W116 seat feels like. I will do the same thing to the passenger seat. I plan on this getting me by until I can have new seat skins made for all seats.

(http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=84594&d=1283826984)(http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=84595&d=1283826991)(http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=84596&d=1283826997)(http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=84597&d=1283827002)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Necrosis on 07 September 2010, 10:51 AM
It always seems like w116 interiors more often then not stay nice and decent...
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Big_Richard on 07 September 2010, 06:16 PM
That is one unique looking back seat!

I cant help but feel there would be zero friction offered, and the first corner you took with passengers in the rear with no seatbelts on, theyd be sliding all over the place  8)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Necrosis on 07 September 2010, 09:45 PM
Quote from: Major Tom 6.9 on 07 September 2010, 06:16 PM
That is one unique looking back seat!

I cant help but feel there would be zero friction offered, and the first corner you took with passengers in the rear with no seatbelts on, theyd be sliding all over the place  8)

hahaha  ;D
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 07 September 2010, 10:16 PM
Quote from: Major Tom 6.9 on 07 September 2010, 06:16 PM
That is one unique looking back seat!

I cant help but feel there would be zero friction offered, and the first corner you took with passengers in the rear with no seatbelts on, theyd be sliding all over the place  8)

It's very squishy, too. But, the price was right at $12 and it was better than the blue W123 seat that was back there. Pull-A-Part thought it was a bench seat out of a truck and were about to charge me accordingly. Eventually I want to replace the entire seat (they used nails to attach the skins to the pans) and have new skins made, but this will get me by until then. At least I didn't have to feel bad about cutting holes in the upholstery to install the headrests and grommets!
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 19 September 2010, 10:40 AM
I've given a lot of thought to this, but I don't think I will be installing the 5 speed into my 300SD. Dare I say it, I don't like manual transmissions. Having to use a clutch, shift, remember what gear I'm in, realizing it's not in gear when the light turns green, trying to force it into a lower gear when slowing down, etc. gets to be annoying.

One of the things I like about the 300SD is never having to use a clutch or shift except for into reverse or park. It's very relaxing. Also, finding the proper flywheel and having it match balanced, buying a clutch kit, installing a different pedal set, lengthening propeller shafts, and maybe even having to change out the differential doesn't seem to be worth it for me.

So, I will probably be selling the 5 speed assembly. I know there are a lot of people that want it and I have one person in line for it already. Though I don't like to price gouge, in this instance I think I will probably put it on eBay if the first person in line doesn't but it and try to get top dollar for it. I am always broke and usually sell stuff way too cheaply. Hopefully I can make up for it by selling the 5 speed stuff. Maybe I'll be able to get close to being able to have my car repainted.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 20 September 2010, 10:08 PM
I sold the 5 speed. I just like the automatic transmission too much and it would be too much of a pain to swap it (though I am going to be going through with converting the climate control to manual, which is probably harder, but less expensive). Now I have a little money so I can start saving for a good paint job for my 300SD.

I got the 300SD registered so I am going to start driving it next week. My 200D is going to be parked so I can remove the engine and replace all of the oil seals. I may need to replace the valve seals, too.

I am going to replace the brake hoses right away since they are original. I also plan on doing an oil change and replacing the alternator belts. Then I am going to try to fix the transmission by replacing the cooler hoses, replacing the modulator, installing new spring kits, changing the filter, replacing the pan gaskets, installing fresh fluid, and adding Trans-X. If all of that doesn't fix the transmission then I'll have to replace it with a spare that I've got in the garage.

The problem that the transmission has is that the engine has to run for about 5 minutes before the car will move. Then it has to run another 5 or 10 minutes before it will shift into 3rd gear. After that it works all day and the shifts are very smooth and hardly noticeable.

Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 08 October 2010, 07:08 PM
I added Trans-X to the transmission which has helped greatly in the 3 weeks I have been driving the car. It only has to warm up now for about 2 minutes before I drive if the engine was cold. It is shifting fine, too. The transmission seems to function better every week.

The 15" Centra wheels I had were too big and heavy (especially with the truck tires on them). The car was slow at starts and the speedometer was almost 10 MPH off at 60 MPH. At 7 inches wide the rims blocked access to the brake bleeder screws. Because of these things and the fact that I haven't been able to find any replacement parts for these wheels, I sold them.

I bought a set of four 14X6" bundt wheels and already had a spare bundt wheel in the trunk. I looked all over to find proper size 185/80R14 tires because I like skinny tires. They are easier to steer and give the car less rolling resistance, which equals better fuel mileage. They also get better traction in snow and inclement weather.

185/80R14 tires were basically impossible to find, new or used. So, I decided that I would be willing to use 195/75R14 tires which have the same sidewall height and are not noticeably wider. Even the 195/75R14 size was nearly impossible to find. The cheapest place I could find new tires quoted me $450 for Kelly Explorer Plus blackwalls or $505 for white sidewalls.

I really, really wanted wide whitewalls, but finding them in the size I needed wasn't going to happen. I know that tires with white letters or sidewalls can be shaved to make a wide whitewall but I'm not sure if I'm brave enough to do that and paying someone else to do it would be costly and who knows how well they would turn out. They sell Port-A-Walls which attach to the side but they don't work well with radial tires. Painting a whitewall would probably look tacky.

Not really wanting to spend $500 on new tires I looked around for used ones. I went to several used tire shops (most of them were holes in the wall with employees who didn't speak English well, if at all) and most of them told me they didn't have any in that size. Some of them had a few mismatched, bald, and rotted ones that they wanted about $100 for. I passed.

One of the last shops I passed had a few pair in the 195/75R14 size, so I would have a 2 matching pair, making 4, plus a spare, for $150 mounted and balanced. I almost bought them because they were in decent shape and looked like the old 1970s style tires. But I decided to look at one last place.

The last place I checked was a called The Used Tire Outlet. I told the lady there what size I needed and she said "Yeah, I've got about 200 of them. Let's take a look at what we have." Out back she had several matched sets of tires. I saw a set that I really liked. They were Dean Alpha IV all-season tires with white sidewalls. There were about 20 of them! I picked out the best 5 so I would have a rotatable spare. I had them mounted and balanced with new valve stems for $282.55.

I have to say that I am very happy with the tires. They have almost new tread on them and all 5 are the same make and model. Made in the USA. I think the tread on them looks very much like the old 1970s tires. I wanted wide whitewalls but I still like the white sidewalls. They have a slightly tanned patina to them as well.

I need to get some center caps, I know.

(http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=85611&d=1286581965)(http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=85612&d=1286581972)(http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=85613&d=1286581978)(http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=85614&d=1286581985)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: 200 hp on 10 October 2010, 02:57 AM
Looking good! I didn't know until now that white wall tires suit these cars very well. I like how they seem to match the chrome surrounds on the windows.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 10 October 2010, 11:52 AM
Quote from: 200 hp on 10 October 2010, 02:57 AM
Looking good! I didn't know until now that white wall tires suit these cars very well. I like how they seem to match the chrome surrounds on the windows.

Thanks!
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: MB_Mike on 10 October 2010, 01:34 PM
Squiggle, it looks like you have replacement wiper blades (black vs aluminum). If I have an extra set of original ones would you like them? Free of charge. Not totally self-less, I want to say that I contributed to a worthy 116 enthusiast's project.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 11 October 2010, 12:10 AM
Quote from: MB_Mike on 10 October 2010, 01:34 PM
Squiggle, it looks like you have replacement wiper blades (black vs aluminum). If I have an extra set of original ones would you like them? Free of charge. Not totally self-less, I want to say that I contributed to a worthy 116 enthusiast's project.

The replacement blades are Bosch and are really neat and aerodynamic. But, they don't curve like the factory ones would at the far end of the windshield. I think I might have a set of original blades stashed away, but I'm not sure. It would be nice to have an original set if I end up not having any. Thanks for the offer. I'll let you know if I find some in my parts stash or not.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 29 October 2010, 10:42 PM
I got rid of the sun-damaged steering wheel that was torn and had holes in it, and replaced it with a steering wheel that came from another 1980 300SD that someone was parting out. That car looked like it had hardly been used and was in near mint condition, even the original paint! The seller only wanted the engine to put in an off-road project vehicle. I also removed the nearly mint condition dashboard and console to install in mine.

Since the steering wheel has hardly any wear and is in near mint condition (other than some black marks on the horn pad) I bought a steering wheel cover to protect it from getting worn or sun-damaged. It was my first time installing one of these. This is the Superior 58-0470B Sport Grip Truckline cover made for 16"-18" steering wheels. It wasn't easy and I didn't like the way the instructions showed to tie the ends of the lace, so I improvised my own way, which appears to be seamless.

(http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=86211&d=1288409472)

I also installed a new zebrano shift knob. I tried to order one but everywhere I checked said they were all a few months out on backorder. Then an NOS German-made knob came up for sale on eBay for less than the new ones. I think it may be better quality than the ones currently made. I have plans to purchase a zebrano wood instrument cluster when I have the money.

The 1994 Kenwood CD player had quit playing CDs and my antenna is broken. I installed a Blaupunkt Bahamas CD/MP3 player, which is what I have in my 1968 200D. I think it suits the car very nicely and it is a very user-friendly unit. It is also a Bosch product and matches the factory Blaupunkt anti-theft warning decals on the windows. When I was at Pull-A-Part I scored a brand new set of Pioneer speakers out of a 1980 300SD that fit perfectly in the dashboard! They have great sound as well. My car had deteriorated JBL speakers up front. My sound system is great other than I need proper fitting rear speakers.

(http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=86212&d=1288409490)(http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=86213&d=1288409497)

I purchased an early 1980s Sony Walkman WM-10 for $200 that was advertised as working. It arrived in non-working condition but I will be getting a partial refund and I get to keep the unit. I had planned on putting it in the center console and using the auxiliary adapter to have period-correct tape cassette-playing capabilities. That same day I found a working 1980s Sony WM-4 for $2 at the thrift store, so that was some comfort. I am going to use it in the center console while I look for someone who can repair the WM-10.

(http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=86214&d=1288409511)(http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=86215&d=1288409521)

I went to Pull-A-Part and saw a W116 behind the fence. I came back a couple days later and they were just setting it down in the yard (a 1980 300SD, no hood ornament--they must remove them before putting them out, along with the fog lights, first aid kit, and fuses). It had 5 great bundt wheels with good tires on them, but there was a crowd of people wanting to buy the wheels so they could pull the tires off of them and junk the wheels. Once they saw I was interested in them they backed off but more people would keep coming by and asking if I wanted the wheels. After I got them stacked up I noticed that the forklift had bent and gouged the insides of the wheels and cut the sidewalls of the tires. >:(

I got the oil cooler, air cleaner assembly with bracket, 5 injectors that look rebuilt, battery tray, fuse box cover with fuse diagram, front rotors, instrument cluster, wooden ash tray, new Pioneer front speakers, rear speaker covers, one door seal, grille, upper bumpers, wheel center caps, German Osram bulbs, and some other pieces.

I like chrome wheel arch trim so I purchased the TFP clip-type fender trim. It came without clips, had scratches, and wasn't close to fitting so I returned it. I later bought a set of chrome-plated brass fender trim that is older stock but made in Taiwan. It had a great finish but was nowhere near close to fitting and I actually kinked one of the pieces trying to fit it. I looked around for German Autotrim Accessories brand fender trim but it seems to no longer be available. I got sick of looking for quality fender trim so I just bought a set of NOS 1980 stock German-made trim (yes, the sets that go for $490 plus shipping on eBay). I am waiting for it to arrive and will install it soon.

Also, I plan on purchasing some tobacco brown interior parts soon to two-tone my bamboo interior. I am going to use the brown door panel inserts, center seat sections, piping, seat net panels, headrest sections, and under rear windshield carpeting. I need to locate some bamboo seat skins that are in better condition than mine since the outer sections of my seats have tears and sunburn. I also need a rust-free rear seat with good padding. Mine is rusty and was reupholstered using nails to hold the skins in place! But, it was a $12 seat at Pull-A-Part and looks better than the blue W123 seat that was in there.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: MB_Mike on 30 October 2010, 06:02 AM
Seems that your project is really coming along. Nice shift knob! I just added one to my car and really enjoy it. This seems to be a labor of love and I cant wait to see the finished project.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 05 November 2010, 06:53 PM
I think I have a solution for installing the front seat heater switches without putting holes in the console wood. I think the switch housing above the heater control area would be a good place for them.

My car has 4 switches in this area; dome light, power antenna, rear window defroster, and sunroof. My CD player has a built-in antenna switch so I won't need the factory switch anymore. I am going to convert the sunroof to manual, so I won't need that switch, either.

I want to get a switch housing piece with only the two center switch holes punched out, one for the dome light switch and one for the rear window defroster. Then I would place a seat heater switch on each end where the other switches would go (the holes would be cut only large enough for the seat heater switches). Apparently the switch housings can be bought new for $40. I wonder if they have any of the switch blanks punched out. It would be worth the money if they don't.

(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TNSXz-NVsII/AAAAAAAABnU/5V2hKTFNGcs/s800/switchhousing.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 05 November 2010, 06:57 PM
I purchased chrome fender trim for the 300SD. I first bought a set of the clip-type stainless steel ones made by TFP so I wouldn't have to drill holes. It came without the clips and the seller said that they do not include the clips because they don't work and to use screws instead. Besides this, the trim did not fit properly and was too narrow. So, I returned it.

I read that the fender trim that was available when the cars were new was made of chrome plated brass, as opposed to the stainless steel trim that is available today. The advantage of the brass trim is that it's more scratch resistant than stainless, has a better finish, can be replated, and is easier to fit.

There was a German company called Autotrim Accessories that made quality trim and used to be available from online parts stores, but apparently their products are no longer available. Their boxes read "Radlauf-Schutzzierleisten".

I found a set of trim on eBay that looked like 1990s stock and was chrome plated brass. I ordered it and it has a nice finish. It's made in Taiwan. I went to fit the trim and it didn't look close to fitting. I tried to reshape one piece and it kinked a little so I gave up and decided that if I was going to put holes in my fenders that it would be for trim that fit well and would be worth restoring at a later date if necessary.

I saw another set on eBay that was new old stock German-made stock from 1980, the same year my 300SD was made. The price was $490 plus shipping. I found it hard to justify paying that much money for fender trim, but then again, I was not successful in finding good German-made trim anywhere else. The seller made a deal with me and soon the NOS German W116 wheel arch trim was mine.

Upon inspecting the NOS trim I could see that it was very sturdy and well-shaped. Below I am going to compare the Taiwanese trim (top) to the original German trim (bottom):
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TNR9FL-Hv0I/AAAAAAAABj8/yXtlHj1mqG0/s800/w116ft.jpg)

The Taiwanese screws are on the left, and the German ones on the right are smaller:
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TNR9RY70IeI/AAAAAAAABkM/Pjz6IXDZPN0/s800/w116ft2.jpg)

Taiwan rubber molding on the left, German molding on the right. Note the extra sealing ribs:
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TNR9VkFx-UI/AAAAAAAABkQ/VvP3KTusD8k/s800/w116ft3.jpg)

The German front fender trim (top) follows the curve down the fender while the Taiwanese trim stops at the bumper line:
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TNR9aZJhB7I/AAAAAAAABkU/4IzRobY3-ew/s800/w116ft4.jpg)

The German trim (upper) has a crease at the body line, while the Taiwanese trim cheats by using a larger cutout. Though, a larger cutout does make fitting the body molding easier:
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TNR9cdk55lI/AAAAAAAABkY/db6IlfVs1NM/s800/w116ft5.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 05 November 2010, 06:59 PM
Both trims end about the same in the rocker panel area:
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TNSAC_YLXtI/AAAAAAAABkg/3sTuX0Yd2GU/s800/w116ft6.jpg)

The two brands of trim use different mounting hole locations. The German brand (upper) uses 4 holes while the Taiwanese brand has a 5th hole located in the center of the trim, which in my opinion doesn't help on this model. You can see on the lower trim how I kinked it trying to get it to fit in the fender before giving up:
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TNSAE4fMA-I/AAAAAAAABkk/oTmcWuK-8FM/s800/w116ft7.jpg)

The German trim (lower) is a little wider than other trim:
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TNSAGWAvsMI/AAAAAAAABko/NKBrt5IUzCk/s800/w116ft8.jpg)

Comparison between the German (upper) and Taiwanese labels:
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TNSAIepTugI/AAAAAAAABks/9ocCrTQWyxE/s800/w116ft9.jpg)

The German rear fender trim (lower) has a crease that matches the body line while the other brand does not:
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TNSBuMNKT8I/AAAAAAAABk0/gzQM4oN1G64/s800/w116ft10.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 05 November 2010, 07:02 PM
German trim has body line crease, other brand does not:
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TNSCRmEYszI/AAAAAAAABk4/65CRNfWO0t8/s800/w116ft11.jpg)

German trim on bottom is a little wider:
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TNSCT8nHzQI/AAAAAAAABk8/FbHdZz50j8g/s800/w116ft12.jpg)

Here is the Taiwanese trim being fitted to the 300SD. The center section of the trim sticks out too far and is hard to push up against the body:
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TNSCVq_ndxI/AAAAAAAABlA/P4_hRvFmWw0/s800/w116ft13.jpg)

The bottom edge of the Taiwanese trim leaves a gap between it and the fender:
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TNSCXCLgolI/AAAAAAAABlE/fD7QFxtgF28/s800/w116ft14.jpg)

The center of the German trim fits snugly up against the fender:
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TNSCYEnToBI/AAAAAAAABlI/zSa96cMSy7A/s800/w116ft15.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 05 November 2010, 07:05 PM
The bottom lip of the German trim doesn't leave a gap (I knew something was up with that other brand):
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TNSCZQWU6TI/AAAAAAAABlM/ixpz71fsQLw/s800/w116ft16.jpg)

To hold the trim in place I used slide clamps with a bicycle tube in between them and the fender to protect the finish. This allowed me to fine-tune the fitment of the trim so the body creases matched:
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TNSENtrsojI/AAAAAAAABlU/pSsQGy3T1as/s800/w116ft17.jpg)

Once the trim section was where I wanted it to be I would drill a small pilot hole followed by a bit the same size as the diameter of the screws (not including threads). I put tape around the holes before drilling to protect the finish in case I slipped. I would place the first screw in the hole closest to the area where the body lines were located. Then I would work from the center alternating outward.

The rear fenders gave me trouble because the sheet metal was double thick. The screws would bend and break in the holes. I put one screw in a vise grip and attempted to thread the holes but all it did was strip out the screw. I discovered that they don't make a tap in this size and thread, or even a self-tapping screw for that matter unless I went up a size. I wasn't excited about making the pre-drilled holes in the trim bigger and making the holes in the body larger.

I found that the screws used to hold in the VIN plates are the same thread pitch and are a hardened metal with sharp threads. They worked excellent in cutting threads in the body. After using those VIN plate screws to cut threads the stainless fender trim screws went in without trouble:
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TNSEO6ASNFI/AAAAAAAABlY/XhG_FEaJ0kg/s800/w116ft18.jpg)

Here's the Taiwanese right side front trim. Same fitting problem:
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TNSEQCsZbEI/AAAAAAAABlc/uDldImCA6rw/s800/w116ft19.jpg)

This side has a gap, too:
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TNSERRzR9lI/AAAAAAAABlg/hQSqlCtlHqo/s800/w116ft20.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 05 November 2010, 07:07 PM
And the German one fits right up against the lip. You can tell they had some good engineers designing this trim:
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TNSESsuwd8I/AAAAAAAABlk/ALyT4MaXtJk/s800/w116ft21.jpg)

The Taiwanese rear fender trim fits rather well compared to the fronts. I don't think it would give much installation trouble:
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TNSET_fxSmI/AAAAAAAABlo/L5ixMZu_lEA/s800/w116ft22.jpg)

The German rear trim fits fine. The extra crease at the rear body line is a nice touch:
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TNSEVOOhKPI/AAAAAAAABls/cf62IJpwjmc/s800/w116ft23.jpg)

Once I had the trim screwed into place I removed it and cleaned and waxed the area where it was placed. I waxed the trim and applied the rubber molding. I left some excess material on the ends where the body molding fits in case it shrinks with age. I used 303 Aerospace Protectant on the molding to help preserve it. The rubber fit fine on the trim without adhesive though I had to use plastic pry bars to push it back in place while fitting the trim:
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TNSPeskHz2I/AAAAAAAABl8/twC068zUxgw/s800/w116ft31.jpg)

The slider clamps and bicycle tubes were used again to hold the trim for reinstallation and to line up the screw holes. I started with the screw nearest the body crease, then from the outside screws alternating inward. I used anti-seize paste on the threads to help prevent against rust.

I'm very happy with the way the German trim fit. There are no gaps and it is a perfect fit. I think that the Taiwanese trim could be made to fit fine. The kink in the one trim piece could be worked out and it's not in a place that is noticeable. Still, I'm glad I spent the money on the NOS German trim. Incidentally, I plan on selling the Taiwanese trim if anyone is interested in it.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 05 November 2010, 07:09 PM
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TNSQ9IjddsI/AAAAAAAABmE/tznbmTF1LuA/s800/w116ft28.jpg)(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TNSQ-zvyCzI/AAAAAAAABmI/jodovj6URyU/s800/w116ft29.jpg)(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TNSRMVnQopI/AAAAAAAABmM/FZJBT-0Dvdw/s800/w116ft30.jpg)(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TNSRNnwQapI/AAAAAAAABmQ/6I95mlF3V7g/s800/w116ft32.jpg)(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TNSRRFJSV3I/AAAAAAAABmU/G4Qcs4wMVP0/s800/w116ft33.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 05 November 2010, 07:10 PM
I love the look of the chrome fender trim and think that it completes the look of the car. I am glad I got the hole drilling out of the way before the new paint job (I'm not sure when that is going to be).

(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TNSSEXU7rpI/AAAAAAAABmc/pnby5JYyjXI/s800/1980300sd36.jpg)(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TNSSGcdRoYI/AAAAAAAABmg/8XDRXQ_DmIY/s800/1980300sd37.jpg)(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TNSSH_LBkiI/AAAAAAAABmo/G8FdIkEuBJY/s800/1980300sd38.jpg)(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TNSSJRxa3VI/AAAAAAAABms/ICJZIPpbO7Y/s800/1980300sd39.jpg)(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TNSSK4v6tYI/AAAAAAAABmw/-n4aQHV_lzU/s800/1980300sd40.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: vlv8vic on 05 November 2010, 07:36 PM
Love it, they look great.  I can't believe the number of differences in the two brands.  I hate it when that old adage is correct... "You get what you pay for"....
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: oscar on 06 November 2010, 05:30 AM
Awsome review squiggle! ;)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: ulysees on 28 November 2010, 03:22 AM
You're compleatly MADD!!!!   but, i'm glad that you are...   (-:

Clearly you're a mechanic and a blossoming writer too i might add,  your drawing skills are obvious as well.

Definitely go for the all manual 116 SD.

        do the 123 window regulators fit a 116??

keep us all posted   ..  ulysees   
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 28 November 2010, 12:47 PM
Thank you for the compliments. I am completely self-taught when it comes to working on cars. I never did quite make enough money to pay someone else to work on them. I also learned to not trust mechanics after a few dishonest shops and one of them charging me $600 labor to replace a brake master cylinder in a 1955 Pontiac because "they had to ship it to several different states because only a few shops in the world still exist that know how to rebuild master cylinders". I later found out that this a $30 part common to many different GM models. The same shop later charged me $80 to replace the spark plugs on the same car! This was back when I was in high school and making $6 an hour part time.

W116 window regulators are the only ones that work in the W116. The auto parts stores show that they carry manual window regulators to fit the 1973-1980 W116, but they don't fit and are in fact W123 regulators. Another reason I stopped buying parts at the auto parts stores. They are much more expensive than buying directly from Mercedes-Benz, are an inferior product, and most of the time their books are wrong! The parts stores seem to think that all parts that fit a W123 or any 300 series will fit the W116.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 11 December 2010, 09:02 PM
I bought some brown interior parts from bgiovan so I can two-tone my interior. I had thought about having new two-tone seat skins made by GAHH or World Upholstery, but it would have been pricey and that's not including any extra labor costs to make two-tone skins. Then I would still need seat nets and door panels.

The foam in the brown front door panel inserts have broken down but they aren't wrinkled and still look pretty decent, so for now I will use them as-is. I picked out the 4 best tan door panels, cleaned them up, and installed the brown inserts. I really, really like the look.

(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TQQo1I6is0I/AAAAAAAABvs/g9IfmVSgnRQ/s800/1980300sd44.jpg)(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TQQo2jER5KI/AAAAAAAABvw/jYcZnw6Kqq4/s800/1980300sd45.jpg)

I converted my car to manual windows so I needed to add some holes for the regulators. There is no need to put holes in the rear door panels, as they already have rectangular holes where the window switches used to attach. To make the holes I started with the centermost perforation behind the hole in the pressboard. I did a test fit on the door to make sure that it was in the right place. Then I took a razor and cut one perforation out, toward the center perforation, making a "+", NOT an "x". This way you get a larger opening and the opening will be undetectable should you decide to go back to power windows.

(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TQQo31EMmrI/AAAAAAAABv0/zU4elYEnqxU/s800/1980300sd46.jpg)(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TQQo4727gvI/AAAAAAAABv4/iIrVl9RYhKY/s800/1980300sd47.jpg)

Here you can see the opening I made. When I remove my finger the opening closes and can not be noticed. If you were to go back to power windows you would no longer be able to see the opening, especially if you applied some adhesive to the foam behind the vinyl to keep it in place.

(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TQQo6KTtBQI/AAAAAAAABv8/LBKlTcFp35c/s800/1980300sd48.jpg)(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TQQo7MeFbQI/AAAAAAAABwA/2Ky9bQ-N24E/s800/1980300sd49.jpg)

Here is the door panel in place with the window regulator shaft pushed through. Then I tucked the edges back in and out of the way. The location of the opening I cut was perfect.

(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TQQo8E4lwZI/AAAAAAAABwE/MjS1RBgaUPU/s800/1980300sd50.jpg)(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TQQo9ZmqUYI/AAAAAAAABwI/Kb-dINxKtD8/s800/1980300sd51.jpg)

I didn't get a chance today to finish installing the door panel as it started to get dark at 4 PM and was raining hard. Also, as I was on my way to the shed in the back yard, as I was dodging puddles and stepping across high spots, I stumbled and after trying to keep myself from falling into the water, I jumped sideways and my foot landed on a piece of wood that had a long nail in it. The nail went into my shoe, into my foot, and stopped when it hit the bone. It was difficult to pull the nail out of my foot as the nail was curved. So tomorrow I will continue.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 12 December 2010, 08:54 PM
Today I installed the front door panels. I can't believe how much better my car looks with them. I also installed the passenger side window glass with the Blaupunkt sticker to match the driver side. And I attached a passenger side rear view mirror, so the 300SD looks much more symmetrical. We got about 2.5 inches of rain today but I still got it done. At least all of the rain tends to keep the temperature above freezing.

(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TQV5EgigzTI/AAAAAAAABwk/SnmFLsdPU-U/s800/1980300sd52.jpg)(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TQV5FhqqiDI/AAAAAAAABwo/iz0DVArdpbw/s800/1980300sd53.jpg)(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TQV5GTZFaNI/AAAAAAAABws/RVDMJT24CZU/s800/1980300sd54.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: s class on 13 December 2010, 03:33 AM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 11 December 2010, 09:02 PM
..........I jumped sideways and my foot landed on a piece of wood that had a long nail in it. The nail went into my shoe, into my foot, and stopped when it hit the bone. It was difficult to pull the nail out of my foot as the nail was curved. So tomorrow I will continue.

Eina.  I hope you have a current tetanus shot. 

Car is looking great by the way. 
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 19 December 2010, 08:04 PM
I didn't die of tetanus, so this weekend I installed the rear door panels. They seem a bit harder to install than the fronts and I am always afraid I am going to break off the plastic tabs. I didn't have to cut any holes for the regulator shafts since there are already the rectangular holes where the window switches used to be. Those holes are a bit large, though, and the window crank grommets don't completely cover them (though having larger holes does help during installation). While I was replacing the rear door panels I had to replace the left rear door mechanism because that door wouldn't open from the outside, but it does now. (http://lh3.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TQ6pIJqUIkI/AAAAAAAAByA/vpn9zx_h3Po/s800/1980300sd55.jpg)(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TQ6pJW7ec3I/AAAAAAAAByE/mv8nUqbhpb8/s800/1980300sd56.jpg)(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TQ6pKmFDMhI/AAAAAAAAByI/KrP2YDpqRDQ/s800/1980300sd57.jpg)(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TQ6pLlARQbI/AAAAAAAAByM/k7YeZTNgggE/s800/1980300sd58.jpg)(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TQ6pMhAazLI/AAAAAAAAByQ/SaxGxTCrz0o/s800/1980300sd59.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 19 December 2010, 08:26 PM
I have a complete manual sunroof from a W123 chassis and I am hoping all of the parts will fit my W116 (to convert from power to manual). I know some of the parts like the roof panel and tracks interchange, but I wonder about the frame itself. W116 chassis manual sunroofs either don't exist or are very rare--I'm still not decided. I even have the correct color headliner panel with the hole for the handle. (http://lh3.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TQ6pN-F5CLI/AAAAAAAAByY/myuFN-MWM4s/s800/1980300sd60.jpg)

I also replaced the antenna so now I get better radio reception. The same car that the antenna came from had a very hard-to-find item; a battery case. It was in good condition and complete except that it was missing one piece of weatherstripping. It looked very familiar and I remembered that the air intake horn for the battery tray (by the louvers under the right headlight) uses this same weatherstripping. The 300SDs have a battery-cooling system where cold air enters from the louvers under the headlight, up through a horn, through a hole in the bottom of the battery tray, around the battery, then out through a vent in the case. This keeps the battery from overheating and it also insulates it from extreme cold. (http://lh4.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TQ6pPPgJ03I/AAAAAAAAByc/Pef6EeqL-zA/s800/1980300sd61.jpg)

I put in some original and correct size rear speakers and the proper covers. (http://lh4.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TQ6pQMI5gSI/AAAAAAAAByg/rhGX2rfcyWI/s800/1980300sd62.jpg)

I have to admit that I'm a bit overwhelmed with all of the work the car needs, but at least it's getting better. Almost everything mechanical on this vehicle is worn out if I haven't already replaced it. I had steering wheel shake and got an alignment at a shop that was recommended by my local independent Mercedes repair shop. They said that all of the front end parts are in great shape and the wheels are balanced, but that my steering box is worn out. That explains the slop, but I'm not sure about the rocking motion my steering wheel makes when I'm putting slight pressure on the steering wheel to make a turn.

The transmission is still getting me around, but it slips a lot more in this cold weather. The turbocharger is dead and I noticed that the oil cooler is starting to leak. Then today I noticed that my wiper arms felt like they were going to come off, so I'll have to replace the wiper assembly soon. I guess that's to be expected on a car with about 400,000 miles, but most of the worn out parts were advertised as "just replaced" by the previous owner, when in fact they were in need of immediate replacement. I wish I could get my 1968 200D sold for a decent price so I could put a bunch of money into the car. The paint is horrible and large sections of clear coat peels off daily. I wouldn't mind because then I could buff the paint underneath, but the colored paint is fish-eyed.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: wbrian63 on 20 December 2010, 09:03 AM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 19 December 2010, 08:26 PM
They said that all of the front end parts are in great shape and the wheels are balanced, but that my steering box is worn out. That explains the slop, but I'm not sure about the rocking motion my steering wheel makes when I'm putting slight pressure on the steering wheel to make a turn.
The rocking motion is likely related to the worn box. There's a valve in the steering box that provides pressure to whatever side of the steering system needs to boost the turning exercise. If the box is worn, then the parts are probably wobbling around inside, which is confusing the valve as to which direction the boost needs to come from.

BTW - from what MB car did the high-mount stop-light come? I don't think W116's had HMSL's, or am I wrong?
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 20 December 2010, 03:38 PM
Quote from: wbrian63 on 20 December 2010, 09:03 AM
The rocking motion is likely related to the worn box. There's a valve in the steering box that provides pressure to whatever side of the steering system needs to boost the turning exercise. If the box is worn, then the parts are probably wobbling around inside, which is confusing the valve as to which direction the boost needs to come from.

BTW - from what MB car did the high-mount stop-light come? I don't think W116's had HMSL's, or am I wrong?

Thanks for the information about the steering box. I heard that I can tighten a screw to take out the play in the steering, but that probably won't do anything for the valve. I have a spare steering box in unknown condition that I could install if it's not too difficult of a job. Or, I can have it rebuilt for big money. It was hardly noticeable when I got the car a few months ago, but it is getting worse the more I drive it.

The high-mount stop light came from a Euro model W116 280SE, but it's probably not original to the car. I see these most often in W126 sedans.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 20 December 2010, 06:28 PM
Look at the original craigslist ad for my car and have a good laugh (I will post commentary in red):

1980 Mercedes Benz 300SD Turbo Diesel W116, 5-Cyl, 4-Spd Auto | 28 MPG

Date: 2010-03-11, 9:04AM

       1980 Mercedes Benz 300SD Turbo Diesel
       W116 D30A Chassis, 5-Cyl, 4-Spd. Automatic
       28 MPG


       Great running car. Starts quickly and easily in all weather (all 5 glow plugs were bad, wouldn't start in cold weather). Better pick up speed and fuel economy due to the Turbo Charger (turbo was seized and non-working) and aftermarket hi-flow air cleaner (a cheap aftermarket hot-air kit that was melted by the exhaust manifold). No rust (mostly true), good paint (paint was horrible), but clear coat is pealing up (in large sections).

       Powered by the 3.0 L OM617 inline 5-cyl turbo diesel (2998 cc) engine. Power output is 120 hp (89 kW) with MPG consistent @ 28 miles per gallon of fuel. This reputed to be one of the most trust worthy builds of 5-cyl Mercedes Diesels, used in millions of sedans and light duty trucks, around the world. Current tags, expire August, 2010. No DEQ required. This classic is a reliable daily driver (not even close), with a 4 speed automatic transmission (transmission had bad internal seals and needed to warm up for 10 minutes before it would go into drive--and then the vacuum line fell off and it wouldn't shift out of second gear, had to rig it to get home). New brake master cylinder last month (Total lie, it was a rusty one with a cracked reservoir and rotten seals and it wouldn't hold brake fluid. I'm lucky it didn't run dry and kill me because the parking brake didn't even work). Front alignment done by Les Schwab last December (Another lie! The car wandered all over the road and when I took it in for an alignment the shop said it was way off.). Tires 75% (all 4 tires were mismatched, dry rotted, and threadbare--worst peeling chromed bundts I have ever seen).
       Front seats are a bit worn and showing their age yet still very firm and comfortable (they were trashed; broken springs, no padding left, and ripped). Rear seat is mis matched color, as well as front floor mats (they were blue and out of a W123). The window switches for the front left, and rear right windows need to be replaced (and the regulators and all parts pertaining to the power windows were bent or broken). Sun roof is working but needs a good greasing (he was right about that). Trunk seal needs to be replaced (trunk seal was good, water was coming in from the taillights). AC is non-functioning (so was the heater).
       $1195

       The asking price is firm.
       Showing by appointment Friday - Saturday - Sunday

       ATTENTION:
       Due to the high level of SPAM activity on eugene.craigslist.org; All interested buyers must include a PHONE NUMBER to receive a response. All inquiries sent without a valid phone number will be ignored and promptly deleted/blocked.


(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TQ_mcFXkHhI/AAAAAAAABzI/WTcG_SH8cXI/s800/300SD.jpg)

Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 20 December 2010, 06:32 PM
Here are the seller's email responses (commentary is in red):

Scott,

This car is ready for you, come and get it.

Yes, a Black 1980 300SD, tan interior. Don't have the VIN handy at the moment. Car runs and drives fine (what about the bad transmission?). Just drove it up from San Francisco where it had been sitting in storage for several months (I had seen this car advertised in different Oregon cities for a couple of years, and the paperwork I have for the car shows nothing but Oregon addresses for repair work for the last decade. I don't believe for one moment the car was in storage, either). Had zero problems on that 600+ mile trip.. was smooth the whole way up, even over the passes. Body in good shape, no rust or dents (A lie, car has dents all over, especially the driver door, and there is some rust). I don't have space to store it, and intend to have this car sold by Sunday.

First come first serve.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi Scott

I did get your voice message. Thanks for calling. To be honest I am a bit reluctant (I guess dishonest people are not trusting), because I have been burned by No Show craigslist responders before, recently. I also have a guy who looked at the car today but was only willing to offer me 1,000. I told him I had to get back to you first. I will take 1,100, but no less (no room for negotiation) as I have already lowered the price 500.00 (He actually raised the price $500. The last time I saw it for sale it was listed at $700!). You must promise to show up Sunday in the daylight hours.

As for the vehicle, the body is flawless (Are you joking? It was obviously in a wreck as the front end parts didn't line up and the fender was repaired and repainted at some point. The trim was bent up, too), beside the previously mentioned clear coat peeling up (yeah, that was worth mentioning). The interior of the car is in very good shape (it was in terrible shape, showing extreme wear and abuse; almost every interior piece was damaged, sunburned, torn, and needed replacement). The heating/air control button cluster needs to be remounted to the wooden bezel, and is currently loose fitted in place. The rear seat is mis matched color, it is blue (and too small). The CD player sometimes won't play burned CD's (the speakers were ripped out and the CD player wouldn't even turn on). Also, the original front floor mats are missing, sad really, because they are such nice fits in these cars. The rear driver side door only opens from the inside. The sun roof and two passenger windows are working. The door locks are intermittent, suspect a leaky vacuum system (I doubt they have worked in over a decade). I was told by my mechanic that this is why the blower motor won't always engage (blower motor was dead), and also why the transmission shifts are off (the ad never mentioned a bad transmission). He was going to charge me $400 to fix the vacuum system.
The drive line, flex-disks, drive line yoke, rear axles and rear differential are all brand new (This was the biggest lie of all. All of these parts were original. The flex discs were cracked, frayed and ready to give out. The axle boots were cracked. All other parts were rusty and old looking.). The engine and turbo are strong (the turbo was seized and non-working). The transmission is good (But what about the late shifts? The transmission really was worn out and needed rebuilding.). The suspension and front alignment are A+ (the steering was bad and the alignment shop told me that the alignment was way off).

Can you promise to be timely on Sunday?

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I rode the train, then the bus, to Eugene, Oregon from Tacoma, Washington (a 6 hour trip done for the second time that month when I looked at another car that I passed on because it was a scammer and I had to spend another 6 hours returning). The seller met me at the bus station with the vehicle running and said he was in a hurry.

I quickly looked over the car and though it looked way rougher than I had expected, I figured I was going to repaint it anyway and I had spare interior parts. At least (so I thought) the mechanical parts were all good and I was thinking of all the money in new parts I was getting with the new master cylinder, differential, axles, etc. I also didn't want to go back home empty-handed again, so I gave the guy the cash.

Here's the kicker--the guy didn't even have the title! I did get it eventually after months of begging.

I brought a bunch of CDs to listen to but the CD player wouldn't turn on and I noticed that the speakers were missing. I noticed right away when I drove off that the transmission was having issues and the car lacked the power that my last 300SD had. I couldn't hear the turbo at all and when I was on the freeway the engine was loud and making rumbling noises.

The seller sold me the car with an empty fuel tank and I wasn't even sure I was going to make it to the fuel station. The temperature gauge started to go up as I neared the station and once I got off the freeway the transmission wouldn't shift out of third gear.

I filled the fuel tank at the station and after the car had cooled off a bit I checked the coolant level--there was none in the reservoir! So I bought some coolant and it was one-and-a-half gallons low! I couldn't see any leaks.

I started up the car and it wouldn't shift out of second gear. I couldn't get the car to go up past 10 miles per hour, so I pulled off of the road and noticed that the vacuum line to the transmission had fallen off. I pulled a piece of hose off of another vacuum connection and reattached the line. I was really starting to worry if this car was going to make it back to Tacoma. But, the car finally shifted and I was able to make it the rest of the way home.

After I got home I looked at the brake reservoir and noticed it was almost empty. I put in brake fluid but it ran back out. I started checking out the car and discovered that it was totally trashed and all of the parts that were supposed to be brand new were in fact in need of immediate replacement.

The seller's response to this was:

Strange. I checked the coolant level last weekend before showing the car and it looked mostly full, or at least I thought it was.
Paper work on the car will be @ DMV in the morning, keep an eye on your mail for the title in the next two weeks.

And:

Sorry to hear! I am by no means a mechanic, and just have to trust what I am told. It breaks me to think of the 2,400 I gave trackside auto to fix it. Damn!

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

So, this is my experience with purchasing this car. I really wish I had been able to find a better Walnut Brown W116 300SD with sunroof and had avoided this clown, but like I said, it was the only one I could find in the color I wanted (or at least it used to be that color) and with a sunroof, so I jumped on it. If I was not so picky on the color and/or wanting a sunroof then I could have gotten a much better car for the money, but I knew my options were limited and I am surprised I was even able to find one. In the end it will be worth it because I will have exactly the car I want, but it would have been nice to have dealt with an honest seller or at least had room to negotiate the price.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: ulysees on 21 December 2010, 02:34 AM
You're one funny dude buddy! 
This is a great SD story. I pity the poor folks in other parts of the world where they can't get this model.
Mine's an '80 too # 21923 Feb. 623 Ivory/Tabac, i also have # 6062 Jan '79 825 Deep Green/Bamboo.
Both have body problems but drive well, and things mostly work but they leak and will need garaging and
resealing, but they are the best driving machines i've owned. I've owned new 124's and 107's and 201's.
These ancient 116's top them all and with the 617 diesel...  mmmmhhmmm.

What vehicle did you get  the manual window regulators out of ??

Good luck with your hunting. I have a bamboo back seat and i'm half way up Vancouver Island but its rusty,and the padding has disintegrated. I'm just going to get my local upholsterer to rebuild it with firm
good quality foam, something that will stand up for another 10 years, the covers are surprisingly in good condition, how do they do that after 30+ years??   Mercedes...
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: koan on 21 December 2010, 02:37 PM
Quote from: ulysees on 21 December 2010, 02:34 AM
This is a great SD story. I pity the poor folks in other parts of the world where they can't get this model.

Pity me :)

I'd love a diesel 116, were they sold in RHD markets?

koan
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 21 December 2010, 04:17 PM
Quote from: ulysees on 21 December 2010, 02:34 AM
What vehicle did you get  the manual window regulators out of ??

The manual window regulators came from a Euro-spec 1978 W116 450SE. I have only seen one USA-spec W116 that came with factory manual windows, and it was a 280S. No other chassis window regulators will interchange with the W116.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 21 December 2010, 04:20 PM
Quote from: koan on 21 December 2010, 02:37 PM
Quote from: ulysees on 21 December 2010, 02:34 AM
This is a great SD story. I pity the poor folks in other parts of the world where they can't get this model.

Pity me :)

I'd love a diesel 116, were they sold in RHD markets?

koan

I saw a RHD 1980 W116 300SD from a member in India. He said it was a Canadian model that he had exported and converted. It seems to me that the turbocharger and air cleaner would get in the way of the steering components. Sadly, the 300SD was a fluke that was only sold in North America to help satisfy EPA requirements.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 21 December 2010, 04:30 PM
I would like to install one of these custom zebrano wood instrument panel covers (available here: http://cgi.ebay.com/Tachoblende-Tacho-Mercedes-W-107-R107-SL-SLC-Zebrano-/250523796231?pt=Autoteile_Zubeh%C3%B6r&hash=item3a5461c307 (http://cgi.ebay.com/Tachoblende-Tacho-Mercedes-W-107-R107-SL-SLC-Zebrano-/250523796231?pt=Autoteile_Zubeh%C3%B6r&hash=item3a5461c307) ): (http://lh6.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TQ2w9YJvbkI/AAAAAAAABxU/SrfjwuEpnC8/s800/KompleterTachoW107.JPG)

Also, my center console wood is going to be sent off to Heritage Woodworks to have the holes cut for the front seat heater switches.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Bealiah75 on 29 December 2010, 01:17 AM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 06 August 2010, 09:45 PM
Thanks for the compliment. I used to draw a lot when I was in high school. Now that I've graduated I've had low-income jobs (I make $16,000USD a year as a furniture mover). I'd love to have a career in art, but have been so busy with work that I haven't had time lately to hone my skills. I haven't lost my talent, it just takes much longer than it used to. I want to practice more and then eventually work my way into commissioned art.

I think although a furniture mover has a low salary it is a noble and clean job. I have a friend who also works on furniture. He got a lot of friends from different customers because he is really trustworthy and responsible to his work.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 29 December 2010, 04:24 PM
Quote from: Bealiah75 on 29 December 2010, 01:17 AM
I think that although a furniture mover has a low income it is noble and peoples who hire these persons are really trusted. I have a friend that also work on furniture's moving company and he have many friends and we trust him because his trust is already tested in his work. Furniture moving is a bit of a hard work too because it is difficult moving heavy furniture's so for me it is one of coolest jobs.

Thank you for the encouragement.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 14 January 2011, 08:43 PM
Look what showed up in the mail! I thought I would never be able to purchase something like this. It doesn't have the hole for the clock adjustment knob as shown in the auction. I guess I could drill it but I'm afraid of chipping the finish. I asked the seller about it and maybe they can send one with the hole in it.

(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TTDxpV9-GcI/AAAAAAAAB0w/hLVtt7tjiTs/s800/instrumentwood.jpg)(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TTDxqgkpaPI/AAAAAAAAB00/0oKI9K-HrFg/s800/instrumentwood2.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: koan on 15 January 2011, 04:27 AM
Whatever you decide to do DON'T just put a drill bit down the hole in the back. If you did, it would make a mess when it brakes through the front.

koan
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: s class on 17 January 2011, 09:02 AM
That looks very nice.  I've not seen pictures of it aside from the seller's publicity shots.  Is the coating real wood veneer?  Looking from the back at the location where the clock adjustment knob is supposed to be, it looks like it just might be. 
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 17 January 2011, 04:51 PM
Yes, it's a real wood veneer. I am communicating with the seller trying to return it to Germany so I can have one sent with the hole for the clock. They say to try to drill it myself, but for as much money as I spent, I shouldn't have to drill any holes and risk damaging it. The auction pic even shows the hole being there.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: geospine on 21 January 2011, 03:18 AM
Nice man, I really like the Brown on Tan custom interior and the shiny new trim.
I thought the first rims looked good too but the bunts just have that classic appeal. I was planning on putting 205/80r14 tires on my 79 300sd until I read this, how are you liking the 185/80r14's? they are both fairly rare sizes and will take some time to track down.
Also I think the thin whitewall looks better than full whitewall, which would just look too formal, like a hearse.

Why the switch to all manual regulators? was it just too much effort to keep the electrical system operating? both of my front regulators grind when engaged and after tearing the door apart found that the back plates are bent so the gears don't quite line up any more. It just goes to show what kind of torque the system has to deal with.

Your narration of your experiences is quite engaging and informative, 
Keep it up.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 21 January 2011, 04:36 PM
Quote from: geospine on 21 January 2011, 03:18 AM
Nice man, I really like the Brown on Tan custom interior and the shiny new trim.
I thought the first rims looked good too but the bunts just have that classic appeal. I was planning on putting 205/80r14 tires on my 79 300sd until I read this, how are you liking the 185/80r14's? they are both fairly rare sizes and will take some time to track down.
Also I think the thin whitewall looks better than full whitewall, which would just look too formal, like a hearse.

Why the switch to all manual regulators? was it just too much effort to keep the electrical system operating? both of my front regulators grind when engaged and after tearing the door apart found that the back plates are bent so the gears don't quite line up any more. It just goes to show what kind of torque the system has to deal with.

Your narration of your experiences is quite engaging and informative, 
Keep it up.


The wheels I put on at first were 15"X7" Centra wheels. I liked the look but one of the star logos was broken and I couldn't find a replacement anywhere. All of the ones I found were too small. Same with the covers the logos mounted on. They must have been a first edition set or something. None of the Centra parts I could find were compatible, so it was too much of a pain. The wheels were also very heavy and got in the way of the brake bleeder screws.

I actually have 195/75R14s on now and I really like them. They ride nice and the steering is so much easier than with the wider, lower profile tires. I want to get wide whitewalls but they are outrageously expensive (in the correct size), unless I made my own by grinding off the black rubber on the sidewall.

I switched to manual window regulators because, unless they have been properly maintained for most of their life, electric windows are a constant source of trouble. The switches tend to go bad, though they can be opened up and cleaned. The motors seem to last forever but the regulators will warp easily and cause the aluminum guide bars to bend as well. In my experience they are very unreliable and expensive to fix. When they do work it is usually very slowly. I think it's too many parts just to move a window up and down. I like simplicity.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 27 January 2011, 10:11 PM
Here is the story on the new instrument panel piece; the seller does not have any with the hole for the clock adjustment knob. He sent me a $27 refund to help with getting the hole drilled. I will either attempt to drill the hole myself or send it to a specialist.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: rome_rod on 28 January 2011, 06:58 AM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 20 December 2010, 06:28 PM
Look at the original craigslist ad for my car and have a good laugh (I will post commentary in red):

1980 Mercedes Benz 300SD Turbo Diesel W116, 5-Cyl, 4-Spd Auto | 28 MPG

Date: 2010-03-11, 9:04AM

       1980 Mercedes Benz 300SD Turbo Diesel
       W116 D30A Chassis, 5-Cyl, 4-Spd. Automatic
       28 MPG


       Great running car. Starts quickly and easily in all weather (all 5 glow plugs were bad, wouldn't start in cold weather). Better pick up speed and fuel economy due to the Turbo Charger (turbo was seized and non-working) and aftermarket hi-flow air cleaner (a cheap aftermarket hot-air kit that was melted by the exhaust manifold). No rust (mostly true), good paint (paint was horrible), but clear coat is pealing up (in large sections).

       Powered by the 3.0 L OM617 inline 5-cyl turbo diesel (2998 cc) engine. Power output is 120 hp (89 kW) with MPG consistent @ 28 miles per gallon of fuel. This reputed to be one of the most trust worthy builds of 5-cyl Mercedes Diesels, used in millions of sedans and light duty trucks, around the world. Current tags, expire August, 2010. No DEQ required. This classic is a reliable daily driver (not even close), with a 4 speed automatic transmission (transmission had bad internal seals and needed to warm up for 10 minutes before it would go into drive--and then the vacuum line fell off and it wouldn't shift out of second gear, had to rig it to get home). New brake master cylinder last month (Total lie, it was a rusty one with a cracked reservoir and rotten seals and it wouldn't hold brake fluid. I'm lucky it didn't run dry and kill me because the parking brake didn't even work). Front alignment done by Les Schwab last December (Another lie! The car wandered all over the road and when I took it in for an alignment the shop said it was way off.). Tires 75% (all 4 tires were mismatched, dry rotted, and threadbare--worst peeling chromed bundts I have ever seen).
       Front seats are a bit worn and showing their age yet still very firm and comfortable (they were trashed; broken springs, no padding left, and ripped). Rear seat is mis matched color, as well as front floor mats (they were blue and out of a W123). The window switches for the front left, and rear right windows need to be replaced (and the regulators and all parts pertaining to the power windows were bent or broken). Sun roof is working but needs a good greasing (he was right about that). Trunk seal needs to be replaced (trunk seal was good, water was coming in from the tail light assembly (http://www.carpartswholesale.com/cpw/tail_light_assembly.html)). AC is non-functioning (so was the heater).
       $1195

       The asking price is firm.
       Showing by appointment Friday - Saturday - Sunday

       ATTENTION:
       Due to the high level of SPAM activity on eugene.craigslist.org; All interested buyers must include a PHONE NUMBER to receive a response. All inquiries sent without a valid phone number will be ignored and promptly deleted/blocked.


(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TQ_mcFXkHhI/AAAAAAAABzI/WTcG_SH8cXI/s800/300SD.jpg)

this is hilarious, man. you must be beating the chicks off with a stick. you know how much ladies dig funny men.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 04 April 2011, 09:10 PM
My car has a nice wooden center console piece without the holes for window switches. Unfortunately, it doesn't have the holes for the heated seat switches. But today this showed up in the mail:

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TZp3XL6-ykI/AAAAAAAACFg/4pXcAqhXskw/s800/1980300sd63.jpg)(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TZp3jJUjvNI/AAAAAAAACFk/IX20PSzvpME/s800/1980300sd64.jpg)(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TZp3t4oB2CI/AAAAAAAACFo/Ew9cWT9tpTQ/s800/1980300sd65.jpg)(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TZp32tH-fxI/AAAAAAAACFs/Qd6JnXAg1gs/s800/1980300sd66.jpg)

I can't wait until I have all 4 heated seats working!
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: 1980sdga on 05 April 2011, 07:55 AM
With all the electrical niggles these old cars have, you sure you want a toaster under your @ss  ;D
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 05 April 2011, 09:15 AM
Quote from: 1980sdga on 05 April 2011, 07:55 AM
With all the electrical niggles these old cars have, you sure you want a toaster under your @ss  ;D

Definitely. I grew up in the Arabian desert and now live in the chilly Pacific Northwest, so anything to help keep me warm is welcomed.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 11 April 2011, 09:14 PM
I have been busy and haven't had the time to install the parts as thoroughly as I wanted, but for now I have the manual heater face, replacement ash tray, and new center console wood installed with the seat heater switches.

The blower motor works on high with the dial. All I had to do was remove two wires that used to attach to the ACCII faceplate and connect them to the manual heater dial. I won't have time to install the full manual heater assembly for a while so for now the heat works and it looks complete.

I paid $35 for the heater faceplate and ash tray--and the seller even delivered them personally to my door! I think I got a great deal judging by the like-new condition of the wood.

I also have the new old stock console wood in place. I can't fit the shift boot because the shifter assembly is out of alignment. I have the missing seat heater switch bezel, I just haven't installed it yet.

I also have the new wooden instrument cluster that I have yet to install as well as a nearly new dashboard with wood. I have to focus on adjusting the valves, rebuilding the turbo, replacing the transmission, sealing the interior from leaks, fixing the loose wiper assembly, and installing the new calipers before I do much more with the interior.

I can't wait until I have the money to repaint the car back to its original DB479 Walnut Brown. The black paint is looking really hideous with the clearcoat coming off in sheets!

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TaOvV7beiPI/AAAAAAAACIQ/5z4-gsWS-Mk/s800/1980300sd67.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: jjb-w116-hu on 11 April 2011, 10:19 PM
lovely! - are your heated seats original or aftermarket? I am considering adding heated pads when i have my front seats rebolstered :)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: KenM on 12 April 2011, 04:32 AM
The NOS console is a thing of beauty Squiggle, makes you realise how the car must have looked new, nice work.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 12 April 2011, 03:33 PM
Quote from: jjb-w116-hu on 11 April 2011, 10:19 PM
lovely! - are your heated seats original or aftermarket? I am considering adding heated pads when i have my front seats rebolstered :)

Those are original heated seat switches and I have the wiring harnesses and all. You can also install aftermarket switches and wiring that seems to work okay. My car even has the B-pillar switches for the back seat.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Nutz on 17 April 2011, 01:57 PM
Since we're showing art, here's one I drew on my Wacom pen tablet.

(http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j27/nuts4benz/w116sketch.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 18 April 2011, 09:10 PM
Wow, that picture is awesome! You really got the proportions down and the lines are very clean.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Nutz on 18 April 2011, 09:20 PM
Need a bigger tablet, then the lines would be even better as well as the photo being larger. The one I use is a 4X6 Bamboo but rather have a 9X12 Intuos 4.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 18 April 2011, 10:41 PM
Miraculously, it didn't rain this weekend, so I got a lot done! I purchased a remanufactured steering box from C&M Hydraulics, which specializes in Mercedes steering components. It even came in proper black paint, not some strange color that would look out of place. I purchased the centering tool from The Mercedes-Benz Classic Center.

I had already replaced the steering box with a used one, but it ended up being almost as loose and still caused the steering wheel to shake back and forth. This time I removed the steering wheel and pulled the steering shaft from the box in order to make bolting up the new one easier. Long story short, I managed to get the steering shaft and wheel installed correctly. When the mark on the steering shaft is vertical the box is centered and the wheel is perfectly centered onto it.

The steering wheel shake is gone and it feels like a totally different car! The steering is very smooth and it goes around corners with so much less effort. I was a bit worried looking at how far the adjusting nut was backed out, but it steers like it did when it was new. The box centers itself perfectly, doesn't pull, and the steering wheel is perfectly centered. I am so happy!

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/Tazul2Onh8I/AAAAAAAACIw/1jtQ1Kh5fm8/s800/1980300sd70.jpg) (https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/Tazuneobl-I/AAAAAAAACI0/YUvJR5cgqXg/s800/1980300sd71.jpg)

I also installed a new centerlink boot because the old one was torn from when I tried to use a pickle fork on it. The proper tools work so much better!

This weekend I also did a valve adjustment. The first two valves were fairly close but the rest of them were tight. It looks like a previous owner overtightened the valve cover, so I will want to find a replacement. While I was putting the valve cover back on I lubricated the throttle linkage.

I also replaced the air filter with a new Mahle one that I was given. Overall, I'm happy with what I got done this weekend. The next big job I have is to replace the transmission.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 26 April 2011, 06:09 PM
This last weekend I was short on money and couldn't buy anything new for my car, so I took the best parts out of 4 grilles that I had and made really good one. I also installed my mileage and MBCA badges.

I also used the best parts from about 6 fog lights and made a nice set. The backsides were dented from being pushed into the bumper, so I carefully straightened them with body hammers. A few months ago my roommate said he would buy me some fog light guards for my birthday if I pitched in. I really like how they look!

Unfortunately, the front end is tweaked from being in a collision. The right side fender was repaired and the core support is a little buckled. I hope I can fix it. I tried to get the hood to line up straight with the edges of the fenders, but it's too far out of whack to adjust.

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TbdLbXcI0FI/AAAAAAAACKE/zY7IXE5cZZY/s800/1980300sd72.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: 1980sdga on 28 April 2011, 08:00 PM
How much was the steering box? (PM me if you want)  I'd say it was $ well spent!

These cars are fantastic to drive when the steering is what it should be  ;D
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 29 April 2011, 02:52 PM
Quote from: 1980sdga on 28 April 2011, 08:00 PM
How much was the steering box? (PM me if you want)  I'd say it was $ well spent!

These cars are fantastic to drive when the steering is what it should be  ;D

It was about $350 at AutoHauzAZ.com, but the core charge was $175, so the total was over $500 at first. I had the $175 core charge refunded less than a week after I shipped them my old one; they were right on it.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: 1980sdga on 29 April 2011, 08:49 PM
Sounds like a fair deal to me.  I may see about one for my "old" one.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 30 April 2011, 11:45 AM
Quote from: Major Tom 6.9 on 07 August 2010, 03:31 AM
It's not that unique, its actually a real option that was available, ive seen them in the flesh before  8)

They certainly turn those US bumpers in to serious business, telling anyone in front to GTF out of the way  8)

Do you know where these can be found for purchase?  I'd be very interested...

I just came across this grill guard on a model with euro bumpers:
(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/$(KGrHqMOKiEE0kvUruLbBN,66yWbS!~~_4.JPG)
Nice!  I would really prefer one that worked with US bumpers though...do you have any pictures?

Ahh, I just found one Squiggle Dog posted on another forum a while back:
(http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=64969&d=1236211752)

At first glance, I think I suddenly have a reason to prefer euro bumpers.  But after looking a few more times, the US one isn't that bad and I believe the US bumpers offer significantly more protection.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 30 April 2011, 11:50 AM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 06 September 2010, 10:53 PM
The glass was having a very hard time moving in the tracks, which puzzled me. This must be why the electric regulator shattered. I ended up discovering that the aluminum post that the window slides on was not only bowed, but bent sideways! After replacing the post the window moved freely.

I wonder if this is the issue I have with my driver door window - it rolls down about 3/4 way quite smoothly, but then slows to an agonizingly slow crawl - even if I press down on the glass while holding the switch down too.  I'm worried about damaging the motor, but I really like being able to get the window fully down and resting my arm on the sill.  What's involved in checking out the post?
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 30 April 2011, 11:55 AM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 08 October 2010, 07:08 PM
I really, really wanted wide whitewalls, but finding them in the size I needed wasn't going to happen. I know that tires with white letters or sidewalls can be shaved to make a wide whitewall but I'm not sure if I'm brave enough to do that and paying someone else to do it would be costly and who knows how well they would turn out. They sell Port-A-Walls which attach to the side but they don't work well with radial tires. Painting a whitewall would probably look tacky.

Bummer you didn't find exactly what you hoped for, but I think these tires look great!  Thin whitewalls like these are exactly what I want at some point.

Quote
I need to get some center caps, I know.

What are those?  Pictures?
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 30 April 2011, 12:05 PM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 29 October 2010, 10:42 PM
I also installed a new zebrano shift knob. I tried to order one but everywhere I checked said they were all a few months out on backorder. Then an NOS German-made knob came up for sale on eBay for less than the new ones. I think it may be better quality than the ones currently made. I have plans to purchase a zebrano wood instrument cluster when I have the money.

This is a thing of pure beauty - definitely up there on my wish list too...  I also didn't even know there were wood instrument clusters until this thread - I'll have to look into getting one of those too whenever I get around to replacing my speedometer...

Quote
I purchased an early 1980s Sony Walkman WM-10 for $200 that was advertised as working. It arrived in non-working condition but I will be getting a partial refund and I get to keep the unit. I had planned on putting it in the center console and using the auxiliary adapter to have period-correct tape cassette-playing capabilities. That same day I found a working 1980s Sony WM-4 for $2 at the thrift store, so that was some comfort. I am going to use it in the center console while I look for someone who can repair the WM-10.

It is great to have a cassette player in this car - I'm not a huge fan of my current deck (Clarion), but after picking up some cassettes at the thrift store last night I can say it is definitely preferable to be swapping out cassettes while driving down the freeway at night, which can be tossed around without worry of scratching, versus dinking around with CD's.  I'm hoping to find a cassette deck unit with support for auxiliary in - iPod controls and a wire into the glove box would be most ideal, but I'm not sure how likely it will be to find that on a cassette deck.

Quote
I got sick of looking for quality fender trim so I just bought a set of NOS 1980 stock German-made trim (yes, the sets that go for $490 plus shipping on eBay). I am waiting for it to arrive and will install it soon.

Did you find a good deal on this?  I really, really want to do the same at some point.  I *love* the way it looks on your car.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 30 April 2011, 12:13 PM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 11 April 2011, 09:14 PM
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TaOvV7beiPI/AAAAAAAACIQ/5z4-gsWS-Mk/s800/1980300sd67.jpg)

Is this heater/AC control the manual type?  Does it support A/C too or just heat?  I don't know much about the climate control systems in these cars, but I've heard it's frequently problematic, and mine does nothing but blow heat no matter what I do.  I think I'd rather have a more manual system than what's installed now anyways.  This is one thing I hope to address pretty soon, as it's getting hot here and no A/C and a heater I can't shut off (except by closing the vents) is not good.

What's the extra control on this one?:
(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/$(KGrHqZ,!l4E1F3z1RIuBN,6-f3i3Q~~_4.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 30 April 2011, 12:17 PM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 26 April 2011, 06:09 PM
A few months ago my roommate said he would buy me some fog light guards for my birthday if I pitched in. I really like how they look!

These do look great, and quite practical.  I didn't even know there were such things until now!
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 02 May 2011, 02:29 AM
Wow, that Euro grille guard is neat! I've seen those exact ones on W115s and W111s before. I want one of those to fit my Universal wagon project.

As for the aluminum window regulator guide post, I just looked at it from the front to see if it was bent out to the side instead of being straight. It should be slightly curved in one direction while being straight in another. This one was clearly bent out of shape and it would have been impossible for the window to slide down on it.

I did get the center caps for the bundt wheels. You know, those little hubcap things.

I bought my fender trim from that eBay seller. I got a good deal on it, but it was still around $300 or so. Ouch. If you can find an original set in good condition, go for it. It's hard to find chrome plated fender trim these days. Most of it is stainless steel and you have to really watch because a lot of it has a poor fit and you do have to drill holes...

My heater faceplate is the manual type. It's partly functional. It currently works on high heat or off only. I haven't gotten around to fully converting it, but I have all of the necessary parts. It won't be easy, but it will be worth it.

Right now I have the non-A/C faceplate. The one in the picture you posted has the extra dial for A/C. I have one of those too, but I needed something simple to rig up in the meantime. I was thinking about using the non-A/C single dial and then installing an A/C ON/OFF switch where the power sunroof switch used to go (since I've converting to a manual sunroof), but then I'm not sure how I would shut the heat valve off and still have the blower working for the A/C.

Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: 1980sdga on 02 May 2011, 10:53 AM
I wonder what the euro bumper guard is bolted to?  It looks like there is a flange under the bumper.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: jbrasile on 02 May 2011, 04:50 PM
Casey,

The car with only one round knob does not have a/c, only heating and ventilation. The other one does have air conditioning and that is the system used on US cars until 1976. The upper knob controls fan speed and the lower the a/c temp. Heat is controlled by the outer sliding levers. Inner levers direct air to the various vents. The beauty of this system is that not only do you have FULL control of your a/c and ventilation but you can also heat or cool the left and right sides of the cabin individually. Another big advantage is that there is only ONE vacuum actuator to deal with, which is the one that controls the fresh air flap, whereas the accII system is a myriad of vacuum lines, solenoids, actuators, etc....

Tks,

Joe
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 02 May 2011, 07:54 PM
Quote from: jbrasile on 02 May 2011, 04:50 PM
The car with only one round knob does not have a/c, only heating and ventilation. The other one does have air conditioning and that is the system used on US cars until 1976. The upper knob controls fan speed and the lower the a/c temp. Heat is controlled by the outer sliding levers. Inner levers direct air to the various vents. The beauty of this system is that not only do you have FULL control of your a/c and ventilation but you can also heat or cool the left and right sides of the cabin individually. Another big advantage is that there is only ONE vacuum actuator to deal with, which is the one that controls the fresh air flap, whereas the accII system is a myriad of vacuum lines, solenoids, actuators, etc....

Thanks as always for the insights Joe - it's nice that you know so much about the parts on these cars.  I will almost certainly be converting my car to this manual setup at some point...and it will be an adventure to figure out what all needs removed and replaced to do the job proper, but I've got bigger priorities for the time being. :)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: 1980sdga on 02 May 2011, 08:12 PM
Quote from: Raptelan on 02 May 2011, 07:54 PM
Quote from: jbrasile on 02 May 2011, 04:50 PM
The car with only one round knob does not have a/c, only heating and ventilation. The other one does have air conditioning and that is the system used on US cars until 1976. The upper knob controls fan speed and the lower the a/c temp. Heat is controlled by the outer sliding levers. Inner levers direct air to the various vents. The beauty of this system is that not only do you have FULL control of your a/c and ventilation but you can also heat or cool the left and right sides of the cabin individually. Another big advantage is that there is only ONE vacuum actuator to deal with, which is the one that controls the fresh air flap, whereas the accII system is a myriad of vacuum lines, solenoids, actuators, etc....

Thanks as always for the insights Joe - it's nice that you know so much about the parts on these cars.  I will almost certainly be converting my car to this manual setup at some point...and it will be an adventure to figure out what all needs removed and replaced to do the job proper, but I've got bigger priorities for the time being. :)

Thanks as well Joe!  I love the look of the manual AC and would really like to have it.  However...

From what I understand it's a MASSIVE undertaking requiring the entire dash to come out  :o  I would be scared I'd crack the dash or screw something else up in the process  ::)

Maybe if I had a parts car that had the entire system in it.  You say they had this on 116's up to 76?  I wonder if that's in the US?

It would make this car a lot closer to perfect.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: jbrasile on 02 May 2011, 08:54 PM
1980sdga, YES! Up until 1976, US 116's had the manual system. I wonder who at MB had the bright idea to install the former Chrysler Imperial Auto Temp II in our cars starting in 77. The worst thing was that you could not even spec out ACC when ordering the car new!

I wouldn't say its an easy project, but doing the conversion is pretty straight forward if you get a donor car. And it is possible to remove the dash without damaging it. There might be even a way to remove all of the acc system without actually taking the dash out. The manual mentions such a procedure  for the manual system so I believe it may doable.

In the future I may tackle this myself for the 78 450SEL, having driven cars with both systems there is simply no comparison.

Tks,

Joe
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: 1980sdga on 02 May 2011, 09:20 PM
I think I read somewhere that Chrysler abandoned the ACC because it was so unreliable  ::)  Maybe the Germans figured out that they bought a load of crap and sent it back to us  ;D

If I could get it the ACC to work (I do have cold AC now but the controls are wonky) and not feel like it's a time bomb I would be pretty happy with it.  The manual setup does look cooler though...

I'm still dealing with some minor mechanicals now but I'm thinking about going with the Unwired Tools setup  after I get the vacuum stuff sorted.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 05 May 2011, 08:33 AM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 14 January 2011, 08:43 PM
Look what showed up in the mail! I thought I would never be able to purchase something like this. It doesn't have the hole for the clock adjustment knob as shown in the auction. I guess I could drill it but I'm afraid of chipping the finish. I asked the seller about it and maybe they can send one with the hole in it.

I am really looking forward to seeing a picture of this installed.  I think I want one, but am holding out to see what it looks like in your car as it's not very cheap...
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 07 May 2011, 06:40 PM
Quote from: Raptelan on 05 May 2011, 08:33 AM
I am really looking forward to seeing a picture of this installed.  I think I want one, but am holding out to see what it looks like in your car as it's not very cheap...

I am really looking forward to installing it. When you get these things, though, you have to drill through the precious zebrano to make the hole for the clock adjustment knob. :'( I will be getting around to it soon. I have to decide whether I like my 85 MPH speedometer or if I want to put in a 120 MPH one. It seems ridiculous for a speedometer to read higher than 85 MPH, though, since the only time you can legally drive that fast is if you are on the Autobahn. I will probably never drive faster than 85 MPH during my lifetime.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 07 May 2011, 07:14 PM
I bought my 300SD with practically every part broken or worn out. I've been having to repair or replace everything, and the transmission is no exception. But then it's not very far away from a half million miles!

The seller met me at the bus station with the car running. From there I drove off in it and immediately noticed something was wrong with the transmission. The car felt sluggish and it had a hard time getting up to freeway speed. When I pulled off the freeway to get diesel (because the seller sold the car with an empty tank), the transmission felt like it was stuck in gear and I couldn't get the car to go above 15 MPH. I struggled with it and eventually it shifted so I was able to crawl back onto the freeway and gain speed. I got the car home to Washington from Oregon where I bought it.

The next time I went to drive the car it wouldn't move in either reverse or drive. After the engine ran for a while I was able to make the car move if I revved the engine. It would slowly gain speed and it wouldn't shift out of second gear. I tried driving the car a few more times and I found out that if I let the engine warm up for at least 10 minutes then the car would shift very reluctantly into 3rd gear, while still taking a while before it would reach 4th gear. Driving it like this was a hassle.

I researched on the forums what could be wrong with the transmission. The consensus was that the internal seals were aged and so the transmission wasn't building up enough pressure to function until the torque converter had been turning for a while and the internal parts had warmed. I'm normally against mechanic-in-a-bottle, but I was recommended K&W Trans-X Slip-Stop & Leak Fix. I figured my transmission was already ruined so it wouldn't hurt to try it.

After using the Trans-X I noticed that it wasn't taking as long for the transmission to start functioning. It got to the point where the car only had to warm up for 5 minutes before it would go into gear, and then it usually shifted fine afterward. Once the transmission was at operating temperature it worked well. The transmission had a major fluid leak that became only a minor one. The Trans-X really worked!

After a few months of driving I could feel the transmission slipping more and more and I knew it was time to start looking for a weekend with not as much rain as normal to do a transmission swap. I had a Getrag 717.400 5 speed manual transmission with shifter and linkage for the W116/W123 chassis that would have fit. I intended on doing a 5 speed conversion but in the end I decided that I hate having to shift. The W116 is such a comfortable car that I just couldn't make it less comfortable to use by installing a manual transmission. It was very, very tempting, and a 5 cylinder turbodiesel engine with a 5 speed would have been awesome, but in the end I sold the 5 speed and the money I got from the sale was very useful.

I acquired a used automatic transmission from a 1979 W116 300SD parts car. It didn't look like much, and in fact, the bellhousing was torn up from the flex plate shattering and the shards flying around inside it. I was looking through the receipts in the parts car and noticed that the transmission had been rebuilt locally at Mercedes Auto Service 100,000 miles ago at a cost of $2,021.25! I decided it was worth the risk to install it.

Here in Washington state it rains almost all of the time, but the weather forecast showed a weekend where it was only supposed to be cloudy, so I ordered the parts that I needed to install the replacement transmission.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 07 May 2011, 07:38 PM
Here are the parts that I ordered for the transmission swap. The transmission had been rebuilt recently enough that I think the seals would still be good, but I ordered the input shaft and front pump seals just to be sure. If I found the rest of the seals to leak then I could replace them at a later time with the transmission still in the car. I figured it would be a waste to replace the other seals since they are probably good, but I decided the input shaft and front pump seals weren't worth the risk! Replacing the cooler hoses was a must, and I also purchased all shift bushings since all of them were missing!
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TcXKsNbITAI/AAAAAAAACLI/0lm69QXgk_Y/s800/1980300sd73.jpg)

Here's the replacement transmission from a 1979 W116 300SD with 100,000 miles on a rebuild. It didn't look like much but after cleaning it with biodiesel (works better than engine degreaser; it melts the grease instantly) and then rinsing it with water it looked good. I let 303 Aerospace Protectant soak into the rubber seals and plastic parts. I didn't clean the bellhousing since I planned on using the original one from my car.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TcXK2tZl0lI/AAAAAAAACLM/yOtl6TSZ6g8/s800/1980300sd74.jpg)

I jacked up the car and had enough room to get underneath. I drained the fluid out of the pan and torque converter.  I supported the transmission with a block of wood on a jack and removed the mounting plate. From there it was easier to disconnect the driveshaft at the flex disc and slide it back out of the way. From there I removed the electrical connections and shift linkage. The cooler lines were also removed at this time.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TcXLLaE8GoI/AAAAAAAACLQ/TiuHe40AOLE/s800/1980300sd75.jpg)

The transmission mount had broken and though I had wanted to replace it with the flex discs, I didn't have the money for those parts at the time. I used the one that came with the replacement transmission, which was still intact, though age cracked.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TcXLQyf_QaI/AAAAAAAACLU/LE-TYazYxBw/s800/1980300sd76.jpg)

From there I removed the rubber exhaust hangers and lowered the exhaust.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TcXLZjbtYXI/AAAAAAAACLY/_2rstIwydtA/s800/1980300sd77.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 07 May 2011, 07:43 PM
I removed the transmission cooler lines so they wouldn't be damaged when the transmission was separated.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TcXMPNzW99I/AAAAAAAACLw/3ICBVdUPa8Q/s800/1980300sd83.jpg)

Getting ready to lower the transmission and tilt back the engine with it, I placed a thick cloth over the crossmember so the engine pan would have something soft to rest on. You'll want to be sure the cooler lines have been removed so they do not get crushed.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TcXLg2Xzh4I/AAAAAAAACLc/Wq-ni5Gh6II/s800/1980300sd78.jpg)

Here is the engine lowered onto the cloth on the crossmember. I don't like my car getting scratched.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TcXLq9r-inI/AAAAAAAACLg/4loWtKx3zBw/s800/1980300sd79.jpg)

Before I tilted back the engine I disconnected the throttle linkage to prevent it from being damaged.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TcXL4KsthFI/AAAAAAAACLk/bqMG7sxuE90/s800/1980300sd80.jpg)

I also removed the air cleaner, dipstick, and disconnected the pressure control rod leading to the transmission to give the engine room to tilt back. I hope it wasn't hard on the engine mounts. Notice how the fan blades move into the upper radiator hose.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TcXMERFmUKI/AAAAAAAACLo/Oi9dg6JVruk/s800/1980300sd81.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 07 May 2011, 08:24 PM
Once the engine was tilted back I removed the speedometer cable (make sure the clamp screw is removed completely before pulling out the cable). The pressure control rod should be removed at this point, though it is difficult to reach the cotter pin. All bolts holding the transmission to the engine are now accessible with enough extensions. The factory service manual recommends removing the engine with the transmission instead of attempting to remove the transmission by itself. It may have in fact been easier to remove the engine with the transmission; I'm not decided!

Accessing those bolts on the top of the bellhousing was very difficult. After using about 4 extensions I reached them but I couldn't get enough torque on the ratchet without it flexing the extensions and I was afraid the socket would slip off and round the bolts (and I broke one of the extensions). In the end I used two hands on the ratchet and hoped that the socket wouldn't slip as I gave it a hard pull. It worked, but I wonder how close I was to that socket slipping. If you have a helper, have him hold pressure on the end of the ratchet and help keep the extensions from flexing, to be safe. Later I found that I could access them without extensions, though I don't know if there would be enough leverage from that angle to break them loose, but there is enough for tightening.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TcXMIbaVOhI/AAAAAAAACLs/s8i6MEtIA-w/s800/1980300sd82.jpg)

I unbolted the front exhaust mount, loosened the U-bolt, then moved the mounting bracket out of the way.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TcXMaMVE9aI/AAAAAAAACL0/k3W7kfKmxII/s800/1980300sd84.jpg)

When the final bolts were ready to be removed I pulled out the jack and placed an old seat cushion under the transmission to give it something soft to land on. I had a difficult time separating the engine from the transmission but then I remembered that there is a black plastic pin at the bottom of the bellhousing that keeps the torque converter from falling out.

I wasn't able to remove the pin so I disconnected the torque converter at the flywheel by removing the 6 bolts which are accessible through the inspection plate (which was missing and allowed dirt to get in the bellhousing). The engine can be turned (clockwise only!) with a 22MM wrench on the power steering pump nut to get access to all 6 bolts. Yes, I had to lift the transmission back up to get at them, then lower it once the torque converter was unbolted. I later read that the torque converter should always be removed and installed with the transmission to prevent damage to the splines and seal. The black pin at the bottom of the bellhousing keeps the torque converter from falling out when removing or installing the transmission.

Once the torque converter was unbolted from the flywheel I lowered the transmission again, removed the jack, put the old seat cushion back under it, then pulled and let the transmission fall onto the cushion. Then I had to pull out the cushion onto some cardboard and jack up the car high enough into the air to slide out the transmission with the cardboard under it.

I removed the bellhousing from the transmission to swap onto the replacement transmission with the damaged bellhousing. I saw something interesting. Apparently something that was supposed to be screwed inside the transmission was no longer in place.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TcXMyiuwVaI/AAAAAAAACL8/JLROJPZU_0g/s800/1980300sd85.jpg)

It appears that the three screws had worked themselves out and ground away at the housing until they finally fell out!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TcXMkeCghkI/AAAAAAAACL4/jELGLUlPuu4/s800/1980300sd86.jpg)

There was damage at the input shaft as well.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TcXNWk6Kc_I/AAAAAAAACMM/g1Yekj2ng78/s800/1980300sd87.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 07 May 2011, 08:44 PM
You can see why I was wanting to swap out the bellhousing in the replacement transmission. The flex plate in the car it came from had broken and shredded the inside of the bellhousing. I was a bit worried that maybe the metal particles got inside the transmission, but I figured that the input shaft seal had prevented this and it should still be worth a try.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TcXNiDvkpwI/AAAAAAAACMQ/-os_BrLak2Y/s800/1980300sd88.jpg)

I purchased a new bellhousing gasket and installed the bellhousing from the original transmission using no sealant. I later read that sealant should be used on the bolt threads. It would be a tragedy if they leak and I hope they don't. I used the front pump from the rebuilt transmission and installed the new input shaft and front pump seals.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TcXNmLj5CtI/AAAAAAAACMU/-kPdK1IQ6_o/s800/1980300sd89.jpg)

I didn't know that there was a breather hole on the top of the bellhousing. I think a little amount of water and dirt got inside from there. The smallest particle can cause trouble in an automatic transmission, so I carefully wiped away any contaminant I saw with a clean finger. The bellhousing I installed had the plastic breather tube still in place. Here the new filter is installed.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TcXNvu8yNeI/AAAAAAAACMY/nemlCOvBBR4/s800/1980300sd90.jpg)

The pan had some small metal flakes and bits of dirt that had gotten through so I rinsed it and blew it dry with compressed air. It's not a good idea to use rags to wipe any internal part of the transmission because the lint can get stuck in the valve body. This goes for the dipstick as well when checking the fluid level! The pan gasket doesn't like to stay in place and is difficult to install. It wasn't so bad for me because I installed it before putting the transmission in the car.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TcXOEzXBERI/AAAAAAAACMc/F_sI2S2WpTE/s800/1980300sd91.jpg)

Here's the transmission cleaned up and ready to install.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TcXOO--NZAI/AAAAAAAACMg/sWgOjjNSKsA/s800/1980300sd92.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 07 May 2011, 09:00 PM
The triangular piece bolted onto the flywheel is the flex plate. This is the part that shattered on the donor car and tore up the bellhousing. I checked mine for cracks. They sometimes fail and I probably should have replaced it as a preventative measure. What I thought were cracks at first were actually scratches. I replaced the starter with one remanufactured by Bosch since it was already unbolted. The starter wires are difficult to access, though, but I feel good about knowing I won't have to replace it midwinter anytime soon! I cleaned the transmission wiring and dressed it with 303 Aerospace Protectant.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TcXOVxRYCmI/AAAAAAAACMk/GgmUgJpTtCA/s800/1980300sd93.jpg)

I replaced all of the shift linkages as they were all missing. They are hard to push into place. I had to do it with pliers, a cloth, and lubricant. It's amazing how smooth and tight the shifter now feels!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TcXOasFfZEI/AAAAAAAACMo/C0kz7EVRZT8/s800/1980300sd94.jpg)(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TcXOjoAIn8I/AAAAAAAACMs/V-C1Epw8F6w/s800/1980300sd95.jpg)(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TcXPx4ge-4I/AAAAAAAACNI/96ZmCTpZGI8/s800/1980300sd102.jpg)

I installed a new drain plug sealing ring on the torque converter and installed it in the transmission. I then pushed the black plastic retaining pin in place to keep the torque converter from falling out. I lifted up the car higher in the air and slid the transmission under the car. I then lowered the car back to where it was. I tried several times to get the transmission on me so I could push it up into place but it was too difficult. I couldn't even get it onto the jack to lift it up.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TcXOr2IsihI/AAAAAAAACMw/wFqHhUI07ig/s800/1980300sd96.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 07 May 2011, 09:25 PM
I took drastic measures and got a really big jack and lifted up the car by the crossmember behind the engine oil pan with a wood block to support it.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TcXO22BZvcI/AAAAAAAACM0/LfzHbSXD_KU/s800/1980300sd97.jpg)

It was tight! There was almost not enough room to slide the transmission under the car while on top of the jack, but I was able to tilt the transmission enough for it to slide under. I don't know if I was supposed to, but I greased the shaft that sticks out of the middle of the torque converter.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TcXPCM4b1WI/AAAAAAAACM4/bRrE7VsEGRc/s800/1980300sd98.jpg)

I had the front of the car so high in the air that I thought I crushed my muffler! The trunk pan was resting on it but luckily it didn't even dent it.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TcXPMAn7I3I/AAAAAAAACM8/riQ4kfFfczA/s800/1980300sd99.jpg)

I was able to raise up the transmission to the engine but it was very wobbly on the jack and I felt uneasy. It took a lot of effort to keep if from falling off. I had to be very delicate to get the bolts started.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TcXPaOLy25I/AAAAAAAACNA/FE2HjlwXPeA/s800/1980300sd100.jpg)

Once I had the bolts started I had to lift up the transmission to raise the engine to obtain clearance to access the torque converter bolts. The torque converter has to slide into the 3 notches in the flywheel for the transmission to seat against the engine and for the bolt holes to line up. I installed the transmission with the torque converter drain plug pointing down and the bump on the timing marks near the pulley pointer so that finding the drain plug is easy. I think this position is marked on the flex plate with white paint. The white paint on the flex plate indicates on which side the drain plug should be facing.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TcXPmvSXUEI/AAAAAAAACNE/UbF1CfIOMwU/s800/1980300sd101.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 07 May 2011, 10:16 PM
Even though I started removing the transmission on Friday, I wasn't finished on Sunday, so I took Monday off from work in hopes that I would finish then. When Monday ended I had the driveshaft and transmission mount connected, the exhaust hooked back up, and the shift linkage and control pressure rod attached.

I work on an Air Force Base where I have to have a special pass for my vehicle, so on Tuesday I borrowed my roommate's station wagon and bicycle, drove the station wagon near the base and parked it, then rode the bicycle onto base to get to work. Haha.

When I got back I started working on the transmission cooler lines. I cleaned the outsides with biodiesel, rinsed, then blew out the insides with brake cleaner and then compressed air. I covered the ends with plastic bags held on with rubber bands to keep out dirt.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TcXP3QVDTsI/AAAAAAAACNM/-JKEJqhrsFM/s800/1980300sd103.jpg)

There are rubber spacers on the clamps that hold the lines in place. When the spacers fall out they allow the lines to vibrate and wear through. Eventually it will cause leaks. Spots that are nearly worn through can be filled with a metal repair putty.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TcYBov2oDTI/AAAAAAAACNw/_7lDvJM9CLE/s800/1980300sd104.jpg)(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TcYBq57V76I/AAAAAAAACN0/5UNXY_Gy5yY/s800/1980300sd105.jpg)

After snaking the lines through I realized that they didn't fit. They appeared to have been bent out of shape at one time and were only put in place with force. It ended up taking all afternoon and evening to bend the lines to the correct shape. It was a very tedious process of trial-and-error. When I got them to fit I realized I had no idea where the clamps mounted because they were missing and I was using spares. It was obvious that there are two that attach on the bellhousing and I figured out that the left side one attaches to the oil pan, but I don't know where the other clamps are supposed to attach. I searched the internet and my factory service manuals for hours looking for pictures of where they attach, but I couldn't see any pictures of that area. I decided to skip over this part for now.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TcXQPNgIcOI/AAAAAAAACNU/fUQvy3456PU/s800/1980300sd107.jpg)(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TcXQVPp2aUI/AAAAAAAACNY/BmwhjB5YpDE/s800/1980300sd108.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 07 May 2011, 10:19 PM
Since I still didn't have the car done I drove the station wagon and rode the bicycle to work on Wednesday. When I got home I attached the new Contitech cooler hoses onto the lines. The new ones are nice because they have a spring around them to keep them from kinking.

I then moved on to installing the dipstick tube, but it was bent out of shape and it took almost the entire afternoon and evening to get to the correct shape. Then I cleaned the inside with brake cleaner and blew out with compressed air. I made sure the dipstick was clean and put it in the tube and installed it. Then I found out that the threads for the dipstick tube bolt in the intake manifold were stripped out! Or maybe it was just the bolt... There was enough grab to install it, just not to get it tight.

Having cleaned all fitting surfaces with fine sandpaper and installing new aluminum sealing rings, I decided I would add one quart of fluid to the transmission to see if I had any leaks. I couldn't see any leaks so I put in four quarts of Red Line Synthetic D4 ATF and 24 ounces of Trans-X.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TcXQDsb94JI/AAAAAAAACNQ/DYKgSqNZVC4/s800/1980300sd106.jpg)

I then lowered the car, reconnected the throttle linkage, attached the pressure control rod, and installed the air cleaner. I started the engine but I noticed that the fuel, temperature gauges, turn signals, and brake lights weren't working. I checked the fuse box and saw that the number 4 fuse was blown. I replaced the fuse and it blew again. I looked all over the engine compartment looking for something I may have disconnected or installed improperly. I knew that the transmission wires were all in the correct spot. I thought that maybe I had used too much dielectric grease on the neutral safety switch. It was about 10 PM, so I cleaned up and went to sleep, disappointed that I was so close but now had an electrical problem.

I had the same transportation arrangements on Thursday. When I got home from work I disconnected all of the transmission wiring and replaced the number 4 fuse. My gauges, turn signals, and brake lights were working. I then connected the neutral safety switch. That didn't blow the fuse. Then I attached what I think is the reverse light switch. That didn't blow the fuse, either. Then when I attached the kickdown solenoid it blew the fuse! I checked to see if the wire was grounding on anything, but it wasn't. I took the gear selector out of park and it still blew the fuse.

I figured that the solenoid itself must be bad since the plastic cover was cracked and water must have gotten in there when I was washing the transmission. Oops. I was a bit upset since I feared transmission fluid would come gushing out if I changed it and I didn't have any new sealing rings for installing it. I removed the solenoid from the original transmission (which I knew to work) and then removed the one from the replacement transmission. I had to use an adjustable wrench using very small turns to get at it. When the switch came out fluid ran out so I had to plug it with the solenoid screw. I had some spare rubber sealing rings that I used and one of the aluminum sealing rings was in good condition so I reused it. When I installed the solenoid it didn't leak. I connected the wire and it didn't blow the fuse! I was very happy that I solved that problem.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TcXSq3z1oPI/AAAAAAAACNg/kpGIbMt-uFA/s800/1980300sd109.jpg)

I ran the engine and checked the transmission fluid level, wiping the stick with my fingers so as to not get lint on it. I filled it with ATF using a clean funnel until I could see the fluid about 30mm below the minimum line. I then drove the car around to get it to operating temperature. When I got back to the driveway I added ATF until it was 3/4 between the minimum and maximum lines.

On Friday I drove my 300SD to work. It was very refreshing to be able to drive off after starting the car instead of having to wait for 5-10 minutes before I could drive it. The engine was revving far too high before shifting and it was flaring between gears. This morning I adjusted out the control pressure rod and test drove until I got the shifts at ideal points. I then popped off the vacuum modulator cap, pulled out the pin, rotated clockwise, test drove, then repeated until I got the shifts as firm as I liked them. It shifts firm like a manual transmission, but not harshly. When I was test driving I had to pull out quickly into traffic and I peeled out up to about 20 MPH!

The replacement transmission works great and I am very happy with it. What's more, is I have seen no leaks from it. When I get paid I am going to purchase OEM flex discs, a transmission mount, and some other things to install. I plan on making a 2,000 mile trip to Utah and back next month like I did in my 1968 200D fintail, so I am trying to get this car as roadworthy as that one.

I suppose it was worth getting sore, oily, drenched from the rain storms, and the approximately 70 hours it took to complete! But seriously, unless you are poor like me, just pay a shop to do it. I still have to figure out where the transmission cooler line clamps attach on the engine so the lines don't vibrate against the block.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 07 May 2011, 10:24 PM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 07 May 2011, 06:40 PM
I am really looking forward to installing it. When you get these things, though, you have to drill through the precious zebrano to make the hole for the clock adjustment knob. :'( I will be getting around to it soon. I have to decide whether I like my 85 MPH speedometer or if I want to put in a 120 MPH one. It seems ridiculous for a speedometer to read higher than 85 MPH, though, since the only time you can legally drive that fast is if you are on the Autobahn. I will probably never drive faster than 85 MPH during my lifetime.

See my avatar icon - I photographed that on the way to work - it's pretty routine for me at points I can get away with it, legal or not. ;)  The problem is that if I'm at 85 or above, I really prefer to know exactly how fast I'm going.  At some times, 85mph is the most I want to push my luck.  Other times (say, driving across country at night with no other traffic in visible sight), I want to go see just how fast I can go. :D  Granted, right now going more that 85mph isn't very practical, as a bad driver door seal means I start getting pretty harsh wind noise around that speed...
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 07 May 2011, 10:35 PM
Wow, the transmission job sounds really intense.  Good on you for having the willingness and ability to take on such a project.  I wish you the best of luck and look forward to reading more as it comes!
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 07 May 2011, 11:40 PM
Quote from: Raptelan on 07 May 2011, 10:24 PM
See my avatar icon - I photographed that on the way to work - it's pretty routine for me at points I can get away with it, legal or not. ;)  The problem is that if I'm at 85 or above, I really prefer to know exactly how fast I'm going.  At some times, 85mph is the most I want to push my luck.  Other times (say, driving across country at night with no other traffic in visible sight), I want to go see just how fast I can go. :D  Granted, right now going more that 85mph isn't very practical, as a bad driver door seal means I start getting pretty harsh wind noise around that speed...

Ha! I wondered if the speedometer would break if I went above 85 MPH. I don't like driving fast, but I also don't like being stuck behind all of the slow drivers here who think it's okay to drive 45 MPH on a 60 MPH freeway.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: 1980sdga on 08 May 2011, 12:05 AM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 07 May 2011, 11:40 PM
Quote from: Raptelan on 07 May 2011, 10:24 PM
See my avatar icon - I photographed that on the way to work - it's pretty routine for me at points I can get away with it, legal or not. ;)  The problem is that if I'm at 85 or above, I really prefer to know exactly how fast I'm going.  At some times, 85mph is the most I want to push my luck.  Other times (say, driving across country at night with no other traffic in visible sight), I want to go see just how fast I can go. :D  Granted, right now going more that 85mph isn't very practical, as a bad driver door seal means I start getting pretty harsh wind noise around that speed...

Ha! I wondered if the speedometer would break if I went above 85 MPH. I don't like driving fast, but I also don't like being stuck behind all of the slow drivers here who think it's okay to drive 45 MPH on a 60 MPH freeway.

Good job on the Tranny!  Lotta work man...  My speedos in both of my 300SDs read low. According to my Garmin they read about 7 mph slow! My Garmin is dead on the digital speedos in my Caddies...

I reviewed todays trip and had a max speed of 101 mph in the Benz  ;D  They were rolling on I-20 outside ATL today.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: oscar on 08 May 2011, 03:41 AM
Holy cow, what an effort Squiggle.  I really didn't think you were going to get the tranny mounted.  Congratulations.

Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: jbrasile on 08 May 2011, 02:02 PM
Wow Squiggle!!! Congratulations on the tranny replacement project and the superb description of the process!!!

Take care,

Joe
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 08 May 2011, 08:26 PM
Quote from: 1980sdga on 08 May 2011, 12:05 AM
My speedos in both of my 300SDs read low. According to my Garmin they read about 7 mph slow! My Garmin is dead on the digital speedos in my Caddies...

I had this same issue in my 1986 300D - I wonder if it's a common problem and if my current speedometer is off - I'll have to borrow my girlfriend's Garmin and check (this is how I found out last time too - it was dead on in her Oldsmobile).  Another issue with my current speedometer is that it wobbles about a lot.  Instead of sitting at a given speed, say, 50mph, it tends to wobble from 48 to 52...
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: calvin streeting on 09 May 2011, 02:38 AM
Just to let you know GPS speed is calculated as the crow fly's, point to point. so unless your on a dead straight road its not a true indication.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 09 May 2011, 07:21 AM
Quote from: calvin streeting on 09 May 2011, 02:38 AM
Just to let you know GPS speed is calculated as the crow fly's, point to point. so unless your on a dead straight road its not a true indication.

Eh what?  Garmin's GPS mileage, speed, and ETA are all based on many points, following the curve of any road in the route, unless you set it to "as the crow flies" mode that ignores roads and just draws a line to your destination.  I would think it safe to assume that other GPS's work the same.  It collects location data from you every second or so, so there's plenty of accurate location points to work with.  Why one calculate these differently from your actual direction of travel?

Now, I doubt that it's 100% pinpoint accurate because it isn't going to take into consideration minor details like which lane you are when coming around a bend, but that's a pretty subtle difference.  In any case, the device matches speedometer speed in many cars, so I think it's a pretty safe bet that the speedo is off in 1980sdga's and my previous car...
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: 1980sdga on 10 May 2011, 07:51 PM
Quote from: Raptelan on 08 May 2011, 08:26 PM
Quote from: 1980sdga on 08 May 2011, 12:05 AM
My speedos in both of my 300SDs read low. According to my Garmin they read about 7 mph slow! My Garmin is dead on the digital speedos in my Caddies...

I had this same issue in my 1986 300D - I wonder if it's a common problem and if my current speedometer is off - I'll have to borrow my girlfriend's Garmin and check (this is how I found out last time too - it was dead on in her Oldsmobile).  Another issue with my current speedometer is that it wobbles about a lot.  Instead of sitting at a given speed, say, 50mph, it tends to wobble from 48 to 52...

My speedo (The gauge, not the swimsuit...) was waggling in mine and I sprayed some graphite spray lube (Made for locks) down the cable housing when I had the instrument cluster out.  After a few miles it settled down to normal.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 10 May 2011, 09:14 PM
They make a lubricant especially for cables called Cable-EZ or something that works great. I've used it on the throttle and hood-release cables and it works wonderfully.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: KenM on 11 May 2011, 04:39 AM
Squiggle mate, what an effort with the tranny, maximum points there man, very impressive. As you say, much better to get it done with the right lifting equipment etc but well done, hope it works out well.

Cheers,
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 19 May 2011, 09:41 PM
My last 300SD gave a turbo whistle upon accelerating, which I thought was normal. It was a fast car, too. My current 300SD was sluggish when I purchased it and I immediately noticed that I couldn't hear the turbo. This lead me to believe that the turbo was dead. After doing routine filter and fluid changes, adjusting valves, and backing the ALDA off completely I got a lot more power out of the vehicle.

I was still unhappy with the fact that I couldn't hear the turbo and I wanted to know if it was working. Today I removed the exhaust and drove the car. Wow, my turbo works for sure! I could hear it spool up and hear the waste gate open. I was turning heads and got a smile from a guy with a Ford Powerstroke. The engine was louder, but it wasn't annoying at all, it actually sounded good, like a big truck.

When I removed the exhaust I had to remove the flex pipe that goes between the turbo and the exhaust. There was a pipe inside of the flex pipe. Out of curiosity I did not put this pipe back in when I installed the flex pipe.

I drove the car again, and though the engine was back to being quiet as before I removed the exhaust, I could now hear the turbo with the exhaust attached! It's not as loud as without exhaust, but the engine is quiet and the turbo is audible over the engine when accelerating, just like my last 300SD. It sounds like a jet and I love it!

Now that I think of it, my last 300SD had no exhaust when I purchased it. Someone local gave me a used exhaust system but it did not have that pipe that fits inside the flex pipe. So, there you go. If you want to hear your turbo, remove the pipe inside the flex pipe.

I was tempted to make some holes in the flex pipe to allow more sound to come out, but I don't want the engine compartment filling up with smoke and soot. Though, I wonder if I could sleeve one so that it's open and allows the sound to escape while routing the exhaust down the pipe. In any case my exhaust is sealed.

I am considering having a custom exhaust downpipe made out of thinner metal that will transfer sound so that the turbo noise can come through it. I may remove the muffler while retaining the resonator if that will help make the turbo louder. The engine is loud enough for me; I just want turbo noise.

This was totally worth the hour spent removing the inner pipe. Imma firin' mah turbo! WOOO WOOO! :o

Below are some pictures of the pipe on a spare engine I have. I was tempted to use the damaged flex pipe in the last picture to get more sound out, but then I don't want the exhaust escaping, either.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TdXLhyMOjFI/AAAAAAAACOo/uMNDvgBFYSE/s800/1980300sd110.jpg)(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TdXLpWGx9CI/AAAAAAAACOs/IYHDGJrDQ-c/s800/1980300sd111.jpg)(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_QRWdX16W3c0/TdXLzB9W4zI/AAAAAAAACOw/Porv6psSaBg/s800/1980300sd112.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: 1980sdga on 20 May 2011, 01:17 AM
I have an SRT4 neon which makes a LOT of turbo noise. It's also a manual transmission and has an externally vented BOV so it makes lots of weird noises...

It came from the factory with no mufflers, only a chambered (Kind of dimpled) exhaust and a cat.  The turbo acts as a muffler.  I'll bet an SD would sound good with only one loud muffler as long as it didn't drone.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 20 May 2011, 09:15 AM
I think that leaving in the first muffler (resonator) would quiet down the drone, while leaving off the rear muffler would allow the turbo noise to come through louder.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 20 May 2011, 09:40 AM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 20 May 2011, 09:15 AM
I think that leaving in the first muffler (resonator) would quiet down the drone, while leaving off the rear muffler would allow the turbo noise to come through louder.

Well I can tell you that having a straight pipe in place of the resonator is just as loud as having no exhaust system at all.  Ran my W115 that way for a couple years. :P
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 27 May 2011, 08:42 PM
Last weekend I decided to install the new wooden instrument panel cover that I purchased from Germany. You'll remember that the manufacturer forgot to add the hole for the clock knob, forcing me to drill it myself. I measured the shaft of the clock knob with calipers and found it to be the metric equivalent of slightly larger than 1/4". I purchased a 1/4" brad point drill bit which is meant to give clean cuts in wood for dowels.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-UR1OMFdB-eY/Tdsp-wcb3II/AAAAAAAACQM/Bx63nUziq4M/s800/1980300sd113.jpg)

I used a piece of scrap wood trim to practice on. Before drilling I laid a piece of masking tape over the finished side of the wood. Drilling from the front, the bit grabbed the lacquer and chipped it. Drilling from the front with the bit spinning in reverse cut through the lacquer without chipping it, but it left the edges rough. Drilling from the backside with the finished surface of the wood pressed against another piece of wood caused the lacquer to chip. Drilling from the backside, then reversing the rotation of the drill once I got near the lacquer made a perfect cut (hole on the far left).
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-keZHtX19R4A/TdsqAnbAZmI/AAAAAAAACQQ/oHFe9QpvrMc/s800/1980300sd114.jpg)

Feeling confident that I could drill the hole, I placed a piece of masking tape over the area where the hole needed to be cut.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Imrx9_trDfU/TdsqGJ4LSeI/AAAAAAAACQU/_VXZTt7cW28/s800/1980300sd115.jpg)

The area where the hole needed to be drilled is concave, so it was difficult to find a place on the wooden block to rest it.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qvDQyd43aXI/TdsqJLoDzNI/AAAAAAAACQY/dJsEe3LgA54/s800/1980300sd116.jpg)

I drilled from the backside but got distracted and forgot to reverse the direction of the drill bit when I reached the lacquer. I could feel a cracking sound when the bit went through. I turned over the wooden cover, removed the masking tape, and found that the lacquer had chipped! Then to top it off, when I was using the 1/4" rotary tool bit to make the hole slightly larger for the clock knob, the bit slipped out of the hole and gouged the lacquer!
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-gz6X5CBVZfE/TdsqLWU48mI/AAAAAAAACQc/2TiZutc2LQM/s800/1980300sd117.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 27 May 2011, 09:02 PM
Fortunately, I had already purchased Polycrylic lacquer for sealing the insides of the hole.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-wl7ubW2tGCc/TdsqR0l330I/AAAAAAAACQg/stpcleRWERo/s800/1980300sd118.jpg)

With a fine brush, I added the lacquer to the blemished areas. It took several applications, waiting two hours and sanding with 800 grit sandpaper between each coat.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-55YRdLBafwY/TdsqUsNVxrI/AAAAAAAACQk/YhC2eF4Q-l0/s800/1980300sd119.jpg)

While the lacquer was drying I decided I would do something else productive. I need to get rid of the green coolant and I have a metal coolant reservoir that I had removed from a 6.9 to replace the plastic one in my car. The paint looked bad so I removed it with paint stripper. I then took steel wool to clean up the hose fittings. I noticed that this made them very shiny! The reservoir is made of brass, which looks great when polished. I had a little bit of aluminum polish and steel wool, so I polished it up, then waxed. I am very happy with the results!
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/--V75iGYIa-U/TdsqXLDeUBI/AAAAAAAACQo/XCPf0K4GCYM/s800/1980300sd120.jpg)(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-b09sbjKgShA/TdsqaPWvwQI/AAAAAAAACQs/TYJCWvYTZKQ/s800/1980300sd121.jpg)

Lacquer tends to shrink and if it is applied too heavily it will pull away at the edges and tends to fall out. It was quite time-consuming and difficult to apply. When the edges would pull away I would have to take small amounts of lacquer and let it seep into the cracks. Sanding had to be done delicately or it would lift the filled edges and I would be back to filling with more lacquer. Once the surface was level I sanded the area with 1500 grit sandpaper.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-RZxQu181H8M/Tdsqb-4eRCI/AAAAAAAACQw/4gWJPi1UoCI/s800/1980300sd122.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 27 May 2011, 09:20 PM
After all of the sanding marks were gone I was left with a matte surface. I used rubbing compound over this area and polished until the surface was smooth.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Jiowx6p0vfM/TdsqdF2SHDI/AAAAAAAACQ0/_j_hELgvGoU/s800/1980300sd123.jpg)

Next I used Meguiar's Deep Crystal Polish over the entire piece. This made it very glossy and removed the surface imperfections. After the polish I used Meguiar's Gold Class Wax. The damage from the rotary bit is no longer visible and the chipped area is almost invisible.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-9PJ0mX-jH7E/TdsqfQX8KqI/AAAAAAAACQ4/iVmMf4y9_20/s800/1980300sd124.jpg)

The clock knob fits through with precision and almost no play.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-P-2FcBp4BMU/TdsqjNM_XEI/AAAAAAAACQ8/9pVqQNRCgW4/s800/1980300sd125.jpg)

I felt much better once the piece was repaired. I shouldn't have had to drill the hole, especially since it is there in the seller's display photos. This was my first time working with wood and lacquers.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-IqM20NDw7m0/TdsqlmPGZyI/AAAAAAAACRA/PTLn46Ycots/s800/1980300sd126.jpg)

I had another nasty surprise along the way. As can be expected, there really aren't any dress-up items made for the W116 chassis--however, this sedan shares some parts with the R107 and W123, so sometimes they interchange. This wooden instrument panel cover is actually for a R107 chassis, not a W116 chassis. I found that the mounting rods were much too long to accept the threaded extensions from the W116 cover.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-YWBY1YzPpiI/TeBFVQ5skaI/AAAAAAAACRQ/ZIIykUKkfm0/s800/1980300sd127.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 27 May 2011, 09:39 PM
I had to use a steel ruler and very precisely cut down the plastic rods to the size of the ones from the original cover. I then drilled a hole through the center of each and threaded in the mounting rods.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-espM1NIbjQo/TeBFjvouu3I/AAAAAAAACRU/Ac-TnsqyK4k/s800/1980300sd128.jpg)

I cleaned the instrumentation. I had a spare instrument cluster with a new dash light dimmer that I installed. I also repaired the odometer. The pot metal gear was slipping on its shaft. I wasn't able to remove the shaft because the end was crimped, so I tapped the shaft out a couple of millimeters, which caused the pot metal gear to wedge itself tightly onto the shaft, thus fixing the slipping gear and restoring the function of the odometer. I installed the assembled instrument cluster so that I could get to work the next day.

After work the next day I removed the instrument cluster with the battery still hooked up. I had the ignition switch off and didn't think there would be any electricity reaching the cluster. I was wrong and the cluster started to smoke. I took apart the cluster and found that the conductor strip between the temperature and oil gauge had melted. This was very disheartening because it had the new dash light dimmer, which is soldered to the piece and I am no electrician (though working on this car is teaching me to be a master of all trades). Some day I will repair it. I ended up using the original gauge piece, removing the broken dimmer and splicing the two dimmer wires together, thus bypassing it.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-thUrw5uBLz4/TeBFt90HOeI/AAAAAAAACRY/qPIF7ehJXGs/s800/1980300sd129.jpg)

I found a set of Pioneer speakers in a 300SD at the wrecking yard for $1.50 each. They fit in the openings okay, though one of the tabs needed to be trimmed off and someone removed the tabs on the speaker covers, which may have been in the way, so I can't guarantee these are a perfect fit, but they sound nice for the price!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Zr24yQXJG-E/TeBF2weTBfI/AAAAAAAACRc/p2PVS86_VVs/s800/1980300sd130.jpg)

Here is the model number of the speakers if anyone is interested (Pioneer TS-G4641R).
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-D_ygCFnn6Z4/TeBF79CW3BI/AAAAAAAACRg/9JFKxdiSuhU/s800/1980300sd131.jpg)

I ordered a new dashboard cover, so with the instrument panel installed and the dash cleaned up I cut and pasted the Velcro mounting strips.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jt7u3OhLQJk/TeBGC26fNHI/AAAAAAAACRk/uWMPr-HJQyY/s800/1980300sd132.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 27 May 2011, 09:56 PM
As you can see, I am very precise in my measurements.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-T5OCQuLrnjA/TeBGKYF6IJI/AAAAAAAACRo/fmi-haLRY5Y/s800/1980300sd133.jpg)

Here is the instrument panel in place. I am ecstatic with how it looks! All of the gauges are functional, the dash lights finally work, and the clock even keeps accurate time!
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-i-WUeXwP9Hc/TeBHJB0pcYI/AAAAAAAACSA/3Xnd15LAGWQ/s800/1980300sd134.jpg)

Here is the dashboard cover installed. I ordered it from Dash Designs in Tempe, Arizona ( http://www.dashdesigns.com/ (http://www.dashdesigns.com/) ). It is a perfect fit and is the highest-quality cover I have ever seen. I ordered mine in the dark brown velour with saddle 300 SD logo. I also made sure to let them know to NOT cut a hole for the climate control sensor. The only complaint I have is that the "D" was coming unraveled and I had to rethread parts of it. The cost before shipping was $55.90.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-aLSX6OPgNqs/TeBGQcYq8YI/AAAAAAAACRs/tzoqAXfg_ro/s800/1980300sd135.jpg)

The original dashboard wood was badly cracked and chipped. I had a spare set of wood in almost mint condition that I installed.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-yM7LJd6o9fI/TeBGYHcUUTI/AAAAAAAACRw/1UFAHWRS3pk/s800/1980300sd136.jpg)

This is a personalized placard that my roommate gave me. It was a great gift and ties in with the fact that this is a very unique car. It is perfectly centered on the wood and if I were to cut the extra slot for the center vent slider it would fit perfectly between the top of the wood and the placard.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xLmOUgbw4eQ/TeBGhysbbpI/AAAAAAAACR0/IQM09GCZPp0/s800/1980300sd137.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 27 May 2011, 10:09 PM
I'm gradually becoming less and less embarrassed of the interior. I'm not doing bad for being on a very small budget. I'm hoping to find some better tan seat skins so that I can make my two-tone skins to match the tan with brown door panels.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-4ntIZ_7G5LM/TeBGmvSSpYI/AAAAAAAACR4/gJ2ckU36GaM/s800/1980300sd138.jpg)

It's an improvement from how it looked a few months ago!
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-jhu3HW5HxHg/TeBmzpJCFlI/AAAAAAAACSM/x45R-LL1g5w/s800/1980300sd6.jpg)

When I was at Pick-N-Pull there was a W123 chassis 300D there with tan speaker covers. I thought they would look nice in my car, so I got them to replace the black ones. They are more of a Fischer-Price tan, but they match the carpet and I like the look.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-swRe-ANn7xA/TeBGtIap6dI/AAAAAAAACR8/twP_gsA4JAY/s800/1980300sd139.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: KenM on 28 May 2011, 02:57 AM
It's looking a lot better Squiggle, hats off to you mate for having the guts to dive in feet first when you're not sure what you're doing, nice work I'd say.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: jbrasile on 28 May 2011, 03:44 PM
Super job Squiggle!!!

I love the dash cover! Will order one for my 78 450SEL to protect its perfect dash.

Tks,

Joe
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: 1980sdga on 28 May 2011, 05:23 PM
Looks good!  having a nice looking dash makes all the difference. You're looking at it all the time.

You can just polish your star and call it a day now ;D
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: koan on 28 May 2011, 05:57 PM
Nice job on the cluster wood work.

Just about impossible to put clean holes through veneers, the "W" bit is the right type to use. A drill press helps enormously, can feed the bit in gradually and score the veneer, don't have the same control with a hand drill.

An excellent recovery job though.

Now you've learnt number one rule, always disconnect the battery ground before doing anything electrical.

At the very least it stops the frustration of blown fuses and then finding replacements, at best it prevents the sort of damage you experienced - it could have been a lot worse.

koan
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: oscar on 28 May 2011, 10:12 PM
Squiggle, that looks excellent.  Excellent fix on the cluster woodwork too  8)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 16 June 2011, 08:54 AM
Man, this looks great.  I'm really tempted to try the same thing on mine even with the hassles you have to go through.

I need to get one of those wood shifters too...where'd you find yours?

Here's another piece of wood you might consider adding:
(http://casey.shobe.info/images/Interests/Cars/wood_horn_cover.png)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: TJ 450 on 16 June 2011, 09:54 AM
How did I miss the tranny swap? :o

Great work with that. I like the fact that the 300SDs have a beefed up transmission at the input end, and there are many bolts on the flex plate hub at the crankshaft.

The interior is looking great.

Tim
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 16 June 2011, 03:01 PM
Can you let me know where I can get one of those instrument clusters?  I know I saw one on eBay before but I don't see it there now...
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: jbrasile on 16 June 2011, 09:35 PM
Uhhh, guys.... I don't mean to be a pain, but here is some food for thought...

Taste is a very personal thing but... MB went through great lengths to make their cars as safe as possible in the case of a collision and part of that safety engineering went into creating an impact absorbing steering wheel that would minimize injury. Replacing the horn pad with a solid piece of wood maybe pleasing to the eye but it is not exactly the best choice as far as safety is concerned , just something to think about...


Tks,

Joe
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 17 June 2011, 07:21 AM
Quote from: jbrasile on 16 June 2011, 09:35 PM
Taste is a very personal thing but... MB went through great lengths to make their cars as safe as possible in the case of a collision and part of that safety engineering went into creating an impact absorbing steering wheel that would minimize injury. Replacing the horn pad with a solid piece of wood maybe pleasing to the eye but it is not exactly the best choice as far as safety is concerned , just something to think about...

1.  If you have a seat belt on, you're almost certainly not going to hit the wheel.
2.  If you hit the wheel, the horn pad still has the same surface area.  No increased danger from that aspect.
3.  The steering wheel is still just as collapsible upon impact as MB designed it.  The potential damage from the wheel itself is much greater likelihood than the horn pad.

The wood finish would definitely be harder than the original slightly spongy stuff, but I doubt that would make that much of a safety difference, realistically.  It would still definitely be a safer setup than going with a Nardi wheel, which are also pretty darn tempting:

(http://www.fivestarwebdesign.com/ebay/mercedes-280sl/A3.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: WiSeGuYY on 17 June 2011, 06:23 PM
wahhh what a topic , I'm here for sometime now but i don no how i missed this one , Scott you are amazing and all you guys  wonderfull inputs and very stimulating work.
I'm offered a W108 which i dream of model 68 originally came with the normal 250 engine , long ago in history the car have now the 300  litter diesel engine from later model turning to a 300 SD before i read this article i was going to change the engine back to petrol ( i didn't see myself driving a chimney) all diesel engines here smoke badly and not a good sign , plus the loud sound of engine plus my knowledge of poor output of diesel engines made me reluctant to keep this 5 cylinder diesel engine.
need your openion Scott how should i proceed from here?

REGARDS FROM CAIRO EGYPT.

TAREK
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 18 June 2011, 12:56 AM
Thanks for the comments!

The wooden steering wheel pieces are nice. I don't have plans on installing them because I like the softness of the steering wheel and the way it is designed to catch the driver, though I do wear the seat belt. The Ed Nardi steering wheels seem that they would be harsh on impact, however I imagine the aluminum would give with enough force.

I tried unsuccessfully several times to order a zebrano wood shift knob for the W107/W116/W123 chassis as they are listed for sale in several places, however all places were several months on back order. I was fortunate to find mine as new old stock on eBay.

This is the company from which I purchased the wooden instrument panel cover: http://cgi.ebay.com/Tachogehause-Mercedes-W107-W-107-SL-SLC-echt-Wurzelholz-/360171222339?pt=Autoteile_Zubeh%C3%B6r&hash=item53dbe0b543 (http://cgi.ebay.com/Tachogehause-Mercedes-W107-W-107-SL-SLC-echt-Wurzelholz-/360171222339?pt=Autoteile_Zubeh%C3%B6r&hash=item53dbe0b543) . They are currently only showing burled wood as being available, but one might inquire about the zebrano. I would recommend asking for one with the hole for the clock knob, though I imagine they are no longer made with this hole. If money is no object, they also sell the inner housing of the instrument panel with wood veneer.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 18 June 2011, 01:05 AM
Quote from: WiSeGuYY on 17 June 2011, 06:23 PM
wahhh what a topic , I'm here for sometime now but i don no how i missed this one , Scott you are amazing and all you guys  wonderfull inputs and very stimulating work.
I'm offered a W108 which i dream of model 68 originally came with the normal 250 engine , long ago in history the car have now the 300  litter diesel engine from later model turning to a 300 SD before i read this article i was going to change the engine back to petrol ( i didn't see myself driving a chimney) all diesel engines here smoke badly and not a good sign , plus the loud sound of engine plus my knowledge of poor output of diesel engines made me reluctant to keep this 5 cylinder diesel engine.
need your openion Scott how should i proceed from here?

REGARDS FROM CAIRO EGYPT.

TAREK

Tarek,

It is good to hear from you. I enjoy Mercedes diesel engines and prefer them over the petrol engines. The turbocharged 5 cylinder engines are great and give good performance. If everything is in order the engines should give little to no smoke, though they are noisy at idle.

If the 250 has a turbocharged 5 cylinder engine then it should have plenty of power for normal driving. A non-turbo 5 cylinder engine would probably drive much like an economy car. I have a 4 cylinder diesel engine in a 1968 200D and it is peppy and has decent acceleration, though it needs to floored at several times.

Replacing the fuel filters, using fresh fuel, adjusting the valves to factory specifications, glow plugs in good condition, and a clean air filter will usually keep them running well with good power and little smoke, as long as there isn't much wear inside the engine.

It would be interesting to see how the diesel engine was made to work in that car. If the body was not modified then going back to a petrol engine might not be difficult. You could possibly even install a 280SE 4.5/450SEL V8 engine if you'd like a fast car.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: WiSeGuYY on 18 June 2011, 06:58 AM
THANKS for the advice SQUIGGLE DOG , I'm still in dilemma about what to buy , today I'm promised to see another W108 with petrol engine ( I'll write about the feed back later after i see it) but your review give me more strength to go for that one with the diesel engine ( it is 5 cylinders but don't know if turbocharged or not) but the Mercedes star shine on the engine LOL i saw it running in front of me on highway ( owner wanted to show off as marketing his car) was impressive actually . thanks again for the tips of what to do if i get the deal done and review my options but i saw an original 250 petrol ( the model of the car and another 300 a bit more expensive and no v8 yet i wish to find)

REGARDS

TAREK
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 20 June 2011, 03:33 PM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 18 June 2011, 12:56 AM
I imagine the aluminum would give with enough force.
Is it really aluminum?  Ick. I would hope, at the cost, that it's stainless steel.

Quote
I tried unsuccessfully several times to order a zebrano wood shift knob for the W107/W116/W123 chassis as they are listed for sale in several places, however all places were several months on back order. I was fortunate to find mine as new old stock on eBay.

This is the company from which I purchased the wooden instrument panel cover: http://cgi.ebay.com/Tachogehause-Mercedes-W107-W-107-SL-SLC-echt-Wurzelholz-/360171222339?pt=Autoteile_Zubeh%C3%B6r&hash=item53dbe0b543 (http://cgi.ebay.com/Tachogehause-Mercedes-W107-W-107-SL-SLC-echt-Wurzelholz-/360171222339?pt=Autoteile_Zubeh%C3%B6r&hash=item53dbe0b543) . They are currently only showing burled wood as being available, but one might inquire about the zebrano. I would recommend asking for one with the hole for the clock knob, though I imagine they are no longer made with this hole. If money is no object, they also sell the inner housing of the instrument panel with wood veneer.

That seller said he doesn't have anything for W116, and I didn't write back asking about zebrano for the W107 which seems to be what you ended up with, because I found another source!  Check it out this inquiry about W116 parts:

"Hi Casey, It's all available in Zebrano but on special order: Instrument cluster $ 395.00, Horn Pad $ 150.00, Shift Knob $ 69.00, we also carry chrome Wheel Well Moldings at $ 95.00 a set of 4 and of course all the rest of the normal items like floor mats door wind deflectors and wheels in silver or chrome."

I expressed some concern about aftermarket wheel well moldings not fitting well, and got this response:

"in regards to the 116 Fendertrim you're talking to the original importer and there is no if's or but's on our trim set for your model!!"

The website for anyone interested is http://www.slaccessories.com - I was directed there after sending an inquiry to the seller of that horn pad above asking where he got it, since his only one sold some time ago (and was not suited for a W116 anyways).
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: jjb-w116-hu on 23 June 2011, 11:09 PM
is this site legit? it all sounds too goo to be true :)
and the scann'ed pages of catalogue doesn't give me the most secure feeling in my stomach.... anyone stateside verify they're kosher, bc it would be good for sure!
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 01 July 2011, 08:09 PM
Don't ask...
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-N5pNXEs_YHU/Tf4fA3CHRUI/AAAAAAAACUI/N6TtJZkP5DY/s800/1980300sd140.jpg)

The sliding roof was opening slowly and needed to be helped to open and close. I thought it would be nice to have a functioning sunroof this summer, so I bought the special Mercedes grease. I intended to clean and lubricate the parts, however, there were complications that caused me to take apart half of the interior and drop the sliding roof tray. The roof insulation fell down and would not allow the sliding roof to open fully and parts of it were bent and causing it to jam.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-CQ4qfKAw33Q/Tf4fP0lYNKI/AAAAAAAACUQ/1QSLDnpMBgs/s800/1980300sd141.jpg)(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-8xBYt8c0An8/Tf4fFnvYBiI/AAAAAAAACUM/yIAYNtw9HuA/s800/1980300sd142.jpg)

When the sliding roof tray was coming out, the front rubber drain hoses broke. Removing the assembly was very nerve-racking and I could have easily damaged everything of value in the interior, including the wooden shift knob, the dashboard components, and the vinyl covered upholstery. The front seats needed to be reclined completely and anything of value covered with padding.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cYTaUq5rQmk/Tf4fUBxIHPI/AAAAAAAACUU/hBJukHDd_fM/s800/1980300sd143.jpg)

I decided that since the sliding roof was already removed I might as well convert it to manual, though I had hoped to take my time and do a more thorough job. I had a sliding roof assembly removed from a W123, which appeared to be identical to the one in my W116.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-nml7H-aMUrk/Tf4fY83YOQI/AAAAAAAACUY/vdooGKs1eSA/s800/1980300sd144.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 01 July 2011, 08:17 PM
It turned out that even though the W116 and W123 sliding roof trays are stamped from the same dies, the W116 has shorter rear mounting tabs and extra metal spot welded to the underside for the headliner. >:(
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-f8iUG5bhHag/Tf4ffRSIOGI/AAAAAAAACUc/0K9VtOL6If0/s800/1980300sd145.jpg)

What a shame since my tray was rusty and the W123 tray wasn't. Some day I will replace it with a less rusty one, but I was in a time crunch to beat the weather and also to drive to Utah the next week.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-GGddGdsN_Uk/Tf4fj2V6uhI/AAAAAAAACUg/W0YiEieT95Q/s800/1980300sd146.jpg)

I brushed on Rust Doctor since it will keep it from rusting through until I replace the tray.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_pkORgrbUsM/Tf4fm36IdFI/AAAAAAAACUk/Jn6U2vO7zjY/s800/1980300sd147.jpg)

The brackets that hold in the felts are different between the manual and power roofs. The inner brackets are manual as they don't have the extra guides.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Ogii1nZJi-w/Tf4fuJ_p1sI/AAAAAAAACUo/YGWNn8fs62Y/s800/1980300sd148.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 01 July 2011, 08:23 PM
The headliner was coming off on the inner edges.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-v8-fS15Vtos/Tf4fxQF7sfI/AAAAAAAACUs/D0PS6saK6TQ/s800/1980300sd149.jpg)

I sprayed adhesive and attached the headliner as necessary.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Pck7xEHXoVQ/Tf4fzWll5EI/AAAAAAAACUw/LakXMHSMlgM/s800/1980300sd150.jpg)

Because I couldn't use the tray from the W123, I had to cut off these lift brackets. They are what make the roof raise when the handle is turned.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FeEKpbsmzwY/Tf4f2295W-I/AAAAAAAACU0/LL_3OcSC4Ps/s800/1980300sd151.jpg)

They were spot welded to the tray so I had to grind the welds from the backside and punch them out.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-WSM55-qbz3E/Tf4f5r8V9SI/AAAAAAAACU4/G5OKxfQwZnM/s800/1980300sd152.jpg)

Here they are, ready to install.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-XhVrlIjb1O0/Tf4f9T3I2wI/AAAAAAAACU8/5quNEZFWQq4/s800/1980300sd153.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: jbrasile on 01 July 2011, 08:58 PM
Squiggle, you are a brave man!

Removing the sunroof tray with the windshield and rear window in place is not for the faint at heart... you are right to be nervous, one awkward move and you can loose a seat, dash or worse.

Just read your other post and had to edit mine.... yes it was too good to be true.... so you are converting your original electric sunroof to manual? Very interesting project!

One piece of advice, take out the seats front and rear so you can maneuver the hardware easier inside the car and take your time refitting the headliner so it is nice and straight.

Good luck and keep us posted!

Tks,

Joe
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 01 July 2011, 09:05 PM
The lift brackets are easy to position as they are made to fit precisely on the tray. Notice the screws for fine tuning. I drilled 5/32" holes in the brackets, then in the tray using the positioned brackets as guides. I then applied POR seam filler in the area to keep water from leaking in, then riveted them in place with 5/32" pop rivets.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FFSoip7M-Cs/Tf4gBg8uCPI/AAAAAAAACVA/Zw-OXJ4C-Tw/s800/1980300sd154.jpg)

Putting the assembly back in was tricky. Once it was in the car I laid on my back, lifted it with my legs, then started putting in the screws.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-1v93CE62qtM/Tf4gIj4oAjI/AAAAAAAACVE/ItT5kWI2fIQ/s800/1980300sd155.jpg)

I removed the components from the W116 sliding roof, then installed the ones from the W123 roof. There's a lot of fine tuning at this point. I made sure to grease all necessary points, though I was using felt sliders instead of plastic in the front since that's all I had to replace the broken plastic ones. The roof takes a bit of effort to move since I need to replace the plastic slides and get rid of the felt ones. Once I have those replaced it will slide easier. There are only 4 plastic slides on a manual roof as opposed to 8 on a power roof!
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Yi6lmBbfjac/Tg0sFaavaUI/AAAAAAAACVc/UJ7dnFsKVs8/s800/1980300sd156.jpg)

I removed the cable tube and power motor for the sliding roof while I was at it. I cut the front drain tubes to get a clean edge to attach them to the tray. Unfortunately, the rubber was hardened and they split when I tried. I looked up the part number (A 003 997 63 82), which is $36/meter MSRP at The Classic Center. Each side is 1070mm long, so I needed 3 meters. Ouch. It turned out that it was not in stock and they weren't able to get anything longer than cut 1 meter lengths at the time.

A few days went by and The Classic Center was still having trouble obtaining the hose, so I went to a hose specialty place, however they did not have any comparable hose. The closest thing they had was 1/2" heater hose, which would not have stretched over the oval drain tubes and would have been too thick to come out the ends of the A pillars.

I then went to my local Mercedes Auto Service to see if they had the hose I needed. I parked next to a black W116 300SD that looked nearly identical to mine. It even had the same grille badges, and in the same places! Once again, all they had was heater hose. The shop owner said that he had a W116 300SD behind the shop and that even though he doesn't normally let people go back there, he would let me pull the drain hoses from it. I went back and just before I started pulling the headliner I noticed that the car didn't have a sliding roof!

I told the shop owner and he said that I could try the W123 he had back there. I was able to get the front drain tubes out and the rubber was still supple! What's more, the shop owner said I could have them free of charge! I got home and then realized that the W123 drain hoses are only 1000mm, which was much too short. I got on the EPC and noticed that the rear drain hoses from a W126 are 1490mm each, which was more than enough!

I went back to the shop and I pulled the rear drain hoses from a W126 they had. They even had the 45 degree angle cut on the ends! I cut them down to 1070mm and snaked them down from the openings in the tops of the A pillars. I had to twist them a little to get them past a certain point, then I reached through holes in the A-pillars below the dashboard to help position, followed by a screwdriver through the door dome light sensor openings to put the ends of the hoses near the holes, then worked the ends out of the holes between the front doors and fenders. I then lubricated the ends, then carefully pushed them onto the tubes with a rag and pliers. The Classic Center still wasn't sure about being able to get the hose, so I canceled the order--which saved me quite a bit of money, especially considering the shop didn't charge me for the W126 hose and even gave me some needed W116 rear speakers screws!

I was glad to have the proper drain hoses since I was having to use ridiculous ACCII sensor hoses routed out the front windows for the roof to drain. The headliner panel from the W123 roof matched perfectly! I have to admit that installing the header panels around the headliner was tricky.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-tK6Z_tmQ55Y/Tg5UZYzI5VI/AAAAAAAACV0/K1ssyh3rKyc/s800/1980300sd157.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: jbrasile on 01 July 2011, 09:14 PM
I'm too late! You've already got it done!

Congratulations, looks like if came out of the Sindelfingen assembly line!

Next time if you need anything out of the Classic Center let me know, we have a very close relationship with them and can get things resolved pretty quickly.

Tks,

Joe
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 01 July 2011, 09:25 PM
Yeah, I had a short time frame to complete the job! What was supposed to be a half-hour lubrication ended up being several days of aggravation, but I'm glad it's done. I'm liking how my car is coming along. Thanks for the offer on ordering parts.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 01 July 2011, 09:37 PM
I also installed the brass coolant reservoir. The fitting at the bottom is a smaller diameter than the plastic reservoir had, so I had to cut off the flared end of the hose, but it worked.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Z9p-81xSGWw/Tg5sRUOsjnI/AAAAAAAACWA/TRyN0man7TE/s800/1980300sd158.jpg)

I was tired of the hot air coming into the cab at this time of year, so I removed the ACCII servo, then removed the ridiculous metal pipes that ran from the left side of the firewall, over to the servo on the right side of the firewall, then back to the left side of the firewall to the engine block. I cut off a piece of the pipe assembly so that I could attach a new heater valve to it since all 3 metal ones I had were leaking. I used part number A 107 830 05 84, which was brand new, had the star on it, even came with the vacuum pod, and I was only charged $20 for it! It's made to work off of vacuum, but I plugged the end of the pod, then disconnected the lever so I could move it by hand. Eventually I will do a full manual heat conversion.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-9w6-ln4TzS4/Tg5sWaqtmkI/AAAAAAAACWE/ZAiM4zxiw0E/s800/1980300sd159.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 01 July 2011, 10:14 PM
I put well over 2,000 miles on my 300SD this last week. I drove from Tacoma, Washington to Heber City, Utah to visit family. Because of the sliding roof fiasco I ended up leaving much later than I wanted. In order to get there on time for the family reunion I drove 15 hours without resting. The original plan was to stop and sleep halfway through.

I brought my dog with me, just like last year when I drove my 1968 200D fintail. He is a good passenger. When he is in the car he wears a harness which is attached to the seat belt. Dogs also need to be protected in a crash.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MDdz9zguhSk/Tg6I66JNBSI/AAAAAAAACWM/Ncjiljvbq5s/s800/utah201129.jpg)

Here's why the arm rests were designed as they were:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-tvkzbkl_ukY/Tg6Jc6E_fEI/AAAAAAAACWQ/vpaCcJPLyb4/s800/utah201131.jpg)

An interesting thing happened halfway through Idaho around 11 PM on I-84 East. I noticed a car on fire on the side of the road. No one was stopped to help, but the car in front of me pulled over and I pulled over in front of it. We ran toward the car calling out if anyone was in there. I ran around the car and tried to look through the windows from a distance to see if anyone was inside. Then the car erupted into flames, so if anyone was inside they were a goner. The back door was open, but there was no one around. After some time the fire department came around. I wonder what the story was.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-W-2YvzRbPrc/Tg6JnNARhPI/AAAAAAAACWU/Uis4bgBquQE/s800/idahocarfire24jun11.jpg)

Here's a video of the car fire: http://youtu.be/S3G267wn_MU (http://youtu.be/S3G267wn_MU)

Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 02 July 2011, 01:01 AM
I got to my mother's house and slept for 6 hours before driving another 2 1/2 hours to the reunion near Price. I did a lot of driving when I was down there and had no break-downs. The engine didn't seem to use any oil at all. There was a noticeable loss in power at high elevations. It cost me about 6 tanks of diesel. Here are some videos of driving through the Heber City area: oldhousemidway.MPG (http://youtu.be/ZxvziGiPVIY) and mainstreetmidway.MPG (http://youtu.be/6QTwrW5AsJ0) and deercreekdrive.MPG (http://youtu.be/BlBwgf7pNp0)

On the way back I drove 10 hours, slept at a Wal-Mart Super Center, then drove another 3 hours until I was home. The car was very comfortable, however, I don't feel like doing much driving again for a while!
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: gavin116 on 02 July 2011, 04:05 AM
Hi Casey

Once again a good write up and great pictures too.  Thanks for the info about using a rear 126 drain hose.  I need to have Mrs Whites sunroof pulled, sand blasted, repaired as necessary followed by painting, new seals etc. and then reinstalling.  Keeping with the electric system though.  At the same time, I'll go with a new hood lining.  Your cream coloured lining doesn't show up the age and dirt as much as the white.

Sounds like a great road trip you just covered.  Wish I had the time to do similar.  Thinking about doing a Spain road trip during the Olympics.  Catch the ferry down to Bilbao and then drive down to Granada where our house is.  That trip is about 1200km, or 700miles give or take and I'l do it over a few days - lots of interesting places to visit.  I think it will be a great trip, but I must get that air con recommissioned first.

Keep up the good work.

Gavin
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 03 July 2011, 01:21 AM
Quote from: jjb-w116-hu on 23 June 2011, 11:09 PM
is this site legit? it all sounds too goo to be true :)
and the scann'ed pages of catalogue doesn't give me the most secure feeling in my stomach.... anyone stateside verify they're kosher, bc it would be good for sure!

I believe that Squiggle Dog's instrument cluster is actually from them.  I found out about the site by contacting a guy on eBay who had previously had an auction for a wooden horn pad.  Here's what he had to say:

"I bought lots of 107 trim from an outfit in Texas that has vanished -- www.benzwood.com.

But maybe three years ago I bought an amazing 107 instrument cluster bezel in wood from http://www.slaccessories.com/CatalogPage.php?Page=26

I'd suggest you talk to those guys, Signature Line. I was very happy with them, and the quality of the wood instr cluster bezel was astonishing. I just sold that cluster bezel."


Now, I don't know for sure, but it seems that somebody on this thread very recently acquired a W107 wood instrument cluster bezel, and had to do some modifications to get it fitted into their W116.  So I would hazard to guess that slaccessories.com is a good manufacturer.  I'll be giving them a chance once I have more spare funds!

(Squiggle, out of sheer curiosity, was the seller you bought the instrument cluster from usernamed "bigscreenbob"?)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 03 July 2011, 01:39 AM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 01 July 2011, 09:37 PM
I also installed the brass coolant reservoir. The fitting at the bottom is a smaller diameter than the plastic reservoir had, so I had to cut off the flared end of the hose, but it worked.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Z9p-81xSGWw/Tg5sRUOsjnI/AAAAAAAACWA/TRyN0man7TE/s800/1980300sd158.jpg)

That looks amazing.  Where did you find this?  I really want one in mine...

Quote
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-9w6-ln4TzS4/Tg5sWaqtmkI/AAAAAAAACWE/ZAiM4zxiw0E/s800/1980300sd159.jpg)

Wow, your drainage hoses are red??  Are those aftermarket replacements or something?  Mine are black.

I'm really glad you're on this site Squiggle Dog.  You bring a lot to it and I love that we share passion for the diesels.  I'm amazed time and time again by your abilities and wish I could be as competent working on my car.  Keep it up!

P.S.  Love the pictures of the dog in the car, especially the one where he's resting on the armrest. :)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 03 July 2011, 02:24 AM
The instrument panel wood came from Eris Car Design on German eBay: http://www.eris-car.com/shop/ (http://www.eris-car.com/shop/) (Tachoblende aus Zebrano H107TACHZ) (http://www.eris-car.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=159_160&products_id=634)

The brass coolant reservoirs are found in 6.9s and early W116s. They are painted black.

The original firewall drainage hoses were black and were split, but I had a set of new-looking red ones that I installed. They have two part numbers on them, one with ROT next to it, and the other with SCHWARZ next to it. So, they come out of the same mold, it just depends on what color they use. I don't know what the difference is.

Thanks for the comments, everyone!

Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 03 July 2011, 09:18 PM
Hey, is this the original color of your car?

(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/$(KGrHqYOKkQE3tSu-pqJBODJe2NhKg~~_3.JPG)

I must admit, I thought "I wonder why he would want *brown*, when I first read of your interest in the color, but this example is really beautiful.  It's on eBay right now and if I had the money in the bank, boy would I be happy to throw it away. ;)

(P.S.  Speaking of eBay, there's a $1700 (actual price, via buy it now) 1980 300SD with sunroof and no EGR near LA that you might be interested in on there right now, too.)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: jbrasile on 03 July 2011, 11:17 PM
Casey, this 450SE is simply gorgeous!!! I had seen the add and sent the link to a friend in Brazil who is looking for a pristine 450SE or SEL,  this car definitely fits the bill.

This shade of brown is really nice and makes all the chrome just sparkle.

Tks,

Joe
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 04 July 2011, 02:29 PM
I think that's the color. It was DB479 Walnut Brown. I want to have a dark beige similar to the bamboo seats from the center body line down. I saw that white 300SD, too.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: 1980sdga on 04 July 2011, 10:11 PM
I really like the brass reservoir. You ever thought about polishing the radiator header?
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 05 July 2011, 09:15 AM
Quote from: 1980sdga on 04 July 2011, 10:11 PM
I really like the brass reservoir. You ever thought about polishing the radiator header?

I plan on polishing it sometime.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 08 July 2011, 10:08 AM
Quote from: Raptelan on 20 June 2011, 03:33 PM
"Hi Casey, It's all available in Zebrano but on special order: Instrument cluster $ 395.00, Horn Pad $ 150.00, Shift Knob $ 69.00, we also carry chrome Wheel Well Moldings at $ 95.00 a set of 4 and of course all the rest of the normal items like floor mats door wind deflectors and wheels in silver or chrome."

Okay so upon further investigation, Signature Line has found that they can no longer get the W116 zebrano instrument cluster.  They can still get shifters,  horn bads, and chome fender moldings for the above listed prices.  I've asked them to look into whether they might be able to get a R107 cluster so that I can do the same modification as Squiggle Dog did to get this lovely addition in my car.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: dieselgeoff on 18 July 2011, 06:16 PM
if you still have the  Getrag trans i will buy it off you
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 19 July 2011, 03:08 PM
Quote from: dieselgeoff on 18 July 2011, 06:16 PM
if you still have the  Getrag trans i will buy it off you

I sold the transmission a while back (which is how I've been able to afford some of the repairs for my 300SD).
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: dieselgeoff on 19 July 2011, 05:42 PM
dam i have been looking all over for one of those things ......how did you get it?
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 20 July 2011, 06:35 PM
Quote from: dieselgeoff on 19 July 2011, 05:42 PM
dam i have been looking all over for one of those things ......how did you get it?

It was in the Pick-N-Pull from a Euro W123.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 11 August 2011, 08:16 PM
Sadly, I don't have much good news about the 300SD. Last year I purchased 5 used, matching, proper size tires with plenty of tread. Now the casings are coming apart, the tread is wavy, and the tires hop. When I drive the front end shimmies and the steering wheel vibrates. When I travel above 60 MPH the shaking is violent. Not long ago I replaced the steering box with a C&M rebuild and all suspension components are recent. The steering was perfect. Now the car pulls hard to the right and shimmies violently. The dealer won't even align the car until I buy new tires. So I've got to save up for new tires. I'm TIREd of dealing with used tires because even when they have plenty of tread they seem to dry rot and deteriorate in short time. Oh, I also found a big nail stuck in the tread of the front tire...

Also, the previous owner installed used, mismatched front calipers (one side is an ATE and the other side is a Bendix). All 4 rotors are polished and worn very thin. I have to put lots of pressure on the pedal to stop and the wheels tend to lock up. So I need to replace the calipers, rotors, and pads soon.

I noticed that the shock absorbers are starting to leak oil.

The rainy season will be here soon and I need to replace all of the weatherstripping so I'm not driving around in a leaking, fogged up car. This is going to cost some money.

Biodiesel is near $6 a gallon so now I have to use diesel. My last oil change cost $120 doing it myself.

There's something weird about the shape of the front fenders that won't allow me to completely bolt on the under-headlight overriders. I've tried different pairs, but it almost looks like the entire front end shifted from a previous crash or the front core support from another car was welded on...

The good news is that I just purchased a pair of complete new old stock taillights with bulb holders, so I will have new taillights with rubber seals to keep the trunk dry. I sold a pair of old Zenith carburetors that I had no use for for $150, then used that money to purchase the taillights, so it was a good trade with no out-of-pocket expense.

Oh, and I'm losing my job of 4 years next month due to my contract being taken over by a non-profit organization that hires disabled people. I'm too healthy and too able to keep my job. Thanks, Obama.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: jjb-w116-hu on 11 August 2011, 10:03 PM
hey squiggle,m sorry to hear bout your job my friend. what do you do?
was reading your post and wondered what is a C&M rebuild? I fear my steering box will also need similar treatment to get the steering just right.... even once all the susp / steering bits are done..

james
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: jbrasile on 11 August 2011, 10:55 PM
Squiggle,

No need  to get high end tires if you are on a budget but buying used is not a good idea.

Pads and rotors are not very expensive, neither are shocks.

You can get URO/APA seals for the doors, etc... and save some money there as well.

Let me know if you would like a quote on the parts.

Tks,

Joe
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 12 August 2011, 05:47 AM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 11 August 2011, 08:16 PM
Sadly, I don't have much good news about the 300SD. Last year I purchased 5 used, matching, proper size tires with plenty of tread. Now the casings are coming apart, the tread is wavy, and the tires hop. When I drive the front end shimmies and the steering wheel vibrates. When I travel above 60 MPH the shaking is violent. Not long ago I replaced the steering box with a C&M rebuild and all suspension components are recent. The steering was perfect. Now the car pulls hard to the right and shimmies violently. The dealer won't even align the car until I buy new tires. So I've got to save up for new tires. I'm TIREd of dealing with used tires because even when they have plenty of tread they seem to dry rot and deteriorate in short time. Oh, I also found a big nail stuck in the tread of the front tire...

I know you're not excited about used tires, but my Hankook's are pretty new and I plan on replacing them in the near future if you're interested in them.

Quote
Also, the previous owner installed used, mismatched front calipers (one side is an ATE and the other side is a Bendix). All 4 rotors are polished and worn very thin. I have to put lots of pressure on the pedal to stop and the wheels tend to lock up. So I need to replace the calipers, rotors, and pads soon.

I noticed that the shock absorbers are starting to leak oil.

The rainy season will be here soon and I need to replace all of the weatherstripping so I'm not driving around in a leaking, fogged up car. This is going to cost some money.

I sympathize with all of these things and feel your pain, been through the weatherstripping fun myself (new windscreen gaskets scheduled to be installed this Tuesday which will pretty much complete the job).

Quote
The good news is that I just purchased a pair of complete new old stock taillights with bulb holders, so I will have new taillights with rubber seals to keep the trunk dry. I sold a pair of old Zenith carburetors that I had no use for for $150, then used that money to purchase the taillights, so it was a good trade with no out-of-pocket expense.

Check out my thread - if you're interested in great condition euro taillights without side marker lights, I'd be happy to trade some money and them for yours.  Maybe it doesn't matter to some people but I'm a stickler for detail and find my car looks very strange with orange blocked-out parts there now.  On the bright side, at least it's not leaking anymore.

Quote
Oh, and I'm losing my job of 4 years next month due to my contract being taken over by a non-profit organization that hires disabled people. I'm too healthy and too able to keep my job. Thanks, Obama.

:(  That sucks.  Here's hoping you find another, better job, sooner than later!
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 12 August 2011, 03:41 PM
I forgot to mention that the driver seat belt buckle failed. I noticed that the seat belt would come undone randomly as I was driving. I would click it back into place, then it would pop out again. Now the buckle won't hold the seat belt at all. I am stretching the seat belt across to the passenger side buckle until I replace the one on the driver side. In fact, all of the seat belts have something wrong with them; either the reels don't reel in completely, or the webbing is frayed, or the buckles don't work, or they are really rusty.

The steering box came from C&M Hydraulics in Las Vegas, which I purchased through Autohaus AZ. They specialize in Mercedes-Benz steering box rebuilds.

I'd love to get a set of wide whitewalls (even if they are shaved), but it's probably not in the budget. I'd like to stick with as close to stock size as possible. I'll think about your Hankook tires, Casey. I already have a new OEM rear windshield seal, the trunk seal is good, and I have a set of 4 OEM door seals that should be as good as new after I glue them back together. I'll probably spend the money for an OEM front windshield seal. I hear so many horror stories about aftermarket rubber parts that I tend to shy away from them.

I prefer the USA taillights over Euro taillights, so I'll be sticking with my NOS USA taillights.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 12 August 2011, 05:26 PM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 12 August 2011, 03:41 PM
I'd love to get a set of wide whitewalls (even if they are shaved), but it's probably not in the budget. I'd like to stick with as close to stock size as possible. I'll think about your Hankook tires, Casey.

The Hankooks have a narrow whitewall, but the way they're installed those are currently facing inward.  I quite prefer whitewalls so it's unfortunate that the previous owner had the tires installed that way - I found a place that actually adds them onto the Vredestein Sprint Classics, which is what I'm probably going to end up buying.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 25 August 2011, 09:56 PM
One of my upcoming projects is to replace the car's weatherstripping so that the interior and trunk don't leak. Taillight seals for the W116 are around $80 each and were definitely needed (not to mention the lenses were aged).
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-KOtHii-rWBs/TlbtB0GsH_I/AAAAAAAAChI/81_p9RIEaHw/s800/1980300sd160.jpg)(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-eWwlfeR3d4Y/TlbkKjUfxCI/AAAAAAAACgI/llW2OTzSkRA/s800/1980300sd161.jpg)(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-AjN2sqGFsow/TlbkOyWD-QI/AAAAAAAACgM/f_Dik9gGFQM/s800/1980300sd162.jpg)

I had an old pair of Zenith carburetors I didn't need that I sold on craigslist for $150. Then I just happened to score a pair of brand new taillights complete with lenses, seals, metal housings, and bulb holders, new in the original boxes for $120 plus economy shipping. I was overjoyed to get a complete set of new taillights for less money than the seals alone would have cost, especially since a new light set would be about $1,400 from the dealer.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6pKuLIuI1Bs/TlbkU6xldNI/AAAAAAAACgQ/uus_iTAumLc/s800/1980300sd163.jpg)(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-rRFrm0FVVvA/TlbkYQrRoDI/AAAAAAAACgU/JQCgpko2TVg/s800/1980300sd164.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 25 August 2011, 09:58 PM
I was very relieved to see that the taillight mounting area wasn't rusty. My last three Mercedes were almost rusted away to nothing in this area. This car only needed some bubbled paint chipped off, some light wire brushing, and a coat of Rust Doctor in spots, followed by wax.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-qY7Q3hy8K6M/TlbkgXmJHJI/AAAAAAAACgY/O-qZJRYguOU/s800/1980300sd165.jpg)(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-yqfkQVoiyjM/TlbkmWY2yiI/AAAAAAAACgc/qkH96laz_D0/s800/1980300sd166.jpg)

I am very happy with how the new taillights look and once again I have succeeded to purchase high-dollar parts with very little income. Now I have to save up for an OEM front windshield seal and I can start sealing up the interior.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4IFZr3J8YFM/TlbkrkUSzYI/AAAAAAAACgg/iHe1m85oDAg/s800/1980300sd167.jpg)(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-K7z8nErX9TM/Tlbkxi4w0eI/AAAAAAAACgk/vdBMcmQF2Js/s800/1980300sd168.jpg)(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-AtGJrNuich8/Tlbk6GU-LyI/AAAAAAAACgo/tgu2B-ThtGw/s800/1980300sd169.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 25 August 2011, 10:02 PM
Last year I saw an ad on craigslist for some unique-looking wheels with snow tires. However, I could not afford them and they were nearly a two hours drive away.

This year they came back up for sale for less money, so I responded to the ad. The seller said they only fit the very old Mercedes with drum brakes on all 4 wheels and that they wouldn't fit the newer models like 300D, which is why they hadn't sold. But then he also thought that the 300Ds took 15 inch wheels.

I was pretty sure they would fit, so I sent him the money through PayPal and told a friend of mine who lived by the seller that I would pay him if he would pick them up for me and deliver them the next time he was down here. My friend procrastinated for 2 weeks (no call, no show to the seller), so I finally had to drive up there and get them myself.

The good news is that they fit my 300SD. The bad news is that the key for the wheel locks was lost and I will have to take a wheel to a locksmith so I can remove the center caps.

They came with lug bolts, too. They are 14" and have Swedish Gislaved studded snow tires on them with hardly any wear. The rims are aluminum and the insides are painted. They are made in Germany (1983 date stamp) and I have never seen anything like them.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-wZMZ1WMxsuo/TlblGvLAjiI/AAAAAAAACgs/kaIDOs0eZQE/s800/1980300sd170.jpg)(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-kw-Rkms0de0/TlbmG6kmBiI/AAAAAAAACg0/1_6ivdzsBcU/s800/1980300sd171.jpg)(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LwX2GCj_LPk/TlbmMMnE0FI/AAAAAAAACg4/X9QipRZGdS4/s800/1980300sd172.jpg)(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Z7u598iCZ-o/TlbmPvZnEYI/AAAAAAAACg8/kBuTkkP2CWc/s800/1980300sd173.jpg)

Now I have to focus on buying new all season tires because mine are coming apart and by the time I got back from 4 hours of driving my car was hopping and vibrating violently. I might even have to stop driving the car altogether until I can save up enough money for new tires.

I'm done messing around with used tires. I buy ones that look fantastic and within a few months they are dry rotted and coming apart.

I picked up a set of five decent 14X5.5 black steel wheels from PickNPull for $35 plus tax. I found out that I already have a set of 4 very nice black wheel covers with original paint, and since the paint on my bundts is flaking, I plan on using the steel wheels with the black wheel covers. I will put the bundts away for after I have them refinished.

And as for tires? I really want wide whitewall tires, even though they are not correct for the era of the car. The cheapest wide whitewall I could find was the Cokers at nearly $200 each. Then I came across some Hankooks that have had the white sidewall widened by shaving off some of the black sidewall. They are going to be a little lower profile than the correct size (185/70R14 as opposed to the proper 185/80R14), but it's worth it for the price of $350 for four and free shipping (I would order five). If I wasn't so hurting for money and facing unemployment I would spend $1,000 on quality whitewall tires. Here is a link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-185-70-14-HANKOOK-SHAVED-WHITE-WALL-TIRES-1857014-/280498607841?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item414f0516e1 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-185-70-14-HANKOOK-SHAVED-WHITE-WALL-TIRES-1857014-/280498607841?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item414f0516e1) .
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-pV5o7BV5X38/TlcEQN0-LYI/AAAAAAAAChU/yMofI0QIlpk/s800/hankookwhitewall.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: 1980sdga on 27 August 2011, 06:20 PM
Those are some unique wheels!  Weird about the locks, I don't think I've ever seen locks like those.  No DIY option?
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: jjb-w116-hu on 29 August 2011, 03:50 AM
squiggle, those rear lenses are enviable!  :-*
can you do me a favour and post a pic of what the new seal looks like around the reverse light - i just would like to know how worn mine are, I have seen a '72 SLC which has nice far rubber around the reverse edges and wonder if this is what it should be like on our 116's

thanks pal :) JJB
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: zedster on 29 August 2011, 11:41 AM
Awesome looking. Also, on the close ups of the new tail lights in if you look below the 3 on 300 SD and the L on Turbo Diesel there appears to be rubber grommets in the chrome. I just have holes and thought they were there for water drainage. What am I missing here?
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: jbrasile on 30 August 2011, 03:25 PM
Bill,

The tiny little grommets/plugs are NLA, I've had to get mine from the junk yard, you need to be very gentle prying them out though... I believe MB starting putting the holes on that rear chrome molding in 76-77 because my 74 280S did not have them.

Tks,

Joe
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: zedster on 30 August 2011, 03:37 PM
Mine is a '79. Thanks Joe!
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 02 September 2011, 08:57 PM
Quote from: jjb-w116-hu on 29 August 2011, 03:50 AM
squiggle, those rear lenses are enviable!  :-*
can you do me a favour and post a pic of what the new seal looks like around the reverse light - i just would like to know how worn mine are, I have seen a '72 SLC which has nice far rubber around the reverse edges and wonder if this is what it should be like on our 116's

thanks pal :) JJB

Here is what the rubber looks like around the edges. Most of the time the rubber ages and shrinks away to where it can't be seen. It's funny how many W116s I see that have new trunk seals, but old, rotted taillight seals, which will let lots of water into the trunk and rust away the mounting area.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uWu2V_KxQgU/TmGIHF1RsCI/AAAAAAAACho/-pYsKLCfDrk/s800/300sdtg.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Z5U3Sgcpgxs/TmGIRBsqyDI/AAAAAAAAChs/nFRRT9ku1z8/s800/300sdtg2.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 02 September 2011, 10:07 PM
You may recall that I was having problems with my tires, making the car hop and shimmy. Right before I left for work I inspected the tires again and I felt a ridge along one side of the front left tire. I didn't think it was safe to drive on, so I installed my spare from the trunk. When the tire was off the car I could see that it was crowned and getting ready to blow out.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-r0g-XOTvFtw/TmGTaxOZhhI/AAAAAAAACh0/qqh21mGZ1Ho/s800/1980300sd174.jpg)

Viewed from above it resembled a boomerang!
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-leYoTK60eH0/TmGTjx2knUI/AAAAAAAACh4/9IjOpNNSpDw/s800/1980300sd175.jpg)

Surprisingly, the car still vibrated just as badly as before. When I arrived home I checked the tires again and found that there was a large bubble in the tread of the front right tire that was about to burst!
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-BNiyR1x3T6s/TmGTp7PAWJI/AAAAAAAACh8/PMmybOBDU4U/s800/1980300sd176.jpg)

So, two out of the five tires were out of commission, leaving me with three left. I took the best wheel and tire from my fintail station wagon and installed it along with the next best one for a spare in the trunk. They are steel wheels and make the car look less classy mixed with the bundts, but oh well. I just need them to last me until I get my vacation check in a few weeks. Here's hoping. The car still shimmies, but not as bad as it did. I'm going with the Hankook wide whitewalls when the funds arrive. Being poor is no fun and sometimes scary. :-\
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 02 September 2011, 10:26 PM
Last weekend I was very busy replacing the brakes. When I purchased the car, the "new" master cylinder the previous owner said was installed wouldn't hold fluid, because the rubber grommets were rotted out. It was also very rusty. As luck would have it, I found a master cylinder and booster in a W126 chassis sedan at what was then Pull-A-Part that were almost brand-new genuine Mercedes parts. I purchased them for $12! That was the first step.

The second step was replacing the deteriorated, bubbled, and torn brake hoses. I bought and installed new ATE hoses, which brought much peace of mind.

However, the rest of the system was still in sad shape. When it comes to my car, I like to use genuine Mercedes parts, or at least OEM brands. This can be a challenge on my budget, but I am vigilant and it has paid off. I was browsing eBay and I purchased a pair of brand new ATE front calipers for $70, which is about 10 times less than they usually sell for! Later, I found a set of brand new ATE rear calipers for $276 and free shipping.

One of the W123 sedans at Pick-N-Pull had a very nice set of rotors which had no lip on them, and other than being rusty, they seemed to be nearly new. So, with those parts in hand I started the brake job...
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 02 September 2011, 10:34 PM
The rotors were very worn.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Y3gYhalhrT8/TmGTstBOdnI/AAAAAAAACiA/ZcNqrTTmJYk/s800/1980300sd177.jpg)

The calipers didn't exactly match, with an ATE on one side...
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-NUylA3zgS-c/TmGTwgE46kI/AAAAAAAACiE/VywwOUt3njg/s800/1980300sd178.jpg)

...and a Bendix on the other.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4ILf4Tnohr0/TmGT1pNO1VI/AAAAAAAACiI/JWhGIplgk0A/s800/1980300sd179.jpg)

The grease appeared to be a fairly recent mix of different types--and way too much of it. Too much grease can overheat the bearings.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-caKK-a2QRk4/TmGT5iEgq4I/AAAAAAAACiM/yQIvHuPegsY/s800/1980300sd180.jpg)

These rotors I bought at Pick-N-Pull didn't look like much, but they had hardly any wear on them. I ended up using the hubs from these as the bearings were in great condition. I removed the bearings so that I could clean and grease them. Then I installed new grease seals.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-1jlqi3YgHpI/TmGT_-tk6_I/AAAAAAAACiQ/tD4kwQ0YCRQ/s800/1980300sd181.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 02 September 2011, 10:43 PM
Oh, goody--these rotors are genuine Mercedes parts! ;D
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RBfbcd0Euyk/TmGUI9rG7-I/AAAAAAAACiU/Dtsrqm1_iu4/s800/1980300sd182.jpg)

Naked spindles! The backing plates sure were rusty.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-sW1LhSRrSe8/TmGUO3FRgfI/AAAAAAAACiY/nhoAaU2bRl8/s800/1980300sd183.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-fDEvQMEG0rU/TmGUWr8wWHI/AAAAAAAACic/-sVR1NL5_9o/s800/1980300sd184.jpg)

Much better! I wet sanded the backing plates with 220 grit sandpaper, then brushed on Rust Doctor. It converts the rust to black magnetite, which will no longer rust. It even coats the bare metal and makes it turn black, while not disturbing any remaining paint and factory marks. I bought Rust Doctor at a swap meet years ago and it has been very useful at times.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-f1vdj_ZimME/TmGUb6y4XII/AAAAAAAACig/6ovS_P-pkRU/s800/1980300sd185.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-HvGQBDC2ZoU/TmGUj-_cYYI/AAAAAAAACik/tofqZv3U7ZQ/s800/1980300sd186.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 02 September 2011, 10:58 PM
I made sure to not use too much grease. I used Mobil1 synthetic bearing grease. It doesn't stink and it cleans up easily. To set the bearings I first tightened up the hubs, then backed off, then tightened the hubs in increments while grabbing the rotors from each side to see if there was still side-to-side play. I was satisfied once the side-to-side play was just gone and there was no noticeable drag. I'm not sure if this proper, but it seemed to work for my last car.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wQPu6kND-KI/TmGUpdmMBWI/AAAAAAAACio/dr-U12aOqag/s800/1980300sd187.jpg)

Here are my glorious, brand new calipers! I like the Arabic writing on the boxes. It reminds me of the middle east where I grew up.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ztU1I3weYY8/TmGUwIa3ilI/AAAAAAAACis/r5z3j6hNMsw/s800/1980300sd188.jpg)

When I was at Pick-N-Pull I was rooting through a 450SLC and found a box of brand new front and rear genuine Mercedes brake pads inside! It was a great $5 find.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-cOdchxQFSn8/TmGU4CngXAI/AAAAAAAACiw/Bl0IKgzaYcw/s800/1980300sd189.jpg)

When I was replacing the brakes on my 200D last year I bought a tube of ATE Plastilube. I still had plenty left for applying to the moving parts of the brake system (sides and backside of brake pads, etc.).
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Oblrc-qQBFg/TmGU9z3ImiI/AAAAAAAACi0/uj7ZpB2fYXg/s800/1980300sd190.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 02 September 2011, 11:14 PM
Here are the front brakes completed. I wet sanded the rotors with 220 grit sandpaper before installing them.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-r03UJQ-AA6M/TmGVHcaxsTI/AAAAAAAACi4/ERqgd_sidAc/s800/1980300sd191.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-PNBxXs2Revc/TmGVOFd2uRI/AAAAAAAACi8/nfKkok7g68E/s800/1980300sd192.jpg)

The rear brakes were every bit as bad as the front. In fact, the rotors were rusted to the hub and it took penetrating oil and smacks with a sledge hammer to free them.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Mb9BYw668hk/TmGVVzX-NXI/AAAAAAAACjA/e0kUlgLAA2Q/s800/1980300sd193.jpg)

As I was working on the rear brakes I noticed that I have a scary rust problem to tend to.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3if_ejVPUug/TmGVbB2lAMI/AAAAAAAACjE/x6-Bz5KfWQ4/s800/1980300sd194.jpg)

The parking brake shoes were down to the metal. That must be why the parking brake didn't hold.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PxAxa9WDiPA/TmGVfHr1n4I/AAAAAAAACjI/GtpEX7ZGI38/s800/1980300sd195.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 02 September 2011, 11:25 PM
I know I don't usually install aftermarket parts, but this entire Meyle parking brake kit was only $27 and it included the springs! It's also Italian-made, so it must be decent.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9Hr26KSZcSI/TmGVj4JOshI/AAAAAAAACjM/5rTe0IJ3JQs/s800/1980300sd196.jpg)

I sanded the backing plates and coated them with Rust Doctor, then let the rusty adjuster assembly soak in vinegar for a while. ATE Plastilube was used on all sliding surfaces.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-R2i4vbzVI0c/TmGVr5_WScI/AAAAAAAACjQ/ywXqtyvEkqo/s800/1980300sd197.jpg)

I did end up regretting buying an aftermarket part, afterall. Though the Meyle parking brake kit appeared to be of decent quality and a great value, I had to take the brakes apart again to file the lower contact points, because the rotors would not fit over the shoes.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-87PYNc7yWyY/TmGVtQQaxKI/AAAAAAAACjU/-V_Zlkdlt2k/s800/1980300sd198.jpg)

I had to file the shoes down quite a bit. After installing them again I discovered that I needed to file them even more. I ended up filing away the indented area completely. This was barely adequate for the shoes to not scrape with the adjusters all the way in and no tension on the parking brake cable.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-PkhcWMOoamk/TmGVwpU2OwI/AAAAAAAACjY/-SrbDopqdCs/s800/1980300sd199.jpg)

Here are the rear brakes, completed and looking pretty.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mUmw1iIdqew/TmGV-tkHaUI/AAAAAAAACjc/FbkLHrRkplg/s800/1980300sd200.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 02 September 2011, 11:35 PM
Bleeding the brakes was a bit of a problem because I was using tubing that was a loose fit and was letting in air bubbles.

I bought one of those $7 Powerbuilt bleeder kits, which was a disaster. The magnetic bottle would not stick anywhere and the magnet fell out and shattered. The plastic tubing was way too small for the bleeder screws, yet would keep popping off the bottle and causing me to lose brake fluid.

I gave up on that and resorted to a one-man bleeder valve I had. It didn't work because the threads of the bleeder screws were letting air bubbles in.

I found a proper size piece of tubing and when my roommate got home I had him pump the pedal while I bled the brakes. I think I have 98% of the air bubbles out, but might do one last round.

I used Castrol GT LMA DOT 4 synthetic brake fluid that I found at the auto parts store. Guess what? It's made in Germany, just like my car!

So now my brakes have been completely redone with a mix of genuine Mercedes and OEM parts (minus the Meyle parking brake shoes), all for a cost of just over $400. That's hard to beat!
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: 1980sdga on 04 September 2011, 10:54 AM
Good write-up, good pics., good job!

Thanks for posting that!
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 04 September 2011, 05:05 PM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 02 September 2011, 11:25 PM
I know I don't usually install aftermarket parts, but this entire Meyle parking brake kit was only $27 and it included the springs! It's also Italian-made, so it must be decent.

Meyle makes some good stuff - I bought their air filter bracket, which is a higher-durability design than OEM.  The original bracket was broken in my 300CD, and I liked the new part so much, I put it in the 300SD, moving the OEM part from the SD to the CD. :P
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 04 September 2011, 08:27 PM
Quote from: Raptelan on 04 September 2011, 05:05 PM
Meyle makes some good stuff - I bought their air filter bracket, which is a higher-durability design than OEM.  The original bracket was broken in my 300CD, and I liked the new part so much, I put it in the 300SD, moving the OEM part from the SD to the CD. :P

I think it depends on the part. I've seen those reinforced air filter brackets and they are probably better than OEM. Every rubber part I have purchased so far that's made by Meyle has dry rotted in less than 6 months, and that's in the damp Pacific Northwest! The parking brake kit actually seemed to be decent quality and a great value, short of the fact that I had to file the shoes.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 06 September 2011, 02:05 PM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 27 May 2011, 09:56 PM
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-yM7LJd6o9fI/TeBGYHcUUTI/AAAAAAAACRw/1UFAHWRS3pk/s800/1980300sd136.jpg)

Say, now that you've got a manual sunroof, what are you going to do with that electric sunroof switch?  I thought the dash would look a bit funny with it blanked out - wondered if there was another good use for a switch in this location...
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 06 September 2011, 02:49 PM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 27 May 2011, 09:56 PM
It is perfectly centered on the wood and if I were to cut the extra slot for the center vent slider it would fit perfectly between the top of the wood and the placard.

What is this center vent slider of which you speak?  Pictures??
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 06 September 2011, 02:57 PM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 27 May 2011, 09:56 PM
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xLmOUgbw4eQ/TeBGhysbbpI/AAAAAAAACR0/IQM09GCZPp0/s800/1980300sd137.jpg)

Hey buddy, you know you've got two rear dome light switches there, and they're installed upside-down? ;)  I'm sure there must be some logical reason for this, knowing you?
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 07 September 2011, 04:26 PM
Quote from: Raptelan on 06 September 2011, 02:05 PM
Say, now that you've got a manual sunroof, what are you going to do with that electric sunroof switch?  I thought the dash would look a bit funny with it blanked out - wondered if there was another good use for a switch in this location...

I will remove the sunroof switch. The cars made without sunroofs just have it blanked out. I might put the A/C ON/OFF switch up there, though. As for the two dome light switches in there, they were already installed inside the heater faceplate. I will be removing one of them.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 07 September 2011, 04:41 PM
Quote from: Raptelan on 06 September 2011, 02:49 PM
What is this center vent slider of which you speak?  Pictures??

The cars with manual heat have a extra slider in the dashboard wood like what is on each side. I don't have a picture at the moment, but if you look at a car with manual heat, you'll see what I mean.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 07 September 2011, 06:35 PM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 07 September 2011, 04:41 PM
Quote from: Raptelan on 06 September 2011, 02:49 PM
What is this center vent slider of which you speak?  Pictures??

The cars with manual heat have a extra slider in the dashboard wood like what is on each side. I don't have a picture at the moment, but if you look at a car with manual heat, you'll see what I mean.

Ahh yeah, so it does...  What's the reason for this though?  Does it work at all differently from the vertical slider in the center of the vents on the auto models?

Here's a picture from the 450SE I'll be picking up soon...

(http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i341/tony_heyer/1974%20Mercedes%20450se/9A60F72E-B138-460F-BD55-7369F12D618F_16.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 07 September 2011, 11:07 PM
I think the center slider just directs the air between coming through the upper windshield vents, or coming out the dashboard vents.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: koan on 08 September 2011, 02:39 PM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 07 September 2011, 11:07 PM
I think the center slider just directs the air between coming through the upper windshield vents, or coming out the dashboard vents.

No, it just controls amount of air from the vent, which is never heated, it's either fresh or cooled. Left vertical lever controls air to demister vents.

koan
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 09 September 2011, 06:35 PM
Today was payday, so I purchased five new Hankook whitewall tires from eBay. The total was $440 with free shipping. Of course, I won't be able to have them installed until after I receive my vacation check on the 15th--but at least they should be here by then.

I've heard mixed reviews about Hankook tires. They are a budget tire, so I can't expect a whole lot of performance out of them and I'll just have to see how they handle. They are slightly lower profile than what's supposed to be on there, but unless I'm willing to pay at least twice what I just spent, sizes are very limited.

Below are some pictures of a 300SD that was for sale locally a few years ago. This is what my car will look like with whitewall tires and the black wheel covers I have, only mine has the 6.9 bumpers, fog light guards, and chrome fender trim. Of course, the paint on this car is much better than mine.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-8HMo2FsBvgM/Tmqdypqw9PI/AAAAAAAACjs/idiw2lR2tdM/s800/300sdwhitewalls.jpg)(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-i5u5LOfNaKg/TmqeDmAL34I/AAAAAAAACjw/EOflSmbUw4I/s800/300sdwhitewalls2.jpg)(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-cbqtlovdV9M/TmqeSq2jPqI/AAAAAAAACj0/Ef-ilEoUi4U/s800/300sdwhitewalls3.jpg)

The whitewalls I am getting aren't quite that wide, so they will probably look more like the ones on this car, which actually is a similar color brown to what mine was originally:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vFTyN9UQV28/TmqeoRQHSyI/AAAAAAAACj4/BX8Zb5yrf6Q/s800/280sjpg.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: vlv8vic on 09 September 2011, 06:46 PM
i prefer the thinner whitewalls too.  I've read about people doing it themselves with a carefully set-up jig which shaves the lettering off but i know here in Vic that can be a defect item now.  I wonder how much it *actually* changes the sidewall strength. 
I look forward to seeing yours.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 09 September 2011, 06:56 PM
I love big, fat whitewalls, but the ones I am buying should be wide enough, even if they aren't as wide as I would prefer. Whitewall shaving can easily be done and it doesn't weaken the sidewall since there is only 1/16 of an inch of black rubber covering the white sidewall underneath.

However, I don't want to mess around with used tires anymore that are already starting to deteriorate, and if I were to buy brand new thin whitewall tires they would cost as much or more than the ones I bought, then I would still have to shave off the black rubber. Some day I'll have the money to buy the real thing.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: vlv8vic on 10 September 2011, 12:04 AM
Here they take regular tyres, shave off or scribe the writing to the desired width and then manually (by manually i mean by machine or sometimes by hand) add the white paint.  Illegal to even shave off the writing here.
I get what you mean about the ones with white already in them - i can't imagine it would be as easy to spot a slight widening than it would for our local law enforcement to spot a complete home-job. gotta love it.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: CJP28 on 12 September 2011, 06:27 PM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 25 August 2011, 10:02 PM

They came with lug bolts, too. They are 14" and have Swedish Gislaved studded snow tires on them with hardly any wear. The rims are aluminum and the insides are painted. They are made in Germany (1983 date stamp) and I have never seen anything like them.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-wZMZ1WMxsuo/TlblGvLAjiI/AAAAAAAACgs/kaIDOs0eZQE/s800/1980300sd170.jpg)(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-kw-Rkms0de0/TlbmG6kmBiI/AAAAAAAACg0/1_6ivdzsBcU/s800/1980300sd171.jpg)(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LwX2GCj_LPk/TlbmMMnE0FI/AAAAAAAACg4/X9QipRZGdS4/s800/1980300sd172.jpg)(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Z7u598iCZ-o/TlbmPvZnEYI/AAAAAAAACg8/kBuTkkP2CWc/s800/1980300sd173.jpg)

DAMN, THOSE WHEELS ARE NICE! Talk about Back To The Future! Lol
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 12 September 2011, 11:18 PM
Yep, that snow tire/wheel set is going to be fun this winter. I've never seen another set of those wheels.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 13 September 2011, 09:09 PM
UPS stopped by today with my 5 new Hankook Mileage Plus II shaved whitewall tires. I know I could have bought white sidewall tires and then tried to shave them myself, but it would have cost just as much as these tires, anyway.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-uu_ianRPDuE/TnAJpMv7l0I/AAAAAAAACkg/1Ufa3Cu5p0c/s800/1980300sd201.jpg)

They're not quite the tires you see in the Coker catalog, but they are also less than half the price! The only thing that bothers me is that the whitewall rubber is rough from being ground, but I could probably use sandpaper to get the rubber smoother.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KnXCWEfkSrY/TnAJvRSNmGI/AAAAAAAACkk/CeOJ0lmBDcs/s800/1980300sd202.jpg)

Now I have to wait for my vacation check on the 15th so I can get them installed on my black steel rims, next I'll have the dealer do an alignment. I'm really excited to see how the car looks with them on.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 18 September 2011, 09:18 PM
I spent several hours cleaning and polishing the wheels I got for $7 each from PickNPull. They were dull, oxidized, rusty, and had lots of ancient brake dust on them. Black Magic Wheel Cleaner got the brake dust off, but not without hours of very much scrubbing. I polished them with Meguiar's Deep Crystal Polish, followed by Meguiar's Gold Class Wax, then coated with DuPont Teflon Wax. In the end they were very shiny, with only a little rust remaining.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_y2FxW9hpkI/TnahuyrsNGI/AAAAAAAACkw/PuBG7gcaekU/s800/1980300sd203.jpg)

I made sure that the insides were just as clean as the outsides.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FMyuVbQ3aws/Tnah3b2LzhI/AAAAAAAACk0/Twz3exSXOg8/s800/1980300sd204.jpg)

I had Les Schwab Tires mount and balance the tires. It was $118.32 with 5 new valve stems. As I was installing the wheels I noticed that they wrote "BENT" on the inside of one of them. I'm not sure what that's about, so I'll have to call them. For now I'm using at as a spare. If the rim is bent, I think that I have another one I can polish and use.

I found some rusty wheel bolts and soaked them in Evapo Rust for a couple of hours. I then coated them with wax before adding a small amount of anti-seize paste to the threads.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-e9HTNOwnnqw/TnaiBHSSm9I/AAAAAAAACk4/1MHmyLtoTig/s800/1980300sd205.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 18 September 2011, 09:28 PM
Here's what the 300SD looks like with the whitewall tires and black wheel covers. I love it! I am sticking with whitewall tires for life. At some point I might go back to the bundts after I have them and the car painted, but this works for now. The car rides smoothly; no more shaking and hopping--and I don't have to worry about the tires blowing out anymore.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NI8LWkxVQHg/TnaiOnqeqOI/AAAAAAAACk8/5AqwnIRrleM/s800/1980300sd206.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-a-vA3MNkTEc/TnaicPHPAvI/AAAAAAAAClA/c2oqvMOISSc/s800/1980300sd207.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Oc65xSWe5hA/TnaiimRNqXI/AAAAAAAAClE/bQ3ob9j58g0/s800/1980300sd208.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-LtkB_ieMpaE/Tnaisz8yGAI/AAAAAAAAClI/k71r6-i01AA/s800/1980300sd209.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-rODL_HP_HxA/Tnai2A6f07I/AAAAAAAAClM/2NCC2eWsAng/s800/1980300sd210.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 18 September 2011, 09:44 PM
After I installed the tires I was looking at the dulled paint with peeling clearcoat, and it was bothering me. The car needs a repaint, no question--but I wanted it to at least look like someone cares about it. So, I scraped off as much flaking clearcoat as I could, washed the car, bought some rubbing compound, and started buffing the paint. I then went over it with polishing compound. By the time I got to hosing off the polishing compound it temporarily stopped raining, so I put a coat of Meguiar's Gold Class Wax on it. Then it started raining again, but it looks a lot better now. At least the water beads and the paint has some depth to it. It should stay cleaner as well.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-GRS7b7i-HKE/TnajCC7x9FI/AAAAAAAAClQ/Va5LDBjDDWI/s800/1980300sd211.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-t_qtAJMADG0/TnajIJVVktI/AAAAAAAAClU/FPsAi3ZfvUA/s800/1980300sd212.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-zrY8S67IKyE/TnajQ2Na8wI/AAAAAAAAClY/gfY7GE1G5wk/s800/1980300sd213.jpg)

Tomorrow I go to the dealer for an alignment, which I haven't had done after replacing the steering box because my tires were too bad. I'm bringing my centering tool with me.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 19 September 2011, 08:53 AM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 18 September 2011, 09:44 PM
I'm bringing my centering tool with me.

What's this?
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 19 September 2011, 08:40 PM
I just got back from the dealer where I had all 4 wheels aligned. I brought the steering box centering screw with me so that they could center the box while adjusting the front wheels to point straight ahead.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-C-nfogEjys8/TbdLMpf1FDI/AAAAAAAACKA/8fvz0c9_8dk/s800/w116kontrolscrew.jpg)

All 4 wheels are now within specs and the steering feels great. It's one less thing to worry about. The cost was $165.58 after my 10% MBCA discount. I was charged $8 for shop supplies and another $8 for hazardous waste removal, which I think is a bit of a scam, but oh well. After topping off the fuel tank I am now broke, which is not a good thing.

I still can't get over how much better my car looks after adding the wheels/tires and polishing it.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-aYcfe1CglTw/TnfpWnmehyI/AAAAAAAAClk/UQ83qshnTOs/s800/1980300sd214.jpg)

It looks much better than it did at the time I purchased it.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-HD-TEpeqdK0/TnfuKLWEIuI/AAAAAAAACl4/2ovEQH8me1I/s800/1980300sd4.jpg)

Oh, and I made wall art out of my last car:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-RcUA4g3-uCw/TkSGiyINnEI/AAAAAAAACew/gswvbmYeW6s/s800/w110grille.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 19 September 2011, 09:45 PM
Paint care is always nice to see.  So many people (myself included in the past) don't bother with it due to some imperfections, but as I learned with the red car, even with imperfections, it can make a HUGE difference.  I'm looking forward to having the time to do paint restoration on the 450SE, though the cracking clearcoat will leave much to be desired.

Funny though, even with the paint as it is, I'm getting a lot of compliments from random people when I drive the 450SE, that I don't generally get with the 300SD, which I've polished up as best as I can.  I think it's because the darker color brings out the chrome more.  And maybe because the engine sound attracts more looks to start with.  I imagine your car gets more positive attention than mine for this reason, even with the paint as it is.

Definitely love the look of the new tires along with those hubcaps!  I think they look far better than the Bundts.  Come to think of it, the hubcaps might be part of why my 450SE gets more attention too... ;)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 25 November 2011, 09:34 PM
I started working on those TRON wheels so I could use the studded snow tires this winter. I took them to the best locksmith in town and it took them a week to make a key. The key would only unlock one of the center caps because the other three were too corroded inside the lock cylinders. I soaked the cylinders in penetrating oil, then tried baking soda and vinegar. Both of the keys I had broke off inside the locks, so I gave up.

I sold those things to someone who is going to drill out the locks. I couldn't deal with them anymore. They cost a good amount of money to purchase and have the keys made, then they were just taking up valuable space in my storage shed. I also think that the tires were made in 1983 and probably no longer safe for freeway use.

I started hearing a thumping noise under the hood. What I discovered was a broken air cleaner mount that was causing the air cleaner to rattle against the inner fender. This is not uncommon because owners neglect the rubber air cleaner mounts, and engines that have an idle that is too low or rough puts a lot of vibration into the bracket.

A previous owner had drilled a hole in the bracket where the crack occurred. The crankcase breather pipe next to the bracket had a paper towel inserted in it when I purchased it, since there was a melted cone filter attached to the turbo in place of the factory air cleaner.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-cbDEjfuseKQ/TtBHptvWqjI/AAAAAAAACw8/VH0xcnziKyU/s800/1980300sd215.JPG)

The bracket had already been welded once before in another location.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-93bNvQRCyD0/TtBHsv2KmJI/AAAAAAAACxA/4PJTBBXgQqc/s800/1980300sd216.JPG)

I didn't buy a new bracket since I'm unemployed, but I had three spares. Unfortunately, all three had broken in the same place, but two of them had been repaired.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-NtcunXLFp0Y/TtBHxblgPnI/AAAAAAAACxE/XqjomjU7vr8/s800/1980300sd217.JPG)

When people have these welded, they forget that the area underneath needs to be flush or else it will cause the bracket to tilt. I filed the area smooth.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-iJlLeK_Zp1A/TtBIRx9qJII/AAAAAAAACxQ/b-31GrsD3eE/s800/1980300sd218.JPG)

That fixed the problem. Hopefully it lasts. Some day I want to buy Meyle's heavy duty bracket. I also noticed that the turbo wastegate hose was getting worn through, and the air intake rings were aged and not sealing well. If the wastegate hose leaks, it can overboost the engine, and bad air intake rings can cause the engine to suck in grit. So, I ordered those parts right away.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-eMVyxcZpCZs/TtBIUJzWeAI/AAAAAAAACxU/b-6fwrIRebs/s800/1980300sd219.JPG)

I also noticed that my power steering pump is leaking at the front seal, so I ordered a new seal kit. I'm trying to spend as little money on my car as possible, but I have to keep it reliable and can't risk damaging it, either.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 25 November 2011, 09:49 PM
Papalangi gave me this nice car cover when I visited. With all of the rain we've been having, my interior has been soaked. So, I'm going to try the cover to see if it helps keep the interior dry until I can replace the weatherstripping. It didn't rain today, so I opened the doors and trunk, sopped up the water, and let it air out before covering it. For being for a Ford Mustang notch, it fits my car very nicely, and I'm happy with it. I'm on the lookout for a nice blue left front door panel and maybe some other interior parts for his 450SEL to repay him for his generosity.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-_XvO8I6UXrA/TtBIWRH-EpI/AAAAAAAACxY/su6N72tdgpk/s800/1980300sd220.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Kg3XBP1Cz60/TtBIjyDVfvI/AAAAAAAACxk/dYF21g-9tN8/s800/1980300sd221.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-N9INz3LnMhI/TtBIlmduFTI/AAAAAAAACxo/Hhm5lRHmjRs/s800/1980300sd222.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-1hOEG64RrSE/TtBInrwi1VI/AAAAAAAACxw/H5Tf-oKKCmc/s800/1980300sd223.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Papalangi on 26 November 2011, 05:22 AM
That's a mighty fine looking car cover you've got there, Squiggle Dog.  Looks even better on a car than in the rafters of my garage!

It did rain mighty hard the last few days and it was nice enough today that I cracked the two windows that work and the sunroof to try to dry the interior of my car while putting up the Christmas lights.  Then I was stupid enough to go out driving on Black Friday.  What was I thinking?

Michael
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: 1980sdga on 28 November 2011, 05:35 PM
Have you considered ditching the factory air cleaner assembly?  The function of the factory setup would be hard to beat but it's a poor design.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 28 November 2011, 08:50 PM
Quote from: 1980sdga on 28 November 2011, 05:35 PM
Have you considered ditching the factory air cleaner assembly?  The function of the factory setup would be hard to beat but it's a poor design.

I have several times, but there really seems to be no practical way of doing it. Going the cone filter route restricts air flow and tends to suck in warm air. That, and if water is sprayed under the hood, the unprotected air cleaner element is vulnerable to getting wet.

I've seen people make decent air boxes for the W123 and W126, but there is simply not enough room on a W116 due to the battery, and I'm not wanting to relocate the battery to the trunk. I think the factory setup is fine if the rubber mounts are in good order and the engine is running smoothly.

Now on the W111 fintail station wagon I am going to be building, I will be using a W108 sedan/W111 coupe air cleaner for fuel injected models, because it will bolt up in the factory mounting holes and is a true cold air intake system. Then I can run a hose straight from the air cleaner to the turbo.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 07 December 2011, 06:44 PM
My power steering pump was leaking at the front seal, so I decided to fix it before it got much worse. I ordered a new German DPH seal kit and took it apart. The pump was greasy and dirty, but wiping biodiesel on it made the grime dissolve almost instantly.

I used a large C-clamp to push in the rear cover of the pump so that I could remove the snap ring and pull out the shaft. The shaft had light grooving where the seal lips rode. I made sure the inside was nice and clean, replaced the shaft and rear cover seals, then punched out the roll pin so I could clean the valve and install a new O-ring.

After the pump was back together I gave it a good sanding followed by a thorough cleaning. I sprayed the housing with Krylon Rust Tough Zinc Rich Primer and Gloss Black Paint. It turned out well for the weather being 40 degrees Fahrenheit or less.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-lMoPD9kiHgM/Tt_uLlhfcMI/AAAAAAAACzE/UTPGvAfwSn8/s800/1980300sd224.JPG)

The belt was fairly new and the pulley just needed polishing. I wasn't able to tighten the belt properly before because the threaded plastic tensioner was broken, so I ordered a new one from The Mercedes-Benz Classic Center for a whopping $1.27. The original Sperry-Vickers lid was smooth, but I installed one from a ZF pump because it looks like the Mercedes logo.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-qoEH1ugHaqw/Tt_uRZ0BK9I/AAAAAAAACzI/SwZup49XF6w/s800/1980300sd225.JPG)

I was able to keep overspray off of the label, shaft seal, and rear roll pin by carefully painting over them with bearing grease. After the paint dried, it peeled right off of these areas like masking tape, then I wiped the surfaces clean.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-LiZLBUgxuQY/Tt_uVqAzOyI/AAAAAAAACzM/eCVeNjkWCOQ/s800/1980300sd226.JPG)

The filter was recently replaced, so I filled up the pump with Royal Purple Power Steering Fluid, turned the wheels a few time to purge the air bubbles while checking the fluid level, then went on a test drive. I was worried about the grooving on the shaft, but no leaks so far!
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-oY4C-aaTlUg/Tt_uZshbnjI/AAAAAAAACzQ/41nsarBNSDw/s800/1980300sd227.JPG)

The total cost of refurbishing the pump before shipping (was free) or tax was $20.70 ($1.88 for the shaft seal, $2.35 for the O-ring kit, $7.99 for the primer, $5.49 for the paint, and $2.99 for the power steering fluid).

The low pressure hose was cracked, so I ordered a new one and cut it to the proper 430mm length. I also found some nice hose clamps with the star logo on them.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nPwONNBnfY0/Tt_ueWqOheI/AAAAAAAACzU/klGXC2F1_Ow/s800/1980300sd228.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 07 December 2011, 07:02 PM
I also purchased a new wastegate hose to replace the one that was heat bubbled and almost worn through. It was conveniently already cut to the proper 292mm length. I found some nice star logo hose clamps to replace the slicey USA-style ones. Some day I am going to get a boost gauge, then open up that wastegate and crank it up a bit to get more turbo boost.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jnyFihb6auY/Tt_uhd6WYCI/AAAAAAAACzY/Nv9Jx8MK6Bg/s800/1980300sd229.JPG)

My U-tube air intake seals were aged and deformed, so I replaced them with new ones. I also put a cap over the cold air intake port because the Euro headlights seal it off, making it useless. You can tell the 300SD was made entirely for the USA market because the original headlights floated, leaving a space for air to come in behind them.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-tYtiXSmIZT0/Tt_uj7b-aFI/AAAAAAAACzc/FbQVwXsyrto/s800/1980300sd230.JPG)

So now my intake tube just floats in front of the hood opening and still takes in cool air.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-FKiIhRWFoWg/Tt_um-oJ8OI/AAAAAAAACzg/Eij1miNabkU/s800/1980300sd231.JPG)

You can see that cool air comes in from under the hood and now the intake tube works in the same way as the W123 chassis.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YYuY-lmQ8QY/Tt_upJqfXQI/AAAAAAAACzk/XGWg2xWGxbc/s800/1980300sd232.JPG)

I also purchased a roof rack that will soon be installed. Here is a test fit before I attach the hardware and stain the planks.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rgl1iPMIhSw/Ttr4mWn7E9I/AAAAAAAACyU/mvUtV-FOz_M/s800/mercrr5.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 01 January 2012, 10:16 PM
I've spent the last two weeks working on the roof rack. The wood slats provided were raw pine.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Yk-S6dvmB_Y/TwEdjufs2hI/AAAAAAAAC0s/ndM2R9UYyV0/s800/1980300sd233.JPG)

I couldn't have them in the weather as they were, so I sanded them smooth with 220 grit sandpaper.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-x5RNgia1mCQ/TwEdmlqHkSI/AAAAAAAAC0w/deP9pR0uXd0/s800/1980300sd234.JPG)

I sanded all of the edges and cleaned up the bolt holes.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-9QuhxMcsgsk/TwEdomj87dI/AAAAAAAAC00/opINHauo0xM/s800/1980300sd235.JPG)

One of the pieces was splintered.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-91EGc0Mev0M/TwEdqK_GsxI/AAAAAAAAC04/vRaYF6Aw_5A/s800/1980300sd236.JPG)

I used wood glue and clamps to repair the splinter.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-tLW_HivEJe4/TwEdrjPtKWI/AAAAAAAAC08/hvMqNEkUSx4/s800/1980300sd237.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 01 January 2012, 10:24 PM
After an hour and some sanding the repair was not noticeable.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1dPhgJjmwL4/TwEdtPXFegI/AAAAAAAAC1A/N5XB-8F2V4c/s800/1980300sd238.JPG)

I wiped on Minwax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner before applying about 4 coats of Minwax Dark Walnut Wood Finish Stain, wiping off the excess.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-cOLWPu8FxyM/TwEdxmuZM_I/AAAAAAAAC1E/44skWZ5PdOo/s800/1980300sd239.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ODzNgceUfVU/TwEd0Pk7iGI/AAAAAAAAC1I/ZKrylTlBkWQ/s800/1980300sd240.JPG)

This made the wood darker and almost like zebrano.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-z2SI8G5OaRo/TwEd4vAXhgI/AAAAAAAAC1M/jTwfqkDxt4Y/s800/1980300sd241.JPG)

I filled in the knot depressions with Color Putty Wood Filler. Push in, wipe off.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-a9XLD_sHB9g/TwEd6ZkzvwI/AAAAAAAAC1Q/n1KGiYz1UGU/s800/1980300sd242.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 01 January 2012, 10:37 PM
After staining I brushed on Minwax Helmsman High Gloss Spar Urethane. It has an amber hue which gave the wood a warmer appearance.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-6IlLj2wWC9Y/TwEd8ADLN4I/AAAAAAAAC1U/YJcZbnwLWqw/s800/1980300sd243.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-UyTNmCkJVH8/TwEd9oWNSDI/AAAAAAAAC1Y/IoK4h46OvtA/s800/1980300sd244.JPG)

I applied 3 full coats, wet sanding with 220 grit and paint thinner between each coat. The first coat was rough, but after the third it was much more level.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-zCo5xbt0JiU/TwEd_K6THBI/AAAAAAAAC1c/QW6gqzW_xbk/s800/1980300sd245.JPG)

Each side had to be brushed separately and allowed to dry for at least 4 hours. This was very time-consuming since I had 6 pieces to do. In fact, it took a solid week.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-3-BmUoZ890M/TwEeA_nZmQI/AAAAAAAAC1g/cfkd_1uuUU4/s800/1980300sd246.JPG)

I then mixed some of the urethane 50/50 with paint thinner and applied it with a cloth. It dried faster and much smoother, without brush marks. I wet sanded with 600 grit and paint thinner and did three more thinned coats. The finish was glossy but there were small bits of dust and lint in it.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-q4eHuJr6A2o/TwEeDTCBCfI/AAAAAAAAC1k/hKG60sIUu6M/s800/1980300sd247.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 01 January 2012, 11:05 PM
I wasn't happy with the imperfections in the finish, but I have read many sources that say that spar urethane cannot be buffed out to a gloss because it is meant to be flexible and is too soft. I thought I would try anyway, so after waiting a week for it to cure, I got rid of a few runs with 800 grit sandpaper, then wet sanded the pieces with 1500 grit sandpaper, followed by 2000 grit sandpaper. This took me all day. It removed the gloss but the surface was very flat.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-nJmdNe-nMh4/TwEeEuJmKGI/AAAAAAAAC1o/2FlozUQ9SwU/s800/1980300sd248.JPG)

The next day I used Meguiar's rubbing compound, then polishing compound. This also took all day, but gave a nearly flawless finish that is glasslike and glossy.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-4Rw9CXV83Rk/TwEeGSnB7lI/AAAAAAAAC1s/63CawfGSiaY/s800/1980300sd249.JPG)

The wood for the roof rack now almost matches the interior wood. It's only a little lighter, not nearly as much as the picture shows.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8LZRCBlhSPs/TwEeH7geozI/AAAAAAAAC1w/alnPidCwlak/s800/1980300sd250.JPG)

I had to add a few pieces of hardware; namely spacers and locking nuts so that I could actually tighten it. I added electrical tape to the mounting surface and scuffed it with 220 grit sandpaper so that it wouldn't slide.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-jR9l1tc0D_s/TwEeJvMecfI/AAAAAAAAC10/hZDdRj5uifk/s800/1980300sd251.JPG)

I really like this roof rack and it accommodates the sunroof well.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-TXyoSydtRwo/TwEeLjBMpQI/AAAAAAAAC14/edGsRweJdY4/s800/1980300sd252.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 01 January 2012, 11:17 PM
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UNqkMervNps/TwEeiwsSO2I/AAAAAAAAC2E/IzDfc5_pLHI/s800/1980300sd253.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-jVXbmTv84n0/TwEek1bjsuI/AAAAAAAAC2I/FBeMM7tyZhI/s800/1980300sd254.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-2-5auw2FXhM/TwEemJA4ABI/AAAAAAAAC2M/AAfawe5Ev8U/s800/1980300sd255.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-jU4zVDCAxcw/TwEepeI9QjI/AAAAAAAAC2Q/3bjBwsrH21A/s800/1980300sd256.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3PGtUUSlbCA/TwEer-wS2VI/AAAAAAAAC2U/T8ZyTBLKrTw/s800/1980300sd257.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 01 January 2012, 11:25 PM
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4XsP_Yhi9Jw/TwEet-bdewI/AAAAAAAAC2Y/2ZTWtJaecQU/s800/1980300sd258.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-6FtE2xq4KIg/TwEev2MxyoI/AAAAAAAAC2c/P9hcR7cbxOk/s800/1980300sd259.JPG)

The side clamps provided were too large, but I found a rubber strip that was the same width, so I cut it down and used it as a spacer. The slat clamps needed a bit of tweaking to get them to fit as well. These are some type of Asian manufacture, and true to form, they cut corners with the hardware.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-AGQmBwnk_08/TwEexL7xgpI/AAAAAAAAC2g/mlzBaNv9BIg/s800/1980300sd260.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: KenM on 02 January 2012, 06:17 AM
Wow Sqiggle, you're an artiste.

That deep clear gloss looks wonderful, it's wasted on a roof rack mate  8)

I'm sure you could get a job as a furniture restorer, or merc mechanic. Beautiful work.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: TJ 450 on 02 January 2012, 09:53 AM
The slats look unbelievable.

No doubt you have plans to restore the car's paint/clear coat at some stage, so the skills should come in quite handy.

Tim
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Type17 on 02 January 2012, 11:42 AM
Amazing finish, well done.


Best to get a set of felt-covered luggage for that rack - normal luggage will just scratch it  ;)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 02 January 2012, 12:38 PM
Thanks for the comments. I will certainly use padding whenever I place something on the roof rack.

My car is in dire need of a repaint. The clear coat keeps coming off in large strips. I estimate that in a year there will be none left, but the color coat underneath is bubbled and chipping. I'll be living in the Arizona desert in a few months, so even if the paint comes off completely at least it won't get much more than a light coat of surface rust.

I'll be saving my money for sure and will probably have a professional spray it, while doing all of the other labor myself like stripping and wet sanding. I'll probably be able to make a $2,000 paint job look like a $20,000 paint job if I do proper prep work and take the time to fine sand and buff the paint to make it like a mirror.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 20 January 2012, 03:33 PM
The Seattle area is having a historic snow storm. We rarely get any snow here; in fact, just one inch causes everything to shut down! We got seven inches of snow which melted, then froze into ice. There are downed trees, power cables, power outages, and dozens of crashes.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-b6HFij7qrmc/TxnNXvDcIcI/AAAAAAAAC44/dnGzG4Iic7U/s800/1980300sd261.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5XZQfCoWL7o/TxnNaNGxuoI/AAAAAAAAC5A/Z6NJQlG3_nM/s800/1980300sd262.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aPNdDiC4E58/TxnNdPGVVvI/AAAAAAAAC5I/Yi3LgHgLYyk/s800/1980300sd263.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ibGXK2oiPKo/TxnNfk0RDwI/AAAAAAAAC5Q/biM__B5vmgE/s800/1980300sd264.JPG)

The power cables have fallen down on the cars and the driveway is blocked. The City doesn't know if they can get anyone out today. The garbage trucks never came by on Wednesday and the mail truck got stuck in front of the house. We lost power last night, too.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ZdQ4zg6ylPk/TxnNjxcst9I/AAAAAAAAC5Y/G0WCJOyZOnU/s800/jan2012snow6.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Type17 on 20 January 2012, 03:40 PM
Wow, I was thinking of you when I saw a few days ago, a news report that a huge amount of snow was expected...


Bet you wish you had moved to AZ already!


Good luck, and stay safe...
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 20 February 2012, 07:44 PM
I just scored a sunroof deflector at the wrecking yard. It's the clip type and I got the hardware, but this is just a test fit. I think it helps tie in the roof rack and the main reason I wanted it was because I'm moving to Arizona, and sunroofs are practically useless to vent the car when it's hot because the sun beats down on you. This one is tinted so it will filter the amount of sunlight coming through.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Zy83QgVUS00/T0Lmkpe4n6I/AAAAAAAADHA/up5YQ8id0ak/s800/1980300sd265.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 23 February 2012, 10:03 PM
Today I installed the wind deflector. The first thing to do to install the clip type is to open the sunroof.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jw21KQ89CBE/T0W3qA25L-I/AAAAAAAADHs/NNAvcmtBC3M/s800/1980300sd266.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-DB4RBNl1nDI/T0W3uCBHh2I/AAAAAAAADH0/rhLeCG29Ypg/s800/1980300sd268.JPG)

The mounting clips will fit behind the felt seal holders at the foremost screws. I could sure use new seals if they weren't $100 a pair!
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ieHI28h7z_Q/T0W3v2LRVJI/AAAAAAAADH4/TSam9FqVpUs/s800/1980300sd269.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-2XoWdYykg6g/T0W3xtI2FuI/AAAAAAAADH8/gw6n_ye8nIA/s800/1980300sd270.JPG)

This is how the clips fit at the sides of the sunroof:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-2Fwp0N8Pzu8/T0W3zZHqi1I/AAAAAAAADIA/8301v2U8h6w/s800/1980300sd271.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 23 February 2012, 10:09 PM
The mounting screws were rusty and I didn't want to go to the hardware store, so I soaked them in Evapo-Rust, then painted POR-15 on the heads and ends.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4UCUp1OJj68/T0W30z0izNI/AAAAAAAADIE/YTDMchNo8aQ/s800/1980300sd272.JPG)

I then sprayed the whole screws with gloss black Rustoleum paint then set them in my handy holders (my old rear rotors) to spray the heads.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ZqEZEbqRarI/T0W32i8-gLI/AAAAAAAADII/aGaC15Tphao/s800/1980300sd273.JPG)

The deflector is installed and I love it. Now people will know I have a sunroof even when it's not open!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zATxz98PBCU/T0b6zbwLXKI/AAAAAAAADI4/JI7TmUAGFr0/s800/1980300sd274.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-oAtzdvuoXaA/T0b61ILBEOI/AAAAAAAADJA/uu8SaiZJMlU/s800/1980300sd275.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-1M5kQNPdI_c/T0b63QkBgCI/AAAAAAAADJI/zRnve0ciln8/s800/1980300sd276.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 23 February 2012, 10:14 PM
At the wrecking yard I got the clips I needed to finally put the rocker trim back on.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-5ccLmKwjiJM/T0b65NlP29I/AAAAAAAADJQ/wuq9S9E1vPs/s800/1980300sd277.JPG)

This should stop the wind from billowing in and making noise.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-IE8C_p_zolQ/T0b66ceS4VI/AAAAAAAADJY/cYRUOH8OFE4/s800/1980300sd278.JPG)

With the sunroof cracked, the tinted deflector will ventilate the car without the sun cooking me when I live in the desert.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-G4V7meeG0_M/T0b67mtejzI/AAAAAAAADJg/szO3zaVW2co/s800/1980300sd279.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Mforcer on 23 February 2012, 10:42 PM
That is looking good.

It does make me wonder, though, what else you can fit to the roof of your car :P
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 28 February 2012, 09:27 PM
Due to the fact that I am selling a 1966 fintail which was storing a bunch of my parts, I had to make room in the station wagon to put them. I had an upper rear seat half from a 6.9 that I was hanging onto because the frame was in good condition and so was the padding, but I decided to toss it because it was taking up too much space.

I also found the old bamboo rear seat skins from my last 300SD which I had replaced with better ones that I had found. I decided that, despite their condition, they would look better on my rear seat than the blue velour seat skins that were on it. The blue seat came from a Euro 6.9 in Texas and I had it shipped here through Greyhound for $106.35 (on top of the $100 I paid for the seat). Before this I had a poorly recovered seat with cheap vinyl on an extremely rusty frame and nails holding on the skins. And before that one I had a blue back seat from a W123 that didn't fit.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-DdUe9nkrDQE/T1xPqipRttI/AAAAAAAADVQ/WwgZGFOcp1k/s800/1980300sd280.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-yBs9wd0L_18/T1xPsfY4NsI/AAAAAAAADVY/agFJ_TaIW24/s800/1980300sd281.JPG)

I pulled out the rear seat and removed the blue skins. They are still intact, short of the fabric at the back that tends to tear. I noticed that the pad on the upper half of the seat was sagging, so I removed the one from the spare I had which was nice and firm. Even though both upper seat halves were from a 6.9, they were very different. One had coil springs in it, whereas the other didn't.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-F5cT-0qhshc/T1xPt_w5uxI/AAAAAAAADVg/KhiLJYaEc6o/s800/1980300sd282.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-lzyMuT_Oxck/T1xPv0zEYXI/AAAAAAAADVo/VozLLO6K5N0/s800/1980300sd283.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 28 February 2012, 09:40 PM
With the rear seat out, I noticed that there was water on the insulation.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Uoh8qKmfDG4/T1xPx4VpotI/AAAAAAAADVw/4u-3ZTb73Ds/s800/1980300sd284.JPG)

Pulling up the insulation, I could see a pool of water in which the wiring harness was submerged.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-DoyBJWBWdXE/T1xPzghPP9I/AAAAAAAADV4/bijADge6_7c/s800/1980300sd285.JPG)

I removed the drain plugs so the water would empty and I also removed the insulation since it was saturated. I am nervous about my rust-free seat frames rusting.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-gceLfhYgoEs/T1xP1Dcxe2I/AAAAAAAADWA/ROMhRxKGjNs/s800/1980300sd286.JPG)

The fabric on the backside and rear of the bamboo skins was missing, so I used spray adhesive to glue the padding strips in place. Luckily for me, it already had the grommets for rear headrests. The skins look wrinkly, but at least now they match the front seats. I'm going to get nice two-toned ones eventually.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-J3Bwe2DMRQs/T1xP24VHIAI/AAAAAAAADWI/s6jhlyYkixQ/s800/1980300sd287.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-20KHeYyEtUQ/T1xP5EA5oFI/AAAAAAAADWQ/MuiGHTNK16w/s800/1980300sd288.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 28 February 2012, 09:51 PM
I removed the blue headrest skins, which was interesting since I've not done it before. I used a pick to pull out the ends of the zippers and unzipped them with the pick. It appears that the skins have to be removed with the pads. The pads are glued to the headrest frames, so it took a while to separate them. Then the skins and pads bend over, allowing the headrest legs to pull through the holes in the skins. I decided not to glue the bamboo skin pads to the headrests because I'll be recovering them some day anyway.

I removed the sliding zipper piece from my wallet and used it to zip one headrest. It was hard to get it started because the ends were so rough. Then I tucked the ends in. The second headrest had a damaged zipper, so I closed it with a few safety pins.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-fsek2SH8W0M/T1xP7IXtCmI/AAAAAAAADWY/PQ4QzI71nsQ/s800/1980300sd289.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 28 February 2012, 10:33 PM
Today, there was good and bad. My roommate said there was a 1981 240D freshly brought into the yard that he wanted to look at to see if it had seat nets for his fintail. We got there, and sure enough, the car had the good older style, wide seat nets. So, we got those.

Then, I noticed that the wheels on the car had stripes indicating they were the rare "steel-look" aluminum wheels that I was wanting for my Universal fintail station wagon. Sadly, I only saw three, even though the car was literally just placed in the yard. I have a sinking feeling that one of the wheels was used to make a jackstand. Fortunately, there was one in the spare tire well, so I ended up with four, afterall.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-TfWJ47_SDkE/T02HtqckW2I/AAAAAAAADQY/ug34OGB6f9M/s800/14x5.5aluwheels.JPG)

Now here's the bad: these wheels had old, rotten tires on them. The yard said they wanted $60 for the tires on top of the cost of the wheels, even though the tires were bad. They marked them and told me to have them removed at a tire shop, and then bring them back within 72 hours. I was having second thoughts about getting the wheels, but I bought them anyway and spent $20 to have them dismounted at a tire shop.

I went straight back to the yard and they told me I couldn't return the tires because I have to do it within 72 hours. I said, "I was just in here earlier today!" Then they said, "We don't do returns here." I replied, "I can't even get store credit?" They said, "Find some tires and we'll exchange them for TIRES ONLY".

So, I looked at the tires on the rack, figuring I would find a set of 185/80R13s to give to my roommate for one of his fintails. The owner of the store came over to me and said, "Hey! Those tires don't count. You bought yard tires. You have to exchange them for tires from the yard, but you'll also have to pay for wheels again." I said that that was totally unfair, to which he answered, "Well, they probably shouldn't have charged you for those bad tires, but if you want a set of tires from the rack, I'll make you a fair deal on them."

Long story short, I found a mismatched set of 185/80R13s for my roommate, however one tire had a hole in the sidewall, while another was rotten, so I had to exchange them AGAIN for some better ones. At least I didn't have to pay any more money for them, but I spent $80 on tires I didn't even want.

And now my right rear door won't shut for some reason. It latches enough to not pop open, but it won't close--it's like the latch is jammed solid. The left rear door already wouldn't open from the outside and the left front door has a difficult time closing. The body definitely reflects the 310,000 miles on the odometer.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-JBcsXRkAE48/T1xP8hh87LI/AAAAAAAADWg/KuaaZKKlAAY/s800/1980300sd290.JPG)

Because the door won't shut all the way, I put a tarp on top of a car cover over the car to keep the water out. I'm tired of the floor and trunk being full of water. My move to Arizona can't come soon enough!
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-gnYv7mjxJMM/T1xP-X9j8DI/AAAAAAAADWo/3ydzxiEt6N8/s800/1980300sd292.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 28 February 2012, 11:22 PM
Slam the door HARD (easiest from inside) and it will latch fully - this is what two of my driver doors have.  Supposedly you just need to pull the outer handle and adjust the position of the red screw. I'd bet your rear window seal is leaking. I have nine of those rims now myself (two have minor curb dents) if you end up wanting a spare. The last 4 cost me $120 including a discount for the dings on two of them so you didn't do too bad though that's some b/s about the tires - most yards will remove tires for free. I got that same blue velour on the rear seat frame I bought from MB_Mike - velour is a much better material for the color...
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 29 February 2012, 02:15 AM
I slammed the door fairly hard a few times trying to shut it, but I was afraid of really slamming it and breaking something, though maybe that will work. When that door would close completely it was very loud. I wonder if there is a lack of lubrication inside that was causing it to be noisy until it finally seized. The 10 day forecast shows heavy rain every day, so I'm not looking forward to working on anything.

The rear windshield seal leaks badly. Whoever replaced the seal left parts of the old one in place. Pieces of the old seal are actually sticking out and wedged between the new seal and the glass. When it rains, the water pours into the backseat and trunk area. The front windshield and door seals are also bad.

I'd like to have another one of these wheels so I have a set of five. I'm hoping none of these wheels are bent. They look good, visually.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Big_Richard on 29 February 2012, 04:14 AM
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Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 29 February 2012, 10:18 AM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 29 February 2012, 02:15 AM
I slammed the door fairly hard a few times trying to shut it, but I was afraid of really slamming it and breaking something, though maybe that will work. When that door would close completely it was very loud. I wonder if there is a lack of lubrication inside that was causing it to be noisy until it finally seized. The 10 day forecast shows heavy rain every day, so I'm not looking forward to working on anything.
I suspect lubrication is a factor as mine got worse when it got colder out.  I know that if you replace the whole latching mechanism inside the door that the handle connects to and takes the three large-size loctite'd in phillips screws to hold it in, that can fix it.  In my case, that fix worked great, and then a few weeks later, the replacement one developed the same problem. :P  So next time I take it out, I plan on getting some sort of lubricant first to treat it.  I'm not in any particular hurry about this though, as that's on my 450SE which I can't really afford to drive much and leaks power steering and transmission fluid quite badly besides.  My personal feeling despite what I've heard is that the red screw adjusts the sensitivity of opening the door, not closing it.  But I'm not 100% about it yet.

QuoteThe rear windshield seal leaks badly. Whoever replaced the seal left parts of the old one in place. Pieces of the old seal are actually sticking out and wedged between the new seal and the glass.
Sounds like you have a good rear seal then.  Why not remove the window and seal, properly clean out all the old bits, and reseal it with some new sealant?  The rear window is not a hard job and that will work even with a dodgy seal for a while as long as it's not cracked too badly yet.  A cheap job and MUCH cheaper than letting rust issues grow worse.

QuoteI'd like to have another one of these wheels so I have a set of five. I'm hoping none of these wheels are bent. They look good, visually.
Would you mind a dented one for a spare?  I'd give you a sweet deal on one of them.  I'll also have it tested to make sure that it's only visual as I suspect and that the rim is still true.  I've also got a non-dented one that was the spare in a leaky trunk, so the steel clips and whatnot are corroded but the rim itself is in fine shape.  If you're interested in any I can send pictures. I might also consider selling one of the more pristine ones, but I want to hold on to the five best ones myself.  I intend to use them on my 200D once I can afford new tires, whereas the five 6" ones I have are still destined for my primary W116.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 29 February 2012, 12:12 PM
Quote from: Major Tom 6.9 on 29 February 2012, 04:14 AM
You know this post is second in place to the highest number of views of any topic in the forums history.

I think its soon going to pass that number and become number 1.

Well done Squiggle  8)

Yay!
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 29 February 2012, 12:22 PM
Quote from: Raptelan on 29 February 2012, 10:18 AM
I suspect lubrication is a factor as mine got worse when it got colder out.  I know that if you replace the whole latching mechanism inside the door that the handle connects to and takes the three large-size loctite'd in phillips screws to hold it in, that can fix it.  In my case, that fix worked great, and then a few weeks later, the replacement one developed the same problem. :P  So next time I take it out, I plan on getting some sort of lubricant first to treat it.  I'm not in any particular hurry about this though, as that's on my 450SE which I can't really afford to drive much and leaks power steering and transmission fluid quite badly besides.  My personal feeling despite what I've heard is that the red screw adjusts the sensitivity of opening the door, not closing it.  But I'm not 100% about it yet.

I replaced the mechanism on the door that wouldn't open and also adjusted the screw to where it worked great about two times. After that it would once more no longer open. The 450SEL at the wrecking yard is having the same problems with the latches. I think I have spares, but I am not looking forward to removing door panels.

Quote
Sounds like you have a good rear seal then.  Why not remove the window and seal, properly clean out all the old bits, and reseal it with some new sealant?  The rear window is not a hard job and that will work even with a dodgy seal for a while as long as it's not cracked too badly yet.  A cheap job and MUCH cheaper than letting rust issues grow worse.

The seal is starting to dry rot. I actually have a new MB seal, but it's such a pain to change them because all of the header panels have to come out and I remember it being frustrating to install them after I did the sunroof conversion. I'm also afraid they will get damaged because I have nowhere to store them. Then it rains constantly here and changing a windshield seal in the rain is almost impossible. Those awning things are expensive and my roommate doesn't like them because he says they look like trailer trash, plus the wind would knock it over anyway. On top of that, I first have to replace both windshield seals in my roommate's car, but the weather just won't cooperate, so it's been under a tarp for months.

QuoteWould you mind a dented one for a spare?  I'd give you a sweet deal on one of them.  I'll also have it tested to make sure that it's only visual as I suspect and that the rim is still true.  I've also got a non-dented one that was the spare in a leaky trunk, so the steel clips and whatnot are corroded but the rim itself is in fine shape.  If you're interested in any I can send pictures. I might also consider selling one of the more pristine ones, but I want to hold on to the five best ones myself.  I intend to use them on my 200D once I can afford new tires, whereas the five 6" ones I have are still destined for my primary W116.

I wouldn't mind a dented one if it could be repaired at a later time. The other one sounds interesting as well. But I might wait for a little while because I am still sick to my stomach about how much I spent at the yard. I've also got to move that red interior--that's another thing on my to-do list.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: koan on 29 February 2012, 03:05 PM
None of my business but:

Are you happy the way the roof rack sits?

To me it looks like it's about to slide off down the back window.

Anything you can do to even it up?

Sitting it a bit further forward, even an inch or two over the sunroof opening would make it look a lot better. Don't think you'd see it from the inside with the roof fully open as the sliding piece doesn't go that far back.

koan

Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 03 March 2012, 02:23 PM
Quote from: koan on 29 February 2012, 03:05 PM
None of my business but:

Are you happy the way the roof rack sits?

To me it looks like it's about to slide off down the back window.

Anything you can do to even it up?

Sitting it a bit further forward, even an inch or two over the sunroof opening would make it look a lot better. Don't think you'd see it from the inside with the roof fully open as the sliding piece doesn't go that far back.

koan

The roof rack sets about as good as it is going to be. I for sure don't want to go over the sunroof opening. The space between the opening and the rear windshield is perfect for the size of the roof rack. If I moved it forward at all, it would be off-center. I'd have to move it forward a lot in order for it to be closer to level. Right now it utilizes the space between the sunroof and rear windshield. There's really nothing I can do other than getting a larger rack that goes over the whole roof.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 11 March 2012, 02:46 AM
I have major water leaks from the rear windshield seal, because whoever replaced it last left chunks of the old seal underneath, which left gaps. The fit between the glass and seal is tight. I didn't want to mess with removing the glass this time of year, or dealing with removing half of the interior to get at the seal, so I thought I would try something.

I removed the trim covering the seal (all but two of the clips had broken off). Then, I wiped off the excess dirt and water from around the seal. I used plumber's putty, which is really cheap--probably less than $5 a tub at the hardware store--and put a bunch of it over where the body meets the seal. This is actually what the factory used on the older cars between the seal and body!

I was impressed with how well the putty stuck to dirty and wet surfaces. It is non-hardening, so it can be easily removed when I replace the seal. I made sure to cover the holes where the clips used to be. I think the putty helped hold the trim in place when I reinstalled it. I'm hoping this will slow down the leaks and get me by until I move to Arizona and replace all of the seals.

This is how we fix water leaks in the ghetto! I added some to the front seal, too. In other news, I tried shutting the right rear door and it closed with no problem--it must need lubrication.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-KcSsWQipECA/T1xUuuTuEiI/AAAAAAAADW0/RNX4Y3cc2kY/s800/1980300sd293.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6wwe0_jvBwg/T1xUxka8UhI/AAAAAAAADW8/_pC0uSaGkC8/s800/1980300sd294.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-I7CTgLyM8vU/T1xU0FK6KQI/AAAAAAAADXE/_QSviTlxbAc/s800/1980300sd295.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-8NlGvL1XtMI/T1xU6n4DVpI/AAAAAAAADXM/rFHbT_1LlAc/s800/1980300sd296.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-vFdIQJbVfU0/T1xU-XYGb3I/AAAAAAAADXc/gvB4PD-1iRM/s800/1980300sd298.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 11 March 2012, 03:05 AM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 11 March 2012, 02:46 AM
This is actually what the factory used on the older cars between the seal and body!
Older as in older than W116 or older including W116's?  I was wondering what sort of sealant to buy for this purpose.  I think I'd like to find something the correct black color, although with a good installation it should never be visible anyways...

This is a far better temporary solution than my dodgy silicon one. :P
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 11 March 2012, 03:07 AM
Quote from: Raptelan on 11 March 2012, 03:05 AM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 11 March 2012, 02:46 AM
This is actually what the factory used on the older cars between the seal and body!
Older as in older than W116 or older including W116's?  I was wondering what sort of sealant to buy for this purpose.  I think I'd like to find something the correct black color, although with a good installation it should never be visible anyways...

This is a far better temporary solution than my dodgy silicon one. :P

The 1960s W110/W111 fintails use this (most 1950s and 1960s American cars, too), but it's been recommended for use on as new as the W123 chassis. Then black 3M 8509 bedding compound goes between the glass and seal.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 14 April 2012, 12:35 AM
I am pleased to say that my fix of using plumber's putty around the rear windshield seal has been effective. Not only am I no longer getting condensation in the trunk, but today when I looked under the rear seat it was completely dry!
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-mEBlX7T_jNc/T4j_ogA6kBI/AAAAAAAADhE/uzIXZs5cw8E/s800/1980300sd299.JPG)

Almost all five of my seatbelts had something wrong with them--the front left wouldn't retract, was frayed, and the receiver already failed and was replaced before, the front right had a broken tongue, the left rear was rusty, the right rear had a broken receiver, and the rear center belt was rusty.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RXH8cbEA36g/T4j_r6LzjoI/AAAAAAAADhM/cJHM6iK2TLc/s800/1980300sd300.JPG)

Fortunately, there was a 1982 W123 300D Turbo at PickNPull that looked like it could have come straight off of Mercedesmotoring.com's showroom that had seatbelts that looked brand new. In fact, it was a real shame because it had the original beige paint in mint condition along with a perfect reddish brown interior. I had a $20 coupon and about $14 of store credit, so I figured five seatbelts would have only cost me about $10 after the coupon and store credit.

Well, when I had checked the price sheet it showed them as being $8.49 a piece. They rang up as $10.99 a piece. I asked why and the guy said that they raised their prices. Also, the seat belt receivers were $7.99 a piece--what the heck... So after their environmental fees and everything you're looking at a $100 bill for used seatbelts! I need to avoid that place. I really did need new belts, though, and these ones were the best I had seen by far.

The front belts have a 123 part number and look just like the originals, which had a narrower tongue than the what was on the rear. Before installation I cleaned them with Simple Green then sprayed the webbing with 303 Aerospace Protectant. I also popped off the plugs, added a few drops of transmission fluid inside, and on the sides of the spool.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yFVyd8TY9VE/T4j_t08rsUI/AAAAAAAADhU/sKAujjbdqgc/s800/1980300sd301.JPG)

They fit right into the W116 receivers.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-LNpJc6gAiIw/T4j_vXonHAI/AAAAAAAADhc/1HpbzJNtM2o/s800/1980300sd302.JPG)

It's nice having belts that fully retract.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Y26vT62VYmY/T4j_yrMlLuI/AAAAAAAADhk/iHJGX5h4kLU/s800/1980300sd303.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 14 April 2012, 12:52 AM
They have these Master Design clip thingies on the ends. I'm not sure what they are for, but I guess they are doing a good job of holding the tags in place.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-LY32P3P1C04/T4j_z6NZb5I/AAAAAAAADhs/u5exFDWOktM/s800/1980300sd304.JPG)

The left and right rear have 126 part numbers and match the fronts, unlike the original set that was in the car.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-_ZEetO0h3YA/T4kAOOGmLkI/AAAAAAAADh0/raCFO0hAr4U/s800/1980300sd305.JPG)

In order to use the new center belt (which has a W123 part number), I had to use the fatter receivers since they share an anchor with the belt. I'll probably put this type of receiver on the front so it's consistent. My passengers can't figure out that the release button is on the side, either. I ended up with two extra seatbelt holes, which I plugged with bolts and rubber washers.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-KUfuhHHH5HI/T4kAO7h1uPI/AAAAAAAADh8/4zrzIjqejKc/s800/1980300sd306.JPG)

I really like that the front and rear seatbelts match, and prefer the narrower tongue.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-8jZUiP2UB5I/T4kAQ7dszoI/AAAAAAAADiE/NIbsB6HAP9Y/s800/1980300sd307.JPG)

Speaking of matching, even the center belt matches. This is much nicer than the original which just had black paint over the chrome.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-eTkl6uaGPis/T4kARwbRRrI/AAAAAAAADiM/fx2-riejXp8/s800/1980300sd308.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 14 April 2012, 10:08 AM
I strongly prefer the older side button style and use them in my W123 as well. Don't give in to ignorant passengers! ;)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Papalangi on 14 April 2012, 03:38 PM
I still have the 450SEL and will have to give the plumbers putty a try.  It does leak between the glass and rubber but anything I can do to slow it down will help.

Michael
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 30 April 2012, 06:22 PM
My driver door has been annoying me and I noticed that the door holder arm bracket on the body came loose, despite a previous repair. Apparently a faulty door holder (check strap) in the past had broken the spot welds on the bracket and someone had repaired it by drilling holes and using rivets.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-zw8HYyAu8fY/T58XEx3TrwI/AAAAAAAAD58/DHNCzEzEPNY/s800/1980300sd309.JPG)

I removed the door holder and kick panel, which allowed me to reach inside to pull out the bracket. Apparently someone had drilled two smaller access holes above the large one.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oyVjHi6Asno/T58XHF17taI/AAAAAAAAD6E/6z8dHuEmEeM/s800/1980300sd310.JPG)

This is what was left of the door holder:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-FUqfP5cBH1E/T58XIqAbBYI/AAAAAAAAD6M/x7F_NvF61I0/s800/1980300sd311.JPG)

The only rivets I had were aluminum, and I didn't think they would hold, so I bored the holes that had already been drilled and used a self-tapping screw from my assortment of spare Mercedes hardware to cut threads (probably came from a power window regulator).
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Uq5v2skSLow/T58XK9oaLQI/AAAAAAAAD6U/0DzDqvqkLSc/s800/1980300sd312.JPG)

After cutting threads in the bracket, I found four matching flathead countersunk screws (probably from door releases or window cranks) that had the same thread pitch as the self-tapping screw.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-7FP2zZDI_oI/T58XMU59ywI/AAAAAAAAD6c/wiX3VucsugM/s800/1980300sd313.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 30 April 2012, 06:38 PM
I used the flathead screws because I didn't want them sticking out, and to aid in this, I used a larger drill bit to cut a bevel around the holes so that the screws could sink in. I'm not a fan of putting holes in things, but since they were already there, I might as well use them.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ru91R-G96K0/T58XOWu-p4I/AAAAAAAAD6k/OKXJ6fesSu0/s800/1980300sd314.JPG)

I am happy with the way the screws threaded in and fit. I think it will hold better than the rivets and should be as strong as the original spot welds.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-lOqDa6AvcIQ/T58XgWWfnJI/AAAAAAAAD6s/qlnazQhDnok/s800/1980300sd315.JPG)

Fortunately, I had a new old stock door holder.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6WIoZB1DUdU/T58Xja5-VwI/AAAAAAAAD60/MqsMEKW3cYk/s800/1980300sd316.JPG)

It needed some polishing, and I added fresh synthetic grease.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-svZmutBnSno/T58Xk3O20pI/AAAAAAAAD68/fv2kpL3NYp0/s800/1980300sd317.JPG)

I also had a set of four new door holder seals.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-jniwq3b676s/T58XrV7wfHI/AAAAAAAAD7M/gXIl6Fmf13s/s800/1980300sd318.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 30 April 2012, 06:51 PM
Here it is in place. I put the seal in what I think is the correct orientation... am I right?
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-PyYgQ3IVc4k/T58XtNSqMvI/AAAAAAAAD7I/Tw69EDtp6H8/s800/1980300sd319.JPG)

The door release was from a W123 and the rod didn't fit on the handle well. I didn't have a good spare front left one, so I took the handle off of a broken one by pressing out the roll pin, filing the W123 housing until it would fit, then installing the roll pin. It worked great.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ch5SmpI4gAo/T58XuxVQOfI/AAAAAAAAD7U/WrH3gHZkamQ/s800/1980300sd320.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-H6u99E0Qta8/T58XwXWoltI/AAAAAAAAD7c/UikI0u8G_zA/s800/1980300sd321.JPG)

When I was at PickNPull, I found a nice, shiny power steering pump cap and set of injector lines that looked nearly new. Even though they just got rid of a 450SEL, they just put out three more W116s!
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-r682EHK5CzM/T58Xx8hyRRI/AAAAAAAAD7k/cHvWlBwuF7o/s800/1980300sd322.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: cp361 on 30 April 2012, 10:36 PM
Where is this pick n pull with W116's I'm North of you and would be interested in some bits Turbo stuff like that.
Thanks
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 30 April 2012, 11:26 PM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 30 April 2012, 06:38 PM
I also had a set of four new door holder seals.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-jniwq3b676s/T58XrV7wfHI/AAAAAAAAD7M/gXIl6Fmf13s/s800/1980300sd318.JPG)
Where did you find these?  They are no longer available from the Classic Center...
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 30 April 2012, 11:28 PM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 30 April 2012, 06:51 PM
Here it is in place. I put the seal in what I think is the correct orientation... am I right?
Yes, but you forgot to paint the visible portion of the strap for OEM appearance. :)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 01 May 2012, 12:58 AM
Quote from: cp361 on 30 April 2012, 10:36 PM
Where is this pick n pull with W116's I'm North of you and would be interested in some bits Turbo stuff like that.
Thanks

It's the one at 2416 112th Street S, Lakewood, WA 98499.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 01 May 2012, 01:01 AM
Quote from: Raptelan on 30 April 2012, 11:26 PM
Where did you find these?  They are no longer available from the Classic Center...

I found these on eBay along with the new door holder. It's a funny story, actually; the seller had two auctions, both for door holders, but instead of getting two door holders, I got one door holder and the set of 4 new seals instead. I think I only paid $10 for the lot, so that's not bad.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: jbrasile on 04 May 2012, 08:57 AM
Squiggle,

Good for you! Those seals are NLA from MB!

Tks,

Joe
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 19 May 2012, 06:24 PM
My air cleaner bracket tore its rubber mounts again and the mounting arm had already broken and was brazed together, not to mention I had mismatched air cleaner parts (air cleaner base with broken oil separator and early lid with no oil separator hole, early U-tube with hole for breather) in rough condition, so I decided it was time to correct things.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-b7R8pmIhTjM/T7ghrQmjFoI/AAAAAAAAEEU/52h_NbYWJpU/s800/1980300sd323.JPG)

There was almost no paint left on the air cleaner body; just rust. The threaded stud for mounting the lid was also stripped.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kLw9CKMlOwo/T7ght1IPn2I/AAAAAAAAEEc/IVQ-OnoPIpE/s800/1980300sd324.JPG)

I got a replacement oil separator at PickNPull along with a lid with a hole for it. I bent the tabs and off it came.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-9CD8LmqSJXo/T7ghvwsEqFI/AAAAAAAAEEk/rgN5AuiDwuY/s800/1980300sd325.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-QApwyq3ula4/T7ghxfgTRPI/AAAAAAAAEEs/oNhE2MhydsE/s800/1980300sd326.JPG)

I purchased a new Meyle heavy duty air cleaner bracket kit from a local vendor. Looking at it, the metal appears to be the same thickness as stock, but I can see that there are two extra indentations on one side arm to help stiffen it. There was a washer glued to it that is supposed to help strengthen it, but it fell off immediately. So, now all it does is help the washer above it to lay flat against the indentation.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-hL6uq3z7b5o/T7ghyrl_rJI/AAAAAAAAEE0/H663Al4srVE/s800/1980300sd327.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 19 May 2012, 06:48 PM
Hopefully this new Meyle bracket holds up. It's supposedly the strongest one made. I got new heat shields for the rubber mounts, too. I didn't bother with the locknuts and instead used stock nuts with split washers and thread lock. I also took a rubber spacer from a coolant overflow hose and installed it over the oil drain tube to act as a sealing sleeve for the bottom of the oil separator on the air cleaner.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tvr6fIvk3oI/T7gh2qn4aLI/AAAAAAAAEE8/iy6RQcGdaPQ/s800/1980300sd328.JPG)

Since my old U-tube had a breather hole in it that I would no longer need (and didn't want to mess with trying to plug it), I purchased a new one that was an updated version with a different part number (old one was 617 098 01 01, new one is 617 098 05 01). It was a little longer than the old one, so I had to make sure the rubber air cleaner mounts were moved to the forwardmost holes. The casting also had too much material along the seams in the holes where the rubber seal rings go, so I had to grind the excess material until the seal rings would fit (I used new ones).
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LIMg5SyN6Fg/T7gh4hloFFI/AAAAAAAAEFE/PlZXwmfHQmE/s800/1980300sd329.JPG)

I used naval jelly and sanded off as much of the rust on the air cleaner housing as I could, then primed and painted it with Krylon Rust Tough Semi-Flat Black paint (which is a close match to the semigloss black paint Mercedes uses).
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-C9vzlCWZa64/T7gh6PxW2sI/AAAAAAAAEFM/DGvNSnK7KWI/s800/1980300sd330.JPG)

I purchased a new grommet for the breather on the air cleaner lid (000 094 16 60--does not show up in the EPC) and a new breather tube. I decided I wanted a wing nut to hold on the lid so I wouldn't have to use a socket each time, so I used a power steering pump lid wing nut with a little thread lock to keep it from rattling off, especially since there aren't many good threads left on the stud. I'm happy with how it turned out--it's a lot better than what it had before and now the oil vapors from the valve cover go into an oil separator and drain back into the crankcase instead of going directly into the turbo.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-27PdQKpQs4Q/T7gh9ShcTNI/AAAAAAAAEFU/8MhBDpnV1Uk/s800/1980300sd331.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-fRS-sWAvQZQ/T7gh--X-zCI/AAAAAAAAEFc/oTZYm_S_sh8/s800/1980300sd332.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: gavin116 on 20 May 2012, 07:20 AM
Hi Scott

Great write up again, and what a transformation.  If only there was an easy way to sandblast the valve cover as a DIY project...

If our rainy weather ever stops, I have a few bits that I want to do on the car.  Bought all new rubbers for the rear bumper, so will be removing the old, hopefully only a little bit of rust treatment on the rails, and installing the new.  Will be redoing my electric aerial in the correct position on the rear left fender (thanks to AdamB for giving me the Hirschman unit), and also installing all new (second hand actually) seat belts in the rear, and replacing the front ones.  They will then all be Mercedes stock.  What would you recommend for cleaning the old webbing as I remember that you recently done a seatbelt refurbishment?  I have also bought some new Becker speakers for the rear to change the brand new speakers that just don't fit.

Regards

Gavin

P.S. on the removal of the blue tint from your rear windscreen, have you tried rubbing compound or a brass cleaner?  Don't use it on the de-mister side of the glass as it will remove the de-mister.  If this is unavoidable, you can always graft one of these onto the window: http://www.frostfighter.com/prt2600.htm
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: TJ 450 on 20 May 2012, 08:32 AM
That's looking very neat. :)

Tim
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 20 May 2012, 10:05 AM
Quote from: gavin116 on 20 May 2012, 07:20 AM
If only there was an easy way to sandblast the valve cover as a DIY project...

Just take it off and use a combination of a copper scouring pad and engine degreaser.  Doesn't come out half bad:

(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/38156-1/IMG_0143.jpg)

(the smudges you see are from me leaning on it after cleaning it, to get the replacement manifolds installed)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 20 May 2012, 10:09 AM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 19 May 2012, 06:48 PM
Hopefully this new Meyle bracket holds up. It's supposedly the strongest one made.
I personally think it's a bit excessive advertising, but eh...I bought one too. :P

The thing is that if you're breaking brackets routinely then your engine is shaking entirely too much, and that's something you need to tend to.  How are your motor mounts and shocks?  Valves?  etc.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 20 May 2012, 12:59 PM
Gavin, I cleaned the seatbelt webbing with a mild solution of Simple Green and water. Then I dressed them with 303 Aerospace Protectant. I haven't tried very hard to remove the blue tint, but it seems like it would be stubborn. Interesting link about the defroster kits.

I'm eventually going to replace the valve cover because this one has wear marks on it. I plan on polishing it to look like chrome. I'm probably going to polish the radiator top to make it match the coolant reservoir. I've found biodiesel is the best degreaser in the world--just don't let it get on anything made of rubber because it will melt it.

The original air cleaner bracket could have been broken for a while. I replaced the second one because it was brazed together and I didn't trust its integrity. The rubber mounts that broke were really old and rotted even when I installed them.

The engine runs smoothly (valves are adjusted), but I know I need new engine mounts because the passenger side one is almost totally collapsed. Still, I know new ones are a bit pricey, and I'll want to replace the engine shock absorbers, too. I'm hoping to get moved to the new place and settled in so I know how much extra money I'll have to work with. I just want to be sure I have enough money to get down to Arizona.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 20 May 2012, 07:16 PM
Where did you find heat shields for the rubber mounts? I've never seen those.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 21 May 2012, 03:57 PM
The part number for the air cleaner mount heat shields is 617 094 02 20. They are factory and help keep the turbo heat from prematurely aging the rubber. I got mine here: http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=abinvy55cedqjh55iay5ho55&makeid=800016@Mercedes&modelid=1193992@300SD&year=1980&cid=22@Fuel%20%26%20Air%20System&gid=5886@Air%20Cleaner%20Fastener (http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=abinvy55cedqjh55iay5ho55&makeid=800016@Mercedes&modelid=1193992@300SD&year=1980&cid=22@Fuel%20%26%20Air%20System&gid=5886@Air%20Cleaner%20Fastener) .
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 26 May 2012, 08:38 PM
I bought new rubber fuel door bumpers and replaced the filler grommet with one I got at PickNPull. I painted the grommet with rubber/vinyl/plastic paint to help protect it against spilled biodiesel. I also painted the cap with Krylon chrome paint and replaced the gasket with a biodiesel-compatible one. You can see how the biodiesel melted the old filler grommet.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-KAIrk87c0mA/T8GCIePZ6pI/AAAAAAAAEHk/rGY57sog9SY/s800/1980300sd333.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-z3-Br9tFREQ/T8GCJ4aqsYI/AAAAAAAAEHs/5Ti3MMZKumA/s800/1980300sd334.JPG)

One nagging problem I've had since I've owned the car was a missing accelerator pedal. The mount that was welded to the body rusted and broke. Driving with only the rod was uncomfortable.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-OFGVap18hIw/T8GCLnQu_oI/AAAAAAAAEH0/fLFt1GB_Khg/s800/1980300sd335.JPG)

I finally addressed the problem by purchasing a new accelerator pedal mount from Mercedes-Benz (part number 116 616 00 20), which was only about $10. It even comes with a hole to bolt it to the floor. At first I wasn't sure if I wanted to bolt it in, or have it welded, but after seeing the condition of the floor and how stuck the old mount was, I decided to just bolt it in.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-xZzWRxU8cMo/T8GCPajmARI/AAAAAAAAEH8/d9IcaB1bRoQ/s800/1980300sd336.JPG)

I used a Dremel tool and a cutting wheel to remove the curved part of the pedal mount and ground it until it was flat.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-dfSQFcGpiHk/T8GCRVYqMxI/AAAAAAAAEIE/625SoIDiW9U/s800/1980300sd337.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 26 May 2012, 08:51 PM
I drilled a 5/16" hole through what was left of the old mounting plate. Then I used a wire brush and sanded the loose rust off of the floor, followed by an application of Rust Doctor, which converts the rust into magnetite.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-oOvQwTOTZrw/T8GCS5e5jKI/AAAAAAAAEIM/NvJzruGnNKs/s800/1980300sd338.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-FtLku0kuwSE/T8GCUkNcG5I/AAAAAAAAEIU/HNO5WER0_YI/s800/1980300sd339.JPG)

I found a factory nut, bolt, and washer that were the perfect size. I laid down a layer of JB Weld before setting down the plate to fill any spaces and to keep the plate from rotating. I also had a small rust-through area to fill.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-TWutfjzOABw/T8GCWp3RMYI/AAAAAAAAEIc/dCSkMu48dBc/s800/1980300sd340.JPG)

The fender washer sunk in flush with the undercoating and I used thread locker on the nut.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hGqlCV9bqXg/T8GCYZes7sI/AAAAAAAAEIk/-4oPhnAnNt8/s800/1980300sd341.JPG)

I actually completely disassembled, cleaned, and lubricated the pedal/throttle linkage assembly. So smooth! I had a bent linkage that was easy to straighten, and I replaced the accordion grommet on the firewall with a used, untorn one. Now I finally have an accelerator pedal. I also found good brake and parking brake pads, so I installed those as well. One more nagging problem solved on a tight budget.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jU_OODDridQ/T8GCZiKXOHI/AAAAAAAAEIs/nvIUcWYVkY0/s800/1980300sd342.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: TJ 450 on 26 May 2012, 09:44 PM
Very good work. It's amazing what can be achieved with such a small outlay in terms of cost on these cars if you DIY. 8)

It looks as good as new, and luckily the soundproofing was removed. Did you do that or was it like that already?

Tim
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 26 May 2012, 09:54 PM
Quote from: TJ 450 on 26 May 2012, 09:44 PM
Very good work. It's amazing what can be achieved with such a small outlay in terms of cost on these cars if you DIY. 8)

It looks as good as new, and luckily the soundproofing was removed. Did you do that or was it like that already?

Tim

Thank you. I removed the soundproofing, though it was in rough shape and I ended up putting it back in so the carpet would lay somewhat flat.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 18 June 2012, 10:02 PM
You all laughed at me for installing a roof rack, but today it proved to be useful for shipping large car parts:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-R7Gs2mlIQJ8/T9_gHB-chVI/AAAAAAAAESQ/P8nYyHhovm0/s800/1980300sd343.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-nbPP7x7FAZQ/T9_gJ_R52sI/AAAAAAAAESY/krRQqC9C2Nw/s800/1980300sd344.JPG)

There is no way that box would have fit in the trunk.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Tony66_au on 19 June 2012, 02:49 AM
They wouldn't deliver it?

I usually make it a condition of sale lol
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 19 June 2012, 06:57 AM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 18 June 2012, 10:02 PM
There is no way that box would have fit in the trunk.
Sure there is! Clearly what you need to do is remove the rear seat and sunroof, move the back window and gas tank forward, and make yourself one of those crazy coupes like you posted pictures of before.  Anything will fit in one of those trunks - even another W116 for the tow home! ;)

There's a nice white on red W108 near me with a roof rack. If it was a LWB I think I'd try to buy it. Beautiful car.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 19 June 2012, 01:12 PM
Quote from: Tony66_au on 19 June 2012, 02:49 AM
They wouldn't deliver it?

I usually make it a condition of sale lol

There are 6 door panels in that box. I was taking them to the post office to ship down to a buyer in California. I only got $10 for all 6, but at least I don't have to take them with me to Phoenix, now.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 19 June 2012, 01:13 PM
Quote from: Raptelan on 19 June 2012, 06:57 AM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 18 June 2012, 10:02 PM
There is no way that box would have fit in the trunk.
Sure there is! Clearly what you need to do is remove the rear seat and sunroof, move the back window and gas tank forward, and make yourself one of those crazy coupes like you posted pictures of before.  Anything will fit in one of those trunks - even another W116 for the tow home! ;)

There's a nice white on red W108 near me with a roof rack. If it was a LWB I think I'd try to buy it. Beautiful car.

That W108 sounds nice.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Tony66_au on 21 June 2012, 02:07 AM
Ahh well then I applaud your dedication to the preservation efforts of 116 bits, I know many would have junked the lot to avoid the hassle and what you are doing makes you a King amongst men!

And for this I shall cease sniggering every time I see your roof rack.....  :-)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 10 July 2012, 03:20 PM
I've been away for a while due to a move from Tacoma, Washington to Phoenix, Arizona. If I could sum up the move in one word, it would be "nightmare".

I arranged to have a transporter pick up four of my roommate's cars plus my 300SD to take them to Arizona. Though we were flexible on the pickup date, the condition was that the cars could not be delivered before July 3rd because we wouldn't have possession of the property yet. After stating this to the dispatcher, and then to the actual transport company, they arranged to pick up the cars on June 26th. Once the cars were loaded, the transporter said he will see us on the 28th. I said, "Oh no, they can't be delivered that soon. We won't even be in Arizona at the time and there will be no one there to receive them!" After talking with the lead at the transport company, and telling them of his mistake, he said he will have them dropped off at a nearby storage lot. I told him that I guess that would have to do. Needless to say, my roommate was not happy.

I had picked up a 26' moving truck with car trailer (for my 1967 Mercedes Universal station wagon) from Penske earlier in the day, and I started to back the trailer into the driveway so I could detach it. We separated the trailer, but Penske's trailers don't have a wheel up front and so you have to try to move it by manhandling and lifting it. The wheels of the trailer were in a ditch, so moving it was difficult. I placed a jack underneath the tongue as we pushed. The jack tipped over and the tongue of the trailer fell down onto my foot. I was wearing steel toed boots, but the steel toe really only protects the first toe. It crushed my foot and I had to have my roommate help me to lift it off because the trailer weighs 2,000lbs. With the truck still out in the road, the cars headed down to Arizona, and the loading still ahead of us, what I felt was pure horror.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uSQdqBwh_qg/T_yKbPe60BI/AAAAAAAAEUg/lsvSPZOvcAM/s800/DSC07110.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 10 July 2012, 03:44 PM
My foot was in bad shape, but thankfully my roommate had his brother come over to help load the truck (and it's a good thing most of the household was already boxed). They worked hard and managed to completely fill the truck before the day I was to leave. I am so thankful, (especially to my roommate's brother) that they were able to make the deadline. I paid to have professional movers come and help with the heavy items, especially the antique piano. A nice neighbor came by with crutches.

My roommate flew down to secure the house and I drove down (thankfully the truck had an automatic transmission and it wasn't my driving foot that was hurt). Once my and my roommate's dogs were in the cab, I started driving the truck. Getting the dogs in and out of the truck cab for rest stops was very difficult with an injured foot, but I made it happen.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Eff9GzWY3Wo/T_yTkB8kK5I/AAAAAAAAEU4/pbA8qZnEDlM/s800/puppiesluvdasunz.jpg)

Due to the 55 MPH truck speed limit and bad roads, I ended up driving 15 hours and at 5 AM I was still two hours away from the reserved motel, so I stopped at the nearest one, which only had one vacancy--a smoking room on the second floor, so I took it. I had to use a combination of crutches and crawling to get both dogs up to the second floor motel room, which was a long distance away from where I parked the truck.

After 5 hours of sleep, I took the dogs out of the motel room and checked out, then drove about another 15 hours and made it to the second motel that I had reserved. Fortunately, this one was on the first floor. One thing that was troubling me is that my roommate's Great Dane (Noxi) hadn't peed in three days, despite my efforts to get her to go the whole time. Right after I drifted off to sleep at about 6 AM, I heard water running and looked to see her peeing on the floor in the motel. So, I got up again, took her outside, (now it's daylight) and she still wouldn't pee outside. I took her back in, got about 4 hours of sleep, then drove the rest of the way to Phoenix. The drive into Phoenix was very beautiful with the saguaro cacti.

Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 10 July 2012, 03:50 PM
Once I got to Phoenix, I hired professional movers--and to my amazement, they pushed my station wagon into the driveway and unloaded the entire 26' truck in only 5 hours! They even got the 900lb piano out of the truck, even though it almost broke the loading ramp. I'll probably have to use them again, since I had to leave most of my possessions (my bicycle, all of my tools, all of my spare car parts) back at the old house since there wasn't room in the truck for them. I'm thinking of flying back up there, renting another truck, hiring movers to help me load the truck, then driving back down, and hiring movers to unload the truck.

The transporter dropped off our cars at a local storage lot (since they arrived way too early). Our cars were covered in oil like someone had dumped a barrel all over them (even though our cars were loaded on the top of the transporter truck). My 300SD was so bad that I couldn't see through any of the windows and had to have the owner of the lot clean the glass so I could see to drive it. The rear license plate of one of my roommate's cars was ripped off and I had to pay the owner of the lot $300 of my own money for storing them for a couple of days. Also, the transporter dropped off a vintage Jaguar that was destined for Beverly Hills, but the transporter abandoned it at the Phoenix lot and the owner of the lot said he didn't know who owned the car and was trying to give it away to us. Someone in Beverly Hills is going to be very upset!

I'm loving the hot weather (it was 114 Fahrenheit when I got here, and has been well over 100 every day), but my roommate's car (the newest one, and the only one with air conditioning) is dead, so we haven't had AC in our cars as we've driven around during the day. I had over $2,000 saved away so that I could install air conditioning in the 300SD, but since I injured my foot and all of these other costs are adding up, I'm going to be back in debt thousands of dollars very soon.

I went to the doctor and the X-rays show my foot is broken in four places. Now it's infected, so I'm on antibiotics and am hoping I don't lose my foot. The doctor is going to try to set the 4th toe (which was badly displaced) in a week if the infection goes away, since I can't afford surgery and have no insurance (no job, either). I'll probably have to get a desk job since I can no longer work in a warehouse and will be off of my foot for at least two months.

At least my 300SD is here safely (after a run through the car wash).
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-zKuRyspAG5Y/T_yKe31c-SI/AAAAAAAAEUo/vz6IKIFxg8c/s800/1980300sd345.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: GypsyKingg on 10 July 2012, 04:47 PM
This has been one of the most amazing things I have ever read.....
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Type17 on 10 July 2012, 05:07 PM
Holy fuuuck  :o


Hang in there...
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: gavin116 on 10 July 2012, 05:08 PM
Hi Squiggle

The glint of the sun off the chrome is such a wonderful site.  I don't think we are ever going to get sun again in the UK. :-[

Get well soon.

Gavin
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: JasonP on 10 July 2012, 05:48 PM

Welcome back, and home! Great story, sorry about your foot.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: zedster on 10 July 2012, 06:04 PM
Sorry about your foot. Phoenix is gonna bake that car! :(
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Tony66_au on 12 July 2012, 05:51 AM
Sounds like a nightmare move man!

Look after that foot eh?
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 13 July 2012, 01:24 PM
Thanks for the responses. I'm planning to tint the windows darker and go back to the original Walnut Brown, but that takes money, and lots of it. My car is actually supposed to be parked in the garage, but there are lots of boxes in there and I'm not able to move them.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: KenM on 14 July 2012, 03:05 AM
Geez Squiggle I hope your luck turns soon mate, you had a poor run with losing your job and now your foot, this move sounds nightmarish as you say, bet you won't be relocating again any time soon?
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: littlefin on 23 July 2012, 06:51 PM
Hey Squiggle!
Only just caught up with your news -  so sorry to hear about your nightmarish move.
God, your foot sounds grim - but at least you haven't got any more problems keeping warm & dry eh?
Keep your spirits up, I'm sure things will come good for you soon. Have the dogs got used to the new place yet?
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 24 July 2012, 02:05 PM
The change of climate is very nice. Neither my or my roommate's daily drivers have air conditioning, yet even at 115 degrees Fahrenheit the heat is tolerable. I wouldn't want to be doing hard labor out in the sun all day, though. The house here was built in 2005 and was recently refurbished.

Due to leaving the doors open during the renovation and the house being vacant, the house was full of crickets and roaches. We also found two scorpions in the house. But other than that, it is a much nicer house than the one we had in Washington; it's larger, has a two-car garage, larger rooms, a guest house, all at a fraction of the cost of the old house. The utilities are also cheaper. It costs less money to cool the house than it cost to heat the house in Washington, plus the water here is way cheaper, even though Arizona is a desert and in Washington you drown in water. Strange, huh?

I'm going back to Washington next week to get my car parts, tools, bicycle, etc. I'm flying up and will have some movers put the stuff in a Penske cargo van that I will drive to Utah for my sister's wedding, then I'll drive the rest of the way back to Arizona.

The dogs are doing fine here. They don't like to be outside due to the heat (and being scared of crickets). It took them some getting used to the tile and hardwood floors.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 11 August 2012, 07:15 PM
I have been very busy lately! I had to go to the emergency room for an infection in my foot and an allergic reaction to the antibiotic. After the visit I still had a rash all over my body and extremely puffy eyes. I had my relatives come over to give me a blessing of wellness.

A couple days later I flew back to Washington and picked up a 16' rental truck to get my bicycle, tools, and car parts. The house had no electricity or water, but I camped out there with some friends who loaded the moving truck. I also hired two professional movers to help them get it loaded. Well, they got the truck loaded in one day, but it turned out that my roommate still had a lot of stuff there that he wanted brought back, so after loading his things there was almost no room left for my stuff. I got my bicycle, tools, and a few of my car parts on, but had to leave the majority of my car parts behind once again.

I drove the moving truck to Utah to attend my sister's wedding. It was a good experience and I got to see many people I hadn't seen in years. I was also able to sneak away for my 10 year high school class reunion. It was a small turnout, but it was nice to see some people that I hadn't seen in years.

My roommate called to tell me that someone had gotten into my 300SD and threw the papers in the glovebox all over. Fortunately, it seems nothing was stolen and even the radio was still in it. He proceeded to lecture me on locking my doors, though I physically cannot lock them since something is wrong with the vacuum system and my keys don't even fit the door locks.

I drove from Utah to Arizona and I had movers scheduled to unload the truck at 8 AM the next morning by the same moving company that had unloaded the truck the last time and done a great job. I waited around for the movers, and at 9 AM I called to ask if they were on their way. The owner told me that he was on vacation and forgot about the appointment. He apologized and said he would come out personally with a couple of workers and today I would get "great service".

Three hours later two lazy-looking guys in a beat-up car with no front end rolled up. One of them asked me if I had a computer and could get him the number for Check Into Cash. I did so and he proceeded to call them and talk to them about paying off a loan. When they started working they weren't very careful with things and broke my roommate's large decorative pot. After working for two hours they got really antsy about wanting to get out of here and were constantly asking if their boss had called me yet. It took them four hours to do what should have been a two hour job.

When they were done I called the owner about the broken pot and then he had me give them the phone so he could speak with them privately. The owner said he would make it right with me if I gave him a value, so I told him I would ask my roommate what he thought it was worth and would call him back. When the movers drove off, they left a large run-over soft drink cup in the road that I had to pick up.

When I called back the owner and told him my roommate valued the pot at $50, he proceeded to tell me that he was only liable for 60 cents a pound, etc. and that he wouldn't pay because his guys said that my roommate and I were helping them unload the truck, which caused the load to shift and the pot to break. I told him that wasn't possible, because my roommate was not even there at the time (he was at an unemployment meeting) and I was on crutches and not able to lift anything (the movers were obviously lying to protect themselves).

So, I sent him pictures of the broken pot and am trying to get him to make things right with my roommate. The first time they were so good, but this last time they gave horrible service. I actually expected a discount, or at least for the owner to show up to help and "give great service" like he had said since they "forgot" about the appointment.

After the moving fiasco was over, I went to the podiatrist's office to see how my foot was doing. The doctor said that three of the broken toes were nearly healed and he was even bending them. The bones in the worst of the toes were still too far apart to heal, but had moved closer since the last time I was there. The infection is nearly gone as well. The doctor said I could start walking short distances in my walking boot, so now I can walk a little and carry light objects.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-71o-dBABleI/UCbrDs4t0-I/AAAAAAAAEXE/N-nF92cM9qU/s800/DSC07188.JPG)

The 300SD now has a place in the garage next to my roommate's car.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-_rx3gwIpbRA/UCbzkvPfsDI/AAAAAAAAEX8/zmbAKI3KC5o/s800/1980300sd346.JPG)

When I was at my mother's house, I picked up a package that I had delivered there from w116.org forum member sclass. I had it delivered there because I didn't know where I would be living at the time it was shipped. It took the postal service three months to deliver it from South Africa, but it was well worth the wait. Inside was a long-searched-for oil pan skid plate for my 300SD along with a spare set of manual window regulators (including a couple window crank pads that match my interior). Not only did sclass make me a great deal on the parts, but he even went so far as to have the skid plate powdercoated for me! It arrived looking like a brand new part. I am so happy with my purchase and it has helped take my mind off of the difficulties in my life. I am glad that there are people in my life that care.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GWWIOEJzzws/UCbzl1H1wiI/AAAAAAAAEYE/q7GEU2CEdU0/s800/1980300sd347.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kAUW9vo6R24/UCbjwd8v27I/AAAAAAAAEWc/BomoJGXp0Hc/s800/1980300sd348.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-F3tb94LIr44/UCbkIW7qByI/AAAAAAAAEWk/-q5DKXiKXKE/s800/1980300sd349.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 11 August 2012, 07:33 PM
Nice oil pan skid plate!  Oh how I want one of those...
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 07 November 2012, 08:14 PM
It's been a while since I've posted an update. I'm walking around fine now. The foot is healed about as good as it is going to get, though one of the toes is still broken and I'll just have to live with it. I was given another $1,000 hospital bill, and then after this my dog got an abscessed tooth that caused her face to swell up and required $300 worth of treatment. So, I have a mountain of debt and no way to pay it since my unemployment barely pays my rent, food, and car insurance. I'm really hoping to find a good job soon.

I think that my spare parts back in Washington are doomed. The house is being foreclosed on and I don't think I'll ever be able to afford to make a trip up there. It's such a shame because I have NOS taillights, Euro lights, wiper system with wiring harness and squirters, boxes and boxes of parts all destined for the dump.

After 3 months of trying to get a response from the movers who broke my roommate's vase, blaming it on me claiming I was helping them unload the truck, while I wasn't even able to walk or carry anything (and hearing the company owner tell me that he was a man of his word, and would pay me $50 of his own money if the insurance denied it, I have nothing to worry about, etc.) I finally got him on the phone and he starts to say that he doesn't think the vase is worth $50, then backtracks and says that he sent cash in the mail (which I never received), and kept giving me excuses, so I finally told him off, hung up, wrote bad reviews on every website I could, then contacted the Better Business Bureau. If nothing else, it might make him think twice before taking advantage of his customers.

Then... my rear wheel has been making a squealing noise, so I lifted up the car to see what was going on. When the car was in the air, I noticed the the auto transporters that delivered the cars too early, abandoned them in storage yard that I had to pay $300 of my own money to get out, left them covered with oil so thick I couldn't see out of any of the windows, had damaged the underside of my car! The driver ripped one of the tow bar mounts almost clean off.

This picture is what they are supposed to look like:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-P0eC3ArcHrk/UJr6yYOQ21I/AAAAAAAAEhs/sKem91P_CMM/s800/1980300sd351.JPG)

And here is what they did to the other one:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EkrrlsGOGb0/UJr63UgrU5I/AAAAAAAAEh0/W4VvFQApl_U/s800/1980300sd352.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-U1q5oTs8hUE/UJr67itQX0I/AAAAAAAAEiE/WUd1mpW13jg/s800/1980300sd353.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-gwKAkksrkQo/UJr69tF_DqI/AAAAAAAAEiM/zRxbX7U-s04/s800/1980300sd354.JPG)

So, now when I have a tow bar made, I am also going to have to have the mount repaired. Also, they scraped up the underside of the trunk area.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-YoawY42x884/UJr7BWuq2sI/AAAAAAAAEic/0RJNs-mv8CA/s800/1980300sd355.JPG)

Sadly, it's been 4 months since the cars were dropped off, so I probably have no case. Though, I never did sign off on any paperwork because the driver abandoned the cars and took off days before I arrived in Phoenix. This whole moving experience has been very difficult. Some good news is that I found a local fuel station that sells B99 biodiesel for about the same price as diesel, so I've been running my car on biodiesel again.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 07 November 2012, 08:39 PM
The squeaking rear wheel ended up being that horrible Meyle parking brake shoe kit I bought (the only shortcut I took when I rebuilt the entire brake system). I had to grind off more metal from the inside of the shoes so they would not drag. The next time I am buying genuine Mercedes shoes or having a set of originals relined.

I was going to install my oil pan skid plate, but I have to figure out how to attach it.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GWWIOEJzzws/UCbzl1H1wiI/AAAAAAAAEYE/q7GEU2CEdU0/s800/1980300sd347.JPG)

It looks like the frame is dimpled where the holes should to be drilled, but I need a W116 owner with a skid plate to confirm exactly how these are mounted.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Dzdh1o1RofU/UIybrj6Z--I/AAAAAAAAEgk/WTsnjIbmwR0/s800/1980300sd350.JPG)

I registered my car in Arizona, which doesn't issue front license plates, so I got a nice license plate blank on eBay for $26.99 and free shipping.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-kuf1F8ZmiLw/UJr7DUoFJLI/AAAAAAAAEik/D6sUXiFugUQ/s800/1980300sd356.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Ud7iE4jbhls/UJr7Fb5ORMI/AAAAAAAAEis/7u2911hUL74/s800/1980300sd357.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: JasonP on 08 November 2012, 03:05 AM
QuoteI think that my spare parts back in Washington are doomed.

No Club Members in Washington can help a brother out? I would, if I could. I hope something works out for you.

If I can get off my fat, lazy butt I plan on trying to put my skid plate back on this coming weekend. I'll let you know what I find underneath.

Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 20 November 2012, 03:04 PM
I have a plan that might work for getting the rest of the parts in Washington. If I remove the passenger and rear seat and utilize the roof rack, I should be able to get all of the important stuff for the cost of diesel only (guessing $500--it's a 3,000 mile round trip). I might even be able to get the aluminum hood if I use a moving blanket and strap it to the trunk.

It's still money I don't have, but my auto insurance dropped from $89 to $23 a month, I paid off one of my medical bills, and negotiated lower payments on two other medical bills, so I have enough breathing room for another credit card payment, plus I can sell some of the parts to get a portion of the money back.

It's a bad time of year to be driving, but my route is on the west coast, so there shouldn't be too much snow or ice. I know I'll get drenched in Washington (it's still sunny and warm here in Arizona). I can sleep in the car on the way there if I bring a thick blanket, but on the way back I might have to stay at a couple motels.

I have a job interview with Waste Management next Tuesday, so that's promising. If I do this trip, it will take 6-7 days, so I'll need to do it before I start work.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: JasonP on 20 November 2012, 07:32 PM

Sounds like a plan.

That's awesome! I wish you much luck. Take pictures and make it an adventure for us! I would also be curious on how you prepare your car for the trip.

I lived in Portland for a while. I drove there from Kansas through the Southwest then up the East side of California, then cut across Yosemite, stayed in SF for a few days, then took I-5 the rest of the way. Is there a way you can go through Nevada up to to central Oregon, and then cut across? Thus avoiding our beloved precipitation.

Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Tony66_au on 20 November 2012, 07:51 PM
Road trips are great!

Seen a few in forums created on route that turned into epic adventures along the way.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 20 November 2012, 09:08 PM
Quote from: JasonP on 20 November 2012, 07:32 PMIs there a way you can go through Nevada up to to central Oregon, and then cut across? Thus avoiding our beloved precipitation.

Believe it or not, it's less of a hassle to drive through California. Even though it might be rainy, that's better than the snow and ice I'd be encountering going through Nevada or Utah. As for preparing for the trip, I'll have a spare tire, oil, coolant, jumper cables, a tow strap, and tools. I'll also bring several moving blankets. I will do a valve adjustment and oil and fuel filter change before the trip. I feel confident about my car's reliability except it needs engine mounts and I really want to replace the axle boots before they tear. This is if I can come up with the money and don't start work too soon.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 20 November 2012, 10:39 PM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 20 November 2012, 03:04 PM
I have a plan that might work for getting the rest of the parts in Washington. If I remove the passenger and rear seat and utilize the roof rack, I should be able to get all of the important stuff for the cost of diesel only (guessing $500--it's a 3,000 mile round trip). I might even be able to get the aluminum hood if I use a moving blanket and strap it to the trunk.

Just load the hood on top of a blanket - I've done that before.  The trick is just to A> have a blanket and B, tie from the rear of the car around the front of the stuff on the top, back over it, around the back, and then to the front - that will keep it from moving at all forward or backward.  Then just tie it securely to the handles inside above each door, and close the doors against the rope.  Use extra rope to pull together the other lengths of rope in order to tighten them further - the best rope to use for this is nylon clothesline - I actually prefer cotton myself simply because I like natural things but it can break under stress so make sure if you do use cotton that you have more redundancy.

Definitely agree about taking out the rear seat - it certainly frees up a lot of space.  Removing the passenger front seat is a great idea too that will free up a surprising amount more.

QuoteIt's still money I don't have, but my auto insurance dropped from $89 to $23 a month, I paid off one of my medical bills, and negotiated lower payments on two other medical bills, so I have enough breathing room for another credit card payment, plus I can sell some of the parts to get a portion of the money back.

Let me know what's for sale - I'm interested!

QuoteIt's a bad time of year to be driving, but my route is on the west coast, so there shouldn't be too much snow or ice. I know I'll get drenched in Washington (it's still sunny and warm here in Arizona). I can sleep in the car on the way there if I bring a thick blanket, but on the way back I might have to stay at a couple motels.

Diesel engines don't use a terrible amount of fuel to just leave idling unlike the gas ones, however if you have a down comforter or down sleeping bag that will keep you plenty warm, particularly in conjunction with another blanket on top.

Example of ridiculous load that didn't shift a bit:

(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/40559-1/IMG_0289_001.JPG)

(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/40545-1/IMG_0317_001.JPG)

(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/40550-1/IMG_0318_001.JPG)

I just got done moving a few loads of my own stuff including more desks on the roof along with a friend's queen-size bed in the last few days.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 22 November 2012, 01:00 AM
Those are great pictures. I'll try to take pictures along the way if I can get a credit card or money somehow.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 02 December 2012, 08:31 PM
I got my new credit card, so now I have funds to drive up to Washington to retrieve the parts! Tomorrow I am gutting the interior of my car so that there is maximum room for parts and will bring along a bunch of supplies to pad and tie things down. The next day (Tuesday the 4th) I am going to start driving, hoping to get to Sacramento by the end of that day (12 hours of driving to the halfway point). I'm making one stop along the way to deliver some car parts.

In preparation, I did a much-needed oil change with my usual Amsoil Synthetic 15W40 Heavy Duty Diesel & Marine Motor Oil. I had a leaking oil pan gasket, so I replaced that as well. I used this great funnel that I have that fits right into the oil cap hole.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-9IXm0n9iclI/ULsMlEUYelI/AAAAAAAAEnU/lVe6GA9qBLA/s800/1980300sd363.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-kyaT-_cvp6Q/ULsM1QOH30I/AAAAAAAAEnk/hHrktzBIAEk/s800/1980300sd365.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-OCV9oEAoj2c/ULwCXfzPtWI/AAAAAAAAEoE/W2k8O985eG4/s800/1980300sd368.JPG)

This is how the nice, transparent diesel oil looks right after pouring it in. It takes only a small amount of the old oil on the engine parts to turn the new oil black, but it's nothing to worry about.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-HwMUBPvlbes/ULsM3ta-ZwI/AAAAAAAAEns/q1ECg66R--c/s800/1980300sd366.JPG)

Something that I did worry about was finding a circlip in the oil pickup screen. I'm not sure what it goes to or how it got in.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-aVADWYzxnTQ/ULsM547irrI/AAAAAAAAEn0/AGtA05OVOW8/s800/1980300sd367.JPG)

I also changed both fuel filters--I tried Bosch this time and wasn't impressed. The Bosch main filter seems cheap and didn't come with any sealing washers. The Bosch prefilter is hard to see through and doesn't have any metal reinforcements. I'm going back to Mahle next time. I replaced the fuel injector return hoses with new viton ones since the old ones were starting to tear.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: JasonP on 02 December 2012, 09:34 PM

I miss road trips. Last time I drove up California, I played Beastie Boys and did push-ups at every rest stop. Now I'd be happy with Mozart and Cheeseburgers.


Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 09 December 2012, 08:59 PM
I just got home from driving from Phoenix, Arizona to Tacoma, Washington and back. I gutted the interior of the car on Monday to make room and loaded up some parts that I was going to deliver on the way.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-0chA3_zy2Lg/UMTgMlsvufI/AAAAAAAAEoU/-S__NtwZXqs/s800/1980300sd369.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-OIDOogK6GZ8/UMTgPViMJ_I/AAAAAAAAEoc/YUsfSZ1B328/s800/1980300sd370.JPG)

I left early Tuesday morning on I-10 West and saw some interesting things on the way. An Audi got pulled over for speeding. I was going 75 MPH and a few minutes later the same Audi came zooming up behind and around me. A police car caught up to it and pulled it over a second time!

A while down the road I saw a Hummer doing an illegal U-turn from the eastbound freeway onto the westbound side. At the very next "authorized vehicles only" U-turn spot I saw another vehicle using it. Then at the very next one I saw another vehicle on it; this time it was a bus that got stuck. That bus driver is going to be in big trouble!
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-a_a4N7PvcDg/UMTgUunl7uI/AAAAAAAAEo0/uUNhtKPZcV0/s800/1980300sd373.JPG)

Southern California had a really nice Joshua tree forest.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DwWrWJQS23M/UMTgfcIxtxI/AAAAAAAAEpE/Dk7wbXaKeGs/s800/1980300sd375.JPG)

On the trip my odometer rolled over 312,000 miles, which means I have earned my 500,000km mileage badge.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-xQdoQ4lGEQs/UMTgkWArxcI/AAAAAAAAEpM/blk2btbNKGA/s800/1980300sd376.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 09 December 2012, 10:10 PM
I stayed in Sacramento, California for the night after 12 hours of driving. The car did great on the drive except for the old engine mounts causing the car to rattle and vibrate at idle. I'm going to have to replace them as soon as possible.

The next day I drove another 12 hours and made it to Washington. It was really cold and rainy there, as usual. When I got to the house I noticed that the mortgage company had changed the locks! I was able to get into the house by pushing in the bathroom window (which I put back in place when I left). It was way too cold to sleep in the house, so I slept in my car which was nice and warm (with several moving blankets on me).

Thursday morning I started loading up the parts. I started by putting the spare door panels on the doors, then put the original transmission (which was very heavy) in the trunk. I was able to get five 1960s Mercedes fintail windshields in the car and box after box of heavy parts. All of the weight made the rear end sag.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-N7eJf6VrMKI/UMTgq8U9KgI/AAAAAAAAEps/5hoUvN7GQyA/s800/1980300sd380.JPG)

To help support the rear end, I lifted up the car and installed some aluminum spring helpers into the rear coil springs.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Cty2-qmi9JA/UMTgsgKi3sI/AAAAAAAAEp0/WaILVEbCISU/s800/1980300sd381.JPG)

They are easy to install. You just twist them into the springs and it stiffens them. I used two per rear spring.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tOhPytehAw0/UMTguWwN0HI/AAAAAAAAEp8/kgtWmhOgP5U/s800/1980300sd382.JPG)

As you can see, installing the spring helpers lifted up the rear of the car.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-QQ9tmzOBF7U/UMTgwFE8QRI/AAAAAAAAEqE/QioTLElfWDw/s800/1980300sd383.JPG)

After the transmission went in, I was able to get all four of my steel-look alloy wheels (I have a fifth one at the house in Phoenix), a manual heater box, two 300SD oil coolers and valve covers, and a bunch of other stuff into the trunk.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-JHbpremdtxU/UMTgxnWJ3eI/AAAAAAAAEqM/CVOA9sgOPhQ/s800/1980300sd384.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 09 December 2012, 10:40 PM
I had the interior really full! I had just enough room to sit and look out the passenger mirror.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-hs3eeexwbO8/UMTg4sw5RYI/AAAAAAAAEqs/m_gTb_aXrUM/s800/1980300sd388.JPG)

I strapped my spare aluminum hood to the trunk, along with my roommate's precious trunk pan, lounge chair, and wheelbarrow ;D. I loaded a lot of heavy things in and on the car and was really worried about how it would drive down the road. I was worried that the handling and braking would be detrimentally affected, not to mention I wasn't sure if it would even go down the road fast enough to keep up with traffic and not get stuck on hills.

As I went off down the road I was surprised that the car didn't seem to be at all affected by the extra weight. It zoomed right onto the freeway and cruised at 70-75 MPH the whole way, even uphill! The car handled and braked almost as it did before. Short of hearing the tarp on the roof rack making noise, I couldn't tell I was driving around with a car packed full of heavy parts. After 6 hours of driving I found a cheap motel at which to stay.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-LgHfvrpw7TU/UMTg72q-YUI/AAAAAAAAEq8/VMFi8MfMpME/s800/1980300sd390.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-AmBlDmgOcVk/UMTg9mDDImI/AAAAAAAAErE/-iuFUwnMQ54/s800/1980300sd391.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uzjBvA5fWFM/UMTg_Yoh4GI/AAAAAAAAErM/iyO9jRH94CI/s800/1980300sd392.JPG)

Friday morning I drove 12 hours and on the way stopped at Bombay Bar & Grill in Sacramento, California. I stayed at a motel in southern California, where I made made a poor choice in picking out a fueling station. The diesel pump was busted up and it wouldn't read my credit card. After paying inside and putting $80 on the pump I started pumping and a few minutes later there was diesel shooting out of the tank. I flipped the trigger holder back to release the trigger, but the pump kept pumping diesel and it wouldn't shut off! It flooded the station.

I told the person on duty (who could barely speak English) about what happened and he told me that the pump doesn't stop pumping until the amount that is put on it is used up ($80 in my case). I asked him "really?" then he started saying that I didn't have the nozzle all the way in the tank, etc., and tried to blame me. I have never had this happen at any other station. Every other pump I have used before stops pumping when the trigger is released.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-j9DyLhvv4os/UMThA8MZ20I/AAAAAAAAErU/3D6-KIzDrmo/s800/1980300sd393.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 09 December 2012, 11:12 PM
That Saturday morning I drove another 6 hours through the desert back home. I didn't have any problems with the load other than the roof rack sliding backward, but it's a poor mounting design anyway. I had a few police cars come up behind me (one shined his spotlight on me) but they continued to drive on.

I was sure glad to see the Arizona state sign. I think the saguaro cacti were waving hi to me.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-6c_p4nCIRBw/UMThCGBMeqI/AAAAAAAAErc/Cl6OBBr0Akk/s800/1980300sd394.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/--3GtwWQwQMs/UMThDQUHW_I/AAAAAAAAErk/LKe1UjobCec/s800/1980300sd395.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-EVplA3qN4pM/UMThEwOcPjI/AAAAAAAAErs/SVl_8W6u2zU/s800/1980300sd396.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5adav-ZIRJI/UMThGXRRMPI/AAAAAAAAEr0/-27S_nCLrao/s800/1980300sd397.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-sxg8y5ytF5g/UMThHnG0Y5I/AAAAAAAAEr8/aQ7zklGjTh8/s800/1980300sd398.JPG)

I stopped at The Pita Kitchen on the way home since I hadn't eaten anything but a few Pringles chips that day. I was glad to be home, and it sure was a lot of driving (3,000 miles and 48 hours), but I am glad I got to do it in a car that I enjoy driving. It was much cheaper than renting a truck (it didn't cost much in diesel), and I was able to get the things that I wanted. More pics and a vid to come.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: JasonP on 10 December 2012, 05:35 PM

You did a pretty awesome packing job there. Glad you made it back safely!

That gas station was pretty messed up. I highly doubt his pump is within regulations.

Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 10 December 2012, 09:49 PM
I spent today unloading the car and putting the parts in my shed. I brought the original transmission so that in the future I have a rebuildable and numbers-matching core.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-lTf0QXm14S8/UMacKvaHjOI/AAAAAAAAEsQ/d6DDbKj9q04/s800/1980300sd399.JPG)

I was happy to see that all 5 windshields were intact.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-WDMtyyCL0V8/UMacMsvtIaI/AAAAAAAAEsY/EysBu_gMr4I/s800/1980300sd400.JPG)

I got my precious NOS taillights and a couple sets of Euro headlights.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Dgi2_iCFLnw/UMacOO8dTHI/AAAAAAAAEsg/F6i8JN2aOjU/s800/1980300sd401.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-H_b6XqjokvI/UMacPzt_2_I/AAAAAAAAEso/Rg6NCdtRvJ0/s800/1980300sd402.JPG)

Also, a wheelbarrow of blower motors.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Garxqwq1w4s/UMacRiD0xyI/AAAAAAAAEsw/-672FHMsvCE/s800/1980300sd403.JPG)

I am relieved to have my parts here and that I didn't have to leave them behind. I am also thankful that I have a reliable enough car that I can drive it so far without it breaking down.

I was looking into prices for engine mounts and shocks. The dealer wants $134 each mount for genuine, but aftermarket ones can be had for as little as $8 each! It sure makes me think, but I've heard so many bad reviews about aftermarket mounts that I don't know I want to deal with the frustration. I have a habit of using only genuine Mercedes parts whenever I can afford them.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 10 December 2012, 10:12 PM
I made a video of the car as I was unloading it and have a clip in there from during the drive.
http://www.youtube.com/v/fDpczK1-e4Y?rel=0
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 10 December 2012, 10:21 PM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 10 December 2012, 09:49 PM
I was looking into prices for engine mounts and shocks. The dealer wants $134 each mount for genuine, but aftermarket ones can be had for as little as $8 each! It sure makes me think, but I've heard so many bad reviews about aftermarket mounts that I don't know I want to deal with the frustration. I have a habit of using only genuine Mercedes parts whenever I can afford them.

I bought some unused OEM door seals from a guy locally for the actual price he paid via mail order from Mercedes-Benz of Monterey, CA, which was 22% off list.  I'm not sure how the dealers price things but apparently some are better than others.  My local dealership is not very good.  If you want to give the Monterey one a shot call Ken Brown @ 831-375-2456.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 10 December 2012, 10:36 PM
Quote from: Casey on 10 December 2012, 10:21 PM
I bought some unused OEM door seals from a guy locally for the actual price he paid via mail order from Mercedes-Benz of Monterey, CA, which was 22% off list.  I'm not sure how the dealers price things but apparently some are better than others.  My local dealership is not very good.  If you want to give the Monterey one a shot call Ken Brown @ 831-375-2456.

I actually get a 15% or better discount from The Classic Center, so I could probably get them for $107 each there, though that is still a far cry from $8. Thanks for the info, though. I guess I could just get cheap engine mounts and see how long they last, though it would be nice to do the job once. I already replaced the transmission mount with genuine when I replaced the transmission.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: LosCreepers on 12 December 2012, 03:50 AM
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-sxg8y5ytF5g/UMThHnG0Y5I/AAAAAAAAEr8/aQ7zklGjTh8/s800/1980300sd398.JPG)

That... is awesome.  8)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Tony66_au on 12 December 2012, 05:42 AM
I dont know why I have missed the updates Scotty but im all caught up now.

How the hell the cops didnt pull you over is beyond me lol

Sadly the only Diesels in the time period of the 300SD is the 300D W123 and having driven a few and a turbo one im kinda annoyed we never got them here in the W116 or W126 because they look like a great combination, Re the cops checking you out with the spotlight?

Well im guessing here but I think they were checking for Elly May and Jed or Granny Clampet sitting on the lawn chair............
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: ptashek on 14 December 2012, 05:09 AM
I don't think I'd be able to fit all this stuff in a van, let alone a W116  :o
What kind of mileage did you average over the whole distance?
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 14 December 2012, 09:05 PM
Quote from: ptashek on 14 December 2012, 05:09 AM
I don't think I'd be able to fit all this stuff in a van, let alone a W116  :o
What kind of mileage did you average over the whole distance?

It looks like I did about 30 MPG up there, and about 18 MPG on the way back without getting too technical, which is better than a truck or van would get.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 22 December 2012, 02:39 PM
A Mercedes Sprinter van stopped in front of my house and delivered a set of new genuine engine mounts. They were $109.00 each after my MBCA discount, a far cry from the $4.93 each for aftermarket. However, Mercedes states a different part number for the right side because it needs a different shore hardness, while many aftermarket suppliers state one part number fits both sides.

I'm sure you get what you pay for. Put on cheap aftermarket mounts and you get more vibration and shortened life. I already have a genuine transmission mount on there anyway. I've heard too many horror stories of aftermarket engine mounts collapsing in short time to want to play that game. When I rebuilt my entire brake system with genuine parts, the weak link in the chain was the one set of aftermarket parts (Meyle parking brake shoes) I used that required much grinding and filing to fit.

I have heard that Lemfoerder makes a great set of engine mounts, but unfortunately, they do not offer the right side mount for my car and I'd rather have the correct shore hardness on the right side than use a left side mount on the right.

The passenger side mount was collapsed and causing the engine to tilt to the right and make the body vibrate.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-JHJyzDhx9yE/UNYE2OBRcZI/AAAAAAAAEtM/BAdgiJdMpmY/s800/1980300sd404.JPG)

The engine mounting arm was resting on the metal part of the mount.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-GeBcxsQnFfY/UNYE5AG1KxI/AAAAAAAAEtU/gHq_IVBkZ24/s800/1980300sd405.JPG)

Before raising the engine, I disconnected the throttle linkage.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-CopT-IwiBDE/UNYE7gR1rnI/AAAAAAAAEtc/PZfu7wyUcPI/s800/1980300sd406.JPG)

The factory service manual also states to remove the intake tube, but I already have it disconnected due to not being able to use the intake funnel with Euro headlights.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-iZNYUSQ5Iyw/UNYE9PQ06JI/AAAAAAAAEtk/rFIJZpzQ5-I/s800/1980300sd407.JPG)

To loosen the mounting arms to the mounts, there is a 10mm bolt on each side that needs to be removed from underneath the mount. I discovered that the right side bolt was missing, meaning the right side mounting arm was not even connected to the mount! I discovered the hard way that the W123 and W126 chassis use an 8mm bolt, so I had to use one off of my Universal turbodiesel project.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-nUg9bLl0dMQ/UNYE-nkskJI/AAAAAAAAEts/STc412rFtBE/s800/1980300sd408.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 22 December 2012, 02:52 PM
Before raising the engine, the engine shock absorbers have to be disconnected at the bottom.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ozcQM0PVYkk/UNYFAERHcRI/AAAAAAAAEt0/Yd8pzKQdScg/s800/1980300sd409.JPG)

You have to hold onto the shaft with a 7mm wrench to keep it from turning as you loosen the 10mm nuts.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-2ta59B9NXkc/UNYFBqtQ4_I/AAAAAAAAEt8/-PRnp8Vc0PQ/s800/1980300sd410.JPG)

It's really nice if you have an engine lift. Otherwise, you can use a jack and block of wood and lift at the oil pan. You really have to watch the fan blades to make sure they clear the shroud. Also, you can only raise the engine so high before there is too much tension on the "cigar" fuel hose.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EU-XW8fg2BY/UNYFDdzvuNI/AAAAAAAAEuE/iBXxjyNU6M0/s800/1980300sd411.JPG)

Once the engine is raised up you can pull out the heat shields, and then you can remove the 6mm hex key screws holding the mounts to the body. I could not get the hex key into one of the screws. I tried picking out whatever was caked into the head, but I could not get any bite into it. I decided I would tap the mount with a hammer and get the whole mount to pivot counterclockwise. Doing this loosened up the screw enough that I could start turning it with the hex key. There was some kind of cement stuck in there.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-LD8k6W31NC0/UNYFFIOO-jI/AAAAAAAAEuM/-elc_NSsHU8/s800/1980300sd412.JPG)

Comparing the new mounts to the old ones. The old passenger side mount is totally flattened compared to the new one. One half of it sheared completely so it had no support when there was weight on it.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-zkyByDTs3lk/UNYFGvIbMPI/AAAAAAAAEuU/UuFMkcIdHvk/s800/1980300sd413.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 22 December 2012, 03:14 PM
The genuine mounts appear identical to pictures I have seen of the Lemfoerder ones, with the exception of the Lemfoerders having the star logo ground off. If one could find a right side (123 241 27 13 as opposed to 123 241 30 13 for left) Lemfoerder brand, that would most likely be a cheaper and acceptable alternative since they probably make them for Mercedes (or at least buy them from Phoenix AG and rebox them).
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GxTGtzOTSHg/UNYFIf_vDwI/AAAAAAAAEuc/fktmTzPfejM/s800/1980300sd414.JPG)

The heat shields had been deformed and the right side one had curled into a U-shape, so they required reworking. There were some stress cracks that I filled with JB Weld to keep oil from seeping through onto the mounts.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Odu3dpDpyYE/UNYFKR25nZI/AAAAAAAAEuk/-QU5TpURQh4/s800/1980300sd415.JPG)

The engine now sits level and a bit higher. Now I have the clearance I need to install my skid plate.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-f3f4WqGegiw/UNYFLtOWqRI/AAAAAAAAEus/Iq4boYM6Y-A/s800/1980300sd416.JPG)

Overall, it wasn't a difficult job other than having to deal with getting one of the hex key screws to turn and locating a replacement engine mount bolt. The engine mount to mounting arm bolts got tightened to 70nm and the screws from engine mount to crossmember got tightened to as close as I could estimate to get at 30nm. While I was at it, I replaced one blown engine shock with a spare that I had. The ones I now have still seem to work, so I'll hold off on buying new ones for a while.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rTrz9NFbrV0/UNYFNDYwhtI/AAAAAAAAEu0/bBAtDGUqaGw/s800/1980300sd417.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-DFkrFdwT8hE/UNYFO25IiDI/AAAAAAAAEu8/z7SmD5ChfHM/s800/1980300sd418.JPG)

The engine now idles smoothly and the body vibration and rattle are gone.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 22 December 2012, 03:40 PM
I've been having problems with opening and closing my doors. Usually Mercedes have flawless door operation, but after 314,000 miles of use the parts wear out. The driver front door required several slams before it would shut and occasionally it would pop open while driving. The driver rear door would not open with the outside door handle even after replacing the door mechanism before and adjusting the door handle bite. The passenger front and rear doors were very loud when shutting. I decided enough was enough.

Back when I was living in Washington, there was a time when there were about 5 W116s at the PickNPull. One of the W116s was a 1979 450SEL with under 100,000 miles. I removed all of the door mechanisms and strikers.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-asW9jCVutuA/T6lf_xv9tRI/AAAAAAAAD-w/zRG1YWya1Nk/s800/DSC06569.JPG)

I already had the door panels off when I got home from my trip to get the parts from my old house, so I opened up the box with the door parts and started to replace them. The outside door handles come off with two 5mm hex key screws under a plug, then you slide the handles forward and pull them out. The screws holding the door mechanisms get really stuck, so I take a bit that fits into them perfectly and hammer them in a few times with a sledge to get them to loosen up. Then, I put an 8mm socket over the bit and while pushing down I get them to break free. Usually this is the only way to loosen them without ruining the heads.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-zckUpai-lw0/UNYFQAzRTgI/AAAAAAAAEvE/YbK2jPxkcck/s800/1980300sd419.JPG)

After soaking the door mechanisms in diesel, I hosed them off and let them dry. Once dry, I used an oil can to lubricate the pivoting parts. Automatic transmission fluid works well. I also sprayed some wax on them and then put grease on the sliding parts. Any missing or damaged springs were replaced.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-x5O0XQiU-RI/UNYFSCq-9YI/AAAAAAAAEvM/2yfra8lT8s8/s800/1980300sd420.JPG)

The original part is on the left and the replacement part is on the right. The old parts were corroded and had missing or worn out springs.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-8mJZC5kuSSA/UNYFTxvYVyI/AAAAAAAAEvU/RMEYFeBIVjk/s800/1980300sd421.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EGhpf7uKnV4/UNYFVh9KqLI/AAAAAAAAEvc/aB1TSbmssVU/s800/1980300sd422.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 22 December 2012, 04:06 PM
One key observation is that good door mechanisms have plastic buffers on the contact points where they hit the door strikers. These decrease noise and wear. They were worn off on my old mechanisms. I would get good ones from wrecking yards while they are still out there as it doesn't appear old mechanisms can be rebuilt without expensive equipment and tooling. If I had the money I would buy up the NOS ones on eBay to have as spares.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-kuIws5w31M8/UNYFYhslfNI/AAAAAAAAEvk/PfHRxXnKoZo/s800/1980300sd423.JPG)

The original striker is on the left and the replacement striker is on the right. Notice the deep grooves in the aluminum body from the steel parts digging in since the plastic buffers had worn off. This can cause door rattle. Always reuse the old shims exactly as they came off unless you can see that the cone on the mechanism doesn't line up with the striker hole horizontally.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QLv43Kt3gyc/UNYFauUSBII/AAAAAAAAEvs/X3xwaB9ZNTE/s800/1980300sd424.JPG)

When removing the striker hex key screws, I hammer the 5mm bit into them with a sledge hammer a few times and use downward pressure while turning. However, 3 of them still ended up rounding off in the passenger side rear, forcing me to use drastic measures. Not one of the drill bits I have were any good (they wouldn't even drill through aluminum!) so I ended up having to carefully use a rotary tool and cutting disc to slice up the old striker and screw heads.

When fitting the new strikers in place, try to put them in as near the original position as possible (with original shims), then tighten the screws with just enough pressure that the striker doesn't move. Then, shut the door. While holding the door, pull back on the door handle, then pull the door open. Tighten up the striker then shut the door. The door should be lined up perfectly. If necessary, adjust the striker in or out so the door is flush with the body when shut, or up or down so that the door mechanism doesn't hit the striker in the wrong place. The cone of the mechanism should aim directly into the hole in the striker. I like to lubricate the area where the parts contact each other to minimize noise and wear.

The doors now open and shut quietly and with little force--almost like new. While I was at it, I replaced or rebuilt and lubricated the door check mechanisms in three of the doors since I had already put a new one in the driver side door. It seems all of them either had broken housings or bent wheel pins. I already lubricated the door hinges, so the doors work like new and I am very happy. I installed my new door check seals on them, too--which apparently are now no longer available.

I decided I would reconnect the vacuum to the door locks to see what would happen. My ignition key works with all of the locks except for the doors. One of the keys on the keyring fits the driver side door, but not the passenger side, however the lock didn't make the plunger in the door move due to the shaft on the door handle being broken. I was able to push out the pin in the passenger side door handle with a nail and swap out the shaft onto the driver side door handle (had to reverse the position of the shaft). This made the driver side door lock with the key.

When I locked the driver door, it made the other doors lock as well. I lubricated the trunk latch and fuel door pin, and this made those locks work too. Now I can finally lock my driver door with a key, and it makes the other three doors, trunk, and fuel door lock at the same time. I am so happy to be able to lock my car.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 06 January 2013, 10:14 PM
My 300SD has been running and driving great, for which I am very thankful (on B99 biodiesel since I've been down here--it's cheaper than diesel and the engine runs smoother). I decided it was time to clean it.

The paint is damaged, so I didn't do much more to it other than scrape off a bunch of loose clearcoat, hose it off, and tried to wipe off as much of the water spots as I could before it dried (we have very hard water here). After that, I wiped 303 Aerospace Protectant on the rubber surfaces to protect them from the sun (SPF 40 rating, blocks 100% of ultraviolet rays when used regularly), and it made them look like new. Sadly, the gaskets on the NOS turn signal and taillights are already cracking. I applied Howard's Feed & Wax to the wood slats on the rack.

I also attached the ends of the bumper overriders. The car was in a collision at some point, which bent the front crossmember, the right fender was repaired, and the overrider brackets were tweaked. I've had some difficulty getting the centerlines of the bumper and grille to match. The ends of the overriders wouldn't reach the fender until I attempted to straighten the brackets. At least they bolt up now, even though they are not perfect.

I applied for my 500,000km mileage badge since I just rolled over 315,000 miles. I look forward to installing it next to my 250,000km badge. I've got a Saudi Arabia badge that will be going on too, since that is where I grew up.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8iwImEWpCdc/UOo0rCg4WBI/AAAAAAAAE2o/NREAwsJgMpM/s800/1980300sd428.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-HJM59KfatpQ/UOo0tjdXviI/AAAAAAAAE2w/dmgxk7kV-As/s800/1980300sd429.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-nja2SJGvskc/UOo0wJK7twI/AAAAAAAAE24/wJsBK574d_g/s800/1980300sd430.JPG)

The interior was in dire need of cleaning. The seats were grimey and the carpets were dirty and oil-stained. I found that I had a spare upper front seat skin, so I replaced the one on the driver side that had a large hole in it. I installed the set of brown seat net panels to add to the two-tone effect.

I scrubbed the seats with a stiff-bristled brush and Simple Green. It took out the grease and grime and even removed most of the sunburn. I applied 303 Aerospace Protectant to the seats and other vinyl surfaces. I plan to have the windows tinted to help further protect the interior from the Phoenix sun.

I vacuumed the carpets then sprayed the dark spots with Simple Green and soaked the rest in water. Then I used a stiff-bristled brush to scrub out the stains and sucked up the water with a carpet extractor. When the carpets dried they were clean and the color was darker than before. Removing dust and expended particles of carpet made a big difference.

I applied Howard's Feed & Wax to the wood. The wood on the instrument cluster has already started to warp and crack, as has the dashboard wood. The wood on the center console appeared to be drying out, so hopefully this product will help save it all.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3zWX4EYp7bg/UOo0yBHoQDI/AAAAAAAAE3A/eGb117D_b38/s800/1980300sd431.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-15gNcEilRLo/UOo0zgJcreI/AAAAAAAAE3I/qBY7rkJrAVM/s800/1980300sd432.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 06 January 2013, 10:34 PM
The back seat is wrinkly, but it's a lot better than the too-narrow blue W123 seat that the car came with, the blue velour seat I replaced it with, and the poorly-recovered tan one I installed after. Now I am not embarrassed to have people sit on filthy seats.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-voOGcI0K4Os/UOo03oS_W_I/AAAAAAAAE3Q/EkgwpGkrO-o/s800/1980300sd433.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-TidA4_Z1tk4/UOo07H1Lb9I/AAAAAAAAE3g/ap7gx3IpZic/s800/1980300sd435.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-JjZC9HiSUQc/UOo0-mpxJgI/AAAAAAAAE3o/3OCSJr5vGWQ/s800/1980300sd436.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-uswFFnRUojU/UOo1A9Mc_9I/AAAAAAAAE3w/J3Lsk7xicWk/s800/1980300sd437.JPG)

I put the seat nets to use by placing some reading material in them; a book on the Mercedes W116 S-Class, The Star Magazine, a brochure from The Mercedes-Benz Classic Center, and an owner's manual.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-HpiK8Ptujo0/UOo1CzPfcLI/AAAAAAAAE34/lpDn_zUuIlY/s800/1980300sd438.JPG)

I have a headlight wiper set that I am considering installing. It was a subsequent dealer installation on a USA-spec car, so it has a separate wire harness that still has its own firewall grommets that were never used, which would make wiring it simple. I have a set of new wiper arms for it, and the relay cube and squirters that fit on the overriders with the tubing and clips, but would need to figure out where to drill the holes for the shafts in the under-headlight panels. I would like to keep my battery cooler duct, so I am thinking of possibly cutting the duct so the headlight wiper motor fits in it.

I finally got my Arizona CDL with passenger, tanker, and hazmat endorsements, so I am qualified for a good job. I have an interview tomorrow with a company that rents portable restrooms as a driver. I also have applications in for other companies doing jobs such as delivering oil, CO2 tanks, etc. Hopefully I'll have a good income soon so I can pay off my medical bills and put some more money into my W116.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: jbrasile on 07 January 2013, 06:28 AM
Nice work Squiggle!!!

Good  luck with the job interviews!

Amazing how Tex cleans up well with just a little effort. Here in Brazil I use coconut bar soap with water, a soft brush and get really good results on seats, door panels, anything plastic. I haven't been able to find coconut soap in the US, it's a shame because it works so well for so many cleaning applications. It leaves no residue, rinses very easy and has a neutral "clean" smell.

Take care,

Joe
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 08 January 2013, 12:40 PM
Joe, I may use a more gentle cleaner once I have new skins in place. These ones were pretty stained and aged, so I didn't might being a bit aggressive on the cleaning.

The job interview turned out to be more of a "drive 40 minutes to the office, sit down and spend an hour filling out applications, writing my work history five times", but hopefully I get a call back.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 20 January 2013, 09:01 PM
I had another job interview for delivering CO2 containers. There were three people before me who all have experience with pressurized containers (I don't), but two of the three have poor driving records. The person I talked with liked that I have a perfect driving record and am mechanically inclined. I'll see how it goes.

The next day my battery died. It had sulfated and would no longer hold a charge. I was not surprised since it was seven years old. Fortunately, I had a spare battery from the 200D I parted out. It was remanufactured less than four years ago and I think it's an actual Mercedes battery that's been painted over! When this one goes bad, I want to get a new genuine Mercedes battery.

Since I had the battery out, I decided it was time to clean up the damage caused by battery acid. The original tray was junk and eaten away.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TzV9Ixj7XGw/UPyUAx1j4gI/AAAAAAAAE7s/J_pNWZ74IVo/s800/1980300sd439.JPG)

I had a spare that was in better condition.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Xp8S2qakGAM/UPyUDqaobDI/AAAAAAAAE70/TDJ5hmyc_CI/s800/1980300sd440.JPG)

I brushed Rust Doctor onto the tray--a clear latex paint which turned the iron oxide into magnetite.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IWIkW_6q_b8/UPyUFNti0EI/AAAAAAAAE78/O2Di9Fts7gA/s800/1980300sd441.JPG)

Years of battery acid damage had eaten away at the front end sheet metal. It ate a hole by the headlight access panel, ate through the access panel and clip, and ate through the bottom of the body.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-7xVVnQCP4j8/UPyUKzzqxBI/AAAAAAAAE8M/6E3Jv4B5_Nk/s800/1980300sd443.JPG)

I sanded, then applied Rust Doctor to the rusted parts of the body and fiberglassed over the hole by the headlight cover.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-P5rHdTitSng/UPyUNL-xv5I/AAAAAAAAE8U/eeY6f0s3muo/s800/1980300sd444.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 20 January 2013, 09:32 PM
It's amazing how extensive the damage from the acid was. My car is otherwise nearly rust-free. Apparently all W116s have pre-drilled holes for mounting headlight wiper motors. My car was in a crash at some time. If you look to the right of the crossmember, you can see where it buckled. The right fender appears to have been straightened and has half an inch of body filler on it by the turn signal light. The corner of the hood by the left side of the windshield was buckled, and I have not been able to get the hood to fit properly. It took quite a bit of doing to straighten out the overrider bracket so I could get the overrider to bolt up. I also cannot get the front bumper to line up with the center of the grille.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-GEeaGnQKKyE/UPyUOwpsrVI/AAAAAAAAE8c/J0tun6vQyyI/s800/1980300sd445.JPG)

I pulled off each wire at the terminal block under the battery tray. The connections were dirty, so I cleaned and put dielectric grease on them. I am glad I checked this because the screws holding on the block were loose, with the lower one almost ready to fall out.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-eFyQ5d9vZhc/UPyUITyzDWI/AAAAAAAAE8E/gOb0p6i97AI/s800/1980300sd442.JPG)

I made a gasket to go between the horn that vents the battery tray and the tray itself. I wanted to use rubber from a bicycle inner tube, but couldn't find one, so I made one out of some spare cork, which I covered in silicone adhesive.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-OsLjxKb8qRg/UPyUQvwrQlI/AAAAAAAAE8k/HzQtoqXRXVM/s800/1980300sd446.JPG)

The 300SD has a special battery cooler. Constant exposure to heat shortens a battery's life, and these group 49 batteries are expensive. The casing also doubles to insulate the battery during the winter. It is very interesting how this works. When the vehicle is in motion, fresh air is forced through the louvers under the right headlight, which travels up the horn into the battery tray. The hot air from around the battery is drawn upward and escapes through the vent at the front of the hood.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Oj0V6Ud8g7A/UPyUdCxzNcI/AAAAAAAAE8s/lvGkuzq2FNE/s800/1980300sd447.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vkBo_9trU1M/UPyUeqg4B0I/AAAAAAAAE80/-g9zn36P7Dg/s800/1980300sd448.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: ptashek on 20 January 2013, 09:39 PM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 20 January 2013, 09:01 PMWhen this one goes bad, I want to get a new genuine Mercedes battery.

Honestly, why would you waste money on a battery that is "Mercedes" only because it has an MB logo all over it? :)
They don't make their batteries, just like any other mainstream car manufacturer doesn't.

Any modern maintenance-free battery that matches the requirements of what's listed in the manual will be just as good.
I don't know who makes batteries for MB, but I'm betting Bosch or Varta.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 20 January 2013, 10:06 PM
The battery acid ate through the clip that holds on the headlight access panel. Fortunately, I saved many spare parts from a green 300SD I scrapped. I think I can use the old one as a tool to remove vent window knobs from W110/W111/W115 cars.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-tGwroAb10Oo/UPyUgHWcbeI/AAAAAAAAE88/AqTMfLt4QUg/s800/1980300sd449.JPG)

The battery case is difficult to install, which is why very few still exist. The battery must first be set on the tray. Then, the battery must be slid forward and back to allow the case to drop over it. There is very little room for this. Once the case is dropped down, the battery can be tilted toward the fender so it drops into the lip in the battery tray. Then the case can be snapped down into place and the clamp on the side tightened. That battery sure is strapped in well and is definitely not going to budge!
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-am93o2mIH_k/UPyUhK9feuI/AAAAAAAAE9E/CQQ2yBYXz_M/s800/1980300sd450.JPG)

I found this case in a car at a wrecking yard. It was missing half of the seal that fits on top, but it's the same stuff they use on the firewall of W126 sedans, so I cut some of it to length.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Jewz-SDNqg8/UPyUifwcZeI/AAAAAAAAE9M/_5EMA18-ycs/s800/1980300sd451.JPG)

Like I mentioned, the battery case is a tight fit. There is an indentation in the air cleaner for the positive battery cable to clear.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Lv4V-8RkrQ0/UPyUji6weYI/AAAAAAAAE9U/otSSGIE_DhU/s800/1980300sd452.JPG)

The nuts for the clamp are way down there.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-yTVeMjrDG6w/UPyUk7zAuGI/AAAAAAAAE9c/2ovV0kUC-kg/s800/1980300sd453.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 20 January 2013, 10:20 PM
If you've wondered why 300SDs always seem to be missing the radiator overflow hose holder, it's because it's integrated into the battery cooler.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-keNhaDcHKqU/UPyUmEqpi6I/AAAAAAAAE9k/f1dZMTl2NnM/s800/1980300sd454.JPG)

The air cleaner is mere millimeters away from the case, and this is with brand new engine mounts!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DCUw3b2bdcg/UPyUnSMRhVI/AAAAAAAAE9s/-nCgxwbkS9w/s800/1980300sd455.JPG)

Guess what? You can't access the headlight panel with the case installed. All 300SDs were North American models and came with sealed beam headlights. Sealed beam bulbs are replaced from the front, so the engineers didn't mind the fact that the rear of the right headlight light was no longer accessible. However, when switching to Euro headlights, this becomes a problem (along with blocking the stock 300SD air intake) because replacing bulbs becomes difficult. In fact, it may be easier to remove the headlight to change the bulbs than it is to remove the battery case!
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-PWbLHH0gbfQ/UPy87PlAOMI/AAAAAAAAE-k/2wco3hQSerg/s800/1980300sd456.JPG)

There you have it, Mercedes over-engineering at its finest, though I think it will be worth the extra years I get from my batteries since it is not uncommon to have 115 F summers here in Phoenix (even now, in January, it is 74 F and sunny).
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 20 January 2013, 10:32 PM
Quote from: ptashek on 20 January 2013, 09:39 PM
Honestly, why would you waste money on a battery that is "Mercedes" only because it has an MB logo all over it? :)
They don't make their batteries, just like any other mainstream car manufacturer doesn't.

Any modern maintenance-free battery that matches the requirements of what's listed in the manual will be just as good.
I don't know who makes batteries for MB, but I'm betting Bosch or Varta.

The whole point is to have the Mercedes logo on it. It's a detail thing that makes it less of a beat-up old car and closer to something to be proud of. Varta makes the batteries for Mercedes. The last time I checked, the Mercedes battery was in the same price range as the other brands. Even if it's only a few dollars more, I'd rather pay to have the genuine article. My car is more than just an appliance to me. I don't have plans of ever selling it, though once I have my fintail wagon restored, that will be my new daily driver.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 21 January 2013, 01:17 AM
Some day, I'm just gonna relocate my battery to the trunk.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: ptashek on 21 January 2013, 10:48 AM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 20 January 2013, 10:32 PM
The whole point is to have the Mercedes logo on it. It's a detail thing that makes it less of a beat-up old car and closer to something to be proud of. Varta makes the batteries for Mercedes. The last time I checked, the Mercedes battery was in the same price range as the other brands. Even if it's only a few dollars more, I'd rather pay to have the genuine article. My car is more than just an appliance to me. I don't have plans of ever selling it, though once I have my fintail wagon restored, that will be my new daily driver.

I'm not that attached to my vehicles, and even less attached to brands. My Benz gets the respect it deserves for being a really cool piece of mechanical engineering, but for me there's limits.

Yet, I get the point, and I actually like that there's people who care about those old classics as deeply as you do.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 21 January 2013, 06:59 PM
This morning I decided to try out the "tea kettle" blowby test. The oil cap didn't fly off, so that's good. It actually just sat there on the valve cover. When I removed the cap, I couldn't see any smoke coming out at all.

I did the test with the engine cold. Is this the proper way to do it, or should I have done the test with the engine hot? Also, does the engine sound like it idles fine? No injector nailing or anything? The engine has over 315,000 miles. I use Amsoil Synthetic 15W40 Heavy Duty Diesel & Marine Oil and B99 biodiesel year-round (thankfully, it's cheaper than diesel).

Here is the video: http://www.youtube.com/v/o1uCvuBZlK0?rel=0
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 23 January 2013, 08:46 PM
FYI:

Price of genuine Mercedes group 49 battery: $132USD (Classic Center)
Price of Bosch group 49 battery: $121USD (Pep Boys)
Price of DieHard group 49 battery: $150USD (Sears)
Price of Duralast group 48 battery: $97USD (AutoZone)

The genuine Mercedes battery is not the most expensive one on the market. In fact, it seems nearly the same price as the other brands except for the cheapest of the cheap $97 McParts store value brand. I think the Mercedes battery has a 4 year/50,000 mile warranty on it--better than the 2 year ones the others offer.

So, it's really not a frivolous expense to get the genuine Mercedes battery and have the fancy star on it.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: shadetree77 on 23 January 2013, 10:36 PM
wow, didn't know it was that cheap at the classic center. did you ask how much shipping would be?
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 24 January 2013, 01:59 AM
Quote from: shadetree77 on 23 January 2013, 10:36 PM
wow, didn't know it was that cheap at the classic center. did you ask how much shipping would be?

They might be able to ship it to a local dealership at little cost, possibly free. Any dealership that doesn't price gouge and offers a discount to MBCA members should be able to price match it. I have seen some dealerships online offering these for $118.

I'm hoping this battery lasts me a few years, but when it fails, I want to go with a Mercedes battery (made by Varta AKA Johnson Controls).
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: ptashek on 24 January 2013, 05:21 AM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 23 January 2013, 08:46 PM
FYI:

Price of genuine Mercedes group 49 battery: $132USD (Classic Center)
Price of Bosch group 49 battery: $121USD (Pep Boys)
Price of DieHard group 49 battery: $150USD (Sears)
Price of Duralast group 48 battery: $97 (AutoZone)

The genuine Mercedes battery is not the most expensive one on the market. In fact, it seems nearly the same price as the other brands except for the cheapest of the cheap $97 McParts store value brand. I think the Mercedes battery has a 4 year/50,000 mile warranty on it--better than the 2 year ones the others offer.

So, it's really not a frivolous expense to get the genuine Mercedes battery and have the fancy star on it.

That's actually quite nice of them to price it at market levels. Exception to the rule? :)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 24 January 2013, 01:47 PM
I'll only buy Mercedes batteries going forward as well.  I've had a brand new Autocraft Gold battery (Advance Auto brand, over $150) die after two months - ironically while in for an oil change or something at a dealership.  They said they'd have replaced the battery for free if it was a Mercedes brand and less than 5 years old, which sounds like they may be a little generous with the 4-year warranty.  I've got plenty of improper batteries (only one genuine Mercedes) that I'll run as long as I can, but eventually they'll all be replaced with proper ones.  I've at least eliminated the ones that are clearly much too small for the vehicle and/or struggle to power the starter.  My brown 300SD has an Autocraft Silver from 2011 in it, and if I don't run the car for a couple months, it goes dead as a doornail.  I generally keep all my parked cars plugged in to battery tenders though - I bought a lot of a half dozen of them on eBay for less than the price of a single battery, and it's one of the best investments I've made.  I also have a big battery charger that rolls around on wheels and will put out 200 amps for jump starting, which works great even on diesels (which take more power to start than the gas engines) with completely dead batteries.  I don't remember the cost but believe it was under $100, and it's saved me loads of time and hassle on numerous occasions.  Unfortunately, it's entirely manual (you set desired amperage and then there's a timer) - I wish that I'd have bought the slightly better version that has an automatic battery charging feature, so that I could just set it to charge up a battery, leave for any amount of time, and know that when I come back there will be a fully-charged battery that has not been subjected to overcharging.  Dinking about with a multimeter and checking in periodically isn't very convenient.

On a related note, most standard jumper cables are not capable of starting a diesel engine with a dead battery using the power of another vehicle.  I'm not sure if that's true of the big gas engines as well.  They will only serve to start a car whose battery is not completely dead, but is just a bit too low to get the starter revving fast enough to fire up the engine.  I went all-out and spent I think $60 on a very nice set of jumper cables that's made of 2-gauge wire, is long enough to reach between engine bays when parallel parked in the same direction, and has copper teeth connected to the copper wires for ideal conductivity inside strong clamps that don't pop off the terminals accidentally made of very thick and strong steel.  It's also been one of my best investments.  On numerous occasions I've grabbed a handy set of cheaper jumper cables, wasted a bunch of time and fuel trying to get a dead car started, then given up, gone and fetched the good cables, and started up the dead car in about 2 seconds.  On occasions where I've left my headlights on and drained down my battery, when I've needed a jump start from a stranger it's very nice to have the car fire right up without any delay as soon as I connect the cables and turn the key.  I feel like everyone should really invest in a high-end set of cables like this to keep in their trunk.

I tried starting up a dead 300SD last night using a standard set of cables and after having the cables connected with the other car running for about 20 minutes it still wouldn't even prime the glow plugs (the dash light turns off after a half second or so when there's not enough voltage to warm them) and the aftermarket stereo kept trying to turn itself on and then would shut itself down from loss of power.  I thought my good cables were at my other garage.  Trying to be patient, I left the car running and set about cleaning up the garage more, and I found the good cables.  I literally connected them up and then immediately started the 300SD without any problems whatsoever.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 24 January 2013, 01:54 PM
Squiggle, what you'll want to do is drive the engine until it's at normal operating temperature, then with the engine running loosen the cap and observe what it does.  Hopefully it's not rattling all around.  Then remove the cap and observe how much smoke is coming out of the engine.  The more smoke, the more play/wear there is inside your engine cylinders.

To me, your engine doesn't sound "good" but it sounds pretty typical and not bad at all given the mileage.  A "good" OM61* engine runs smoother, more consistently, and overall much more quiet.  It will really surprise you if you ride in such a car after being used to a more typical one. :)  It seems about the same with the 4.5L V-8's, though of course they have their own unique sound.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: ZCarFan on 24 January 2013, 03:35 PM
The 617 in the Walnut Brown 300SD I used to have would just about blow the cap off.  The funny thing is, the rings must have been serviceable as it would start in 15 deg F weather in about 1 second then settle immediately to a regular idle with all five firing.  That requires decent compression.  It did run rougher than it should though. 

One of these days I need to experience one of the "good ones"
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: JasonP on 24 January 2013, 04:36 PM

The first thing I bought for my car (before I even got home) was a battery. At O'Reilly's, a Super Start P/N #49EXT,  Cold Cranking Amps: 900, Cranking Amps: 1080, Reserve Capacity: 185 Minutes. It cost me $120.00.

I am getting worried about it, though. These cold mornings sometimes I have to crank the starter for 15-20 seconds before it turns over. I don't know if that is draining my battery or not.

Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 24 January 2013, 04:48 PM
Quote from: JasonP on 24 January 2013, 04:36 PM
I am getting worried about it, though. These cold mornings sometimes I have to crank the starter for 15-20 seconds before it turns over. I don't know if that is draining my battery or not.

Sounds like it's time to replace your glow plugs!  Be careful about cheaping out on them because the less expensive ones wear out a lot sooner.  Go with Bosch, Beru, or Monark.  You can very easily test the ones you have as well - just unscrew one from the engine, and connect it to the battery using jumper cables - the negative clamp to the large threaded portion of the plug and the positive to the little screw piece on the end that the wire and nut attach to.  The tip should start glowing red almost immediately.  Most likely yours are taking some time to get red hot or perhaps one or more has failed and is entirely dead.  If they are in fact all working well, the issue may be carbon buildup within the receptacles.

Here's a good set which includes a reamer tool to clean out any buildup before installing the new plugs.  I haven't personally ever really gotten much out with the reamer tool but I know others have - I don't really understand what causes some engines to have more buildup than others.  In any case it's a good tool to have.  The whole kit will cost less than your battery. :)
http://mercedessource.com/node/4767

I've personally always used Bosch plugs exclusively, but I've had great success with Monark injectors.  It's another German company and their injector design is superior to Bosch's.

P.S.  I'd be more worried about wearing out your starter prematurely than the battery.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 09 February 2013, 08:12 PM
I've been enjoying the lovely Arizona winter weather. Since I worry about what the heat might do to my car (and since my air conditioning needs a complete overhaul) I decided to start counteractive measures; I bought an Eclipse sunshade for the front windshield.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-I72aJbalHX4/URbp6RluQOI/AAAAAAAAFI8/6IT4sRuv7Mo/s800/1980300sd457.JPG)

It mounts on the sides of the glass with 3M adhesive and closes in the center with Velcro.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Abe6ocBkflk/URbp9Fz3JtI/AAAAAAAAFJE/5mGSH4z4YfQ/s800/1980300sd458.JPG)

Pulling the tabs apart releases the Velcro and the shade retracts on its own. It doesn't obstruct vision much.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OHLXO3A1G3E/URbp_E6MmSI/AAAAAAAAFJM/1bdpcrpfYVY/s800/1980300sd459.JPG)

It's much more convenient than struggling with the conventional sunshades!
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-6hhr2TpdeYs/URbqAg2kaVI/AAAAAAAAFJU/UI7ELj7jav8/s800/1980300sd460.JPG)

As mentioned in earlier posts, I had a dead battery and decided to check the voltage regulator on the back of the alternator. It's a good thing I did, because I found the brushes were extremely worn and starting to fail. The old one was part number 1 197 311 009. The new part was 1 197 311 028. They are identical (long brush style, same specs) other than the new one does not have a resistor. Voltage regulator specs are here (page 15 and 18--thanks to JasonP for showing me): http://www.regitar.com/FlyerPDF/cs.pdf (http://www.regitar.com/FlyerPDF/cs.pdf)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nw21HC_E0uA/URbqBwDdnMI/AAAAAAAAFJc/x1RBjpUhyvE/s800/1980300sd461.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 09 February 2013, 08:29 PM
I cannot stand oil leaks! My front crank seal leak has been gradually getting worse, now leaving a spot of oil in the garage.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-1RiRYpCSiz8/URbqDaN5xlI/AAAAAAAAFJk/OBa4nShoOuM/s800/1980300sd462.JPG)

Since I have free time and the parts are cheap, I decided to try replacing it myself. First, the alternator bolts are loosened so the belts can be removed (17mm for mounting bolts, 13mm for tension nut).
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4YVtJL5F9xY/URbqE_NIESI/AAAAAAAAFJs/mYub-I6j2Ck/s800/1980300sd463.JPG)

Then remove the 10mm fan bolts and remove the fan and pulley. There is a high risk of rounding them. It is best to use a box wrench with the outer edge ground down so it will slip over them. I did not have one and yes, I rounded them. One was so bad I had to use clamping pliers to remove it.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-o-WhdLytVts/URbqGaHtdJI/AAAAAAAAFJ0/ftQY7gPm5wM/s800/1980300sd464.JPG)

The 8mm bolts on top of the fan shroud come out next.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-UWsajUKyumQ/URbqHoHQO6I/AAAAAAAAFJ8/h9BGVDNoJ7s/s800/1980300sd465.JPG)

Then the fan shroud comes out. Yes, it will come out, but you have to turn it on its side as pictured.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-s6whxnQftTU/URbqJMRcvCI/AAAAAAAAFKE/7lGyqxTZDLc/s800/1980300sd466.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 09 February 2013, 08:41 PM
Now the power steering pump is loosened (all 13mm nuts and bolts) and the belt removed.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZlBmzKXv7-o/URbqKp6mXyI/AAAAAAAAFKM/_pOA4ya75rQ/s800/1980300sd467.JPG)

Despite what others have told me, I did not believe it was necessary to remove the radiator. I would also have had to remove the condenser and oil cooler with it. I found that I was right; there was plenty enough free space and having it out wouldn't have done one bit of good. I didn't even come close to damaging it.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-YyuoqS0cIVM/URbqMKBeufI/AAAAAAAAFKU/1i14uDs9_Qw/s800/1980300sd468.JPG)

As a safety precaution, I flattened out a small cardboard box to act as a shield. I found it isn't necessary if you are reasonably careful.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-puXn1gqPDxo/URbqNQuCUyI/AAAAAAAAFKc/_Bqtzh-weQA/s800/1980300sd469.JPG)

I held onto the crank bolt with a 27mm socket while I loosened the 6mm hex key pulley screws (make sure the heads are clean or the socket won't fit in all the way and it can round them).
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-W_POnltXGCU/URbqO-19kgI/AAAAAAAAFKk/YdMhcjz73v0/s800/1980300sd470.JPG)

This became awkward, so instead I took a socket extension, wrapped it in a paper towel as a cushion, and wedged it between the cutout on the harmonic balancer and the air conditioning compressor to keep the crank from turning backward.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-QQCGJH9bRxU/URbqQhwLi9I/AAAAAAAAFKs/vJXVFgEFLnk/s800/1980300sd471.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 09 February 2013, 09:01 PM
Once the six pulley screws are out, the pulley and balancing disc will come off, so it is important to hold them to prevent them from falling and causing damage to anything or themselves. I don't know if it's necessary, but I marked the original position of the pulleys, balancing disc, and harmonic balancer to each other with punch marks. As you can see, once the pulleys are off, there is plenty of space to work around in.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-JRM5lEQinMA/URbqR1sGd9I/AAAAAAAAFK0/l88FlQ3IKLc/s800/1980300sd472.JPG)

No need for the extra headache to drain fluids and remove the radiator and oil cooler.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-wNNmnJoKTKg/URbqTMm9nsI/AAAAAAAAFK8/fsYBLcxjkBk/s800/1980300sd473.JPG)

The 27mm crank bolt is torqued to at least 270nm (200 ft-lbs), so breaking it free after many years is very difficult. I did it the easy way--make sure nothing is blocking the crank from turning (remember the socket extension that was wedged in to keep it from turning?--remove it). Then I positioned a breaker bar wrapped in cloth against the frame rail and bumped the starter. Make sure the socket is fully seated on the bolt. This breaks the bolt loose with minimal effort. The breaker bar did fall back and rest on top of one of the transmission cooler hoses, but it didn't cause any damage.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-__PA2GkFUhk/URbqUUwKfII/AAAAAAAAFLE/kWIdVy_SjaI/s800/1980300sd474.JPG)

Here is what the harmonic balancer looks like with the fixing pins. Make sure to mark the position of the balancer on the crank with punch marks on each. If it is installed 180 degrees off, the engine will be out of balance. If the old balancer is damaged, the replacement must be match balanced to the old one.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jXikhYd1YW8/URbqVk1e_sI/AAAAAAAAFLM/xAAUbq3VWzA/s800/1980300sd475.JPG)

I didn't have a harmonic balancer puller, so I rented one for free from my local auto parts store. I used a generic one and it worked great. There was plenty of room to use it. The balancer came off slowly but smoothly. Make sure it doesn't fall to the ground.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-_HbLbnn9Kyo/URbqXFGC64I/AAAAAAAAFLU/uXVF66EzG8Q/s800/1980300sd476.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 09 February 2013, 09:02 PM
Excuse the blurry photo; I forgot I had my camera under the car when I hosed off the engine! The crank seal is now visible.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-OyB90wDJE5c/URbqYfVl46I/AAAAAAAAFLc/Oo3Cs4Uenb0/s800/1980300sd477.JPG)

A seal puller is supposed to work well, but I used a screwdriver to pry out the seal--just make sure to not score any machined surfaces.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MbbV7g5sMWo/URbqZiRi5zI/AAAAAAAAFLk/QUAj2-9c3qg/s800/1980300sd478.JPG)

There is a spacer ring that rides between the crank and seal. It is a replaceable wear item and should be replaced every time the seal is replaced. I have heard that these should come off with your fingers. This did not work. I also tried prying from each side simultaneously with a screwdriver. This also didn't work. I had to resort to drastic measures and remove the upper seal cover. I split the seal ring apart from the sprocket by hammering a screwdriver between them, then rotating the crank and prying around circumference with larger and larger screwdrivers until it came off. It was a struggle the entire way.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8xjdpYhwJxY/URbqbPnla7I/AAAAAAAAFLs/31ITKXKWHWc/s800/1980300sd479.JPG)

My spacer ring had a deep groove cut into it from the crank seal. It wouldn't have sealed well even with a brand new seal in place; too much material was missing.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-7ii67IjZgDY/URbqckIxShI/AAAAAAAAFL0/6uG3dR7oHo8/s800/1980300sd480.JPG)

I protected the inside of the engine from debris by placing a plastic bag in the opening as I cleaned the mounting surface. Changing the oil is not necessary if you are very careful, but planning this right before a scheduled oil change is a good idea.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cbf2YyHtE2k/URbqfqcK5FI/AAAAAAAAFL8/nL2E0PHVLmc/s800/1980300sd481.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 09 February 2013, 10:06 PM
As I was looking at the aluminum seal top cover, I noticed that one of the threaded holes was stripped out and the threads were stuck on one of the upper oil pan screws, both of which were too short! I went to the wrecking yard and removed one from a 1983 W126 300SD, having to remove the pulleys and harmonic balancer on it in order to access the part--there is just as much room to remove the parts on a W126 without removing the radiator.

When I got the part home, I noticed that it was a different part number (617 014 05 33) than the one from my car (617 014 03 33)! Apparently, this part supersedes the old one.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-yXYd9yIDz4c/URbqhg5hqSI/AAAAAAAAFME/PTnS33jyOXM/s800/1980300sd482.JPG)

One of the differences can be seen on the backside.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--8pE4ySZOaM/URbqjBCUtMI/AAAAAAAAFMM/Pbnidhguw1U/s800/1980300sd483.JPG)

I made sure to get the proper length screws for mounting it to the upper oil pan (size difference of one from my car vs. proper length on lower left). I am glad that I also got the block mounting screws as they were longer in length, due to the replacement part being thicker than mine!
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-7I0eHd4vb7I/URbqksq8WWI/AAAAAAAAFMU/aRM2RCvHKRk/s800/1980300sd484.JPG)

I cleaned the mounting surfaces of the block and cover by carefully scraping away the old sealant and then using 800 grit sandpaper with brake cleaner as a lubricant. Then I did a light parallel directional scuffing with 220 grit sandpaper to give a bit of a bite and help keep oil from seeping across a too-smooth surface. I was extra careful to chip away old sealant from around the pin on the block and cleaned the mounting surfaces with brake cleaner applied with a rag.

With the surfaces clean, I applied Reinzosil Anthracite 300+C Silicone Sealing Compound (003 989 98 20 10) to the block and exposed portion of the upper oil pan. I quickly placed the cover onto the block and installed the two lower screws slightly snug, put some sealant on the bolts on the smooth portion near the heads, then inserted them into the block. The centering tool is nice, but not necessary. I just made sure to feel that the top cover was centered perfectly over the upper oil pan as I was torquing the bolts to 10nm (lower ones get torqued first as they have to fight the upper bolts).

I found a 1 1/4" PVC union from the plumbing section of a hardware store makes a great installation tool for the crank seal and spacer ring.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZUCjRrUDAyU/URbqm2ChTjI/AAAAAAAAFMc/VrVsrThdJR4/s800/1980300sd485.JPG)

I added a small amount of Reinzosil just around the forwardmost lip of the new crank seal where it wouldn't fall into the crankcase and pressed the seal in a ways by hand. Then I used part of the PVC union and tapped the seal in some more. For further seating I used the crank bolt with a washer and another part of the union inside, and tightened it just enough until it was fully seated, but not too far.

If you left the spacer ring on the crank, you'll have to make a sleeve out of a plastic drink cup, lubricate it, slide it over the spacer ring, then insert the seal and slide the sleeve out. Otherwise the seal will flip inside out when it is pushed against the spacer ring.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NVL4auB_Pns/URbqp0hxLkI/AAAAAAAAFMk/RFcJgJBmh8A/s800/1980300sd486.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 09 February 2013, 10:38 PM
I made sure the seal was fully seated and square with the crank.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-b4EafOI3FgY/URbqrSEq65I/AAAAAAAAFMs/M8hLuBmOGkw/s800/1980300sd487.JPG)

After the seal was on, I lightly greased the crank and tapped on a new spacer ring using part of the PVC union. I put a good amount of grease on the outside diameter of the spacer to help it slide into the seal without tearing it. This type of hammer without the claw at the other end is the way to go; you get more swinging room and if you need to pull nails, that's what a crowbar is for. I stopped tapping on the spacer when the PVC tool touched the seal as I didn't want to damage the seal lip. From there I tapped it in the rest of the way with a flatblade screwdriver.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-a3ZCJF8FTgc/URbqs99gT0I/AAAAAAAAFM0/7Zf1EGKWYD8/s800/1980300sd488.JPG)

The harmonic balancer gets placed back on the crank (I used a very faint amount of grease, but any large amount and it could possibly cause the balancer to rotate on the crank during operation). Position it with the punch marks matching and the bores for the pins as closely aligned as possible. The crank bolt can be used to press it into place. Remove one or two of the cupped washers if necessary to get enough threads to start the bolt. It is a good idea for the bolt to be as clean as possible and with a light amount of grease on the threads. Use a socket extension wedged between the balancer and the upper oil pan to keep the crank from turning. I have read of people heating the balancers in the oven at 250 degrees Fahrenheit to get them to slide onto the crank, but this seems overkill.

Tighten the balancer onto the crank until the bores for the pins are a good ways into each other. Chances are they will not be perfectly aligned with each other, so using an extension or block of wood, tap on one of the cutouts in the balancer (without the extension wedged and the crank free to turn) to get it to rotate on the crank so that the pin bores line up. It may take sharp blows to move it a good distance. When the bores look perfectly aligned, go back to pressing on the balancer some more and recheck. You want the bores to be perfectly aligned when the balancer is tightened fully on the crank. The slightest misalignment will cause the pins to not go into place without shaving off too much metal.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-qBUJvW5fjCQ/URbquQd20_I/AAAAAAAAFM8/iKXPNjJho5A/s800/1980300sd489.JPG)

Once you are absolutely sure that the bores are perfectly lined up on both sides, carefully tap NEW pins into the bores. Take your time and make sure they go in straight. These are an interference fit and there will probably be small metal shavings that come out. Once they are fully tapped into place, they will set about 1mm above the balancer face.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-HNwNCSlXasg/URbqvnxJsiI/AAAAAAAAFNE/8bhi-HZ95QE/s800/1980300sd490.JPG)

Using a rotary tool, carefully grind the excess material off of the pins until they are flush with the balancer face. Be careful as you could realistically grind too much material off of the balancer very fast. Alternatively, you could shorten the pins before driving them in, but you would have to be careful to not mushroom the heads by hitting on them too hard.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aXZLzbDMDMo/URbqxML4DCI/AAAAAAAAFNM/ADxbl46OLGI/s800/1980300sd491.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 09 February 2013, 11:04 PM
A new crank bolt (grade 10.9 pictured) and cupped washers should be used because of the high amount of torque to which these are tightened, and the potential for breakage due to vibration. These are to be installed with the threads lightly greased and tightened up to 270nm or 200 ft-lbs. I do not have a torque wrench that goes this high, so I rented one for free from my local auto parts store. You'll need to use an extension wedged in the balancer to tighten it up this much. I placed a rag around the extension so it wouldn't dent the upper oil pan. 270nm is a lot of force (sometimes it looks like you are lifting the engine out of the car). It's best to pull the wrench toward you as you tighten, making sure to not let the socket on the crank bolt slip.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mGuQdg7lwdc/URbqyXmDt-I/AAAAAAAAFNU/VXqNL6OrKvY/s800/1980300sd492.JPG)

I used 80 grit sandpaper on the belt surface of all of the pulleys while they were off, making perpendicular lines to discourage belt slippage.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-_jmGF6gUM78/URbq1I_OikI/AAAAAAAAFNc/zt-V4gcF-Bc/s800/1980300sd493.JPG)

Crank pulley screws should be used only once. I ordered new ones. The originals were grade 8.8. The replacements are grade 10.9. Supposedly the early engines used grade 10.9 and a bulletin was put out to replace them with 8.8 because they had a tendency to shear off. Now I see Mercedes went back to grade 10.9. I would not recommend using grade 12.9 found at the hardware stores because even though it is a higher tensile strength, it is more brittle than a grade 10.9 or 8.8. I would recommend using grade 8.8 if available. I ordered new spring washers, but since January 1979 they were no longer installed on OM617 engines. I used blue thread lock compound on them and tightened them to 30nm (25nm is spec for grade 8.8, I went a touch higher due to higher grade screws plus 25nm didn't seem tight at all).
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-yT4xD9N7tpg/URbq8G92jEI/AAAAAAAAFNk/HTcNvzMr0UQ/s800/1980300sd494.JPG)

I had a nice-looking spare fan clutch, so installed it.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-f2bn-RFduBg/URbq_kDD1OI/AAAAAAAAFNs/C9GEkRzHHNA/s800/1980300sd495.JPG)

I put the radiator shroud, fan, and belts back into place. After things were tightened up, I started the car and let it run for a while. So far, no leaks! It seems my repair was a success. It's one that I had been dreading and I think it went rather well. It only cost me about $50 and several hours of time. I'm sure this would be an expensive job to have a shop do. Let's hope my rear crank seal and upper oil pan hold up for a while!
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-XiyYC_hLWD0/URbrCTIuZcI/AAAAAAAAFN0/PaUhDpV5Y0Q/s800/1980300sd496.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: oversize on 10 February 2013, 06:17 AM
What a great job with lots of attention to detail!  I must say I've never had to grind down the dowels, but seeing you used a new spacer, the clearance might be different.  It must be very rewarding not to have oil leaking under the car and a clean garage floor.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 10 February 2013, 11:46 AM
Quote from: oversize on 10 February 2013, 06:17 AM
What a great job with lots of attention to detail!  I must say I've never had to grind down the dowels, but seeing you used a new spacer, the clearance might be different.  It must be very rewarding not to have oil leaking under the car and a clean garage floor.

Thanks! The new dowel pins provided by Mercedes-Benz are 2mm longer than the originals, so it is now necessary to grind them flush.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 10 February 2013, 11:53 AM
Excellent job and write-up! $50 is great - I'm tempted to do this service to the three Diesel engines sitting on my shop floor just because. It's probably a good preventative maintenance even if they aren't leaking (I don't know and would be good experience. Probably easier with the engine out too.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 10 February 2013, 11:57 AM
Quote from: Casey on 10 February 2013, 11:53 AM
Excellent job and write-up! $50 is great - I'm tempted to do this service to the three Diesel engines sitting on my shop floor just because. It's probably a good preventative maintenance even if they aren't leaking (I don't know and would be good experience. Probably easier with the engine out too.

Thanks! It would definitely be easier to do with the engine out of the car. I'd even replace the rear crank seal and reseal the upper oil pan while I was at it. I'm going to hope mine hold up for many years since the engine has to be out to replace those.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 10 February 2013, 12:01 PM
Is that a Dremel you have there? I think my next tool investment is going to be into a set of battery-operated tools including a reciprocating saw and drill to make certain junk yard endeavors easier and will be handy around the house and garage. Do you see any advantage in the rotary tool over a regular drill? What do you think about pneumatic tools versus electric?

The battery-operated set would also include a circular saw and impact driver. I have no idea when an impact driver is actually useful or necessary for anything though as I've never used one. I mostly prefer to use hand tools when possible.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: s class on 10 February 2013, 01:18 PM
Very well done.  Its exactly the same process on the M110 BTW.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 11 February 2013, 12:42 AM
Quote from: Casey on 10 February 2013, 12:01 PM
Is that a Dremel you have there? I think my next tool investment is going to be into a set of battery-operated tools including a reciprocating saw and drill to make certain junk yard endeavors easier and will be handy around the house and garage. Do you see any advantage in the rotary tool over a regular drill? What do you think about pneumatic tools versus electric?

The battery-operated set would also include a circular saw and impact driver. I have no idea when an impact driver is actually useful or necessary for anything though as I've never used one. I mostly prefer to use hand tools when possible.

It's a corded Dremel tool set. The advantage of it over a drill is that it's smaller and easier to maneuver. I don't have much experience with pneumatic tools. An impact wrench might do a better job at breaking screws free without damaging the heads than you could do by hand. I use hand tools most of the time, but I'm poor and don't have a lot of fancy stuff.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: alabbasi on 11 February 2013, 01:54 AM
Love this picture:

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MDdz9zguhSk/Tg6I66JNBSI/AAAAAAAACWM/Ncjiljvbq5s/s800/utah201129.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Tony66_au on 11 February 2013, 03:55 AM
Might be worth investing in a set of needle picks, like a small screw driver but with a pointy end bent at various angles and very handy for removing old seals by hooking into the rubber each side and gently pulling.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 11 February 2013, 06:43 PM
Quote from: Tony66_au on 11 February 2013, 03:55 AM
Might be worth investing in a set of needle picks, like a small screw driver but with a pointy end bent at various angles and very handy for removing old seals by hooking into the rubber each side and gently pulling.

My roommate has some of them, but this seal was really thick and I was afraid I would break them. They do come in handy, though.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 18 February 2013, 02:06 AM
In an effort to preserve the interior of my car from the effects of the sun, and to keep the interior temperature down (since I do not have working air conditioning and it can reach 80F in the winter to 115F in the summer), I decided to apply window tint. I'm not a big fan of tinted windows, but in Phoenix, Arizona it's practically a necessity.

As a compromise in being frugal and wanting good quality, I found an online supplier of 3M (invented window tint film in 1966) Color Stable Automotive Window Film. I did a lot of research on installing window tint and ordered a kit with installation tools. The short story is... I understand how to tint windows (cleaning glass, heat shrinking and cutting film, application, shaving, etc.), but despite my efforts, I kept getting dust particles trapped behind the film.

I had all of the glass out of the car for application, except the windshields. I learned that more dust gets trapped under the film if the glass in horizontal. In the vertical position (I had the class clamped in a wide, portable vise), it looked better, but still wasn't acceptable.

I put the glass back into the car and washed the felt window channels. I called Autobahn Tint and they said they would install the tint I had purchased for $100 labor. They charge $349 to install 3M Color Stable tint, so I did save a little money, though I was hoping I could do it myself and spend less. It took about 4 hours for them to install the tint. It turned out better than my efforts.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PFS6Pcittwo/USGgwrEnTuI/AAAAAAAAFa4/Q6e_OM1PLyw/s800/1980300sd497.JPG)

I went with 35% tint on the front doors because I couldn't go much darker and be legal. The rear doors and windshield are 20%. Even though Arizona has no tint limit on the rear door and windshield glass, I didn't want to black it out completely because I want to see where I am going when I am backing out the car at night.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-n_0qjl03Q8M/USGgzaIRiXI/AAAAAAAAFbA/WbuaVbMR9D0/s800/1980300sd498.JPG)

I told the installer to tint over the Blaupunkt decals. I was able to remove my attempt at tinting with a heat gun and a little brake cleaner after the surface cooled.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-rVSUEaJlmOA/USGg1BLGWQI/AAAAAAAAFbI/dqjt3Pq9IGQ/s800/1980300sd499.JPG)

The felt-covered rubber window brushes on the outside at the bottom of the door glass were rotted away. The ones on the inside of the glass tend to last forever. I had a spare set of inside pieces, so I swapped out the clips and installed the spare pieces on the outside. Now the brushes on both sides are like new. I washed both sides to make sure there was no dirt that would scratch the tint. Having replaced all the clips, the trim on the outside is now secured and doesn't go SPROING every time I shut the doors.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-0xPBEdQGrKk/USGg3G_CpII/AAAAAAAAFbQ/iUsrlnUepHs/s800/1980300sd500.JPG)

The installer shaved the tint so it goes right up to the edge of the glass. I don't like it when there is a gap.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-nhFokOrAGVY/USGg7auPQFI/AAAAAAAAFbY/0k9z_ACxBOU/s800/1980300sd501.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 18 February 2013, 02:15 AM
Autobahn Tint says they use a computer to cut the film. I'm amazed they had the specs of my car in there. It's pretty accurate, and I don't understand why the installer hacked away large pieces of the rear windshield seal. I'm upset about it.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-8rFfHa7GxI4/USGg-FHYJpI/AAAAAAAAFbg/54sQZSVceSo/s800/1980300sd502.JPG)

My door handle gaskets were shrunken and brittle. I replaced them since they were less than $3 each.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-X8sHwPkVE3g/USGhEgKl1OI/AAAAAAAAFbo/SCpPKjqRBDM/s800/1980300sd503.JPG)

The next project is to replace the alternator. Despite replacing the voltage regulator, it is putting out no charge. The battery seems to hold enough charge that I can charge it in the evening and then drive the next day.

I also received a letter in the mail stating that my unemployment has ended and I will no longer be receiving checks.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Tony66_au on 18 February 2013, 11:39 AM
Very nice finish on the Tint!

Sometimes they disturb or punch the edges of window seals in on themselves using the long handle squeegee's they have to use on rear windows so its worth checking the seals ate not just squashed in instead of cut.

But the overall finish looks good!
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Tony66_au on 18 February 2013, 11:43 AM
Apart from the shitty clear coat the car looks pretty damned good really, I was chatting to a mate who does high end car restoration work and he reckons he has a way to make peeling clear look less shitty too BTW and he says from memory its a cheap fix.

Have to pick his brains about it but when i find out I will post the method.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 18 February 2013, 12:01 PM
The rear windshield seal is cut. I found large chunks of it all over the parcel shelf and back seat. I am happy with the tint job, though. The 3M watermarks were left on the tint (I later removed them with alcohol), so I could tell they used the real thing and didn't substitute the tint I provided with a cheaper brand.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: s class on 18 February 2013, 12:51 PM
Very neat.  Years ago I tinted the glass on my Mk3 Ford Escort myself.  I did it with the glass out too - its really the only way to do it neatly.  I didnt have any dust problems - I used the Klingshield brand, which is floated on with soapy water.  I did the tinting in the shower with the water running steadily.  Got a nice result. 
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: oversize on 18 February 2013, 06:15 PM
Quote from: s class on 18 February 2013, 12:51 PM
Very neat.  Years ago I tinted the glass on my Mk3 Ford Escort myself.  I did it with the glass out too - its really the only way to do it neatly.  I didnt have any dust problems - I used the Klingshield brand, which is floated on with soapy water.  I did the tinting in the shower with the water running steadily.  Got a nice result.

Great idea, but I hope you weren't tinting naked!!  LOL!  Personally I wouldn't drive a car without some level of tint.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 18 February 2013, 10:00 PM
Quote from: s class on 18 February 2013, 12:51 PM
Very neat.  Years ago I tinted the glass on my Mk3 Ford Escort myself.  I did it with the glass out too - its really the only way to do it neatly.  I didnt have any dust problems - I used the Klingshield brand, which is floated on with soapy water.  I did the tinting in the shower with the water running steadily.  Got a nice result.

Haha! I used a 1/4tsp of Johnson's Baby Shampoo in a spray bottle with distilled water and floated it on as well. I never thought of doing it in the shower. The glass was attracting all kinds of hair and dust particles, like it had a static charge, even after cleaning the glass very well, spraying it well with the solution, spraying the backside of the tint, etc.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 23 February 2013, 05:58 PM
After replacing my old battery with a slightly newer reconditioned Mercedes-Benz battery, I was still having weak starts. I tested the battery with the engine running, and it was reading 11 volts and dropping. The alternator was completely dead, despite replacing the voltage regulator.

Since funds are currently very limited, I went around to the wrecking yards looking for alternators. The only vehicles with nice alternators had different wire connections than mine, except for old, nasty 55 amp ones like I had. I saw a couple nearly new Bosch Premium remanufactured 80 amp ones on two W126s, but unfortunately they were the kind that don't fit my car.

After going home and thinking about it, I decided I would make one of the AL69X 80 amp alternators fit. If I was successful, it would allow me to upgrade to a 115 amp AL129X in the future, if needed.

When I went back to the yard, I pulled both 80 amp alternators, which looked equally nice, and compared the two to see which was in the best condition. I was able to loosen the pulley nut one one, but the nut on the other one was so tight that the 8mm hex key socket spun inside the shaft, so that helped me decide which to purchase.

I also found a 9-blade fan and small fan pulley in a 1983 W126 300SD. The plastic 9-blade fan is lighter than the 6-blade magnesium one, and is supposed to take less force to spin, therefore will slightly increase fuel mileage. The extra blades increase air flow, and the smaller pulley spins faster, therefore causing the fan and water pump to turn faster.

The first thing to do is disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent sparks, component damage, and electrocution.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-rYBZJZFQxGs/USlB0QVpmfI/AAAAAAAAFdg/TF0pheTZAEw/s800/1980300sd505.JPG)

Then the two 17mm bolts and nut are loosened at the rear of the alternator.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-xcWp5_p2oRU/USlB2c3mc8I/AAAAAAAAFdo/Inq0Jij56AU/s800/1980300sd506.JPG)

Then loosen the belts by turning the 13mm tension nut counterclockwise.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-QXfEgsVn0iQ/USlB3hAmRhI/AAAAAAAAFdw/xD9nrCIE8nQ/s800/1980300sd507.JPG)

I got tired of rounding out fan bolts, so I ground the end of my 10mm wrench so that the box end will fit over them.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-2IMZa2R2N8g/USlB5i75c8I/AAAAAAAAFd4/iJAtERYcdfI/s800/1980300sd508.JPG)

Next, the fan and pulley are removed.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-HuTP3GkkUJQ/USlB7SVOsVI/AAAAAAAAFeA/xgRQCNI7EWU/s800/1980300sd509.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 23 February 2013, 06:08 PM
Here is my old alternator with the shiny new voltage regulator that did no good.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-4hXynmjGe8c/USlB82qLRoI/AAAAAAAAFeI/f6I5w40ognc/s800/1980300sd510.JPG)

The old alternator dropped out the bottom with the adjuster bracket still attached.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-JsDDmjEZAWI/USlB-h0K2TI/AAAAAAAAFeQ/xELd96U_PBk/s800/1980300sd511.JPG)

The bracket and bolt were bent from people in the past not having all the nuts and bolts loose before adjusting the belt tension.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pcvUqYsoV8Y/USlCAZXA-JI/AAAAAAAAFeY/cYotnhTRsHQ/s800/1980300sd512.JPG)

The 80 amp alternator is on the left, and the old 55 amp alternator is on the right. The body and hole spacing of the 80 amp alternator is slightly bigger than the 55 amp version. The electrical connections and voltage regulator are also in different positions between the types.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-acYK1a_JWTc/USlCCAn_xXI/AAAAAAAAFeg/4fqz_znmvlM/s800/1980300sd513.JPG)

They are close to the same depth, but the 80 amp one is a little deeper.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-lgRh5wAE3CE/USlCDfheiOI/AAAAAAAAFeo/mdWBRdCM5sM/s800/1980300sd514.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 23 February 2013, 06:20 PM
I removed the 80 amp alternator from a W126 V8 car, so it has only a single belt pulley. Mine uses a double belt pulley, so I had to swap them out. It's not the best way, but I was able to remove the nut on the 55 amp alternator by wedging screwdrivers between the fan and body.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-RfDlQCWkT1I/USlCE3zwtNI/AAAAAAAAFew/leqRx-5DcZw/s800/1980300sd515.JPG)

The nut on the 80 amp alternator was easier because the shaft has a spot to insert an 8mm hex key socket. I didn't have a socket or wrench large enough to fit on this larger nut (larger than 23mm, smaller than 27mm), so I was forced to use an adjustable wrench. The 80 amp alternator lacks the Woodruff key and relies on tightening force of the pulley nut.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jpP8ivHZAHE/USlCGbYAjBI/AAAAAAAAFe4/lQ2BdaAU3wE/s800/1980300sd516.JPG)

I was able to fix the positioning of the electrical connections and voltage regulator by removing the four screws that hold the two case halves together, loosening the ones at the front bearing behind the pulley area, then rotating the case halves 180 degrees. You have to press down hard on the screws and be extra careful so they don't round out when you turn the screwdriver/socket when loosening.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-o-OIGPUw2LE/USlCOscKN3I/AAAAAAAAFfA/Mi0divtE_iE/s800/1980300sd517.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-PTsEz_Pd2aE/USlCQNKXF7I/AAAAAAAAFfI/04CNuKtN80Q/s800/1980300sd518.JPG)

I decided to do a test fit of the 80 amp alternator, 9-blade fan, and pulley. The 10X1035 belts I was using were very loose even with the tension screw fully tightened (due to using a smaller fan pulley). I loosened the power steering pump and removed the belt in order to test a smaller, 10X1000 fan belt I removed from a 1983 300SD, from which the 9-blade fan and small pulley came.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-w6RA6PFUA9c/USlCRtUitnI/AAAAAAAAFfQ/DflFe-uDaZQ/s800/1980300sd519.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 23 February 2013, 06:45 PM
I tried the 10X1000 belt, but the tension screw wouldn't loosen fully. Because the 80 amp alternator is larger, the adjuster bracket was at a steeper angle and was hitting the screw side of the hose clamp on the water pump housing above it. By the way, Kobalt Tools (found exclusively in Lowe's home improvement stores) has a handy double drive ratchet that allows you to twist the handle in either direction to spin the socket below, and works great for this job.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-HIyBktGDZGY/USlCUKfmQJI/AAAAAAAAFfY/Me5MTj4wBTc/s800/1980300sd520.JPG)

I rotated the screw side of the hose clamp away from the bracket, and this gained additional clearance, but the adjuster bracket was soon hitting the hose.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-yQ-neThZiQU/USlCWDDWyUI/AAAAAAAAFfg/4zdiG4wrB_0/s800/1980300sd521.JPG)

I ended up having to take a rotary tool with a cutoff wheel and grind away almost all the way up to where the indentation in the bracket starts. This worked and the adjuster bracket cleared the hose above it. There was now just enough room that I was able to stretch the 10X1000 belt onto the pulleys.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-6MACPL3Mwxc/USlCovaOyvI/AAAAAAAAFg4/wmesil5fntM/s800/1980300sd532.JPG)

Since the 80 amp alternator has different electrical connections, I had to rewire my car. The 80 amp alternators need thicker wiring than the 55 amp ones and might fry the stock wiring. The square alternator plug has two red wires which go to the junction block under the battery. There is a third, small blue wire that runs up to the charging light in the instrument panel. A red/black wire from the temperature sensor on the top of the water pump housing enters the same harness. It's a good idea to unplug the connector at the sensor before working on this because when the alternator is lowered, it tends to catch on the wire.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-S8VEsj2b3s4/USlCYG26t3I/AAAAAAAAFfo/SG-HAc_wLAw/s800/1980300sd522.JPG)

The two red wires coming from the rectangular alternator plug go directly to the junction block under the battery, BUT a little bit of them is tucked into the sheathing of a nearby wire harness. They will come out if you carefully and patiently pull on them. I will say that this is really difficult to do from under the car... it would be easier to access these wires with the battery and tray out, but I didn't want to remove them.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-rcbLgqwkhas/USlCZraq9EI/AAAAAAAAFfw/S_-l0onda-Q/s800/1980300sd523.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 23 February 2013, 07:20 PM
I removed the alternator wire harness from the W126. There are two different lengths, depending on the year. I think the first generation W126s have the shorter version (which is needed in this application). It's part number 126 540 04 08 for those interested (apparently a $50 dealer part).
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-UH4c1WGj8rk/USlCbdpJUpI/AAAAAAAAFf4/f2jHN4wqbyk/s800/1980300sd524.JPG)

Since on the W116 the blue charging light wire does not connect to the junction block, but goes directly to the instrument panel light, the end of the blue wire on the harness needs to be attached to it with a connector. Make sure you do only the side that does not attach to the alternator since the red wire has a larger connector on the alternator side.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-bibIBtE_QnQ/USlCcuuevaI/AAAAAAAAFgA/U4Oc5BqaQ74/s800/1980300sd525.JPG)

I took a razor and carefully cut away the sheathing on the alternator harness, being careful to not cut into any of the wires (especially the red/black one for the temperature sensor). If you cut most of the way, but not completely through the sheathing, most of the time you can pull it apart.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jSSg6qJ353s/USlCeDv1-BI/AAAAAAAAFgI/kl5tuNYepR8/s800/1980300sd526.JPG)

Once the sheathing is off, you'll have exposed wires. The factory did a dirty trick and made one of the two red wires from the alternator harness use the same connector as the wire that goes from the junction block to the wire harness that goes up the inner fender. So, I cut the red wire on the alternator side where it bends and gets tucked into the sheathing. After cutting it, I put electrical tape over the cut end and tucked it back inside the sheathing of the wire harness that goes up the inner fender.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-iqkMWVekBvA/USlCfiH0bvI/AAAAAAAAFgQ/-GoGRdt7j18/s800/1980300sd527.JPG)

I attached the connector on the small blue wire, and installed the red wire of the new alternator harness to the lower connection on the junction block since it would not fit on the middle connection because of the thickness of the connector. The middle and lower connections on the junction block are linked together, anyway. I made sure to sand the connections and used dielectric grease on them.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-bRhzbfdPEnA/USlChPm-dfI/AAAAAAAAFgY/ISmCoPOr0m4/s800/1980300sd528.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 23 February 2013, 07:30 PM
Here is the W126 alternator wire harness installed.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-7KdlDqVAlGg/USlCjBHkj4I/AAAAAAAAFgg/mjkAUqrSblw/s800/1980300sd529.JPG)

I sanded the belt surface of the small pulley with 80 grit sandpaper, making perpendicular lines to discourage belt slippage.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-fQDYkI5T0b8/USlCkUR5F_I/AAAAAAAAFgo/Za5LKL-MqC4/s800/1980300sd530.JPG)

The old 6-blade fan and large pulley are on the left, and the upgrade 9-blade fan and small pulley are on the right.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-oTW5m6w6s-A/USlCmsyqn3I/AAAAAAAAFgw/CqMK2r37y6c/s800/1980300sd531.JPG)

Here is the pretty 80 amp alternator ready to install.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-tsOL7GdzmiM/USlCqKR_VdI/AAAAAAAAFhA/4zO8aU3EgGQ/s800/1980300sd533.JPG)

The body of the alternator is supposed to be grounded to the bracket, which is grounded to the engine block, which is grounded to the body through a strap. I sanded and used dielectric grease wherever the alternator touches the bracket.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8sOfSM_MvSI/USlCrvSAB0I/AAAAAAAAFhI/ZC82dmAqBDI/s800/1980300sd534.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 23 February 2013, 07:47 PM
I straightened and painted the alternator adjuster bracket and bolt.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7t9QxGyFkC0/USlCtCgVlII/AAAAAAAAFhQ/jn1_2z82heA/s800/1980300sd535.JPG)

The adjuster brackets were plated at the factory, so since I painted mine, I scratched away the paint where the alternator contacts it, and where the adjuster bracket contacts the bracket, in order to better ground it (dielectric grease was used on these points).
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xN75WJ5nGKg/USlCuvzfq9I/AAAAAAAAFhY/Dlg7g3KiyH0/s800/1980300sd536.JPG)

I installed the alternator and adjuster bracket, loosening the tension screw as far as it would go. I couldn't get the new 10X1000 belts I ordered to fit on the pulleys. I realized this is because the new belts weren't stretched out yet, therefore would not go on. There was still room for the tension screw to move, but the body of the alternator was preventing it from moving any further.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-8ZDw_n3GivI/USlCv5isQjI/AAAAAAAAFhg/5et970hjPdU/s800/1980300sd537.JPG)

I tried all kinds of ways to get the belts to fit, but I could not get one on the inner track of the pulleys. There was enough room to get used, stretched belts on, but not new ones.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MI6AbDxAOxA/USlCxRZsyWI/AAAAAAAAFho/TUK9VtUlCsU/s800/1980300sd538.JPG)

The only way I could get the new belts on was by removing the fan and pulley, putting the belts on with the pulley, screwing in one fan bolt a few turns, and sliding on the fan and installing the other three bolts. 10X1035 is too long, and 10X1000 is too short. Ideally, I need an in-between belt size.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-rRqi5hbjhkU/USlCzIPQNlI/AAAAAAAAFhw/1f5On-JHO3M/s800/1980300sd539.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 23 February 2013, 07:55 PM
Here is the alternator installed with a boot I removed from a W124.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-mIC_y-1epGM/USlC0eqj5ZI/AAAAAAAAFh4/dIcGfRY8loE/s800/1980300sd540.JPG)

The 9 blade fan and small pulley are installed.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-25ZEznGbZdQ/USlC1yrD4gI/AAAAAAAAFiA/K6Fw-m5Yszo/s800/1980300sd541.JPG)

My upgraded alternator is in place with new (albeit slightly too short) belts. There is more travel room on the adjuster bracket to loosen the tension screw, but the alternator body hits the lower bracket. Once the belts were in place, they were fairly loose and tightened up just fine.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fcQZvnhNkU4/USlC3e90TzI/AAAAAAAAFiI/r3BTQYxQoJE/s800/1980300sd542.JPG)

I put a multimeter on my battery and it showed a 13.08 volt charge.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ShrTuM6ETEk/USlC5QcJ2TI/AAAAAAAAFiQ/SOAcQogJzi0/s800/1980300sd543.JPG)

With the engine at idle, the voltage started climbing, showing that the alternator is working and is charging the battery.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Y0bUvFp150I/USlC8UMOCiI/AAAAAAAAFig/pxFulFWrDwc/s800/1980300sd545.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: John Hubertz on 24 February 2013, 12:14 AM
It is a thing of beauty to see the final shots of successful voltage measurement with the battery nestled in the restored battery box.  That alternator and fan assembly certainly look sharp as well.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Tony66_au on 24 February 2013, 05:42 AM
Love your work SG!

and 13.9 to 14.5 volts is perfect!
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 28 February 2013, 01:43 PM
Here's a nice extra-heavy-duty roof rack for you Squiggle!  I hope they put some rope on there to secure the load before they go off-roading again...

(http://i.ebayimg.com/t/HO-Busch-WEATHERED-Mercedes-Benz-W123-Car-with-OVERLOADED-ROOF-RACK-46858-/00/s/NDAwWDU3Ng==/$(KGrHqZ,!pgE-v3LzGuGBPz3fQ5t8Q~~60_3.GIF)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 28 February 2013, 09:54 PM
Oh, wow! That's quite the roof rack. I like mine, but the way it clamps on the roof is horrible and tends to slide when loaded.

So far my alternator is still charging and the front crank seal and lower oil pan area are totally dry.

I received my 500,000 km award for having rolled over 312,000 miles on my Washington parts recovery trip. This is the second mileage award I have received.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-pe4OxB18mW8/USlBwIWeG1I/AAAAAAAAFdY/VRpEfc03acI/s800/1980300sd504.JPG)

I installed the badge on the grille next to my 250,000 km one. I also installed a Saudi Arabia badge that I purchased last year, next to my Mercedes-Benz Club of America one. I spent the first 12 years of my life in Saudi Arabia, so the badge has meaning.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qJghTYUbzlA/UTAUX1mzJ0I/AAAAAAAAFks/p8PXy-zAn_A/s800/1980300sd547.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-p97cy0pkp_U/UTAUkNn79SI/AAAAAAAAFk0/jIpKDKJv77w/s800/1980300sd548.JPG)

When I was getting junkyard parts for people, I came across a nice horn pad with a mint condition emblem, so I installed it. The horn pad had yellow paint on it, but I was able to remove it with Easy-Off Oven Cleaner.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-MbZWqZB91aE/USlC-bGWJ7I/AAAAAAAAFio/0d8fjeBSod0/s800/1980300sd546.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 06 March 2013, 10:21 PM
My parents came down from Utah to visit me this past weekend, so I chauffeured them around town in my 300SD. They were happy to experience 80F Arizona weather, since it was only 20F in Utah!

The day after I dropped them off at the airport, a package arrived from Australia, less than a week after it was shipped! It was my W116 headlight protectors which I had seen on Australia's Gumtree, but the seller would not respond to my emails. A few good people on W116.org were willing to help me obtain them, however KenM picked them up first and was kind enough to cover the postage for me! I am very appreciative of what he has done for me. People like him are very valuable and worth recognizing.

My vehicle was in a crash at some time in its life, which shifted the front end over about an inch. Because of this, the grille would hit one of the screens when opening and closing the hood. As much as I hated to do it, I had to bend the mounting brackets on the right one sideways in order to shift it over so the grille would clear it. I can straighten them back if I have my body aligned. The screens were quite bent and misshapen, probably from being in a collision, so it took several hours of bending to get them to the right shape. I also had to fiddle with the gaskets to get them lined up and the wires in the middle of them. They came out rather nice looking.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-OU9-Po88drU/UTgBmrUGSmI/AAAAAAAAFnc/wuZijrbh4FQ/s800/1980300sd550.JPG)

The top of the overrider mounting bolts cannot be accessed with a socket, but with an open-end wrench however you can fit it. It's doable. The screens prohibit the use of headlight squirters, but I already decided to not install headlight wipers. Removing the corner lights to replace the bulbs may be difficult, but at least the screens will protect the plastic lenses. Opening the hood is a little tricky as there is not much room to reach the latches on each side of the grille. However, the screens fit great now, and I am really happy with them.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-pUmonKIs05Q/UTgBofo204I/AAAAAAAAFnk/0taBUGXiXq8/s800/1980300sd551.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-DXe2oIiEdso/UTgBsqy-6EI/AAAAAAAAFns/5cH9XlLWa2o/s800/1980300sd552.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-vEva5HqYNkc/UTgBuQvf6QI/AAAAAAAAFn0/3mzpDx5-73k/s800/1980300sd553.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dDm9o6w0SQM/UTgBwJpOMHI/AAAAAAAAFn8/OE0enOe8N4k/s800/1980300sd554.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 06 March 2013, 10:28 PM
The headlight screens look amazing when the lights are on and don't seem to effect the beam much at all. I'm so thankful that despite having debt and no real source of income, that I'm able to continue to keep my car on the road and improve it, making some money selling wrecking yard Mercedes parts and with the help of other forum members.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-eYGDH3vn5eo/UTgByr2mHaI/AAAAAAAAFoE/FnOkyYbZTJk/s800/1980300sd555.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Z4vQl8HEbgA/UTgB0QSOiJI/AAAAAAAAFoM/bGxeWx7I0uQ/s800/1980300sd556.JPG)

When I had the hood open, I noticed that the fan belts were in perfect alignment, despite my not having installed them that way! What are the chances of them stopping with both logos facing up in EXACTLY the same position? I found it really interesting.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HOGltN6YHBA/UTgBdgkQ0mI/AAAAAAAAFnI/YVJQjvECOUU/s800/1980300sd549.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: oversize on 06 March 2013, 10:54 PM
Those headlight protectors should be very effective!  And if I was replacing belts that's exactly how I'd do it!  It's all about attention to detail!  BTW check your previous pics and you'll find that you DID do it!
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 06 March 2013, 10:59 PM
Ooh, I like those headlight guards.  If any more show up and Australian friends are willing to help get another set shipped over stateside, I'd definitely be interested in a set.  I just noticed when gassing up the 450SEL today when I got home that a big chunk of the plastic headlight door was broken off and sitting down inside the remaining portion.  Apparently some rock or something had hit it while driving - it definitely wasn't broken a couple days ago.

I saw something at a junkyard recently I wonder if you'd be interested in - it was a big bugscreen made of plexiglass and aluminum shaped in a V-shape, mounted via two bolts that went through the grille and not directly connected to the hood in any other way.  It was very unique and even though a bit yellowed with age and not something I'd probably ever use myself, I was thinking of buying it because it wouldn't have been that much and was unique.  The grille frame was remarkably corrosion-free (as was the rest of the car) so I'd removed it and set it aside.  However I ended up spending tons of money on other parts from the car though, and then forgot all about it.  I have no idea if it's still there at this point.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 07 March 2013, 01:04 AM
Quote from: oversize on 06 March 2013, 10:54 PM
Those headlight protectors should be very effective!  And if I was replacing belts that's exactly how I'd do it!  It's all about attention to detail!  BTW check your previous pics and you'll find that you DID do it!

The belt logos are lined up in a previous picture, but I know that by the time I actually got the belts on, they were way off. In the past I used to line up the logos, but within seconds of running the logos would be way off. So, even if they were installed that way, they would go out of alignment very shortly. When I opened the hood and saw the logos lined up, I thought, "No way!"
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 07 March 2013, 01:08 AM
Quote from: Casey on 06 March 2013, 10:59 PM
Ooh, I like those headlight guards.  If any more show up and Australian friends are willing to help get another set shipped over stateside, I'd definitely be interested in a set.  I just noticed when gassing up the 450SEL today when I got home that a big chunk of the plastic headlight door was broken off and sitting down inside the remaining portion.  Apparently some rock or something had hit it while driving - it definitely wasn't broken a couple days ago.

I saw something at a junkyard recently I wonder if you'd be interested in - it was a big bugscreen made of plexiglass and aluminum shaped in a V-shape, mounted via two bolts that went through the grille and not directly connected to the hood in any other way.  It was very unique and even though a bit yellowed with age and not something I'd probably ever use myself, I was thinking of buying it because it wouldn't have been that much and was unique.  The grille frame was remarkably corrosion-free (as was the rest of the car) so I'd removed it and set it aside.  However I ended up spending tons of money on other parts from the car though, and then forgot all about it.  I have no idea if it's still there at this point.

Hopefully you can find a set. My roommate is looking for a set for his W111 sedan. When I see them on cars, it's almost always Australian ones.

I have no idea what that bug screen would even look like, but it sounds interesting. Was it on a W116? It sounds like it would be a great novelty.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 07 March 2013, 01:27 AM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 07 March 2013, 01:08 AM
I have no idea what that bug screen would even look like, but it sounds interesting. Was it on a W116? It sounds like it would be a great novelty.

Yep it was on the immaculate anthracite grey on black 1974 450SE I found that I got all four doors, the black leather seats, mint steering wheel and rearview mirror, and boatload of other random parts from.  I wish I had gotten a picture. :/  The bottom was aluminum, with two mount points that went through the plastic portion of the grille and clamped on via a bolt on the reverse - the aluminum was V-shaped with the point being directly in front of the Mercedes star, and the line of the aluminum being right along the top edge of the headlights (again though, not connected and so standing an inch or so in front of them).  Then mounted into the aluminum channel was a V-shaped piece of plexiglass, maybe 4 inches tall.  it spanned edge to edge the width of the car, or at least to the outer edges of each headlight.  It looked a bit absurd, but as you suggest, I thought it would be a fun novelty.  Maybe I'll have a quick stop by there to see if it's still around, but I kind of doubt it since the grille was in great shape and those usually disappear fast.  I also have very little money right now so don't really want to spend the gas money going out of my way there to either A> not find anything or B> end up spending more money I haven't got. :P

If I had more funds available, there were still a fair bit of very nice parts left on the car that I would have been happy to buy.  Unfortunately it's probably gone already knowing how fast the yard moves cars.  It even had an absolutely perfect windshield, but I sadly managed to break it trying to remove it (first time that's happened) because the car had actually been maintained well and the gasket sealant was still quite strong.  I have no idea why the car was in the junk yard.  The only thing I could find wrong with it was a broken exhaust manifold.  If I had a trailer I would have just tried to buy the whole car, as I'm pretty sure I spent a fair amount more than it would have cost buying all the parts that I did. :P
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: KenM on 07 March 2013, 03:50 AM
The screens look the goods Squiggle, I knew you would not have much trouble straightening them out and getting them to fit. Glad I could help out, I'll keep an eye out Casey, no doubt some will show up for

sale again sooner or later.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 12 April 2013, 11:35 PM
I made a 4-hour round trip to Tucson to pick up a friend from Washington who was visiting his parents. The 300SD did well. I made the trip a second time to drop him off back down there. This coming week I'm driving 2 hours north to Flagstaff to deliver car parts to NCfriend who will be delivering them to Casey.

I serviced my air filter and decided it was time to repair the stripped-out threads on my air cleaner. There were only about two threads left at the very end, just enough to keep the wing nut from coming off with the help of some thread locker.

This is the second air cleaner I have repaired, so some of the pictures below are from a previous job. I cut off the threaded portion of the shaft with a cut-off tool.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-IbwlfVt_j5A/T8LmbeRw1PI/AAAAAAAAEJA/9soORm-v1qs/s800/DSC06714.JPG)

Then I got a metric tap and die set. The drill bit included was rather dull, and I found using a smaller size bit is better because chances are the hole will be oval and a little larger than you like.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-5XeEsco4QFQ/T8Lmc3FnqcI/AAAAAAAAEJE/uyIzCIFWg4E/s800/DSC06716.JPG)

To make a new stud I cut off the head of a spare bolt with the same thread pitch as the wing nut (I like using the wing nuts that come on the power steering pumps). I cut it 22mm long; 10mm goes into the hole, 12mm sticks out the top.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ynJgrkmg-6E/T81-JVhBWyI/AAAAAAAAELw/W-jwUEPZjfc/s800/DSC06737.JPG)

Then I drilled deep enough to be able to put in enough threads (if you don't drill deep enough, the tap will bottom out and when you try to thread it in further it will rip out your threads). I made the hole 15mm deep so that I could thread it 10mm down without the end of the tap hitting the bottom of the hole. I also did it with the air cleaner attached to the engine, so I taped up the intake holes well and vacuumed and cleaned out the metal shavings when I was done.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bGuG5wzwvXo/T81-LP3tdkI/AAAAAAAAEL4/_kkrbhx6TQc/s800/DSC06739.JPG)

I put JB Weld on the threads of the stud and screwed it in with the help of two nuts jammed together until there was 12mm sticking out (factory spec). After waiting 24 hours, the repair was a success (and if the stud strips out in the future, it can be removed and replaced).
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_0xarUVwjyI/UVJwdFP7vqI/AAAAAAAAFrs/UTejzxjzTAU/s800/1980300sd557.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 13 April 2013, 12:10 AM
This is what happens when it rains in Phoenix:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HvCrI9ZewwM/UWi3gABWwiI/AAAAAAAAFsU/F9wW5ogy0Ts/s800/1980300sd561.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-10hrWX0JfPE/UWi3iteSxhI/AAAAAAAAFsc/V6RWZ-3DVjU/s800/1980300sd562.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-C0AKE5gYhRc/UWi3kv1ti2I/AAAAAAAAFsk/dB8DyNL0XMw/s800/1980300sd563.JPG)

I'm patiently waiting to have my garage space back. My roommate was working on some projects and then my parents delivered my antiques that were at their place in Utah. I put them in the garage and ended up selling them all.

One of the items was the first color television set sold to the public; a 1954 Westinghouse. Including this one, only 20 are known to exist and almost all of them have bad picture tubes due to a design flaw, and they are currently not rebuildable. Mine still works and has strong color guns. I sold it for $4,000, which is for less than what I had hoped, seeing as how one with a bad picture tube went for $8,800 last year on eBay, but it will help me pay bills and get out of debt.

There was also a piano, and some 1920s phonographs and radios, all which are now gone, and I'm just waiting on the rest of the money for the television so I can crate it up and ship it off to the buyer. If all goes well, I should have half of my medical bills paid off within the month and enough money to get me by for another month, at which time I am hoping to have a job.

I went to the wrecking yards today. I noticed that one of the W126 sedans had these nifty little amplifiers for the rear speakers mounted in front of the rear shock absorber plugs. I was thinking that these would be neat to have as I could mount them to my car, and would use the wiring harness attached--however, I changed my mind when I looked up the part number and saw that Mercedes would want over $1,500 a piece if I had to replace one!
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ZTI9qBGDNNg/UWi3-NbtWaI/AAAAAAAAFuM/uCZyzny3DgE/s800/1980300sd566.JPG)

From the same 420SEL I removed the axle shafts. Mine have cracked boots. I figure that once my boots split, I can install these axle shafts. These ones appear to have good boots, except for one that is weather-checked. These are upgrades in that I can install them as-is, and then when the boots go bad I can replace the boots without having to remove the shafts from the vehicle, or at least I won't have to cut the cans to get the boots off because they come apart with bolts, which makes changing boots easy.

This is the second set of Mercedes axle shafts that I have removed. The first ones took maybe 3 hours to remove. This time I did it in less than an hour. I just unbolted the bolts at the hub side of the axles, unbolted the sway bar from the body, unbolted the shock absorbers up top, cut the rear brake hoses, tapped the outer ends of the axle shafts out with a socket extension, pried the ends of the axle shafts out with a flatblade screwdriver, unbolted the differential and let it drop, removed the differential cover, tapped off the circlips, and pulled out the axle shafts.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9YY3m6jq-ZQ/UWi4GMZiBhI/AAAAAAAAFus/n7mUUFAINUU/s800/1980300sd567.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: s class on 16 April 2013, 02:37 AM
That's neat work you did with the aircleaner stud. 
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: oversize on 16 April 2013, 07:20 PM
I agree; great job!  Now get that car outta the rain!!!!   ;) :D
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: ZCarFan on 16 April 2013, 11:01 PM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 13 April 2013, 12:10 AM
This is what happens when it rains in Phoenix:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HvCrI9ZewwM/UWi3gABWwiI/AAAAAAAAFsU/F9wW5ogy0Ts/s800/1980300sd561.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-10hrWX0JfPE/UWi3iteSxhI/AAAAAAAAFsc/V6RWZ-3DVjU/s800/1980300sd562.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-C0AKE5gYhRc/UWi3kv1ti2I/AAAAAAAAFsk/dB8DyNL0XMw/s800/1980300sd563.JPG)


That's what all the cars in Georgia look like right now except it's tree pollen.  Seems it got up to 8,000 per cubic meter on the 11th and its dropping fast now :)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 18 April 2013, 09:34 PM
Yesterday I packed my 300SD full of parts, and this morning I made a trip to Flagstaff to meet NCfriend who will be handing them off to Casey. I managed to get four bucket seats, a lower rear seat cushion, a windshield, heater assembly, two wheels, seat skins, and a few boxes of parts in there. It's also a good thing that I opened the hood before I left, because there was a cat resting where the evil climate control servo used to be.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-3MBdtkHsCMM/UXCpQ1CW6_I/AAAAAAAAFxI/2M3eA7cMJG0/s800/1980300sd568.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-33eToLTiynA/UXCpSh29qtI/AAAAAAAAFxQ/eSeGELvzZmk/s800/1980300sd569.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-MRw6o_DYo0k/UXCpUTlCamI/AAAAAAAAFxY/CiUTRjDTLcE/s800/1980300sd570.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-99Mq7yk_lEU/UXCpWEBoXYI/AAAAAAAAFxg/65Bd9OcaUF8/s800/1980300sd571.JPG)

We had lunch at Delhi Palace, which had the best Indian food I have ever tasted. I was amazed at the difference in climate between Phoenix and Flagstaff. It felt like it was only 40 degrees Fahrenheit there, while it felt like 90 degrees once I got back.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-i6QJnx8tJRk/UXCpZfHK_6I/AAAAAAAAFxo/LqdHbwkXU_k/s800/1980300sd572.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: John Hubertz on 18 April 2013, 09:52 PM
Car looks great in that last shot Squiggie - best view of it so far in my opinion.  I'm becoming quite fond of the "rat rod" paint and somewhat unconventional roof rack + whitewalls.  Your air cleaner repair was as usual, an amazing tale.  You are making huge progress.

Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 19 April 2013, 12:40 PM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 18 April 2013, 09:34 PM
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-i6QJnx8tJRk/UXCpZfHK_6I/AAAAAAAAFxo/LqdHbwkXU_k/s800/1980300sd572.JPG)

Indeed, as John expressed, this is a great picture - really makes all the unusual options you've added like the euro headlights with rock guards, fender chrome, roof rack, US-spec 6.9 bumpers, window tinting, and even the grille badges and that front license plate placeholder, really shine.  Even that evil sunroof wind deflector doesn't look bad with all the other stuff going on.  It's come together very nicely.  Looking forward to the carload-o-parts. :)

I wish I'd bought that custom bugscreen I saw on the junkyard 450SE for you.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: jbrasile on 19 April 2013, 01:56 PM
Squiggle, have you thought about putting some of your incredible mechanical talent to work on a professional level?

I see your posts and your attention to detail is second to none. It is extremely rare to find someone nowadays that works on cars with such passion and care. You would be a great addition to any shop that specializes in older MB's, and that's a fact!

Congratulations!

Joe
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 19 April 2013, 04:43 PM
To be honest, working on cars is more something I do because I have to, rather than a hobby. But, I enjoy my car and do what I can as I can. I have a Class B commercial drivers license with several endorsements, so a driving job is really the only work I can get that will pay enough to live outside of poverty.

If I had a choice of career, I'd want to be a graphic artist or performing musician (such as concert violinist).
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: John Hubertz on 19 April 2013, 09:16 PM
Squiggle,

What you might not be aware of is how much money a creative restorer/repair specialist is making these days.  Even starting pay is way over what you might expect.

My background before I left Ford Motor Company was as a field service engineer.  Believe me, you have talent - rare talent.  I would proudly vouch for you to every Ford Dealership in Arizona if it would help you improve your circumstances.  In fact, you may put me down as a job reference.  I can think of five or six projects of yours that have left me in awe.

Thanks to Joe for bringing that up.  I feel like a fool for not thinking of it before - you've been very upfront about your occasional ramen-noodle budget.  Just imagine SD - imagine what you'll be able to accomplish in a year, in three years, as you build your skills and your tool set.  This is also a very superior path to business ownership - as true mechanical talent is rare anywhere.

I've got a wall of plaques and diplomas that claim I know what I'm talking about.  Not to mention I've been in and around cars as a career since 1975.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: jbrasile on 19 April 2013, 10:35 PM
John that would be wonderful!!!

Squiggle, seriously, listen to John, he's been around the industry and definitely knows what he's talking about.

I have not been in business that long in the automotive field but have been working and tinkering with my own cars  for the past 30 years, you have a rare talent SD and should not let it go to waste.

If I were to open a restoration shop in the US you would  be my first choice to join the team.

Think about it...

I know we all have our bills to pay and sometimes we get lost just trying to make ends meet and loose sight of we can really accomplish. You can count on my full support as well!!!

Take care,

Joe
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 25 April 2013, 03:28 PM
Thanks for the encouragement. I've been fairly distracted lately from looking for work with working on my roommate's cars, doing yardwork to satisfy the nitpicky Homeowners Association, and getting back into practice with my musical instruments. I have some people that want me to draw pictures for them, but I'm a bit out of practice and need to spend some more time with that so it doesn't take me forever to finish a drawing.

I've also got to organize my storage shed, consolidating like items and putting some of the large boxes into the casita so I can actually access the things I need to. I dread doing this, though, as the property is infested with deadly poisonous bark scorpions, black widow spiders, roaches, and crickets.

It's not uncommon for me to find a bark scorpion in the house several times a week! Just last night there was one crawling on the wall, the day before there was one near the back sliding door, and earlier that same day there was one under the garbage can in the house. I had no idea scorpions would be such a problem here. When I lived in Saudi Arabia, I only saw one scorpion in 12 years, and it was a harmless, large black emperor scorpion. The camel spiders were quite frightening, however, and I did see several of them.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: JasonP on 25 April 2013, 04:25 PM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 25 April 2013, 03:28 PM

It's not uncommon for me to find a bark scorpion in the house several times a week!



That would suck for me - I sleep on the floor. I have seen spiders in my house, but I have never had a bad bite. It's all wolf spiders here.

Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 25 April 2013, 06:26 PM
Quote from: JasonP on 25 April 2013, 04:25 PM
That would suck for me - I sleep on the floor. I have seen spiders in my house, but I have never had a bad bite. It's all wolf spiders here.

I used to sleep on the floor until I moved here. There were so many creepy crawlies that I had to get a bed, though the scorpions can still crawl up walls and even walk on ceilings if they want.

This poor lady's house is only about 30 miles from mine (and the scorpions do glow bright under UV light, making them easy to spot):
http://www.youtube.com/v/LAH0mWD25H8
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: oversize on 25 April 2013, 08:38 PM
We've had millipedes which fortunately aren't poisonous.  But they're disgusting and there was 1000s.  Luckily a neighbour put me onto some insecticide which did the trick and they're still dying months later....
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 01 May 2013, 10:10 AM
Hey Squiggle, maybe you'd like some custom gauge faceplates in zebrano?  Dunno, this would probably be a bit much in conjunction with the zebrano instrument cluster you have, but I came across these and thought they were neat:

(http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachments/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/49250d1194383841-mercedes-benz-gauge-faces-w124-w201-w126-zebrano-cluster.jpg)

Also I notice you still have the 85mph speedometer.  Any plans to upgrade to 120mph speedo from a 1978/1979 model?
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 01 May 2013, 11:59 AM
What the... those are some fancy gauges and actually look like they would almost fit a W116. Yeah, it might be a bit much since I already have the wood around them (though the heat is warping the wood, so disappointed).

I'm probably going to stick with my 85 MPH speedometer because I don't realistically think I'll ever drive faster than that. I don't think there is anywhere in the USA except maybe Texas where speeds any faster than that are allowed. I also like how I get to use the entire speedometer instead of letting most of the right side go to waste. My last 300SD has the 120 MPH speedometer and I can't say I really prefer one or the other.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 01 May 2013, 12:40 PM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 01 May 2013, 11:59 AM
I'm probably going to stick with my 85 MPH speedometer because I don't realistically think I'll ever drive faster than that. I don't think there is anywhere in the USA except maybe Texas where speeds any faster than that are allowed. I also like how I get to use the entire speedometer instead of letting most of the right side go to waste. My last 300SD has the 120 MPH speedometer and I can't say I really prefer one or the other.

I think the 85mph speedometers are a bad joke...the cars will easily reach about 103 if memory serves me correct and I feel that even if you won't go faster than the speedometer, it should cover the range speed the car can actually go.  My 200D has a top speed rating of 84mph, and legal or not, around here if you're only doing 80mph on the freeway, there will be many people passing you.  I've chilled out lately and slowed down to the speed limit since recent speeding tickets have added up, and it pisses so many people off for me to be just cruising at 65mph on the freeway.  I get honked at, dirty looks, and the worst swerved around by people missing hitting my car by a couple inches, even sitting in the slow lane.  Particularly when passing onramps but also passing middle-lane traffic in the slow lane is a popular activity around here.  I've been just tuning it out as best I can, trying to remember that it's their problem not mine, but it can be fairly irritating since I'm driving a nice car and worry about getting hit and an insurance company wanting to pay me peanuts if anything happens to the car because of somebody else.  I have the 160mph speedo meaning I never even get the needle up to halfway anymore, and once or twice in the past I did get it up to 120-130 just to see that it would (and as long as your tires aren't junk, the W116 handles those speeds quite well I must say!).

There's a race track nearby in West Virginia where apparently you can go take some practice sessions and then be able to drive on your own - I think that's what I'll look into doing at some point. :)

Montana used to have no speed limit on most of the freeways, and I think they still don't during daylight hours.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: ZCarFan on 01 May 2013, 07:27 PM
Quote from: Casey on 01 May 2013, 12:40 PM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 01 May 2013, 11:59 AM
I'm probably going to stick with my 85 MPH speedometer because I don't realistically think I'll ever drive faster than that. I don't think there is anywhere in the USA except maybe Texas where speeds any faster than that are allowed. I also like how I get to use the entire speedometer instead of letting most of the right side go to waste. My last 300SD has the 120 MPH speedometer and I can't say I really prefer one or the other.

I think the 85mph speedometers are a bad joke...the cars will easily reach about 103 if memory serves me correct and I feel that even if you won't go faster than the speedometer, it should cover the range speed the car can actually go.  My 200D has a top speed rating of 84mph, and legal or not, around here if you're only doing 80mph on the freeway, there will be many people passing you.  I've chilled out lately and slowed down to the speed limit since recent speeding tickets have added up, and it pisses so many people off for me to be just cruising at 65mph on the freeway.  I get honked at, dirty looks, and the worst swerved around by people missing hitting my car by a couple inches, even sitting in the slow lane.  Particularly when passing onramps but also passing middle-lane traffic in the slow lane is a popular activity around here.  I've been just tuning it out as best I can, trying to remember that it's their problem not mine, but it can be fairly irritating since I'm driving a nice car and worry about getting hit and an insurance company wanting to pay me peanuts if anything happens to the car because of somebody else.  I have the 160mph speedo meaning I never even get the needle up to halfway anymore, and once or twice in the past I did get it up to 120-130 just to see that it would (and as long as your tires aren't junk, the W116 handles those speeds quite well I must say!).

There's a race track nearby in West Virginia where apparently you can go take some practice sessions and then be able to drive on your own - I think that's what I'll look into doing at some point. :)

Montana used to have no speed limit on most of the freeways, and I think they still don't during daylight hours.

The track is called Summit Point Motorsports Park, or just Summit point if you want to keep it short.  Virginia International Raceway (or as it's known, VIR) is not too far away either but that is a high-speed track; the SD would be straining on the straights.  If you want to work the car out, join the SCCA and you can do some autocross events.  I plan to take my Civic out for at least one day once I get the suspension sorted out.  There was one fellow that was autcrossing a 280SE in the ATL region a while back, so anything will work so long as you don't mind not winning your class.  Classic Motorsports magazine has even been working on a Fintail project so a Mercedes is welcome amongst the sports car crowd.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 01 May 2013, 08:03 PM
What's funny is that even the 450SEL got 85 MPH speedometers in the USA in 1980. I've been an extremely cautious driver my whole life and have a perfect driving record so far. This is important because I have a CDL and my next employment will most likely be a driving job. I might do 10-15 MPH over the speed limit if the traffic behind and around me is moving that fast. Any faster and I move over to the next lane to the right and let them pass me.

As far as I'm concerned anything above 85 MPH on a speedometer is wasted space, though it is nice to have one that goes as high as the car goes. I don't think I've ever driven a car faster than 85 MPH. I used to drive my 1968 W110 200D fintail at 80 MPH for hours on end, but that was about as fast as I liked to push the engine.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: karmann_20v on 01 May 2013, 08:13 PM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 01 May 2013, 08:03 PM
What's funny is that even the 450SEL got 85 MPH speedometers in the USA in 1980.

I was just going to post that! At first, I thought somebody swapped the 450SEL speedo with a 300SD but then I saw other 450s with that. I think it's silly on a car that has a higher top speed, but hey at least you can brag that you berried the needle  8)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: jbrasile on 01 May 2013, 09:18 PM
My 1980 450SEL had the 85mph speedo  and I just couldn't stand looking at it.... Had the car several times above that speed and it just looked ludicrous, so when my oil temp gauge started leaking I took the whole cluster out and had the speedometer modified to a proper 160mph scale, they also calibrated it at the same time and it is still super accurate to this day.

I have to confess that that car has seen 115 a couple of times late at night on the freeway, albeit for a very short period...

Tks

Joe
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 01 May 2013, 09:23 PM
I've been wondering if it damages the speedometer any if it gets pegged out. I've had it really close to pegged a few times and was afraid to go any faster. I assume the factory would have designed it to not be damaged, but it's something I've been curious about.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: jbrasile on 01 May 2013, 09:26 PM
No damage....you just to keep staring at that needle pegged at 85... very annoying, hehehe...

Tks,

Joe

Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: oversize on 01 May 2013, 10:44 PM
That's a great set of gauges!  WOW
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 02 May 2013, 07:46 AM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 01 May 2013, 08:03 PM
I might do 10-15 MPH over the speed limit if the traffic behind and around me is moving that fast. Any faster and I move over to the next lane to the right and let them pass me.

I think all of my speeding tickets have been for 10-16mph over (the highest I can remember being 16). It's interesting to me because it represents the normal driving speeds here, and though I tend to keep up with the faster folks on the road I try never to be the fastest and it's not too uncommon to see people going over 100 weaving around cars in three lanes. I think it's what I get for driving a red car... So now I'm driving much slower, just sitting right at the limit in the rightmost lane. Occasionally someone will follow behind me for a bit, but pretty much everyone passes. Sometimes there are trucks going under or at the limit - I feel safer getting in front of them...
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 02 May 2013, 07:50 AM
Quote from: ZCarFan on 01 May 2013, 07:27 PM
The track is called Summit Point Motorsports Park, or just Summit point if you want to keep it short.  Virginia International Raceway (or as it's known, VIR) is not too far away either but that is a high-speed track; the SD would be straining on the straights.  If you want to work the car out, join the SCCA and you can do some autocross events.  I plan to take my Civic out for at least one day once I get the suspension sorted out.  There was one fellow that was autcrossing a 280SE in the ATL region a while back, so anything will work so long as you don't mind not winning your class.  Classic Motorsports magazine has even been working on a Fintail project so a Mercedes is welcome amongst the sports car crowd.

Yes Summit Point is the one I was referring to. I'd use a 450SEL or 6.9 for that purpose rather than a 300SD; will have to check out VIR. B)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 05 June 2013, 06:42 PM
The scorpion problem seems to have gotten worse. I found six in ONE DAY! The first one I noticed because one of my dogs was tipping her head back and forth looking at something by the front door. I looked around the corner to see what she was staring at, and saw one coming right at her. So, I let the dogs outside and sprayed it. I ended up seeing two large, two medium, and two babies that day. I just went on Amazon.com and ordered professional-strength Cy-Kick CS, which should get the scorpion/black widow/roach/cricket/ant infestation under control. If you take a UV light outside and shine it on the walls, the scorpions glow a neon green. It's really cool, but I've discovered purple light does not photograph well. I've had to be super careful when working on my car because I've found black widows LOVE cars, and you never know where a scorpion will be hiding.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-2Qv-uCv0xfc/Ua_DRx6a4WI/AAAAAAAAF_g/GN5JTqjyT4g/s800/DSC08608.JPG)

I'm still somewhat floating by, selling used Mercedes parts on eBay, but I only have enough funds to get me through this month and part of the next, so I'll be looking pretty hard for a job in the next week. It's almost too hot to do the wrecking yard thing. This week (early June) it has been as hot as 110 degrees Fahrenheit and it makes working on cars difficult.

The 300SD has been handling oddly; very floaty around the corners, and the steering wheel seemed to pull to the side occasionally. It would also creak and make popping noises over bumps. I pushed up and down on each corner, and it would keep bouncing. I lifted the car and removed the shock absorbers to find that the Les Schwab Road Ryder Supreme gas-charged shocks from 1999 were blown out. Fortunately, when I lived back in Washington I saw a set of Bilsteins that looked like they were in good condition on a W116 and removed them.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Pue1z53TK_o/Ua_DfIOIIiI/AAAAAAAAF_M/kk_fNSWOUdI/s800/1980300sd573.JPG)

The Road Ryders had almost no resistance pushing them down, and they would not come back up on their own. This must be why the car wasn't handling so well, and must explain the popping noises coming from the rear end. The Bilsteins were very hard to push down on, and they would spring back immediately. Getting the front shocks off was easy, but getting the rears off was painful because not only does the rear seat have to come out to access them, but the nuts were a solid mass of rust from the rear window leaking in the past, so I had to cut them off with a rotary tool. I also made the mistake of lifting the rear of the car with the shocks disconnected, which caused the rear brake hoses to hold the weight of the rear wheels.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-suOjiJY3FoY/Ua_DijeQfWI/AAAAAAAAF_U/jwc8PkPQHs8/s800/1980300sd574.JPG)

I haven't driven the car very far yet, but I am sure having used Bilstein shocks that work will be a big improvement over used economy shocks that don't. Everything on the suspension checked out well. I was surprised to see that there was absolutely no play at all in the ball joints, tie rods, or center link. The creaking I am hearing in the front end is the lower control arm bushings. They don't seem to be worn out, but are dry. I was thinking about taking the bushings out so I can grease them, but don't know if it will mess with the alignment. If it does, I'll probably just drive it as-is until they wear out since spraying oil in the general area doesn't seem to have worked.

On my to-do list is a valve adjustment, oil tower gasket replacement, and oil change. I recently restored a 1958 GoodForm GF 2125 Tilting Clerical Chair for myself, and polished the brushed anodized aluminum finish to look like chrome. I might polish the oil tower and valve cover of the 300SD while I'm at it.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-y5JbXATomzE/Ua_LoNMjtGI/AAAAAAAAF_8/KvoR43hAkH8/s800/gfchair.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-TZEpHcHsQwQ/Ua_Lq9CWBvI/AAAAAAAAGAE/zrDQF5gGQjs/s800/gfchair2.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 09 June 2013, 02:01 AM
After doing some research on diesel performance, I had decided to remove my ALDA (the governing device on the injection pump that limits the fuel flow and ultimately fails and causes the vehicle to run sluggishly), boost overload switch, and plug the hole in the intake manifold where the banjo bolt used to be. My banjo bolt broke and so did the vacuum tube. I also had the boost overload switch disconnected anyway, and will need the switch and mounting bracket for it out of the way so there is room to properly mount the manual heater valve.

I have a thin 24mm wrench, which I placed on the nut directly under the ALDA. I put an adjustable wrench on the 27mm nut underneath. The 27mm nut on the injection side turned easily and made the ALDA spin with it. It turned out several threads, but it seems like it will not pull out; it just spins.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-lCIW_irR2hg/UbKhAmM_olI/AAAAAAAAGBM/IhbmQa7t6Kk/s800/1980300sd575.JPG)

I tried many different things to get the ALDA loose, but it is really stuck. I am concerned that my ALDA may never come off without drastic measures and possibly damaging the injection pump, so I decided take apart the ALDA to remove the parts inside.

The screws holding the ALDA halves together were stuck as well. They were super tight. I thought I was going to break the bit and wrench I was using, but three of them finally came loose. One of them did not, and I could tell it would never come loose without ruining the screw head, so I used a rotary tool and cut off the corner of the ALDA top. I was then able to pry off the top.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-0IdvozUS_nA/UbPuwfEtV0I/AAAAAAAAGBc/IFlSEt2BPHQ/s800/1980300sd576.JPG)

I removed the disk that is in the ALDA, which should have the same effect as removing the ALDA, only there will be no hole to plug. The rubber seal ring on the ALDA top had shrunken anyway, so it wasn't sealing well.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8w8CDn_-HYI/UbPuz5rNDaI/AAAAAAAAGBk/1LZFKUAiSpY/s800/1980300sd577.JPG)

I was actually able to adhere the corner back onto the ALDA with aluminum epoxy. I coated the sealing face of the ALDA lid with Reinzosil and put the top back on without the internal parts. I made sure to coat the screws with anti-seize paste.

I removed the overload protection switch from the firewall since it is no longer useful, and I need the room for when I properly install the manual heat valve (it's supposed to rest against the firewall, but I have it spaced out a bit for now).
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-65eavvRm6ZQ/UbPu2Eh6Q_I/AAAAAAAAGBs/FjN9y4YVPCs/s800/1980300sd578.JPG)

I removed my broken and repaired vacuum line as well.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Zun8Jz0dEhM/UbPu4JAgsuI/AAAAAAAAGB0/21sR6i3y9wQ/s800/1980300sd579.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 09 June 2013, 02:06 AM
I wasn't able to find a bolt of the correct thread pitch to plug the hole in the intake manifold, so I made a temporary plug so I could get to the hardware store.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--pWcWLGQtz8/UbPu6A93uuI/AAAAAAAAGB8/cbFojYEiJc8/s800/1980300sd580.JPG)

At the hardware store I discovered that the correct bolt size is M8 with a 1.0 fine thread pitch. I picked out bolts with lengths closest to the threaded portion of the banjo bolts. I made sure to use aluminum sealing washers.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-EIMg2OzfzPw/UbPu8OnUZ0I/AAAAAAAAGCE/XRODrfKQTfQ/s800/1980300sd581.JPG)

The ALDA is still on my vehicle, but the internal parts are gone, making it work the same as if it was not there. I don't know if I'll ever be able to get it off without taking drastic measures and possibly damaging the injection pump. At least I don't have to plug the hole that would have been there.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8UmzpEHP8p0/UbPu-HfLLsI/AAAAAAAAGCM/R-f9XINzacI/s800/1980300sd582.JPG)

And here is the new bolt in place of the banjo fitting. I am glad to have less parts to worry about, and no vacuum line to get plugged up and make the ALDA restrict the acceleration. My car feels quite lively now. Hardly any throttle is needed to get it rolling.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VTaLMIFrZx0/UbPvADCbiSI/AAAAAAAAGCU/Bi7lysMmvaM/s800/1980300sd583.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: JasonP on 09 June 2013, 12:19 PM


What functionality will you be losing without your ALDA? As far as I know, it works well with altitude changes, adjusting the intake to match the oxygen concentration of the air.

I saw you mentioned in some other post that we can get upwards of 400 horsepower from these engines, with modifications. I don't want a hot rod, but I would like more umph. I tested it the other month, and I go from 0 to 60 mph in 37 seconds! Maybe that is better now that I have changed fuel filters.

I would say I have to clean/replace my injectors before I do anything else, otherwise it would all be for naught.






Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 09 June 2013, 02:25 PM
The ALDA restricts your fuel flow... I think the engineers put it there to protect the engine as the turbocharged 617 was a bit of a rushed deal to satisfy emissions regulations in the 1970s and they weren't sure how much the engine could handle in all driving conditions. It is also intended to keep smoke coming out the exhaust from unburned fuel. I don't think it is necessary if you watch your throttle foot. Increasing the turbo boost pressure will also increase performance while lessening smoke from unburnt fuel because it increases the air mixture.

The ALDA goes out of adjustment or fails over time, and it can negatively affect turbo boost and restrict the fuel enough that it will make the car sluggish. The vacuum line and banjo bolt from the ALDA to the intake manifold also tends to clog, and when it does, it doesn't allow the vacuum to reach the ALDA, which sticks the injection pump in slow mode.

0 to 60 in 37 seconds is quite slow. Even my 55 horsepower 200D was specified at something like 29 seconds at the factory, and I think mine did a little better than that. I think a 10 second 0 to 60 time is not out of the question if the engine is in good health and maybe tweaked a bit. I haven't timed my 0-60 time yet.

Basically, by removing the ALDA, you get unrestricted fuel delivery (based on how much throttle you give it).
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: JasonP on 09 June 2013, 08:08 PM

Quote0 to 60 in 37 seconds is quite slow.

Ok, 32:40. I just clocked it this afternoon. The road was a slight downhill and then slight uphill. The car seems to lose acceleration around the 2,500-3,000 rpm range. The kick-down switch worked, but I did not keep it pegged the whole way up.




Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 25 June 2013, 07:56 PM
I still am not noticing any smoke after disabling the ALDA. In fact, there was a truck behind me on the way to the auto parts store, and when I got there the man asked me how old my car was. When I told him, he replied, "They had diesels back in 1980?" He also commented on how when I shot away from him at the stop light, he didn't see any smoke coming from the exhaust. So that is good.

I decided I would also get rid of the hideous EGR valve that they put on the California emissions 1980 model year 300SDs.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-LP1eArV_ySg/UcorCG_LlwI/AAAAAAAAGCo/XGs9b5hG0S8/s800/1980300sd584.JPG)

The port in the intake manifold tends to get clogged up with oily soot from the exhaust.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-4qn2az5Kz_s/UcorIPXa1uI/AAAAAAAAGC4/m230EW7j8v4/s800/1980300sd585.JPG)

I got an EGR delete kit on eBay. The plate was brushed stainless steel, but it was deeply scratched, so I sanded and polished it, but wasn't able to get the large scratches out. I thought that the heads of the bolts provided sat way too proud, so I got a set of lower profile ones. I used high heat Mega Copper sealant instead of the blue silicone sealant provided.

Installing the plug was one of the most difficult jobs I have ever done on this car. It took me two solid days! I could not get the clamp to fit around the plug without it wedging against the inner face of the plug. By the time I would make any progress, the sealant was smeared out. So, I JB Welded the plug on and then tried to put on the clamp. I got a longer bolt (finding M7 1.0 bolts is nearly impossible--I found one at Lowe's and then cut it down to size). Then the JB Weld cracked. So, after much struggling and multiple applications of sealant and the assistance of a helper, I was able to get the clamp around it, but it took a lot of prying to get the clamp to set somewhat straight. I checked it for exhaust leaks, and it seems to be tight, so yay. I plan on installing non-EGR manifolds at some point, anyway.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-cmeZSWFHOo0/UcorNL0Oi0I/AAAAAAAAGDA/l_liPAcNUas/s800/1980300sd586.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 25 June 2013, 08:46 PM
It was time to do a valve adjustment. The valves weren't off much at all. While I was in there, I inspected the timing chain. The plastic guides appeared to be in great condition, and the chain only has about 3 degrees of stretch--indicated by lining up the marks on the cam and observing the pulley pointer. So, my chain and guides should be good for a long time.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-myVgSdy14XY/UcorQ1qElCI/AAAAAAAAGDI/8al3sdESz08/s800/1980300sd587.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ERvxn0z_8as/UcorTaEzTRI/AAAAAAAAGDQ/6nvnM62DN3A/s800/1980300sd588.JPG)

I also removed the sprocket bolt to see if an offset woodruff key had been installed. It appears to have no offset.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-DaGY9z-yM90/UcorV8pU22I/AAAAAAAAGDY/GqcHGbA2Zgo/s800/1980300sd589.JPG)

My aluminum valve cover looked dull and sad, so I thought it would be a good time to clean it up. I had originally thought of making it look like chrome, but I decided to leave the texture and just bring back the shine. I started with 400 grit wet sandpaper, then went to 800, 1000, and 1500, followed by polish.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-L8UVp0srwj4/UcoraTBytTI/AAAAAAAAGDg/wkhkeEGj83c/s800/1980300sd590.JPG)

I noticed a number on the back of the valve cover, so I ended up sanding around and preserving it.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-fIcYq_35qjM/UcorcquFd2I/AAAAAAAAGDo/6vyP3rlSBfc/s800/1980300sd591.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 25 June 2013, 09:36 PM
My engine is nearly leak-free, but it has been leaking quite a bit of oil from the oil filter housing. Tightening up the bolts didn't fix it, so I knew it was time to replace the gasket.

I assume the oil level is lower than the housing, and am not sure about oil levels in the cooler lines, but it was time for an oil change, anyway--and I didn't want to test it. I drained out the old oil.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-jR1lp4PpmeY/UcorffTpb6I/AAAAAAAAGDw/FG59QMzYrBo/s800/1980300sd592.JPG)

Raising the oil tower lid helps the oil in the filter drain.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-auJPJYomtjg/UcorjDYOnTI/AAAAAAAAGD4/8b20c5n1jVc/s800/1980300sd593.JPG)

In order to loosen the oil cooler lines, a thin 24mm wrench is needed to hold the fittings from turning. You can get one of these cone wrenches from a bicycle shop for less than $10. A 27mm wrench is needed for the nuts on the oil cooler lines. If the lines are taking too much force to loosen and it's starting to round the nuts, you may have to cut a slot at the box end of the wrench so it will slip over the line and grip the nut. It may also be necessary to cut off the open end of the wrench to clear the vacuum lines. It was not necessary for me, though I did have to use a small adjustable wrench opened fully to turn off the nuts completely.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TwcWZ8tQYDQ/UcorlykpaeI/AAAAAAAAGEA/c5RSjHo6IU0/s800/1980300sd594.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-TFbfbe2Ik00/Ucorns73XBI/AAAAAAAAGEI/Ox-5mCP2Wwo/s800/1980300sd595.JPG)

After the top line is loose, there are two sets of clamps (at least on a W116) that hold the lines. These should be loosened so that the lines can be moved out of the way.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-XwVWehSMt5Q/Ucorp_vvUxI/AAAAAAAAGEQ/Qz32aANyj1Y/s800/1980300sd596.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 25 June 2013, 09:52 PM
After the top line is disconnected, you should be able to access the one below it.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-v5SBkKCkAtw/Ucorr2iL3YI/AAAAAAAAGEY/PzzMOw8dJ1s/s800/1980300sd597.JPG)

The open ends of the cooler lines should be covered with foil to prevent contaminants from getting inside. After the cooler lines are removed, there is an oil pressure line with a 17mm banjo bolt that needs to be removed as well. The later vehicles have a sensor instead of a pressure line.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-tGflPb909b8/Ucortiu_02I/AAAAAAAAGEg/Lf8lsW4oAqo/s800/1980300sd598.JPG)

At the lower rear of the housing is a 19mm banjo bolt that feeds oil to the turbocharger.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ZcdLFvOg7dc/UcorvnkYYUI/AAAAAAAAGEo/m7zWLvzqFgM/s800/1980300sd599.JPG)

Getting out the five 6mm hex key mounting bolts is a challenge. I had to use a combination of a socket and a key by itself to access them. Be very sure the tool is seated into the head fully, because it would be very easy to strip out the inside of the head! Using a 6mm ratcheting wrench on a short section cut off of a key would make the job easier.

I removed the filter, wiped the oil out of the inside of the housing, then plugged the holes to keep contaminants out while I cleaned it.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-v5zhsf6mB4s/UcorxlJhJkI/AAAAAAAAGEw/X11CTaqjZ5A/s800/1980300sd600.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-sv2haAiGPG0/UcorzZMHU0I/AAAAAAAAGE4/8f8dcN-qqvo/s800/1980300sd601.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 25 June 2013, 10:08 PM
There are two rubber O-rings (015 997 94 48) at the bottom of the tube attached to the lid that tend to shrink and harden over the years, which can delay the time the oil pressure gauge starts reading.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-hdnngJlcCrU/Ucor2VT-qKI/AAAAAAAAGFA/3RPcVbZpgvQ/s800/1980300sd602.JPG)

The oil tower has a gasket that should be replaced while it's out. After scraping off the old one that was really glued on there, I sanded off all remnants with brake parts cleaner and 220 grit sandpaper. I like to sand in a motion parallel to the edges so it helps keep the oil from weeping.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-6ney8S_ncd8/Ucor38MOn_I/AAAAAAAAGFI/1o7C6UIfZBU/s800/1980300sd603.JPG)

I started cleaning the engine block and put on safety goggles to keep debris out of my eyes. As I was working, I felt something crawl on my head and then saw it wiggling over my eye. I batted it away, and when I looked over, I saw a scorpion on its back trying to get up. I don't really like it when that happens.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-WcEcHT0IAvk/Ucor6EzpVhI/AAAAAAAAGFQ/XL4DutKQugw/s800/1980300sd604.JPG)

It was a bark scorpion, the most poisonous one in North America, and my house is infested with them.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XROzMBPTLkk/Ucor74zRtvI/AAAAAAAAGFY/GsnFS0K4Pbo/s800/1980300sd605.JPG)

Anyway, I went back to work cleaning the gasket surface. Make extra sure nothing falls into the ports.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-J_hGsbWoClA/Ucor9q0omzI/AAAAAAAAGFg/0tckPfA5Sbo/s800/1980300sd606.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 25 June 2013, 10:24 PM
Here is what a clean surface looks like. The oil filter housing should be the same way.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-vNUT-tdjHo0/Ucor_WhkcGI/AAAAAAAAGFs/F6hRf1ILxoc/s800/1980300sd607.JPG)

The aluminum looked aged and dull, so I used 400, 800, 1000, and then 1500 grit wet sandpaper on it, followed by polish.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Dc_2YxTY5Nc/UcosBZ4y_JI/AAAAAAAAGF0/zqN4k5R4zKw/s800/1980300sd608.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-eYj2KZ0Jb7w/UcosDT4JgsI/AAAAAAAAGF8/wIuCP-4wjAQ/s800/1980300sd609.JPG)

I used a light coat of Reinzosoil compound on both sides of the gasket. It's really tricky to get the housing back on without messing up the gasket, but it must be done. I put one of the bolts through the housing and the gasket to align it as I threaded the bolt. I made sure all the bolts were started a few threads before tightening them. The factory says to tighten them to 25nm, but good luck getting a torque wrench in there. I torqued one of them and then tried to match the rest.

CHOO CHOO! Funnel in place and ready for oil.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Jmolso6KLzk/UcosFyjER3I/AAAAAAAAGGE/QIkLcNhJnpY/s800/1980300sd610.JPG)

Put in the oil of your choice. I use Amsoil 15W40 Heavy Duty Diesel & Marine Synthetic Motor Oil with high phosphorus and zinc content. Don't forget to tighten up the oil pan drain plug and put in a new filter!
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-UumpKo5y290/UcosJV5JxEI/AAAAAAAAGGM/IkkxWSWhU4I/s800/1980300sd611.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: ZCarFan on 25 June 2013, 10:27 PM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 05 June 2013, 06:42 PM
The scorpion problem seems to have gotten worse. I found six in ONE DAY! ...

Funny thing.  This morning my wife woke up and excitedly asked me to remove the "bug" from her arm (she did not have her glasses on).  When I looked, yep it was a scorpion.  She did not understand why I was unwilling to remove it forcefully so she got up and grabbed it with a towel.  She then put her glasses on and screamed.  Heee heee   The ones here are mostly harmless, but unnerving nonetheless.

The ALDA compensates for intake charge density to reduce smoke and fuel usage.  When set up properly, it does not appreciably reduce power but helps economy.

Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 25 June 2013, 10:33 PM
Quote from: ZCarFan on 25 June 2013, 10:27 PM
Funny thing.  This morning my wife woke up and excitedly asked me to remove the "bug" from her arm (she did not have her glasses on).  When I looked, yep it was a scorpion.  She did not understand why I was unwilling to remove it forcefully so she got up and grabbed it with a towel.  She then put her glasses on and screamed.  Heee heee   The ones here are mostly harmless, but unnerving nonetheless.

The ALDA compensates for intake charge density to reduce smoke and fuel usage.  When set up properly, it does not appreciably reduce power but helps economy.

Oh, wow! Yeah, these ones here are bad (potentially deadly).

Most people's ALDAs are probably shot by now, so that's why disabling it may yield an improvement.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 25 June 2013, 10:42 PM
Here is the housing all polished up. So far there are no leaks from it, except the aluminum crush washers of the oil pressure line fitting really had to be cranked down upon tight to stop leaking. The EPC doesn't list the sealing washers for the oil pressure lines, but they are the aluminum ones that come in an oil filter kit that fit the oil pan drain plug.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-0eOUWO2IMoo/UcosMlvkXuI/AAAAAAAAGGU/QAMiPc8Cwbg/s800/1980300sd612.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kzl4CRLXskM/UcosUVxzXuI/AAAAAAAAGGg/CSrJq0_h-ow/s800/1980300sd613.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2EuNVXy-rI4/UcosW0C60hI/AAAAAAAAGGo/cmfcFMQzT48/s800/1980300sd614.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 25 June 2013, 10:52 PM
Here is the whole engine with the polished valve cover and oil filter housing.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-x3flGdxyGAA/Ucosaav0N7I/AAAAAAAAGGw/rHVbvwOzzXw/s800/1980300sd615.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-g9k4EvmaEUA/Ucosgp9zHRI/AAAAAAAAGG4/UH0mUBVf7Dc/s800/1980300sd616.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Cf_pZAX2hP4/UcosotsvkOI/AAAAAAAAGHQ/0w6KLd_KmKk/s800/1980300sd619.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-pWnMZ_Am47A/Ucosq3rL4oI/AAAAAAAAGHY/SSeBvIjBCFg/s800/1980300sd620.JPG)

I removed the emissions-style linkage pivot and installed one from an older vehicle. This didn't seem to affect the adjustment of the linkage.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-MtngvvXB1bI/Ucostqy9BVI/AAAAAAAAGHg/qSwrtKTANso/s800/1980300sd621.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 26 June 2013, 05:08 AM
Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 25 June 2013, 09:36 PM
If the lines are taking too much force to loosen and it's starting to round the nuts, you may have to cut a slot at the box end of the wrench so it will slip over the line and grip the nut.

You can just buy a set of flare nut wrenches, which will hold up better when used in this way since the metal is hardened favoring less brittleness.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: John Hubertz on 26 June 2013, 05:55 PM
I am amazed at how good those standard parts look once they are polished.

I'm surprised more people don't do this to their W116 engine bays - I'd love to see a 450SEL done in the same fashion.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: John Hubertz on 26 June 2013, 05:58 PM
I am amazed at how good those standard parts look once they are polished.

I'm surprised more people don't do this to their W116 engine bays - I'd love to see a 450SEL done in the same fashion.

So I did a search....  and voila!  A 450SL engine bay with plenty of polishing.

(http://cthst.com/drivingemotion/12031427-39sm.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 26 June 2013, 07:02 PM
That 450SL looks amazing! These aluminum parts can look really great with polishing. Polish by itself doesn't do much, but sanding with proper grit then polishing will bring back a nice, clean, original-looking shine. If you sand off all of the texture, you can get it smooth enough to look like a chrome-plated part.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: John Hubertz on 26 June 2013, 07:32 PM
Squig, I really think your car looks far and above better than the V8 engine bay.

That big hunk of diesel iron looks like a vintage steam engine with all the pipes and shiny bits.  The V8 is all air cleaner and "hey look at me" when polished - I think they look better stock.

I love that oil filter assembly you polished (I'm assuming that is what that is).  Do you have to change those from above when servicing the oil?  Looks like it could be messy.

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-pWnMZ_Am47A/Ucosq3rL4oI/AAAAAAAAGHY/SSeBvIjBCFg/s800/1980300sd620.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: ADV_rider on 26 June 2013, 08:19 PM
Quote from: John Hubertz on 26 June 2013, 07:32 PM
Squig, I really think your car looks far and above better than the V8 engine bay.

That big hunk of diesel iron looks like a vintage steam engine with all the pipes and shiny bits.  The V8 is all air cleaner and "hey look at me" when polished - I think they look better stock.

I love that oil filter assembly you polished (I'm assuming that is what that is).  Do you have to change those from above when servicing the oil?  Looks like it could be messy.


I also think the same.

it looks great
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 26 June 2013, 10:45 PM
Thanks! I wanted it to look nice and clean without being too blingy.

That piece I polished is the oil filter housing. It's actually really easy to do an oil change; put down a pan, remove the oil pan drain plug, loosen the two nuts on top of the oil filter housing, raise the lid, let the oil drain for a while, then lift off the lid, grab the filter by the handle, lift out the filter and throw it away, replace the large O-ring on the lid, set in the new filter, set down the lid, tighten the nuts to 25nm, put a new seal ring on the oil pan drain plug, install and tighten plug, then fill with oil.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 27 June 2013, 12:34 AM
Quote from: John Hubertz on 26 June 2013, 07:32 PM
I love that oil filter assembly you polished (I'm assuming that is what that is).  Do you have to change those from above when servicing the oil?  Looks like it could be messy.

It's about 100x nicer than the nightmare that is changing the filters in the pointing-down housings on V-8's or earlier-model diesels. No alternative then to oil running all over the housing every time you remove it. I hate changing the oil on my 450SEL compared to the 300SD.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: gavin116 on 27 June 2013, 01:40 AM
Hi Squiggle

What a great write-up notwithstanding the fact that your engine bay is looking real tidy.  I hate to have to be the one to mention it, but I think your engine is missing three cylinders ;D  On a more serious note, what does the finish look like if you just use the sandpaper?  Would there be something you could put onto this keyed surface to prevent stains from ingressing into the recently 'keyed' surface?  (I was actually thinking of having my valve covers shot blasted.)

Keep up the good work,

Gavin
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 27 June 2013, 02:32 PM
Quote from: gavin116 on 27 June 2013, 01:40 AM
On a more serious note, what does the finish look like if you just use the sandpaper?  Would there be something you could put onto this keyed surface to prevent stains from ingressing into the recently 'keyed' surface?

If you are thorough enough with the final grits and remove all the sanding marks, you have a surface that is light in color, smooth, but still somewhat dull. The polish is what removes all traces of the sanding marks and makes the surface reflective and sparkly. It also cleans out dirt and tarnish from inside the pores. All you need is an aluminum polish paste and a rag.

The surface may develop a patina over time, but will be less prone than it was before due to the surface being a bit smoother. I've noticed that a couple drops of oil I spilled on it wiped off much easier. Time will tell.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 06 September 2013, 10:03 PM
It's been a while since I have posted on here. I have been looking hard for a decent-paying job and have recently gone to a few job interviews. Apparently, the pay in Arizona is much lower than it was in Washington. At least the cost of living is much lower, as well. I did well on a few sales of wrecking yard parts, but these past couple of months have been so hot that I just couldn't make it out to the yards anymore without getting sick from the heat. Even though it's barely gotten hotter than 110F lately, the humidity has been up around 40-60% at times, which makes it feel much hotter.

I renewed the 300SD's registration and went in for my annual emissions test, and it passed--with a 3.1 opacity reading (permissible reading being 20.0). This is good considering the high mileage and the fact that I disabled the ALDA system. The 300SD has been driving well.

I picked up an armrest with a locking lid out of a W126 at the wrecking yard and decided I would install it in my vehicle. The color of the vinyl was wrong, but it was in good condition, so I decided I would buy a can of bamboo vinyl dye spray from World Upholstery.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-FHoVv8ZQQwc/UiqPtsa95-I/AAAAAAAAGTw/m1ncTKMlsDA/s800/1980300sd623.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-B5n001sZLTU/UiqP1iXEK1I/AAAAAAAAGUA/99DWgAqOzGA/s800/1980300sd625.JPG)

I thought the W116 and W126 seats would be close enough that the armrests would be interchangeable, but there were some differences. The shape of the mounting bracket of the W126 armrest installed on the W116 seat kicks it forward and makes it set up higher, but it actually looks good on the vehicle and is more comfortable. The W126 bracket also lacks the threaded insert where the retainer screw goes in, but it does have a cutout.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GXtD3Ynss6o/UiqPyY-_aOI/AAAAAAAAGT4/rCeJUpMl1xA/s800/1980300sd624.JPG)

I decided to remove the captive nut from the door of a Mercedes to put in the cutout on the bracket.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-PkVLtH2dsL4/UiqP4_gD2YI/AAAAAAAAGUI/FtUzCg7dB10/s800/1980300sd626.JPG)

It was a perfect fit, and still gave me room to put a wrench on the end to keep it from turning.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-dzRo6lTe-84/UiqP9HdZNzI/AAAAAAAAGUQ/fM-x7a7O-tI/s800/1980300sd627.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 07 September 2013, 12:18 AM
Once I had the mounting issue worked out, I removed the skins of the W126 armrest. Underneath was foam wrapped in plastic, most likely to make installing the skins easier.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Rc8Huc70Do8/UiqQACQJWrI/AAAAAAAAGUY/GAvAYfjO-ek/s800/1980300sd628.JPG)

The foam on the sides was a high-density rubber that held up well. The lid and lower edge were a different type of foam that shrunk and dissolved over the years, making for an uncomfortable resting surface.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-iO1oZgRCW-s/UiqQCxPcSPI/AAAAAAAAGUg/6NQKiz-BQ38/s800/1980300sd629.JPG)

I removed the disintegrated low-density foam and used some scrap padding left over from a headliner installation, applied with 3M high-heat adhesive spray.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ETRD9qyyFzk/UiqQF2ObV4I/AAAAAAAAGUo/AdkoUHy8lTE/s800/1980300sd630.JPG)

I left a gap on the sides so that the piping of the skins would have a place to fall. I wrapped the parts with stretch wrap to make installing the skins easier.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-SH4_SLjuKyY/UiqQH78aPiI/AAAAAAAAGUw/q92VPR855X4/s800/1980300sd631.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 07 September 2013, 12:43 AM
While the skins were off, I soaked them in a bucket of Simple Green, then scrubbed the surfaces with a brush. After this, I rinsed them and wiped off the surfaces with rubbing alcohol. The dye from World Upholstery came out with a lot of force, and it is rather thin, so I had to be careful to use quick motions to not let it run. Any small runs were wiped off with a towel. There were several bubbles that appeared, but when the dye dried, it came out nearly perfect. After it dried, it looked like the vinyl was originally bamboo in color. It is really amazing. It was definitely worth the money; not only for the quality of the dye, but also for the color match. I would be willing to use it to touch-up sunburned spots of the seats.

The W126 armrest was missing the cap on the side, and had no provisions for mounting one--so I removed the cap and bracket from another W126, and then used some hardware to make a way to mount the bracket for the cap. I attached a pair of hex key screws to the armrest with locknuts on the outside to prevent them from turning once I had the height adjusted.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cstbvhhpzwY/UiqQKxy1OuI/AAAAAAAAGU4/c5UC-lm_kJ4/s800/1980300sd632.JPG)

This allowed me to slide the cap bracket over the screw heads, and then rotate it. The cap itself snaps in and has holes in it which fit over the heads of the screws, thus locking the assembly in place.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KvHUB94BpEk/UiqQOKbUgAI/AAAAAAAAGVA/XFtrICEAlYo/s800/1980300sd633.JPG)

The color match is very good. The grain pattern of the vinyl is different, but the color is so close that it's not really noticeable.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UHTQL3t5dws/UiqQQ3S9cnI/AAAAAAAAGVI/sH26Y1wNC_g/s800/1980300sd634.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 07 September 2013, 01:28 AM
Here is the piece all put together. I am very happy with the results. Apparently, this was an accessory designed by Samuel W. Bird, Jr. (patent number US D291.206 S) to hold an automobile telephone: http://www.google.com/patents/USD291026 (http://www.google.com/patents/USD291026) . I have, indeed, seen some of these with the phone holder still in place. The company still exists as BIRD Automotive: http://www.birdautomotive.com/Armrests.htm (http://www.birdautomotive.com/Armrests.htm) . There is currently one for sale on ebay for $540: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-W126-560SEC-SEL-Palomino-leather-RARE-central-arm-rest-console-key-/290972255836?vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-W126-560SEC-SEL-Palomino-leather-RARE-central-arm-rest-console-key-/290972255836?vxp=mtr) .
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-vSavlyq2Cck/UiqQTNFSeHI/AAAAAAAAGVQ/pxl1uBykinA/s800/1980300sd635.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-hefyUHHk3vQ/UiqQVDZZnoI/AAAAAAAAGVY/9eqm_bMzmbg/s800/1980300sd636.JPG)

The latch mechanism is missing a ball bearing, spring, and set screw for one side. I located all missing parts except for the ball bearing. The large hardware stores like Lowe's and The Home Depot don't carry ball bearings. The only store that had them was Ace Hardware, but they did not stock the size I need. I went to a bicycle shop, thinking they would have them there since I was a manager and mechanic at a bicycle shop for three years, where we had several containers of ball bearings. There was no parking anywhere near the shop, so I had to pay to park in a building. When I got to the shop, there was a note on the door that said the owner was out to lunch, so I had to wait out in the heat. When the owner came back from lunch, another guy butted in front of me and I had to wait while the owner of the shop did a long repair on his bicycle. After finally being acknowledged, the owner told me he didn't have ball bearings, and that if he had any laying around, that he would have thrown them in the trash. He was totally arrogant and had poor customer service. So, I left and went to another bicycle shop, which ended up being someone's house. The owner was very nice, but he didn't have any bearings in the size I need, but he directed me to a ball bearing company. The ball bearing company did not have one in the size I need (probably metric), saying they only carry SAE, and that there is a minimum order of 1000 pieces. So, it looks like I will need to order one online.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-jJmwfDRSBxM/UiqQXyvqWqI/AAAAAAAAGVg/0AykJchtHRM/s800/1980300sd637.JPG)

The bolts going through the center were exposed, so I cut some 3/8" hose 7cm long to hide them.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-bbyu0UQsA-k/UiqQZxXcN9I/AAAAAAAAGVo/5oOdYQWUqHY/s800/1980300sd638.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 07 September 2013, 01:36 AM
Here is the armrest mounted. The captive nut that I used ended up sinking into the bracket, which held it from turning.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4v8Vu_Fuv50/UiqQclKCA-I/AAAAAAAAGVw/zpaIg18DIsM/s800/1980300sd639.JPG)

Because the armrest bracket is shaped differently, I had to cut a notch above the existing one in the cover. I will probably use a piece from a passenger seat at a later date so that the lower notch is not there.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MAShUekSzQ8/UiqQf-GtcwI/AAAAAAAAGV4/EXOuQuRs8yY/s800/1980300sd640.JPG)

Here is the cover installed with the skin reattached.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ym4ZT4vLssQ/UiqQiwTyQdI/AAAAAAAAGWA/NjMwNye5R2s/s800/1980300sd641.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 07 September 2013, 01:43 AM
The armrest looks like it could be original, and the storage space is very useful. I will need to have a key made for the lock. I would like to find another for my fintail wagon.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-E0TWUqu6o40/UiqQlHdvn_I/AAAAAAAAGWI/iMwKaLiWopU/s800/1980300sd642.JPG)

Now that I think of it, it could be a secure holder for my Walkman to keep it out of sight. The audio cord could be run through the grommet on the side.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-8rUYjgCLYX8/UiqQn3LT-rI/AAAAAAAAGWQ/zEY4gGG1fxc/s800/1980300sd643.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-NkEDV_Qr_eE/UiqQq4bWYvI/AAAAAAAAGWY/Vu4aSCM1txU/s800/1980300sd644.JPG)

It even folds up properly, though I will need to find a ball bearing so the latch stays closed. At least the lid falls on the bottom of the rear seat, which keeps it from damaging the hinges.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-2Z1Y_LGYNx8/UiqQtB_z9wI/AAAAAAAAGWg/ul7fYPHMcn4/s800/1980300sd645.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ICqSMp7SxOk/UiqQw9PkkZI/AAAAAAAAGWo/k_ZHWptx0m4/s800/1980300sd646.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: KenM on 07 September 2013, 04:11 AM
Another spectacular effort Squiggle, fantastic work there. The colour match is very impressive indeed, no way you could tell that it wasn't original. Looking good.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 10 September 2013, 01:15 AM
The right side A-pillar covering had been bothering me for a while, because it was damaged and sagging down. The screw holding it in at the bottom was stripped out and stuck, so I couldn't replace the covering. I finally decided to extract the screw using a good set of locking pliers. Someone had used non-hardening windshield sealant to hold it on up top, and it was a gooey mess that required much cleaning. I had a nice replacement piece that I installed.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-AFxnlFNIjXs/Ui6zVv0GK1I/AAAAAAAAGW4/y-l_P0tQYKk/s800/1980300sd647.JPG)

The plastic foot rest was broken and missing the carpet, but I happened to have an intact piece with the correct color carpet. The lower screw was rusted away, so I needed to extract it with locking pliers as well. It's a good thing I save as much hardware as possible when I go to the wrecking yards. They should make a reinforced version of these.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-pXNJ95zAaXk/Ui6zXzcaEsI/AAAAAAAAGXA/wcaRjVpjC6U/s800/1980300sd648.JPG)

I had the interior trim that goes under the rear windshield off when I had the tinting done, and the piece had been in the trunk all this time. I finally removed the vinyl, scrubbed and cleaned it up the best I could, then used 3M spray adhesive to reattach it to the metal frame. I then applied a liberal coating of 303 Aerospace Protectant.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fpnd61XNhgk/Ui6zaVun9HI/AAAAAAAAGXI/JNSHP5FWjEg/s800/1980300sd649.JPG)

I'm going to measure the ball bearing for the armrest latch with calipers to find a replacement for the missing ball. Hopefully I can find one somewhere on the internet. On another topic, I spent a couple of weeks doing almost nothing but dusting and scrubbing the house from floor to ceiling. The dirt back yard and having three dogs makes for a lot of dust in the house, and last year the pest control sprayed over all of the dust, making an oily, muddy mess all over the walls. So, I made sure the house was clean when I mixed up a high concentration of Cy-Kick CS and sprayed it all over in the house, as well as the outside yard. At first, I was still finding bugs and scorpions in the house, but they were dead. Now it has been weeks since I have seen any scorpions inside, or outside of the house. The stuff must work!
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Beastie on 10 September 2013, 01:21 AM
Nice job on the center armrest. Very tidy.  8)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 15 January 2014, 10:02 PM
You may have noticed that I went a few months without posting on here. I wasn't having success finding a decent job, so I started working for a temp agency that hires only drivers. I wasn't happy with the rate of pay, but I needed something to get me by until I found a job I could stick with. The agency sure kept me busy; work days were 11 hours on average. I was out as much as 14 hours some days (which is the legal limit for a CDL driver to be on the road). I started delivering and picking up book fairs at the schools, then was delivering freight for another company.

One of the assignments was driving a truck into California, swapping trucks with another driver, and delivering parts to the Mercedes-Benz dealerships in the Phoenix area, which typically took about 12 hours, night shift from 7 PM to about 7 AM. It was interesting being part of the process, and was the only assignment during which I felt the pay rate was fair. I really wish I could work it long-term instead of a day or two here and there (I was mainly filling in for a driver who would take days off).

My shifts often went back and forth between morning and night shift, which was difficult. I have hypersomnia, which means I need 10 hours of sleep at night to function. Once I get my 10 hours, my eyes pop open and I am wide awake and ready to go for the day. If I miss an hour or more, I am often sleepy all day and then the next night I have to sleep extra to make up for the sleep I lost. So, this robs a lot of time from my day, and many days I would wake up, go to work, then come home and go right to sleep again.

In one of the latest assignments, they put me on a bulk mail route for a mail processing center. It wasn't promising to start out with; the other driver and I were briefed on the job, and told that the previous drivers had been fired because they weren't up to the task; that they were late and spilling mail everywhere and couldn't handle it. We were told that timing was crucial, and that these are high profile customers. The other driver and I were told to drive around to the different businesses and record our times on a route sheet, then to return to the office. We did so, and got a phone call from dispatch partway through. The dispatcher was yelling at me, telling me that we were supposed to call in at each stop and give him the times (we did not hear him say that). He then said that we failed the first test. What a nice way to start out a job...

I was originally told that the assignment was supposed to be 7 hours a day. Then I was told it would take 9 hours. 9 hours was their wishful thinking. In reality, it took no less than 11 hours if I rushed. There was no time included for doing a pre-trip inspection of the truck, filling out my logbook, loading the truck with equipment, and then driving out to the processing center. As soon as I would get to there, the manager would be in my face trying to rush me out of there. What made it worse is that the schedule had totally unrealistic time frames. For example, it gave 20 minutes to arrive at the processing center, unload a full truckload of mail, reload with supplies, and then drive out to the next stop--when the distance between between the processing center and the next stop can't possibly be driven in less than 35 minutes in ideal traffic conditions! Unloading and loading easily takes an additional hour. At one stop, they had me scheduled to arrive at 2:20 PM, when the business closes at 2:30 PM! There is no way I can arrive on time there ever, let alone get that truck unloaded with supplies and reloaded in just 10 minutes! Half the time their pallets wouldn't be ready, and I would have to stretch wrap 6 pallets for them, even though the drivers aren't supposed to do that.

Part of the job was pushing metal cages full of mail that weigh about 1,200 lbs into the truck. At some stops, the truck was backed downhill into the dock, which meant all of the cages had to be pushed uphill. A full truckload of them takes a lot work and time to load. There could be as many as 12 cages in the truck, plus several pallets, and this would require proper heavy-duty straps to secure the load. Unfortunately, the company did not provide straps, and the trucks weren't even equipped with E-tracks for straps! All that were provided were friction-mount load bars which could not handle that much weight. Since day one, I told the company that the provided equipment was inadequate. Every day the load bars would fall down and the load would slide in the back of the truck and jam the rear door, despite how carefully I drove. After nearly a week of asking for straps every day and getting told "we are buying them today" but never actually getting them, the load bars snapped in half and three of the full cages fell over inside the truck, scattering mail all over. Of course, I got blamed for "not securing the load". So, I called the company and told them that there is a situation, and that I need those straps to do the job safely. I also called the temp agency and let them know that the company is not complying with safety.

Only after having an incident, did the company finally get straps. Of course, they were a total joke, and were the cheapest 1" straps that they must have got from Harbor Freight. They were way undersized and wouldn't even stay hooked on the side rails. I told the company that these new straps wouldn't work, and that I needed ratcheting 2" heavy-duty straps like I requested. Their response was that they looked at the ones I wanted, but they were "too expensive". $19 each is too expensive to secure a several thousand pound load on wheels when you just won a new contract and are trying to prove yourself? So, I used them, doubled up with the load bars, and they broke the first day, which caused the load bars to snap in half. Finally, after more disasters, proper straps were invested in.

Working for up to 13 hours a day, rushing at full speed and nearly injuring myself, getting a phone call from the manager at nearly every stop telling me to hurry up, getting chastised when I returned, having zero time for a food or bathroom break, always feeling like a failure, and working for just above minimum wage got to be too much. No matter how much I rushed, I was always behind schedule. Whenever my bladder was about to burst, and I would try to take a bathroom break, the manager would follow me and would tell me to get my butt out of there because I had work to do. All I ever heard from him was, "Hurry up!" I probably lost 10 lbs from just not eating, because there was no time to. When I would get home, I would usually fall right asleep.

After a couple of weeks of being on the job and nearly walking off, I started feeling more and more uncontrollable rage and requested for the temp agency to take me off of the assignment. I told them that this wasn't working out and was totally unrealistic. Apparently, the other driver felt the same way and was also complaining about the job. The agency wanted me to work a few more days until they could find a replacement. I reluctantly agreed. The next day, the company had me train one of its own drivers. So, he rode with me on my route one day, and then the next day he didn't show up for work, which meant I had to train someone else. In my mind, I was jokingly thinking, "Where is that son of a B, I'll kill him!" I worked a few more days, and after being strung along without a replacement to train, I said, "forget this" and called in to tell the temp agency I would not be going in the next morning and shut off my phone (which incidentally, was my first cell phone ever, and it was costing me 25 cents a minute, so I was spending about $10 a day on work-related phone calls that I didn't anticipate).

A few days later, the other driver called me on my land line to let me know that she was sick and pleaded with me to fill in for her that day. So, I was nice and drove her route for her. By the end of the day, I felt like I was going to go postal. I got put back on the Mercedes-Benz assignment for a couple days, but then was told that the other driver quit, and that her replacement also quit, so I was pulled off of the assignment and put back on the stupid mail route. Not only did I have a bad day, but the transmission in the truck went out, so I had to unload the truck, wait for the replacement truck to arrive, then load the replacement truck. Once I had the replacement truck loaded, I realized the truck had no rails for straps. So, I had to have someone from the company come out to deliver the loathed load bars. By this time, the manager was having a fit and told me to just get back to the processing center. I barely got out of the parking lot before I heard a WHAM! and realized that the load bars must have fallen down. I pulled over at the next parking lot, opened the back of the truck, and sure enough the load bars had fallen down, and the cages were all over the place and jammed against each other. After putting them back in place and securing the load bars extra tight, I drove off and when I got on the freeway onramp, I heard another, "Roll, roll, roll, THUD!" At this point, I didn't care, and just continued on to the processing center. When I got to the dock, I couldn't get the door to open, and could see that it was cracked. I had to get a forklift to pull the door open. The cages were tipped over, but I didn't care anymore. The manager was yelling at me, and I just ignored him. I knew I would not be coming in the next day. When the day was over, I called in and let the temp agency know that I would not be going in the next day and shut off my phone.

Right now, I am taking a break from work. It seems that in a work environment, everyone is against me, and it's so hard to find one that pays anything decent and won't work you over 10 hours a day. I also miss having time to draw and play music. I want to be an artist and musician, but it's so hard to balance between it and work. I did take a little extra money and finally took my violin into a repair shop so I can start playing it again. I am probably going to start selling junkyard Mercedes parts on eBay again until I find a job that pays well and doesn't overwork me. I can't believe how low the CDL jobs around here pay, but I guess it's better than making minimum wage. I am also doing restoration work on my roommate's 1965 W111 220S. The interior is mostly done, and I am currently replacing the head gasket and doing a valve job.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 15 January 2014, 10:35 PM
The 300SD has been driving well during this time. The only thing that has really gone wrong is that I ran over a screw and got a flat tire. But, I was able to repair the tire with a plug kit that I already had. Despite how much I've been working, I haven't really had any money to spend on my car, but I did find a really good deal on a wooden cup holder. I couldn't pass it up for $10, and it is a perfect fit. I can also pull it out if I need to use the console.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-alrgta-4W54/UmiFK-sFmAI/AAAAAAAAGXY/DKpO046muYI/s800/1980300sd650.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FU4HBvjxKJg/UmiFM_GvOSI/AAAAAAAAGXg/2x2CpmcmslA/s800/1980300sd651.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-eWad7nYCOvo/UmiFOruvfjI/AAAAAAAAGXo/-x0iv0AafhI/s800/1980300sd652.JPG)

I could not locate a ball bearing locally that would fit the latch for my armrest lid. Apparently, 5.5mm (7/32") ball bearings are an uncommon size. I had to buy a quantity on eBay. I found the missing spring, and the hardware store had some set screws that fit on each end. So, I was able to repair the latch and it now functions properly.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-K2-O1WoSWG4/UtcrPeN_N_I/AAAAAAAAGZE/wlrzKKUbL1c/s800/1980300sd653.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: polymathman on 16 January 2014, 03:16 AM
Wow - that really sucks! Here in northern West Virginia they have all kind of signing bonuses for CDL's. They get paid a lot of money! And they have to teat them well, because there is always another employer looking for drivers.

REALLY like the idea of the armrest storage, but it's too rich for my blood.

When I was in the long, hot, difficult job of putting a new roof on my back building and garage, I would occasionally stop and imagine pulling my 280SE into the garage, turning off the key, and starting to do the rebuild on the head. Well, now I'm up to my elbows in grease and parts are everywhere, And my wife keeps commenting on the big stupid grin. Worked for me.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: adamb on 16 January 2014, 03:31 AM
Squiggle,

That was a very interesting post about your truck driving jobs. You are having to work hard to make ends meet and it's commendable. I'd like to say that I won't put up with bull from a manager but in reality it is truly difficult when you need the income. I won't be issuing any advice because I am sure that you know all the answers yourself, so good luck with finding a reasonably paid assignment you can tolerate.

Best wishes,
Adam
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Casey on 18 January 2014, 08:21 AM
Sorry to hear about your luck. I've been well on the job front but very stressed otherwise - my significant other has been diagnosed with a fairly rare, tenacious, and unfortunately pretty developed type of cancer so trying to help her has become my only real concern. I've barely kept my primary car in repair (replaced failed blower motor after freezing while driving for a while, replacing all brake pads and a leaking caliper, replacing a rim, rotor, and damaged caliper after my driver rear wheel flew off while driving down the freeway (I always used a torque wrench to MB specs, but now am over tightening a bit as a result)), and the other cars have just become an unnecessary burden I don't have time or money for. I'm stuck in the middle of a long lease on the warehouse, and that's probably the only reason I haven't just eBay-or-junked the whole lot to save the rent expense for more important things (am still a bit tempted to do that anyways and bail on the lease despite consequences that would follow). I find it extremely difficult to focus on my work as well, though I realize it is very important as without that, I have no resources.

Life can be a b***h sometimes and the only certainty about material life is uncertainty. These sorts of times however can serve to remind us to not think too much of it - I think what matters more is spiritual. Things can always be, and one day probably will be worse on the material front. Nonetheless, I wish you better times and luck! Glad the car is still serving you well!
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 18 January 2014, 02:31 PM
Thanks for the responses. It's nice to have a community here where I can speak my mind and vent a little.

Casey, I noticed you hadn't been posting here in a while, and wondered how you have been doing. I can see that you have been going through a really tough time, as well. I hope that your significant other's health improves.

If you decide to liquidate your W116 collection, hopefully you'll be able to sell the cars and parts and get them to good homes. I imagine it's hard to focus on when you're dealing with what you're going through.

Well, I'm off to work. The temp agency called me on an assignment to deliver Honda parts at the last minute, so I've got to go in ASAP.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: KenM on 20 January 2014, 06:48 AM
Hey Squiggle, your work situation there certainly sounds like it sucked big ones, you would hope it was an isolated incident but who knows? I don't know much about trucking in general but here they are always going on about unrealistic delivery schedules for drivers, and the fact that they have to falsify log books, skip breaks etc to achieve a schedule. Time is money but how far can it be pushed?
Hope you find a better situation soon. Above all stay safe.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: littlefin on 28 January 2014, 05:33 PM
Hey SD
Sorry to hear your recent employment experience has been so stressful. How do you get on with the guys at the agency? In my experience, the new employees tend to get given the worst jobs, so if you stick at it a while maybe you'll get some better assignments. That mail job sounds really sh*tty. I've done various delivery jobs over the years, but that one sounds truly grim. The auto part delivery jobs sound like a much better bet.

Take some time to do the stuff you want to do. The art and music are good for your soul, and working those long days can really bend you out of shape. Make sure to eat and drink regularly if you are working that hard physically.

I'm sure things will work out for you in the long run. in the meantime, take care of yourself  ;)

PS I Really like your wooden cup holder  8)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 26 April 2014, 11:03 PM
The job situation hasn't been much better. I've applied for several jobs, but have only had a few interviews. The interviews seemed to go well, but I didn't hear anything back. The Class B CDL jobs don't seem to pay much above minimum wage, so I am thinking about just working in a warehouse or production line for minimum wage, just as long as I don't have to work more than 8 hours a day. I've even considered selling my car and just finding a nearby job to where I can ride my bicycle. I just feel like I'm never going to earn a good living ever again.

I finally got my violin back from the luthier after he gave me story after story and stalled for months. I told him that I wasn't happy with his constant rescheduling and excuses. Then after I got home, I realized that he still has part of my violin case there. He rarely responds when I call, and then he says he will look for it and then never gets back to me. I am using a different guy next time. But, I am practicing 2 hours a day in hopes that I'll someday be able to make money as a performing artist.

In the meantime, I've been selling wrecking yard Mercedes parts trying to get by. Though, rent is coming up in a few days and I have nothing. I have another Mercedes friend who was nice enough to ship me some parts to sell for him to split the profit on, and who also loaned me some money so I could buy food for my dogs. I've been riding my bicycle as much as possible so I don't have to buy fuel. I had $8 left on one credit card and attempted to buy a 12-pack of pita bread for $2.99 at Costco so I could have it with some hummus I have at the house, but they don't take credit cards, debit only, so I had to put it back. I might have to start looking under drive-through windows for change again. Haha.

I've also been working on trying to collect from the lawsuit I won for the carrier that damaged my 300SD and my roommate's 1965 Ford when they were being transported from Washington, and then the driver abandoned them on the side of the road and they were sent to a storage yard where hundreds of dollars in fees were accrued. I sent a letter of collection to the owner, and now he is declaring Chapter 7 bankruptcy, so he will probably get away with it, even though I spent hundreds of my own dollars filing the lawsuit.

The injectors in the 300SD had been nailing for a while, and sometimes it would run a bit rough at idle. It started to get pretty bad, and I noticed smoking which wasn't there before. I drove out to get some packing material and the car was idling so rough that the whole car was shaking. When I got near the house, it stalled. It barely limped back to the house, and when I moved it later on, it would smoke a lot and barely move under its own power. At this point, it was no longer drivable.

Fortunately, I had a set of 5 used injectors that I removed from a 300SD in a wrecking yard a few years ago. I got them because they looked like they were almost new. I removed the injectors from my 300SD and looked at them. It looks like they are cratered and probably just worn out after 320,000 miles of use.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ziODLBXRX_M/U0YTkpZKstI/AAAAAAAAGus/8MfhJBmge6s/s800/1980300sd655.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-9Kr-ZN9Bb3g/U0YTnvuHg4I/AAAAAAAAGu0/PnigWYJg43Q/s800/1980300sd656.JPG)

I did some research and discovered that the spare injectors I had were remanufactured at some point because of the rubber band on them that reads NA31X. The "X" means rebuilt. Apparently, when Bosch rebuilds injectors, they do it in bulk and they get all mixed up, so an injector that used to have one part number will end up being rebuilt to possibly be a different part, so the rubber band covers up the old part number. The bottoms of the spare injectors looked much better than the ones that were in my car. But, just to be safe, I took them in to be tested at a Bosch facility.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aFZxySSNsDw/U0YTqErE4PI/AAAAAAAAGu8/2K9yAe75uCE/s800/1980300sd657.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-w2puntres_A/U0YTuw9-mcI/AAAAAAAAGvM/wH24BKi8IGM/s800/1980300sd658.JPG)

I dropped off the injectors at the Bosch facility as they test them for free. I wanted to know in what condition both sets were, and what the pop pressures and spray patterns were like. The shop said they would call me in the morning when they were done. 3 PM came the next day and I didn't hear back from the shop, so I called them and asked if they had been tested. The person on the phone said yes, and that all of the injectors failed. So, I went to the shop and asked them what the pop pressures and spray patterns were. They had no data for me, only that "they failed". I humored the shop with a rebuild estimate, and they wanted $500 to rebuild them! Then they wanted $77.10 for just the heat shields. Luckily, I already had a set I got for $7.20 from an online vendor. When the time comes, I am probably going to rebuild my old ones with Monark nozzles. The shop was nice enough to give me a bottle of diesel fuel system cleaner and cetane booster.

While the injectors were out, I did a test to see if my glow plugs still work.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GNTnb_RUInw/U0YT07vxlfI/AAAAAAAAGvU/bZ_m6yGMZic/s800/1980300sd659.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 26 April 2014, 11:31 PM
When I removed the injectors, I carefully pulled off the Viton return hoses and luckily didn't break any, as they are the only biodiesel-resistant hoses on the whole car, and I don't have spares. I've been using B99 biodiesel in my car for 4 years on the old rubber hoses and still don't have any leaks, oddly enough. So, I was able to reuse the return hoses when I installed the spare injectors. I figure that my spares have to be better than what was in there before, even if they only get me by for a while.

While the injectors were out, I attempted to advance the injection pump to 26BTDC for a slight performance increase. The pump was set one degree retarded from specs at 23BTDC, but it was nearly maxed out to where I could only move it to the factory spec of 24BTDC. I would have to remove the pump and install it off one tooth to get enough travel to get the 26BTDC that I wanted. At least I know the pump is now timed correctly.

I took this opportunity to replace my old, nasty injector hard lines that were missing the clamps...
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-_UufyUBmMak/U0YTfyyuDtI/AAAAAAAAGuk/-fA0ZsuC6B4/s800/1980300sd654.JPG)

...with a spare set I collected a few years back. The engine looks SO much better, though it took a lot of bending to get the lines to fit.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mqYoO4rMUM8/U0YT3aMjI8I/AAAAAAAAGvc/WlNQ5YkTq1o/s800/1980300sd660.JPG)

After installing the injectors, the engine idles great and the car runs well. However, it smokes a little bit, which I don't like. I think these injectors are probably worn, but they are at least an improvement over what was in there. So, my car is saved once again due to hoarding spare parts.

I drove to The UPS Store to ship some parts I sold, and noticed when I came out that my car smelled like biodiesel. When I got back to the house, I saw a trail of fluid going from the garage door down the driveway, so apparently I had been leaking for a while.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-THnYA_tpsUk/U1yF_FZwh0I/AAAAAAAAGyM/gmtO-XQJiL4/s800/1980300sd662.JPG)

I got in the garage and opened the hood. I saw fuel squirting out of one of the injector return hoses and the whole engine compartment was covered with biodiesel. I pulled off the leaking return hose, and saw that it had split. So, I cut it down and reused it. So far, so good. Then I did a cleaning of the engine compartment to remove all of the biodiesel.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-TNPXEjFody8/U1yGCw56DwI/AAAAAAAAGyc/15XvcJs5xUI/s800/1980300sd664.JPG)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: KenM on 27 April 2014, 03:20 AM
Hey Squiggle,

Still no good news on the job front, at least you are somewhere the sun is shining and you don't have to pay for heating, hope things get better soon. I'm impressed as ever with your skills at keeping this car running, I'm a bit of a hoarder too and keep all sorts of stuff for Justin. (case). I'm pretty new to diesels with the 300TD being my first diesel so I'm learning a fair bit about them. What do you mean with the term 'nailing'?, this I don't understand. I too found that if you even touch the return line hoses from the injectors you can forget about them ever sealing again, they split inside with the heat and when you move them they will never seal, even if you chop a bit off. I'm looking for the correct new hose at the moment. I have read nothing good about Bosch nozzles, especially the rebuilt ones, they can be pretty hit and miss from all accounts. Hope things improve for you soon on the job front mate.
Cheers,
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 27 April 2014, 11:38 AM
The term "nailing" means a metallic sound coming from the injectors, indicating that the internal parts are getting sloppy, I suppose. When this happens, there is a poor spray pattern, and the injectors are probably no longer balanced--which makes each cylinder get different amounts of combustible fuel. I am happy that this repair cost me nothing.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: gavin116 on 27 April 2014, 12:53 PM
Hi Squiggle Dog


It never ceases to surprise me how such a simple thing such as changing the injector hard lines can so transform an engine bay!  Pity that the injectors are playing up.  I suppose they are pricey to replace, unlike the ones in my k-jet car which have no moving parts (and even then they weren't cheap).


Have you ever considered seeking employment at a car restoration or detailing shop?  Judging from all the work you have completed on your car, I would say any car business would be glad to have you on board.


Keep positive,


Gavin
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 18 February 2017, 12:21 PM
I haven't been active on the internet for a very long time. Back in April 2016 I got a job driving a tanker truck for a propane company. It's been a good job but I've been working every waking hour of the week and then sleeping all weekend. My personal life has really suffered. I've been neglecting my 300SD as I've done next to no repairs or maintenance on it. I've been using it to commute about 2 hours a day. It still has no air conditioning, and after working in 110-120 degree F days filling propane tanks, driving home that long of a distance is brutal. I think that the only work I've done on the car in a year is an oil change, I rigged some jumper wires (which started smoking) so the fan blower would work again, and replaced the windshield wipers because the 6 year old Bosch ones finally wore out after 2 years of heavy Washington weather use, and 4 years of being in the Arizona sun.

I've been wondering how in the world people can work full-time and still have time at the end of the day for other activities. I literally have to go to sleep as soon as I get home, and I am still sleep-deprived during the day.  At my last job, I attributed it to working nights and always being on-call. At the job before that, I blamed it on alternating days and nights and always being on-call. At the job prior to that one, I had no issue because I only worked 4 hours a day, 20 days a week--but I still occasionally took naps in the afternoon. Before this, I could rarely keep a job because I would get so burned out and sleepy that I would either quit or get fired for showing up late or not at all. In high school. I slept through my classes and would take a nap when I got home. I felt that it was due to stress. In fact, since I was a baby, I've needed lots of sleep. But people said that it was just because I was growing, and would grow out of it.

I finally have medical insurance, so I went to the doctor for the first time since I was a child. I had my thyroid tested, and a full blood panel to see if I had any deficiencies. All tests came back in the normal range. Then I had a sleep study where they hooked up electrodes and monitored my sleep to check for sleep apnea. They woke me up after 7 hours and the results were normal. Then I had another sleep study done where they monitored my sleep, woke me up after 7 hours, then had me take a series of daytime naps. The results from that test also came back normal. Then I saw a sleep specialist and kept a 2-week sleep diary. The specialist said that because my sleep study results were normal, she can't officially give me a diagnosis, but she says that functionally I have idiopathic hypersomnia. She said the term they used to use was "long sleeper" but it was done away with.

If I sleep 12 hours each day, I feel rested, energetic, and alert all day. If I get less than this, I feel drowsy. The specialist told me that each person needs different amounts of sleep to regenerate. For most people it's 7. For some people, like my roommate, it's 3. I happen to be part of the less than 1% of the population that needs an unusually high amount. I was told that there is no cure. The only thing she can do is mask the problem with stimulants so that I wake up faster in the morning and so I am more alert during the day since I am not able to get 12 hours of sleep a day since some days I work 15 hours plus a 2 hour commute.

I feel like I am a danger to myself and others at work. I drive a tanker truck carrying propane and usually feel drowsy. Sometimes I fall asleep when I'm driving it but I catch myself. Then on the weekend I've slept as much as 22 hours in one day to make up for all the lost sleep. I worked so hard to get this job and good jobs are hard to find. Most people work full-time, and still have time for a family, hobbies, and maybe a second job. I can't even handle one full-time job.

The treatment options were as follows 1. amphetamines (prescription form of meth), but they are dangerous and addictive, plus I would be disqualified from having a CDL, 2. provigil, which is safer but still has bad side effects like increased blood pressure, mood changes, and dizziness, and 3. xyrem (the date rape drug) which might put me in deep sleep faster to try to make the most of my sleeping hours.

I am going to try provigil, option 2, even though I don't like taking medication. But at least I can say I tried it. The specialist told me that she doesn't want me taking it on the weekend because I'll need to sleep all weekend in order to catch up on sleep I missed during the week and regenerate. The provigil won't help me regenerate and if I don't catch up on the missed sleep, my body will deteriorate.

The specialist recommends that people like me either only work part time or own their own business. I just won't be able to accomplish as much during the day as a normal person. I have to choose between financial stability but having no free time, or poverty in order to have time to have a life. I'm going to try to get my employer to schedule me as part-time, but I might lose my benefits, so that is a concern. But I really, really need to get my life back so I can repair my car, take care of my household, and have hobbies again.

So, there is my explanation as to why I haven't been around.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: daantjie on 18 February 2017, 12:25 PM
Hang in there brother. Take care of yourself first. The Benz will be waiting for you ;)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Peter on 18 February 2017, 04:35 PM
Sorry to hear about this Squiggle and as Dan says the Benz along with the good people of this forum will be here for you. Meanwhile please have a read of this link as there is progress on your condition and some more sophisticated drug treatments available that have far better results and far fewer side effects. http://www.nodss.org.au/ih.html

Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 18 February 2017, 06:57 PM
Thanks, guys. Peter, I forgot to mention that another reason I don't officially have hypersomnia is because technically people with hypersomnia are sleepy all the time no matter how much they sleep. I feel fully rested if I get a consistent 12 hours every day. That's the difference. If provigil doesn't work so well, it looks like there may be more options to try as the treatment is the same.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: beagle2022 on 18 February 2017, 09:20 PM
Hang in there mate.  This whole "being mortal" thing is a real inconvenience!  You have to work with the cards you've been dealt.  Your diesel Merc is indestructible, you're not.  Sounds like you've got some good medical advice.  I agree with the earlier comment that you have a natural calling to car resto.  More fun than a truck!
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: wbrian63 on 22 February 2017, 08:52 AM
I was diagnosed with hypersomnia about 7 years ago. I took Provigil for a while, and now I'm on Nuvigil - the replacement for Provigil when the patent ran out. I never had any problem with Provigil side effects. My hypersomnia was in conjunction with a mild case of sleep apnea, for which they prescribed the use of a C-Pap machine. Unfortunately, I had problems with recurring bronchitis due to the machine, as well as not feeling like I slept any better with the machine than without.

For years prior to that (>10) I had trouble with daytime sleepiness. I didn't sleep worth a hoot at night - constantly tossing and turning, waking up at the slightest noise. Most days, the alarm clock was a welcome relief as it signaled that it was OK to get out of bed and start the day. Some nights, I'd give up trying to sleep around 2am and just go to work - this after going to bed at 11-ish....

I had the nighttime sleep study with the follow up daytime sleep study performed, and while I slept well with the C-pap (according to the charts), I failed miserably during the daytime tests. I studied really hard and still failed :(  The longest it took me to fall back asleep during the 4 daytime tests was 2 minutes - the shortest was 17 seconds. Each time the tech would wake me up my response was "I'm not asleep."

The "good" side of being diagnosed is that I now have a documented medical condition that I have conveyed to my employer. As a result, they're aware of my condition and don't seek to discipline me for occasional drop-offs at my desk. I work in IT, so staring at a pair of "TV Monitors" all day long can be nod-inducing. I tell my co-workers if they approach my cube and I appear to be asleep, don't act any different - just ask me the question you were going to ask and I'll reboot and answer easily. It's kinda spooky - I'm "out" for all outward appearances, but I still hear what's going on around me.

As for Nuvigil side effects - I've not noticed any. It was recently made available as a generic, which has made a big difference in my out-of-pocket expenses. 90-days costs me $15 with my prescription drug benefit (through mail-order). Before that I was paying $175 for a 90 day supply (employer's share was >$600!!!)

The only problem I experience is than it ruins my ability to take a restful afternoon nap on the weekends.

Good luck - the right meds will hopefully solve your problem.

One other thing - seek to make your bedroom a haven. No outside light if at all possible. Needs to be a real cave. Some people sleep better with it very cool - supposedly 65-68f is the best, but that always gives me a stuffy nose. I like mid 70's with a ceiling fan on reverse to stir the air and without blowing directly on me. If there are outside noises, seek to reduce their intrusion with a white-noise generator, or some peaceful music played low. An oscillating fan is a good source of white noise. Just point it where it doesn't blow on you (or let it blow on you, if you like a breeze) and figure out what speed gives enough white noise without being disturbing. A good mattress, high quality sheets (buy the highest thread-count you can justify - it does make a difference), good pillows (they don't last, just expect to replace them every 6 months or so) and proper sleeping clothes. You need to make sure that every moment you are in bed is tailored to getting maximum rest. If there are too many outside noises, you might try getting some cheap moving blankets (Harbor freight is a reasonable source) and hanging them on the walls - not to great for winning decoration awards, but they're dense and might help limit outside noise intrusion. The window will be the biggest source of outside noises. A couple of blankets will go along way to limiting the noise and provide the benefit of stopping light intrusion.

All the best from another hypersomniac...
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 01 April 2017, 12:53 PM
I tried the Provigil--the side effects were not good and I got a rash from it. The sleep technician said that I would also be allergic to Nuvigil and is out of treatment options. I was recommended to either work only part-time or apply for disability. Either way, I put in my two months' notice with my employer as the hours are too many and I'm a hazard to myself and others.

I have decided to stop putting money into my W116 and will put it up for sale after my job ends. I'm still driving it to work about 2 hours a day. It's very dependable and mechanically sound. It needs door dings removed and paint among other cosmetic things. It's a very unique car the way it is, but I would probably do better removing some of the extras and selling them separately. Then I call sell off a storage unit full of W116 parts that I've been keeping as spares that's been costing me $115 a month.

I'll be able to use one of my roommate's cars and might get a W111 that I can tinker with and put an OM617 engine into. I'd fix up my 1967 Universal wagon, but it's too rusty and not structurally sound, but I would at a later date cut off the special wagon-specific pieces and graft them onto the sedan as the coachbuilder did.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 03 December 2017, 02:45 PM
Due to the length of this thread and the long pause since the last post, I am starting a second part here: https://forum.w116.org/test-drive/my-custom-1980-300sd-project-part-2/ (https://forum.w116.org/test-drive/my-custom-1980-300sd-project-part-2/) .