I used genuine Mercedes trailing arm bushings, which are now a 126 part number made by Boge, replacing the 123 part number originals which were made by Phoenix. I got the old ones out by using a socket over the fat end of the bushings and improvising a puller with a bolt, washers, and a nut. The new ones went in with a yoke remover tool against the eyelet of the trailing arm with a rubber oil filler cap gasket in between to prevent chipping the paint.

After the end of the bushing would bottom out against the yoke puller, I would add a socket to give it clearance to go in the rest of the way.

I didn't know what kind of lubricant to use to get them in place. The Mercedes sliding fluid recommended is very expensive at about $57 a tube. I didn't want to use a grease (especially not a petroleum-based one, which I don't use anyway) as I didn't want to risk having the bushings rotating inside the eyelets, though they are a tight fit. As I was doing research, dish soap was recommended as it's slippery at first and is supposed to dry out afterward. Then I read that WD-40 was even better, didn't contain petroleum, and dried with no residue. Lots of people were recommending it, so I took their advice, happy to have finally found a use for the stuff.

Now that I've used WD-40 to install the trailing arm bushings on my car, it turns out it DOES attack rubber because it contains hydrocarbons and petroleum. It uses capillary action to open up pores and cracks, penetrates, causes the rubber to swell, and then dry rot.
WD-40's USA website says it's safe to use on rubber and recommends it as a rubber dressing and using on door seals (they lie).
https://www.wd40.com/uses-tips/automotive-repair/keeps-weather-stripping-and-rubber-car-door-seals-soft-and-prevents-drying-and-cracking Their Australian website cautions against using it on rubber.
http://www.wd40.com.au/faqs/wd-40-safe-used-rubber/In the end, there are many reports of it damaging plastic and rubber parts. Obviously, some types more than others (natural EPDM rubber being one). So much for all the posts of people saying WD-40 is the best thing to use to install rubber suspension bushings as it "is safe for rubber and fully evaporates". I hope I didn't shorten the performance and lifespan of mine, and will be sure to keep WD-40 away from my car. I suppose it's dish soap for the rest of the bushings I will install.
I'm happy with how the differential turned out. The rear wheel bearing sockets are a perfect fit to act as plugs for the side seals.

The CVJ axle shafts are painted and it is necessary to strip the paint off of the seal surface and shaft that goes inside the differential. They install new spacer rings for a fresh seal surface; the surface on my old axles had deep grooves worn in them and they would no doubt have leaked. I failed to strip the paint off of the shaft and one side got stuck in the differential and wouldn't budge in either direction. I carefully tried prying out the axle but ended up bending the lip of the can, much to my frustration. So, I tried tapping in the axle shaft with a rubber mallet, and it didn't budge. So, then I hit the end of the axle shaft with a sledge hammer to try to force it in, and it wouldn't budge. Finally, I was able to fit a small square file into the opening on the other side of the differential and was able to tap the axle shaft back out and then strip off the paint; after which it went in without trouble (after straightening the lip and doing some paint touch-up). However, the circlips that hold the axle shafts in place seem to be worn, one side more than the other, and they are a loose fit, so I ordered new ones which should hopefully circumvent needing to replace the spacer washers.
