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Garage => Test Drive => Topic started by: Squiggle Dog on 03 December 2017, 10:14 AM

Title: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 03 December 2017, 10:14 AM
This is a continuation of this thread: https://forum.w116.org/test-drive/my-custom-1980-300sd-project/ (https://forum.w116.org/test-drive/my-custom-1980-300sd-project/) which documents the refurbishment, maintenance, and mild customization of a daily driver 1980 Mercedes-Benz W116 300SD. I am resuming progress on the vehicle after taking a long pause during which I was working many hours while suffering from a life-long sleeping disorder that makes working full time impractical. I am once again unemployed and now have time to work on the car again. Despite a long period of no maintenance and a 2+ hour commute each day in brutal Arizona heat, it didn't let me down.

Since my last post, I attempted to seal up some leaks in the transmission. My 722.120 transmission had leaking piston cover O-rings, even though I have paperwork showing it was rebuilt in 1991. I read that while it is possible to replace the O-rings in the B2 and B3 piston covers simply by pressing in with your hands, the spring pressure in the B1 piston cover is too great.

A special factory tool is recommended my Mercedes, but the transmission must be removed from the vehicle since it takes a lot of room, and there is only 70mm (3") of clearance between the transmission and the tunnel. I have heard that it may be possible to use this tool with the transmission still in place if the exhaust pipe and driveshaft are removed, and then the transmission is lowered down as far as it will go. This is a lot of work.

I don't have a lift and doing the above would have been difficult. Feeling that I'd rather just pay someone else to do it, I called an independent Mercedes-Benz repair shop asking how much it would cost. The shop said that it would be too difficult for them to do, and they referred me to a place that specializes in German transmissions. I called the transmission shop, and the mechanic said that he wouldn't do the job without completely removing the transmission from the vehicle. This would have been expensive and would have put me without a car for a few days.

So, I decided to make a tool that would allow me to replace all of the piston O-rings with the transmission still in place and without having to lower it or remove any other parts, because that is just too much work.
CAUTION: If you make your tool any less stout than I have made mine, it will probably fail and you will not be able to finish the job. Use your ingenuity and good judgment.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hQNQLlEynV14beNhSaN2t0n3p-TfUEmUzHltiV0aPgDVd8BC24rpTd5VXp8pLaKO6xsYSIivEBVsAdFHu4yZWof_UdgQ1hMVFamig4G9trzoobXSUGcwVCT6zgPnE3rAVE3XICwP89PRoR2jwaYQXsT_wKIgQPXeKQ8VCnmVrUyhuzQjXJMa7CGJ6W5pEM_Gw7j4hnEgb5DMYeXSC2n8UZgN2mNyxCUjmIA3-8mXt0Yw8F7FcifEL6E286lJj_Ekj6aFcSGLKSchlQcFzjPLO1VVBjm3Sy4rxTl6jLLuIGHuzQt3ekz4JmR0JBMu259wB5XMM73oADgV1h57zRuoXzx_HaccQeVYMTApwMYvfg2p1GJ3aFg9dPmDBwTO3peDQERIjO3RA7piT5mCDz3enezQjW_GahHvD5w8QRESpcFZU51TXFR4vjbQ4LgHW6CwESsmwMDQ7Omn5gtmcGy3Xn7zMA2okqyEm8b8ASx_5VDMj2KSIFTx830irATKON_THOzU5Ingm3GV_Zt3AqQumRN2Xkn5Zr3D3db4YwOb_I6Oxu87fV6eWyWHEytOC1sTTai9APB4EqkrPr_GVjsuF-9H0PbxvI9O0zWjKsxplXMMoeYd2d4AGcQYPoEeKouc11innzi91rlWxnQtxMPnC5td4wOcsU4Jqlo=w800-h600-no)

I bought 3/4" hollow square steel tubing at my local hardware store. Solid aluminum bar would work as well, but it is harder to find. You need at least 14" of it--more if you make a mistake. I cut the long piece to the length of the transmission (235mm), and the short piece 120mm.

I got some 30mm long bolts the same thread pitch as the ones for the transmission pan and drilled a couple holes for them in the tubing. The holes need to be offset all the way against the edge on one side. This is to clear the valve body, and you may still need to grind a little material away at one edge (it starts at about 80mm in from the right side to about 90mm in, if you look at the picture above). The center of the bolt hole on the left side is 12mm in front the end, and the center of the right bolt hole is 21mm from the end. The center point of each should be spaced 202mm from each other.

I used a 4" long bolt (about 3/8" thick) with a thin locknut going through the center of the tubing. The center hole for it is 107mm from the right. The stronger the bolt, the better. Even this one started to bend under the spring pressure.

I drilled a hole through the short tubing so it would go through the bolt. The tubing will crush during use and cause a big disaster if you do not reinforce the hole with round tubing. I had to buy a long piece of 3/8" ID round steel tubing, cut, and grind it just small enough to slide into the square tubing. It keeps the tubing from collapsing and from it catching the threads and binding. You must do this or just use solid bar stock for this piece.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yDOdsGGgeR5tzzb3_LTSVWZDpSUETRebyqIPcZYLSKeuuyC3XlKyaseEQ6uX-s-b1iFtsFyWg7MpRXPQndjt__pysExOVAm-8Sz1JjGCd0rP0D1jEB3w3tdkxNAb7erDDvWADuL6yLmraWax0dgMUWw1K02iU4BBsrVRW0w606uVb4TQgHiUlWCX5ZjJZSTkRLA8bt2n3JUetNAU1HeZUM09pD2VMxMJPXe7bJXNSUl1W5fWMrzOOKyUGPGb4RjrIRXoG_DoZcO5ajKklZRK6FRcagryB8sjHcnUEUI8rQL57BQULzDl650HMYsghc_u5OWCJK1MwBBs9CIXmLV7BIH0beXkMVXH5luh0OpqHUSWee6bI9MuxuGaArQT4V8sy1tfYaOc4OADJVazjiMhfR40OVAkAIP4TpD4T6N5euIWAsH6FlAhXfAvA6GjqkgC1vOgVrShWf6SQ3NYZIuBBAD_b6yqXwbCukyzEWlJopdpIiKmbjx_ytl-A-QfBdrZhsrslKx3bh5bpJYISSJlxhJpEcOah6EFu_HRt5oJN5jjbj5Ariu0Alit3rmoGObvSIiJ9vHv4WbOrlKglccwUfDz1vvpXTGllBEu-HpsPAnO9tIKAj49GDgl1cknIsyEKpM66HIcuisHUrqu58QFItBJPtMeyYN8bRE=w800-h600-no)

Then I drilled a long, slotted hole at the other end of the short square tubing so I could attach a 23mm socket. I put a thick washer inside the socket and then used a bolt going through it, with a locknut on the inside of the tubing. I tightened it just enough for it to stay in place, while still being able to slide as needed.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 03 December 2017, 10:18 AM
The first step to the piston cover O-ring removal process is to put the transmission in park, set the parking brake, chock the wheels, lift the car as high as you need, then put a stand underneath.

Clean the transmission very well. Compressed air is useful. The slightest piece of dirt can cause mechanical problems if it gets inside, not to mention it can get caught in the sealing surfaces.

The control pressure rod clamp will be in the way of the B1 piston, so completely remove the nut and bolt and then slide off the clamp and set it out of the way.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/cYhyHK3wyZM2u5HhyQm8HhHbzw7xakNrmNJmMpZFQovnpFElVnOJt-4j0TtOqvAqgJnWXhMHgo4ix_ye2K6vH_LvfINoIYWILtAfi_qPJejbnsnngUOMo9XOJCqE5JNAg_m5l7Gbu9uJAfbTuJ5f97AKWiPsNQgUnTnosNsDOFKT7CxpyUK4dE9U1Cr2Ni_c2iAZwDyiVFF9CCqVUW1pxACBkE_i1FYU16I6DlUsr2ZBXu80vi9ezk5WIVyJBRG9YuqnNgY5PtKmsW1-pI2-89nrhXpqC_Luw2avD4ENijWakJ-Yuj4g5QJeSCXy28-r76jOhrEa8b-9HYmyS8aqV9nQOT1TRm3RmZG0MYGKpDqNkFZ-1ddmdg72teCodVqRrQ2CjCcVwNdqLkr1i44ZSpuAmZyRLHjdPi2U3DKMWKlQfny045aIw7L2ON_waEmjlW2lReJEkUrcvuIlfjg9ek3ErYZsWERN0t7wnSdFfv7YSQNzH8YtfL2h6a4RNmES-BggvfNp7VLpVBlGrCsTJ4hP0h6W-P8xrkXcEXOU0mMORRLB6In72P8iGojhKeAoA07ykiyvSrsF1iT3ZTtYDgoSI5qBs8elpi9TfmgmgW1jKM4oPXtMQiZYqkZ6P8-igJ6jgjd85dVePV4c9c77D3k2VDhVgDkqn9U=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JezzB0Tl1002woDEDN7nhZkI2b1j1DAc27mC29vRguQmNp2Qvg2otw8BkzlS-yljQ2t-o228GH-n2vs50-XvdogA7-wkUQMHeYwnumFv5WEmgSSnuZQj7wwVyYEnclqvNfsSiHy1Wo-i5akE47SOXiOmmBOenlaXBVpT7ILhbEbML0YkG0MuG4foME9yYAoIPbqkfw9fJSTt7aKxEbdLZVG8d9_0eeol7oJ8OrdyryNfxCwKCfZL7IXQQDdlA0x1EEt9x9mBXyJ6SfR3BIOIOcThviFC00Rzyog-rBC2qaC0Q55O5ImlqHlA8YDKg4ifL66diJle4td5RnqxOAKJsFd0QmqQ0Q6asYzYS1MYbmO8OZNa7i3Pi3QemuY8zAzEJYIbJVIydAisxvWdV1m-35iHjbbFbsqUmDr-71ITGF669akXJ9WU9RwSGTr8JbOJlEOcYFpvSM45OWOnOTNNHjLnEld8WnI7woU7o5dokKYEM6JTDnkgmy0QtTGnV68pfXp6mNN0Ed9UOY9grDdoWnOFIPNYnetRJTrZiT8R6tMpwJs9NQh7Gj_lLQ7ygm3pMniJl6YWa1zXkmVhspKibKvb82Xw2hGaRozpcR4v7qHaf7wArX38v4HVf6ohie3bXiqVdxYAbTEmORfoaJacYiAefphlzU9SzLE=w800-h600-no)

Loosen the bolt holding the dipstick tube to the intake manifold. Put a container underneath the transmission and remove the drain plug at the dipstick banjo bolt. Let the fluids drain out. Also remove the plug in the torque converter to let it drain (you'll have to turn the engine over until the plug is at the bottom, either by using a socket on the crank, or on the power steering pump pulley bolt [some advise against using the pulley bolt]). Once drained, remove the pan and continue to let the fluid drip out into the container.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2iutW3jvlmOFuKAzc5qdeN20sZ3LueJCrsWIr9CA7GLH0xU152MmtPImnXLpL5TyW0I5oXApHhZflHvvPQkqeb4my4LUUD7mw-j2M_aORJlc6i_Dm3gOy1eHab2cUwxeuTeSeK6gJs2ePIoOmS56BtWnNI9YIF2yVpqetXGKcVJtFdEw4CyOU0t58xhimTW_DH19o_ycSYXI3EGVkNeCP5J0BBRD6sJlH6z2wizkgTfKzZKQC3EqL504RxHMGRe8hAdoztfc_ZPFKabNRLjhDk5q8cxoPpVYEkJ8qQlzOfKTb2jJ-qtSMJ9dVeXv2ibOwTOKYx4Ke2TjiZSLOJcNIFxF8LFK5lgzqqAl5bOfd2u60VUaGQJfZxEiL5D3g3OB0iBe6dXkSqlQvxHm53rUjl7EVdkZTAUNdrkSbtmSETzczuA8n1QzyYZKyPbVJ3Ohk4WiHFykbijBKmXVo_FpkS64RzCn09wjhSCU-NUsrKG3Fq-Lq7C8sQDEpzZgUYknb7CiEbZFYkGxMxq06mVNAViC7M-GucbXZNKTVAmU4mhw2ok8H0B3KWWEGWyzNISGJAgz8p3UdEQNobeSE21ZlBmR7soDY4_rSwgPFTcI5_fVVtPlirT2ymkPZrUwDO5xFcwEgTYgAJf2nvNo_rTasG0lB8zu_6ihwUg=w800-h600-no)

The exhaust pipe clamp was in the way, so I loosened it and slid it out of the way.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/BIzGzlwLPFvxQ7uSyxbPOwwrKN5OW7Luueg7SI6sgTavsQWcXUAA1jORqHfBGi8cFBSCKA1nlKLvCbZNOcxg78DqyJPi5POjBI2zar3tHnUModm-Frgos9yh3eD72AXM4pzAVydYvWJkeeTlcTYO4BoqAFw2RcZUiMyD6R6vawIQbBYKQeMCrfaIg9uY4fuO4cKQzGpkupGlwiwTzPueUX5cWn4q--UQKWVS0SK9ek4XVwr6GNrMGw1kW36aCOapGffsmFDeflCVL0s4zhU9lye57oOfpoKimuWfWRQxqM6eZQeUFtLE1Sr7x9nz_VFzoXd60hn88ctf_DsdpPPvQft_hqHesFFhqSx3MXwBmgaXBEVOVESRftknEvMvAwHtwm9fND0MpHzPB2FkdyY_ZAm61VY5bxZRtABBWugqS-2C3gd7spRupCFSPYCOsJ6PojhHQnpAQG_sqp1uLQBUgGo63L9QXKSZKeI9XzXcK075DrZOvXRi__4MZSSIOnNps3TKUioAX6YrNMQ2LuG8y-q_QNpHrbwTMTsjcbU1mmSVcoOUV3zJGDog3mSAmFVMVyEWrJkxdhQUPSQ4-5ADIPnmq5cppb5VijBPbdlb2FxhSX1K4x0gfeNXv_OMQWLWVPa25aTw1u-nQU_YxNcBNj5FpWUlaXo6NNI=w800-h600-no)

Now the tool can be bolted to the transmission. Make sure to put the socket through the new O-ring before compressing the piston, otherwise you won't be able to get it in.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yJBnr_JdvMv0gIBUTlCCB39yfRCozwLRQsgNZEW24j9udirkrHLETohKZJlvyEhgjpnjmY0J-HneRQ6Wwf0SUx9-4ItI59kJvnY1C6ndEKTP6wbHwxIrXmGLvXW_4Krg-kwk-njuDd1w43imUq2xeyHIdrrAIt0f3ZPEuXgWYBLaksRj4l91dXyDzJyyvaWInye3-wawySUVtP1L8Qtrk40oQyaIhJR5ieLqSOCI2aO7QxeMUB_FaEX2KzqguZbm7rZ1beM-bblM-iOgi7bQ9KYBa39QordOSECusL2BDkb-tm9XupYkWftn84UBaTe0CyQyyoX2MkaGh-xG2ZO9ZzgANVqXfrkiAmiXHCS-f1ZbL8a2KNQS0acu6CMsnR3lwnKn8YtlbROdB52ikb_bd665OJwFlEN-jd3W8HiqZpVkepcq5PhDTT8Da0sSfOzD40hEA1keC-Ega1mx0LjuahgcUhqf43w6DY0ex6lp35L33Yj4IqhdOpD4KMhXFvFIVly0c7NOEMl-teHkET_pTlayaq0Ydc00neuunSdf8-5f_oRNceoU5PC1iIj4jvGo8X06x3PsEZsdZf3Uz5FObGNI-j-v7JDRKsocXCiZIsnQs_igTQ7lRtakmlmOzM19RXjqA8EAt8P_RECClJsnfELs3CSjiOieltg=w800-h600-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 03 December 2017, 10:22 AM
I started with the B1 piston (the trickiest one, for which this tool is required). The socket can be positioned to the ideal place.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GqoZ_VmEe_7cyq8bw0nnEyztE1aRgvHWqAKyhK9CtSEUXsYbZvsU2ejwB2CWBXc12RwNTLPNYVc0S8S9EkGMF64MoNg5c8-LzUbD__MCmDnjp7HX_LlCI1Hvl4w_hC9-DJgJem_fbhOLIm87bmsJ3W9dRnC5WrdT5LnDGuo77-FiG6t2L4u8Ygiqj426BXM0QDlAhUPumlwfbWxQbvV6CD7-pc2obVuqaeLktPi4Moo5dxyXMMJL0to6cQZpDI5WFVNcImx-4tSYJ5QTbvmpEJGcoA2hSBiignOfzjCkFaUWEEj64PdfUv7g2OG_ThI0otGBLXfbuTDFJB4csWpKRaohj-2tXAkaJLsMihhj8LOFY1AMi3RMHnbuon35AXzWArooTcB3SAcoao2CtFHcAVyCnnepjMXaosgubMT5BukC1PGVedBbJSDfMyzIIyFA1J5riaRLOLgcyT79HF9dqY2aBqH8Bn6H3ZcSPrJoa6pnsk5ZBRwDeT_wqiQw8mEf46uj3fG3T0lEZeo8mgkwOi-ihx5PAsaaQfaiJrQBSRanEOd7GAHffHsyOREWhdbNAASJlw1u-HKT4cYcnCcVgsIR7t-zgpQ8bh3wSrIgFsDtFDu_1ENEPOHH-KcXrp7MDZx64-DfLpRHz4ADRZFINbDho8L0V276vCo=w800-h600-no)

There is a washer and bolt on each side of the arm. Each one should be snug against the arm. The inner one is loosened, then the outer one is tightened. This helps keep the arm from tilting. Have patience and make sure that the piston is being compressed evenly on all sides. The socket can be repositioned with much care. Don't rush it and make a mistake!

Once the piston is compressed just enough to remove the circlip, pry it off at the notch with a flatblade screwdriver.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/LEfdCI1eybSefemtaWpeJ-077DVofvEwm75TrHl7GXxmO_d647EyyvPgGSxFudBfpAED_Dphl9KvSuOId-KI2VjcZ4iIbDws9Rfrkos0eZTRC2QKLcygKhwEDPHdii_L6FJHGxmfOVLv0yUmAMt2BA6Pca1F4MOAiY5K8mtjwTSBCX_H-sx_BfsEF8dnxsToIGAk5FqbtEVY2Zn94ZJHxRraJ-6EYHBRpEYLAi7g9-B2iiucwbO-4zyRRAzCSAMRwf7W6wXjK8fPezpbbomyAhcCctLjIW70cKQJqHQ_jAXF59w0I3_37bfaZ47ezV5ug6m6JNIYSRN_Y5Pfnp3vzRz4erbfEKqfh4d2ii9gUuS_r9YAvFgn2CmwQPlRScF-hWQRsP3McclS5JXNbl9i98AAm6Jdkw0NEWyS5zWtsbTd8TCCUm56oIYwTAtVV_PEsxYSB2mneWs0mrhHWON7jUTYBph9gdnlnzIZzf3l5WF4cPc8nxdEvOlbgFuyDJkBxD06YOwl1mwevYQ2HnKOUGKNDd_22I_joK4REv9jZOiWFZ-e3XF_h_I_1udZVWymrh2cuSr7QhX7RtPDOJkXjQVyypliSfBPrZhp_Ay9of4rX0lYmGqNgsZOcjJUH8IBhApXb-TzhoOFd1Dy95yTAx6gfGcjm6yrP4Q=w800-h600-no)

Turn the arm nuts the other way, loosening the outer nuts while tightening the inner nuts. Be very careful to not let the tool go off center or slip off. This could very easily become a disaster if you are not patient and meticulous. Turn out the arm just far enough to reach the O-ring with a pick. If you go too far, the metal piston ring further in could pop out, and there is also a pushrod which could pop out of place. Fortunately, my tool stops against the tunnel before going too far. Remove the old O-ring and install the new one. Don't get them mixed up or let dirt get inside.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/EGY7IuTwfucB0NmTnPLuAN3ScGcsr5xcyo7CsPHTAsYkRXkeTtbQoDZYw_9fZq8Lnt_tBptYXSWyXvgYU_iPpt36nDIUUTa796kyqN55CuC1FhsqsPlgz_nqm8Wu2EIXEkESH3UGZb1J8NP346LPjg_Xwmgnas3iPyYujM6Aj64q39G62iGtMTuTdDjzy_2iaDO_ZHH9iyTbry_3dP3Kt303hMeLSi9RBXw_300jbtuH_ZEKBhJKlyrd7kNoAzafRuMxp2vCX4bD4gTKAo2qCIMNoujltB9MnF5fmXzSfNEnb6qgEQvPmsG4tYpmc5HQRTyYud4H4XnrRoXwLiX7eRZT8y7SLvZAA4j3Xgvj-2aZt8PZjkY21jWAgV9MoTMNZCVUBM5Oxrf1_wgOrQ3NWx6JGsPmF3SD7ceJqKuRs1nbU5Wu3BtwBoA6JGBV5lyQziCSp8ugXs-MZjpvpq0w623qpfgkAFfjcgH7rRCSyz9-sGMhN7beAV-IExYQCellL6lOXJJLjMpsvTXigLKRfa62M1r00s5vKEm6gLCzU2Jlux14uUicNV_mKWaujTcZWGZcFrq35bs1eZ_9iD4S7HSCkFTZFvMVoy1hIC1e7Fv9Ruxr3W3XE-cMQQBxTAl1F0rFmHY6Y5MtwE15kGDAydhpnn3qpnjdYPY=w800-h600-no)

Before pushing the piston cover back in, take a look inside the transmission by the corner of the valve body to make sure the pushrod is still in the hole. You can't see it in the picture, but it's right where the 8 is. If it's popped out, you'll have to stick something up in there to push it back in.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/J-5NAfeJXZ4wEYd_yxS9CzFxSMyOKWU2bSJS6QM3yWd-DDV9fRRHJpawHR8rP8qQf6wLYQc-T-w7FyEyMIhcg_H660XyFfvBbplWGFhJRKU5qDqSqrJiTeUL43MR1sNRRT144tgRJGqhBoAD8-CuIOD1wg4zfGv-Vyn2gxgv2W674k1nUqzOTr06mvvlrUT93pFSkkj2UZkDJeFcK2giTK2LWFOuzIM1u7Cjrs0z_u9UvHxqrCU6BUedSwRS-3_Wjg5iiakgnX8Ev3_ECrdFUJpJzW8BGu0-R1XmYBQ9AWkGuZ8tnV-5XzyJXz_pLBH1TG7TurqQIGW03amVL4iFKhbmYm4LRNBroiN5iD9tlyn1neBPgRFllxWw0tRKTfWxTHI6vbLe6o-CR7JP3zbKv1UNhSadyxGh4smo1bWYdnMFE9PoA8pK9DUr-JV5FQJCaHMeHjwIQc8XsHeQHLIyYVipIS_bih9IBQcB0fgBcBSDDckXad6-glaYiJh2cz1F2qH9bTgDb6pKJU_gXbA55SeRH30MSzaOvoPo4CBi7dJjathXKjDaqm67YtFPltR3RIlEF2QUYrhSIJYSK_0c3GY33Ej4r995vJ7g8qenHPnBhiP029qFTAURp7koNBoxbw37vPqHqd6hZjYgBThU_VJCa3kkcJaZcZw=w800-h600-no)

Start turning the arm nuts inward to compress the piston cover, doing whatever is necessary to make sure it goes in straight. If it tilts, it will bind up and the O-ring can get cut on the sharp hole edges. Once it's in far enough, push the circlip back in place. I put the gap at the bottom, so it has a weep hole effect.

Then slowly let the arm back out and make sure that the piston is rested back up against the circlip and not tilted. Congratulations, you have done the first one!

The tool can also be used on the B2 piston, which is under much less tension. Same rules apply.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RFZRAduhcKGyfA52zCeHTxLMJGlID9g74-AMW4FlBoBfpjHF7MVOaIqYM0B-6bD5K0P6fmjeE-oF42cEqgmOtQGEDSBLjuu1YLIEfNv5_PGf6-JVLjYMwlNVBXqIS-UalX0rpkosdm3reeEmIdTa3cLihWRaWuqBjIRFoGrlE-oK_lHCok0w72HsKVv8o1v2P_TMN-qPyIkmIJsgr_wP4kTWIKsqjNEjPl2fBhwO0zhm2FccYxzEq95LmBHiajqet9LI5fsN0aY_BvdpTNKvAQmI-_XhX9sN00UFfTG6f45s8JtV9BYeMOe2sJeBCL6_zaJ-p6xJCETppzosslDaNIrfsICQ5XmgR4W3V2cdwIkoF3cwFS1kwbe2qys22EuSDJ5AZXSj2xOnXz-mLNqCkrnlP7xgIoifAfdEoTBDGxI0tQQAj6Ok-KZC8DLxOeRv4Np2RDtSnPu9KUzANw3ojgLqVbTYH1x_VmsLzGpi5-HM8nSxzSOPHvGGpif2L_VaiiWUf3lifhuX8-evx1ZLjqdl9EFZA3L6NawENJP2bVvzgjRlUqOTkQBfn3xprrUs1yFC3D3kcJ4H2rRoBsowP-uRd7gwHQDqSqcoU3EbNS4l5EfByvjaxn53JpPJmbyZ7c2G7sRUKV2nndIY8D4l0gSq6SJ5BpRBIEk=w800-h600-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 03 December 2017, 10:26 AM
I did not use the tool for the B3 piston on the other side. I pushed in the piston cover with my hands, removed the circlip, then let it out to rest against the tunnel. It can easily fall out of place! Once again, make sure that the pushrod is still in the hole.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/enHNisr2rd305h-97z7huyngh2b4yF8vYAPz98v8zPj5nMc0rzYn6E6LGHpFQeX3pILfrYKCdDefyPUHenJk_KYuU5Kse2IJTa7k94nJzhtrVn-amRmtWsT7sb9e1mxywIMd4wFagrTURvqzLSOrfJkJr1DfnMySJ904pjbmMWFXAea2XeeBnUAmdfCUKtICm2N_1pN3pieuJLgx4Sv2q_Lo7Zcz6Ek9uHAqkGQw7IPUdtyl0e4H8mx0bpcWU8LAQGGdz9_pB8p8T3qwblp76T85NqgnParWXNDEOqYEyDTQAi16we7uiSHHbj0dODwZTKFtH_UmPGMJYrrYrHkV8zw95nzeKaJ7yyIndF2bghWkevPJtRbv6V2phX1JDjHJWOk0D0zQ8gBvgfKmN75fFnP1dAv9X6n_womEMigs-USzjE8Q3W5rk5vQPPjKEYCDHsuKk_TqYyBbUFxfkXdxuBH0oSnitIumtbRuRJ40DckOtBcXVYbXxvh7518O1qC_MoIYY-XYhZmYusWIlzia34w6MBG7Rw_OP1E45n4UgvvSc0WLcvDes1xsG0eqtxKieanjgB_ciq5BdcDZ8pzxGY9DtJa0JKmop0rQGBO_jgbWskJv-Xs9pH8gYK-veqXnZCPWJ9t_h8C5AA6_UKaSSWaIOK3M-wRF_pY=w800-h600-no)

Push the cover evenly back into the transmission being careful to not cut the O-ring on the sharp edges. It may require a helper to put the circlip in place while you hold the cover.

Assemble the parts you removed with a new filter, pan gasket, and crush washers, then add transmission fluid, following the procedures in the manual. If all goes well, you won't have any more piston cover leaks.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tq-upye7DaFsoUgj8pH3-EkIDxSB4KoY_q647Ui2Uzd10HTyh_J9EiAaNu2ATXzz_KBQRiccV0YVCTydlujKVYhTYWxZ_adikrGMuVbI9eMNqtzZioo_FSTIBrpvD7JFEXj_UU0Tx2LuOfTUzoTUxb_fFlSlF3CN3jP-Jo7rOLEWstBH_kkd7aBmeQP0tg9xJ7XkaOTyxB5IJijhJEB9TAr8PO3wSnoZTBJA7lmow8ajZspqv7KWZKSUTjcl-Z4u3EKLv-nx26rTIrSMPLQYrZJsnst8Kw-Yx1UAr1e3lMb3NF0mCU-kJV4ejZKFEdhujk3p0wUo7zNVCZlrsr87kHj0asKGdPSwttxQ11QkKIFkMB1LzdGAAYWEenMYl13-ObXeAGHwSRmA9UepzquE5RLOlzy9ocf_zVXDA-ZL1es6f7BlRsKoYEEbF9DMc_-PJCTolUta0IG2f7LMssAZqVYAK2utErd7NA-NTHd6WeD9OJ-Ri_aJzpBoMddg0joJoDNfLeFXeImDP5s9cAvrcOBNPjtbtYTgmFepaz3Cbm5Ce4JTQBnatZhQKvmK9NPNpT2-2jlSVBuFb9Nb5CIAgtJvVSuJSkonVYUg-wjKmdQPqA8A-xRPaZTj59fZ_ULOuIm-u_wrKDGJuAmO0gbY-3vw0_krgi3NB5E=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bZXt5_vw_R8aiaZRQOG31B-RFUmwcrC-3Kv_aoC3Uf2zn2V3IFxufaBw8JyLDhe6p0hgQ1OTLq6-kWXWT045p26NTVDnzoPyce2iFNXnqtAWvRnPFe65gGGoizg8YxCPuQMIqEiZp7_wDfQJvNvRNzPY32cBPGPcJWNC5qZkW5F_PU1zR8yduOIpqfXoLsEYCWM5013xp9wpi0KbvHGN-d2OhwwYLE5edOLUH1IWXAEg77TkH5JNVNNAOufTd8YA9kzrMBpgMTOKTsIR6TMbH8VuSstygRbfQjRuB5UPh4PTyGSkUT0SI7UZpgp-7jnAx4dnUHMqbjxya5grNiyN682DaNcAIcaJxKSnruXLQJSgBjLn1pxoabk7IPEcViNJqIonXFwv5zPTUj0oPGfBT6NTwLkuNm58l1AtN8NGfaVtRaW42yAYpbV_1KAH0Z0kbf586Um9QeovBYgprPq903hsDHDklLMLBlRWklo_d4G6Gysfbf6iPCYR7fKyRbn5JgGz2o2r_Ty2y69nx49pzu7EMT0IX0tkUU2Jo095Ah11u_l5B-RuKkcmAFPh8NBRT0q7Y-AD45Wq1W0FJHqYpEcXXZ9s513y-y6qULni4-CakYEPOWzEzCV-37DUVi2AkjQXIfSL3c2y38yme-9QEnBqPLudwPirG8I=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nxuBxdKYEh-DKoOTbojDfrNKA_NKwcJ7nyzibSAOLRg_i_w1q9Iisyie_683G7S801Kjhf7mUKFPbsvQnOjTIeKFxJVF-jct29rliq9S3QhRgZvFkEVfoLYL26JTHd4Gdi3aZSBjUPu8XZqo09gt5Qc6j4SeF0cw-P8NGeV6c4PfhA7O8Ea4wsfwfLPF-RysFYKlqlB3-WnGK-u2D_6yiErosIXSLpthkGvDJgGxHkGjzDqm6tJb4u-hvM1o4S8ZfeVfqtpmgmQY9mYZIR8_vAFslAizdOL2ahiucIpQfZrWFSdrJjgcGYczYNjilkkFt0SdhAnk4Mq4Wv92qQc9nkW689N1kNd6Bz3hO5FjOWgz0m80jL7zF8xEsT_AVRg_GOFz8YguB10B2ZgHLEN6FzS4a1bEI3jTeDfX2SnCt3-9WCT0pEAi63-6nL3Zr5BpREpuN_M0jxNo0quL9Nz03kQyKt3u7_9W_Iny4wKAB0uLTjjVpt9gG6Ipg-JcJFYbd2W2UAxj1n8DBs8_x9lGy_ty622TLmQBQIEiZ05ITx_umj_RmhPN7yXCgld09bB6gbOly2ZKTHhmLsN-Jm3T1pQlyGc5U0KlVZ60GWFfCWOtdNCTpJB05IHquboI21rxJgEVzqcdrtGki1frrm2x3STeTj38e6vs0bc=w800-h600-no)

Part numbers for piston cover O-rings:

B1: 000 997 47 48 64

B2: 000 997 48 48

B3: 008 997 35 45
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 03 December 2017, 10:39 AM
It turns out the worst offender was the control pressure rod shaft seal. But, it didn't look like there was any seal visible from the outside.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ckLm1gMws73MluXtoeEA1ZIQLF40-gZORTpOPk6Qd9zTxG1XD5YWoL5Q3GE5OsCJ2tgYsYbalS_9yY9X4lPRLYt-dc2HTohkUBs3sQeOFG7P-0UfiwJbthj2YjaiLunpegjqfECsRW4YuvCOu-_qqFlfH92x3KVYzSCNSUYcK2xPcoPCdFHbQBXVAnpxqb6aTDuLj9_sP01mMdC24WHEVFgJz8d5CIwBt3Jem3lodiGrUOmBGSfuI6bL69GZNzTpfddHm-K5SBUIN_JZhySqs268JZIVmohwJ1CKuroikFdhmu-vYKtasEUcctKkn4CWIzVbwRe5qPqRvtyRA_ItrwzEFbQaS7-n-KDXUCEYRg3FBBJSfrPKe-vPPo99188ax2cud_FaJfDf_oh64XNQdmRWxdKYdu3LJL4nKhjRRk0TFfUc63ihLiz5pPZgOhvT8QivAw_GorbbBT9EXvQCLLCIFGuO0M5t17kmf5Aq8C2WbDCMfXRmubaw2dlpQabtmRDJG7t7MR84WddiXcp2cdYQOpEDSiJKD7bsqBVW7dYbuFF4tT1jFXOUGT2lT9r8FtIMbeksdjmFNUSHMzQ-DGKk1u_QX3zrUANdhRtf2B4RsGtVoV0G9SPz3vFtSe_8gYP14yAA-CwSUYsrwTB58WR9d35NhazEBJU=w800-h600-no)

I purchased a service manual for the transmission (REVISED EDITION), and it seemed to completely omit the seal.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rKYJ8dWKurwAn2W1eERFnxZe9pI2nklkCJMGwPNwX0ib89hCWFOPaQA0mPtMNKPkwg8NOreKmqoKMOS56aghKxVSETkGsEf3AE21132HVbcpRr9M-Zza2p-SUJ_cklzH5QY_uGGibHEsxqFyqNfN-f4DdzF34DjlfQMPNkS47Kb4_rsQPfv1fLAcJr7xKYskm7CtgXlo_Lt3DrOfHTLdD21T8ae3-vfCbPn58wGuu8mq5vhTAH88mg4L3qyV3cXZSDwTZuCNH8twCEjn1E534jchThnsoSPRSLrvQc1fNOHYx-wsvj8GJKrLIwE1xI1ksSmRzs4KYZauMEn1ig_6jUiYxBu1fbCW8Pbd55qGYd6yTHgX9zehCttYFr7xStpsFoYU3JOfelCSZ2h5ZtDyYwOV8_PBvnQpGL83gMucZe8p8RDRpZSrNE6LloHt_hD8FvJUAKxUhL00ToB6OPxS3NMzaxVItZazovqkQne62WNYzNa9CcHnrbIew-3Jipsukb7TGIbudODocPmWI9WPybXwMQjb-oWuHG_v3ar3hZairOkDqN9pooO2t1Hhw7Dxv1NShl89Rs6KGol4Wplvb0uEzdVoBmws-papopWFKluWE0cjZe8ARxFo_-mKwqVxfzzbl-sMlMbDKFpGXAmd94vUPU8iyb_RvcY=w800-h600-no)

So, I opened up the original transmission that came from the car to get a better look. Sure enough, the shaft seal is placed on the INSIDE of the case and it cannot be replaced without the transmission being completely disassembled. I can't believe how stupid this is. The shop that rebuilt the transmission years ago probably didn't even replace it. On the next series of transmissions, they placed the seal on the OUTSIDE where it can be replaced without tearing the transmission apart. If I rebuild the original transmission, I want to have the outside of the case bored out to fit an external shaft seal.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/FMkVQX6rvvhZnQO-KkzkzCrY1pf6MH4N-wsMUwQvNBMZRqzFpaVTVe5a5Hs-07TOn9l4j4XBd7Jny9iPHOE6GDjyFu7Rx5romIGCdqEhbv0MCO-2NpknDsPNWIuyJc_DdBN4V7ztJffx8qHEgjm-i5hqTehA964JIeJ62KFadKPCzBRy0ltpUewE9IMOs8cdD9bM421kFGtg0oxnq7oHa9mtiybB1zf5ewHhiO2kPZp2lMiSIqYgjInKIHdkW2Ybs5gDoM2vjeo-8P70ZGeEooZYxTW4KEcbO4oE3lxti9-ukkrwpKKGeoNap4TTEBk2s4M7Y03Cmw9CnwNhci_j-Hdym9IXHFTIb3KCQOQ6iI95Z3YZE1rJR18pAeaxl12jJwe2NCXMBxrsUbiZiwM3ww1XiSCQnUN7pCvd7MTw-0OPKsJjAcTLrdFVAUWheKpqm2xnOxXrKLOCShBUBUaI0ItyqFzqtfMt5thHmKjdfDQXGOl91s6oaMRoFU3N_3sy0ruxnqM85DVAPnnO6FECAnrhC_S9y3yifR5uj0QSXDXc3I-79SxPTuPv876SOUR1VIkTEcNqYJe-S59EFNTYQFNZ7QP1TyaLPaRElor0RYkmOzzgO8jCtcgg3U2R4Yjmsz0YsX5wBuzorFiumF9-lPSGQCJ2JD3rJqI=w800-h600-no)

Right now I have a transmission that's been completely resealed and doesn't leak EXCEPT for the control pressure rod shaft seal which leaks profusely. I have to keep a tray under my car because it leaks so much transmission fluid from it. I tried pushing an O-ring inside the shaft seal bore, but it didn't work. I might try a square-profile ring next because it may seal better. This transmission shaft seal leak is the only leak I have on my car and it is irritating me.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 03 December 2017, 11:59 AM
I live in Arizona, home of 120 degree Fahrenheit summers, where it can be over 90 degrees even in winter, so I really, really need air conditioning already (I've suffered through 7 summers and was commuting 1-2 hours each way in heavy traffic at one point for over a year). And not just air conditioning, but GOOD air conditioning. I actually started on upgrading the air conditioning system over 2 years ago, but stopped working on it when I started my last job as I had no time.

I removed the Delco R4 compressor, which has a bad reputation and isn't very efficient. The pulley was seized and had a hole in it.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yNf1nUbYrIyCnfNt9cM8xTPCVhv73BUJ2Ohl96YzXaYPNAaQU193I-cqTYAewACdM4teRtmQaI5k79eU3hXyxB9dHso9INGpjeESn2C3U4Cg9280bWDcDzYEE7Ha4RJpUfVmEkaMMMtzpwgLEwIWq22lXkPGsZumN4__PjXmJvV-KthbhiCYbv_T-xcfuLM4kQWcIxIjqVZYhDrzSPJiyECOsemdmAsh8rx3EK_kcRYIrOTcyPSES9JnTRu6Ica_fMYMuBswgYTtHGXq-7CHU0T0jpz2UuK5FAno_3nuVJDNVD0nZKCg-9HYVzBd1KXSYoTd8-9qqESWR5vfBP46udVnkVKdu5anhk70lDzm4eXR_XcEAJSRNq7YgUO8I02gNBj6oz2HRbh3UsyqmHKkM8inDoXz6zkGirRGGNBWLNz3yAmVoQ9spHwjWXgww3yF-9NMPI6KmWwZTD-MYu6KBpLTsV5p9ICROx34ZFck2TKFVV0Co6Xuq5nXf8aAHBvpTBQR8fHkH9hLE3uNL-edWA-ZI7zPZaaIYPfJrofTD-dS1HgyQ2wdEHy_ZtzJXxt7aW0USB8smnn9mYiezMpnKqeMOPodN_zYvScAqmnZ4pkt39C8Iydugg2wuAU60zjWxgbXnv8Ut2SwSzLof3M8_IlTlJnHVIuloH0=w800-h600-no)

I bought a Sanden compressor adapter bracket from ROLLGUY on the PeachParts forum. It is very well-made and came with a bracket for supporting the oil cooler hoses.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/LkN-NNG0BZ4MgzxzTsWUtcDibAgIDaYLd4Peap5KswMm2pkfocjBcegRexofddCXmAQEm_k2yvD0qtW1ytqbgH7sAr-0zUoZm7BqQNxuK4eeLhUKxObeVEfJnwksvAlq7X6nvYuS33p_d385cySnJS8mSHkK4Vg30Uo30UrWHc_DhdRINmCViotDm_KlzzyYRnGDWTQ-rji-AiF25_FqazkLdhiehYhoDNyE4yVn1jMt_xT8tY7pCMtYCopTK0xbSQPKau8OYOWNFxdDYf8MDN082daX1-Dtz0qJPx6PMS4BbW9FwQ3M7nti1UANqAlnPZ-iUQhhg6vxr-yoXxqtlxSdz9N00xnqptE7ipZpacAVOZL6r_mhmAt4jRLlGbE2le8JT-d4VKtwN8DHD--ETwJ2HBlXUUy1CAQC8AgTqKMlcr8sI-zwKBpsurgVh0kPTpqP4ikU8WG2KfflBKb1EK3hdC4TeM41t1JiX7t-X6OFGsGr19CJpzqieoLDEAphARJ1TdOO6SvNbY-LrfWAwZdtlAssXFPxmPflNQ6PlG4mQIdSlMgk5M-70_c13fqwfqbrQSIsgVUG-MabRBBMA8nZ5if8Gg5CSdWBEQiKfhQWWod6FkvR-6Hfb2azyxz4PJ5dJoo4uHMSQ0cRZKjw5skVujVu2XWCGKM=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mM9K2volrVFTQvX-5EaZ3zqzT715mcORLURxHWbjUpz3PVEc9DQu2gt56p6RM1nRpH2qKB1n0LduC3YuHjNAcrE2Q8odnrlPUve6wDqnYCVgtlXaU--uKNzYrYAt6qqj0vYLfniGQH2IKuLgAgOFVOPY3J57jkcqy33zx9rwMAumCw1TBSP49RUdqVWbkdwG4OO3_2IMQFV-jUItr-brifevjz3iSLh3Pp65JeEMnr42l2cq-gALkqnXuqKIFfb9-w_Q5aGVj6VV3jstGZ3NzsKBvUl9vkxB5jrayIBm7-WHUkkVJaVEn6ro3YdOVb5vzMK9l-s1ibR7g81PdfMkcMhY8Qa4i4xeCFHI7y0vkYqmk9v8BjpGknwmh9DYUdOYOyqDZdeYXyOUim9i2bULqmv-1KbdHWIf6gXM3usfR-QihMjbfr9ej1-6dYQLeDP3hqp8F0CINb1XcLWho_NnSo3EgvLsR2bcg4GNT5Saw725pgAK8PdVBkAgN4cIPNNsKOyaGZ-HPiqt32auvGsN_hfPMjf38_rNHmNbXTCJeBDlOMfi8O58zhy83_c7sdCWs9xxH9jo0LxM_X9RpmvWvYxL62fAU_56o-jHVcteTuPwvThdQOcP8QxawzMc9rP_HFhgO-HdgYjBIXT9XwgjEhmbEe0HPBm03kM=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NiSj8zD9GgHlO2kKXFlahO0-597t1w4BA7DS1GmdOwNUEgCsqZ3Go3BTK3vs6jL14jxPfWT4UKFXzELp8MdAxfcYcl2Lf1HDvCbQeepnW1Dt1yL3dJDFbo0apsInUhqo9vG7YVwrFbyIAAh1gs2bRIf60-0qUuL4w1u5KbaP4zeuOxmYZgqos2FW1vZzVGJQDrl5coWa7l2IYnUj09cgLzC2WZhEAb-TUE0NjOlGGjZ4uxMIPvynmgtihx-kcGoE4fVfmuZPxwc8p7wghfE6MCWApuHjj_22LGDBqLpWpvD1_gh_QTEnMKCrQUVSYcqve89p6i2P_wsExvHOBIpugundGJ1oAnaPXIjHIT7SP402C7aJNmbhdmmJ5o0Lxpsa9RLldT9C5pFFC3dRA6Ab_5e5HPEWHod8EloPivhAkSqQ5wSDaBcdJ1D5jJ7fJMY90n4-rZrTP0Q-TrI0ZmJTjNfj4gToOc9fYYRMntLMFmcO-wz759T9GV34ZmRxeyPUU0xnKS1hrtpsltbKeEGEfytFWSrIBiu47AVZSQXGatFpqU0NKg1qel358iWh13hmweEZFcydX_Wl6PiJcyRqaw2keHwOviV5N0dpA2J-po0GCyO2mIChpNNca1k0w57m19Ovh0nWub_PfTlCMvVEXn4zVbfWgUrMucU=w800-h600-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 03 December 2017, 12:18 PM
My roommate surprised me with a new polished aluminum Sanden 508 compressor from SO-CAL Speed Shop AZ as a Christmas present.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RATRIUg-uA07R2MlnL_z_C9yb7SRYSpQyYTww9SPUIqEOa0WJJWKiJXuebYPTrIQLOGU0gyVQDBYFqzugunm_SlhcfKOpttye5O80LwCPoqJs3z_c0rE2uPnTT4zS86j7oVpVnCe6LwbT54jt0UgxTGXFElbC3Tp2P27GFspnCas6uC5n_T4sTQYpvtYxd2mvRu_hOyZA-jBvO11BHTFyD53wiDUSm0g5-6hZvhCOiMA5UWmfM8JJzAakL9tVI2vMoZzO2RbPAhQPy6LVJPKZT0mOThnt9tJsJgqWjuje4dvIiTCFGeLkiRz4dCDCXqQmKiRQJjgbSojZ4Qg4lHAXeB0OdFgC81M64cbZ_RTYqJcqn7mR0lAliY9QABVDWk-6bVC9XBpi_yc6YLM0QB83nk_Ej0Fy6yBneug-eqqjNPH12R5TH1vKX6mG8IdlVnjBUyF2jcwxrjFxyrGCkPcENFrGLhniaI_BqCfQr2MbK4qeMmqDGU0lsbu6xjaVIzcLRGa-IGOSHWgHOGX3boXUWiZSnp5mMW9v0eehVymuKjiXMOn_vLDOCtPGEHg2xxo5sn9X_n9zVF_TXL7AncVFbRex8x3n0zRsfrxdLxFQ6uIwL5a407AnQFCQLmvTH2KQJRlH87Rki-C0swo2Y6zXdU8rBaE7rv2dpg=w800-h600-no)

After some inspection, I decided that I might need a different head, so I exchanged it for a different style. I'm still not completely sure I have the ideal head style, but will figure it out later. If I need a different one, hopefully I can purchase a polished head separately.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0HGEa5pxRn4dkJsppHiF6nJppaeHUb5A6lQ_Hyt0l7-NZItS1vzG7Hry624nQrJ1N-9CWGeB2w4hEnBCSPYH1vgjIn4R4tq4k_FOJLHX6DzrkhFP8FJeRdofjn_YS9SLOf53AyM0Teoc-t6c3Zdu3qjf7TrOqabk1sunVc4qRYoV6nHv6PEFZto0SCaHR5swVUaOCf87BH7pVeiOs9nVIpDjis1jrdzwDj0NlJEmg6mGQiTM6jsMdKUA7q53IkoGaI2-mqF4mtPa-llQuZnGIYCugHbaFVucJ1Z_6dbaPvTuF-UWGrQ276hbHx5ma4Y7rnM10uW8-PKk0R5rtUk1KkNxgbFcjN2mP6hfpvMfpHTqhXc4P6VJHe2wGMiRHHT9ojwD9ojMbf-MvPo2WntxQnLYXplRUEUKYJsHWH_o_CZiIbBXNxOsLMU3a-OFsBy7hMICMvI5yvFbuUZRk36n_i6v6u22SfBXx4uPuBskRfXQwbRl6sxhhj-Ddn8PrBO8Xpn9hKDXndNoLp8_4cmP7aWpkHe_860AkphVsqWPMW-smudUPTrzo57YnlDOlX3FGLlNLJn-5T1Nd1z1z-JqnM9qo2BUTEtspC0KSb9YP9rlwB_yxk2vrnbobihfjFo4StNo49nnNq1TahQyhMDIxftnhrBsNG1SgNQ=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6LbSBKy9Kb6rVskBkxHisvxgGjxY8Q50Zm5ln1YaEr81h6SkovzXx4i6Razsi2nGHeXpfn9uBk3hBECnloFsOs2Zw3aVzL-z6G3tyLdNWoWgTZtRt02_Fr0ZFmWs5AqX01kEV0ex-pc1P4v8ady93Rw2fele74qIw3cF8kXE3oFr-0stG-RU-omj0hsZYFVKILhw_ty07cXw9kE41k4jAnMKzWF0n879SpVSs6I_M6NUVZY8qc1b3jW8PkXscE32z-PrIKlafDMhiX2jxfPe7k5RI7PtHwE5eYQULAPfEQ9qxuXBXt7Ham3iccrUXld5UY7des2DwfYcs-6YRZSaO0iLtWz9Gkz77h49jKrZHDlCW0mu-j7mMZfVT_nnlPTLzrws3mUebdOvBdNepogfsYwhlsWE5V-z7s4ykFheYNzrfSB1vw7pIDLop6pMnbwBktTcbaEm8AHBK1X3qHQLRtrQb-xQpBfqyMIq_704mI_JUcn8ATqZxAT6IHdDB23If6cz16Vk0a4brPfMZpkqFhcv2AakFXJa3RU8IhWzCAZeW7NnAEfqMBcDgayC2GG021jxovWBoyjRVcCwsrKk1R8dD58cZjnz7hwNrkkbMcehh7kHTKW3lCvEYG64012iZLYBHOEhpwIK0S9bNze7jomqtcZZYE4eQpc=w800-h600-no)

For some reason, the compressor alignment was off by 1/4", so I bought some chrome spacers to fix it. This required getting longer bolts to compensate.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/YhFsYUup051NFLLTLZnRiM3Bwo2hyAoqNInn9-PDksSS8rLgwUPchUnBKAWegdVHUfY9AW8awGG2eVrjbQbh3c09hYB-om-16JcYGNDwjVzApFAqudDgAca9GFTeL2pyThdYNH472tZGMdu4z8yA2HNPnKBGigu1TFG2oIfKa9JxnBPS6NwrmT6TY6JBBdlSsNiWJqjUdC_mVjpfDAkeJaUNH5QeBVS-awqYzyFxGA2wgVsJZzMkhWC70USkAJT3pem7UW0UKNYMV6by2MdmU7SgWwpbrb-kTqp7WEC8csfby3XFj0D-0xwH6cHu6hDB1a5cb0I3K9yNqIf4bTqIDm3fW7E8edv-nLP2_88xSS5YYbf6aI8O6es0dGEWoSLDPHXv-Q5vh6ZtnAEZnIv_lHV88koszEHf8JCTe7T1NfbjXDpQvNCnr8NBp41svF02yy9gLAi-p51HeguJXUJ45GlH8vv7rKdGhw54leQz4nmSnllrBueE8yR0dDTmh32EiVnBkvoWNWAksf-CPA487g5kgapiaQcQwm40YvAB28CKgF1y4MVffGmWlgbQbeOVu3A17EyV_Dm1OsfHjvTXKpsYwv6EUYikSG0EUACpc9K5U6qtAc313PA-vBRkqoFHdzDqTV7gU_BliDuWy3r7JpjmwrQf4uhlGxY=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HdvTadz0z-jrrssJC8BjxzeqJ2OMs4U8cxqWK5vvBBHQj6kSlbBAKKNFm5Xh_a4ztt5QlJe9C9x5QdcujghhoDvDRqxjRnJqcr_xGvq8vHfuwqn67c0UuzAneCvaD4tQs1MF3l-zVOJ4TO8njIF0fTK-LQA8ECxa-Y3uyv5SsWOiOMq_nAbxfxTHteBP3BsIuyisL0uBC80JzMcYMHJQc7G6FHGi1OhnJO27ZDjwiaZmRdsTxlB4sEINBf7or5heWwmq3SkKVElZyElPFuYpY_1FGPQJPCmogpwqJweW00Owi3t8Lf8F-gEIGVQzTSAM22Dn0sLUEIeeTpCVgTEMgnyavrzHTJ6wheNzHwoo7G_b4F8BJYng7U9ZxAXDnHyVNie7fJ03UGGUxivBvMAhJbZzMKjPPqWRndkRZoJ3YVDwxymbTH-dbOo41eNe1QqsSYt7qINc5A2hTOCmIeC7P8CI8V25SuX5AeamqHO2n7eU20CYtu2Ht8hMXM5mYvTQ23lxmnDg88Y-ExMn_lGMPNlEll_iM36LrcyT06qrJUxYsoBXhVaxBmFXOBkOWpAb9HkVrwvKPnkjlZmdiMTEx7j7RoymUOcQNgu4SQ-BSICsmnGA6ExiT_OuSb6H0CelfGisyK7DjdJ9yKug_bCp0OexGSraWgJe7Jw=w800-h600-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 03 December 2017, 12:27 PM
The adapter kit works pretty well. I must not have secured the long adjustment bolt as it fell off at some point, so I purchased another one to replace it. I had to reorient some of the nuts and bolts after I took the pictures so the compressor would have more range of travel. Even though people with W123 300Ds are using 11X940 (15370) belts, I found that it was not even close to long enough for my application. The proper belt size for my car was 13X990 (17390). I bought a Contitech belt only to find they are now made in China. The Classic Center doesn't seem to sell belts in that size. So, I bought a Duralast belt from AutoZone because they are at least made in the USA by Dayco.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9SQ61KW7CsfkMJVUT16zXg122b7KpU9k61Jw3PN4-RISLTLc7oOsYCdl3Rws2xsBCW6PoCw-r8lf84N2IGJ_YBKwXuZT_iNQK13Y5a4ThBNnUdYQIN21wbpmm2EWG1QjAC3aSycRXSebn-M_z8ixUc_-g4ZTVUT6G_1xMgntSIWmqrrlrCcFUnU_yi26EOrQs9yq7KC0hFWB6uuFuY_dIt1TZRj-hl_kUuyssvSZwTlavONGq8Zx4qGKbRt5GpGrdiXl8RrRS8XE-Mc0MYHNyRic4Ni3I7zv9PIhC-T2eMuiO_5fRxt3QdyPi3D46PSBjtg8tu_OR1k8GjE-HZ3iPwnJSGZhzw6Eya0nyD0If8lTbWBMT6jKE3dEA4cK1J0PvlNXqL9b6Hg0_NK6PoGA6dww7789fY02mvgCBiP_Ryky_kOdmEOQ8USFtxkLpDDqqnWBkS3YrjkMAtmVHdXQMFcNQ6rdtXNJraLkGKc5MXImjbkCsaZctquQArcUkwSLS3tzQsbvHTLv57QELBQ5fKxqPkCT9SJhPuiBZiouQtossb13m3LZuedkcg6lO9XLnx6THkp88KHJDV77jtwFNjOfET_z_TyKzq8NM_-xyrNpqruY65nLC73fSqOHP5HJTu5BqRCaz3QEReIQ3y6artAMPlUfLxIYSTc=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZZnZGbpx80KNFQxgvhwcH7OdgXAhnnyer3he--N96Arae-9GCqFZR4mF78o4G2wMTXsp-_PxtewuEZpiusPbf9Y1MnwYP_AzxZGVF7pvmZmWxCC_ku92EA4p4uwQWLf3zA42bmxC5HCCOZtLZQ8YeMl2N2FfyCVmOGzGGq9wvpT5nkR00NUyP1CbzBILNDMQXKanp40dwjEwHq_EjaNQZDr7BwTzj83_8TT5CRrKYGJ7xuXLdDLAlDIWZJ5jj4s9wrHQ8T-H-9zvbBkFip-63jjdaeKUfjPTIhCAEYlohiVdfn2jcVrBWWOGJWVD-w7wYb9f2mJ3bjFI2lH06E_ys2U8qUb3OnHmKXsr509FWmQ8kNTkqs6jo4Q1Ijf7tJgWN3k5JXVZ3C7zt4iaPKd6Bcjgfq1Nnc004PGWh-BZwRPRxyOZJh5Sl0QSrgNFq1eeou2hNqh5iFTTqO6PK8yc5zeK5WwzZljK4HnU7euflVyyvtjy-UoEQpZ--ZjtFZuBlnNuId8jR5PS0tsVhxjAN_sfZxxec4bp5uibI0K4nGE0lcXq8DXyeDh5IK_tzfc3416shPGGL0rXYkKf7aQ2igsusEDkZ7AAs1tGTc8kIFnjErSiEQ4t_tyHblifwKR-HksGWcGr6YO1b4VhAZwVUfW0aID8zfC_DAk=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0SDOoB_GEXsPXCETJBT4We7UujKtTrptpGOH-q27ZSxyHStBm2TI_iiSr8u35t7G3DrAJVzJtIStAoCmjT_aj3RJl8kh7gMR5HXH0O5MUAm0aKb6_IrtJcSwkE4unW2wXcuwu8GaLS-wNCRQv3oPDoYwRJFJFOPC5rsKYEG6V_FVHMLllpJMIltWR2FVtwcTt5qCEz1gKK-1cGfjQsVtWB0qXijntJq8iP3Pf0d6n1VAMgKs-lpOrNBaIsA_Q4Ic35wq4Mtbgx1CgYSwTkzqIDw5mRhKuV0uMGEP9bmwkngYRDLR0tjn_k8hd_eLjL0vRMPTGK_xGpuhIQBJC5PXYi6w8mdR5R5oQNniyKV8Hk-VbPTyApu9ADlT-IjBA13bxtVp8CdILUICLoPhe728PzxUcomBzSzAgbrC0gv1gdimCXgOqMR4gub2JU2iauZUuQz8yPH2n6iDWStOGmeeNL8zw_1H8w11hnc665cb43IRmOzqBytLMckmg_OpWRADTX6M9djxDdXWU8ckFCXPVblCB216E7ewfCGvZx1LmQuRyVyuDee4krxoX23SCtSjxvmj8aQPXqOu9NwkBn4ZaXOyt409a8SlGvmp3vagjlfdi0E8iejh0WbdCI2tVhS09mVfs_FTiOIwIGwDhutXxGS-EmMpByiIx4Q=w800-h600-no)

If you do get one of the Chinese Contitech belts, you can use brake cleaner on a cotton swab and wipe off the lettering. I don't think that will make the belt last any longer, though.
(http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachments/vintage-mercedes/143564d1502296360-genuine-mercedes-parts-now-made-china-imag1456.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 03 December 2017, 12:53 PM
The stock auxiliary fan is very small at only 12".
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rdAP9dUYMGZ2Nf6zOHf3DOAqWsk4g_d6tA4ujknxbiWFq5wgDSUvriCeAH9tuY-006ojt90AqikUxlMw39DbWFzCOyzzD9JQ-zeHb9Ckd2QIuJhqbSiWL91GaS4Pu5AsD9IS03atTXl0ZgOBTUySynEWqd0q-9WiS4Z-1RlTp5aTOF5wUg41vIMhzsj3u2pQrFcrkX0o_QQNctqNOxt9qDq3Yc8YQsctwsRuzIjLYm-rOIBD7ZDS59OEa7eUjj7ersstnJ3NsPwBo5GQ3pX_7A6FNvp-PfwW4acJ__n4oOVDZyIMCYXzjtXh6C1edxCddt0Jkaez6yiXDIfyXBzoOyybv5sckLYpALTuAO6FaZjg4_Lx3MInHZqSKgImPiQUNGb74SG5Jjxuh6kI4nqIQ87vOXwAzNH0mh3NfQgYDghBdyAtScYOUc004eQ_zy88YCaqn0Ynbt4HfksSt_o8vAW62quPpO9y0GnXnS51xpY1XlArq_iHiFtFZSRSy166RRp13U-x8h40z7e68LmxSVB3WDEH7pRRaa911C4-bqzgRc1woaMfCM1bzpvUSjEVdIF-CCXDF2-t0RnMR3MBcfHzVK2H0ioA2ZVaQxjhkEeTZgGFt5Gzt5hAzFHzyGgDn3hf3fM8p4iNYUr_RAN6Px_BpRV4EEvc-5w=w800-h600-no)

I went to a wrecking yard and looked for a larger one. I found that a 16" one from a second generation W126 fit well and even had a 116 part number.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/c9LDTVF2ScXylhbR_LTE7i9VZ7Q4E94VgsbpOcIJ84BAi9yL0dhKszzxzgt8KpP4bfk40AapLaoktxHkKzJGw2fS_aiZy2r04PEkt63NhHwhkCRRSc7p_dL_94R2RaPE7pBhfLE9B4UWtSy66lbqToB58BMdJYAYOjpzpi_a8vE4EPHTjWMEDOiPej0dpQ7M9oKEZD7e6kH7n7U2KaPtUV7LIfXzV0RYNuEzEp6G7ThEyHUcCvI01XNlKpnoaaeBu954AmMOl2ms259btiA8b45erNlnFLxIitGcjlSO78ROyF2eGwqm3AnIn2wQ0N74W_0hE5Qn1p9GfaYxLAYVfLqyjpuUzNzkd9iccte2GEya8siiboMu7O7oyK7qS4aGbp3nVMt67_lChs2qsX6PLP3-6Hu4C3somHeOlL-ZL0dIgwpismMzN41eB36YTI-rp9K4vMwqTPFvMhuO4RFunoulZO_TyME97-X_FD0w6vFf2LImVnL154ayqbwbNgzhcYTqbsEQ5G2d5Is7ylqwS1p9tt50uhRDP1l_aVJeWRaVvuzOXq31jtns2AWY2u0sOyX4wZUrXdDtKjCUK8_N6S7oBxxXGvtnwGQ-qrcO7nGp0t_PRXnK8985PD1i20tcLdEFHuhT9j1uL6selZa0yOw2fqV4QTFplzc=w800-h600-no)

I bowed out the braces and made a bracket to support the bottom.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/SGH6gPgDuhrfd0k8c28IFSBuAGGgMB5toUI1VAozHsxVfh4rT_oGw5d0AvlTvjH8S2GVTKjgqY78HeZmfhwAwY1mcWe5I1hWHHGfESiPUSvYxtS2HdJxrhNWzi97aOrZ_ys3ds01TSj05sOu38ajw_iHcB7iTxjOSJyJ_f5ED1u-ZTODYH_ImyPl53kqnkEJ9ymXdlNA3r4tO2Ls_HXYXOns-EJN1nYQilRSer43TQWtnis7FhPhNm8vSjpFqImrfRevSb7wENdxORdWR8inydhhsUUjQGfTE148TVvhrQ8TEHPbbx4COwmcwNPSYBsmpsIBKwiulotF9zqYh6fr4RTqENZV--_rPmMoEfib9n6Y2KZNYBXxu0B5UdENg7Gl4rgpUk0R-JTOf2Vhz-vRYpBcnvANyp_Guzjjdl8d-zQ4Vmbbrd-zhDVm4F4el5PXLEWguxx0DQ8BTEQKwmmv_IsH9fLYv7YtltojCcz8D9ft4sDJjSPYD91-GTvmPyYNpsTciXRZWYirQQCT6K7bVEBFKFmEhL6Iuqw5sZTH9aHI8ikf8MX9f4SiMAaeYy928LoqfnQThJwO2x8mqXW8U0NHXCZaMyqaPl65mlI5_wMG6hfP8TrZAL-qrfQ4A3efXHyeKHvlbpPtTU-x2b9eOEAMgHyCsleb0hM=w800-h600-no)

The bottom of the fan has a pin, so I drilled a hole in the bracket for the pin to slide into.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/x0iKi8jcdWA6JGR_HKe_cbujtPtQTojDMgzfo8V5d6eiylK2_jrx2ksPZEwzpQiPqkk6tKAG8Hm8gLXqkuhygLPknrcV7ElSjxlRPNaqOCUCojU-8dqg2EvrLZy2yDlGvu4qa-S1vlQ34JRc46of6CTR7y2NqkVxJ8CCVK3j4ahxPH5kZJvdkda0KZF8-fZ8l3whJ8nNulL6MEcZivZQk1oDEye9ACVeEAScRBW8mKhObuXkMQM-RGAboftLOLHFPuQZBQG4cMsVksb0092JtbKSvxRhLOVtStDQiOIvgZCbbnrMbT6o4VfLfEP3iwMaAfPAhLsyOew6mjc59jidMkmgQ069n4dpeRM_NqgnnWzOIO6_vgxl7shCTDZqDl1ZjOQ99YapkLZZpCVF-7_FA0lX89R5tHFkbLt5CNzE0gSGECd3fhUZvWrE4OmxuQCJRfrxVxcHXeNoZEUkzZYGyjBD2Ybk4a8hC3CiExPYWvcN1pQgAfaVKiq9xd4M0P6GMB0RYYM-eFrDfF7ccbD8XgSSJAYD90GFkTsqjF_CsCKIZRDvkelAHCd6X7vSSMyhpHEvQbU3CpYs5i7SrwGG9WFR5uj63HOp7qol8DurI6nGjThFpvAG0f0AwbnFTvInBrNJ3H9H_Lpss2heKs9oZHF0g7wLUdjCp3E=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/s5jqEwtiBgUZmOtP6LlqUvbTyPnPN3wF5U_Tvy70Q3q3pmt5hYkPi2MeWkvJ_91XAY70qIqPeRdovzX6mpoqAnpX7goP7yjT9t_KhmHpnd29JOrmy5GE2CofMCMb4CtvHl8P9uQNTCsoBl1lA_5ajmo0jETssetY0Lk0wjpyEBuUEzJxdtXVDS1nmzYT8aK1B7QPTGb5LOjSnr4YGrDChZwqwdFPY8wAJAticQThKcsSG4y9B0dCEJjC3U8xBORKnslktAr1AbyqlTotI_zozQVwM_XXdFEY9suaXipupefZcewlydHOGz297ycmylkiJdJ0YUwt4uAHGMd7gimhGyA8SVSSQtizyOP2T5q3DS3WBcFxTh4LGkQTJ9sQ75Co9sKfDXLAq-rRnvRZUDn8lziOqwmMQjqG2EQzTP7CJHtCdy80MCVXABxPHExLkAIHiDwhL5bUiKavzvCUsSIswciRQJblAmjPhPQF247_ht4IJZRNiek2pQhiQ6888duoz6i5hSjLhuFiCvGH-Z3FUnk74-VvwQPg1cTbWOOQLcSW7hB-CzUqriZgRjlemRBFInTpOfCXafIT4rdELN5zTk5Tsp_Ej2S9J47XRCyDkRDO40LSUY5VahMXuu-JSzKq1nkaXhm5SrWIKmCEnWEBSMRcl8pShCwZ_fI=w800-h600-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: ptashek on 03 December 2017, 01:07 PM
Great write up as always SD.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Peter on 03 December 2017, 01:09 PM
Great work Sir, and I love what you did with the aircon belts  ;D
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 03 December 2017, 01:18 PM
After confirming fitment of the fan, I ordered the largest universal parallel-flow condenser that would fit (16X22" from https://nostalgicac.com/parallel-flow-condensers/unpainted-condenser/16-x-22-superflow-r-134a-condenser.html (https://nostalgicac.com/parallel-flow-condensers/unpainted-condenser/16-x-22-superflow-r-134a-condenser.html) ) and secured it with zip ties.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zZFCCjr2toU3pZTEbb64iZ9KR20oD4_ipkxa2G462jWs4PVjhrywxBqmXEg4VYpu8BDc7wxDxZWEniqRma6OY5oPuojvwPOFlPWn6tFiDfyreHw9NTf9OfulFQ5owJvaIZahr28eACCaD8uYfwEeEafW1rmIAxFEzUTKLtKxXl3hOdWZwgTCVi_DpTteATt3_huVY59gFA9BQGp1XQk79AN8GuB6FzyVdbpNRlJnnE2OcrqeJvIealJRB91CiC-iHj_XkDfRvA2ZxIL8G_KJ52ujNz6NesXyCdPP8luDpKvMtjEIfKmfRh1yM8V4OS_lj_HWl8G_v1p0NZF0I9uWU8JbV8DQWSVprQhJxqXPUNzUlJaq8pF9WsHWMlYPSDRwjmnIdx8d2WKOxeJfjDoCyCHeaKd1AA3rdVGroVZXRyVbpuZC8Q0zAKAyRGI6GHXorCaRYVB-hB8uqA0pLc_YHOThPiKgejwGF2AVjmHT4ZBFTgJuDk4tosRqeqXMlb5WC5K5s6MMz4ndwbUm6zJMWLLvTwLh0r7ZUdvUrzYYlhS12OlGujfkw1RsBY0FFQlDuyuK1nsVT_L2Ak_wXNb6CXSBu8FmGweWcz56fLk8dC3QwENdt1uCQb2zN2GcSsAls0lMe_BcZkY7YYl2r_4V_DItXUMIkzIc3eI=w800-h600-no)

I then started designing mounting brackets using cardboard patterns.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NAWZ1_JmnV7iT7Tc5ZFtaTJvBUCbrJQKoilTCQc-cpN3YRvcjYHRlH1GXxdBIo1gHtrK5460YV38AxBgbxpaUkWHGCZ2Bd23w0O4vKYQWoDF2osLKt1Joczr9RsAyvujUINysBq4vPnFF7w2NblhgzUVbOMgRq8YVgFAm15WUkcbFSP-QrcVgaRLl4jMAnPE5FFm0eLh4Yxk3V_SBD-10biTgMO6wxcTQqufmBsakjEsThIuoZTYxJgyZMGik0jgaO1X_4X64-moXW5gLti-5HFbWnUfW20tMpJbdswPyZMldUXc7tgJrBrrqJ5hRBjMvoHmH8kz_WAQo-grhQpVbYQYIrsa4uE9rHIhoWHDnNg99kJ6Sf31ftCe2cakxrlWdKZW0vHualBpDEFQ4SnSYM7Z4uSVHUssr71LbLlFfTjVewoN3BvJqXybcEL53Ee82go3nLAY1v7j3FvwYmny3hUsqoeku1WrTMA7DA5t_olnjZPFeJ65CQAFYUu4v3uhdcd2LB82TokoiNT835lEzSwUCRWwosc5ibd7zWgFFp3YpqW7Ine67dVRseV9ca6qXHNTSDUp7hvF71laK66gtRQSG2whvYNpDrr5sdzTgLbN3r3QNerowXSo3r-W3yAzk54SJcoBLMDjRDt68u-IRyqKfDklPF0EcMM=w800-h600-no)

Once I was happy with the patterns, I cut brackets out of sheet metal using a rotary tool with a cutoff disc, and then bent them into shape.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/1RYNtDpeVGVVdsu8N4ZBntnRrMoOBTQPC_qp5DldRpOEXFVdqfKxrIVNV621VkmSdfycMRVUQUR6TWyjoYJU6WxM2BEJ3cbvodAvI7uumnqE5hfMEvHh7w3WBjat1DxMomvRZ9RevCp6eSAWlUzJMABSzHePmZcokKBzXCl_qXgdveulI4C5KUYc4WjqTGBOMxS_1zFxszZLZrnL3Ihl0E4e0iyaJnj_aZn8Ij9GMPleFwQe_NLsfkV5KzLI3ARe9EL1YP7e2NtruQstr9e6k3I_OcWBpM4jben9t9EM4Clc7XIBbrFNRgpqVIVc3U4eKibsyH4ApKK7WLTyMlVqTHZCWSCJP3Ot-1NQLRZK8U9DTwMawQGEdkFDkVNb8IuWvEEmJfZ5L4ouQyhCp00u1IWK6fU0fQdaUdw4dT6Ybx00WmRJRUU5lK92EyWCTjz_tUBj6BCbpKaHzkcIRA8DLsXNd8AYzDeXuBDU5mWXJBldLavqr8Pm51jK8lrRd7CM_XOhf9doo377EnaBLndX5F-b1WPG_22Nb2CVyfsJs8YMyeuzifCPRVdT5TPsT3tDOVrPDqpdu4EGsTQJWKH-VzvOJHlDTeZFvTizrPb9fUY0mFs3qhCfgqpSMBISHuzHxUUBn-S-u19Xch_Nhx0eC58WwbDZDn3RudU=w800-h600-no)

I installed rubber grommets that were the same size as the originals, but the Ace Hardware ones have already dry-rotted, so I want to find the part number for them so I can get some from Mercedes.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/cycdhD-eboVPYm7XLsVhDRMhBED1rO75vG06rT0lUN7Zbcq0vT9BBlz-P_QoWtStKvF9WTkn58M3LNUYi04sKlUdFLCR-Rov7l-GZG___rRaoF4JoS1_u4k02UMrNgDf9oamp1inpbxPs2YVfGLqwmV2yPo1lPkeu99aFlTq4dSdkS7vQsqIXUL8QSlIk0rtOxs7C9QngJ2MzFjewwfVmjaDafDthXE0h5hsYSqSo0sjU_qJJjcqWoHHecw4Th0onn4w2cWaf-9wlhVFRBCXx03luODfwcM8AEYmmpV6wS8wCOkazuVdJpgfpoxPResmsMRJa3z9SpD547nDHG6IInH3ww9OopFlOn75uyEI_JyAR43dLR8r9R4Chf5wESIQKcx06p_mH6cp67y48QirZz_8lIIeX8gLB2--0QqMsfw33SDbDW_9VhjCgnauw8f7oqOSWtmKKPGYz20xNL1C6fkjHdt2fvgBPOx-zUQh1TgexFSU-t1GpDlOef7KFzSohfrPnLDwj5taT1FO5ssm9yppCIjyXeKuUx5e3spxFVdN8J5uO4lm3_MGkNbe0Nzvu75J_saY1OXp83q_xm1Tl6MOvLjWbH1j1pC_nruMddwxRz8Yf6p5pdWYX0bhzPnK5BdlhsAQDmeeJAYH6nBWcoPk5qT-v42q3s4=w800-h600-no)

I used the original mounting holes on the body.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/cf987-xktFDzxk1OSZczE6uGgXrqEghur2Gp-teOXKQK-DuJFUl7X4snpdar4iIJ3srgof_a2ak2BS5y5FWZKBY7H23QDig9xNO5pAt0FPHw6QcIOxDqISkIOogmumxKajkhI-D97G0ongOMd8Jmr0SlE2US9jZL9OcZm8Z2hDNH8IzHSMvKP0TkER4ZSdTpEbqadEFKhUP_FhC6nFmHfPYqXWL-MdCt31Hi8yso8CWMPDVBPt8n9EgrHgOEQVns9tWE_HLckC8JemgS7Unzn873c1XDtkP9ag-HZAxP-WW6K7EcsvB0bIu91MGsjgJV3TnMcJsfTWYzac4vfDAQS0cnMEUaosQ3uFDU4uDKTpg_yvkP45eD-t7l7bWvx-F79_FRLwyo8H5kawBQuUOlSA1xus7v2a2PoVUzu4iJlIXaibuvZQKZ20_CywFfZnrjqo1jRNyS5C8UNtWSk9z7FeGoOO4Dv0djykjnflQdqTA_PfmoPqI3uxU6lBRlS-pK6j4q0WhvT18oJBRRTYDdv9eEY6xEIvOhZlfcZ156rK3CCktC1bq6J8A_9vOQiMVFaLNJrx7o97grasWwFmMcaqBqnNTywhXp1sGr-ZEJGDODHNZ2vGtp2aSoTAsCJB7mHqi2odJYdvD7Z9l03rdliu5HQp9mAdoDzsQ=w800-h600-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 03 December 2017, 01:31 PM
I wanted to mount a stock style drier in the original location. I made a bracket to hold the drier to the condenser. I also used coathangers as a guide to have a hose and tubing shop make some pipes, which I secured with auxiliary fan mounting clamps that I cut down to size and redrilled.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/V_fj24kU4bkqpq8VxQhZk28ugksR0OnEHXIpav237wWGuYlMCAW1vIPvzLeeJLqJvAKk_47-bBzC5Y6QiX0Lm1Sfjm_goHkboQ4QCGyesQQb_GEkqiq90zyLjq1HOSxWT7KAKow-aKTSzeDv3RP3P8FSFJbtXNtwMbO6gKzRbBkG94ooirDI68ZztTm1YkFSk2gBp4IhIGz7otFQhsS_agbiDW9PGHyVaatT62n5r7yovhhFSjWQBxBP2rRM7dBvCwkOMoH31KrkLMyfzgeRbiM309U-txCu3Vw45e2nR763Ry1IugVKK55plpFZk8A5PtoN1FwfgmHGA4KWPrkRayLuK0fBRBlTEoVL34cdB2EK5r_4FKFLf7wQqQC7hxy9T_dYxQuPDhSF7UccUB7ZKZVJjhvtFpWlJPbgbSRMgKXRcge5v2WYEuYz80pdy6B2K_ET38pWFxvOxqd9hUOooLHuouP_7CTxkdiGQGctzvu-TU1nRl-QDTvdTHtgWts8Me7DjcYq9-jjlAy3Mr0kmrt5avnDYHTMa5IuB42ZigFyEPM43SBDhDRj3frGf0ZFXENRpfRBSMsGVEoBkejGBuRIi6qddfziYN0mbpYAOlfOR_kRrMsZbWOLdix3lXTMuq2JFhJGZ9kK4SVrA8KMrishWQjn6ewOJyg=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/spZRCKkj2v5IloLjIVSfoiopLRCkhzFefb7i-k64P1N0ZTCR-KlYWg9qt9zxch3_KbXFwJzSI55A4GXrUXkdN_ntLR4eOWw7qIQNWpojCTXQ1OKpp80621p3VheZZdHzjbkaDQydiKFAIeoQ4z5fM2xefT3qTm5EXoI1OpfnfGEdUhZDZCGq_tZak8tgjs90gWYnXOn5cq2duKyYG9RaN4FBs6A1w8XCtRje-BqN2fg7Y9g-yK15oHY2-ZoV01WI39RjhpK6fgek16syj6LK90V0C_bP4ihTlpmCwteGFoBg3yyN_PA4tue2PfSPF4dRQ0glG04o6KTfEnq1H6TdjCtNq-sUQ1ariF-xCn7LbG-NfotKtDln7dZR7ZYZIUw5MIMgg6n4AtziYBpIuYPp4XCVSNIVCXHfwstT3sIxsgRxADjM6JveesVQhcUHht3HScWI0KYMpxZfFUuIDeTSYbvJt_XMpwP6DMo6PAudyAry0qmtwtjqZUZN4p6o1E5O-5vuknrxOm9K9sPndHbco9tfxEpUnaQtUHvPwCQXotsnp7cjRunaaURNdMUbFvTgxEF3fCPAaNXTw1ITP73XV64buUHdmhgJcb_fpyNZvia9tkNuGwnWiUvcGEdmXpfLH6HQOAL-ogx2tEc09QdLZPMZj96oEY4pt8I=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jYcYbh6FV9Ll66AAG4hQlbPbxO1u_ozkJ9vH_Emrc0NVr_-bHIlci46ZcdlLj1cnTmPeVY3Kp93co5eWf8eFzon-sJQ5BpBo_lJ8mmlqnIWbAYrk2UNTuzUsOTyaF9kezLwZ53OaBljKLQDdhsZ4_pPiBfJJGvK9NFCnTb9y_bybRpEMVfqb1s7oSDwZo2hTq9e6yZhshy05jt5GGfHjUtS2VDETZNOahM1t1fEWO8TuOj0fDIWGLmfF49if6r-CvMFE7CmDZ0Wh1l14hZpY_quDAkG8Xrd9u35j83w3wHW4K09fKFT5ZYSTvp-lH7cu8elDb_5-vQYU0Ez-5oSBM7odp07yDNFQPKcTwlAAqbMdgFjrOkMWUzAt3S-EKxj8XJvPIOJo5d92Fc6s2kRWLp_88GDh0kdvA6fHqVCAewViEz295fdBMZJ7MTp4lajSejB7OeWmYjcs1M8RkZD6QkbjbmhvWpCHG4UDAgJJEpp7ZjIilfd9-5m1f7TNHKwjZBdLi6guLlQC2M2tmU55YqqhNuq2HMM4lCwDXnm8PXc21RZcOz3MZT3ZTJfLYhzrRSfcAH8jgHXa7IHFEZJxk5I4qdGT1VMZKyqBnbKuNGU6GXnbt5MgIsrDa_i6_yDF8B67j_CVoU9tMmIvozMOxsssA0WO0I54Gas=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9xeVWD8YNH_60v0FNCltvOYUEDyc6CTXeyBc3r_Jdlyza4FUJ7hlSe2yT8DNa7VaNwmmX0VEN7CsOiKvVuTEA-buCnDAb3rZlDu1aickSq_e4zbs0Zj5bBtIvT_J8BrcOgUzHdj0xq9DlPsFNl0prsVsQOP77fzSGxWG52NgCg9mLsPh2mDaT8szeS2qf2xymBlz_vdmyXkItS5pm4_hUJfwHvTPpYhBHvCc2QSfeYNhkdlyTprAOmgBE_Ht55OTmimZW4IK98sQldX6lDo8mp43Oq9c0twhsCzc1O-PmpKFMl9N4IdioTFuJMGy6I17E8LxTLMEGdhyGG4B8fPlU1U4RLCTW1bgUXTnVX12hsrPxj9xfJc1280OLOzTVyDecw0PhLgkH-4A2APsTyG-ZlpA3qDx354fcLAryqVv68PSiXzeorqkG9_9y1laZaDMLijiHn29vrC43vrCZmiXTdYmQXRk3XJLayJmn4Fw0uJlIMLz-QXXS-7EgEw2x-KVy-WSp3D9eJuTcrRnUNsHZ9krTBrNJAtcaexkM4CkIXLDdhMsgNKErrBeQ3Yjl3aI8hWPtB8L-Wt1o69PFHiezLlfGq3zL5akw6-ZcFVHJsDWZjja5jj69YWIJd3Tz4kA25OJ5A35PpfCD8wnBe60oNyKwtb4oTIUb1U=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/CTBCHbgg0q3O10jMARaXnhzjgc03E1Z_9xewleLKAVYYi6Lt9VCuOyjYFAVESaF5jqmInH7IFRjP1Wj156zfx6xKlItYE91oMnKQWSku1noItxxnTTli51BW3KgxkOmriKXDx8iuc4_ZoUKfRBxc3umKZSJFIYqfmte5scYVGvL1HV9P4h_mYQZ3ixuSIe12lFueC5dGuuwSmi_7rF3rokPiW73nukI9SKZnRgB7wnzJqYGYtlCNktQMrtQ_mm79raJMcH7I-RzwF9Qxaljwx5rH3DeNRanpOVKWwRPaoPeGC_x9EiAsUS6hU3jLr5QAecBSUvaPF_iWOLcmbPK_d-2KuTPgwYB0GrX6zgxNTKNiTaarOlqNYz0yKiwbljc_QuqApRWt6spagYPPZD89E488YZNaoYbAdLJsdjcL-q7dQeJaaDzsSFNRm_keG5ebMOuqQS4f8VzWKmwLOW-S490k8uO0GJHalprWG5ieY1xnDsM-mHgR2aqrDnB5gvlRHMMGIp2jiiEPgsxy57mXGn6nKCb08Edl_AK_mFFRsUZFwsUofTXoVLzK-JgbyRDOVtFVFhNx7GQIYRNzdrIQa0Y_fi1w3mUzrTnHCLh0qzpqSD8GNhLe1-L-bE_JNIlSsAgWNq3PcVwgiLmBTWtMtbzxrdO7gCjT4gI=w800-h600-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 03 December 2017, 01:41 PM
I decided to take apart and inspect the auxiliary fan. The plastic cover snaps off.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/FE1POqN981KEEFTNDN_JHjhJ9rOY0IFaA5e5DeaoUZjY-ap88cyedqScmkHeJen3KOHjNxBYnRzeBxkgc68MmXJUrZHGTGKLWt-z9k5ii6f2V66-W15mfKf_V6JUdnf51ECGkXM31I8bB1QuwQhKyUNv9k-J74TsfgBE1pYxNaZ33X-krwbyJXKbqWDdhltrg_Pyfpcb-sWCvyJp1ZDxo_dIV1jS18kfT8jwLb-D1ci_2O1WRD4WHDJkQeny0IEkKr-wn24O5FGieQNkntaMQQ_tM0NGu0yQPx3p_Ps6S9MgTfHr_bnIDaV1P9sr58PvGtQ2ipcdZO8gYqz5vBqHjmUq1KlJz-vAvi1muOOmEBSCWJ2b1_dfI_HViCMcfbq7oTW29Jb9oVEgdiIXbPxyLDkz4ksr6yEVNRwP5e35a1kbMeNJjTVaod2b7GD_RgiczjdGhS70OZ06AwGv6r_TrKyko-ocAg1harsuZxudNrp0MXqaejvIVkn0_CTcKOhLwrUpu-KXNzBRisAlLZ-cnTGwV67_NA2NL56IEEQx9QGXl05LSHFk1-ix50FLWMhlz8a4NLIyp1Irt3atHrRt9FmYs4cgRPfysMoqvyAducQywTzUCc832pAfC6zmpTgQX4wWN3OvcTxUw12TBSf6jKHLTQyNTVY1lMY=w800-h600-no)

A tab on the nose cone has to be lifted up before the nut can be loosened.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Aus0QHNgQoBjEogyAfS8j35y2SlkPci62_ef4b-W2t4XCpCIAPuW5ll5uFzXZX02uBq2jnRMP1rDOgvQFCvDcjEnnGaG_TEQnQcNYu8ItLJJx-PLk_RDOBdZzjlMl4dcBPWv3RtPgOaEc1EZUPPGN4MkgGs0yiJZCOZlAYzwP8TtyGLiUDIFAQOSfcmAwp_nABrQnMwGQ8-pNM_5t_MEg9Auf1SzAu4ECNNZOFRfe1MuiGlOcMEBVmsOnPnNklodKxuWXvYsyGIyrR8y-PfZXdZil-i4SX6wpROCxeE01OrNRstL9MktGk-hqrEwYvDv7__XQ27KrUfBRwyYFS5YORbHuGJ72AjVCiorJ9jmQYKPbN-uJOOQIagW5jzTMB_hbPJ8qShxo3GYLM9TgueHZrinf9c3F7eFwzx7bxSQ7m-2QWQTwG8HY6fPgZ1WTjYdxcir_5PXnL1Y6ouflB_koPFuV_6yvIaXu57gECQzNWPjhVUCPggKzDwPfxKnwl_32fd6MGftQyX6ieLgKmxo164_eEtsbmL3LH-CBvIuEmLA8EaOf9fAMTaSj8v4ZA2bmzLZ5X-5RX3M-de_ZbfUXeUZFeglqG5x72WE-4bMeU_43z3Pb5OJTyejs3M81loyaBF72HFQ4JTzdVmFoA-Q6-waWMd4VyqUadY=w800-h600-no)

Once the blades are off, the motor can be detached from the frame.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/31bXabl41fKoiIHVP0JhXaOfKJv0oaM7FbBt-miP50MhFgoGfH0SAtp4NlQVLWULIGa_1j-5H3hYfc39O0790pL1KbrJaYOMSjvUhsVyAFpj4ov7vxveamfu7jVLzytRRyBEFS9mkqwT2-q--kZgyYRun1PeyF4fNzK0l25C85uVTbQ3hbMI-sjfM1l_3SFxzhivyczjcrTzPiqL3HHdGYASe0r-Aj9wwOy7YPD1qRJhqsZBzug02aZhBIzqZVHw4ZrZO3AoSw3H6IgTJ-jDJSr4c-6B_2PHkvW7UgT76F7ScFVCipPO2taDoov-ULXKW94ZOucoZvUWrYJnvue68zgjtiIRmtj5vAHQXKenbWhEBA6V60iX7gKex7-0qR_Jt1gpDWga6xiMjWSGGRL1TXA_tVeg_K9BG-gtH61CbrlbEHd25b8AAktLWlehM_ml3rwKR1Fs8rz5AeZgAj5HaZ78e90D5nXnYx6wJJh1hkJ6rrPFUvlwXF6OdZfiPd7oLAjvY3DSVFe3qRgCyH2kuEoRNnGflYVc_TiXHCU88aKh2qvAYp6wqKoe0PsYwm14JpEtkE6ca6nxLppgFLS-z5QrGxf6xDOO7EwmPTWLR6nTNiGLfqt3eqh5U2adJ29uS_aAnqQShtn3KVpk_nSvFTLVY4qVX5aIxCg=w800-h600-no)

Then the motor cover removed.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mPK28ZEEi4xncdSJTFMR0tN_qeAP1vL_bTv5g0hfmaJpzmFbAFQDzocnTePt8I1lh876NrG0nZGePTr29TRTAV7DUYAm7tic0RhF9t7gBn_OI7-aavXgjGnmjNrElNE-FRrBjPdYiOHThMXDxSasleS_ZqL9XGMEQThCskzA3BSE3ZAaPh9aKDtQUtWVDS-n67Tw7-6Nv0IsMjpVeVt1kg04H134O_BBBUE2jfmbLsQxMraHVmPdCv21KnXdgW0lONVJyKCaR8DlT0ZpKAz5sckmE7W1ZnAdj8OA7zaXl9vZex_VViin0I48odFHv6mqDiX1Vw5JYLRkCNylClz4iKWJNNZUbgPnKnrWb8OedN17TaZ900XKflvN1msQZaVW653aHC6KqSjf1Up2b6Fl64B6lp1CNZ4l6rTQYZh_J2JJQInL2Jc7A6GAFbzYfHI5YIzNLRCZgcnDMtUB0L36DxuQWdoHiFHA_2oVlCNM0tL5wKEil1fWZl6L3UxTGsfw_u6oJN6lS7Ms0NWHFqb3taWNbFTj-ERE4WTgn9Iy4SfPUUrvKqhjEvIO76TfZk1yfERj3XXP5LkDkwwt2pFNTTzoEziDMRJEC0fZBQHAPPgWikS0gFuRXB8v896nctp8u95GQhLrXA1JyVMNzsk1YBuz4akiDhKqjXw=w800-h600-no)

Then the armature slides out.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fb6PYeCzvZLipXjcyS7LDQMcOl4qYJyOtlw1XXS7nfwX8-Q9a0o0-wz7403kqUoJCnZyLXmTNEOKARnuvtvKlLBMFi60rXM0hqjDHal0ZgU3WQ2660QT07Aw7me64IsCY46iYol9XvTAJnxz80_FNghVpmZ3qKWoHMtSDdKZ5kPUvZO9IwaX_-DyXmHgK5lbA25x_88Wx-NNu8KBHLcuGRAxwmEA8QOtMv5c8ffjXxFAk_GLPi_mnWYWrLZIT6p8C-AhtyB8sMrhifuTbrnj0hAOjs7IojRJwjXJR1-QYgi--j9U7EbhTeERgdhKUUVr6cYZRT_L3BUfkBj1_7WxfQR54jIWtwYWriLknxZsuetC2ZU04niP2fWodyuhFCHh9c5HtiLgKLz-7vQQQCnw-supjg3ZkrCoQ0oL8Bg3JVb6zG-hkE3whJKWsg3oeyJz9L2LOKN4wYESk8kJbinOVtvTDpMXHClCk0bNrncIEs9G82Mc1jx1G-hXXDhqCEaf-3SR5sOecmuyfx70tzNkf-gZOmNxTz9hP5-CHqxfWJaLQI2POQ0YP_UltOguSZ0hGj1cu_DPfcnCgf7lY_wz6TDJ8Yrs6jZH8qSKL3RXOyy1zhSUHoGwqftv7lH-EE5rpRNzhYE1lByavRPtMCF0a_nIQ8X4LRQmg50=w800-h600-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 03 December 2017, 01:53 PM
The bearings are a weak point on these motors, so I recommend always replacing them with sealed units. To remove the bearings, drill and punch out the rivets.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HjVrTcUKJ2APXbozY3Gm7QyDNj2xqypvi3mYbZQmCuEoVd7U0mwC_XFLKMNId8zBqK2c8fD8un9cvM_N4rzhK0ZzC5wNz8Elz9wX9mOHfOxW4n76OokOOMTGbAwPkWPcaPPNe2lXBxZgmjLuhBzmqGxxWEpTnrFEVjnQ8h9c1j9FSdZuydyElh9iSch_8Q69kGxxvYjT0UP_efhnihWP0fsYpwxHdkr-ekuUu3j0Kitkomhu_FI7h4JfkMbigwxNWOFmNwZpTc_0mNvY0sG8IKB2v0feaO3o1JrvUV3I_bgSuZZheC47KQUJRelF-QjzAyp5zAkcRdK45VnWZLo75-YdtTGJhM5x4jmB5oS7pfbyU_mjOXQ0jBhLuddjr4de9x1QK3DAzcwQvECkzbv7thQbNb2teAfrswbp8Ml1_sb6uv8-6Ht1ytzWiZBxkItK_ORElw7QAjPmVCeVJ6-qWuCHwTJAai4EhXVqWCVIINu14IWFWm9XplVHaajLtpIDv_1kHgeUgZ-GsnV_3cNphMtSs1_FYMrjVFKvm9aFRtRC186n9Lk7uf1GbMvuua8kZGkiqoik_ICPcVJxaoNQvstf91eGsuqNNAIyQvJaX1SetIAv7JFgM6P-wgD5Ztu7VIdqiFKVrNhAOAVnU0I8bipmT9wrBIjb7MY=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yi1jP9Lfhh9AwQyX5bdg54gPpIqvRnqSCF3KQW7LXhwnPz8kBMIVe1zBMohwpnJ6dRMHbU7SGRS1puLDQxudS8MENwE4F8MR3Twvx-QiOUQCmITvSPTautAfzgfyO2wZCRnTwcPLCw21QtOCxtD1dY0T8rpouhlSzlHisIiplQL7MovJ3-IApHjFdxIWh7_y5EPelq4wOf2BMixNAxaHPs8ohc85ZeoW3zam6yKfu13Z2ZGxIFXHM0NswVp1Kjch-HxMTyBwaO_e7bCh1a7jIluERNjkJYPfTcY9vOFsuBbqxJpv96FNbQUE0_WLVTN2N6WW_6s-BtPKXAnfKNSDOj95dynyMXLYtnGia2CWj9Erg0UgZY53Jur1lOG2gz87PDraFdyLfyW2JcpGpralcA_j1fZTDkKCMs39_y0VH3Mg1B0pzmFuTgF4EqnvKCr3x2MQi4WmtwVFgQflWDE9FJWtIfSJV97NKN9wKOTjjMyzYxqc5pU5XxseNDUL9pb3z6PbiuO6stgJzDLGMJ6u1sC6bhARo-n7IJCvRBV6pY-a5MtCCR30V1dv8M5m1isRgZ3ULWF8wLuj1Fwn_pMZZddwOojte3PzymJHWzgcAutWcz3hPyzMG3zCiJ3OZkH1EHexJcSx9CuxzCGa2LKCTJfzs-tCkH6GAdY=w800-h600-no)

You can use a socket to punch out the bearing.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hd0SvGV2vO89q2lgpQvwsuW76yH_2mkgORMPvDxuLe3Zo69DIZew0t6mCpBiCvLLqdZ1BL4UVAjNmvSDYD-g-VBYjjdJ3GPiIqdUvwPjQpn-FZQit3KO8jtUs3q_pjvNFlGsBrG8Pp8T7azpVHsfFPQXLMR-rzqXGFaXT-jMPIMMNHGliB4UTqofQmc6tzyvlZ3vBdOgHpOnKWCRXwMXjENHy_OYDdP270AKF9hSS1hPGqyOxKwzn5tLOfwK7HT09FppKgcNC8BI7G5kaBdsdSXYMNfc0f4ImECdWZe6QU132NO5_t_LHbEWO55cmqT7T-8RSwSMJ7bHQhdqZ7kXgqmLUVyZFd13M-hz1tKDsI0kDAw5lrYUw1Z5Odj2L8O2qlMGjzBMckdBmtK7-xbJofRJIaK5cE0Mj6OHHcQ4JMxa7z5TxEFyHKPAnMXnXa-PeKdxP9PrALyUwxz0a2-I8cHOUPEYJZ-untZXve1tjtKW-gfVLugbY2Nw_8vnV5KM6j2100XgcEBBJUywyGdrp9oOynLtcaLqiSfVHXKkmm85olslGt-c_Ax7dQbIM0wy05GAUAsj1P-HKIGjM9cGH2RpGtWXPbfx-1-LJx2lTEz6AAxOT-dLNXAmciWOvbz0tnPkSXHhj3VT0fCYFt3tunVyx64UKwY_Nto=w800-h600-no)

You can take the bearing into a supplier and get it replaced with a sealed unit that will last much longer. The part number is 6001 2RS. The 2RS stands for two radial seals. It's a very common size and used in skateboards and such.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/YWog18s1adlWB2mFa8XrSDJ2OVuitIUDeZViCnl9-QJOCA48lAfjNIdCMNFiZuegQv5t8UzMxHY1B4WhEU2EJauP0oVLityyDJhbt_aamjEEb4ULywXM-YEo5Il3ZYHPZMSiDCx8NlBdBuPkvp_4v95MuM61vlNKrjH-CEtw1fsd__cXD6sP6cD0sA15heNm7QsVkummiegA8dQK8H6WMURvspRO4cVS7SYYcUKQp5jf7RtTj-2DB2bHH1BqajJbP9F6-eLde1pSqCgkVmDrv9jcwEYE2zEl9nedyz9ckx2ynatRBnwyutNovip3_rjB3mx9Fk40l37me9WwL_tmVIcM0EV-fX9x4N_NCbWWNVVbLDb2D0AVgtrimHotAW-QPfLkibOtPsY1DCHFNvgth_yTBRgCXve1-eRof6Z6Z2qc_QOF--tBFTChsSMKK9KOjzHxqZ7YdCCJs-SzvEU95ZjZLW3a6GZ_GwvMQEJLf6KnvGXHxInwfprJ2qrv9GmZxapC-jARIv3-Kuo7LOnncWfK84erDTEXFiqUlsjN3oIxVoYNRwf-Kwbfrja7phxLZu3OCPhHuPF9AF24ArRIE-5cADs-Vqs7M6Isupsm7r7zNrDBzBFeJZvGsqjxWfZi67KS-qGLjjUTSeNRZPbqOXxuux4Vz85iwkI=w800-h600-no)

Install the bearing and cover, securing it with new pop rivets.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pH6IW2leYFMR9xp78GCHFf92K_jep_jrcm-xVkoJarb5te_g6o4pZWDYb8y81pEaw5DrgChrM9N8zAh8e2FbKJsOD1ROgw2pLk-9zSZL3gR6S1qJL1FePFo4GjKcFT8kOwihW4fA0Npvhfw1QxXS6s_SESS2f8M9MKbz8PSamZXXaPpAeiHN4-_6ZTnzJ30Px0F_FkelJFhDGHG6nl3k6LKVzzNPcyP04MjqV3a8RPe5Q5Qjl9ij0RsL_NZa8WP5VY2eSdzw63uuPY-uXmefYpsVx9hwyLBuMRYYFX526jhJNReBCKkVVa5NoDqTfOg63hcXkf7lVpZp4jxW8YXpJyHu_UWD7yuCg4lC8II1Q6kSNLC-aH0MRZdJc4PZmVj2JwBY1Bo6abAGnJ_LutiY4YiSBAhCedLfPphbgVaGpLiZ8FwG1304c-R1scsi_81gIRrgsjbgJcQ4g9dqw9gyU0zytlJe8WzhXA3h-XL1HrE3JhCekr4zMovCQqvAGGkY11EXpH5GnQN-P-9GnDbt2V6TS1cUTxpSTTlv1WTsvA7D2qBcvnrYQiKmkUOCYJv-SECgdh1RLR0m9lryVFQGmqj-HX0wTXR1Q9CdofQNiDxM1YAUmqjfWExhOsgbxok5G0Z4bUM7zk-hbzZXJxYam3-MM3bkhPDrN38=w800-h600-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 03 December 2017, 02:00 PM
I lightly lubricated where the end of the shaft fits into the bushing. I cleaned the parts with electrical parts cleaner and would have replaced the brushes if they were worn down enough.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/B-vAFIFi6khocM3CyhiGpphUuOozSgP4tfXgUIIGRTmM8xJfeCwF8TgZhylzzkmku0skkVXJdD3V0twQz4vuMLPlplkv6qoX40DTfBf8LJ45oh2gOne1ULibkJGbcze8mHgNINTTlmmhbzC11tt2xFXiceb6dBQVFfEvftPNaQPIZLNK-PTPOYpWx27I_tS2sqf0KP9HtcVoOpUylxSvFKaMnE6Q2VCfwcYF690GZqP9o4jsEF521iNoIGUX_gJz7rqleZAWwMkIIwjTicAtj_1Q56PoBAxNE6RD4Z7xXronP9eWCTNTTK8HpGx2Txcpj-06VRi_urD1h65_RGlvvjFRI2Wc_a0e5Y-L1vGzpW-n5fqCmwDMg6sacrz958MTTYM2m04-YxLq7XfQLWwFVL6HQUvBCUzIXuF1OToIL4r1cmGzQuwcJ8v6kbTu-fiyOmQmCk1C3c1LATQgELG69zpJ6endHSzcOT1n5mckzvzbAVv6JzqdY1uo-ypg6020ANZglZCiR3mo7hw_3IwFdrgM0hVst6NQNFGnmzkq29NpYYizyAZwMdKWiy3PirkhKOKZJTiOILkh1Rl-kSl1mqXS58MVTHLf2IfCgTqobLYJ0aYz7r5EKv3Cs-qNXUckKNZLIIjfweTONJsW-8oZSE-UbA7qAJDT9ZY=w800-h600-no)

Put it all back together and stake the nose cone nut.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yuD4UOivo-4sYWXK7eMb01JNWjaDYFVkmwjdlFJHELUsAlF4qXlHUs0Cnt3L9NTqsryEseB1KG39o2beWH20cXghn0wRkGU5S7HwIANdiXgy3nrr62xxQTu02zr2CtYl24A73ptXYo1vYHK3TbIJ8L1bT8HKYYBvaQZAJdLPnhG4Ted-4ud0bA8IN3-PfJvJl6e_EDHUY6RcpJBFFEKJGUsZ1AfcobPQ3ujM2sQz8CEkQ_wyjvRQbiNRylCEpnWqjuRmJCwlFh8_RzSoMklNuvOhZqvNhzU6NZN3GrqE3rgaTRx9fBslls26-a-KkcbgVLgK53BEx6UzfpmOAuBJrTO0UFVCKhiERu7jE7LivN9uGcpaBRrlaLIuieS4GndveV7uVRvNSOhjtKq1ZB9_6sO-c69bcu0uTbHGThrOB_sgwVN-xIgL-3ZzcM6Pen6zbmd_U_bKJS5H80hlcr2KEsGQ8MoGdmZNvDpn1LekyCf-vtj9QKdzuIDU3-2A91fZzdyhJaWMyao40p-lCU6IxVkRYPUV29u_qQcH5eo7DWnYR66StGp_nqEvV_P1Qv-V3P7QjYj3VAVBPQjZiv4fabFUJ0Wis_J6HXArk1KwYLsDVcwQgINzcqUHH5OaOgqnFgZzHsiQmlsTXkSj8hM2ooT35Fkdf6xYOZo=w800-h600-no)

I retaped and secured the wire harness.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/WszLIp_s_Qiwe8pUs9BW7NS65iJcJ3kGDuac6rEX_AZQQIiivJEZl8WC291QvWRhD_x1z-Xmg-5PqbeqE-BeBSncNDk2PR_cMu_ldSStuWcrGmOqZmuwRr2GM8JwNa9fD2qfk7KBPqALf-hp9WTciSm8Sf_CyUThUaLOMNTQ1unWydPLnzNuy5v3za61bYeDrmWVSIxGtZVlK7czYPG2F1enaT45VwBAm4gBjZpD35h8eVtktI_9AAe4jWXghjQKtAVf6BubJA7MzYVWCw_wOQzwpkyJNTq3ztsGm9-AhUUs_h6x1eASZV4M5VLu6dMboCSNeV164YWDBZiydiI10YNsompU88ik1Eflfg0NMpvNZvuFfqK10NzfkKf3ahSkmuzMUYY0Lyr8GBBJVKPSsQzux-kZhBPL-re8fP7-XW7xIo9nG54a6cycGEq4Na1ozMkkgd5wG88SkFfNSxsQM0z7LfLfpORHr6JcyAWZUuXbVIb1dJNyLLJ8cLfFPPEWlxOqdMaJgjLxdZ37iGXqaEmssxiP2GbappDpNHqEWC002NOSrEXQ_61TNZDfMQzoYcMnlq9kPM4rstrXeYF0yglKYf7xA7rl2AwysW6M04PSLg_a8yiwZ7ccweuP_3Vd_1MQAro2dkgwhx7js7Vk3NTC4xh6g43AaN0=w800-h600-no)

I cleaned it up with 303 Aerospace Protectant.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HVJqdVIEJAmdu22xuQNo269CrB6OtteFXSG_SyS0wuhcsbbEjjEsfDGR6Ctn-lJEo18F-jdY6054G96dezBpoWWDfSxnqJcNk8z-my81SF--ScPFv7MIU283rIyzXvSWQoetmPbkILswOrxPqmyZQhQtrH_b4RBhi9yvTEPGkzffbnbzyqoukYRh3AvblUbmJQJ6gdH9CpjMd3qO-u8VSQ2WYTVB5JmvW5kBNf20gNVyhVNnu2l-mfZqq1U51RzgF4eZFVAa0_wHs4KZzK7Q6BXIlHzD9rb4JVZc43gRlakybdk_lSzRPZ5yBjf7vDNKVjiVir934tZ7pfnN5SEJ4k1k8OLFYV9JOoMSwuZv0vCPj1ljBnZEaYnobLjlMWHvx3H03VgbmIXk3zi390ja_2kruvUaVDpzPIfqt_JPhHYQ-Ee79c1sUP8NhrQOnBww-friY-7bVk__fs7x8tf3ebN98Sr5CVixIS-CYDFp6uOk0yvi5dABxFzlFBRGxVTp7bJD07v2Mj5KEqvv8-B8e7lzH1ZfyzFSaP540MTd4UwlV3PbllgDppvLXw7BseemJTIerqiVE2bea9MOKja_bVDiAdIa0WsUL_T3VB12DVFANwmYXGbZvS-SyIQmXPKYKZPV2UgIXjuReNhco8-nbpx5xxwEAU2c5HM=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hjbV7UlGcYhRJ9SniUKJUdLXQ3nhEUlN5jl7fq4Oc3q6t6kGU2SSvJ7fsiiwNoLZpkunP7vhGOi6b9562Y2I9zXsHqzpZ-YnIu3sNPKmzLT6y2jlhWtVijmagNOBQFB2YvUumfe1gYsj26QlOvGqPUXSHjpGb4MZXNHFnWfEzPIlvw5lf8KqxyhvfxSbzZ85M-pWbrY1ydjv3U9p3cxven3JBxFL1RAnRpEbEPciseYkEpW_x5D5Ejk8JD9UFMBy6PCQks9se0bFrUGRLFXav4n-SqgEfL31M8-8k_3pkAKdHZLtUnv3kf61HFsXqZaq_0s0fbixjB8ssxso3YDERDjNLtbOIHviLtqHLY4OYS56HhImwsJ6T4ZMD_n_6A7JFCdV8MFWopOkXCGvHYsbIoraLtKIiN0dloBtKSX7toZmgkJ-VLluglfCkwN4MlH91zRYSPo52njcDD_O2LelX87Gw4n-APX9LBxdWYCX9XuF3m9EZYxyr95_Fry4Yt9gYS5KGNdLe99yKviNyWdzhrzhq53qot3m2RcyuRXBG2pt8ehaz8VFe2VgyDy-IQqeCOCbaonNey-2COw2bZ0RAft9SvoKuixksd-EYXrHt48nsG3XXHnwDkRZ5KxN5TYztLmpOEfyDGRCHqlwtG1fyjJVa1y4ALpjW0k=w800-h600-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 03 December 2017, 02:09 PM
I cleaned the condenser, brackets, and pipes, and had them powder coated semi gloss black. The condenser came out surprisingly well. The only things I was disappointed with were the nuts and bolts. Usually they blast them and then mask the threads, but they didn't do either, so the threads were clogged up and it took a very long time to clean them up. then the powder chipped off of the heads because it was too thick and they didn't blast them first.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7UYUNMmEjgf1xcKI-3hLo-PkUjQCs56p_S3KSSJKGp6KR9XGzV8cQzqM5MIn969SEcod8ZwoBAEZPvaCaJgCrfIWCwc5hSYpIJc-8CDOEKowxUKqi3qwDWilrjZcVPo-lJMkS2Yn5A6qGolZVKvcWXfYlregYe-87X8ZMjS0-4OrTdlhOw2jOYeSw10D4rfTpO9Kq5gGvwDPAZPI57VKvytIbyOhAGcJ1_a2RRH7WzGRSIvG90YMWw-RouqswiffH_nv10BLrX8tngQvuL_Kvfc3gkXEdq7BbIzm-7X7ggx83TROi9pxcguNxBQFOJImpUghk4mphEOiR--n6AGBQHf78LcUGEoGIfeF4-4jrvzM-aKlK2jEcW0sA1raXLV7IeFH6X-LsOAyqBUUB2DB4PNS6zfCgT8cQuxsl-huJgVPt-fTbw5vFnGsVCBVe7PajbhZu-NYGMboZxxm8-EmgkO77OGeolqf-Xcw9GCI7_Q7okIpsjeTqLWiJCNQ-1PksYFyTlzFVUdJFhrfYYzjQN84m6p7l8Y2CPEXOBP4XUwHiqPPs9RDBDKWXlDfVQPyiVLBboNp_0MTnq87ZcJqpdKMlwUsAOXDGW-rG38EClbeIY13K-BSZr6L-wSNlQ8iaJT5iybtacq-1GdL0fXIIXAoc80sCAxl77c=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7s86AyzG8awaSJGl-6jFy1feKNKEKd7X4p3RgdDWGfLE0vJfpfhQ6YXqy-DOx7xuE2ww-btJu5DuiOcxPfdsCWrc-wDxymAwqa9v-VTzdrg94ONWXVvtkf4UumgoVVPTqZAc5kYN21fRGpJ5Vl_DVfzDh3uBmMgmPUExgf8_Qygk29PgeCqflyYpfak6PgV5pLAEAjA4kZWYh1oJhA-SkKEwqfQL98JxCY96G9Xs9I8sRVdIbgQ4g6MLSLoyf1UDDClzwEKkEb8OGLx8YycN5OFSL_DbQJL8anb-2yDK2mqhcdbY4i79Pa57Yqfk3HX-Bbxsw4qhU7cfnLVGERQ0tOOrCPWdt3XquGEBfIU1Qin7xeIG1674TQhMYf3ptlgmz3VhzdtxMjsoHG1M88nnr88tcNlu8CYXvIxXt_D9ULupNdFEx7bTmN2dJLurhkBs7tisNnER2zGdqWOK6J2RD1JcEWqvK-gfDDI9HMxkuKyF3B8ehFZNuDHfMN5pLE97YGBqmyiVTpw50GsBmNtDV4J_1GTacUW0BM7jMccPou0tsRYzNfEOlIHnxH1ODeisJEBqloRQf9iQ8anoRlNEs_-3gYEmHsDUbDKgDQ95YCvaRgfG7zpEEj2M5C8i6TxORzRl_C-F3rgwLKiVSTYHu98Nv7EfDS8W8gE=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/n8-gkPr2AWlH2zaWrylIEkIF3RFFpSZBk9h9qpPuTifLXheXdRYZJ2Tw8UxKRbGdVoWqEYDS9WP8D1-aLFs-DxIxEu_ptbjw0oLGJeBf_06ouzb-D76rmeow9Z0vyv8rEuTPK8tgyaDPmFV9Y9I5kCLNqdDSNAZ5Ec6RHVz3gZaPQ1xJAAAVgDjR1CusyIr-5KtWOVxhD0cFAmb-akmiXHmMw_hpaAy8lsNYVJnikqlfTIRXZ5BKLAULymofI7cqlULj9a2DZvvOLkKsfTdVUmobfW8W0NMcru6lfe17NPLP3lNeJ-_OoLRdbibxQcGlrxv9DPmHAokX84FXTiniui8JXLAdlw-kVy0LhLYcv-xJwRaeG_VFieomz-nAp5vyJCXTGUwg0zmKLU_52pAAeIpGNNvXwpSq6WlposPVo54823pwab8o6gwOtDvHV8Ixcae-ogtl0XpVXrrsFFRic1NzgejbrVRD7sw_fdcsMPMhFPTETCV6dEjR0nmLmSZQ-O8190j9xhJdPfqALqpmQk0QSUoL9hAkUwNC94lO5t0qbl6B-Ew3M7Feu1GLlGIVw7keotnDChqzdRQRS1FowrArbTmzlvmevj1HXGhqvIBJ1p1whAiWbR8LaxaDk7WAnQmtKFMXRXWErb03njCHcGdhbZqLuU8eNxk=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3vSkF2kVSIYcrk_qQ4pK2Wo0mbVyLgWvZIeAePEPdaZyEWkpbuHE7Dq3BS28XNmiD4s7Kag-rrmIxIkI2-xtoj6nIWRlpyxCOdMUhWvIHzKMd65aGXKcALN000joJnprlScFbdAaxuevWg946ZcQMtnfJ5idxjmj387NNaUe5fO6PPrW4gNKyvZCiADx2ol-2SBZQ4fOGxAVIxOTv6S5PyKkAs409cPA-oyvRaRUw0GI6hk4WzWNpkGs3Vm8AlOH2KQL0dtE-LOkPHf34lYSGL6AYH0sqn2LucSXngl53RcZf3bN35_UI_cjGv7WTet1pgoGbqGK4xmKXPl0_n3UxmZ-I7gFelA-EbwkjPFKn2uxlDTOHk1NlszUwp1V52G5jOW47ShMB46A4X4z43H5NGLGyv4Mm41srkUQcxxiiTxrDM7Y2fCjypx8RzF1IdpWnb7f2yya41aaH6eIJDypVkjt3tVV85RKynmsChLr5jUcM7c5r4tS3WnqqgJ-1359UZqNh-B0Plvd3-HZHPwzwNdP3SgKgFNxa4YRd4y1_cfLDnnanUi-lQojgr8hWEQ-qa9ENBGp8ijDpJo1cuXhQNuQm8xQYEFEkfeLPTw485v9ZSIi8BqAy9ToVhOJ7mJezfZ3T_dfsqwR4UGJkzeEOlykaMyh--Rl2jo=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mBZpZ4l4MmV_KSZ587ZkJzac9vgXgFsuYNkzupNQB-iBqGP7PbLRoNS7cl-U0r_jZgRCpE9L-yytwk331SqNBMoF3i7_P81rQHgbPQeOuI8qPn5rj8qicjEHABjp6UwR61vdyvag6X4uNWdyIdEWOzT05XvFEW1oeuW9oamPJK-Xrn9Ibqq2SaudolYwQ6MFtqh2SI4doTCGvNRYzoWJ8jp9k-JEa88WjKXjL44RKl5Fm6vK2_dQt8SrUKcd-Qf58U1U8QbxIXNUnVcVyUQhAH0_IhoVeVdCPumNWjb6Y0mCOMiDRLW8MkzSWzU5vXuT6qpg3dsx-F1CcF367pruHx6fzvhQN7FX4oiLYKuLCuKMxTrZ_XaFCYxM7wM2oZKwtpn9aWS0Kf-W_xUCslB3dBKgEJpPb1K2mSx1YrC9kBYMLJ6amHLYR5KAYf0C92F-L2ptXO6X8alDxgdWNPPBM0CdHUk0mcD5kW4ChWBc6wyPjLb3qVy5N8dHxZM0vMTHwaVgUu5ZsFQrvhnEhLV9-o6MQMBvzNNquAWHNybG7p1cr5ip0y5cLz_ewOKa35RnNLbIpIkGF7SA5SeqKjpMKjYokuqXzadW1oxlksRNTHj3Hbdc73YHdgRVIgVzgUIj2BdtuF_OS9sD4OcgRg53qosFJipAZz5mkzw=w800-h600-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 03 December 2017, 03:12 PM
The shock absorbers were worn out, so I replaced them with new Bilstein Heavy Duty shocks. I sold the originals on eBay to someone who is probably going to refurbish them.

Even though I did a complete brake job only a few years ago, the pads and rotors were worn out. So, I purchased new rotors, a parking brake shoe set, and actuator levers from them The Mercedes-Benz Classic Center. They rotors were pretty reasonable at only about $35 a piece. Made in Egypt. I had them cryogenically frozen down to about 600F below zero and then gradually brought back for a cost of about $100 so they will last longer.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/y6NavaSPkdq72emRN6bWExMFG2pS4766DmRHJ1fGvxpFIfbvkHX9hn05wXyJQREq5sCsim9epy9vuS0IS2-JymXE6YqZhTPXfFDusFxaIbVkSY5XB4Q-QvvTWlBkIWXlchRQI_soIRDcVY2_ricqFNthPcVGhe_WtAP-jFZtbqVLfxSxWtGuFqXOvU33-QoJ95qgjWN1eUXcTUtBrsBKw_AAYeoY4wkbKZZ9IaGAlx_rXMr-cyW6Tm1hmfUoZoDPCfwwpUnqQ2T6AWaaplqvv0k8m7T_MVOsdccXkIXcQ2S0aX8gd_C1TgobWaIcLDzHwJyl_h4ZMY6kR6U1X6Gx_K6GMV0ln6USVzFyoAA_ldEtFhXgNVdL2UN4IEZlt3uPvmGbP8y3lISCBtY0IaR3tDMI1dgklZgtmWNvWXEWEcbZ39tEeS2mDYBOybtH21fzXpQ2ALQRFdcFyj1GMvbQYa08CX_9WWUKUnTWaYLgT9jZmMq16EpHot705Joq6OiFdjOgta27-QhpcbS0kA7UDMrMcPwslnQk4_7dPNrM84_0l-dWQiAAAem-xj_MoGtAfRy1WNhyJGGkhjcfS_ONdSVB9ujlY0B0PFf_zjPVze6S0JlfHBvzzdtbaSrJ1VDeC8PJCS23-mvfJGb7-kGKF5Fjj1zCZNs9hf8=w800-h453-no)

I bought new wheel bearings and a genuine Mercedes dial indicator for adjusting them the proper way. After the bearings have been tightened up and the rotors spun, the bearings are loosened again slightly and then adjusted while looking at the reading on the dial. The stand mounts to the rotor magnetically and the tip of the indicator rests on the spindle. The rotor is pulled forward and backward firmly and the bearing nut adjusted until they are in the 0.01-0.02mm range.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/by6EscpR3Rrob-JCvp547O6tTxn1K7cjii6yBdMBja2m-S4Fx5eCFA5DrkNVMjYCKV_iPG_hitVp-8P1OWdu_jUBDebWBR_avzoQ9YgNzDIjybLZ3k4jaNULyccRTbp0VfXHo3pOX8cK59a0ZaPEsxVQemMuowxkqlvCYVVu1n9-bjc9bUwq0S7rC5A6q4XR6WfrYin4ps17ZIfBdCtcC33FGoaBtAVw6Uo0Rp0BpSePHEVFfwZtxsr3Jnz2p1DvM3Le4o-tgEBmGtOh30FXJ3Mmjfs_iVshVIHsdHzbAWmsn3xKWAuyjfyI9lqzk40IFGpEzi905_DAM4iwXgVy7SaCLe0xOZElmXlEsFALXLLBupV_uZFoaJ64XWzS6pwhmVaz70M1b48766-Ppv63IPYnCLmYJWr23eN09iqlFv_veZU8gj8YN_2E6AeE-3nmWXadYXxam-qWQYcqE2PmtBWKc8uZUohWTbmCAXOBVWt5L2e1EVGSrvMMV0mKMR7nrFseihXXHRLD4pm3YqBxBoEzqi3NmAgunLGr962Ay9768VIKcW_Pu94Igkf7Zc7wtsdQUVVvKOe3ejjcBVM1ZJuEm_Gpn6atpM93aegIHrxyvwgUQeZWaOPJoH2YBm-2hXv8tHgtMYbtS450H22_B7EetikzB882jvM=w800-h453-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/WN57nuShLqr1KfJg-NI62a7Wusc78TrsqsYMAetVlTNe_CTTeaJCNuo02PfTNtuki5O7avS6zWRW3xmf3dKvdHyi8GbmavOHck2zIP_Bh7iYm05lErbQmrmXEXrIjBd7P7lN3gLRt-f5y4H7xwrGp-tMMKM8WdNuw7N_EAYDGfB1iyTSFbdJv_LO-6hk8WxT7BspzGomt4nHzrkJNnJT5JbsYAi6rRcWQjLT1NUqkfaJMqsHPdyLfEvZDgMNxw7hqss9CnOxdpd1QhG2dNYqCGb_YpgFAEJYL0YmNlym7wRuGZcW7gplScQ6tJ9dp7OXJmpPBPhgcU4Y_-eHyw5l9D9mhpRFUPrbsxYKF8ZhKaZIcfta0nHUwDH8NQxVJ9dSri4RCyGMUnhjCxyvwn3B5FLRBo-oNwd7dGFvetNSYWvIRv_y1HVWTiFMndH7JKo_WOQz5kMbem6pG9dGxVU8fHZtojqLJstgT4ROFxhvVgHJoLdfTWE0Pq_atJbOIuMuVM-7Oqp-PBMXjA0wggpl3lxt2OkkpUYOEmUHw71kDyy7efCq5VjZDTk_O1xYPK4LQzXFQw9bpHIsJkM3I-6FfU3Zlzc1BYhY2eRptp9dmdHNs4OCT1Ao_EcDw-mecCT4DXmIffYmaMpVZ7lRc9YyfXyXd38e5BzJu3g=w800-h453-no)

I also replaced the rear wheel bearings, which was NOT easy! The axle shafts have to come out and it's very tedious. Once I got the rear hubs off, I took them to the Mercedes dealership to get the bearings pressed off, but they looked at me in their clean sweater vests like they wanted me to get those filthy things away from them and told me that they are not a machine shop. I had to look very hard to find a machine shop that would do it. Tightening the nuts that hold on the hubs takes a LOT of strength. I had to use a breaker bar and a couple pipe extensions and broke a socket while I was doing it. I had to use the dial indicator to check the play. The factory service manual states that if you tighten the nuts slightly too much, you have to pull it apart and use new spacers.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nWK2-j90uVMfCWThqbqSVa0lP54LYwhchS6dlimJiqduO2evb4TCDNdCAmMwG1DFldLC3qxW_9rZSafJ0QxHUTFGWhodRz3SzlLTfkiXB8Z-oqmCBVZXwFqEvimC8MkxanZ4fWqAb-0CLHKK-dNJjrVhpwE40YZRvIP9ZFmWJkCF4Ip3bLyitAuUn9ka954mPixkvnjL0bT2mgQNPxYEjMz8VcvsCy8PyHLV2m6-kyhrhP5iMbx4PcWM3jCsoWuQjLmRaF3m9Ln39Y2TfRlnQb_h3e7nJ656J2N_cCSWjxVikHfHI-qmxSTD0vy_459gF48Qsv2KzmNv0lNt4kcSjPftvRxeOutDJqo7mj6qf-8xsEDk2pxaVzMP2C7knSnU2TYcI320skbnyCNQYNd6cwtVQRmp7ebbFPN6nXjnwH7U5eN95BlwUs1hJBMtFo2gSoAnnoTobSJ7HSI_16o7aCyCfOmhHJqC0KyD7aUWxGJcIF2JrrBJ1ak4wxGL4ukmWJ7Az-1wMT5yu4hCdLsgetbe1zmKjl8jxceIAU1uoWuodtkQhoyObRpULX20aIZ7eZsu7w7-rbeOPkKv9nkclxghIcXjV5FKixpSOlKnDSpm91NkCd2ChBNLuh91bCIqF2OB2Zd_x3u2V3CDWCVRsJ6TbzHjByumydY=w800-h453-no)

I was getting really annoyed with the brake dust gathering on the rough surface of my shaved whitewall tires, so I installed Akebono ceramic pads. They don't grab quite as well as the softer OEM pads, but brake dust is no longer a problem.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qQksYlcjOqp-ZKib-Ol6BUFzE0YztfzEbgOw97vGGaTBfCGpY89846vSVXJp7XgaTnft5ogYJd8IgKdN17n53J5ssmkVM7ppyOsK90CIHteKBE69Rdg525IkBJZMxN1gZyRPY_QCvtbMC2njkb6n3DQDRM8xtOapD0ranQx0CaFuFH0hJoOrALiLFqNds7yq397poUPbgkjMaE4qYy8rn3r9GDsymebcLXiMHBgL2kkXHnWRYUZqsR6kfd39Kz6KLXNj_9wBAb-0I8m4sd_36CCYl0cfIdh2uDnmDjlXohcYBGTvAY6N68YzUkU6KIrZIJbDijXAT51TxyMxkq-_-7W5iHAP2ujEl7vKV3zDyCu-9XNiGMToyT5TNSdo-ExmfF-q8lRZqqOoq2QJKGp8MvzjVqMf2JftSDIl5vtXBoctcwFwpIYbVhmXuDTBiAKo-fZlKildkDkjsHldUj5BTC6XyygEXD4cTnuoaPFFeAmV9BdOZy63WRNW9k-COpnBPnBFmVQDEE8MM1W50LYlnRywP2w-CuXtyi3UddWxLQcKu6gkJQnKsLT01XWRVItSATXVIbDXIiuTbiHhJktKgkXKZhM3UDAhxw4hbAUTlQcjzo7r6zmaodlMgt0bR9oPCOERlMpUizy_BJk3ziudfme03uinJ4WfrFc=w800-h453-no)

It's been about 2 years since I installed these brakes and the rotors don't appear to be worn at all.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/d3UthIZeYOCi-HW47R4R_UrftwKfzkw5M8ePr2hgIY5e7QVJ4UkldcBZJUao52Gs6uevA0K2lKlKllCDOvCeD2PtjEWfivJkYaNVmArh5ClwXqlCfDHvgKGXujVAW2P0qityckAg17Etlh0KxJmGreQADXxGhMB4SUTdI-Xw7qM9JIC391x0Va7VMmzLFHRL9KLwWUxIxxsNi032W9ScuRUo9jUrZulpNOcxyi9swZZJc4_EaZ1QTcVUtgGTkwacnF4shjxcMq4dXnWnBrGLf8rTedq6B3xqEAT4Hi28lrhy452AVv9pHvib5DWqeYbHiYQldCURTqKbfisfGWZQ3jr8zxcc1j5ZVbKxCa2Ie7FQwx5STCbLLZ8RfKxzuvfl7T3hDvYChbvH992D6g8WFqahyNNEUeWnEiY1VsgOWWRpB6K_prGTEcAq6TaG73KA783-yK-UZOW9nMktfF1_9Op5auerqu9Trlk5WqerK-F4NT8W3OXJmlF-yOMm_zNLYz-enFTC8Kw06e7nUP0kdNp9UOnu8E29sjCQD_evPI0KwJhQXbtsN4WjMDp_do5BIsrpvfq51rcC3GZKwKjfX7t1sr8BwlZd4LBocpWBIbJjwd4j7YTCDwmTxwh7Y5jrZ1NOE1-6pETUS5fUpgNWIIYmkcvv7H5KIb4=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 03 December 2017, 04:02 PM
Even though the steel wheels on my car were in good condition, I was wanting to install alloy wheels that accept wheel covers for less unsprung weight and a smoother ride. The steel-look alloy wheels are seriously lightweight, even lighter than bundt wheels. I had a set of the alloy wheels laying around, so I cleaned them up and painted some of them a little to cover scratches. I painted over the silver lines with grease and then wiped the grease off after the paint dried in order to mask them.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wGMIL_QwIzUY6-VmtnJtHvH86L1LtTejsQvVkV-Ywf_hYPXUV4zYLmqG3ayFmy42mdnQMlacdK6vwHOxHzo4JS3r4zG-TvqGiMiaIE4cK1Xw3gg7v9gATvQOClzbUKvwaFjdKFX5PSMbkKLFe_RYrokzf8y7ztclFQNGuIXQiVS-izpja2WCsWoGJ6vDq8RuCvq7IciJYne8mXFb5-Y_eQMEabFX__K4uhAWvW9441p1SMuLm6JMXD8UOiSuyBtIpDvJmXVGSJlYiU_Q_kQlNYIX6SAQA6JowURftEi6JQBjPuOT0rqQr-UEKbEnF8hDllpCKSyqp2QWQaFreWxycSVi5us6qfQB7zvRI_MOEAU4YSlnCF99jDeLPfQaRziBmgbZl4Ppjhl8VFgY2pk7RG5ih1DP4n02Q3-ZkY8HWBi3k3_v_diXLqyGbWXToo1-EZ5UIgL6te5rjroRpmz3pS6I-0xlMNNGsE9EAJiecRAzX0KkYM5QYeW3l60n4Q8Rshm74qt4TbXs3Md6eraMYDBVeazZnoEq6Qq52scXKs5A54RIVt_fHFc0Py9oLEPjyJyoBM1NyZODaKuwQXUwkOyyWTQOm0ZUj2t7ZXewFkkW3GT7a8lTp24_z5PlCD6o46IK7jH7LK3D92Hp1Y28E4l8H-gJ33lwjpM=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9j8c1-2zmBvtAaY5riK0foWo6KUblLsQUwVHp4S1WpIo9sOTk9kyzGrU0OlLhVYZHERvbCb3ZJqJmPifSqgCZDY1ixAu2EjaASedtJRm4-jiyJWGZY4Ns0WrHJeGSdrhWDjdt86e0sjQHXcaRepJuv9422dA6BHFoWrZgBZkvwRe4pr6_J8NlZTigIu4u-gKSqbvZJdjuWQ5HVUZSN_jYaU9P1JrtXb2yo-2vIvW7P78MSaSAHhoJFIlnGlPfk3b_75V8tOYvmO4fFEfYNX1csV1_AwpWQxtNPQryuySlkfOex4ANjFD4DXM-hjEf1l84VknebGgoKM_LQzMh5VDpGH3zfhFnVhfQIygxXmQGe3gVeMZ9zilRP6tQnpNUGkbNhHRfm6U2ejWDWUe-J8MBCDYZrOvONY5VpCoGBgHKn0-oQwwRi4Ca15fBC10yNuzvNGsBIDx_O-8Rqys7vW7KOltz8OiH07zpPcTeKYZRU4X3F7MS0L9ugSzso5GcHPxiwkOQS1j8uhCr_kwEnmNd-q6X5_wCfaYSc1G7dZHHOAe7ipSAJp5zARc65gQhv9cBweW6R-KNzWo06XL6C-rtLMS_OfEZ8aPOC9XTKNVxra0n-gFkLWdUkXuzowKlsxcPU8kJeaW1x6ZSps7zpsm1ctI6Ud8M_dpxiQ=w800-h600-no)

It was an ordeal getting my tires dismounted from the steel rims and onto the alloys. I told Discount Tire that I needed five tires dismounted and mounted onto a set of rims that were in my trunk. I opened the trunk and showed them, even the spare. They told me $80 even and I paid. I asked if that was for five, and they said yes. They said it would be about an hour and a half, so I walked to The Home Depot.

When I got back, I saw that my car was in the shop. I sat down and saw them back it out and park it. I waited and then they pulled out another customer's car and said their car was ready. This happened about two more times and I still waited for them to call me. There was a lull and then they pulled out another customer's car and called them. So I went up and asked them if my car was ready, and they said yes. They had just skipped over me and then forgot about me.

I went out to my car and looked in the trunk. They hadn't swapped one of the whitewalls onto the remaining aluminum rim (which still had an old tire on it). I asked them about it, and they said that I had only told them to change four tires, and if I wanted the spare done, I would have to pay $22.50 extra and wait. I told them that Richard said it was $80 for five tires, and when I paid earlier I said I wanted five tires changed. They said that whoever said $80 was for five tires was mistaken, and that $22.50 extra for an additional tire was a good deal because they are doing two dismounts but only charging me for one, plus they have to pay an environmental fee to get rid of the old tire. So I paid the extra money and had it done.

Then when I went out to the car, my metal valve cap was missing from the spare and they had installed a short valve stem that didn't match the others and wouldn't be reachable under a wheel cover. So I had them search for the valve cap and install a longer valve stem. I hope they rechecked the balance after if it affected it at all. Such a pain.

Then when I got home I noticed the wheel weights were loose and one of them fell off. Ugh. I crimped them down tight.

Anyway, after that was done I went to install my old wheel covers and they didn't fit. Dang it. So, I attempted to install the special Teflon-tipped clips for alloy wheels into my old wheel covers. They wouldn't fit. Seriously? I determined that there are wheel covers for steel wheels, and wheel covers for alloy wheels, and the clips do not interchange between the two. Fortunately, a friend sent me some wheel covers for alloy wheels, but I will need to get around to painting them to match.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qL-8t-kqKK-h7v4bOGofOPEw21A86xDziszS4886kvH-AVkgXdNw6HeLirHbbdjP0ZOuN2EQljcJz36RWyKeviEABGA3jOKAQkCsQrOoZLotQzVDKSjuN5ToMiRW9cDH0UOV9j_DpGtDRkdP1T3GQMw-q0swgEwuXpNzIKp1x2W0eoEea7UvY32TYTXlXBcUhXt9qhrLh5V54f6J-cS3oHY-JEU3LNbEOUP1gsSxISFmL3iMhvp5jJ5WY_HKD0OHwjUTXE8JSKxvaE24j1jgmvOgqgSzUJ8H8ChEvnXHIYWPDa-Loly7mrRs8eCl3b0WCReHoXi9fRfy_h5emQJiQE9P9T5iv1ztm6FA7ntbGvDFjzxzrNqUhwYQCgkw8TTrGt3lbGZkV5C2rXMti5lkJaUBC42MxwP7bUuFnWjtBvH79HHt7zPHptoryjKFN5YPpcOLfheL4Fwsp2Kt1zP6uoGi0u8lbsMPX3EbPoOnc0HD2PTW6mzGRAhqixC-7Wl34WAkSSfx0tj8uPJPwqfRZJmoyq8cmT4iNYFBRIcdwFeiUuzzVm_5CiwAJH3-IKsobmYbG_QapBUVjo2_0qMTfHdKC63Bp4-RrH7I5t0uqPp-5B-cKq0waeLyP2cv-f45RbJL2TtLaX8ie6W8c2pOS3uBCqZ23WoyzMs=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wjz5FDewo0c7ZdAaYzSJm_X0JV63qWkhG_hZs-nh_-Z616ICwgaAplxiKiVxMQvlADNpKObn6wMum1P3XrY4ASDEm_xqHGBGlIipsJfHqpKOoeBZAqG7-ABshnyErPW_j_bu2HpNoee-l3yzOUEi7NrhzM6lDZ3UMW3IIDLbx8SI6ILUC3NHncMHLBCOfBBZ3Lrlj9s5-kvm6bIi7HL861j0iEfrhF8lNOyzSMmfcmTXr_O9vI2dYz_-rEvqePnFXneMjBZXf6ocUuMp5THh0EhnuVQ-U4bYJZQxVnrTubzhyJJTgKogOhY0hu_-VzCFPQt8TTMUHlp4DBxB038ECmjxJMcX41GdrjORiqhmFJO_uyLJl-TL2vAwes_tV-Xp8Ro901pJJOoi__8E-lDbbHuQQ4YcOBXwu0B6BcY9-cpzf4JcUgmOWgIWETUAbCcf2XdJSs58jetcNq7zWsQwkN789Ru6V6k9QIuUvpoicj2r4pWE61ZzGmzXQlBnM9ixXN1rsLNl2KTeU8CN9vF90h_mxkLwf3jtBpm9BUUaI_fIcWxcxkx6BIQhUegF5Wd-o458SiVZArnraxa1-hwJmVuwy1eeCofqSYtJzgeZDZnYhfxasRfvuTozdMvy8neBoMt9-Og2DzozT6jJR80odAAEgMa8AnAKQDM=w800-h600-no)

I had a bunch of Teflon-tipped clips powder coated and ready for that day when I get around to painting and installing the wheel covers.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/40aL6dPqqSoBfeXBPA46lUe-iti1ggmOrkGoS3ZVqS0X67FwoaIS6zRZFdiM_JDG3dyObAPuL0ZisVZhnutZyCJSJ04sDmgHuG4Y2f2LFzjkPZAqb7eJZxLGeupm-j-VMRYuhDTuDeL_PqzwU4sSo_BK7zCGDkT5DRM6cvpCNRepWVNj8KfIAMmgzJaK0n-g5CpHv1NVWsaYjJCfx72x1V0Cyt3RJ6bUebtQlExTOghzirP5CPSuW-u28z2GBjDTtAdOKWYOIRsSXUjUB4YunkIcJlfZMtDHwBEH7xiHIL1ewbHygCjcn_ZroLR8LiO6ezb1Av4Ue9C-qipf_8PlhcaDSwKogLbCcW27CEuOCM9_gQooM-0TgTJ5W-qmiB_KoIwvp_kKYSMF1xPADds7kzln2L1MMVRKN5zdbByRQqJV_tcQJcCgp33CdCi3E3jN9qRJMzmnLozhzQ_zHdons023Arr6gdzrugO1c4-jPiSk-s6JYViS5GeMLRiG3r0Jjn43kWijVJQ9V5OEfYvs762WH2yF2JQP11S5MQ74fKmin7ORK5MD4tXbrIc362RySKGcdDxq-6QP1_qWOwbl8YmKLruDTshi6nW3P2hUNTN00bd1HjeRXTMn0EM-uAwuPQYNyDqWn2KRBgjQ3j9vszuCCVJTop54Ylw=w800-h600-no)

I put the steel wheels up for sale. A guy in the Philippines said he would buy them, led me on for a while, had me set up shipping them in a balikbayan box, then stopped responding to my messages. So, after over a month I put them back up for sale and finally sold the things.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 03 December 2017, 04:13 PM
Don't you hate it when people don't park correctly?
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/OH4QdJzAbB71je7ZbrOSfZGDGkAagex_LUJOebkcNOMb_fIAt6F5hlzB3lEu31C83XBBhyWuhs7Jw3muimESHfX_Oire9dIG3pPs4Irby5KUdFyfqgJCgl4e-Ko2JqpeEDh36G4xw7fJswWcTv4UZIXlnLyifo1UTNbfKaPHmbrxJ8BjobiTX4TZb_0_cjvLB-zuczDLBxflDLhzp2O5rhty63rjwWV60kpm7FUOWEk2Cx9EypU8trIQ7j7jqbHuVm4ptW97d6Kv-0V79UNdplQc-V6OERFxnKBHXGNjlXSgVVI3Y4MYF7XkSZbiqvzqDOGvuULrcu1Az8Oo2I3_svxsFGTXpfta45gDBYy5PVOCEUXYqIreB3M6eAnwyZ6iaVc1xPg2pfEDW7ueJHo6nnc5_QxwvdhjbNTeygTvHN-D23ACBRnT0eiKEcTuGCEpy0bK1wrmBGcHdaa3q-r4INpfOUVhOCTUYp5s7h_pjn1voRepE7UHyqWO4XZ2EIRdEhgN5rcyI0ikUTMXtLxxHXYuJRgd0nZ8r7WCS1EzFsSOfCtcnR-KlmS4E-R5TqEvjJpn4vgBXcvMuwrzEelRrj-N-5bNzr16tPbCf8ISrhJ4pjCgbErPBbSdwMKG7piJU77lFJ-FImikmKEakFEjJ-N04rrnF1cm3Ow=w800-h453-no)

Here is an interesting photo--my odometer when it was at 333,333 miles.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/oGhg9C6Znv_L5-gl9v4wx7nMvZxAWPVinBwK-G3TqsW2w3h2A_4E5ObHD1jnzpzdT-ifgfNaVd2K2TNUwIl8HNfcKjL1z9VpLupIcPc25Z-hlTRFgWnIF_wjPeFWAFqAb6x16hQV1GPdZe5wWSTZP_BiOOoNgq0fouXNDMohuaPWNCp5WK_A2mn4CXuUsy-l-GilQ125lIDQksYVkW-X8_Ca8chgALv9gD15uk0hVYkJFl-IMHfSbGsfppce-YZHFA9AfZd4nzz2WAxrIei3MOf2bC3Gnzr6plhUhc9XOmumrAdNB0Hmr5T-m-K25U_Qt8xL2jnDZHGHAXF6bVkZaTgAkEknhpn9zn-ON8JWPpsTagcAQ-csvbblnBOIsR8RUsdG5t9a1Ef6wErBb2BOeNkw2nyJrXOjWALlQcarLBQD77XAqY4NGzQ_5IZaak47bOE_BlrOxx06l06D5xRYTvKUWVdYSTex1IgRPZIjd0a1Z4f3MS8-iaNpM8zzBJQbWtK4tWi_rkxYts7XhAFq6XR54fU6lHT3n1viRPoxRZ1QXMBCO3WzJnip4DQqDDtzn0_-9KT1zgWLD09y4BXcmNN3HJ0-aoaM3qgQSbeUyVldr6xsFUYk8aKTLcXuyd8fyJ0aLUDSaOfkETsAthU6vW_d38yEs3lvsYk=w800-h453-no)

I'm still using my car as a truck. I've been using it to haul a lot of heavy items including bookcases, desks, and dressers.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qix7u2AcQE2XWjEIscTkr21R3Bw2himKqs_lQgvGjJl6tedLsFSmeCBEQqh-0tv87ilW-zLCD_B3EgEx-w15Sye-cX6e96IoBf-MxAc6dZ4apr57soHb_SAMzgtjmu5ni4i99A26QAnGedcXS9RZA_e8mqb62BqZwhxNzwc8LGdFaZf2sciC4tqwk5CwaKtOrEUzN9ZoJ-hvW3rsYUL0Y_k2IORysoE5DxgjCTsOS3T0_fxxQvcCmZcJuCWXbv33eJgpdKZwXus7_2Z5OjiA58j_a_S7dEC08WFi9oPxn-iE6Tweee2us_r67vzGBQI8z7-y14Ex9z05H7UbOontc40_X16IyYMo1VH4pzR7UwuYxyslvJy_FjGF0dXKuX8mk7wkATzFNaKA6NkHBCh5hyGjwdezE5fsMf-E3yU07QuP6SKOsb6hUwPXSqF0WKVAU2GFM2cSuepO5xR5eDa713e6d2BLq50O3sEBDJKULMlJeojbjhl-a7Co40cL-wXBfv18jLfCLHgKUE8mVWvCOXxBdbDKsmJ3RBXJuSLud34SXXIigdYeFkVBR7gMgG6ZOqQfJOT7GTQOVuHCLwy5jwvc1CTGQ8KAX4uHKpC5xQidWRaoYXDbebMTnUwJhLqMf5GIo3OoUSiJteoETWFh_-IWDGxpNE9r1rw=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 03 December 2017, 05:08 PM
I had been starting to notice exhaust smoke on acceleration that wasn't there before, and there was a lot of oil leaking down from the turbo and manifolds. I can't stand leaks. I had just quit my job, so now with free time finally available, I decided to rebuild the spare turbo--which would minimize the downtime. It would also be a great opportunity to get rid of the EGR valve manifolds that were installed on California emissions 300SDs.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZDQDZaiTnSRaqDSafdrh5hKRxe_JKCrdLfJntVzn3ENCVaWz9lRU8fDshz9n1ZYlnJ8VvXR-gW3A4eP200slj3V-d8P-CCRvCKyubmu8ofIuDpuiIk5UEiXYksIn1EAOY8O6_dTaKmSztDMjWFL_dAnA0Ncx3MTY339XbJe0OeopQrYgH9IKlFEylsuc37rQgWfgDCBP5u0yx4JaCs8aHDhh2V-XlYLfOBqadS1g_nYB9k5VavEqrPJXNASvpKdwyJoJyIjXQKx2e6MnzXjfxd2-EzuYYvUqqXjmWQGboiRHu70v-PRKIEp9YSifZyuCCS7CsPUj3oo63NwTGBPggGei9vmimgW9_xNa4qeb8nxRIIefAdyuQ367M1hS76sXRGiDCGLO35_fWGHzyM4pmGduMIxu3oCe1VU7VdtO5yqk_m3b3vDkzntI5jzglvPgZWS6IMJx4SiMckFjWKkCuwBkTEY-paTbmRVgHoqBnux5OFkhzeQDiI6bvhts8zeOsqcKTG7ukKmAayPWF0TUH8y_xTUExCi3kExYEojtjpXqgWkwJVl3MPbk6Lov55mG4bDr-UYnjkdROQ_Eia88q1jOwWGEr2IY6Ol1JzCdj4hKqyA_zyiKEOOo4HzoeVQg_I_RPbC0ZPVxxjGzcVVOENa8zh24pCOYxJw=w800-h453-no)

I bought one of Kent Bergsma's High Performance Overhaul Kits that included a new turbine shaft and wheel. Rebuilding a turbo is pretty intuitive, but I'm glad I had the instructions for guidance. Looking back on it, it's probably wiser to send your turbo in to a shop to be rebuilt as it won't cost much more, you might get genuine Garrett parts, any worn bushings will be replaced, and the unit will be balanced and given a warranty. In any event, I've been driving the car for about 6 months and all seems to be well with the turbo. The metal gasket in the wastegate was torn. I had a HECK of a time finding a new one, but it is Garrett part number 409262-0000 Actuator Gasket. I ordered one from Superior Turbo (look them or the part number up on an internet search).
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rl6tx-9TXJovQOW6H5BQc9eUB75Xop8HQ4ys9_kLRyvMjmB3vdLb-dr1rDwTmEvTiNkot8TOONpLEv4Z7oAYuqCb06OSmcx3FRmhPfLuCSU6KU3W3Sylmm-Rzj1uR1QE_kZ-MmTYOu8uxSrGDImjp5v0qpLkrY1RJGPIt5wWhFrhjnJnxuft95vrfNAZ1FyqP2_ubUsyn1DIkiYsRjQIioYKckpSkbQiDaUkH7XxWP3VtWlaUJocbl_s22xo7VA6FJMaAGeWHE3ZaW2tEU-uUlI7MCCBLNpuy6IzvQf83v6rQp3EGKWSpjySf5UE61zc_45UwIh7kel7PpT22XvaYfLBDQo_NovpNwaH8JrbrbG5Ry-8sWBceZ45zI2utkfgwMhYij4GhCyUPJLhy2SblcmEicEnJs45STgFq5Wc_6493FjBKkjlEQH67dGT5DdWIrbXE1TD112Yn-tSkHYgsCHFLXRNJcPm-rjOsvkfAkQnVRx-Q4Y3IWDpkre7rrYQjm02G_9Him2x6Vaz9QhaRd4Xhvsw9tSwBIFD6-AzPRJdgZg7FZlqC2HX3Vpap7RsmifaHBBf2jNPlvjyE-w1pUa1mT2RPqAWUxHi14JghjWPa0XaH5s03wVh-1qHKDpWnzkUwmAKsWvU7ifzx1qR3m-Cja1Bp-TRWlM=w800-h453-no)

I cleaned the side of the engine and painted the block with rust converter. I sprayed some paint just above the manifold gasket area. I also took this opportunity to install a block heater. I almost didn't do it, though, because I don't really have the money and figured it would take about a week before one would arrive. EBay had some good deals, as did some online parts stores. It seemed I had two choices: genuine Mercedes-Benz which was about $200 (and was made in Canada) or a Zerostart (love the name), which was a lot cheaper and also made in Canada (maybe they make the genuine Mercedes ones?).

The Zerostart appeared to be very high quality and I chose it over genuine Mercedes-Benz, not just for the price, but because it was only a one-piece unit and had a nicer power cord arrangement with a cap to cover the prongs.

I looked up block heaters on O'Reilly Auto Parts' website just for fun and they had one of the Zerostart block heaters at their warehouse for only $60. So I had them order one in and had it the next day. The part number is 310-0105 or Q6200009 and fits 38mm plug threads. It looks like Pelican Parts has genuine Mercedes-Benz ones for only $39! http://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info2/Q6200009.htm (http://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info2/Q6200009.htm) They also have the Zerostart heater: http://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/900-203-48-95-INT&SuperCat=Y&SVSVSI=3334.htm (http://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/900-203-48-95-INT&SuperCat=Y&SVSVSI=3334.htm) .

To remove the plug, I bought a Husky hex key socket set from The Home Depot for $25. It came with the proper 19mm hex key and also had a 3/4" key which is the same size if the first were to break. O'Reilly Auto Parts had a smaller set for $20 with only the 19mm key, so that was an option.

I tapped on the plug (not the block) with a sledge hammer and then I put the 19mm hex key socket on a 36" breaker bar with a 24" pipe slid over the end, gave it some force, then pulled it back toward me, and then back the other way. It didn't budge.

So, then I tapped the plug with a hammer again, then put a MAPP gas torch on the plug for about 10 seconds. I put the socket back in the plug, pulled the breaker bar toward me, and then pushed it away and jarred against the bar a few times (which was bowing quite a bit). I finally heard a SNAP! and then I was able to turn the plug a bit. So, I drained the coolant from the block, then loosened the plug while rocking it back and forth a bit to clear up the threads.

The new block heater came with an aluminum crush washer. The plug that came out of the block had no apparent sealing ring. I installed the block heater with the aluminum crush washer and a little bit of anti seize compound on the threads.

The block heater takes a 46mm socket to install. They can be ordered in at auto parts stores but are usually at least $30 each. I was at Harbor Freight with my roommate and they had a 20 piece jumbo SAE socket set (of the highest quality ) for $130 on sale for $60. He had a coupon and ended up getting it for $47, so he let me use the 1 13/16 socket which fit perfectly. There were no torque specs, so I tightened it using the breaker bar and my judgment.

The power cord can attach 180 degrees in either direction. I ultimately had the cord point toward the firewall and routed it with the battery cables under the heat shield toward the front of the car, coiled up the excess length and tied it with a strap, then routed it out under the right headlight and behind the bumper so it can be plugged in without opening the hood (which let's assume would be frozen shut and covered in a foot of snow if I ever get to use it).
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/d6_fJG8kmyCbpcdZmeat8itZy5_E9YAM0rTBSViXlYAKupQP6icpMuvgIbwjWm0Ei_4xn3J6A1DOR_gAsX20-IBOMznMBbaE1eYaonUr8lgRCGWnR6uBdjhyHqdhMcq3DgXLayL2x12rwKzdVpLQYsXaRkyIKgfry6axrdD_ymIiIvc9cQa6wKAB-uYtxfkwrubaeKtIyEXHVrdLdZwTqjIAQUBaGGp9QLAY5n11gFBfyYwPTa5lznDMU7uhSC8f9vKZh4VgSueE5OAyxQ8khpNEylFW55J6d3-xMrIzhOG1maaBYrK2ILfO_W1FH0H4TJgKhcz3V317vcyuTpMxkAO8AFS9HibIwZL6o6Ws2FNA3S5RAEzDqe_XgeHs6xgwQZL4ZpLOT19_ng2KBxCfsRW9uhk74D-o7jovIygCFg1D3BJREHu733Wg2Ami0rz2aGijmD76z3AAH2hRMC-ekmsCXHF3ns5kfMJs72XCZRBsHnA4ffLjNH4Pl14B_CVwiOxLCfS5L_dWpyUq6rrycDvlGhvKkiU2nwYNMaWOc_1iWrgRXW8JQoawlMw24_X1Vty3qmjUY9aFi_W_C1gwUnIDFDbUnXBHsX_9VNNJyenYUQwkSJdmmST6p_EE5LshUJ6Px5Zd1bZtGP4fppUlOPEeinYkVdGWmiQ=w800-h453-no)

I soaked the cast iron manifold and turbo housing in Savogran Wood Bleach (oxalic acid) to remove the rust. Then I painted them with cast iron paint. I used biodiesel and oven cleaner on the aluminum manifold and parts, followed up by Blue Magic Metal Polish and a wire brush.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MwULleDdgDbdxPP7VEt_f9s2hiuaX9n6x2KvJY-e8WtRDpd-hEmBRB0ZZe_Gz5oD5H9vf3jtW00X03ktqxScPtoE576f_vDncqA4_8N6M_9zLKmXVAAd3pTbdQKimQiKVyCQqJq7TdaeoDqsHBTsFceLU0q4dtpBsYyOqjoULUQFKMRHVbq8ZdvJ99WEelCOLjOI2QC7QX7IRC2Kng5mnkyjg4XHNplHsUBmYR8bQPo5EVPYQQfmiGFESMHyCuTFyKEWo4E2QBQludYyXkX3fDi18kopUv4TyoL55M5cIsNJVgL5YRDoyYLRVlnlZhInhlraK-wjk2NRRSrGhX1y50WbdUh4glUcKL8zY5b0ylvZmqzS4xV5jNfzWurEsoCaxwanJ5JzLGLXxfJXRrDPW7kvW8WChmrEW_9D0xVlZLIQflQ4mAz3HFVGPJPfdxCcoAHZy2It0n-EpAF7Pnns2pTbxK2I3bTkUt6olDxKiX7BDXkNWtH279phJHDmzZlgWSqLoooy9Fr3-my_T3RyLD_buB05zc4AlYNZi4DiS6nvEWeuaefToR3Rt4ja5FAg-DaP_yYpJuER86-Xe2zJintMV9qjsmRfrVAQqkfdWt0x3io8nSUf3TIFmheFyjFf32s99potWClx26211H7kzW6MhH4RWnV9UdY=w800-h453-no)

I am really liking the non-EGR manifolds. I also bought one of Uncle Kent's boost gauges to check the boost pressure. When I adjusted the wastegate as for as it would go, it only puts out 12psi of boost before opening, but that's still better than the stock setting of 7psi. You'll notice that my air cleaner mounts are still ripping despite my engine idling smoothly, valves being in adjustment, and recent replacement of the engine mounts and shocks with genuine Mercedes ones.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/cJqFtXYCCwJCVI9SCyQ2eu39--XmriYSuVkj5yv2f0I52i2a9QycJCzzuzn8PwF6i9B6OMO7PItFXmTbDobWF1fUAH8y5uLteS6e0lXx7GvZPjYN3lJxLOXg1q2onjWxMvIv8iseGOO3cYYPhfiYrPzeRnDrhKiKXfItpWsDYYFczLxZJ4jfeb03BCCFF7AaaindK_FFeEM2bsF5jzz80FekadEsTKH0dQyr0eA5Ht3Qt9CPNrMqYxqKOQ-0ajjQwCannN81whTGDxdhpvU1p1k8_WZR7LY-HX6cCvvWw94IyEX_qa2AQ0nU7ZfnkztPdIeUrUqj4i2GCCAPlK6Op3PtSJOoKvG3dwwpwmRSaYU5l10F-kl88GtR6kj4sja_-D6s0a9nnCj7rxeF6Z9Xotk418HOCwuJXmUd3RKvCMrvjT_WlsPjKosxf9HAlB8HntuwYzGB1eSI7vxxWjWxvzqN7yErofTQg8WM53yVhfx-9XE--mJhV5gYKoNGGlJK1cMtxAw-K8Csxo0s1_H0CWhxlytM9Tgjww4S8sSKWqIzqYMOIdidl9xY6WzW9NSmbTsTivM4YUikc3iEazmtzoO8FE3Nkf2d107_qzy9eG-CszRs6TWZDWY-FJetl6ei1x0N2G4eMzy6sz4EiBNO6hqQ5ZqHlyRHGHk=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 03 December 2017, 05:52 PM
Despite having been rebuilt in 2007, my radiator had been leaking from the vent tube and transmission hose fittings for several years. I've been patching it up with JB Weld, but it eventually breaks loose. I started trying silicone sealant, and that didn't hold up, either. So, I decided it was time to take it to a shop to be rebuilt.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/OiCbxbc__JIeeiyljQFFPsvLENLxcTMdOYJ_u4MHP-YWNdp-0sUE02Z6w1DBgj4paBhFT16374me1MUOwyG2Ss80ckM-1r1kvJGHN2DdtqYHePKBNpBoSCND3MBId_7EGDlobPFm4IiI0zoKaHrx23VZhHPDjOBIkeFwNR3R5i9gwgBHEjj-XdThUXshZpPWXNT3Uljr1gsBKZ7Cb6xYQbe1sYPSjGRtQCDSZXbfghqmd-knsdmI09VhK3CgGhKNhC68icQcHlXuAmmDD07kJY_EHgSYnRlXSdb6aUu5wDcRGdhckj9RpZXwdnpgKJw0FN8sl8y3tx4mVbNVryxwosEYIacrJekNXMutaYP97Iy_ZtQpIDnRv-QFTsrQV6QNe08Q_T8cLlvFTRLgCCOclQkjp3aVrqHvJYmGfBt3qH9LjeHZK5kUKgp8MprqP_hGRiYGiKMP9CCG2aGZimhJJiOXyFHxF56f7eH8J1dSM3LunKIYt-sgYqh56MVk59tnx6ZVzbguN3XRODTjXmqd29Kn8Gpm9FSJUYKL9H6Pe4gllkLSIGHyd76H-7pYBCmrakRT39OZzJ5ITUyCQTQtw96Hsx_3Jgwztva5CGP41B37Ty8KMC-mQ7QN9wVythBKDTJbDdFynqFwmVWFZgdLCs1Kdv3JnVUcHbQ=w800-h453-no)

I found a pretty good shop to rebuild the radiator, but I got blasted for using JB Weld and told that the only way he could remove it was heat, and it was going to be a health hazard for him to breathe in the fumes when he burned it off. I was under the impression that removing dents was common practice, but was told he doesn't do it, but he would try to remove some of the large ones. I kind of wish I had just torched off the tanks myself and pounded out the dents before bringing it in. True to form, a really awful latex-based paint was used that never dried and half of it stuck to the ground and peeled off when I lifted it from the floor. So, I stripped off the paint. But, after doing this, I realized that the lower radiator tube wasn't soldered completely. So, I took it back and had it repaired.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yCjowhGXd5-Vf4eAi-57HBhUBreOSF-feFvKDiYHXBml_FNxlFpi1uWsguSl7yaDQAA6SPT-apph38bDd06i4sdHWmYfKdmFREhNLHV9kI4LQzC9gxdNbofi4tAZjR-aKp_UdrCBrvMmPhxxTp1I_5jUF1OyEr8VZngrajpzw_2hKlMwhePOW0nplZcxNP9K4DnTWAiYnHKUL5PBOgmuJFXhy0Q-X6TTUHL36ueW6KS5ZYuzp_ENSQ7wPnYH-FEqrzVBzxTiguG0j4En9ZSz_S_nULxHAP8QNaRdDEp3eOovFHm2Iuph-gR9bxuZkcc9L2reDZWP0WdR9_oUGWG9mlhY6f_Zy1_M-G5wbwyQ5J7mJjhXf87981dfra0BRCN2ypCNHWdqVJrcBjgzQVjQLreDzJ9RiFmngmj6ch1hc6rl8eC7QIuIxAqqhZd0MbI0RyAfN8Mc23cEERB-QaartYXWoaiZVft_Ckcetmytgm_OVv-YuqBMTLLzadJSw7vv0a9I8kBvTlefqQCc-BFuL0c7c27aC9s1Vy9pxVkUpHXCj2JLLpNGtkeIGGEnm5u1r689sGPat9pOz7zGMEepGriJ225KIJEn0lV46JaArLe-EtArZmoNWjAdgSKm9fhutvqJGt6kCqeCdGq7MIOUM_dZqc3IMul8Na8=w800-h453-no)

The shop owner seemed dismayed that I stripped off the paint. I told him that I was going to put high heat semi gloss black on it. Then he said, "High heat semi gloss black...?" with a bewildered tone like he had not heard of it before. He said, "You know, the only thing the paint does is protect from corrosion. It doesn't have to be pretty." Some people don't understand aesthetics. And his paint wasn't going to do a very good job of protecting from corrosion, anyway, with most of the paint on the bottom peeled off and flaking off everywhere else. He said that I should have told him to not paint it. I agree. I was going to, but it seems like when people post pictures of radiators they've had rebuilt, they've always had a nice looking semi gloss black finish and I figured that would save me from having to paint it myself. But I am done trusting the paint quality of radiator shops. I wasn't sure how to ask him if his paint jobs were any good without offending him.

I bought more paint stripper and used steel wool, a brush, and a power washer to get the rest of the paint off,  even on the tubes and fins. I spent a lot of time carefully straightening the fins. Now it has a respectable semi gloss black paint job.

The rubber radiator/oil cooler mounting strips were in bad condition and my radiator cap broke and pieces of it keep breaking off. AutoHausAZ had the rubber strips for $2 each and a radiator cap for $6. At $10, I think that's the cheapest order I've placed with them. I used a wooden chopstick to push on the new rubber strips.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ptbXKPCLNERV2qQrrarOPbwBTQ2VcpqGp5HD74EPNsVa28cgLtoPoKQgY98cEg4JzYhI7ttBxeCmX9AV3y24flPSjrTZSFpp_sg3yULr_gsrPYomW5P4Rt9McImgJHxIUHL4sPzVQj0lKOcIm0waaEEqA5Xa2O1J0BDBnoBFCs9UqBDNSSHD5TF0aqtGmcRs8HiW5hpGAQz7EhHH0HKZj7Gf0oN3tYw3stQbmyFHrCuLruNvoYRmnj1DCgSGJ_JkyD35tpnt5zgBw-_4Cavu9E4UH5KzS6MO_W9Hs_70aEU_DcPoz7ym2B-G7aluVqesBAgDr_a8HleZVmRoQhxwOc2TmfEjfBe0uMKrLa52Ehi9l-yB4CTvbWC9lCYWEWjavG49D0UqW90GS9kdRGn3BaaWxohkit5nhBTN_gXV0wmAtdKGTmAKnyA5oaGvu4tP5WRT2-F98JKGkzt45YmWKUbpMsBpJc0SqldV3t347o9PUoKPtkKK88zLY54_ytZPO50PW_n3Gf4gVXPp0jZSOzzIEmUmOF4mvMAvRoQdrGkNu_mJDwNXz096IYQoPSoJ7SZSspDmcFXylfBDN9YsSBLVK9-PXhLNILpm0-9TtUAB_LNMtVoIZ6eAaLvLc4FN3bEblbB_acXWO-9Y45Zd8S6nX93oTu6-iLk=w800-h453-no)

My oil cooler was leaking pretty badly and the radiator shop said about the only thing you can do with those is clean them really well with Purple Power and then stick epoxy over the holes (that's totally different than me using JB Weld). ::) Fortunately I had a spare oil cooler that was a little mangled, but I was able to straighten it out and paint it.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bnZVEKajobZfJP2QIVvT9TL5bHIAhexLLECPCtkyZAZr6kayqxicEYnHCwBFGCqxS-NQYMubJ0swi8oPxP7xIDP--qKSIdOT-uTS2x2Gy0W7Q92JUwk-jBbRKYQBnE8zir4xIJ_N1Ep_Ba_rMq41eeqle8bInzTJXgbclm11a0bgnE9uVsaLHEyrxnE2BqwMkWsOMA-GR9DL3xWfDa4YWk4wOXiYvICEY6vTUUJArQug_L2TfjEMILOGUmGDcKx6bqVIBZeowEaSyGuqwzNC0cJgJOzi7e7cd6csPWquBRqYsvJpcXFWuP2zHEw58nIvnFq8X8QrU-7aRGC1R_kFaldnhYuLXI1RKALhgsXumwo_2zLLerzKDAPLAubRViy980b5620Bhs7Q_dnByXk8pmZNwDyD0hxjB9AoxV3LZzU7kxci58CxZn2HFRJygrYFv1JSa2kdjSDUmE5Jex6NdxXshLl2BdPLY4Y6W--sDc0eOSUoKgLWcTo4c9Df9XYvPGJnGC1sFOGCmkyAvYWTdDsxM1Q45HSUvcSt-FP46xLKBoy25SRHmwgZnEzOo-WK3ueS6qQtDMOoEV2vUgZn2X11mgn__eBEWrmq2tWA2-xDs9uY5CYK3GdW7wpncCEqbqGDvcSNAbMOYpjzJfu8qa-WfuUayahzFzE=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 03 December 2017, 06:01 PM
The brass radiator overflow reservoir kept getting dull and corroded, so I painted it black, which is the color it was intended to be. Having a radiator and oil cooler that don't leak has given me greater peace of mind.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/H6UxbsD475KTTgNX2AWqmTMpEkBxASJ8CWKIe5arzsIWEfNgi-20ki7X89n4Q8zdh1_ZASpIm7rGNMsp2fEksit3qARpDd1GxuHHYONrxmE7GWaX-_6Iblq1NOpHGZHa_R5J1JIRSDBPmwqT-nyf0gsZQdZVtky18tcE7cMSjJKcvSw2aMn6jIyiBYp60UfLLDZI9mjZ4h0z1GEP4AvhBjSjyO3oUBBgS8_HRsH54RxerfHfpJkFKCyJ2fBUmSVwps-9cnuL-VaIf5BNv4z5wcShw8Q7U5Kqd-XjOymO4clm_kim6yYWv1_OGM6ruV11na8zY0BpIQPzLAfzZ-8uF5TavLEXUtLPz5ojP-OEo_G5bVh6L2j9jfDkibwjtPpQh12oessIuWoM3bqllFAXhfPkn6yQP0fgI7o3M3WYuXIfAjxyO_mmqRyCBlB5FrMsVCr5JHgjQBKb3FO9h3PMdw5DNQlvE21twLPHhGa5LQjcFGzy2Bi5Gn54u2L1oYL0n54WboH-XR1HhDMpbRnwQZ67CxYi1trLtx_fyeIOevjp7zseE0wLn5Q5ugPGFLtwz0QyYWHvepYyiTpFP8-zXIrG3Mc08V_7TEaKoj6IgNqJ7za1DDmjjNTQ1PWBgXz6YfgrRVhOZ2hI8NoNqdP8va3Q4YBQxfHp5yU=w800-h453-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZJQpFrHKwgp9xyl24Z4uU95pax-QY4w243DJVbgvcm3pv4w3tSeX-Vlz4uc0Nn5F7mtEHQyS06QBBtImclFRpcFTxEyUmi4DU6ndTMFf-UKib5iddYWgB0e_sQF5x0NMQQweCGZTA5uI7hUzhmqT_VsPGpvQ7o3JwHh-dTODPwBf5e_XyM0iM00Ru1XwD79YN4iC5YUL_erUbVUdmSBE7ouIHPVNRp4H8k_qqGsuF_oPwOxX50hDT5odsoc0BirEvRaxVFtFFu2AvMcnknPrLyd3wpisQOhFhe1hqqnP-QWNIyoG87fcTmVSuAQdFVh__PPgE7oRP0txZJKRMDbCNYrF3T2VJsbTvOV6MdqHQA2RzrA0N_2m8EZ_elblz-JNLWFT8Ef5z_VfJaOX1dyV0KJQVrA5RTh6vJOgnX1XsfV7R3PQ6eNbsTojpUt3twx2jLSUpWMcDfYQf1l5opVHgJpDQvQNP7ceHbpT6RlxNGPWk94u-WRdmmAoAieu-XFIoxc2vcEmveizKVq_ufAxPnmCzJhrsUI26BzLVW8P7564VOiR_hq-sIpgQnUTTX_S1EF9mba7Ilk5C3Qkp2j2QrO4OIOTP7g9LQY6234B8e-JAl25znlXhAGN-l9OjWkRQxdo-0D7lnx17RSt-7lKGq_VE3zsM0nahg4=w800-h453-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TU8FefrCggLumM4a8AZ0DvuYCB-SmN8pmsY5sCEB8brOXD-mdwgcoQD4bbR2il1byDQU0eyRLBB8pti-G5PWCQsWEZ9YSRYysT1bz00ncmyi8Z01AlzvgYRLeQpNIzPQytDCgGtHwDr2jedss6uAw7_IeNk0OKcxAJs2s2rPL_abULjHwO3WnCQSMCBhXC6VwBm6HH0mYAGrpmGDKe81gVm2sLByAelxgYhGw1qQII47806tDr9XaJhNx-aNuhnt1PFyr1bMNJcfpTlSghuJFXI6qUGX_QHdVBe4wk32F23HSi2zAl13wTZI3gig2_tmzypBEt4E5iTacFnmP3XYxGj2JIoK2TQhGjQKkARpckhB2w34IV3sjP9k8DN67Q8ZZYcmc-XUuJwn5ihi7NIeGzMAWP_Pf3JKU825pkrK_sxyzr4jwdT3-HmbETW5dxmq-TDG9WfnlrQt9Ns8KQuGpnmqqf_Ik9zaHJVg9X-KC_IFUquqFnrhOA-U9iqBSQs6T5J0QDRgMU06NPGLzYXclXPnhP32ic2wAlTjcJb-jK9Fn84seLl_SAfuHXIbcmFC7aSGI0dO7bFukwCfKnoqwmVKq8kH928Aio0R-8wHC3x0tgDCN298WbCkQ9Ho6wrNYkBFOcPqOscMlxVo1eXeqfWODU5APemGq8w=w800-h453-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iVh-qwi80f5tbN_YBDxMWOFIEEhUAuSqdFeghmGbdENNqUitXPThUtic1LMB2yEodlbsVcoy7dOuk8g31z9YjVnCBPvsqskMBAO_xJ2k-I4S2cw69EH1WTzI4TwCOsefEmbtpT9-Pz2YIYJR_dqhnVfPRanwhTNqly1mgk_5leSYv_ZO8X5I9RUcb-I9oj4AZNTJorCl6mXZdvD2q_k9pJev0VeE4aTDUnONlAAZfTymvzqEx2XPXnkiJSjBXPICC2TRFTW4HCvveZoFQw8LviM_5M3-Hqm8LXgepbZP_GMGksoKv2vhwWh84SRbV0zIN-s_x3ZyZN606fbqtAuPU7x0UMCGZX2I7OmEDdwHuB5GNnOf9L1fgiDT-T-zHykZ0XmC3s6LE-fl2_5_EL7dgeUkgORK_uarJxi-rPqyOhjuEivqlzIPkoGz4BsVWX8wE-WZcXKWkUJo11FSkmDKzG92KRBAHRcMHo8_ZkAQi0XFG7OemLuOAhkznHd0_5m0PJkaNg1R7KkShlHGnvclk13i4HEM3Z_rsa9mrhoiyOC5Gxo6Cq_XO6Nve7ottQUqJqx8sR57Xr5YDY5iKLutOnpIfCxyBD-mSpKU7MGEDcKP6jSdA4_br7k4IibhJAqEbYdm06DYYNDu54AkG6jHbXhcQX1L7zDd_TA=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 03 December 2017, 06:09 PM
I told you guys my next battery would be a genuine Mercedes with the star on it! Right after installing the radiator, my car wouldn't start. Previously, the battery had been making sizzling noises and corroding the terminals no matter how often I cleaned them, and it wouldn't take a charge. It's not surprising, though, as I bought the battery 7 years ago as remanufactured, so it could have been 20 years old for all I know.

So, I went to the Mercedes dealer and bought a new battery. The 004 541 03 01 part number EPC shows is discontinued as it's the old lead acid technology. The new AGM (absorbent glass mat) technology is replacing it. The new part number is 000 982 33 08.

The dealer had one in stock and the price was $167 but after my 10% MBCA discount it was $150. That's pretty reasonable considering all the other brands are in the $150-$200+ price range. Now it's all cozy and snug in its new home.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ediEV4GxG-vF_LIyYMSU2NrW4A5QinVWAC5W4EidPaUkclyBydGGFIhXzmcqX_6H5Owu0DTe5wT7nQ53jM1yaPE-FuXspbZ7ZTUTktvvSwQgYUXegt_jJh6ZuIDBfhatUBlqx7QPPqpGDqDOT4zmU1OrnVfN9MNIEH_CKWusRBlwa3qB1jY5kkgFQqAXzrmoq2UqYXBpQock8L7DQTumJUE0yKG76XzKvtReBIJTk3NBovCpJLUmHkbD4PyjgIg9wnblobp2xHkJ2Q4xA7M5fZMlpaVLaaCiRDGbYANjobL4JHbavMKZIv60MHOrlo3b0NLxiaRTcwJ-SRB1PYtmZNEbGY95PLPXboIn2dGnoJgvFU3dnbPUvZuq_qZ4ynSU13A4zZLcNc4RCWD5BaIEB-TVjYIIYcc-OA7NsIgwZSaRg7vqUMC89M9SYL-IaYTnKJx7JxRtphN9dO3JZgNcmGdaCZRfwPrYPpdC4gFUxVtBlTduMSNabueBRmfrh9OTxhnv8OLdKQHUqFGMyARz1b_F4J-JbputSeUAUIY0F-CJ1b5TxhraMy6YSZjvGZHNYJ7zu6tbShWbZeVVzLgUM4oha5RYWTt9RLRMxdgbZ0PG54ziJ-jg86v4b6gyrMcylyXjFabPZGanntOCNGvV_I-OcM0QFAVCSOg=w800-h453-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fN7Xsk6NtQrR2Hafr12hZCy_SbN4sWamnNQjp71rOramewo_NN7n-pi_mBwc_iB4bf9E2VlWCLQe1Yn3cG7BuKIsINYPLecChe-vB6VKyV-dYZtuGOmO6agbcIqX8ZxSeO2BCpMjrAkERoEMjIWF80Xll5fh_5PDmYHlks_Os8NZtKN0_MBBeXPskQqeOs1cNKsdpdVb1yQGxWTmrPjedpFNMFT1UTktnhB_DwOzY94D4iY4baedjDGXhym1gz9dM556BERGnDMhxHXwh-8aBL0PWF6RLpMw4eMb1Y3-s_ocoKerx6-kEFSa7QC7uph3SIsFjkcdsaU2yjXpUK3-IoxXJjqXimMx4Alc_xwfo3gISnHnX3dddx3_oYex-JdN5zAknO8sXxWydI-YdOa-Jlv12zIiZq5UGvQFoSN3txBCBZCE6cxxkyu1vJ-0F6LeCjyOLsiD0JSokgojkCKiCDCrt2xHYZ9vyrdhWNMmziwwKmCvx4u--6jmeBZxUMoQB_t3Wh23ZVQ09mJ-LdtZWVoXelsDQoBFRqzuVWHWY6j-ItGDLqcV00GZhKTaJFPJYRGJmcDHpLoLHswGalrdehvAPDeFr966J3ioCXApUuQqhJ5vG59tC7Q__8dmf_XzCAy85TfDK0I3bWTpiIlK_SrRT_avx8G_9A8=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 03 December 2017, 06:38 PM
The ignition switch had been difficult to turn for a while, and when this happens, one day the key won't turn and then you can't start you car and can't remove the switch without drilling out the steering column. So, I removed it before this happened and used a screwdriver for a while. I had to bust open the switch, take it apart, and file the brass pins until they weren't sticking out anymore with the key inserted. It once again works like new!

To remove the steering tumbler from the steering lock, I had to install the key and turn it to the first position. As you can see, a small hole lines up in the channel so you can insert a paperclip.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mqKFi899q6wpHFBzK6ap41rRyjSrVnyZQRfu6DeNk6y3GrM6URDWcd9h1kGwn4YWH-fI-Mq-IIGVG5mEXFgyuxBXxXVaLdVqF8kPtXhC8ToUEj299vX30aD9tABT4DW4MpJ0d2fporgstAH0of0zBsFGovFh3x-kw6U75CsdMaGpwkWVm1del2_UzWVDUDPfoJsMySLak4Jgu54n8Go35hyZNs4DM581ao8XH47MoMq31pplTpSDwNRHdSJpDWmmROxrCQZkbgtPa3aStOdQWgceboS5Mxr4k_611Rceofh2kgTWh8jpHxuK4TsFQXYiGAyRXzi1JlFbldQNX0L1FQZH9bkhRxMWgIa5uYAatbkxLqssWlctK16x-aXP5z_wGLmh5t9w6KP7PDL9rpxQh0faM4XxkjlYRxLqtFAF_Fe69tUFHI9_fnop6psCZc3Li0Psdnv58ncXVVY_ccC67YAOgdDUAcNtDooodjlL_5xrss5OWh7vcX0koNn1v2LUBx2z58r_EUKtD2RnIGF5jAzcjSoCNKxA38knLPegSowORU4Bh144lVRBzszqm3dXLsvoX0hiWkf5JicCUMzZSPWjlWjhcTIsPjoFAqi3R4bADqBPFfTNkZhwM9czOMrjD_zSWyrL-rkBIiby7JrAKqohxjpIf3HV3os=w800-h453-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vZPh2KqxcFzuS4vQRAs5Zt0q-AIaVj8HWdbTiQvt6fOflVZ8mexOb8U4GIOsCspXaG0GRljnm3REIoLjBFy8v4efHgAz9JvfUPFN4i015aTGwl76ukutg69x7txTAGAI6_KZkzXgLDtkA6_X_Xc_MP4lNb5R0D-oYlv7tq7iAe3sVsJ2DHK7n0fA37Zl9LgWPFCCdeT40Uac0pl1EcGBup6D7vn4eYc-AhuosxAcd2zPb--X1yGBB5H0PccaCQWXfZ9hmxa85vgFY1uBTJKNZ3KfG-wb16_rPeeuDwHnVy5J9a-mTlh-j219UEy7xOsn7HXk7-urES_rwyqLU-fY-oy3gUtx_3P4miYn1NS1E5ylYGqx1cI5MQoYc5HOGC1x0PsXaygMdJnTmho4xgZ8g7VOsF6i3FP5OSVQ9AEVRiFaNQnWWq7XZG3F4QPbHwFMSGpzqWhqvt6i-LEbqkK2Ta-fD32_T2y_xi68ORNvbSfVAit6PCqJZ14f72nXT46DZmr8PefvATut_DA9Sut1DkENYrrW3tvJpx0WXaolINHXWGTLdOLWC9OhmEAKFLTyMPmjeHltf6WB1iU2P4pBr_6ZvUodFnhEiSyU9Got9DDsiBA-duZptr2EK0Nmb1vThkeL5j5KzrqCkTJqLY7WwtYkoLjNUeV2BmY=w800-h453-no)

Inserting the paperclip and using heavy pressure forces the square tab on the tumbler to sink down so the metal collar can be rotated off. Once the collar is removed from the threads, the whole assembly can be pulled off the steering lock.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3tVU4W41KVdJBee8Z7uGHvkS0h2lAT8J6Kv4r0Xj9q1nWIDUwxQBySXOVEkVc1pRKh8B-bh_6PC1U-pxoQPDdH9MdfoCI7776PuYPStjKmw8Hhy46XAcQaMeM-Yg0sYriBhA2U28c1TsXCCsh_lJfh2NPoAmOTUZtCf0LRrteuHRgCW-PQJ6LaJKnMO42LesEwtVtDxjtLL_OTOBFVUaq2cIx0jloCffms0tOEBaekFhgmlV1QwHevUMj_-FDbDXklvQkw8DBeneBl3P42sgVSskMwUq1MBDBRP3lpOBpOMy955JXuwoLaY6wIAV3-tFj2MgC1afbubv0DXsXTqY7jo1RW5nBd5P3XD8okxU6-2_r9G5aL63anlFGSuwWpM-79GdvhrHw4f_A7P4YrTYRJPCTsvDrG__efyTxMRJfYE3PzX1g3-4x0BJjQUfxNNQjz3rcKd_06eQftVgUHynJKaPEwnrmKTSRdHrtfdJK5SArpEiYwKJVKSBQ0Ex1ieMpqg0bs4OobWWXWE1q2VaXxC6qd-C90SiWVxEPeA0nXlx4wKYOg_uHOT-pitKdWtpdQKDfSc7-i2mqf9bhq1NX3CIwbHEi4okvGqxMOOKcrX8nG7MOce4CLXzLM07HF_0A9Xnqe3gIUoAdlHuxzbizzM1kirzBQ1eIxo=w800-h453-no)

The tumbler is held together by a tiny roll pin in a blind hole.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sSVJWYe7zTJQStEL8rsrJHSzE9tojzOYxgReyb3eOLaaY1bA0B7GSXuIsE2_KRx8ssBSe720_sR2X-vRQBrLt1GQCcLCq2H0oTbXeXeHkn3UygaY0armbqKJ3OCpsZwMKkup-GQ4WeIzal483RR0DBknuSZq-wCBbKOmWj4emZzcnVd00szh6i_z06MiCKhhcR9OGHRiujw-t51GX0BjbwSnUBhkukKUi59cV4HDMz0j4NZ-_QyaVLRfPAWUuKxv2ixiXVtI-0ANplthc45kCWPKHfOU_z3w9YbG2pE_Jdlsdrsev86TrrDSg1IuOsNOoOTiub-7IiRFF1wCQsG8I_sc-M_1TOIhSYc1afCilN1bh8FLvNlCfniZ5wKbKwFrotcH-lUlQkBMYj27yCw1HbIApP92xuEKKhLfmgOfSH9V3H3RjtQ4r1RFmZetIXoB_NJgf49t0YZqJQvpU-rInREqbyZCy3t9MFNbSybQf8mdkDOh-TnADj5Jom50HTheZfst3zre24HHMzCdnI-2qgrlimvVUK-n6FCpcv53UCABQ7R2DO1IWIrFL4SWjFY70qmD73QRufNIBig8-JGJV_XG8ojWPbg41ofRyOrF8WaWaLNlMMW7ZKJ9-Lexo9GWH7uh8yaIJGaGm8FekbcJo5SEW0N-LIkeh98=w800-h453-no)

I suppose if there is a correct way to remove it, it's putting grease in the center and pushing a pin through it so it causes the grease to build pressure and push the pin up. I ended up just prying it apart opposite of the pin and then wiggling the cap off with the pin. Be careful as the pins are brittle!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-shaNS0i2K2dzj0J13Zztvi5izEuT7w2kedGrcVMRUvOtXDf_Xa9Pd5HLhSpA3Co_ufhpqBnNsTjLwv4H_PT81jSIbtybQKGP7HpyVm3iXukIAnr4GK3a5zPHT5wErIS7YWS1PDuJ8q3L_SJviQrq_Xr0cGQkUNYDSNWZ7ejXjMvyyndUSRfxQU9efsesBbG3eC5eC8rtsUuMMHVTxttGH2v279inGeQBQUpF-wQHcMQEWqi2sH6Jcfqkw1yST3ZtqVlPH-ZfjXKlvuIG2SgHi0zTabLpowsulGTDyVC1WOwkys1r_tR8k9xEy-xsvuDIZBHvlJe8juElcTxesky7bDnhjsFZvEKGED7xs78m3NVk6NH9xkWJJ4zEmX_FMUh-VaM-6ZMBDVbVMWmfQBr8SvzIbzd6Cag-APZFHstaQ4GIl23tAxKty9PnRkdnXb0nNx6blTxxcAA0s-HG_UtNI0zDgLclyB5jVzgg1I2bcCwrcA0cqfdGWRZMP5VZWLKBvGpU6LUSoRS6MijwHUD3NNOyrvBUD58SHgoHeHwq9dyYo7KEzH9i6bKLgP7fjdlPi0-5v57dPH5lislb5e_DzQ9wiPSKCGZnrVoPanCfbYGTB3hlS2vm-HD-j17Y1NgUDWPffc7u-lxeZqp5v7kQISfpaeqoIqefqc=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 03 December 2017, 06:51 PM
Now that the tumbler is apart, you can see how the brass pins stick out and prevent the lock from turning unless the key is just right. With the key inserted, some of the pins were still sticking out a little bit. Having multiple keys or items hanging off the keyring can accelerate wear.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/m0ZZJIA-Jvc2zTHtLwA-BgLuVpce7wt5Fho-rKR4Twbk20fskHWcU_McRFzSRdhnsAoNxltGf0Teg-kU1wa1d4JQjhyEg_Tl-_JJZJ_00-VMUBCh6H4BKho3Wjv61-fM84V_0l6QC37mpciaox_aPlVI-2eAYJWISDGPAhdTo9Y9RZ8kX520STyAlppGLE9IqBsoEwA_Z32vdhUCS9fZ5TcY43jbPds8pCiazEb6CuFI5ffa_jStX-Mb5i1P1rXQbYCO3ETEPBqjAN7jbmfOREAzqQXbeNDADaXyc5DDJOkIn2GKSPy4waAKih2q8_uW-HnLJyiakfpOK124bMBMY2ldw_O2KPB2SlS9cel6LArtNDAODVczO7JgwbttT97udgDWvPlRwyae4l6EVxY5BWGSNyGrsqS8LcSlhKysD8vmIb4UkfMdSlOZM94g5fQggA95nM_BIv6wwHcYU8bkpgHRmFwCmHJjs3DJ-PLtT9q38cY8FeeqIsy2aBRmGEnTo-N-_IwwrI4NO7_MNWsvuDZ-wel7xlqhnBBgRFF4XAs5LMqz5gfxS22Bmbop0vfv8yM4CaTSikE1O3mMn1SUQlpoz7A3WRG1wIw-HbcU71S4iQPpDSAAuVvAN2Lx9xnbbjnoWABoyEJ8eRF24KVoArGNOLS0mpVX9rs=w800-h453-no)

The pins just slide out along with the springs. I cleaned the parts very well with biodiesel and then brake parts cleaner.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/1LshV4_Dor3P04s1mwDmB7VOsbNaHZNa6Q7h1VOwG1pGoT2c2TwihK-1MrcXrL2tyQ1mHnzLYiKJO9F1KZsGxy9SZow1-cZXdeUtLZebao4rL7ya1Ppqxk26KIhFao0SLKp9HLlqmwn4cjCARXIzfefgMpdTfJlY1O0oO2E2Kn1ANfdtZBJ5L62kD5g9yzHYO6XcdpojkZfBWSY6mCa7qWXF-dfPb4QSUKPrO3XOjL7ggnAgBwgtfYbzEuXXnPsKkeFzDLZNcO6Yfsw-0OTCr8_xsRSpMCYOfLZNKXUcXMupvTId2kg2XAHX-vvioxzrvOCPuuL1ypr35pADjQGmSODzy385QJybnZMUC4O2PrWcG9-hKlMQm4---fJOP2O1bZHqTPAjXhDNKQ5sVkSZoozHQZFcYNgEB0rHq6WkCMcTQ_DkD21RvRQEEDvxy85XefAk4ZARBYGi2on6ClSbLFdTMzEzs2mUmxIM2jOL77rEXitJkbpH9Qbt3Py0y2iASuFXjuIxn7op713mte9snNwj-j4tP_5vaRbSh04_yNsNsWwXL74rTtpmdAjt0_Rj_UOJLHKLgJ9oh3ttEbaCyPjf8tGVc22fks7vLoJvqTNx2kXsoAx1KUtwR6f2hA8OD5tKxtUB63dMQku50g6_TJYdul3TTLn-fLc=w800-h453-no)

Make sure you keep the pins in order! I filed each pin until it was lower than the housing so it will take a very long time before they wear out and start grabbing again. I only lubricated the inside of the main housing, but not the pins or the pin housing. I think that as far as pins are concerned, cleanliness is more important than lubrication as they are a loose fit and any stickiness will cause issues. That's probably why locksmiths use WD-40 in locks--they are more concerned with cleaning out gunk than in lubricating the lock.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XNjK_43Cqufg0cVM-GhlszGcbaru9jI7U06kac32ZQbU52ys6IC8Ne_aKhP558ZIF7xln7NVy4Zwq3EiFZnpPzduLayNUoX5a3Tf6uds0Dt6yYIMPNZGhVfC-GbtF0SwagTI2lCVjLxSU8izYZqg6RtIawfArJhfD0_TBrmL4LTi1QRQuiC1SgSxgacTsyvPGOCfX8A4YSIWO6rLdH_w4Ll8qEYogve66W29LYueAqkCSWuewIB_QTFgHeJu3VjP3JZ9jV0wAGOP--SWfkKR5cUOZBhG8OFwreJMxgBdbQVq0OPuLI1cSvvwpUhoGOxyaWJEudmhOaRZUrVurFfTXT9FEnQ7stkle6UgZxtmal0H07289bPjzHTtUkozHN7DAK7vHJI-XMivqiX6XIvO_aFkkgfcBX4kIEYwqOYJLpSSVoRbNEiQH8cp_9_XpDYOeVhQcSIsBLhGsuKvHqWTSy4U47LRBeB2728-QXtKQbwivAxZQtwH8RvsTtz49JosDaQ-YDDvwahN63vbmoaPkBFVbpmqfBMh0Hrjud2X0JBkmAWfji5Lw9SZhY-139qGP6GI8V4Ufxil-3FfyspShSFsY8z2cWemzoi1u3l5f0z2hh6v8LfNy109dVoHxJe9H6kmdwnKCfSD9jkkB5Qs0UC5uiV_VVA4QZc=w800-h453-no)

What's nice is the key turns smoothly and I've tried other W116 keys, and they won't unlock it, so it is secure. The key also won't just fall out as it would if I had just removed the pins entirely. In theory, I should be able to do the same thing with my door locks so I can use the ignition key on every lock on the car. At some point both front door handles were replaced, and neither of them match the ignition key, though I have a separate key that opens one of them.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 03 December 2017, 07:17 PM
All of my belts were looking pretty rough, so I ordered new ones, only to discover that now Contitech belts are made in China! I was happy paying what I was paying before for German belts. In fact, I don't think the price dropped at all since they were made in China! I would rather pay 2-3 times as much for ones that are made in Germany.

How disappointing. It went from CRP to CRAP. CHI-NA!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TjyQBL3jGaDz68MunA5j6aiANxkg0sHZWWC8CliRnadaL7CjRTrQjODtC9BmtsSWGFZKUysQB2MbhGY3kid8lcrJg4zQsmkGe8qwhRDHlVd8sk-HJNZGGiyfIZrxHVnryJzlrNWLTsTaU7HuYL3rQc6-Romrs8d2-CpaYB-DOk3cWF6wZkAmk-5Sz8mdZExtRx64aqw0dM8R9aUK9WxdtMW19vBPN4uqeSJcpSloAwyn7Mtd7eT2yUzmeGefEnGbABA5uiMNh1sOuDBhBu5-v5jCvUZ53ERDnm7zQMEHWJU0TiadqPfXJpcYv4laEIdgj6FGCEbiVJ7dTFUGB9LRGbHmt1AVO20weMa43nN8QhiKppyXuvNzR4nsGlEbyMzS8-uEl9kCSHiPpeR5B68Aeuhyb6-LcWepGxFaOkx1ZrcatxkjVwhOUn5qxLkU0015894qedUF02RCr13KAHRER2ljj2M6u6LiHWL-RFXvNxYGBauiKZtps3T53FlIbjnF_P6VYwRgwO2YXh8pP4Kxh65iJdhMxQBLAX4r2k1s7qhO6Fv7dejh_9Ljk001oEz7bBTiv7ZikhSu1qa3UNuq1YJ4wRCePb0AL7dnIngL66TiEoBzQN6T4hgm19Edt8uXh7FHPAAEgZAmfxQ8BcGc-7dHpcKbZaAvWkY=w800-h453-no)

These are some alternator belts I bought 4 years ago, at which time they were still made in Germany.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Q1Ei20eDtnnZUcd4ZJaZy2tbXWTpHmjvpE80IWSgmrMgAFPFs62ISBiQ1OqImBC5ElbhED7txiYYKdGLXESXME-TzV3bfWIbBgPMrtTg_BLodrKZaui5njGYG_t4h-DF3NHfrhnQjxAnIAS8qcNgat7XxGrZliPjLrc3ZX4JO9KxdnAc03Rf-bvGYJoDYsIMz9kojqOYtXP0xnMP4L00M6H2r-nCNFAGCZMWffOGgzNZrQi_QRlKso9_8gCzBQk6FV-UsNLIgx1VWUDZuV-5alYvIMJimKbXG-NEYI78naCF5Ml7p20AgY_3hpWCEkZlkE0u96AOR6dCewChWgNCLEXJUSCXjf1Q3Y0iLciExJ4LKhrntaYbEaLfKm1AkERTGrANo6X9xfUqaOR0BZub08yJSNgpuJ1cVcsndti1YYI4QXIKChMJ2z23QkzWZ2aTNY9uJKLevhgj0c2f7j-hITilEV83BiyIGr4QlsVCyOQcS13Xm6j1QTIUSC-IXTVxbvIUKfVLIV5j9zxw6dwHI0mV6DIiZcYF1JGG29bUTVmkcizs1laQTaNFmTDiy0v5A1Lh1mlCwlxFYCiLRoWghyb9zXI1GTtw3vtD2Z2Jwg=w800-h600-no)

In my disgust, I just ordered genuine Mercedes belts. They were German-made Contitechs that looked just like the old ones I am used to, only with the star logo on them. The difference between them and the Chinese-made belts was as low as $2 on one of them.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zSYvX0fA3dJwQKEsdsjxV39Nzn24gc6WBfo90HWj-D56s3HygW-bOvlClQr6X9DQVMlcn1JR7_Amw4je7gnYSnz_l5i8Kor1u1T-auaGo2SA6LDYY0Jhcte5-ZHYoy9e9RQltKc_YAKklUvm1HJp_TEiNcsJaLlNNUgeEP-Cq3b6vO_v_-fkoK24dVYfWWvjBawMtPWuTEsx8d4psLj5AZ6loKvKh71lRdTWjHkGPUjsiiGEhXzIzjgerch_gZYgm9XNNNPejho5GI9FHBINCYF8IWd-daspIXusBpSqfKKU2YDyr88U770JWiPTlvwNDkpk6tQI6q0YiNVcGM1oGDR_qKgRoHjIY2TXpoPeD7BNBwZpYFSRuuSbM6IvKLJSeHNwev-ai2L0aYBvauMVYvnZr2qfvBRu_UWVUT4a3gq15R3BYmZjeamoxgGiU-cFXZGDcTr2iy41UKTHWeQCI8YJ0gvSp9qzgkwfvwlerI_1OJgA8KiNb7Xu2P_nfdyQupPH084Uq4f7-f4yuC5--EcQ3PpJAcvS-aPIxVXyrQffDLldULq8qmD8p3RagCUZQngSy18WECt8TdHZNtjkAHDCOeozBpigex_8oSFdE6s8AGKmuEjLK_tklpPXxdFv4EA7_UwWU1SZiE4m4dti4lzSL_n6TBD_88g=w800-h453-no)

Mercedes apparently doesn't offer a 13X990 compressor belt size, which is what I need. I attempted to buy a genuine Audi one, but they are NLA. So, I ended up buying a Duralast belt from AutoZone, which was made in the USA by Dayco (disregard the belt size in the picture, the final belt size I ended up using was 13X990).
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uiao_fPIVqtHIm07OyujcbFEWt3PmdDRxVIzR09qB2sJQaPH7AAeJJb9yinmEDq_Xymip5zfUCZFnNNyoR78H4VzQVVKAiN1Qi7VNy68GOrs8gtbjzT6Sdngxfzpzez9Sle0Ktut25QODzO1wIsOkcebg5QFypLxgD2Fgm5yCRkLXFGj_fM3sm0f3waH2--a58A3jAxUYDi4yLrry1hyw6Xh3-tSQNbeUFhxEqmoTbW3Ua1ICYfLRH-EqRcsx87LR0LDZWpDXvIScWu8P_B-s1C4hr7pYidmLAJtGRvAlEeM8mbxeeIdfnGRxr7tdjn4kzxVHyn-DldQWyeI9LOIPEgvwMGlQ0MiobsVS1M65hfjoiHKK6kbiAxVfJ0BVQThtDfFWYGEDOls7F6ChoAhuMspenifWI8ejohR9daHmtgWRvyNOal-ZgUcpUpqH7uKrb1DSnsUZybv0xDbgXkovSapwVMNCdTUyH1tf57vS0G_oOSlwnQcmuxyYPRzm2Xfn4Qy2t8uSGxeC7PIYQf83DxF3T6_U5KJa2TJcva_TUqUE8c0E2pWWoEJr4tupAlj1yziaDiDjNqYb_TFSVcyPXP2QuiUd1nBZfQERxFrmRdirgsJ5tjcsZ5IPB3Ae-Pdpeu2GxCjhQmq3PUl8EYbXmwwTJbWKh_y2yg=w800-h453-no)

I decided to keep the Chinese belts as spares, but I for sure couldn't have that glaring MADE IN CHINA lettering visible. So, I took a cotton swab sprayed with brake cleaner and wiped off the lettering so they now say MADE IN GERMANY. The belts are now singing La La La La, they are so happy!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9EeRVKBOH4hBFg78AUymx8EFzhVmDSyegb3-csSaQmMZxmmdRq589fgocUYTHplb0_QQHtQwdb6rT5gSAg87-7vsbSNVYPiMzbFtZVgTJmHsSFYeNJ2fvbgOrLAVeQikupfHTKz1CYZtwa_q5JYL_TI0g8Tji3I64RVfFSnGb8wEoYRxKiIuZL_HN_L5I6u4yE-CmCnbLVFE799fV2VXsSZrZjBdhg-9IpAmUf5-IrsJ3wEKuBOPkBk_6BFDaJetuhB60ASQBYzri853mSEuGokWMimSyEyOybrEODiECai4ugB45og9fLh_m_CBZ9ZVTQsi1xcS6CisxUtKFzRHgVpmNMcjC-MDk6YmLSiC31fc7mH-W6bqM6GbM0STY5a0z4Do-IJDodThr7vxwFGibkBpl1OMflQKX9snOFbfgjGbm-CkncCyk8NytfqQrhn_xesxenJEqZBNitL-JoeTaGwY09TGlzC1QmBVsCmgZQPFvMI7-deHUO1tN0d17HSON-K_6Nj-rLrg0bkPOW-jMQc8d9E3m4pudSdWd4Fs8BN3WK5ij9gNpHb_3jpgFJOdhQg-C4uNHkubGwMonXgNT73K2Rey0EhanUbhVMYdNUmJabFICt4nG5FNqmieJWTAkPAmET7Meh-A_StSK0qmhMnCd0Tb_R0sb20=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: kjenkins on 03 December 2017, 07:25 PM
    Great write ups buddy.  Always amazed at your mechanical abilities and perseverance when it comes to working on your car.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: ptashek on 04 December 2017, 01:02 AM
It's interesting how you judge quality of the belts just by a label on them. You do know that Contitech has had its own manufacturing plants in China for a decade, and doesn't outsource to some shoddy mass production no-name shop, right?

The entire organisation is certified to ISO/TS 16949, which is one of the most strict quality standards specifically targeting the automotive industry, and it's supply chain. Not an easy one to get either (first hand experience here), especially if the audits are made by the German TÜV.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 04 December 2017, 08:49 AM
Thanks, kjenkins.

Ptashek, a label is usually a good indicator of quality. Made in China typically means inferior quality. Are the Chinese Contitech belts of inferior quality? I don't know, but I don't want to take any chances when I can just buy German-made ones and not risk it. Why would a company suddenly move production from a country like Germany to China? Cost reduction seems to be the number one reason. The business practice for Chinese production is typically to make low-cost imitations which do not perform as well or last as long as what they are copying. But, consumers buy it up because of the illusion of false economy. People buy ÜRO brand parts like crazy because of the savings, only to find that the parts are out of spec and have a high rate of premature failure. Has every ÜRO part not fit correctly and failed early? No, but the failure rate and number of complaints are so high that it's very concerning.

If we look over the years, many companies that used to make high-quality products have moved production to countries such as China or Mexico, and the quality has dropped significantly. Does that mean that the Chinese or Mexican people are inferior craftsmen? No, just that the business model for those countries is to make things cheap and cut corners wherever it can be done. I don't like this business style.

Sure, Contitech may have had its own manufacturing plants in China for over a decade, but up until fairly recently these same size belts I have been buying have always been made in Germany. Others have started noticing that their once-German belts are now marked as made in China. Clearly Contitech is moving its belt production to China on a large scale. Has the quality suffered? I don't know, but with practically every other once-high-quality name brand company that has shifted production to China, quality has suffered greatly, so I have little confidence that the same thing hasn't happened with Contitech.

I'm not saying you're wrong, but I hope what I've written helps you to see why I feel the way I do.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 04 December 2017, 10:38 AM
I did a permanent fix on my air cleaner. A big problem with the W116 300SDs is that they didn't have room in the engine compartment for an air cleaner, so the air cleaners were mounted on a bracket hanging off an engine that tends to shake.

The air cleaners were mounted to the bracket on rubber buffers with bolts molded in each end. The bolts tend to tear out or the rubber rips in the center, and then the air cleaner starts coming off. Mercedes diesel owners just replace these regularly and figure it's part of the hassle. I said no more and fabricated my own unbreakable mounts.

I bought six new mounts and cut the bolts off the ends, leaving just the rubber.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/spCERt_HjAa5SqaV8X4WQ29l9hUbPNhVzh7ToRvfjFKC1lt5M8BSsOdL57dhcOZBx5G2oHkBqhuBKUytvMWifnuH5wtp17sQWQbpgzR6fsHe3A8DFqNQFhWWsiB9TCKWq63I1rt-eJKCUVYS08hftDQGAZ6BB_V8XwSSMhbRKWNCG-tL_OWU-KhaJJ9vSCOEhuCa2dDEPuVCmSFYKuILO8L8FPBYpgfluCnK24yHCFcHfv4te_U79YEj_N4KMKaH0oY21mz4avRzIzKj-gxP_CWOkuYgflQzTypbTLJXS6CnUCDRK4-2b3YRC6-Zrt-IoU14PH38QPBTcxzZXhTrha5VEunIK1o2NAMfX31LdSxmpTAzPv6g58iGO06ZdwsLfMA9msaVwPNPGNp9NK2yecJ83eYJ2p--ji5DUc-b3QPb-x34KXUv4uzmK1--EjJlswZ8IdNqeh8jjEdZnxDTlA7OhEgjYy_TD4fHL8FErvnyjUSgQWPAxC4Uv0IxR15DQKb9Sc3s7GlCUN3BOcLiEsKWsGGt4dLf3M1LWpi74xPc2VTDx1PXyDCp2GUZ9OYtqcobPwr261nBeoPA9t6K2tgTvwaTkJ54bCviBDKfIA=w800-h453-no)

Then I ran the rubber on a belt sander to get them flat and the correct height.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lEnkbTPCrrRgAklqQ9TWZfETKFjgrCLLGN7Ro7gJFbqSnLSxQhcX9ri8Z-K3DKjleaDkJvux9KOqNy817kbAxbMqsjPCh_aaYnWCXF9eOU0QZUZw2zqTSpUZz-N82s0doIZtP6thSs_gj1qii2bz67HBZt_2VRTr7R09X9hc6Kgf4oa0r97lHUDdeNRF5v_Mjo_YR8Ef7OZwWzkzenabroKvpXbROLhGjXZnkKWMb2f-7NmlAkW1r6wYJVtgYsydCRXev_RMWYFijj8bv9mu_cSRSo-y0ljtzDbbjtu8Q6MwLYgZ_XFumEn0_pFwN0KbDLA5Z0qB2dZK9v_Rjz4WhH7f-5Kgod1Ol14Zzz1XgcAXd5o71l49vYsft-gMnxZZ_FaCFz5pZrXHP1cMlZSmIqqhWWsPaOK4YJFeFQa4CBTuQnuykCSlfJAIoHxV35lDsfuc4bGTFGVAfztkkdqyaIaHIc4LUVdDEEo7VsangTye0G6Ce_RFrI9Xj4GFxeVc5vAATrCZF5c4pQgpjLcdShY4ra0mHsQfP-HHV7EafBax7BJntqnkQnzmoC4D8YkQPSRjQA3qJOSrRqwiPeRGv4LlxFHvNzzFvAsitji7Xg=w800-h453-no)

Next I made some holders out of hardware. If I remember correctly, for each mount I used a 35mm M6 1.0 bolt and cut it down to about 33mm. I put a split washer and then a flat washer on it and threaded it up through the bottom of the air cleaner mounting bracket. Then I installed the heat shield, three 1/4 X 1" stainless fender washers (the lowest one needed to be filed around the edges until it fit down all the way). Then I threaded on an 11mm long M6 1.0 coupler nut (I couldn't find these locally and had to order them online) and secured it with blue threadlocker.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2zInplYfJvo8DmMEV8cP97BbFvP51ICogJiPHD-JNJAQTwjDmJ2_kEPYS29KAAFSfeBXgA_DuCfI3C4ABve_8o7RUpkg9--_BoziBewu48fWbDqY8pfRupbQ2ozvHp07FlNsywx5eVcZKMaA55NWEL8zH9aLvPkq-pmKIYUb4cUE9IajzTpsw4pHAovUXM6Xbi4waaoRvuKN2bR6noKqJmH-xbaObKQVGEY6Q_rDqTWmZgIHnRdQUihQ05SuFaX71rj8xt6GTsvoQAe-MWZUePZBYQEJmfu89DFk-LX-fnV6OziHBUb6gCwc1gSl4TszphG7DevNRvMu7eRPJK4RHnytM54NF_OjrMUaVf4xm2gkXoHEhaY9ZcV-yuDKID69lLse2HJ1sE5Vs7yISpsvbii47zm_Q8u4ukSMEoclyikBhGsMfviy6ZAoNCHW-RDtTLMKeyYoMq4kPP7mB5dVM5qWJCgJpqS1GGpFqRBtUJVHHYIo2_uQQxFDTWcZLI87RtvMh32EyoIXv_puHoacPeYw7EwGK3QJETaU6SWarnkfaY0CIWMCSzCwEMnjSzpO7HkzjHDt5DF7zxk4MTyt-GxlPj3JcJdBEsC8_JEwjQ=w800-h453-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/h81FBqshObK_TIXe8uhhhspOOqbbxMGXCDqKaNzyD0u2n_9F0RoVs6e4pwbqpOsGvUX2G3pXVhb4eG1_HNEkJB7UX3V56On7RYm7zTvFS8ssfB56QrlVdaDFIyDkm7Lu0nmzgGDOXuyvbU2qybtV75x6njPg43Fy6DAO2drvYlmlew169JHvvwsN70apc66zGyfot_PQHWPprBTQEsk6Wtmax5vj_DHYlZhVEWb4GaCDGB4P3535xjAkmAci8YdhMnZ8glalW_JsdywWJeq_jkB3VtuSGrVwpsQlgTN7EqxxvR5lozXa8_kLCITxE0Nj7SYCX8sxu0et8r5tbUq_Rv-QB615lp25m93HpuNmyXLGBgFCMto2cNh2YwCWEICeubHdSb7dkC_nJ6T_Lh5EL7qmVPFzCWCBx2qnWXA9s5gsFMC9f-mDw3zjw5Akgp2IFq5_S2Tbcdrh3fMv28cqLVbvmtmX4B0HaXfN5z0WVA1W9MKYfwYVlXb9zx0m_AnSA4ELViEuyLF936fUH19MNeJF7JIQJnuwmGEVcSK3zSlMdXP8_rlU5r_U1B0fWj808ZfLzx-i9l6ARtXSgvRpWwcYm65mpuCTeNW3sqiNJg=w800-h450-no)

I drilled holes in the rubber and slid them down onto the holders. I think that the clearance between the air cleaner and bracket is supposed to be 18mm, so I probably made the lower rubber spacer 14mm tall as the total height of the heat shield and washers was about 4mm.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tQJLaJjBlPq7j2CablLS4qHmBsxQ6qcyyWwX81dIlG6t6-XKJfMI0qv3in__MzlmA59jgHDKANOGSeox_sCT7XPu-eaSoWuGbe8wTeMrchb_jBaUnAoB_q6Jn1cLtKvSNqN8v7HMf27mB1o-qf3NCSEdMuWGzYEaDDWBhtRe8naVjkl4q2QkkI5o7HEvPMv2CAJSlXoSUTFo1mv3tfg59lLaR5TELx560U8o45XA-CYbzcAkz9adXBnK2vqsaqYF2VTxelKW5HPLoSh8raalGzps-dFYHzWOZr3RpAfIvUMIlyvOV7dm74Bmb45NREcGWx3kF4NYTQGQOf11l3fI2ey2XQtyctb1bhzsC4xx1gJlCistg8ogVBIMSoKS3AH6Hs2rPUhrpoccZUJ6ZyGnU-4c2QOPolahBsAGIty3NEOZZBO1KvIR26kiQJU-G_YIAI65r_GVaLNIjNpGMB1zjdvAmoR87wOsFCfsawB5OpALGeHV8Yk0ledVH1wLRdedE2MytaHCEkb2yw3YfUsD-CzD5x-ei1H5Zc01btILbdQee8AFEbfAVc8aCcWRVdj_O4gHwe8a_wdeQe4Wd8QsPGY3p1z1F6u8xy3K3Bxieg=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 04 December 2017, 10:50 AM
I made more rubber spacers (about 11mm tall, I think) to go on top of the air cleaner after it was mounted, so it would be sandwiched and allow for vibration to be absorbed in both directions. I cut down some M6 1.0 joint connector nuts (which I had to order on eBay from Lithuania) to about 7mm tall to thread down over the rubber, until the ends of the bolts bottomed out inside of the nuts right after slightly compressing the rubber. Blue threadlocker was used to keep them from loosening.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/m_bRTy6GmLDS2wGVhFvOBWwOwhEJVI3t-aPvM_UMSPLo0SB2NpzKRxBg69kQD6suWGqSV2vE5rk-AKMGn8E607-2Be9vHocN-v1aSWNnSsp7lm3-4mI3DDQeyh8PRPHVY2apeIPrDNaQ6xfNtdOpwBftJFWQ1ckxcTcTn5MYe1qf-2QGxOSzh0V8e-ys0wd22MMpYcZXo0LEZLgsfCPcapewpdokUDaLinETcE1-84lkDvD0CU4yLsSUPy69DOMuZJRApTrfb0t9MiW7Bhfmc6T9qQGusOC01TYIt4Sx-xcw6V_1mCfFFQ76uQt8w24Y9Hr2g5w8YFSeF-mHjfadgNOi8zSdb0kvTKNhPr8B_OtKMRGyAqiWx_GMZj7unnvL494E1yTVYj-SMQdwQmAB7H9tYv5EPX9fbg8LVF3QrhoDCxLrhBdXohTLgYXRY188YWZ_CSM2HnC_NFUNt0PewgkywlkL9Etq-QKcddr7Bh3llwnDuhYJiyg8H-JB3afMOVMAthptSdat9KoDIb3lZ6L0V246z9aJQHkp9qMZkweyLjxeEDqwipLIOfEuIjl7GksJrV-EpaLFz_nQR_3F4-E-60wI3Hedckz93QFQjQ=w800-h453-no)

It all fits together nicely and the new mounts I made cannot just rip apart in the center like the original design, yet they still absorb vibration just as well, if not better.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/45uIxV2RT4pdth--AHBvQLagF6YYS6hQjy244KPmcbR9VSIYxqnfly4me543TWYUIIhBkzZ0vy3jKhc-uQLXs8NW2g-oanCp14gwijSXX179DYXB_l_SPtdjHG8DAQXW4wbPY2WLNHffqkVDR87U0OA7lmbmhJTTFP5Qpn7Kh5SJ7j4q9E6vvDw6DtBXrLJ8DsaZiVkA1dXT-lBp0rkC0QfXg92-8TCcqzfHsJMK2pPkSt9bZ2ptkJXc3jrhCpx90hj4ebxqKSf3pI4rFIzViuZgToo2GlzhayUKk5tU5fHS1GoZ8KDn-c0qw3ikuFbJ4EDw9B80OJGTDT7-RnDQ71Z8GllD-hkiVScuIqbjAK0dUs0wsSpt1WTMmCPdSvED1D3ZMpRxhHV22M9xvAL3DXu9r8GkC3zcpVQDhqUbGYjJPVPwZPAcVEnaWbUN06AsqXhR8lKgPmarjywnvm8ggatJZ20ok7T63VW8QNUUa7qLKAnLVQ5OCvomrXn3b6HqymNW3O6scKGmFKc_YXXwqcUCpKDZDaWOYnTWdkFBnP_vzFvhCdOruxyXsA2fszFoHnKhyP79ZlwVjb2WdlJLrXnMYyqdKvXk0ePmI0OjTw=w800-h453-no)

The stock air filter still fits.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bccpNya00IYgJp-Iaq5pAZWbdqyLj1odYlgPxphidGtQjlAhgSUwv2Ij0d8VBLj4ha9xw-WhTP6R_-d7F451LAWVU7kyvE0NRyu4Hx23mHGpHtaxSEI1TUidZjvJOq60Q3RDAd5rppv2bvljKZ_mEbh_a7eNIn-pI8oIlZIOAzbst2hYu0NkpyZ3zjkcMwLNLGFHomUQMD6Zc20FRkhv9rCDQj-Gz0DzL9C7tf5yG5lgPVpaly6FETeXDUY63HuvZcIXDweVCJq2W6p3-S5fSLhDcaV7n6z0giasnz6_G2kXUDiNMiVLW8vZn8n383cks8a-f1E8oPFhhzhFQEsdA5rC3JjIEhroPMW8EopMCDtlmSJOUwug2rpAZE6cAYzMg5emA3ZvexEvMeUnLcumdW1TjHk3ApwZ7x3eHr25NhstthBp6dTFeMYwlyZiEn_L2-B6ZJWAfr5qkSsDEwawORTE3tk0EWPnuwYvF4NkYs5bxe3HKP7h4noadujvGSsr6kRP2VORbHsB3PHHni63kW1qRaOWn_Rj-k3eg39HZ78uWGyveKgo_SwLc7FthngmPSDEEsPNgqEp8KOqlMcIBQgXZG8iby1ima3jyJTL5Q=w800-h453-no)

Here is the air cleaner all put back together. I will have peace of mind knowing that I won't suddenly hear clunking, only to find that the air cleaner has broken loose from the engine again.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/v9twdvKoC3lCG_NZ-d0ZiDikWdgNvOr4x4I6oKH1TwB6Vw31x3CPNSVpjau1M8c1kd-QaPPMajJT8UJvxCaZ02dpQzyHdeXxvi7Z-ZI02OkUgVMZHUr2Ujc8N_UsUz6MKy4RJJIHdcXMguUDUYJSk5PVBbVJlQHGIXI3cYGwXCANYFbj_Q1WuY67vC4lCpgCb9M0qdY5Oz2tmr5cc-a8_y-m3ZauP-CUpyMkCOxEVzUEsMycAXKATQOObNFqHd54G-EtuseWYH9d-ay1YODH7NhlXXdJuLjc39JfUJj-RA7BlUcbkgem0jG6oVguy2tNnDwaoE8CuoKKXe5uzASoYe0fZSEByTgsTotl1A1WudJfHF3K01BaNFlphLH0f_JdQUL7q4XCyTTaiqh7TLWVO1273QrG2CPEujhQcr-yBZLFiBaCvWb-uncuV5wmCBhjSVhWJvQ_f2-YlCpRFCdenLlAk7juVJ9PsxCygWfatdIpYjx0ausR70k2P66Eqjpucf7f7ymaM_JsdbAAaVORJjF6FJkMi36wfcMGrhmtxMzpswjTUaN6_VgiMbzUp8y4uVpxCbwqOWbhjv_xbp5U6_gXW9O83PQ5z-9mEcbYTQ=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 04 December 2017, 11:07 AM
I had my annual emissions test for my 300SD. The opacity reading was 1.9% (20% is the maximum permissible level in Arizona). This is on an engine with almost 343,000 miles and the ALDA system removed.

The employees didn't believe me at first when I told them that the odometer says 342,900 NOT 34,290 miles. They said that the engine still looks brand new and the exhaust is as clean as a brand new engine. I told them that these engines last a very long time when you take care of them.

They told me that they get a lot of old Mercedes diesels in, but they said that most of them are extremely dirty and oily and smoke a lot, and they didn't understand why my car's engine was in such good condition. That's the benefit of good maintenance procedures and not being a cheapskate.
(http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachments/diesel-discussion/144134d1505172794-post-your-emissions-testing-results-new-doc-2017-09-11.jpg)
(http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachments/diesel-discussion/144135d1505172944-post-your-emissions-testing-results-imag1403.jpg)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 04 December 2017, 11:16 AM
After having it for over 5 years, I finally installed the skid plate that s class helped me get (and surprised me by having it powder coated). I want to protect the oil pan from bottoming out, rocks, and curbs (so what happened to my roommate doesn't happen to me--he broke the oil pan on his W126 pulling into a parking lot). It seems that North American market W116s don't have mounting holes to install them, and the areas where the holes need to be drilled don't lend well to drilling. I think that right-hand-drive W116s built in the South African plant were built with mounting holes? I know JasonP had one on his North American 300SD, but it may have been added later on.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bsEkgu0H4MEeEFCxSjKFODFKxN-dvu3s80axAgFZ70EYmXwMkCnBxEaiuFL9SAGk3uWU46KpxBVP_f3UGIaRiYLUxVLGZYZRNYrCfGkMuBdYetHYPFZs5VgZHJ4TWEYCZVu4eobzwjvvx57NhQuBCxgg8Vaj2fjS0sAhc69y7ZRGwPanGlhwx3YfAv1vE20OTcpLBPP58AaCm1yzSmvdzVnaRHLmTyp1ihr7alnrhZdfn-VDtbPbQ7ade6jqPUz7hxNp0IebJoBrGGTv5bEzhILh-6v5v30dNnoGxyYRScEBjbL9XYzSFDXTWBzNYrOr_ygCYZXdjTCa2yK1-GJczObXX43yfk8L1deFSXl49pOL4ltaiFy2M0h7Gq3kqZ74A9hQUOgW8JhJrk-a95SY2ncSOcZImRH182ZOWZKu4ye0pcCWPidOFeMe2mggRaQ4IhXL8wqTvLnct76VBzDvNWk6KqRV0YhQA5ej_aOSICCkMofeQsZuiteDpyomKITnoMElPvOKbDQeBiCqCy4RbQa-ot0XlaHHvGRWT8q7JOMqoSC9pBxhraPxW0_z53i5DpZB3KcOlr4Q36fNRQV7h8CC4sNsFtnLWJMQgh1y3Q=w800-h453-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/e0PXOxM1QSYDrrK8Nqu4UHEq4TpYevxfGrGIEvy4eDkII-MT6W5Ss7_MUm6NWDypny0TEbVjNHWN55J5pZllCRENq6mv4591zE73h8sbv6aY4aiNkVopPL_RHJ_bkYtE8zkW0eyT8Y6oHBu4uzgc0X461JuuATljdyDupu7IF4qu_y5qKeE18WrgnMI1tbtGHis4TUAszOgBuC0boaeI8emMSOYu3O6kZJ6NOWW3mPmmX-C-RaIqCEjHvuXJVVZHQSaCOchHdkjCc3quCJJcrE-35GlwrcIxiN_NmIfOzmHpZFgg8wIuy7MMjckRBRqc8G1146mtsbTOEB_VzoOkwV9tjxQQnyja3OznSCOGK1aR4hZ3E2DLZm2P1SWzrnTOilbLQMiPO2Z45_KKkGmEVCZx1rcPNczRO6YjFYp9YQa-g6FK6kKd-QAq-plj4jkRonQQEPoGK_MbdI4dDaK4b36FFkeSn5QB5gV19B_72lNjg_MqCUv0-uU_nMjYLVt0aFhojphr0iLbclhYZIr1jzjt2sqaWu8h_TIXtYin70qVh0Wv_afhb_FvMW4GIyREnrt1jmgk9r1vfESKadnctBQMKmQDdHRpunXo4Cijhw=w800-h453-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/F49DNYU1IhSsBACIUpLaAW-K4bv4uAJFbpu3FZ6SanYkdtZpRkKv0T5U0ml1kzVssTi8bsg7DffBP4E3OVCHXFA5eBP25S--vf24WRBLR-A1dNSU9sqQd_7WzgM1fVeqlRfN0GnzgvDUM72TbaLaDKuuMzbLmF1lAeYtvR0vQk6mVvjPPfm9KwdZC9PsNPQcOe88gY0qr2QbgaNc0XhRZ8XIeKYI1K-8MPK1VVwmHWRTJr_QTu4vK92lcLZ-c0EBGlvtlWB3rwNFLeKTIy4QLzAf_PfQ7DmFvHY4PN3dXoskZJKoHsOAgQBqHMLiEIv4T0jx-IU5K9lvrWfo7PBXTrZGhOmAUO3HxuyCu8_nseMRcteBLQmvISc4tNQZdWHI6NVXdS4CRG5EmZukepoFclHgQ-Js-E-TZbV4pPK6gGQtdyjqisb3buYSj-tC4u3GprNb9llKcbX_4wW10mWk0pwrKit4Si-c2Mq4FBNb7xsarY5iiiVwAeIwM1nEpTTIB_H8wLl9OhTyCDrauJlMSdWOd-q3gYy2RhfBVEximInMkD19kg7qrWVTdPUjQY4GpdZtaa94g-mx1kkgblya4gKkmoe50idLjAcBn8iBjA=w800-h453-no)

I attempted installing the plate a few times over the years but was too nervous about drilling holes into the body and messing it up. Finally I decided I just needed to get this thing out of my storage unit, so I went at it. I am happy at where the holes ended up and how it fits, but it was nerve-wracking and took a lot of effort.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MJo2Z_kUAeD5bqD_LcdfWTHOwZk54QaWUkB_nUE7y9ghAtLjSVJWznMdENyB7Yujkm6m47rGTaHDzaK0IC83BWfWqcW0V3pL5WWoNO3iaQ61FXK3OWWDu3iwkK4OIYIShlBD9l1q4oJxNx0AfqPayFb96ce4GDRib-AagqfyX7aJM3G3wZLE5985aKRKyeefC5wQmE-o9QKUHl1Z46EVOcfcH71HmVGszs6ClDY-G6AwsE9xLGbxwDnOgosVoWHxAkjiQ2M-gig738HPcS31KHk7Tj0D9mDgYMDYjFKqG0xk2iE5GLC2AvXsN_XFA0lBzKwwi93k_D4kcK9Jd8a4Tl_epEK8KAzmZphqHSlPteR30r-2kOd9J5PLiycidLizGyaaZ7P-W_O6fiu_567wRqHUnpDue6xHOk5On_4hORIMFrC3VpzI6WLAQhf05iaPAiwKXR9OVx80I-V1_qL0aFXMPTDVjqhShYkmfbj3V3mm5h87qvewvlDsOCA0-9gPU0Ohkj-5oQsi07VPoSpKFweSs1Ll43k2q-FNgj053PGr0LmAEqGnncojXhQt3BIU8bt-HD3WmmVt-4CO31GJaecfqq_MrZbjO5_UDlrgAg=w800-h453-no)

I was nervous about the custom Sanden compressor being in the way of the brace, but there is more clearance than the picture suggests. With the way the compressor pivots during belt changes, I don't think the bracket will be in the way, and there should be plenty of clearance to compensate for engine shake and eventual sagging of the mounts.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7UW1tBF40L0SwjELup8vLJFvvtWpGczFj2FBbv6Cwt3lnyYh-wInoLd9E5WrG1DOLqm8SP3w-KhzCGPA48xor2r-mZDPfLELltHeAKuEerGXL1GM00e91HgroSPNVaAYwU5Rar3xRgX9y8I5NDLfzBH1DLq63qS_LvKHC67NnLwX1HeSL_Gs36Ukpo5sBU0iw2MMwfdPwCaX9dipjWGN_0b3pXYBwHaVxOCgHHo_Ps6fBNKikctm9foKpkGTuM2Avj1rkWMEJy4LalBkkiWFktXLFimVVplfm8WNOaN8T5ziVhrz-AdYX0WVuHbt_ZRRV-KjoFMpoVbaNiOazqZpsRGvybsy0tDU6FBmgL-peSlozgkUzgGC39nQw6_kOLcFzRuAVQjmbh5RecJoDZTv2fg7Tp-mywft7w9Bu9KNG4m1l5hwO70_rrRZoO1iDTpKkAB4btI4XivHdzvymGs7Q1tYHqU-Nm51Ej3Wb7kv_G2j2jbv1lao0hkV4dbw_4pT2fmskL4SQhyyKLVwWESRS-b20HoOqEEVFX6vVMDiOCor4VRbrCrTMOte7m93nSJSQUOetBq8lGn4H6Zif8hkN8gnYHf1yVB8F4zDxIspNQ=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 04 December 2017, 11:45 AM
The skid plate was designed with an access hole for the oil pan's drain plug. However, it would have been designed for a gasoline engine and even though the hole is very close to being correct for the diesel engine, a socket just won't fit squarely on the drain plug. However, a box wrench fits well and there is enough travel to loosen the plug. The oil should should pour out through the access hole during oil changes making removing the plate unnecessary. The ground clearance at the skid plate is nearly 6" unloaded. With me hanging on the bumper, that clearance shrinks down to about 5", but the exhaust appears to be even lower than that.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NvoNxlYBJi0slcEmdOjgYTYGoqeDDpdw4KOiDxXwO8boJ7XuxZZyf7HVaGkO5QB-IrGz8Lefk7NNU3aivGK1_qrh_PUGbDahL4MnYfrLDmyGrFjibdWKsWaPMSU9uPUOHiUmoV5AEpgL6iQLxJC6CnJwL6g9x8-11_LZbT9HkKYALHrjJlRguFMeXPbm7QhpMlzJgsFev_Z_4Nkd8lH06ILYBb8DwMD2ooo9LVoebxEyOru78VHZZrYe6SQTfWZA9tOx0a-eerWpgcdcLug2kloZFNQrG_xhV9cBbACC4_sZ_Xy67V6FpSFWSIMKoSlJ0c-wSQyf2QNuGBDpOaCaGViRq08Fjy_h1p_4LVZZf7F7HKzyBRYtvQGiUeYsVycPEz9yugliWVBz2sULc1psQ-AlMlQCZxlI5y6_PcdTnaAK3QCBJp-ZL8k1pa-LR8dIEJmX2GMU5R93t5rb3HuvniWYm3ENJMrru4ax3uWmlp7Ph1nvEbEnhWsJlKt0oU2a8fsh7DqDNs8rXXCH9tSs1997gkFsB-bU5WW449wntkZUJmOv0feiLhYvPiRA1hhT1Gvs-jXdU9GmipnQW4lj64QopwT4zIAIBqZVqQJvKA=w800-h453-no)

It was challenging guessing where to drill. Ultimately, the correct spot ended up being near the little holes that are already in place on the outsides of the rails. They were a good starting point, but I had to oval out the holes and cheat them slightly downward and toward the rear of the vehicle so the starting hole was on the very edge of the final larger hole, not in the area where the rails start to bend outward. The holes had to be drilled from the outside in as the engine was in the way to do it the other way.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Qqh7CGgUVnj1hiOIPOxUQGWHmtuASojlMu7m-LiT9fdMyF68BbBHVvrRHDKA6GZLqCCHs2x8cr7Mw5uWvJeo1YYEQfS7PPNaKQJl6IcyVr1JycPxFdMGT7s2AtqtNQ9J8oQ1Ta3fPw_XtQ8QIdPLpTYM3IVL9HYjLJCGJJ9ZXdeFRWS9ux9bYsiNoczwrNouUU0x09AvGoDflcV7qA0d89Sxs4FyhobgzKV5-8WSAGwKMpONFKxbXCoJoZyoV9tQmYbsM2zB7cm3kGjZU3lRojhvXWS0lPde69HXdVkaASeg0tIRPVyWPoXJuapWkOd07dYRMaqCyzv0RTpEtbT7QXFkL0GhRzpOvMdRdZ5Q7btyFpRIrOHdn-8ORCuZiCoGRarITO0ihxIUFa5RGqRH53oUMDMmLmJOU5DNrNwKnbuJnIrHlakoI51f8twXTOp0XuTo2Mx6G3Xwt-LVZbZfScGflNg49c9sRmi0_pwiYP1Hu5MYBG5GqlWYgLNTsIcM8SZ3MeulzjLsi4-bWzkW-8jhepzhGlH9Nn_nwiIVMMEq7W4EEgE8VpnqBpsfwXDEanaicPDtD_e9JTlezSzk4rA_f8-A8ZHUYP4id93Dfg=w800-h453-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/eHoVE7yb5TaJmdqiKs-_lI2mj8sIjVGh_x8AjylyNByr79vrwtpoAEgmGvTorxpoJp5XpxOAnGR2eROoHPE5d0YkpWvPqAU8qFJLiDu9KqpoG_ADuVgf9JFde9d0igNtAoP9JsnvBSCP8CYyiha4wk7F4FqUQ0CwdzvrhGx6E94KiGPrnqMCXtiJCNNMIyGwULSdmIvhhFBsZSyxcit_RrWD88jaNoGfqBTdZ39swkCysXYnnqEd0aD__5OvpiYEp7m0O6VgFhuPDVxXMXfoWzHI8eQnkZUOSJt-rDTLbA9VTVw5_8gUJglyfeidB8UHWwo76ev3vg86A-SL4SE7oddExCa-G5b8g0XAG0vB9MJ5hz0bCUvPSykIFtv25btrllW5IBFv0KUHcRCiIERsnPm5SNQ1OjBAbVO6mUhnx7gM1_IAqcV2sVrGzgMUdAxWYg2lLShhK5IiiliIOcY611p-BTtnlSZbYEE4oYmtJVwL7caBtgrXmTD1o11AaBgvsUtT1FPgS-VUqw7_t4FlrpcL7ltv9_v98LSeAYtZKqOGmZOFR-gyqZ8ziAXU9Xe7L3ix-ZR6pHgLuEwvOgM8AzORR4wRfIXxhP82E2cxHw=w800-h453-no)

There is an angled piece of sheet metal inside the box tubing that made the drill tend to slip, as if that part of the body wasn't intended to have holes drilled, further leading me to believe that the North American market wasn't intended to have skid plates installed.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Mf7tb5MO55yIPD3qZwA3y8JouaOk7S056L7JWSrBqDEgQDL0s3-v7SqFcZPZ0oDla1C1RMasA9msE9908QyyvIIO2ANFuB-AYLrkHthaJzmeuSFimkGenDAHVeWZza0eJAtl43TtiOODvCtd0pv-860S8qILFA3qvi1bhhwSCwB9MCvgffHpX25YYRuU9v01M1alouH04F8U7Z4s4Qtvhk4rk3S7kHcVwLoNZeknW3TvPUGKdk4a4_pbmwa6ljJ__1aWm9zy7u0iHZ_jD75JRvxkOSchXbghM9nbqSy4b2ZWgz-1gh3_PUHsk7nXUI-KK1sYws9f8uCFcKXr6CMlDUhOoYE6QpYmvuj2kVmEX6jZRZ68skoqUM8RFjOJJZloeJkMz5-Hnoyo0H_ay5ArucF0-fen7XR4OvACOQbhLQLX-N96D8F-Lg64yGZB2zqj2-KeZzoKegD7qXDnC0ql8Xsd76g0f-gijRGMyN2f1uoVDf2PWlwIDROU1GrPJhARnBqPqiAyUKQEEmKkD79rqvS9Vv2ZZMTpSk9c68CtsE305WnntjMCNGHFBF-MxhijJw2j4Z7Aamhy7Sc0jsqZv6d3wT_vq_SwPPGDaBWULQ=w800-h453-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/KFI_qxyvnL19I6OdiJHVniv0jya_fYhZuw_1v66JXaQzzBvmIVVz0e2PaY0s4EpnKlpWmxUgBb8frQW_boraFP3T8NVliIp9EOH83JpSr-2cdVtrdOdRJKpgycmPhaiLb4SXMZQso6_khJiVfSfTDCgFUrJvt5nli75CYoTocQnYfdXeZZyCCF_WUaA2WVp3hUmTt_p98h-AL6edQuVYhSq1hIacwNE-7q_KKPM9zJLTVUHHT9tuB4Fl5n0GIbBzcUFwOvszt__LgfGsQ9UGAismBA18v5zCAdJRomYab2F9z_gkQiikUFyfcchdsGbzsoxUKa1bhoD1tIe-EU9NnnjvCAPOnzfw0ZxVlKw3Xxj3oDOifwaWle3ddmCX51BC9wR6xk7bLs964bQVM_Nj2CvFIxGPvcAYYj1ioCvZqHtXM38QNzCPyzlJVADlD1zvCXpqLZ5Z1txcJ_-VNuK8DSs5CnyEZHzwXGi5kTkAkP9Sud_SNy6awYP2V_nY57hUcwtgvKDxgv3b02PNN63NAVpCuaoQjdBm5enx0xDzr1UeUTk2vEHmdOmKqauS0XziXNMhnApqaAXEtcfkAhvNwgqfBEhdE8ZG1nXbNRPdLQ=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 04 December 2017, 11:55 AM
I started out with a small bit and had to oval out the holes and cheat them until they were aligned correctly. Then I used a larger bit and bored out the holes.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HADJ-hwB4btBnIOWVyd2w84KYriTY--1g3iOaQxR-r7A613geyFXsbTQDk4-LRegWr-ZXT-blTiTFiMmee3AyDZQFffTzqdAHCjRh25VrYvNbLR-1xohFcQh7ClpQ5xlVEGeQykm06YANREgJ_8Pvm_5PEBvaSpsCz5Zzq7W3PFtd6HniNIxT3ihmYNgaDnbtf-NXqSzme2XXq1dycs2FsrCjr6k5AIh9AbtgyegyuqxkJfSicHPpvp67P_HJqcvRyvV-l7uUcaoZmqIpO0EgVlh8YUsMr5CzEfOhtHD4Ype6J4kWbZkWvo64B0_Uj3dz-d7gNEZaAHcESmY59R1rRNhmqpybFfPZOMagwEoLD623hZoHHWMFE-hHrwRnxZeBDA0Apz-hIM0OEFWVWhY-YTRTIq-Tox0JXLjKNgi_cNvEp2DlCGshPBskdUzwDdHmeVmY_gROKSEvYPxj8CJTylZU0ZD7S2T2ziRvDtSAUJKjDhT2ywrtg3O2vaq0z-wiFP7Eiv6cnWZfr4J4Rtcon_Rx7Wz1aiKfSl0Yfn6yS2QCvUa7p6tAupAZZxrAlxsqIpmTHtRZSt6vF0a1VnWVnSspMmg7ma89juy50HU5Q=w800-h453-no)

I made some steel spacers (about 52mm long) to fit into the holes to prevent the box tubing on the body from collapsing when the bolts are tightened down. I installed them with sealant.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/S75rBIw65Gmy24J0CXqrSeDzRBReNcMcDxTOxNVRjavOfGAQT1mWIFXu25QGrSU5zu32zjMnk8ZI_I1ENzDpWWOwZWW5Nh2kLl3FVK8waWqnsDPHJQL0tDZAwWQ6KzEI4qpRnPJ6ByWqgkyFEL4KUGDEtr2zebuxV7sr833fVnXwgGuxgBG5nsu05F2-HbwG4RIlGd3NI_6PSM-vpeKHu2L8K0lEw5mcf9jVHhVdPFqOK7Itssky_OGz4Tiw9JcqTxOLYDGW-3LPzH9cDmN3-iIypX_l8oV0l1h58V_PnoHRGI3alKWcK2NrTd5D_3gXM_F7jxNJLqqr8EskyGDPXTSXpPNmeD1l9wutdvleCS2-yKecRYRG-1d5jc2GZ_Eug9KHqePLFi283_XXcTk_QX2VJC2e4rgwjsnCikBt4RrLD6oNLuYPsNL6MjcJvRq_80ZTyRFEDigw573zMnrz4lz_ErTI0VKuvdbn5v7-4zpvwTru3PxSgdhshZNElkNq_jBD-CpCeamQg-xipuoh0TF83rB4zlcFTQg6io54c3CLlXb_IKe-HjZR7RuATFRmRKPv9GjgkMnQ1F-GBO-7JKtptg493cEpb6bxEaOzLw=w800-h453-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yf0ueEs0hrZ-NJsVNVehExoBxAPLnQAwPksgn42Vvo9yl1nL6iD6C125J7g2K07SuHEu0W-PAzqFSFwSwp-naOjkBe_jYcSVkPGXTz1zxYq2WD56jw90j0LoLWZTtUxpkopY8ROKW5dx5Q0jI5Aag1XGZ8FuiQSKAp4uTMsfcGvC_e8RcKDcy0iIZxNThjwPtEjHfOHm23WIgNKWxTS31dpvmoPcVs77LR94CLM4-sLNtvG0cOgvEXQHfqM54M8jdm_e2B8iPVCgSe_NtJmQlYL-nPykywsDFq1vvZLRHbZiHOmiBRSjI0-8aIALz2azMdbpIGLWvpcY5e9Qof0BLgrRHL2hhM0saEtSejXZNVobQYPGdtVZSxTOR7GTRm5w901TdTLcY9DwzZfq4AptWoeB-s73BL1o-8BRk2Or8zONr9g1bxlandNVLjUZe2gQnBB6FfZ4FE15nk9fFhe5e1Rc2eqyDzyvETrr3dwbG4AbWrFJPpwdN4CLkLjZcmhRh-q4_jdjKAfVWh8uXlDFxnzIXMiph20CQqqSMqaRlS8r9-LS8KZakDfZpDy6VgQtbXfrdxVb2U_ns8wTmtwfCieBYfH9ByvoP5ZBQOzuuA=w800-h453-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dJ--jGdrppe10MsDcImvaB5-7zE_hhuImmyYl6ug5ZeQJ_5WOAzoXDms6FQYhoUpmGYFE-PPPpR3WB9OCMqv-VuBcZwvHBDdc-7ERq5dilN92TDeBk49RTzse3DNOkA2pRHS3vV_HJ2d7Dm3izfa1v3E7JhhQnCGR3Cvk9C131ANkqUYOu5kCXLWQWALob6TmtHF_1euPC0lU9D9wzitkrufW6tTrkNGYfSfMbiRYeFZNab_yYFfIccv9Ff5qNw97Safb8_P__zWWhRvGvQtyCRKKtwWdje6F2fqWXQ8uCUy5WgFq7g5ILxboKo7_BpjhbdFGr6MypD8sL0YOAOWKcKUsd_skUmQKmQbda8OqxELhvnVkFWl7ibAVCuG2InjEbnlTw8QM1zVSUmaKH5grkPvRt5SfQny0ncs6YlXUD5KQ3TVkv041pZJNijb_MiVmjkHjOIbQ9VlWkxWxdjXWLs0kwBa3ENOFZGn-kkPCqBJKUHbWXJ5LuFw3hI7unc2JokWpEKtDQ0J47ugdXIMhnSTIgjRp5MvSNv0_tfHsKWiY4d089HSKpEVQtQXaSJjjLAdTtmMTvTKP9r08PX9slfNGaof0JaJNp0H5bP9uw=w800-h453-no)

I painted the inner edges to prevent rust.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/paKKFO192g0g-ZYfEyNbpHcRICFfAXVlAKoMbJJBg_ZzIzxmOnO385hbyPGX_WZR3YL86unNDy_ndVYjXy9hVuGTHYXUQgTGuVUqrgfd4R8dYbddSAKgkpv84stkHrX2f8hB9ouWhXB4RRui9cImZwhp9H-tv2RhGpfMtD82s_FVxxAjO-xersuTv1CbU0fKHmuEclKSq6iFqkQqfJym8K68d2o6Ckx4-UPV7jh4VP06PoDaBVOEWAYuxBVQwKqCKaX1rjyCJGK2PQitP65COgCU9RlsT4jJKJi_1w-ZZ1Ttf0PckCRlzLtxMpi-dfpFW3saF48buUdPFgrKcxNlb2Zh96eZGGfyt-t5tIFXsW0wDi2qxCsWXtzF6rB7EOIYNBGRvolQwAB2NB_eyJvf6zKqsCwo9jZTaAswK4T7sgFyAMVPuwRsqIHPHWiZACHok82Nkaz3q27kfwPUH6W_cf82swmZ8P5b4OIT21pEs0CBWXT3m0ByR2BoHz7hvNRs_kvl7efL3tXnEuq2TLAumLRR2oEyIgaXnMKleZVEk7y8YQDYXfBliaXEmguKaB08pIxR0JZ2PysAFQGOqLH2it4yldr9GoBSPGzZiRo-2A=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: ptashek on 04 December 2017, 04:07 PM
Just to address one point: "Why would a company suddenly move production from a country like Germany to China?"

Supply chain costs, and operational efficiency. One of the biggest operational expense in making cars is supply chain logistics. The industry - following Toyota's lead - has been shifting, for many years now, to a just-in-time supply chain model, keeping minimum on-site stock. This in turn increases logistical demands on so-called "Tier 1" suppliers - the Valeo, TRW, Bosch, VDO, NGKs of this world. Long-term it is cheaper for them to move their own manufacturing plants close to their largest customers or markets, than to ship a majority of their output all over the globe all the time, dealing with unpredictable weather, natural disasters, conflicts, industrial actions and what not. And often the pressure to move comes from the customer themselves! And yes, sometimes they move just close enough to solve the logistics problem, but far enough to avail of cheaper labour - hence Mexico v. USA.

But there really is more to it than just skimping on labour costs, or not caring about quality.

Guess which country produced just shy of 30% of the entire global car output since - according to online data - at least 2009? China.
Combined with India, which is just around the corner, that number is closer to 35%. We're talking about two rapidly growing markets, with ~2.7 billion potential customers.
"Why would a company suddenly move production from a country like Germany to China?" - from a business perspective, isn't this reason enough?

Last, but not least, here's a shocker: N000000001061 - instrument cluster bulb - an MB re-packaged part, mass-produced in China / Thailand and sold at nearly 20x premium by your local dealer.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 04 December 2017, 05:40 PM
China no doubt has the ability to make good parts, but their track record is poor, so it will take a lot to gain my trust of their quality. I like sticking with countries that have proven reliable in engineering and production quality. I see what you mean about the domino effect. Then again, if large scale auto production hadn't gone to China, this wouldn't be necessary. It's all a game of cause and effect. One seemingly small thing leads to another until we are living in a totally different world, for better or for worse. So often it seems to be for worse.

As a side note, I ordered a genuine Mercedes rear crank seal for an OM603 engine through Pelican Parts. It was marked as made in China. The part looked legitimate and even had the hologram on the packaging. One of The Classic Center employees made a comment in a forum post about aftermarket parts being made in China, stating that if the poster had purchased a part from Mercedes, they could have avoided this. I replied with a picture of the genuine Mercedes part that was made in China. The Classic Center employee's response was, "I don't believe it. Mercedes never has and never will sell parts made in China. What you have is likely counterfeit. We also do not sell to third parties, though there is an operation that is selling counterfeit Mercedes parts. One day we will get them." I found that very interesting, because either I DID receive a counterfeit part, or Classic Center employees are refusing to acknowledge that some of their parts are made in China.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: ptashek on 05 December 2017, 01:00 AM
They are refusing to acknowledge I'd say.
I've an MB dealer issued invoice to prove those bulbs were bought from an official source.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 20 February 2018, 11:39 PM
I'm still using my car as a truck.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fsGZMxe1NcvU5wZQR3uO1LLRMvYrbdOhZJWC8hcvB1_xhRUWLiyxUL1PCsnGp5xkBlvnrROgz9BwDKaWQTaz-DetcHVNzo3945alPdHPezxeM0BvimuhdY2FSQmNYWzqkAGX0N79LuZce0dNMBdj_kpn_27q9qx4mq_LILpX6sTaVyH5V8c6QZa29TZZcnt18SRpCvTij3IpMoBQ4Mk8eBmDhknE91soyfvKoqDy7b46SzrPuKVOF4Wsbn_4kg0f5OfcikH0enfKePR90B5TT9iilIlPQOjTSwoxUsN4OLLYefx3PxEM694jxeVoQALo6zurrJGsTONEp-QQYCLuGgQcN4bSfWla0QabWt-y306sRXVNpfKfUyKKURTHlncM2YDrEQtoki1WV6KEWPQktBdSsb0em-Y0aPK9DmyoN_iHOBwpMAUzypQcOr_p9nCarF1XcYj40xsUOI_X8rgi2hjf_9SUXZh0DvyV9FJcjXQgVBe3t2mrij1rPN0gXQSse_-mgpBM9DXiRHoUx6aTWKG9uhH_Ospz1zk6tznUl9KRbHC7yEYfcTnwvauDazzR-FfP2MtkL_R_B6qLtepNYFLsuvCzR0a5rGtCnLKrtURthKrmw-GMRf2cnhfGk4PcZKzUIYCo3Ou4x1GgsPylskdCuIfGy5XD=w800-h453-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/DZx3JhSZtlX4WtIgzuq1xFignJUZ_TqBy5vOL7Zo_zLti_2jSUTECT6lGtfT8x7NOT99UJ01B3TYCHbm2n0N14fQPjebqjxLF3raxxpe2Uj_gBDaa1iuEHG8V5_tQapOhy2r5fUgzmZsKLACzoRa3tQ3CPbO2nGGY-OC3zKY8WrUP32QosTexCPk_dN_zyjJziyRVriARB9uCU0dgGbjVElqJhSqE0bQxm3-mZjWiYe-fjJN0Yd5Lk2VyqpkCaZRh4xMJojUePRBuCJbLt_YYDX9lGSNHL7SHK3u-TlNlrVTsP6hN9TNKVVObKl1mMX2sQ7XMF-Mp9jqed46XNx--3mbw1A2b8tri730cWsDzQ8oNV6-94FPEESvbyF7Mr9T5AH7rImF6R2w__kGikQNeYY6zV1rORlI2uyODZVGemg-QXEBnS3Re8MC3INBea8En34zj-PzTZyAOfttZBllmIefTQbg8cgqFyvk05B4IY1LniEOk71QjF_gbaB7gmRw_K-jQFGkXwrolhVZjMROUlcDJ8rSEpOyH5R0-iDMWVyWALKdAqV6qF1bExRKod1qjj9ntMY5-s4Wd0fVDUvqie3l8HF1ZJvvB-CSVau-9vPWTr_yGaKrta-Z1lK1DPy0sDxoZQNO-FYNxdOe3CUaD66r0gqaeu5J=w800-h453-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jda7OR6oGbYMHudSBjPfXjgSsbDJ_QB6zL-ZN1k0vCjCwzupukI2s01WbiGwZPVJIIWdwLGcJypE90yPCJiAmFl9OVo9w6jFJTTzJeyNQeQA5DQpu51RTSdHF4E3jVUSDGy9b4Rd-2hAS93oNC9qpXfkRkAvYALX8HEf6wb93FBcmtg_O8iX7mvp0Yife_sAEQgXS7PyZanGKBj7SByCw40aXL7-x_OBJQoyGqdUy_SQzw2VrX3rm5H3Dgm7S-DhgMMhdIApebNzozuHyrpZB0ckcy8zyXIfZNxwXiX5j0Bei5Ho2Q-zOrpdhC8XkRFg3a6VV41ygz13d4bRjVnjoPRpse6Y0qSWESG7YyT1z1Oc8fZurqSgluQFHiKFtIyWalxZkf_aQOOE76o91vulmr4h8-ZpOcRiQ2IzLOaJB1DPkSuEydYMiJkxzud2N-oI2yHp0fe3f9L37D_GghXmBH204MN0rEMolX9Zt-sxiCYa4qxAMWw8vlwGbA__XI-j9Esepk4dMCmGpHquAwCxHGIAi-5MHw5t9ExVfaZwO2ONfcQ2hNLtitAYBldHlqKketXNUjOX_IfVVc6inQkkFpv_rIGLAsmn2teBUQT3y69Yfn3emxoI7D1YkumPtqIqo2zpFhSWbGEYGWe72OfqOsA_n6vqhDU7=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 20 February 2018, 11:54 PM
My car has been without wheel covers for a long time. As mentioned in an earlier post, I installed aluminum wheels but my wheel covers wouldn't fit them. A friend sent me some of the special stainless steel wheel covers that fit the aluminum wheels. I removed the dents the best I could and sanded the scuffs. I used oven cleaner to get off all the baked-on brake dust and grime. Paint stripper removed the old paint with little effort.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/LTpE_RO1j6e5wrB_tBy6Mtxyfo0uMugv6hZpgAz8ceibsyzBvGNFA12_1aD74i8zKdfhvO9-GVib0T6J5jm9kLNbXzeIA8v52ZeV-GUsuqrDkUcbrxiYwFC5TwszszQDk-RI432UontxSu7-27xEIW9xKjHuUjxwshCNcbqEylMmc1IF-kF73_VPqM8-qRyU8l3_QRctkyQyx6db5ItLq5WQOHDGxXZSI1AWyGDTOHXw1tPGb_ejb13V6pZBIFv3rZEp1bfyHhOng8SVRqLV2jZX8JnFIhwChKdRsvd8b3fMSGZqp1a_nC6iBuyCdib_q1uV1dWZ1Gi7nt6Pn9WDEFbYhOjtVxwPPaXNIn2WsJiCbbkBVHdDVzpTYMvleXoeUQfY6XRih2h8tSpp4y9sRz9y0ExBvbYc_A6q4O28D4tbEJOBNZBscO75VdVG6yvZpVjJK4yz27H9UdrfkLIbrros9Hk7lDn1qLkzKSvi6a61zsFqVrFMhHUu-WcvVxoHFzcEr3FT0hDq1Z6BQpV0NEqtOnK2eSUnWZKvq7-rateE06LXtbEWrD8cWNsRyIYiJE-ZI0S7pUCfYiGEBk40YK7TAPWJXrVehq4rsuxLRbK-X3BwFXogPPJO9XJslSRH5-fMwvUyQzvO-aUCq2qWNkodV1rHBOvJ=w800-h453-no)

I used a stencil that my roommate bought me, which helped a lot, but I had to use paint thinner on a rag to wipe off areas of overspray and had to carefully wipe paint off of the outer rim so it would make a crisp line.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/g9QvJMXBg7ESZ5uVttKgbG2z931Ro1DyyjcCjWLoKEt6lT7WXBuez7bmzWJhnUJQyUtjAK2UIms2mNnL9no4Q_0eO3K6_BsjDhngLw4O7oV8bjgSB7gGiRPMK178JqWLIzU73V5zbJpyRIxv8eps_ZrBiNsYltrJsA-hdcBpuR6OR1B0IguWI3TRdDdquoBt00kVURKOX1tffZ15mubIeh6LeYZnWX2uSINxctyiwOJfwjLNMoBhif8W_uGbpio0x3UxYqTecK-UZsGwqAMKvjAdSz41GGcUOTLd-8mo4sQ0CDz7jeznUGyhRG1fMtBPBg3sLw5q6sd8OVfRHCHBZiH9UeiswVMIXd5w7YcXcwMRrLmMHhgcwpb_nZa40qei8VA-8Hs_T9m_L71sC_vwa_pFEsfOHt9W8bFkeHaV8K7us7hWEpwUndjCsnYewx7q9oCLCQPwUSn3g4yLY8s4x1Sze2F5YBBTUYikyi9NM1je-_nZdxIarGOToYa1VlwTZk4ZEN_TS7A5rCEiAfK2iY3pYI39Aq5nY1jpsizKU47WN4i91Q-KnpuQp2UPYEqMzJqHKjc-vVn9QNJhadtDnjIxuDbKqMZe3Cseme8w8EGA9msqT0fA_1ibt01wzK1dr3LuO-pcrX_1URBoTrmlD4XnTBS3eDEJ=w800-h453-no)

I wasn't sure whether or not to prime them before painting them as it made it a lot more difficult and the factory didn't use primer. I used primer and it was a lot of extra work.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Xkup-CPmCrn1eZGwJ0QBlREgi9sT_hAsF88HV4pVnfJjyojbrjYSI3PGfLBbAuSOgDmiE5EtWnm1Eo8Rr001g0_mrlJ6AIroAUA__uMUiy3fSWb3XE4bafwmnHXAwLGNFn66gCB4m2lFmrfp50xizqiDiOKZmfRXHPnwcXM-ffU2K8PHDdff1nwpPK3ZMenhgTccTmuTTEt2faToHy6lLCqJuS4H-UmHT9lZtB_fJvzIbgr1xkeCrCxEh4vrmFRUDknGwxZYOEga_GcF7lO6Ge8_tWEXjoh59UgGlVAuEiXAD0QaLPnhYKKk6L70tZbXxPtVoDX5yCzEyf1Kfw5Yj0EvKf3wtTdU9zk7xesR9BExLVCaR1l1458kQwvKf-AeNiJEd9laZYXjUXY58K3qucVK2Gn-2-tN5j5jbfYLqdGNWKT-L5xRL5-Ud339aJFd1gX777A_O6qKL1THxUzXTtiMU9AUQavUmUbi8RQJASICvymRPhJkfvF9qwsJmxbyJBmrALWnUo8Tb1dnBkWpBm5sLa7w-xQ4eSWCBLpQixRX4rys4eZIiA93wHCO-neYzg9AP3T95ClRkr0sga7KwzjObyJUOTzbFD6faKixPlGgEH5ki05bWCKpD_r-ntovnC9IjAr3T-gw-LwRC9bTj8YCGPH0MMAS=w800-h453-no)

I painted five wheel covers so I have a spare. Painting them was a first for me, but they came out acceptably. There was a lot of overspray, and it was nerve-wracking to use paint thinner on a rag, but it works like an eraser for paint.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/afECRc1IXI-dhw3TtaymLnDQAW03QTWA5AWt0-ZTL7zd3nITnhXNc7zr2cUn8NSn-xGk7a58_sadW-z3AvlSgcFst4Mux3h2txfMrpSTT2GlE-mFIPLb7pHegtOlf4fiVPklXOjoLwZs84rJMnmJw7o918uw14PlaBJuYBKuYthV0_odGycMjR7YEe616iF8qm6KpKiZ6jTQOtIY3dJ0fjZcz9c812hOMbs8cZMdm5W0VlnIaKD5aBgfDQc58dM4UOUf5UuXVoe61dBdhCzoUXv4DNwe0OL1GoHVfQsl0ZEDYpXjtWFpl0zFEhn_Q06dFeckP47zBti9XpM4cflGG9RI95H8LtoaAyPtpt5OGuQslTgwtK0MWT5GA2pXAy1ItdKzZPwC6FZDOIZZnBB_ZcMhMrXn1GM3ZaJl55bK0vdK4-O1dt5V6-HuEqdce85xPCXgENWQ_076-DkVerY4g34EraSW9knGNIipmTDIny05DUL9gXZQy-cI_upeX6QpsVX4opYYQOzHcc8pFkQqJ5CxzgZHU5g8gBCQGJ0dZJgentOI1i0Dd6rDsSCA4QzDHz5jcC1YAuyltowsnG2afcOosKRYb0BcszEiB0zDB3pGdTI5lQECa6osREHjBIxipOTywx1llhuswbinfmMTCSzcFK2162E2=w800-h453-no)

I think that letting the primer dry overnight was a mistake, because when I sprayed on the paint, it didn't lay down very smoothly, though it is smoothing out with time. I might wet sand and then polish the paint so it looks better.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/muYQnENZi2b09cy--ojdtBjDMjufKpoS9WM9YHtvn2rWbX60jaHvBMWZdV9e-GCazAbNCD1O8vYKDb1Rg1D0lXX90tlqTnr_AqLGOjCGf2PORQytiJ48pk1j1V3plru4AYu7P9zr-5tTCnQqdV1ZjoxELrxHsOouoXBOsakJyGbmJOVFNFp_T64y3WLCFiyhAkSH0K99lt3gvBtYNMbU4NEmlabwPMTru94iDtEJSmIOn3H4cLSGMSKVnTQM44XEKBxFDbBAJIJZXaQlqbgO5YAA3m7eGtlZTFDyjHCylN8gFvJ_qHpxYCdTHC0Qq-7u3AFP8f6VqFhdwb6Um4Hi2FXzkNxid2fTu2JFshpFSwFAWPukbJbbc0lE_ze14ToJCHlnrIoEU_mZRPYIDhY_o5Fki12j0f8pfNWOJMCiDCKSTFny4lSxvD9eQ36Nwknl6-N75MiUPwfk_ZFf_NZBajnGTXvPo1NpJDgvwN8Flpa0xIS-Yq42naqTfSyOaplHtY8koZjcC4JAY2tIvW68MWvCxg9OFSIyPutnWHQ_U-ejhgSzTIhsM8DRT91a3gi_P45Wjq9P3kt9inflY-0oU0TwT2XKzO95RsWd5EMFW56djdkBUa_7epMsbnCD8CLucfZbBItoSnkMhi5b5TIkKdBCmJFDkCxO=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 20 February 2018, 11:59 PM
One of the wheel covers had a large dent on the raised edge where the chrome and paint meet. Using a ball peen hammer and a sledge hammer, I was able to get it almost perfect.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_td0_iabtRykd6nUF-gBrjlLHO2-jhMhNptlX2h_y8etUgwHmQSoqIF6r8rk5vMukPXsKIAGaJQVsU8vobmj5rU8UMsVh4jGzCq8YG-P-AHddFJsGGIO42mJr4BUtynStq1fw2w-nigGzvlttNRLV_G9jvXJC7FDaPJmI465hMPb6u2-NHiCXTH7sQY9cYvV3Puq990YPiwzLXMYw4a2vxcTjfQHxXarnXcqZ9_sSBD9xedolACIChK59dwW1VFjsNO0mVibRYT4DRps4H34okBz6rFKXT1qvgKDoFfdsySCjYpEgf60rwEYaFFGAu7BQ50RA-cGWnlhtm6e6oetGpFmA-dNZI4gx7MFU-TRG2-3B7I3f_XwZu047lI_xSxvIwsDFkItE0gDMxfmVL_BFlobtWYemNUM7im4u7_iHpUWoiIJ61H2LBDqu5hE3kpgIdnqNNzofcIDyutHfcvFtdq7ZdYQSgDZlrNYw3St5FvH6Td6aq8VU2Yzcg1Bq2jEK6swD-gPKO9mMBwOevr2xgfA2BmSbUTfMVftHoTLF-N3Ee1PJZ2XQjvPoiisVj_HvicQMQeMf1GLgoabIqk3Pd3TjtpE77xvhHlcknBSV7DdaqaN4FyR-XY5RrBGJWkBptDeOTRSLHvJ9EdJZRmm4DGs83s7QMJh=w800-h453-no)

A couple of the wheel covers were scuffed, so I sanded them starting with 400 grit and ending with 2000 grit and polish. In order to completely remove the scratches, I would have had to sand almost all the material away, so I did the best I could.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0th32X2sPj-hD5YjGSbGmTy1DyAKUoidz1vk5JbPSoHZJuHF1wJko-4kjfdbZnYB4lIQu-qm1Uom0AdmPXq1IfWdUEgSnF0HKvzNezHXXU8RWRxFpAUbrU5xt1vnATGYylyYSX_PUpVtv4vhfBchXDhaahYND-BbHJg9fjZ0Ty094GfnucC8usHVkH2xhvTIZdWfI5qKU3AiA6EbxOlU62bKjw1zQLfF7KC_fqGAbp1PR0_QwuuJBjhF8UZPSAveOAD71bhVYFJaToW8qbU3G3PKv6tPQY4dQMsjpd1vVZ5ZAwrKHsDN9rqJM7ETDkY1UzwmaMGo93XpZb_NgzLxiGZGTZsFLMz1yg8gsH7Z_HbDkjPVLwOAitC5DLjbDOrKAvYEpkxvMCEUiHCRY2EsYvVywjoIEbUODtwgwUJrxmpkvwhHdBCGr3lOMzTULN5NFnKoxsyPNyEJ5-_fe5nNglFJl8MnTaVoazI97YzbckCtHB46UpX_pqa3mtCPGRAjdQOQX4TmRcyRqhjet-uj56dEzYBBxb6xZEq_61QuJCbw58yk2VJmjTCACgVVaYEF6J4-7m-Jf6zpsoCkG4am0664ZTtamrgI3rRJy_jBQbAnF7c2_CLpOmCnOIuYAelr7fhZ_v6JyueAQJAYmCaM_FbmfhPPVV54=w800-h453-no)

I'm holding up one of my old wheel covers in front of the ones I just painted. They look almost identical, but the old ones were chrome-plated steel instead of stainless steel and wouldn't fit the aluminum wheels.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sHODOoG9f2j-s50TX54T9RLw4UxqvphpwBClKPqHUHYnb4OpbwNKCgzPx5siFPBSLT3sQw5KWaZ-NhYaeWpo8jDHpTU-ZpiiMLC9bmWB-OSy8JyJCQ5bAhgx_vEiXEi7POjGcM2Ilgy6BKuWcZLM1g7ovhiqohgMXnuT7FQ9RnkaNgyr2WhcT8sjsA4rXO13kBaFp_O4KPlwiK9H8JTPCWe0AIbF8TCvnoVnlBHo7ooiaiZxLjx5Mcf0x4LQfM6Stu-3TTXnZnkpXrooJnyfRQYfdilJOwRr76rdxh1a5jG7HRy4XShy5tJPXM4-1zrufRHJZ4_qV66hFeyQhLzhvXlO5QSmABecfXNUVE3qw4ic35yBLCPl0o8FuzTiWuF0azdqGqysXoV6kJfCT0LkgcLls7JptW9kBKbAfqJUFg6nJr-4wOrEzAcYfi7Q_iPzxwZafanTd14I0-jt4VCQg_lIhQaW5N26PU08rsMhpmkdSOzYjr18I2ku77kvt_2-lfHzUYG0nWmZg7wWZyw1Em_DhieQAXMN9hfXRc2iwoxtf4dXeZb5PeKNcX_B4DMyPLjMeyyOUJ-iTtlauFNcydoRTcOld3xB_im7SmKwOJgbAbv-Bzm27IO9q6-ef67CHN5UlX9_kiwr0_E0wpLN5VqOU8EeoSCe=w800-h453-no)

I had a whole bunch of clips for aluminum wheels blasted and powder coated. They have Teflon inserts which protect against scratches.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tPp5Sjn3PEZ8-vyHxffpQy-CS1DQCRsIKbIWU4KStKI21wnnlcurP4edNYdi2o1ICLRwuwMtozneffkVSiqc2jyofBSFstGhRmhp0R35d_mAUmNvR4Fm12Zf0kkerKUfjUMSj-rPttxQ92-xfuZ7k9DB89Lh9tScrBb7fxh7bxEOvlThhkEq_IUlXZpQ8y--RXXJG13yzKuClV45LFwAYpG0w9bCZYLDDEU4v7KzVfEjqPHcJYQVrR4BAJnhaWcXvFygEOvZU2s-_utzbZLRCv4Fn-wiTXHHy3tBO5t8dWLDPjSKIUM3DucxUUyp0SvZen0P0CYQ2QZBYPoRgliCSpNL7WkhYj2FhVsYoGFsSacIg8P-E7faVxXBDxqPWVJsRN-z__RbUFjHKgK73FuIpDVN8iUsd5qQMPJ8pW7fgf5xygOYX8sumQG9uIPzKZ3nJUcIw7podM1sbIED-AzumcL0Up4V0k-NUSamnzhZ9FrYcoO-M5lwOB6tRt0LuBHbtVeRFhMEeSTtGzJ4BVFVDJ-m__OzScTK7oVogEhKJA9cMCVD4u9JYXUXy5kgSc3gVLjGh-O_34GdeQZIqAyivbBwXzv5jIWEp1WyoYluhrehaoOoQRUdYT-0LtugmSL9BZQ1n1_JJFIxth9f8XDN0vpv0y2bLy2G=w800-h600-no)

Installing the clips wasn't difficult with the help of a flat blade screwdriver.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zCbgmGzMg5zGqaFBY1vh-EfpMcG0d5Eod-os3QWrJKfPSW3_LVSnT04auFD56l8XSXr8G7PlMDfS-a8sXS2n1xrXj55DGATOL818rR16_OZGfM3dgXTygiMdig_cChna07pbgUbsqT7MpPTavlmHFxqFnmTl4iQ7Eye9s-8DHBb_iAHko4HZ-ZdT7u-GMEQP7ochq85vgfI33rvDQRN7H0z_t2RkcZx4OZgAhHKboKsq7lED0WwOWtZ6qwQjym0gXYB962Y520IphN3ZKbKbJa9yvvWNkJ54ZHjt4qynIQlmgVJyjIlgZuqRyKUd3UiP5bck7laEFkmwYXZMbv2aXC6VOp0S646CuYCCqFIWXskwYwZwAxFvKRu57hT-roiv6gP4B9KSAWPPSFRwBGQTx2vxVBAjHasN84TMnvJVg04yTN5OhLFznpWr63nE2zzkA_RyNC9nFA3Lx8COqTDY-qa6gnbU-RCShjj-UFB1lgotQNQjzgyn1vbE3Fvkw0C5kSwzzjRaZ7l9trfPXaZwBYkXK3cpMJSMuPjtMirCR6GQXPSfjUFDSetutcR88Te5hul7AuhWE_IMN7AmLoAdqw9X0XSF3ZEoo_0W1mZoqfVIqieI4Wt8gAWbwcMRannuMrmg5cUG1mROettmLe5gFUKwscrTpqgU=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 21 February 2018, 12:24 AM
The fifth wheel cover fit on the spare wheel, even with the hold-down hardware in place.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Q3ekvHlBy69aXJ-P23muNe1pN6R28x27I1oZZNanjOKIS3e3dPhCKUsMWAIff7X3kuxd_zhLguSc4knYJUh2HHO9XJdE96cVSE1g5c-DB1OqXYFWXWi9Otq9F5ya-WpCqZAopM0Gb18xevkV2jgEHOQ19LFzivyS54y2XskHF19ECXjZpB3RMQq6PowfGxWWDoC9vNm8JicX_kCvXe5HrZ2NK_5QoHyxRt_-kMG_PgGvH6rJgxCZuxcmz36tT5hx6jBSdA_DFamKUWp0lcFTJ7BTxte-S0Gjld1V_5LSZwhVgQzbXZYF2hKggbk250qHqm9d03R9s9uSlpD0LfcMnKgjJnUzwiAuswEaj0RGgwOtdXVEFK6GWcV-X16SexxCdjzrExHaaVxGIUGCs3bJndUtr7b42T42KYNPXDqfo1C-sQMFyJK00XVkeBC1Bg-bXP0r-rVBGxGvdlBY9N52oxNJ1LswGe5FvZk70CPDmbOMrU34KicQXE3Tj7Z2tHY-4_Xl1ig9q16ETqd2dlUba4B62ctg9OupNBkXeIbe4oC_FCWi8xz7Gc_2x-tjnwbVvnBjX_SVg0Gklyst1NhDUq0brRfgFumngJApt94y43tclU-VPEGR4KHWppJ81f_Fx5p-RdR9aucQgn05d1rBBB7g6jvPdghk=w800-h453-no)

Yay! My car finally has wheel covers again. I wet sanded the paint and then polished it so it would be smoother.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HA31TYM-7wOmqkHeAaPQ6TEwWJqyUg9jgh1GfXpHL6sbGdYODSZbET2615KoQLt71FdKEFX6RsaJbuB9vOvM9Ue5ilk4kTW5hXOjSvA2w7Q2IEML77m2BtDEFO9IJf0dE2FHvjXt7W_NUnSjbTKYJ_NOCGEOezwwmVLS0d-xwKVeiIh8-ALCN86MU7fQ2m3WCh6ThLOAYs35J5_gn_Wx1FC_ixUZ5_zI8cDa2M8PcnaaRU0oOJBm50ipM2YYp3a6hC4dKDZv45qwe3psJbTZ0sFViEx9IJwVSsxVl9pkGiA1EOuJlPr8LdtCMM3Gtv10JQJ-AeAEoxNHc4Cd1VSWiNYsWzb3muFhHVu_wiJliGddXrypsUajtAXD1Rt4m2wlentM3nuZjZQGP7-zetbgzeEeF8pclQVl73DR7ihlmQu3cGy1eWl0x4VuoDLbnM81XGNiAQ9EgPeBlxDCBTMeT08MwDdy6ibyNaLA6DJmzrfCLT0w_w2mQGDHM7Vzd-qwxUMG8HNO5vnfvVtzV9bSyQfCk4oHuW5ZQPeexbBtKnTN_r5rBqZz5HiOBa3La45hhqAjBlbxCO5cnrpC3cm4j6ZdMs44Jb3oBBLvQzAEzjWkSrXHheFjWK07D_ponxx7XE2XxNW84EO3FAa3G7tN0CHlGFpJbIX9=w800-h453-no)

I spread the Kurgo seat hammock on the back seat for the dogs.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/cg6MZkAn1XsuOlKV1Bz860FzcoE8DF-j3QTQvQn9FMQUL2H_RF4hYCsSUEqWOQi0Q0j1yFKU4iJlS8uEBXtNYi6jxudLwztodSPWyYSDfGfiO8t0_P5RnSYcogMwT8SQ7joRnGFlrZLBC5EqmxC4sXxiDVwkBH5706DLcmL-o_lyV26ITWSLuevoWygBPJJG7oGER7xPX_WaJiHq8Ftf8lhj9GIDjy0DouWWcXSxeU9zCpO99CwO0BtHGct0-sktOIldT-S0vGPqQynJt2J7YCfU1Cdv20F1lplK9j2v_QDkur4bsjh86eU8Qp2EqIZ3RYfK9qGtWYmKzck5mICgBr24gSxz76z6jydkwnEQP1mSLpgGZgE_s05s8tu05uX9sqHZFwvSdoEj6N_b06khkMM4s6U3hmhSG5jVi_QdXSjj6foR8Lp5gdfGqSY00Xwet2zUuvsvlP-mNsLaVClHmii31nPVVdNCkH78eBx7tQj37qKvvRR76s18UBbO5zCAgXW50_NM76dVf_1ndzr2sEbelqlTgm6ypA_-wwLWnhNurw7XRnXh1Z7fQU0iu6kdHFwxx55ll4P8WXhILCyZLv3DwDNA61fDEjKsgcKryhX1EF6FOF0ngeb-oCjvTucbjqAp1YGblNgb5Am_Gskz37yWvJ7oSHeG=w800-h453-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lzkTfRagPp41ixZzm-jSUUv7qeGnH4FJPo5gJ13BDaYeDpgwZnPC5bn-obnPrSs9f4WNz80eRjb_xMoCzNqbcdOAF30bXgInsnumDpIwq2db7CFVzTFi9okSG_Hehtx6083QreXYZmCvz9OhxSdhWpyi09-KxtbM9VLXHWp2Eg0ZMAHj07M21uWMiT00xCIT4xiGUpBtEcANLv7GiiAXBKJkdub8dH-ROij7Va42I1-uOg6kktx8nON2h_8TkUHrFRwuMKGHA_LlrAWvSwxVmMu_rq0Gvdjb34WnbOSNQcQuR_ZFMx8DsYOap_5I_7DhzS8j6MRRg_T971fLwU_FaUL7Ix_-35bR1i9pFWlEw7PXtzb5pyXUUynuAhPbQC5FS6ianA3LWG_7iJUsMqCSCgyf96NSKZncuehrYtDmQfj4AOrV3viRfnCwQv6r7FvV8HHXq0LiGMeLt8-Yi2yZHQpS6KRL62FzKW-k5MaolpbKbNk7S0mv0XwhDgWsYF_EARu7K9e8M20sOOnC1DZT7kZCYiKAqhrCbaVgqTuTPsz9OyZsqFIZ9WZ-bGNYCCUgqhArg522MCLY1YVJAmHTtO-L5lDMjtXee3gA91SC-I7k95H2InD3lllSsiOPRk50N4E5EUNVr_40Qx8OSUUzvyW90J-1Gk5I=w800-h453-no)

The paint wore off of the front license plate, and my roommate gave me a replacement with a larger star that he found in a wrecking yard.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZZIIDZbpd2DjIK-XsSEMxGvCoS182XbtGUtHuYSftcQR1tve-FR4DmE86ZLsCJCk7V7yPZZH-4wsaOwCJU88Vf2idSEOjN7a61Ausyz5Ikn5o2z7GN211yeNyi5rX8XITbXCHFmqCSIe2ENCIYyBTAkX8eSCiDJODaWx6wK8hcD6ogWO1nZn13vDcGiqtJTqF7C416sfPK7bN7AqD1THJofRiaY9nsxVXj0q6pOujTESaS56q0bVk6qr9b6mjtaxmnlv644eu9kzlNnibqyBa6vkTb18ZirR6nuckU7h2z2W0lisdcci_f1K_pUF0mU62geKka5XUjVXaDNkkIoJNrvmQRiZO_Qz1oX7Jaa0Ol-QTmgJEIgzGkjYLeITz8-rdk6wphIgMPxqQ5Ja698cW7mK4vsOeePo4Ldc8-9NwZHnJC-y_fhQM8h5Ho2LubNYk5lDMogAOGPQYHpIM6Q34YMX1Qil_9AYqd5Um2fRLl8U-CRXD2oLVC8eWFPYI1dY_xf_lBSGKgsHsiFvSYk_EvWkoiU_NpK4anWBqiYeH-NXvwJtUPe_6Fa99r6FFJXsB3kVIluD1TvsfsxUk3B6JrqvpJWV64joLszICpcLItkVJCKQSAoXfBjtBR4LYx7ulE9hGiHFuju65xcWBMmICQ3RPsUAMzEA=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 21 February 2018, 12:29 AM
I finally washed my car for the first time in YEARS! I've just been too busy before then. I wish that the paint was in better condition, as it's flaking off all over. It's interesting how the clear coat wouldn't shine up at all, but the paint in the areas where the clear coat had peeled off buffed out to be very glossy. I am not a fan of clear coat and one day when I have the car repainted, it is going to be single stage with NO clear!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JZT0RpCYb53uldRVd2MxsrcLVOQQZMUOc_mLK15rh4oRxcUWf40-Y6G5gyja3Rpf5EK6B-v0nahHckFX9yVhmwE_k0OrCAbHn74cM9_T88gfTnV0DgAEWxLTAB8dKD3KxKGZ4k4c0XQh9hFZ76LqNVFBVblTUy47NDMzjJwnzAcduaoWgpcBczVOPm-JIHpoLyEQvL94ye_btWmlCI0t_ltfThYx_E3N6qz31BJEIpd-oLLCcksam_txxcWeCuYr5brCM1wa-F--etlrbBFBC_X-LszSnlVQkiGhXw550ErLsdbpusyVlSnC2TieN4tETzbVH6i4i-kF1rEyEYoJDknW3UbHiYUI2U5qsbag-qi_dYQ0Si7loTZ9iMTRszUA7pwBx2zMpAPSxVb3c_A5iUTxj0R8WknC_aeUxG4cihOgvgruPadK0EJNESdqqvXcZ1hUJ2ozRuqFqhzrARMi9IDUefpVYiCXQ1eIKQg1EK9DunsbEBbCs1nv0pchTCIzRdbf9s89hEoCfbhCWo0GxnKpX9LUWdBiF9ZY4YLcfuLR8araxxyyh4D84wkCq1aGjFV99A7V1QOXLMITgPHt75NuMq35_LFz96kbyxNOpsDA6qLzwxR1sJAmBdAi1kX5aaH7JUTTbDGPUwQelFpmh0A8bJlMX6yN=w800-h453-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ng7ODt6FLqfLWvzTEjVkU9vTUFZ-oj4lifePzz4b_R0p2Mw2-osbkHlTRqtNhaQ0uh-43BDasi_0I1a_rhubqajURgy6PGWj7S-riXDndUrlXnZF1FmS2UP5ERtKZcyAUmNgJ8UN3Cn5cQX8_JXhgHtfU0-6jLzOpiuXsj5sOcWN0_4JSRKEVyXrv64OaUMfRCWaVp2CMbnxqDfaXezVcZVxKh1HhZJEJ9SGdzHEI24NTY1hIvMId5yihVSKwXWpE4yldk2_mYSAbRuudgoRoDMaNhPUr0-pM1z1Gd7LqVoDxTl-7jBQVyq690mh_Bm6InDMi1HDskdBWwxeidXDRtLPVC3qWPzbJESKQkoNNnmLG8IfM-KnZtOM6JUVCVgmpOI0T1SyYFkhdaeRPWX-ESkiTeJIuwJNPIw1oDy84lc6YLF_be-vDU6zYDNGSYxbC6WjKPow9aK2jtkhsbX4XK1qYnlcSqskuH-6_2Sqb-xLtN_1tm7Fs9FjtFLMbOEGK3FzHOZ9j9LZHvBlWOaSZp9xJeo_r-6xHDBaLRBi1w99SE_mFy8EoXEUznhuIos6MnVLq_7pDDHEa4mcOxizICgIX16XAWwGb-XEe-50yVJO-OouwXKjQr-dFgwcB9sSuCH4PpNvzc9iYfI_bChfDYuL8V3Qx_MQ=w800-h453-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jQLmGyWFxKcBpO07ytpQKuaeV0ApLcKcU-kjNhtU2WDy0izcw8fsIku_K-Mzgq57UTgmg5dUKOjCJ4G010sO99tHYBzChXeUYtGerwHtt7LFwbQ2v14NIC0goqjhW6ORMeSmQu4Ncu4zywe76mU0lKc6rhUIsKkXuRX26lFx2bGj_ffiBaS3M2keua9JKyZtgkqjMVQdGWxLa86Or-6h3JIfGzTQ87JaOjIpaQE-O1JhtMNPkm0wDJVLvmUqv7VZoGTPSTom9qVN0QyffSVp5SLW1vfacIOp8xmmQRin79T4RT0aGJzcyY8Dy8p1QurOjXotb299a9zcHnF7AXLSWYrpUBVbH4vnAHmftMBdE69TwXKBJOASl7du0jZ6YUlXYZ5RKLOYcHIt93TM1EBnheDTL82E9ufiwRQ0IsN1nHgfGJfLWNcgPHWy3sWkLwVEvFvJfKHEhVJ5BaG3vNVvESso1D8PbBZco98Cq_8gJCLYQld-VkGjFQ1cISG5NcToPjLjSg7mDLrCTQgaTZw7pImR7hhDCh7NNe6isIT_dG6VHM2Gt9tMJvl73lbrGPAA8c0L-QdS019E_6MQPP_zwV6jBJj829PGfdabbeQZJSd0gjgPDIgfvMuuXCAWbInDN2Z14Sr8VRwDvLK19ashwVj2-t6DWFWa=w800-h453-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gnoxcXTZi1ysVIIM4thmKuH_1IRWYpkFLkHcFaJ8joCjh9vZhGcxw1NbU5FBZUf4tBNIJv8Yk4giH3Gx2BJkSS4hgCd1cLRA5P9pELE_lVM2Mpqk5xc87g5FXwnZs-h-mdgZDjq1MZOiIdrzt9I0U1HFduiOpmECzUTM2qYmumA4QjISGTpKM-eqEVxjrNs365n1rkSeUHQBMeUHL_wxHsEzq_ikgHfMT6JYH0HdssOHS-PEnu0FN7-uKG1Kl9c0vkw-H0lqiDrsS7toJIjXacm-gMseJPNFzKQ_xv5Rrw5sNeatNIl-SpzS_d29uVIiBTuAMilaVLQPNh1bot3yOpIfSbwiKLQP5VDXjSJRsojfJ549AVTljine0GWemgo0DkGINVjkXlFGm7Xl33I6ifo0e_lvsGyyEiJioNpe2OMhG7_3SxsbceQcao5A-DBf9dMHs7erOEVk12iO3HuYeloA4Bltta-mVUwfNVYFoN-sERitiJyxw6HQuNciqixAJeaMP03uOXI5u2Mb13Fpto6_NHytOiumoR3zkukrW1T9NYwHVAPxddAUcre9fbTqI2tl06hWnnSpEMnwN1HmpL8zhVUsEWBIE3f6imMLkMpW7jyQ1yhRxYca0To5mdMC-8xPzM9W5M0a18-kApDHaBQIY4LmCtwI=w800-h453-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/O1K3kpccBjp24W3Cu6e8y5Z_HrnAv8hZHM8T13ZQaUWlocnSR7esfUvMnl5BGLen5g3Q3iNtZqMUhVNaBizttJbWRLVHv0bzK5MR1mboXeF68AeKGn19-_7daWQjzb6a_lYwroLeAphkEV9QV6T10slGv-EjvGcdIlRvjLvDs-wAalI2_DyxI2eoScNuCUrnMvCC_Zi20WSCkOAcGey6wtQJiDQcCfBKsAGeZxfC8YijAcGkEvm_Z8ppf1H7LZFcM9ea0hcuwZCP7xkY3W1ugyEFJYR-_sv0BAfVhFRMMBgSjpas3Uxb5FAWVF42FJWkXIOIapYrqFdOuABQtUfh95INTNgMtVKQJQ6kiNFUMrHI3GXybVBz0CRAza0dIddlr_6aNOt0kyQVIUz3_2D0X0OTv-qn941xetI8LDXmdWxG13vBjV4GNQ7FTBPBQVw-N7C-8AOF89lNmOeWgAxamsyFP08LR0o0U5bj6LS86NENz_NXYb-LjrzKjDcDLgNHRqjxw_N7d0xL5MgmljvY10ElMRdUcGCmv7PdiqMWC4I0U490io4QD6IMvA-TajszPpK6pYbHN9Dum_uGCR7upzEdoTcIp9ULVgdSHHw110krQ4INAS8aBFxVye5kfACrt_RzY9vsPXOY04P3iYOzztjuGxHJ7M4I=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 21 February 2018, 12:43 AM
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Spk0QBDJb4GYYcFjbn_RNNk1wZ0LUPZE4Jr_khTlCKNNkCTtZW09URiwFJF4jbwvCRS7ELWMjpGVa3negYyYw1nRU9UbqK45pFHioeblP57bIvVVXpLCxHAM0ri4Vhbrl41-4IhlQmrPB-v4XJmf8XA56ylvm-ICz4ixvl9y-Ir6JuAohk9Ye95Nf5b6lq4Un3k29fe6m47Xey9hAZ-5to2j7eZrMpL8-oR03nOEUUT8qX7KRrHOBZxcrrDoErOlllFbsxugHYrDXtp8vtP5zZZx-sOZ4BJeJrdXBuiYPFQp8e2ktSCNRCh0EEG0xVCQ5d8HNbEh9_Zo6X-R37OI5NkgxomdKRvnpKnHWQiiM4YKZDTZKkAomwTAv_uLFKXAOoR3vSv1F1LENE8eVzUey01f-kIw7LgWJHJXMEmb6aHpV8Tl-dHLgJde0r3c1plnwOUVnOG9GkoMt-FJ3EqSu29PEwUtj4JbqzcnSUOHMy7KgV58hOZJ7MsZFtCW37w1X-XIyTWbOplWLmE7UTqmDANY2pog1rp7E0JS02gkZ_IJkryS60ZTuE03PH4_C0877f_MR7ptYRJlOFLn8c5EGPhgKvyLGwbVCR_sE5Th61JSooTOsg0MwQ5pSEwYiKMp0CV1uVJRFtza6DMnikD605b_KiGglJpM=w800-h453-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sBRRGxyv1F6LMKj_SIIQYC8D4UFFEHBeCqLCnT_9pRKsk0tOds6FaBmPqANqnFpApt-KJ52bEemtEvwDZXMxEWRmbV2Y6mZjBr3wCc8PmW1reqkQOXHjIQ_fwsE4POMFMIJFslaDYIV1jHdckWjwyYZ-oZ_-a4PSNZ7h2Z1V9TuW4iFzmbgzEgRmxUU64G2GZ4-y2nz7ghCB6trDDb6-suVGXcBbFFwVd-Q7nndpaTX9Gp-2xkjieNhfDekjT-XtwOVJh4elvja0ceuJke9Zfqg-Y9bmVyJ9hCnNVjPkFExP63wcXhshlkt15jPfBK5Q_pbyDrXHe4L4JaakvxchjDcunYtsIcCywn64_el-PZIyNejeypdJamoCP5j4bVjVGjWRLZIJcS8lNdrR3bhKovPcv_OmRMWVPnV1LSpvqbw1dLADwabmDJsCutezFowUi8Sg9aYPZEo5_XG9JwHTpsH006fKV1akubWrbGjJwXbMeTXzlISVz8MIgDgxaxW0DEspjCProktDYUMIZvlfn4ru3z5q6P2XIbTDp9y0rSGIIbVcbpr1xmeCant7orNK3S0PgkmkGW38mVMcYystQ1afkxv4KvCGR-H8FmBsx4ouWmL-x8eYIjcr7anA7VV5bjUMibInT5ZllQ1yC_L5anL3m8937kon=w800-h453-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NSsN8wveFYajr8o738YuFArXHoi8Mq2_UXfqbCVQ9oxEQjw5roLUz28ZoIV6Kw1KROqt3TQjQkNP94t4M1xEU4Msl_wzcJJT4VhIrwy_FV9Tm2PmuHDypU46WmkycHXn-yy3v3ZjTva1R-PQ-PJtOaHnVfZd_74T-S2ISYikiD-k6HhZ3zsMc1IA1F6jMNPDGeR2HYvn6jwFU6j1dw7qvEHpgULAxRNiiivYKyyApplo9OQ0hiSaiiqbqz1cMpQCXlGWxCdgaSaj_uR2H_1UeCEs5K2MMXv8JIDf9pMswjSa51bcvPQWam0UqQyAeNC0C-JD_kAnPaNEa2c02Jkx0QKgtY2US5JfeXfyJseJacb4Lpkw0HPvOnCJZW_Wp3IfTWxSBRKLTU7CYXfrrkBx3zfUjZ67WJfYodEKttsNDAJR0Jr2o2jQHy1v2h3BcvBD497WvYrXRZCylJqa9He5WbJjd8kTI41LKfJZK732x_rbrD54s-ZQ3TvHIgF072pg7g4UMCpjq6JvzCWf7KJot2eu5cdgLrXyV9Itr0x9IvgU-qlZxw7dXYl9GDvRJnGSNIhGjXbu_IyhbiUnRwcsLLxuOdfjsI2MnKW4YqG-1loKgnT32mHGUTZd_fSMS7goyLRSFPubAyBI7cIFioJq0xgKDVWmciTh=w800-h453-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/QQi3asutUvtwsOAGdzZT0nhGWzSHwrAdvP8KSCxAeArdQEFuYIde82O16qKV3ZtLwu0Uts8dXbar6HIg9K46PQCntAKBl2_I4dJkrIq6_ufKQih1lWjypJzIGFD0zCVcufA-8y5ODjefjeCjianxgxS8dnvU5FPwNKfWIgqeoWoG-mC6N1PTgjbT2e8-xA-SI-h5ulAC3_wKGXb-x3HZ4FC2TlvYXEETFAuHyC8jYBda0G7lkKvJRmEWxM6uC2XZF92X_SLS_WWkGATFteuUZoMtmZkoVm20qfH36ZzQqUYtfDHImNeNL5Wje6rdiVVlTldB9NSxBL2zwSRwFV92vA7w_FClmc7AcO0wTpd3GFrJwP09GzQZtcgpIK3ndAAdz7aUYdcQqSAlpG96DIr4R8OFONVEKPjfxEpm3lVwxxcfrsCpBUqZWhCJbLh0bWCFYvsqRRNOz-huxZupO_-MbPcXyWF8KENMPcvWyofJqVqamlFGD66G6GEGGakj_-lM9dFFW83oTLhWwhJz6gxIWQ3rfs8xI_qnPb1FDiaNoDjxmNBGGJZTyPgPnWTjcYxx8voeuWybBBzonxFemY9vkd-XymdBsD2fJolqY54DbcjKYmRNng3GRs-Tet47-1YHSIEAEt5TKb2LFhNK97IP-9AUNg7x0XZX=w800-h453-no)

When I was out taking pictures today, I was joined by several jackrabbits running around and having a good time. There are also coyotes out here that come into the neighborhood to say hi. They look exactly like one of my dogs, and I am starting to wonder if she is part coyote. She doesn't mind them when they walk past us at night, and she makes howling and yipping noises with them. She also has strange mannerisms like sneaking up on other dogs or people, pushing them hard with her crutch tip nose, and then running away. She is also very feral and skittish like a coyote, and was found as a stray in the desert.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/QKU8Zg9y22JKqGz_uo4ZWjeCSROoW8h_13AEoKswnXN8vybyUNA4iT9Hq_MNSy1_JvwNKxRlTbRVIlbwGnh1-hfiUyrSYoFBIB_7P0NC07ysOJ_FVj89ysiiWGzYtJ6v7lSekWQxTp1Kh6MFmkA8Vsz-WKCnZGIOkes14gGD44xErBXJVPj5swXbKSZU9dngZU1T6Wrwknx6aNl_hGAgiCxSN4Hnjbm9Gq0zoW7u9rRkpvhEFsyLKAn3iBh1dBwoNbsLFXHPjuZ6f5eenuE4HMcSMRZlX9VAlPBoE3nHBrnkGFvEVWl6YgRJ0CpFjFBfHgmYxfFzRoegAMhgRp2UgxSv82FtxRkptD1B4eORojTcNs-nv1F87zLDGbcT_ezziGwcl1wWc2cH9XMluad-PRqOOE1b3mqdyUqHmD9lvu8aJOrE8kQVbvevYJZ4oPUhuaMyE1Ddd16rgN6Fn8PV-z0XhvANmQ4B5cG3M9acDac7_fs5GfmurrR5u6R6vARF_rrZ7KgicYu2S3FTwsQhwt8c6LEkyNua5QocEyeF-Zd13cW_nSF-btNAp1jUIyfjeclYQSty9EeGaNngmcjhwNmGqXHfz2wQVqzUnYg=w800-h600-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: ptashek on 21 February 2018, 03:01 PM
Quote
I painted five wheel covers so I have a spare. Painting them was a first for me, but they came out acceptably.

I think you should give your self more credit - that's a nice looking paint job :)
Good practice run for re-spraying your car, or would you not risk going this far?
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 21 February 2018, 06:39 PM
I think you should give your self more credit - that's a nice looking paint job :)
Good practice run for re-spraying your car, or would you not risk going this far?

Thanks. Before I paint my car, I have to remove all the dents and dings. So, I have to learn bodywork and take the time to get it totally straight. When it comes to painting, I might as well have it done professionally, because otherwise I'd have to rent equipment, a place to do the painting, possibly mess it up... It's probably wiser to have someone who knows what they are doing spray the paint. But, I'd strip down the car and have it down to bare metal if need be if that will save substantial cost. I'd try to buy high-quality paint for the job and would color sand it after it was sprayed to remove any orange peel.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 20 March 2018, 07:52 AM
I am likely going to be leaving the Mercedes scene. My financial situation is dire due to a sleeping disorder which makes it difficult to work, and I have a lot of time-consuming self-improvement I want to do, anyway. It's getting way too difficult to maintain and restore a W116 and all these rubber, vinyl, and plastic parts just don't last in the Arizona heat. My 300SD is in extremely good mechanical condition, so now is a good time to sell before something breaks that I can't afford to fix.

My 1967 Universal fintail station wagon was going to be restored into a daily driver, but it's a huge welding project and completely unrealistic. I bought it several years ago and had hopes that by now that I'd have a decent income and able to restore it, but I was delusional. It's also getting increasingly difficult to get any parts for these old cars and there are just so many expensive rubber and vinyl parts to replace.

I also have thousands of dollars in debt that I can't pay off any other way. If I can sell these vehicles and get out of debt, it would be a huge relief. My roommate has cars I can use if I need to drive somewhere. If I do purchase another vehicle, it will be something simple and utilitarian like a Willys Jeep station wagon powered by some kind of diesel powerplant.

I will likely have both of my vehicles listed on eBay in the near future. They are great cars for someone with a decent income, but that's not me. I have to be realistic and make some changes in my life.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: rumb on 20 March 2018, 08:44 AM
what model is your Universal?

Sorry to see you go, I have enjoyed reading your journey from Seattle to AZ. quite amusing.

good luck in the future.  PM me some more info on your Universal.

Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: JasonP on 20 March 2018, 09:11 AM
Squiggle, I think I speak for many of us when I say we could not have done it without you. Your generosity and knowledge and awesome write-ups have given us so much help. I purchased my first Mercedes when I was broke and unemployed and carless, against all "good" advice from others: they are old, they are too expensive to fix, etc. But that $1k car got me to work for five years, and I live in the country. If it were not for this W116 forum and people like you, I never would have been able to do it.

Do you still have the car bug, or are you just done? My 300SD is still sitting in my yard, with all my tools and parts and books and manuals in the house. I got a VW Passat a few years ago and have not even so much as performed an oil change since. It's just nice to have someone else do it now. I got mine through a car rental agency - they sell their cars off, they have something similar to a Certified Pre-Owned program. It has not given me any troubles whatsoever. I have a sentimental feel for the Mercedes, but I think the car is wiser than me and is saying "Move on dude, I'm done. Look at me. Really? I served my purpose, now go and find yours." My car thinks she's smart or something.






Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 20 March 2018, 09:25 AM
Rumb, I sent you a PM.

JasonP, thanks for the kind words. I'm not really that much of a car person, but I'm incredibly unhappy with the cars that are made these days and just don't understand why new cars can't be as good-looking and simple as the old ones. But, by owning a vintage car as a daily driver, I've been forced to teach myself to repair it and spend a lot of time immersed in the car culture to facilitate keeping it on the road.

Because I have to do all my own repairs, others often have me work on their cars for them. It gets overwhelming at times and I would love it if I never had to work on a car again. I really want to be an artist and musician, but find myself spending all my time repairing either my, or others' cars. 

Right now I think the wisest thing for me to do is get as much as I can for the cars I have and pay off my debts. Start fresh. When I get another car, it will be something old like the Willys wagon I mentioned, something that's only bare essentials and doesn't have so many parts that it makes it hard to maintain and restore (or get price-gouged by things like window and door seals).
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: ptashek on 20 March 2018, 02:29 PM
I second what JasonP said. Can't really add much to that.

If it weren't for the cost of shipping to Europe, I'd be first in line to buy your 300SD.
To me that car is a legend and should stay within the org.

I wish you all the best.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: avantbenz on 30 April 2018, 05:11 PM
Damn, SquiggleDog - that's a shame to hear. You're such a big part of the community.

What instrument(s) do you play?
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 30 April 2018, 07:33 PM
Avantbenz, I play guitar, bass guitar, keyboard, violin, and mandolin. Or, at least I used to, but haven't really played in years and it's really depressing because now I feel like I can't even read the notes on the page, let alone remember them on the instruments.

I ordered some compressor fittings as the ones I had ordered years ago didn't seem to be angled correctly. I ordered a #8 45 degree and a #10 180 degree, both without service ports because there isn't enough room at the back of the compressor for that to be a suitable location. I ordered a couple service ports that I will put inline with the hoses. I also ordered several feet of #8 and #10 barrier hose I so I can make my own hoses and will then have them crimped at a shop.

I started trying to remove the center console. It's a difficult task, anyway, but it seemed really stuck even though I thought I had all of the screws removed. I also removed the front seatbelt guides but it was still not budging. The plastic braces of the console were already broken and the parts were never able to be attached to it securely, and it started to rip. Finally, in frustration, I tore the console to shreds. It turns out there were two screws still holding in the console at the rear. Oh, well. I felt really upset about destroying the center console as it's not like you can just buy spare interior parts for these cars. Good luck finding a used brown center console (and brown dashes in good condition are completely impossible to find).
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_kHQ_6zBESmgJaGCveI3VFFWGQcTSOVAJsuHoLI7RbDWTqvji_hA-a7pCF6V5UMjCBIbZgrRLwx0HIn3YsvN29MckCdsccXTtBu9UyR5bZFl0Lp-yMB9eysJIo2vPwybJdQoFFqHKQXJUgnoT9JIraA5imss_TyZT0vidRRWohLQlaE8wWlUTzCcNxwqHkUvoGm2E-eh7pAj7s1KDp9rdC7vD_6JuVldSqp54IKHG8oJ2OCavr54u9fmkLY-eD8W45Z0jHRMWfFUebJuCL-G8tTOGqc7y4BEXqD-b_w3pJGKfKSUwS9mnjRpIrxz8uPAX7IVcas-EgSCGFYH9tt9s3xhAUC44AKLXY2uDLvDkO-MYyNSA6Du1hOcGj4_uYz_KQ1FXhnn9nDPqBh3N6jEg5OJghSUUkG46w3P1eRTf6L3SaXz8aAzw5n01CFpoITgDXYweUVk_qRG1HcO5vnlFxA1FNTU63jkF7L8m5XO9jLfpJoxw95Tz1ymVjUy8pnwGFiY7IEeK4-LcEQu8jokHZ_M8ngQfc4W10qudVUJHVEscM-tXqb2kqbcfghY6Yvgi1R6U_QyEnXk2vIDW8XDv6SXVWu7gLBdDh21WCddvFLr0wVumfpdR2Y8ouPx9wMaBq0yVBLq0CvRH5g_D67Egm02zaO6J-BZ=w800-h453-no)

I do have a spare brown console that I removed from a car I parted out. The plastic braces are in good condition, but the vinyl is cracked all over. It will have to do. I ended up destroying the corner of the dashboard when I was pulling it out. I really despise W116 interiors. I also gave the glovebox door a few punches because it kept popping open when I was trying to loosen the zip ties for the wires that were attached along the bottom of the dashboard.

I look at the automatic climate control and can't believe anyone would make something so complicated.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/F1K1srfsAjRG5FdrZVBWayTDqZa6uTeiB8V2htAfaTJ_1DjBLWnYXV48pw-ad25iCu5_6d7JSW-pAYSi7ZEY99_GBNPRaTRM2yV0LFBwSacx0ehry6G8Mh2gqPnK9zB_oyYdWdlczAqvOnPico45dnhiOB4Be0ltw14xWYBBCj3xYvB0_sC_6VLgBrWRMlYgX_O_FQqlcSAcql4h0CMwNJ7Xh5FT6eHic6xt2sNDTNplWzWyEURcraWi4V8OsHh5AMo8s7ytUGA2axfLbVxIMAFM4APsQvjcEHpxht8EADyBh5SfZj3YNeDAGvIYqJhocALYC0De8CAoQXSzbI1OxYAG0P-1ulc8na3oc314bvD0qRk3_G5p6aRxqlJvO5vwjj0Tr-yC7xLMBGoG2Re4832rIFZ1U84N5ILlZcY0dYY3sirlIdDezYE8VDA_0myiZjH1PPSWSH_i7skldlQW-V38sB9_nvomVQ3p5Vzv7SesBNYztQAsjc9H52hgmLCBvjWVJC9AYGg5bDvfNlZJA_6W1px_nkq45hkd36gYbntRweS_mrejim2H4QgJm79LoAZX3r1S2C_zTmruCVWwPLvElluC0BmAhRrAmn4Du6dqu3Qa45HBBdRTPmIN2YtLVO5hvcxog4oiZ8_rhE4KW4Uv82xKuJAj=w800-h453-no)

I removed the heater box. I'm going to do what I can to simplify the system. I pulled out the manual system I have and it turns out the heater box is cracked and broken. Rabbits chewed up much of the wire harness and cables. Even the manual system seems overly complicated with vacuum controls all over. I might end up ditching the Mercedes climate control entirely and make something using universal controls and wiring.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hGT3Z8snVUdGC9lfTIPUkUln4Wea0MWt_jpQNYH18iHxDON2WhpM2dgR5rwQnUDiPRLwpd4AX3f3H1KDTKqlFDA6QovxJuLW4zcYbfY_SDnrY39ucRAlDPT3WfX8CseJl0RkM0Y6ymTyAo_ukJYxik6z3gSSzr_0ajwWr6yMkv9YW-UItv3SdX2G5NK2grX1szaIXEw-uobsnQvKk0-dBqH__10yKJQB4gulwUTFwVq-8y-qc2NEkuGnWR6qlXEXuecVfnjvL7R3oHQv63a5A1cIQbkfkdrvXGpWd9vE6K7tC2i0v7EB_dlTCw1XbOTYiqLY0vC9K2r8z2okV7oTCoEd0ShEpaRVzi2RPHxIB9wb8rMed2neHzwmQusYe6Y98zoHWEigPhUMLf1CDgVd5_7JLcTDqwkt9GRWg6jCcI6mtUmKGo68iQtg4N-Lp0lMuz63i0VsNUBZKLaClwGgqNJLM3rFeqcwgqIeewJJt4sQzJj31uRXJ7LkviefkI4X2UTlsB3MXW9IlKaV-1UBMlb39KMyygqJCh5uP6tWwPCovjtCi8PduuVQkXsfGISXB679UhLMaGnU-HF_udknu7JO6xlDei-4652RZyuZ7vX_Ocu3IWGoKO0-8Y8JfOQpssF5dPpd_jnORNAN0pW_nQ2dQvDRacIF=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 01 May 2018, 08:40 PM
I was hoping that I could simply use some of the wires on the original harness, or could at least tap into them. But, the wire harnesses between manual and automatic climate control are vastly different. The manual system is overall wired directly to the fuse box, while the automatic system uses many smaller gauge wires that go between several different locations. So, I decided the only way to do it probably is to replace one wire at a time.

I spent hours carefully cutting off the wrapping on the wire harness so that each individual wire is accessible. I then started removing the wires that aren't needed. I removed the power window and power sunroof wires since I converted them to manually operated ones for increased reliability. The less wiring I have in the car, the better.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2HcyfIrvR_b_ws36eu8KcvGc2NNbXD-n-k1YfloKzMDax208lCN75iNvC2Mcx3bAF3lLg2k8QhhjtPiTBUZ4WR48qhJuQWXKXAALN1xQ42fiVanIy7D9eManDoZReLCkUFm7b8YpLe3wa1-YhvBtfSIMSrtOzH4iRPPNFdCPxOx16wFm6eD9VfYc0DB5iEs3VXUWR41jg1NxcPLRxk9N0RNx1VnAYXM5i5ecXbE2muAgeVQZo_8dDf8XcIh8jWvIaABQ6zNHgqmwCyDXyrUFFVt-B7c_iXNl_j_O3GuuRc6_u2RpYrFLR2G2Rahqqbjv5Rz7DYGdBf-bRPU7z8FMq70vB0mF2ZVB5vwSwe-fXGl283tWlgWsdMXTHKzerbErEgbWMgTeX-TVhJsD2MBQWTqNf9NeGmlq0KP9ByHrT_q1E35Wpg58LoIbyZiRKmSjTE14M54WKldMBhzsDoHoaFbi7UFpa5s9zIRjJypY2W121N4PydjvFoYIH6ZKox1P8qlpJ6LjrydwYPwsyTt1g3AGlkE3kACrO6N4lozdd2_wQM30a4g6-kB3Nm_CCQnE5pb-YtI_F7pdlxUvZuX_v9DZqLQmLoBPvFwJxPT-nOY0GmRYjrbKJ625wiyapFEXx3X2oqfVATuZZRdrMJ6w1Md2j9ngfvtA=w800-h453-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kxokuyxV2oIOF07F9HaVsGCEIykqirZhhD3x6tpTrkw-iijcCFLo7ZmpOQCqdiBonyAxqKUxFVpttpolfgl7wfSX_myBueaGSg_36andMZceBAhdhVsGb8oinLErRNJtsrycDrxychDnMt-_Uaqfa94m8fSNJbyNJFcQ3G5cKgvfCoaZ1gODEh1FzaZ4ejukltHwFR_A71Xs-5V-ahcsU4DSd9EIQExt2AsMGemMYBEHTf8VHuaBN4-F-ImBd351QSrN33UaivpBkTeZdotNKzS2RjPbVEvlRjseKoWIoU2nhSdStHzlSC8frtYeKiaIrGGf6HSkIqZv1_2_JH8e75EO9QfKa7WFwzWBmpv2EJl9Ucyz2hgd713-cZ-9_zjZIj1eO6XODCHgHQz_FgMi5sIfXfQPzWPRqioJlzle-DnE_ZYhDcQ2L0P5XiRaw_qhR7pTpAm_eEVX7-ulzC73dpQMAaGaEGx42rIiMnf4KnvLCnSIWmz8yrDOfu8HIgzOZoPCP4mK0Xs_qEXGYANTHjWO1lRm6b8TkH39RLrbIv-A_mLWjnBJ0QOfcRLINXkEty4xKCtfa8-Q2r0VPodRtsdmaGrMXlsoN8DD1mSmhG391A_kJ973YAOMuSIykH24wsb5V0E7162Vd6MDkKrgCFktqMJznzwt=w800-h453-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XoOtNW_5n4n35R40rhz5D9JtZBvnzS9lFCn3KnUVv7VZw3_sPxx9cq0uUHdNFY8wGw0p1SAsCFU0IjzwDdsTz6Em7jyW1TWAahfsTD5au10n_CsuMFEMmon-FqA3L6-vSxbPvG_O3LTqf_yO1U9jWj0BX_RBh0SCbHu6oK4nC7eQH4WBLC_ZFtG1Ci8A1w3Alb8IWVj_br8z0dGZgH_hZ5G_pN5PSwlW5jK7Yobo1B0q_hkSxZyjN7yknuEAfhFZdJWQ7To4z2RWHlbPPNjjiYbRi-BNK2NDtKx3hJPBCmRnpbUBzs8y3VDpVqD1-vdF_VbxrrNuKYmXLB6fRyfCGj74Wi9_WTf6uiOpQl2sj5ru2WkHDAaUS88NimAx6nDGotioc8C4Jfg1K7vUwoKw7XBKWLZXlC4e1enskvQovOzVyG8spnCoTAsKfCSGAmYO1qgQFFp5ZfuDqT3JRhMy59B-sQEd1sGYVfqIhZ0pr3yPw2I-Hiup87Srq25RoT9gMD4krPSAKDaL0FchR96pfGuVL2PuJ7tgkS0dMaOyIe_QtyHp8DEPYkDGbvQVAtwm32OFedVeLhtXV4Lx3XMYENcKyu2ioglTcDWa5Vb5Bz-86eh0Qnr1qP7rwRaJuc83QZQpnj9s5CurFwKFUHVs9g6VD56RVk2_=w800-h453-no)

After I have all necessary wires installed and accounted for, all the extra wiring will be removed so it's not complicating things. When that's done, I'll re-wrap the wires with new cloth tape. I'm trying to undo a lot of the over-engineering so the car is more reliable, practical, and simple to repair. There were so many zip ties and getting any access to where the wire harness goes through the firewall was SO difficult. It's fortunate that the two 8mm nuts at the bottom of the fuse box and wire harness support were already loose, because they were almost inaccessible. I had to use a very small ratchet for one, and a flatblade screwdriver with a socket on the end for the other.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 04 May 2018, 12:02 AM
I removed most of the automatic climate control parts. It was satisfying.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/FTYvn-Ag3Q10GuwTmzDv2rn1use2NEF_Qpm7j5L1wEZhz4Z_h0j2D1zFMqm4voTHsYzsIJlvmqIsRFF2jJx5pnfzA-1BD2JL1uVmV3kKNLnmSQA6xvS0W87r6AFsALBjk8wrkbUGL8tuNytnM1kVlftGuVHuY5vfWcXfLRCPGngBQmuyMVwYpD0zlK2yl4SAu7CvcbzJ5YKmo-ABeE14GmyFdM0h9weA3m1ayKHQF5C2eqYBRnrP95l84JeCB3OZsE9TqwGad-3HA8HdUzMhxjrPTeoAusZT9e4jHYq7G0iW7sGcfrbxK-4EAkhgo2HYrCH_Tct_u8oux09NWq6VabgcPAjcME-ZzIlMbGzapQMAunqkNRqHsmUATGo-pxf9K7FA_7Wmt0vvKkFiNhSfpO7yBzx8qD1UHxJhy-AIO1hHmyCD3hDynGxK8vzX7j5uoqCXehg5B_Ryr4QWPX0aqisv9gSfUIWEKiUx0igvdqX1xB17gXt6m_Gp8vrXUYVyZO3pbbZHGwiLvDgZnB-KtslbZQ4dWrWrRX6ZVwozuy4bfieGNzJjzAph5lIU5JlglBwe7D7PIlQX8ScY7ED_9vgNvwmtVaW45XifjxNkf7b3kvLUTKZFddOSyWVrbctF4aKLpU4xtB4cLDsOIadP5f_1iajFSkEO=w800-h453-no)

I have most of the wires for the manual system installed as well.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/BQJ9c1cNyCos3VQJTFf_rGCEDzZ2SFY1hmE1UorOTJb4dGo72VcXiHKP_VLvt1bAHw84ECCTyvKwIUHKfPrs4oTAWI3Tvw-TNHDk97_XPotZW3R_BwI5vxf45MgG6Kn746f5hvydgZPsnfG6uNbH2RUHPDyYqVVFcUBnH_gTXZEbBqGxJANAInu26GkVx2WfuZdF9IPGkvs99qFXE-oEk0a5uLdSJ0cMv3_L5B_UEKqJ90DXFr5XSZxc3SmDBDAT4EQU0uKJ5j4k8M61yr0SvTiCf9SRaS_ozQUU9TrGzazp_qBSDF5AlsrsIg38eM5VmOfNBrOV5e2_k9Bw6t-MvIdLGQHs-5IHVSqOzw2GyGyjZIZHGu0PTkzwiBkaBY_jHpKNPrTdk67UpL7jgeC1MH3l3z47d7wyN99SKCNxlpXKdTQeCVjEmq3GZLROehGFRGvM2c-tgLZPPrQ03Gu_lK_vKpIjqhYJzCBoPH291y8_t1ymTxJ7-99rIwV-qnMVbiHWfmJnubkh_U2Dq4osUFwjRE0m6nF9VTgrNyQ8wrbtgxnGTYcwC5_ywVzqaoyEpSjsX_42Mi_dAd0z3VMyPnABnV4QlnF78aXDVB3ugDxh5ypN0F3oco3jAE_zcWU0XiJyAwwhTzKlupDUtmdoAFZPjOUehk0O=w800-h453-no)

Even though the wire harnesses are very different between automatic and manual, there are a few wires that are routed the same and are even the same colors, however, the manual system calls for wire gauges about twice the size that the automatic system uses (the manual system uses a few heavy gauge wires that are wired directly while the automatic system uses many light gauge wires that jump all over the place). I replaced the light gauge wires with the heavier ones so I don't burn down my car. In areas like around the conditioning relay where space was tight, I was able to tie the new wires to the old ones after I cut an end off and was able to pull them through the harness tubing. In the picture below, the ws/sw colored automatic climate control wire is a 1,5mm². The one used in the manual climate control is a ws/sw 2,5mm²; nearly twice as thick.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iJwTAu2CHylIs4KbYuWO4hsoNV_UAjxekafJdc39X4tZDURtvW0ONOv-Y6HIjX7GYzKwSdEw25FH-yOWHr55Y5F4QQ4TdnR6x--8CkI7DFUwPzCPJ_UEZFqIQCno7j9eacXAKMZf0lLntBGE1mp0wFemkg7sAnT2dVk5kH32Y4PJqbrMtfle3IkCuAlK5WqRtD6Jfl0MhMgAZqO5qJytup_21gdcznoTH28WAq00e6qaAhMAZLd4wfmfszCnYFsv3mlVODpzgGrIIPoFgogWHPAzjr2OwE3VdA5W_-Qlc_YOR1lfQhVSIBmso8MkmjuEG2qe2CKZoWlwpWuZguz4yGGTz08rOb-C4r747wFpnIAnUUHXgPtaF_aVLm9ilePFU4DGquBHHf4apjbeelAxAtwrPr-fOGHEG2alYLcu0a1SWYwsAstISW5LgFqSRkFP1kMklMskaFla6A5U_riPqNQs0mdXDexFrR-HXyhSOGzWWSz6wDtdoTZH4LMniOuYBuAH0l-m-yWARud-NRO7ONwZ6DgTei1OAZaxUcATwt8c4qtDdbziTwHRVxWQvtexgAWL36cc6yM5dHHVYSI4-PZxApTCwcywvT0Rne3RHprNc74xmTH21CmyJ-DToW_fjO2mqoKENIzyiPAB2qbPlTC4Ob51qAfg=w800-h453-no)

To make things more challenging, the wiring diagrams in the factory service manual are not entirely correct. For example, the 1979/80 116.120 300SD USA diagram shows a vt color 4mm² wire going from the alternator junction block to the #1 terminal on the air conditioning relay. However, in both my car and a spare 1979 300SD wire harness I have, the 4mm² vt wire goes from the alternator junction block to the neutral safety switch. No wire actually connects to the #1 terminal of the air conditioning relay. However, on the wire harness I have from a 1974? 450SE that had manual climate control, it had a 2,5mm² vt wire going from the alternator junction block to the #1 position of the air conditioning relay, and then a smaller wire connecting from it to an ignition relay (which the diesels don't have). I am guessing the large purple wire was not necessary on the diesel cars and must have been done away with after the diagram was written.

This is really a lot of work and very technical. It would be very easy to get something wrong. I do not recommend this to the average person. I don't think many people in the world would be motivated enough to see it through, anyway. If I were to do the work for someone, I think I'd have to charge thousands of dollars to be worth the labor. These complicated climate control systems are certainly a curse for these cars and one of the main reasons they get junked.

One problem I have is that the wire harness from the manual climate control car was cut at where the wires from the blower switch connect to the blower motor resistor plug. I'm hoping they are long enough that I can solder on new ends, but I might have to splice wires on the ends so they'll reach (which I'm not happy about as I wanted to do this without any splicing, and all wiring being 100% correct including the colors).
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 06 May 2018, 05:22 PM
I've been wracking my brain over all the changes I'm having to make in the wire harness, but I'm pretty close to being done making those changes. Sadly, I'm going to have to splice several wires because ALL of the wires in the donor harness going from the blower motor dial switch to the blower motor were cut at the firewall (I still don't understand why I did this years ago when I was extracting the harness from the donor car). Fortunately, the wires at the blower motor resistor plug on my car are the same colors and size and are just long enough to reach them (in the ACCII system, these wires connect from the blower motor resistor plug to the servo, so they are very short).

It won't really matter because they will work fine and not be seen since they will be wrapped with new cloth tape, but I'm the type of person that likes to do things 100% perfectly and it would have only taken a couple extra minutes to pull the wires through the firewall instead of cutting them while saving me time and effort when installing them in my car. I must have thought they wouldn't be needed when I pulled the harness from the donor car six years ago (yet when I have sold manual climate control systems to people, I managed to keep this part of the harness intact).

Speaking of this, a grey 1979 W116 300SD with a red interior was on eBay a few months ago. I sold the previous owner the manual climate control and red interior which he actually seems to have been successful in installing, and it appears he left the car's wire harness intact, unplugged unused wire connectors, and added the ones he needed--while my approach is remove the wrapping, remove unneeded wiring, add needed wiring, and then wrap it all back up. He also painted the car himself and installed Euro bumpers. Whoever bought that car got a real gem.

I installed a 16" auxiliary fan from a second generation W126 and read that I need to upgrade the wire harness to handle the higher amperage of the fan, but the W126 uses the exact same wire size (2,5mm²) and colors (black and brown) as the W116, so it's not necessary to rewire the fan. However, I want to wire the auxiliary fan so it comes on with the compressor instead of the pressure switch, for improved air conditioning performance. ROLLGUY sells a plug-and-play wire harness with relay that will accomplish this--and after thinking about it, I think I understand exactly how it works (power from the wire going to the compressor attaches to a connector in the harness and travels to the relay in the harness, which lets power flow from where it's connected at the glow plug relay, through a 20 amp inline fuse, down to where it plugs into the compressor, powering the compressor, while power also flows from the harness and connects to the auxiliary fan, where it powers it [and the auxiliary fan plug on the body is not used] while the ground wires at the auxiliary fan and compressor wiring connect to the harness and then travel back to the relay location where it grounds to the body with a screw.).

However, I also want the auxiliary fan to come on with the coolant temperature switch on the engine so it will lower coolant temperatures if the engine runs too hot. I'm trying to figure out that one so I don't lose this function by getting the auxiliary fan to run with the compressor. If I run the wire from the coolant temperature switch to the auxiliary fan, it will cause the compressor to kick on (which I don't want) unless I run that wire to the relay in such a way that it will only activate the auxiliary fan...

I've been reading through air conditioning threads (many of which have diminished effectiveness due to Photobucket images not showing up) and was considering replacing the expansion valve (TXV) with an orifice tube (OT) and adding an accumulator (to keep liquid refrigerant from reaching the compressor). However, by the time I was done reading the threads, I think that I'd be best off retaining the expansion valve because they seem to be safer and more effective. Adding an accumulator may be beneficial as it would help protect the compressor from liquid refrigerant reaching it, and it may increase performance (some W126s have accumulators).  However, it would be another part for which I would need to find space, it would frustrate the hose routing I have planned, and it may not be needed in an expansion valve system. Right now adding an accumulator is a "maybe" but I'd rather not add one if it's not going to be of any real benefit.

I think that I will use refrigerant R-12. Even though more R-12 has to be used than R-134a when charging a system, R-12 seems to perform better. R-12 seems to still be available for purchase, one way or another. I live in Arizona and imagine it's probably easier to get it here due to the hot climate and close proximity to Mexico where R-12 is still being produced. I had considered hydrocarbon refrigerants like Duracool and Freeze-12, as I had read that they were both superior to R-12 and they are easy to purchase. However, I think that this is pure marketing and while they may work as well as R-12 for a while, it seems they have a short longevity due to different particle sizes. They are also flammable. I was under the impression that R-12 was also flammable, but apparently it's not. This video hits close to home; it's in Phoenix and toward the end a W116 that was using a hydrocarbon refrigerant blew up: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ANtAbkKrOuI&feature=related (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ANtAbkKrOuI&feature=related) .

R-12 seems to be the best option and is even better for the environment than R-134a. I had considered using R-134a since I wanted to "get with the times" and use a "more environmentally-friendly refrigerant" and would be servicing the ENTIRE system anyway with parts compatible with and suited for use with R-134a. With a parallel-flow condenser, larger auxiliary fan, and Sanden compressor, I'd probably have as good or better than stock air conditioning running R-134a. However, I'd have even better performance using R-12, so why not go with that? I want the best possible air conditioning in my car since I live in an extremely hot climate (120F summers and 100F+ most of the year) and have the opportunity and ability to alter anything necessary to increase the performance.

Since access at the compressor is limited, I am going to add inline service ports to the high and low-pressure hoses. The ones I ordered have R-134a fittings on them. This may be a problem when it comes time to charging with R-12. I imagine there is a way around this, but I looked for inline service ports with R-12 fittings, and it seems no one sells them? I did see some inline ports that are for switches, and it almost looks like maybe those could be used for R-12 fittings. Hmmm...

I would, however, like to see if there is a compressor oil which is compatible with all refrigerant types in case laws and availability change years later and I'm forced to use R-134a or something else, and won't have to flush the system of the old oil to change refrigerant types.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 07 May 2018, 12:58 PM
I spent several hours yesterday pondering over how to power on the auxiliary fan whenever the compressor is running, as well as when the coolant reaches 100C/212F, and I think I've figured out a way to make it work using the original auxiliary fan relay, which is:

In early manual W116 climate control systems, the compressor clutch is powered on directly by a blue and green 2,5mm² wire coming from the temperature dial switch (no switches of any kind were used between the temperature dial switch and compressor; pressure switches were not yet in use). A blue 1mm² wire is connected to this wire at the temperature dial switch and connected to the RPM stabilization relay which would raise the idle in gasoline-powered models so that whenever the compressor clutch was engaged, the engine's idle speed would be raised to counteract the extra load.

To power the auxiliary fan whenever the compressor clutch is powered:

1. The existing red 2,5mm² wire at fuse #2 (which has only one wire, as its sole purpose on a W116 is to power the auxiliary fan) connects to terminal 30 of the auxiliary fan relay, providing it with a power source.

2. The extra blue 1mm² wire coming from the temperature dial switch of the manual climate control which would have gone to the RPM stabilization relay on a gasoline-powered model will now connect to terminal 86 of the auxiliary fan relay, which will switch on the relay whenever the temperature dial switch is turned on AND the ETR switch does not disable it.

3. A brown 0,75mm² ground wire at terminal 85 of the auxiliary fan relay will complete the circuit which will make switching on of this relay possible by a signal from the blue 1mm² wire coming from the temperature dial switch.

4. When the auxiliary fan relay is switched on by power from the temperature dial switch, it will allow power from fuse #2 to travel through the auxiliary fan relay and out of terminal 87 where it will travel through the existing black 2,5mm² wire toward the auxiliary fan.

5. The wires which went from the auxiliary fan relay to the refrigerant temperature switch on the receiver drier will be removed along with the temperature switch itself. The wires which went from the auxiliary fan relay to the coolant temperature switch on the thermostat housing will also be removed.

Doing the above should power on the auxiliary fan whenever the compressor clutch is engaged, however, I will be using the pressure switch on the drier, which will disengage the compressor clutch whenever refrigerant pressures are too high. However, the auxiliary fan's power wire will be connected before the pressure switch, therefore the auxiliary fan will remain running and reducing refrigerant pressures even when the pressure switch causes the compressor clutch to disengage.

To power the auxiliary fan whenever the engine's coolant temperature reaches 100C/212F:

1. An added-on 2,5mm² or 4mm² wire (possibly black in color) will be added to fuse terminal #2 (of which sole purpose was to provide power to the auxiliary fan through the auxiliary fan relay). This wire will then go to the coolant temperature switch on the thermostat housing which switches on when coolant temperatures reach 100C/212F and then switches back off once the coolant lowers down to 95C/203F.

However, the original coolant temperature switch (part number 006 545 14 24, red color, M4X1.5X1 threads, on at 100C/212F, off at 95C/203F) is a single-pin unit which grounds to the engine through the thermostat housing and is not suited for what I need.
(https://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/images/SuperStock/006-545-14-24-M322.jpg)

I found that there is a coolant temperature switch (part number 006 545 15 24, red color, M4X1.5X1 threads, on at 100C/212F, off at 95C/203F) which has two pins and grounds from the second pin after going through the wires which complete the circuit.
(https://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/images/SuperStock/006-545-15-24-MBZ.jpg)

2. Another 2,5mm² or 4mm² wire will go from the second pin of this 2-pin coolant temperature switch replacement and will run back through the firewall and will connect to the black 2,5mm² wire which powers the auxiliary fan (inside the firewall before it reaches the loom after the firewall so the part of the auxiliary fan wire harness in the engine compartment will be left untouched).

One thing I wonder about: Can the coolant temperature switch handle the full load of the auxiliary fan running through it? The original design is for it to switch on a relay, which then draws power from the fuse box to power the auxiliary fan, so there is very little current running through the coolant temperature switch and even small 0,75mm² wires are used. However, what I want to do is run the full load of the auxiliary fan through it (and of course using much larger wires). I just hope the switch can handle that much current.

3. If the coolant temperature reaches 100C/212F, the coolant temperature switch on the thermostat housing will switch on and allow power from fuse #2 to flow through it and toward the auxiliary fan, thus powering it. When coolant temperatures drop to 95C/203F, the coolant temperature switch will shut off and thereby shut off the auxiliary fan.

By doing the above, the auxiliary fan will always be powered by fuse #2, which is solely used for powering on of the auxiliary fan. A 16 amp fuse is stock, however, I have the freedom to install a larger fuse if necessary because of the higher amperage of the upgraded 16" second generation W126 auxiliary fan and since there is nothing else being powered by fuse #2.

Increasing the size of the wires in the auxiliary fan wire harness is not necessary because even the second generation W126 uses the same size 2,5mm² black and brown wires. However, because the added wires which will run between fuse #2, the coolant temperature switch, and the auxiliary fan power wire will be rather long as the coolant temperature switch is located on the opposite side of the engine compartment than the auxiliary fan wire harness, I may use larger 4mm² wires to and from the coolant temperature switch in order to keep down the wire resistance.

If the auxiliary fan is being powered by the coolant temperature switch, it cannot flow back and inadvertently power the compressor when the air conditioning is not on because the auxiliary fan relay which is switched on only by the power wire coming from the temperature dial switch will be switched off.

When the air conditioning is switched on and the auxiliary fan is running with it, if then the coolant temperature switch engages, though there will be two powered circuits colliding, because both of their power sources is from fuse #2, there should be no consequences except possible decreased wire resistance as the fan would be powered by two wires instead of one. If the coolant temperature switch shuts off, the auxiliary fan will stay running until the either the air conditioning is shut off or the ETR valve shuts it off. Or, if the air conditioning is switched off, the auxiliary fan will stay running until the coolant temperature switch shuts off. The power cannot backflow into anything and cause inadvertent powering on or damage.

I still think ROLLGUY's wire harness and relay to power the auxiliary fan whenever the compressor is engaged is brilliant, due to it being plug-and-play, easy to install, and easily removed if desired. As long as a person doesn't wish for the auxiliary fan to come on with increased coolant temperatures, that's the way to go. And so far I have not ever observed increased coolant temperatures in my car--even in stop-and-go long commutes in 120F Phoenix traffic--with the exception of when I was going up the steep grade at The Grapevine in California at 70 MPH while returning from Washington with my car fully loaded inside and out.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/exnyQv-XEFqGR54eVE3KOU1LG-gHgzp_A5aZ61v-rMRi1bPX2xKKxCwd8WnU_gVbdmfvv0w4LA4oxdel5kXBKiDgH0nlR1e2YC2tJNInp4vFPgTGgWwqmY8YI9w0m5JwbADHeJh9fe75Etjuji9_-uTovsEI00xMgrhtPucqQtebWZLaDhC-bkcUN3sVBa0AoOHnqbPb1g_y_i5yI_nZKHs3cvOScoc7mKGy-DXNVi2KFnheBBnKEnkGA5NXipjq4XDmiEfDVrjfTWLxLZ1VQb_BLw9CLwESbQibYWlEnhckJ3W_R4Ig5DZJks0RQj0t9h14xfV0iahIW01Pfdv0FyQ6_EOK_C0ihM6qAuSU34XS9uTl5MncHU2ZIrusFJ_MLDOPmnuvJ2qEUXiryFMMdyg6cF7icWVhjzYxo5F_xupqiQwpsLkm9nTkUJL1h4vxcUTUL4N-gDyoZvNj8v3_PjHchXi4E6zFp83l_UuOBm4xZpzjtbh9jhnJRVxY8i8yUT0qKuQvJPve7RSqKYGr67--RlR-uVTGVyp2z6TzJtiqX65zEHJDL0bjHANw1-fdI6k1IT1kHQLZESStb3zaNSNdJXjbLvjgQfxfduU=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_qOigkUodGHHah82GnKAYqQLXPZ7NDgHC2AFlaIqea0fuuLfIaQLE4NiNCr5zdiOASAox35sVbKHga83okAqbn_jbEscijq3B_nD28e-huFr153eZ_E4-bYEqUZaGTb60q-RucDXm5kiYBPy5uiZm03ipruEGNnhk8D_r8iy3jUZx9bCR7Yw2IZRwNEB-ku4ZdYbyrmx915xfqdK3larhzX2fMARqtEE8TEqXLpv1ZvS6Q0yIitUtZgqYVXl9IPvzRG6fNV4Og41h_IfQT58bTWyypKseOzEeNOVY9zGitxWaINm8RvUWRMOblaAmGDpEwp62Nn6WpVSeW39casdBe-KDjfE5fzWt9F9478n0_9mCN0q5NBL1HYHLSYbfgUW_dtxXz4frIi2v-_kPjARUePnwlDHkqEYueborZJBdH_m1-Z1gVvT5XMWNGwwLeCwNDswy7bpf4-WqMFhC_86X8zOjS3eSWS5-o9pXfLysqR0f6X9qyaxGdFL5eJ-LB7bElOD6799Xg4PrzhGRe3e9SVhmR01O1R5ddghF7Yt9DRS329b60ZZ6cXdxDs8CnIFTlaEnJzr_aquP-zLXGwrI-uiMH-DCrEJOpB7ERE=w800-h600-no)

So, most people probably don't need the function of the auxiliary fan coming on with increased coolant temperatures anyway, and what I'm planning to do requires drastic measures which is beyond the scope of many people--even most mechanics aren't going to spend hours/days figuring this stuff out. But, I'm already so deep into it with my manual climate control conversion, so I might as well do as much as I can.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: floyd111 on 07 May 2018, 05:16 PM
You know there's a company called U-Haul, not? ;D.
How do you not scratch and dent your car carrying stuff like this?

Just for laughs.. No need to understand any language here.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zPJ8eDv-1N8

(Yearly tradition where many of the immigrants in Holland pack their stuff for their once-a-year return to Turkey or Marocco, carrying insane loads of shit for selling and gifting in their home country)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 07 May 2018, 05:40 PM
U-Haul is too expensive. Using my car was by far the cheapest way as it gets good fuel economy and I don't have to pay for a rental and mileage (which is important because it was a 3,000 mile round trip). I'm just very careful the way I load things and put moving blankets under everything. My paint is really bad anyway, but if I ever get my car painted, I won't be strapping things to the body anymore.

Funny video. It seems they are using an appropriate vehicle.

Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Jed on 07 May 2018, 07:43 PM
I am speechless?
Did you seriously drive 3000 miles like that??!!
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 07 May 2018, 07:55 PM
I am speechless?
Did you seriously drive 3000 miles like that??!!

I drove 1,500 miles of it with the car empty (passenger and rear seat out, door panels removed), and 1,500 miles of it fully loaded like that. I added spring helpers so the rear springs wouldn't sag as much, but there were no problems with acceleration, handling, or braking. I was able to drive 70 MPH most of the way and even maintained that speed going up the steep grade in California known as "The Grapevine" without the coolant temperature getting very hot.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 13 May 2018, 12:33 AM
I've decided against doing any alterations to the auxiliary fan electrical circuit since I am using a larger and more powerful auxiliary fan than stock, and I've been advised by others that having the fan run whenever the compressor is running won't help anything because it won't allow the refrigerant system to build up enough pressure to work efficiently, and it will burn out my fan and kill my battery. So, I'll just let the temperature switch on the drier do its job.

Due to the limited space with the Sanden compressor configuration, it's been difficult figuring out what fittings I need to clear other parts and correctly route the hoses. I was advised to not use aluminum fittings as they break on diesel engines. Finding the particular ones I needed in aluminum was hard enough, but I found a place that sells them in steel https://www.acparts.com/ (https://www.acparts.com/). Other websites either didn't carry them or were out of stock. I placed an order and got a call a couple days later saying they were out of stock on most of my order, but they think they can have the parts next week. Here's hoping.

I've been spending a lot of time trying to find replacement firewall grommets. So many of them are no longer available! Some other rubber parts I wanted to buy are ridiculous. $35 for a rubber boot for the pressure switch, $67 each for firewall drain tubes (fortunately I found some used ones), $119 for a little heater hose... I think the golden age for affordably owning a W116 and having good parts availability is starting to pass.

The manual climate control case I was planning to use is cracked. Fortunately, I have another one, but it doesn't have air conditioning. I think I will use the heater-only case because it's in better condition, and will put the air conditioning parts into it. Unfortunately, the W116 heating and air conditioning service manual states that in the event of evaporator leaks or flap malfunction in cases made before January 1979, the entire case assembly must be replaced because it is not possible to take it apart without damaging the case. What?! I'm hoping it's just because they used a mastic sealer between the parts, which can be replaced with butyl cord.

Another unfortunate thing I noticed is that both manual climate control cases I have only have two drains instead of four. Manual cllimate control cases with two drains:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-iNdkU5DfpQqCPiG5lmbRoIooP_6ly6n0Whc83aKcRz-b57lQ2RFdIbqKH5O-N5XbOW_hdz_jmACuZYJ0zY-EIobZNF5awUUEEol2P6Cy29EFGEQbGuD4bAYXV8kVUF1Va42wGiXZRozzqh7efAmxb8XffCuaFppJJBi6_mAvQ1LCWIArNOw3B8w5kvz87lY9TjBRLhBEiphOOMIChyDhWcfUrD9aQNCf8G6P8UsvzIrMI8wSJN5YkFWVpsAfP5mwEQUV7NkE5BxfoW4HW73HjZ1NodrFRoiWRqc_FJgzveZy4oMlV1ldX0Jq61cJDxYi4KZ1nj1Z8piy3OpAAblUhRfvdY8Ib0t1qr5Ua-9gZB48VL25bvKlnl-opw1Ii2_-hb1JXTrVXjU0hkBGlF5LWTU23Co7xtV5GU0L1I9KmmKyehzrEjPUGBOs7TFJZ3mwPFHSSPhdkmwA3TtNCkpwdJwzr6qGTj3F2MEEoG-JeA1BXeiDwMNCW_v5dfjPDDLjXL8ImbJhhbbVCbPeRTPzGawGztqEBgrpS339-MTp6IpDytXdQZCEmCVGiYlAPeW_DlwJgR1-kwZo9CDlf8uDBbjtyNGNPB-em9SxPI=w800-h453-no)

The W116 heating and air conditioning service manual states that in September 1977, two additional drains were added for faster removal of condensate. The automatic climate control case with four drains:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0LfiZQlTeUK6IWfe_oaM32WvQAO2mmLMBnMt2YE7U-NyViNoJEl4eqwGe0d8iFYfsRtpmHUxradLApigVhPIAOVtVYanQ1koXoJdWf68sP6zXKUs0DLGfFqgAddv_-KN9VyHadwjZ592HdVlQgD76EHm6CNs0LIIfYz5m3_uAQY_CdBTN1H7LPu1Eg3IDSkCbB-bskttWYXYaLG6LxetRj3o0OBm8RKOVkmk8x3bnHvuNEB86XY7mrvKC0yMEGX5euzAm13CyrJA1-knvA3cBdnlpxu6Xx9_UI2EHfitzRdXufVAjFTw6IUdo4gYF_e_23YZdTEZlagCDgFsBybyZUUeGnB1KKSdZ1Sys_899Cy2_14H6eobuv-z4nQnqI3GBZDcB0Mh6kF-LljHfeVSGI1TYhEVhd28Y99DKMK1Clywr47jE5PKOWn12l93hCob3DnKniktmaS0hIYmEL62MSHL39HgqnLebupvYmN-rB4X1r-x9p-MEPQ86Y_OBilbTAZv58u_PnCg2UrIIazULTV7Pet_MZePk0vsRqftJfh8mc4peloOY8nQQohnj5nU7uk6vhk-AFez23eybnyfDypRKOAUfEWPe4mczxCvIqZLMgQM1j7MOkSlAgvWE8mEgc-t7QSOtza3x28cULJUgL2_trlJwbMa=w800-h453-no)

With the way the cases are designed, I can't just swap the section of the automatic climate control case with the extra drains without having the extra parts on top like vacuum pods and ETR switch. I'd probably rather just live with only having two drains than having all those extra automatic climate control parts on top. But, I really want the two extra drains because I'm going to be running the air conditioning constantly, year-round. I might try to add two extra drains to the bottom of the manual climate control case. The only way I can think to add them that won't eventually leak and cause water to drip on the floor is to drill holes (there are molding lines where they would go) and then insert a plastic tube on each side and use a plastic welding system to run a bead on both the inside and outside so the tubes are firmly attached and won't leak.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 13 May 2018, 10:14 PM
I took apart the automatic climate control heater case from my car. It came apart without too much effort--mostly removing clips and being careful to not break the fragile plastic. I wanted to see how feasible it would be to cut the second set of drains from it and graft them onto the manual heater case either plastic welding or bonding them using methyl ethyl ketone. I also wanted to see the condition of the heater core and evaporator so I could pick out the best parts from the three heater cases I have.

As I expected, the evaporator was very dirty, mostly from debris that got sucked in through the rust holes in the firewall partition at the blower motor opening. I'll have to do some hole patching--perhaps I'll try welding in new metal (I have almost no welding experience).
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yrlvXo1nsJQZoE9X95U6D6L_TEuX65N22ue_oHI4fXNnL4gr2P3Upkv3I3kcUjETtuPkjm3xJ45wUIKKiSz0XPn_hhsv_D--EUI9oyD0At-ptc_6R0b1pU5vktBQWCCqAGNMYh5nQ_c6xJbW5WPZ0DLnwGZq6Rhu7y3NbWsd6cM2-Ao0b4PYDiINKIo-W3ugPSyguZIwcfpDIGVRhYu7giWZsXIxCq6HoAOkFHqaK07AQdKeGiETgmEuVyTCsS6pGx8anQkkWgxgH_Ux0yN9My5MnnCr5wdp-TQ9Hl_89Om3uPM7beu_5ZihlNIjJvWBIKsfiazTlku6D1JnXFC7PzMPcmJijhAZUWmHzswElORI-eZRFHNHfF0ROZk2SlGaCdqU9q6wU1LJ-eOoME_P4UTisAOM9zxTZ6hS9nyPDEcCjkFuAdDMBDwghLcXEIy-rKeiOxTQAoUKD10th3YVT934-UwqQ5qbGw419pKOFElDZFd0Ly_OWJmkfuLeW5HHpvR332a2cWFI124j_yUEYJdWKzuEJgx_T25OcFc_Qiwq-NwO5uqRg-bwtPP9y-0_VHyaMh1ujfQOTt3c0KHZ2jhlkJT4ihJ10ayDe2XxJLr4crM1HrliJtPftTTIZ3vEFkMBs04thoXMCdtUvzJkLNv8ikCi-Cdo=w800-h453-no)

The heater cases have been full of unpleasant surprises. One was discovering that the heater core in the manual heater cases is much smaller than the one the automatic climate control cars have. The surface area of the manual heater core is 13X5", or 65in². The surface area of each core in the automatic heater core is 7X6" or 42in²--making 84in² total, which is 19in² more surface area than the manual heater core. One thing I've enjoyed about my car is the massive amount of heat the heater would put out back when the heater worked and I lived in a cold climate. I definitely don't want to downsize the heater core!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/z8EQUOGizJgyjYqVxWLthQsns5wouEgiQXo9rAr4G6z-55CIdyxk0mFO5wzlmK4-sg-uwYJb3dJTLP-Q7K3O3sLwK0sx3In2BgkkJ8OQ5zB5sYhTDVjPMpzR5mkQ8jSe-8NWuiRQ2RZOLCauxxMwdsDBp-d4-2Bx40QEmvFn6-iLaXgMj7T4HJmL45Fh06UE_tM-g7Kcvt2kzQGEqXXuzfbAlXC0iZNx8WUOyst57iI_bbnGwgIsHfwEcvg9p5dm-jdYaBIdE3rG1pTGorOT61JZkisFXbNx7cG9PI2FoCOApKdAfK81dR1CjRHbPDx_rlPYJyYaRjhQR0NYPCaZaYNn9_ptd68lDSbdXG77mmFLj_LOWlotY_LMm7MSBVbSqFVGDd9cKDtWsxdcHYEhr10IaXZwtTOGGJB30VwqBRFUG8zvqfVsIZh2zD9ASYlX8Plna8vp0Z5RprZkSMrVPG5QGoNlLvYro8tgZIP7_T5r4OGnrXBc1a15J8tvJcsUXp19I1HeQt6GZKTl9KSt0EzbDIBfZpInTuUX7zUvV207KOPzBquHexgK6dyhhNil1IdfkTIQD1WL62Uc5GZF38pb-qHq9cgctakBy9zwvofiioaSyrYDlFli86NGZgYceJixo5Dl3BrXMIXO-9WqpUEJ0mpeH016=w800-h453-no)

Unfortunately, there isn't enough room to install the large version heater core in the manual climate control case, because the flaps which control how much air pressure from the blower motor is allowed to pass through the heater core, are in the way. With the manual heat system, the heater valve is either fully closed or fully opened, so the amount of cabin heat is regulated by these flaps.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MiG_m6iJFhalFITKVc662I1rGQJtqDLTK6kpMnvc0XJNXVxg55BEx30Jur5yl_Nb2I_aubNOeTD839ZOxTGG51i3q_LIwgxC6_9K7a-YRfcwpWuc9GSDfvVNRiqmFU8m3tuWq8BWBmiBkcBbZhuQnpQ8vvqoScavQcWYvrw6GayfoTzzrLtm0lkyZrTC4Yc6PI1RxpOxM_aLMGtAaGE1wqF8uan3OLNl1VJEr3hOEiPZtA0saWF2hRkr5juy3UM8MP8aHz_KnQdKy6BH2jtxlrBeyFtXGlCQL_rMg_knTnsws5u-WQDAal2FDBKfaaYyg2Ci_NGPJacGjkidbBz3nlkuDy-IShCZbZqYktm9gNMuLI8BcqXPN7tTL4xYg-RHfdienfQGRuJ6DHGxavvZ3u81qkqeCxoXXD29IhbpTFwzDdQxmD2Y2wWwlXrtXOYdbfWB_z-fOyVhPceOoF_daT-ljbF0rRpm3kXiXZVA6lXZqWa0L6WM0GVw53csnPQ70oHI1y4A6rid00cpA4Nf90oOaZDA6gAgVu5nZdrPu7Y9ZGVDBjjqoMNyGC8jof7Onpjopv4xqjkPZ8yw4GIwuju4WWD5QXwh5tYpQxYdyAgfme9cPhn0-3SliThrz2jGxYIfucGqTtPph5X9D-i_pAw4eIk2W5Aq=w800-h453-no)

Another disappointment I encountered was finding that the heater cases made before January 1979 (which is both of the manual cases I have) really aren't intended to be taken apart. The parts that did come off were glued with a mastic filler, and the rest seemed to be plastic welded together. So, like the heating and air conditioning service manual states, if the evaporator leaks, you cannot remove it without damaging the case, and the whole case assembly must be replaced. So stupid! So, most W116s have this type of case, which means that if the average owner's evaporator leaks, they can write off ever being able to use their air conditioning again.

So, I found myself being stuck with downsizing to a smaller heater core in order to use the manual case and having to use the broken case that's set up for air conditioning and already has an evaporator in it, while hoping it doesn't leak and then crying when it does--or cutting apart the uncracked case, installing the evaporator, and then somehow putting it back together. Either option didn't sound good to me.

I came up with a compromise; I plan on using the automatic climate control case from my car so I can use my large heater core and can remove and replace the evaporator if it ever leaks in the future. I'll also have the four drains. I inspected the cases that had only two drains--yikes! Condensation dripping off the evaporator goes through these skinny little rubber tubes (which were both clogged and torn) which route into heater core section--certainly not adequate!

I can't use the front part of the manual case on my automatic case because it doesn't have the grooves to hold the butyl sealing strips (remember the early cases just used mastic filler). So, I will need to remove the cable bracket from the manual case and rivet it onto the automatic case. I will also need to remove the vacuum pods on top of the automatic case and fill in the holes. It appears that I can use the lower part of the manual case with the control levers on mine--but I will need to cut away the plastic partition in the center. There are also plastic sheets over the flaps which would make the already seemingly impossible job of replacing the flap foam completely unfeasible unless those are cut off as well. Or--I could use the lower part from my case if I remove the vacuum pod (yes, they hid one in there, totally inaccessible!), drill holes for the control lever mounting and tap in the splined nuts.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7N1L11ynixbFB4nEHVrEt_zqmGmPADU-nOAhFNRZnk76PBQAo6-eTlWpvcLto_G-vVo0dTTBX14Qd_Y0Yzj9i1RloqOTBPgJM5_igSN9xLfwx9zzf2MGGKOsYF9kK53MTb_m_jdwZKn_02Du7Yp87YbpwqUHrPT3gBK0Lwovi_Ioti_h62xoiFLMqrceM_rzCTQuQAU1bGiznB1es-A1RHNfc8pkrKprkifN55nzRm98ElprvOwY6uw7Hx_hxCKhK7Vpf8uh8wFuzydoGRhJCECVseOF_VuUlbSne_Yajaiyythqtc5t_Kso-LsQhnsEx-YU5DrcRsTi7j7HMVXIvkIlNIOzcQ0D5gExbmPlrodcCwrJWaexcFozFbfkuxhhkbIusZKwWNZACQZG5zqqj4Ov-mD0Ebk1ceQss_SPdP6jj6TN-fYSeYBcvUcIV8ORHHrqd56YryNhQmbWiV0VmSTmuh53-P92GAQjPw7JE6KwY5w9JjV-8zTeO4oA9vA5_H_rlbrTPNthgYGk7Kqhte6rRzPesyvcdjaz05i9O_yrsaqX9A1Xft7GbKRr7e95ewd60Xd43foKPUmBKlBp5wVZVNE5CvjVtFhtHv6fQ0CO3SDtBOaP1fRHnmIvpX19E1HAB74aBGm7MUmvC2JAam08_VIlxXmN=w800-h453-no)

Because I'll be using the automatic case and large heater core, that means the heat regulating flaps from the manual case can't be used. I decided this is fine because it's a lot of clunky linkage, more flaps needing new foam, and I drove my car for years with the heater valve either fully opened or closed with no complaints other than having to open the hood each time. Now that I'll actually have a blower that can operate at multiple speeds, I think this will be adequate. I'd rather lose some fine-tuning of the heat temperature than lose heating capacity.

I had thought about making the heater valve cable-actuated instead of by vacuum, but this would be a bit of a hassle to integrate into the system without making it look like a hack job. I also don't think that the slider levers are stout enough to handle that much resistance from a cable that long, especially if it gets gummed up. So, I am just going to leave it as intended with the heat lever on each side opening and closing the heater valve by vacuum. It will be a bit redundant having a heat lever on each side, but oh well. It's no different than the way it was intended other than the flaps won't be adjustable separately between the left and right sides.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 20 June 2018, 11:10 PM
I've been facing some difficulties getting parts. Besides many parts being no longer available, I've been having issues with general air conditioning parts being difficult to find or out of stock in the type I need. ACParts.com was the only place I could find that had the compressor fittings I needed in steel. I ordered them and a few other parts on May 9th (a Wednesday), but immediately decided I needed to use a #8 reduced barrier hose, so I placed a second order for a reduced barrier hose and a couple reduced barrier fittings. I messaged them and asked if they would remove the #8 hose and fittings from the first order and combine my two orders to save on shipping. The salesman said he would adjust the two orders and combine shipping.

A couple days later I got a call saying the fittings were out of stock, but they should have them in stock by next Tuesday the 15th. On Friday the 18th, I emailed them and asked them if they had the fittings yet. The salesman wrote, "Everything left here yesterday sir     sorry for the delay, had trouble getting a few of the fittings".

May 29th came (a week and a half later), and I never received the order, so I sent an email asking for a tracking number. The salesperson called me and said that it will be a few days before the parts ship. He said, "If you remember, per our last conversation, we were still waiting on two fittings that you ordered." I said, "I don't remember that. The last conversation was that the parts had already shipped the day before." Then he backtracked and said that the two fittings were holding up the order because they had to order in 6,000 fittings from the supplier just to get the two that I wanted, and it's going to take them at least another 2-3 days of hard work to sort through them to get my two fittings out of them. And then he said that they had a storm that knocked out the power and they were without electricity for a while, and all these other stories that sounded made-up. I told him that's it's been almost 3 weeks since I placed my order, and he said that usually ordering from them isn't like this, but I picked two fittings that are hard to get. But, he said he's going to "bird-dog it" and try to find a way to somehow get my fittings out of the pile and ship them off before too long.

On June 6th, nearly a month from the date I placed the order, it arrived. The order was correct other than they sent me regular #8 hose that was mislabeled as #8 reduced barrier hose. They also hadn't refunded my card for the parts I had cancelled and weren't shipped, nor for the second shipping charge--a total of $40.35 due back. I emailed ACParts.com and the next day the salesman said he would send it to someone else for corrections. I hadn't heard back, so on June 13th, nearly a week later, I emailed them again. A week from then, now the 20th, I still haven't gotten a response, so I disputed the purchase on my credit card. Maybe that will get some action. Meanwhile, I still need #8 reduced barrier hose.

One of the fittings I got from them was a #10 female O-ring 180 degree steel fitting. Unfortunately, it was too tall and hit the oil cooler line bracket. I tried to compress it down shorter, but it was really tough, so I put it between a jack and my parts car and squished it down that way. It was close, but just a little too far, so I carefully bent it back a little and it snapped. This is one of the fittings that I waited so long to get. I decided, though, that a 135 degree fitting would work better, but ACParts.com doesn't carry them. I looked and couldn't find anyone that sold them in steel, but then came across one on eBay, so I bought it.

I had previously placed an order from another place, called NostalgicAC.com, but didn't use any of it because I decided that it wouldn't work for what I wanted to do. They have a 60 day return policy with a 20% restocking fee, so I called them up because their website says I need to call to get a return goods authorization number. The lady that answered was really nice and I thought, "Finally, a place that will let me return items without making me feel like a criminal." She got me started, and then said, "Hold on a moment." Then this rough-sounding guy came on the phone and asked, "What's going on?! Now you want to return everything?" I told him that my plans for my project have changed and I'm going to have to use steel fittings instead of aluminum ones, and need R-12 service ports instead of R-134a, so I need to buy something different." He responded, "You ordered that hose online. I had to cut it, so you can't return it." I said, "That's fine." Then he said, "I can only take back the fittings. So I guess you're going to ship it all back to me?" I said, "Yes." Then he said, "Fine." and hung up. I thought, "I didn't even get a return authorization number." So, I called back and got the same guy. I told him that I had just spoken with him, and hadn't gotten a return goods authorization number. He sounded grouchy and said, "It's your order number!" and then hung up. I don't think I want to give them my business anymore, either!

I've also been having problems with packages being damaged in transit. There have been lots of delays, for sure.

For anyone interested, at the suggestion of floyd111, I started a GoFundMe campaign https://www.gofundme.com/squiggle-dog039s-116-project-research (https://www.gofundme.com/squiggle-dog039s-116-project-research) to raise money with some of the research I'm doing to find suitable replacement part numbers for no longer available W116 parts. Donations also fund this 300SD project, which would help a lot since I'm not currently working. I've already received donations. Amazing! I'm so grateful.

Now for some progress pictures! So, I decided against using a manual climate control case. They have four awkward flaps that regulate the air going to the heater core. The linkage is cumbersome and every flap jams up every single time on all three manual cases I have. They also have smaller heater cores, and I do not want to lose any heating capacity. I removed the vacuum pods on top of my automatic climate control case.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5ttrTWawPk-x6pxvmLbgreltNhq_d9y2ZMf8-T3a0NXFtldSgC6qQz92vq4jvZZSZ7ao2hOKcXGEPtt36fwOfZclUftW774zR7LeD-8Jyx6bNWWGGwyBuG0xo_qs1OQMA7iKPKTeRaGEtyf_fjwEbvhVW1_iXzivf2SzbBHWdOhsdR9a0Blph8-fx6qz3fimrCuQRibRcyVGEYpPjFabWZp-HVB0a-rlZH0k-A6tnNzTOWMvc_1bSb-pqr2r5lvqreMuQWrJ72o9rgGjqD-jYU5zdvJNLAAK6947VjfD2RK-m2r-F_yHDsgXmgjL4KuOTt6j0V2juJ5tzXpn6R7v8YxpOmlkmi-xLtKgGx4vjZ8cm2b1Jzr4uGexsi-x_3UDQLIp276NOL23NnZCORJY6fB52GDAPjGxqU2DTKDaI3fDavNoyxEGtw5YRY6JTPsSQQied4LK2t6oL1FTsz-CZnoXUQBJgGpFUeIvd9hTlIdJVygjcSvDcwIACJ5BNec9B3qbJWUBcvAOLNimQGinCFBEOXrNVNn1nl1_KGailATip42SPEyo5a30ykGH7FPKQSk8jOlPP9VZt9wwz-ZLipy6hhKbJx6GEq97lOMUCv4bYg7o4u28r6Wn_tBxVsi0ycFsFVNgw2y9vp5jq1WnqODCnYMU4muG=w800-h453-no)

There were holes left behind and I wanted to fill them properly, ideally so that it looked like they were never there. I cut a chunk of plastic off of a lower flap housing to use as filler material.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/eUGIg77rvi4Sd2McgljkmMjucou48LMLN7MHBnVpMUdZJTleY4_TsRmeWYdF64O7P6Eb5OUmjFud2O1StKnLkLPUMvZ96rxVF7Wda7RdRj-ooCfrxH-EBwFm_V9VOt6Kr-meHpdcegW3wzTJaASFt_gt74G4-urDyNtUurp1nJ_IqpJzK2giAnO-7s79FXqtYTfXXZHz8DSLeclJ4LJxyY6e86nLlwRfVU8OjsxOCuk9K9GG5Utvl8R9ubbdqV8juC05NKDr2yyR2KtDVkGiQTasEciNHHWWqMRBgHpoueFIK9CWiAD-62IBEXF1Mm0IL1JiIqBkfbDfZzehbhUL6EO5Pn9YcrMQG67MpygKIIC-rEa1sLSCWkGfl2ubf72gVU2GD3z9-1TpheMKtIiHpRf83GPgJr6jR59Phs-sKGN_jAZZea15IZuxwjfy3-cb4bSE2WpPTQ_2WYgAgA86qQ2ejwDp9zA0TVigYOeu6KMRBaixMKcrXWZ2rbv50ucS3IOpKom81xq_lh7TF_iyW9V1safsHqmpi67mZMTrZsAkzKQOo1jv23UmfoOiTOXVyQXEfbelkF3MZdOPVnIVwffqiisFQHhXXnSnE9gU-TDAZiLWALn41wkNeRO2wNTQiicszUR4VkTk-UJaEy28HQ1C-48a28F1=w800-h453-no)

I put it under the hole and traced the outline of the circle.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/q5_nP2-71ZPAIFtfHhS6SGQ3WqsLWvkQ4UmKzM10Dfk5r6DDSn1fclZ-Ysd_yxOv4oTekfHeADAow2bu52Kw8-Nyl1t4I8MRLWgIHCx4wUoDwpyZ8SHzllqcR62wmVs_SrIwwy6C5VM-IGpgFCP2PtrZNfFQCVesg9hMbOUYLCL2bBfZRuIdq9YAyxPkIlr0J3RP6xUlBNrk0GVIwhiOOApaQdZvTGTIdN-_Fdph-xsyvRsXiSHxJLgohfveVqn22F2Q7xsZTtzTQggaNQMH9TZVVxOcLNEprtFGBnpC6VUO2_IBrkVm5pomFRrV8qz6xsRUSLj1rcgf0_1agiCITC2izO3h1ZnVCj7cxXhY1xj6Mfye-22lKgPYAwRox8pKieCcbSZPGiS0epO3Q47Z1JQORusGCt8pa6O7hOmOSEM5qTdXL8uzGcRmnJ_k8OdyxwntNmpIX7W5ltfYrDD8AcJfrt1rV3IziF2xMg-XLso9cGhUfgua3Ielg-xzcLA3xh_ll1_p2XGymjYiVAxF9K75EeYRu9sGSgOb5QcQarZG4wjS0ohG8t-RraS1UIYZAZXtsz65NRcBVVarHfZCbG4L2WDYKbP77v8rWW-V3CgGli_-3LY593-5GT5dutsyH4vDHah6fxGPyDu-oKnnMBsoBr4vmmZV=w800-h453-no)

I cut out the circle with a Dremel tool and it was such a perfect fit that it stayed right in place.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/KakdZBCkotplu63RMTgQuuvXbuFOxeqNM6eoCPpfRMWkVASjcLQ4QRhBUVEEuiuj1L0k6XRnf6vXQDU3Q7Gnk487OKKOPP0hAo7DaA5fIjnjECZpwmn-r4Bfk4U2EKtIAWyV9FrQXcCTYIzQ0psgzjkMnN4BaSQJyJbYuiwI84TzcgOEGevwyPERdooxdxch4_-Owy-CO-BDrsIYWhTBn2rurVObH6s__huFi-dcTerj4aY772A28htRpgxlMXDzeYUPitR4BaKwGdItQ4S-Wp5haucmWGOi0ozTfVFpmzHhQG9f6alCa8_F45-wIGGfzlJc0is9j86SyAUrJqt0Fr5fYCHl0s2jXpB1N8KKU3s3W6EgFc1RkFsLSTJ78cAy2NFEeuH5v2S0dyzWNy9Iwo_1srREW_4Ckd3E2sg9bYaDAfwSB80gErZzXBkXXnogk7rC4z_h89yDEReKQ4WnOSJXucvAjY39LUJja7Qm35cnn2GClJMZGibhtDBgcN4yuHOUkxh9ENZPOAj94oBUGWSHcliXsomc4z23PmBPqZslnWRy7UJRSjhUtZzmsyJ3KEQXDCm0sFf1Er964mab-TsOISWIPdX78Y05DxO0aoWSzcbTaIouvZeRRDjrV3bNO4XrAEGTCIaYkWpTYZ7LB9K_slYRv2Od=w800-h453-no)

I had a 20% off coupon and used one of the $15 Harbor Freight Plastic Welding Kit irons to melt the plastic circle into the case. This project was my first time attempting to weld plastic.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ty7hoPV-0e61VHQkC3kNLOQ1v6PsgR2zJm0xYnkgE8_0U0ema_HK9032xhAkR78MbR2ACihufxOw1IIxd_Akc-DiROizDqAKpQgGsLnBajDCrmFfiA7c9K0n4tyu-mzjbiWFhzJhqx4E_uTmakSLEOIgJvMfGDrKlo10mSbfJkpCn-xF-2VFH2q7s_2_hP84RxCzajk8fPFcEd27JhgYthRT53iuq4KZ5KTqV4LXI5mo-O7lVLJgF34ZUTjEW9ea7g_27MS8FPcAzf8JdsMaa2ZfNYfg-c9v6jafO8RC5YClDN7havAj7KZF280srXmfBI8IQYhUVKLC9FaUxrtdxp2bU62hNEe4YbmynVxbAT0-qrJAakWy6_K9wuTGs1hQy2X3Sm4q8Ea1KncGlxvPSmOhCp_A1IzwHSln7_HDstc2hm0xvBIp26iGoOhHxW2AHb5AvzrRwG95wU9O-n1rOdiKtgvyVqMgSn0FSGjDaYAJKKe-T4QPdNb6nLja96pyIWwhRsXdqC630G8YpdxfX0kIihE4eA_4hPHmU8GIAxWUfLn_-nbPOm-0BKQsCDACgLw8ksvmvlB1ffocXy0VIgzrRo5v1WDc2LEvrJ8ASVyE7b-23QFOjTSrH-VsFVj9pm8PnAar6x5P6wndYaDUGkkBHkOn8i6e=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 20 June 2018, 11:24 PM
In trying to make sure there were no low spots, I got carried away and ended up with globs of plastic.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zIGuZXLbYxNrNKe3AQyLp9Wnk6881sa_jOwC0aFmVDIjgUnGNmvoXz824oHwPcbkuDoLKutT0-JxBhGyEnY25T2DJno2x8cN5btqjzP6WHH2J7Rfs_LEahMwbLj9ncC0zMz1HPuDm2sPvM4H8WSG6tD84zVIl8IacRiXhueXP9KbxaWj51hBNr5fXTlxeL1EWDlNPm0S37aMtONlTpMemHn1K0COgI1_OyBjrPxacp5cOdxYQHpv6Jn62Swnkly-Lp5WaGnmfH_h2UZtc8WstssfyBOL76Ww6LTVb7DVlaYCglZmM1J9dMGciBjbPoYw7Mm_fZ1vRUHjt9vENakCkUqlKp78n8v047EVJ4UfVK_EB4su49m6ta8upVvV65eZyjDD38SpMQdZn1LgYTlpiL28za0od6igHuwI4S7LWaTF1k96DfCnAfs-4oiABVAb_LHLYX-Ja8GpsFjR_H0b-Xw4WYBGoOkRHRs_WoLy5SH_7LiomaZb5QBAn1su_aUafHmR6obNmLB5dc6MK5LGXtmT3THZ5dbFAuY24p3ZqEiUvXs6YhJ8ChxtDFBA8MaN4bABRYVh6D97WjK563eBEK0taJ5GHPmNu12yRY8xErLbM-x-jxCxz8HDau39OTO_Snyvkkkw1cl8SWwmKnTRdMPfgPDckfXI=w800-h453-no)

I had to figure out how to level it out, and discovered Dremel has EZ-Lock sanding discs that looked ideal. Unfortunately, no place local seemed to carry them, but when I went to Lowe's, they had an accessory kit which included the EZ-Lock arbor and all the sanding discs for less money than it would have cost to buy just the arbor and discs separately.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nEwxwrg1LOZl7lpAdsG86bVb_5qA7NjXA8cCyGyyhv-VTx2fqel9hKy7oBB5uBf26Wva11SYA2ymeS6OB9cT4sxDDFQv1g9I11SK7Z5NnkT_8LXePxZg8Vtk05VTU47h_Cwu1Ufp1sUkQwpFveHI8k0cxjivAfyiImeg5anKtd2sKMEvTxI52SimiNJ6cJMO5U-uqo85JhwF4L1IqexjDVrVvucjQ9kdYaAQIDo0plompo7YVezCfisJtBjOt-oxEXz1aq5otWi7YWqhcFp_T4ggUyeLwUVFoRZ8G5JJiEIY7k37fxqwk1f8oeq6GlUadgMid_DMC_dsmC0-RaG5F73SHF8vsLsmdV9WNtssFf84M_vIIzYKAKHjn1AEw1eVZHzFf5esdUWJuC2ko9IhzbxDhoWi7SXeyZsBeZtZ1V0HwF7udNw_dhUUValyjUFsN4PyLIpgFUpel7nLdH8dne2tVT_Wg4v9VMwAZJCyMrpp0IRtFzetNzmvaQJqWH0FlWHUEEaWyszYPqCN26lKyCRD0UEzMqSxxOz_LhwWA-HukQ-t5ZyzruRhDX-1_AxdvJwsGEoipGs0xuXkigAxa8kRjSWB3FdV2g9wEee9ilyVHNyQWdfQ8lzaPgFOfWV4o8cd058VjWhArn58c2os4vaft0O9PMOc=w800-h453-no)

The sanding discs did a good job of flattening the surface.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/367PRE0Xxsph4-8KhWSUF3VSuv39Tba_-c24d1QMXjN2p6sYc_QwdH5ckfh3dps7Gk8fYsjuC1P9DTN6RrTy-x4EukfIcC-INmlUg9Uyzkv3IAbMhbAcBFe5IcleJctXfEKhNmZTnVyYfOlObfVagS3kSMH9dh7GOeyp1xysbkC8lYNV_rtEngGMr3jln-ZcamBMfQLXC2DSUrlZDTHs95LoraX6BSG0zAVBxBcuK9tCsPLxK_3PFnnUtq57wnFZzwUadz_So4fc78JffC0b_Ban8uvRWE8vY_g9Zn7qGEIqzcJMllLgJN6o5Qxabnqq-vC8Z2b5nciMSbKqD1eHlXJVc5o129EWu0hLije3xwe6rJDEYkkykoO9JTPvZjwARXIzx6_ua6O_8cerY7Uv3ua8FXpnHe1zfoPB3Avrwkuv0slNlGswQ-qyaTj4kWEltdroxWw59Mb0kSoLauHMlgp8YPynJnlSkw--rNAv49DgVgIswi39TvswMFoFnFeFztDCS5yeOBap_5BFjG5_FCsxZ3Y6Sa0gV7kl1jSab1zfo9ijJxZuJob_SgyFjJGJsGK2is3Lt9AS3zkehLTrDTCm6OevECksZq9SiOFkDY1OkmN-KeaxUkwxs-9k1I5UCkxEHRvpWiR3oNyh-DrTaH36lOGYCYa7=w800-h453-no)

I found a box of high-quality Testors hobby sanding film and a headlight polishing kit in my garage, so I used those to sand and polish the surface.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/CzwDhEWyjmZtL9UYJaHh9Rd0_HDOLiD1yN9VVcyeyMaAVIApRDOYiBnsrLk0ujRZfaWs4jypknF-sBCET3MgWu5m8-8eofnMbC4YZmMC9npldBt_t8C3i1cALuRHPfszimQlMJF-MSTQz8oCYlhpDuO5otN9pi2aIXWLgxtpTClD-12ANzX6tnMdhw0CIg_P3_Izj6s4qIRYwMak_T-XwONGEpe3yJqjquhETUtfnDBZLCq63RZs4YARMn92eunpTvtESJrt0DpdNZBDsvI8NKINo8RocbHigIU7dofKGC6TGV3v4g6QhKKEsufK_V75YJR680NANsi4omdwdN3SMyF19MaZHySvvCm1YMgrUeZCSf-2QANYiHE5Bj03UoabTKewctXj-gI-9VJ6aX2E2BnMA5megWJpLrXz2y3cqR4Cf1qC02bISGjx4_XIclwvdlDJDSx-m15nyrO4x65e1yBXPVzETU1L8C6YWwd552jLPmWXxpD5R2Qs_JGV0n5Vzrwvi_DN9ZaOrawJJDiJS5PsTPNCMr0C1IQCSIsfBaOJt_YD9wMCAgK-rDlnsvP78O-XjXPWOIb-fQzjaRLelXjjuBy21T8_26CCxFzMpJ-L2jw5-kEtoH5rG-CID1Ua6RPyhzCuz3j0iPzSEMjHPzpFgCbW6-_x=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 20 June 2018, 11:40 PM
The results were less than perfect. I think that I used sanding discs and sheets that were too coarse, so I wasn't able to sand the scratches out completely. Some of the plastic I filled in also seemed to have air bubbles or shrunk, so the holes that were once there weren't undetectable like I had hoped. But, it was my first time attempting this. Looking back, I probably should have just left the globs of plastic. I actually tried brushing acetone on the surface to remove the scratches from the sandpaper, and though it filled them, it left a bumpy surface which I had to sand AGAIN. I also filled in the holes where the ETR switch and copper probe tube used to be.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/PXBPs99DHCTWH54rrXZTU3lgpVHq2ecYvH-JbzoFakidydAw6SU2Oh4YLnaYCjd67eS3ZOdCAXT7Dv5xLPt0JDdbSJHMh9qYUig_6Qj2j2pCKL0rpCs-ryqkvHmWdKicCt03iJx00Rbirne0a7je0yNh18gZSgHhq2qD0OuLjDwo7DDYc0yo3qV0w_QPvV1mUPl039UprDQOJ3AFEBJOk7Riv2QszPhQ7WwZLaznXYnGbQnb97uAWlA3Me9qXABPypsZNajWOy6Rl4umYfEEw4_Ycr1tb5xL6r9HHWPVL5OkdR3PDLUAnbWLGpK7p9nRU5OM9JVG1cj4UP8dRKpqxCWZfyiIINMfH3pejoiD9o4cxBmvNuVzuf6HoiZeyd9MSeLURyVr3gkAS95E5elFBZ3MEUuSywybwy4I5dnDWZqE_FTtw9Iqq8P5NoQ_FwwxxqtWSJwTxHxYFigV6_xnIei-3fErTuQBU6UKTIJi9e55wtgcizF5WyCFC9ISXgQROjdekPW_lQ_cjzWWd7_jPCtFJTQUIMMo3QB27ByDKYZs_ajPqY_TAHZUB1LpXflyeIILS8fhmLo0f7_9kmw15ZiWlzL3TWOW162SFvfVKsICNjyIVK2ZKsvxqgHOKCGSGkZgotjbajuDnFX3wbDhV0QY25e_ae9u=w800-h453-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/SG1T1vYrz8cyvfXQzsOE7UGffwhVqI3dZ-AyO2MSrLqq7vtrDAUwTNCkTUZPfaBkL0aOHRtuH47YB4oFTBS7IZ7HANLzkpowdqnFLOvMzhQW7kqoZpDsV0lRvgLfxPadpOD7C7lZnPE_4wZ5zGHIpNnwXRRqWuL1exvzoNJ3_r6NYZRtepPti9mgWcXLSQFrrcu10qgAbrE5q-1odhf7nnJ99blX3jMvJ0VxrxDl1XVn5uE-zvCMGWQTDCoZTVPW-sV2AoPU90JtW9lXmdUKX0nBYh-VjpDXXe8DalymfS5tz3sGjHS8-gQ-anoy4wawI0Cp0RYlHeGpwSIUqV3P9M1eOlnGMAHfjyUugKCWgVqFMvTnYg631Bnz8nJai_EFOjQmQWfMSeVQm3lsg99LO0DB8s8o6GvG7hWkvvyHgXCOuKzPeHZun5c528bp3oo8mntEhiyGEB3KjHQjoqJfrYjCCYbLYEsQtEb_r8JOK5N_FqjHCplJDDhqdTUI9Bx069kF1g_A5IIUqitrbeqK330ltxYCvP9pzVH-o3iWgn3M7mW9oQ8HGULSBnK3-uK06gL5R6ruSPqMmsJsTtxWy4GrxPOPYIYa0R8E9UX3gvi9KJael1ArifTbXkgNV-ASFUTpWm2DzcpnedUgzlfSbSagkOpXb-uF=w800-h453-no)

The boot that goes between the case and the blower motor case was held on with clips and three rivets, as was the rubber cover on the opposite side. In order to facilitate changing of these parts in the future, I drilled out the rivets...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VTi_Rqd5FLpuYrezPIBuEhibskxsEDSfDXbVFyYVGgPlvsmGQ8lC9TfMDc2Is58s2v9Y7oPN2I9mC_lKBV9bDX4ZUngT19FVGBuuzycHhHYT70dYkhFreeTBWepS3YD22pFoXKmo5CVm3M9o8wQewhW8nDsPb6BTCY7kLXdKCYxZzjhTYVedz4oOcUE7OhLcyGNKdSlyq-XV2AF9y2i_alQf6fvoinsZhOLxnvN54iI5X90ALqHjTZ8u9pacSAMXB9hT2-xMqqSBkN8E5ph7BEWPAc0VLC0hWDMVIqFoICG4_OxACYYtrMOXigl9iwINccm1uD7xqw5dI9SJksAQr5Y_CrVN7g_V3HziuMVXVoxUprjlx52VhxqNmnAeVLkMfuom2vhi-yoZjtMMhojeZXOndbqBfylu3b6clQnAG3L-ugPzY6CVLeH5ZubfP_OOEgq9vPsg3ZTYOpBDEYV-D4qHjYXl3qIugbvwFte2xS5hhnXhm9wOir-WNZcnQUpfBnyTFs8afJxSBGMvH34D2G77qxcAbUIrHPXaaFLM_90F2RAuN5XKekdiCGxjyssC8JhDoaGPcX3Q9UTz2YXsahQ8g8A5SfVTdIx1MdutfBoh3_q_eRYzJ1JlJOc0utXdQSqppCyYAuARw9Nvvm1SXnTbrWjyP3YV=w800-h453-no)

...and replaced them with M4 0.7mm stainless steel press-fit nuts for plastic from McMaster-Carr. To install them, I drilled the holes larger with a 1/4" drill bit and then carefully tapped them into place while supporting the backside with a metal autobody tool. They work very well.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4n0PLNqZaJLto7ffReeh-dXGu3YjMV0und8BWBymiEU8uJfoAAIDipyEibzwXJkysYmUx_kDI_IDnJh5IgqdzwHJ7AoFTYIlliEP3o-Ap2nouSNOuATXAinjtVRvoqxJMb2Iuq6UWlyy_jrrSE1Ccfe8A4MWkc7ERQvLX-Qe4Pr3zLWxuWf3APA0iG02ll8eErJRlQUn_7LnT5Orou6rBrpsi_xseVqyvje9CO3zs4WpnS2skpFfxwsb10bjh7_wdMeAH7zhSAv5jmw4pzRoe8pwEQDU-T6NoR2VPKHD7wt4qMoWirBwkkYmbtxveYSP-QTX9t8Rd5XkCnkU5dsBs9LxjyCuBbbDAQ5eWcI5t7OpYHaW3zbiAb97EEWM7iZCjlW74v2sG8OHlFUmWHcC0OvsWjUmuZKS27MAZOF_TQwFz_ihIvxnV9Px7Doyp_7LN7bAb_oZ6BtS7Zdbxp60WbGw6DJcEb5Zz6sNbsgWNBDwZV2rcDslyX-5N14ZDt05dH9CA-gnH9TNNBzOuZTEoIdpuuuGbeyWlFNr9XTcMKrVHQuQzuJm_qUnUEUEaSyHIMaOKIe4sl4BfxBOgGntGm0SIJo4iroIWJNDJfdR9WeQFCOTVit_O0xzbexDeN-uS8B8q8RW-nTUKE89pJxNaCzCjf_tDHem=w800-h453-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XDPwTF_VsmmI1P887hfZIOHfSFPkH998AD95QfklARKu6TysCgRO_qmyjKJM89gj-vXcnxjJPddMj2zGQuViQBYeoH46l-3oUIQ6lWG4LThXvnBJwreL-PrYp-WVTv7CqyhfUOm9hLi7_cpUn8cuWOFqNL-zZl2UN6GMCt_fzfESmw2x-ONrP9_Jxh-MxnCqBQKNso3qH_g7UBw3uBH8Aq4w73HrL--Htdq8j77Awk18xXdIltqpw2TFltc6vVLrPD7kZjauKCgcJVFYD40J2LHCWvEVIrqZHEZSVaz4yi5WwHKFVy-tnOW2x9nH4EovaAiuzSo2bTD_k2-OTqIIhnoiRMkFyYe-bdG2iuvGalYZFs6_IJZ5iUjqAZF8roGNh7W0xKxyZ6XVjEtUKbhm3rnfAUoTa31L3qUKDb0T0hhghLQI8VgUWIBzZcvUDxX801dzeTzksgZlcstDBtUVBWW2rhdo895IzGujXYP5ilMGbgzj_tnfjls7yihtjo-l-sxsE3MnYya9z9UG_G9jPaN5aRIATvZAVS9iRt5hOY6P9YChXhrPfMQeas8O0hcAGmviyolnBXCRFxUGvZ-7k9skNYs-XV4VEYaupYmMeoY6ukIN502tDSP961KnU14ARg2UvvNK4ax65aL3lqY9PflBSwrI3wsd=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 21 June 2018, 12:20 AM
The evaporator was badly corroded at the bottom from debris gathering up, so it needed replacing. A new one is $1,050.00 from Mercedes and used ones tend to have corrosion problems. Fortunately, Four Seasons makes one that supposedly fits (because it also fits the R/W107, and I'm sure that's the ONLY reason an aftermarket evaporator is available for the W116), part number 54131, and they sell for $100-$200. I got one for $68 and free shipping from Summit Racing, of all places.

The evaporator is constructed entirely of aluminum other than the steel side plates. Some pictures show copper tubes, but this is misleading. However, I've read that all-aluminum construction is better as dissimilar metal corrosion doesn't effect it. Apparently even evaporators for cooling of buildings and homes are now all-aluminum and are lasting longer. There are also six rows of tubes instead of five, so it should be more efficient than the original. Unfortunately, the pipes entering and leaving the evaporator weren't correctly aligned. Design flaw? Poor quality control? One-size-fits-all not what it seems?
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Z3ITQrjU5jGU3chnBgSXh5uipp19fAMK_EZW4x2oc4gq0mAmYeUkt293VpZHjBD3evoeHuov6ZXRcAbU-w0m_J5ZlFMtAQUXsFm0uOIn2JQgfHSxTFZeZZnC7ZWfat3mBOJTYQYJu9B9xfop0-Vo13ZOy7SORq3U7z0LUMrpHTHF8bA4s1-4mWIgZ7x-FxC1YZ2kDMbmlCuDuNWszwcYS2F1DNHZO4Sz3KJrOOE_cYgIJ25lgikfNHWHPIXtZaGTFfG2Vd2zMdSbdttDkGgOORSpcNdNwLX-Huc7EGl1IKnVh2YyituqsthmVwp7dQuZpI2yQt6zpeL454llliB_ym0MuRpcYS91YxtaIAoYI7VJpa_kQ-UgDbB03UuilInsta07n3wNXfQU0cPmX7SpP5pPNIcyMDgB3O5O8D5Q4DDvgMvulrf2S4XoZMbR--CwnkMBGI7tba_UKP-c4IoQzHfs-7RQ2umXN7UGJBb06wgom4aOEGz5n-Y396z73XG8V_03pKhsA3BC52WS8kHwn8xaBpZ2gXuwxeeLD8G9KvL5ObnfWCPL6TfvKAcsOAe7MWPCtN9T1mmGnSgIzbQBHjmjCVPnoOPCjNMeKeAJYuHrW44ZP5Qjh8ulPfk75-7-U7jshqu79oWK3z4fiSABr8GgPA_cMGdW=w800-h453-no)

I had to tweak them quite a bit before the evaporator would fit into the case--to the point of nearly kinking the small tubes and having to squish them back round with pliers. And then more before the case halves would fit together. It was disappointing. I'm glad I didn't inadvertently puncture a hole, as afterward I loosened one of the caps to check fitment of a flare fitting, and it made a loud hissing noise as air pressure escaped. I let it vent off for what seemed like a very long time. Finally, I untwisted the cap and heard a BANG so loud that it almost popped my ear drums and the cap shot off. They put these things under some serious air pressure to test them at the factory!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MLWW-2RxXpgrnXy387rQhBd1GsdGclMTOgylkOFdBGBDfrdeWWOUYJnyou1gvtwYedHuhHwCN07j42r6v6mmx1KR8gqQW5_pJkt_hQtrdNoD3ySYSSVmVqQ_wUbXR_Rh92gdi1rw1WkIyJivQWzO5062VWTyguXAzyxf7HjHkpoPwmlzDCpsp42v3ed0bs0LYVbqLh99zbbgagd_KZKAGCmRIEBa_D-4yBFskxbQNG4mU-eN9LGq4xAXIfLEJPm8QuW9jKOjXrZ1T9JgCvnRcbADuioo7FdtyGCn37q5w3vghTj0WtCdgE-GV5_8qTa_WAlHcTAfBTZGDTSzTmwVSGiXylHAUjAbjC_P_iko6uhjCNKymwt1bY6YlqZ9OUkTetwRZmLHzoJGa8o5sdVaOVzwWNODkvQ1ldeYhgbpF0OVYynrGAX5t2mI-QnkgCd_THiYkM5s0ZHEOjW-CQWw1Yg1tiKFFbaEVMNkJVS-W0R724hTDE32EqMuwRJpzS3qPN4BP-NzBGJDLeZK9NMP3INUOn2K5VYwrgb65igTKsDn4x1R-sQe2vSZa9NAm5_VoxKuXQfDzm3uuEptIPoZBDOL_GBvKYvrV2Q2G6j1LQRHswRbgAj-gX22xKGB3y8QPFdrz9c60ZMKRmQn-zRy-2d2wgZYSdAv=w800-h453-no)

The evaporator needed foam in between it and the housing to prevent air from flowing around it rather than through it, where it is the most effective. But, this was challenging as the tubes were much tighter than the original. All I could think to do was cut some 1/8" thick resilient high temperature silicone foam (from McMaster-Carr) into 1/2" strips and wedge them into the left side where it's really tight, and then push in some 1/4" thick, 1" wide high temperature silicone foam next to it for a tight seal.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sbKY6h2JqqDYy-bzmdXdRYPymHic-lhj9y3bxWzPhgkC-eIFMXyoMXC7k8Qhqz65sZwMaVSrISrcsIT5arMp4cDkuqgHUNSvE5ZxfmcoN7D2dxRyfkqO0ZAwsP7qNsxdFwf6wbCowbgkAYd_S0BVqXYhS20wyb_fw-CxZojRi_Y0EKKsEytHkkqhAA6Nqx4gKVDijS3Tz9zSUhw0aAxiLta7qoTUIEq8spzGl1CpF-KHdlDsEydOTwAV9xFl6yTOeM1lAbhfJdHuOtIefdzEGVCuoBVyAxBPf5DqWwCI-sKLu-EtLWcIrLrQVrRbD1D-8PzUSGAbGvD9-1MvJ3osJyJ2pq5_d3FpIjYpao6Q1Nsc4lmfVuTjzIlVJMPld8Sjc0fOtm9DOZgyg66uwOw_u4aomyuxBeTWQtDpl4kj3yAbYsgDMlFgFAcDhKC0Z4CXkOtKo4E5mqVwWMBrXrkVbiJ9eddt1wMdO9UAje9QkZ2VK12idFNeausVikPCBa7cxG6TpgYFVrrJQ_qYh7kl-PYOSFQhKHlXu1JJt7Ew-wDWzPtkJkdUqMi9lAxKBh-FxH1z3uXZ7IOfUfFD6-LE_1RBKrqxmliUN2SPirecROYXpG09GZGZ2M2RE5lSbIfVFor18IvsyHIC52xrnbSjR2_dekyAPXwA=w800-h453-no)

The right side of the evaporator got just a 1" wide strip of 1/4" foam. Oh, here's another fun fact about the Four Seasons evaporator--the mounting holes aren't just lacking threads, but they are also off by a lot. I had to drill new holes and install captive nuts. Then I had to cut off the upper corners of the mounting tabs because they stuck up too high and were sharp.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zZQZvZj6qRLi81boCWSFNlSVn7zZecwer7f8yXljFUq2YgUiwIRTuiNiFSxubbubuUNgRh28lut4SEhiXL2nBFy55zaEIEfYTxMtyGl5k9Eh7owjU_GiIpAe4ukriCjg8qou6FPCYlXLFy-B2xPeOECiLtGbreJlQgeYM3Vnau9LBRMI5TCoHVpJVlblDbtnsaHW06pR9ikR8ravsbUHlNAIoDunYF67YIcO1-wEjmLIcKyMgso7ZuULMN_1_RvgZ5wJpjbskcaLEsHSRuj-wp4NzGH2M-CZlr99Bbt0SMit3G5ObkJbt57e4YGlTw3gKS0o0zI57TAvwJLo1kic910THOsqSDJX53UlUGcgICGR2V_CowO8JHHz6avhjIRGuMDMrZMVPWuLmzPfrWoxxAOMTPMXPM8LRTaOCevzJv58oRrl7GSKAHaRuLOjsGo5j5AkgKKahAXzzdj5EeQforQuf2gFjAZEFzkaUHIC5POJMI8w_4h2qQA-mTF4nBAm06397coN57HP1ngIsS6aNLvwOGdGA8WExz_G-42zxla_2bO2TK5odOXfcQ5AEvew7CZG9VG3tMZ5Vocm7O6amVA8lc2l2GfNDQEG1TJiOVNyapI487BgzOpEf9GF9jXtPqNEuoiYDfLylc7DrtKD_IXkh0IX_b_F=w800-h453-no)

I put 1/4" foam on the bottom of the case and 1/8" foam on the top of the case. It was tricky to put in the evaporator, but it's in there snugly and shouldn't have any major air flow leakage around the sides of it. Yes, I am building a space shuttle. Big whoop! Wanna fight about it?
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/b-Imz6oVMPSGGgmtglA2yDW_pQYoGnqw2QKyQQQneKnR8LOr2oSwKLWzdW3gqgmK_KwFXddeH8IkFCB1rEdnKO_0nUS1wzRL6LNywDYO78Lvae3Sl-DgLW8Zqfr12UBarkzvWAyJx8U-sKXDUShAUh0-w5Keal1FLa6uKD9dJM45Gj6GZh4K1sM10Eov1jsLOLFtCdbVAAdu7QTvT0JHy5FycQqcQkXgRXUeaYAbWaCnwumvDZUNSgUPGtmPwCdaC-2PNSpN2O9Ho44nzmKbS1hmGNiwqON6BSFwIohWhWNbVwgnJdZ5wn8QM_Uz6dQoSUy9D8w55vSQwaLOWNJxQxQXk2bfqmhkoKAMGK-ZjCkc482fLGxu72cM0iyUl9SrmSlanLKou2_1IMZaAcEFJrKTXqWHE4Gw3fmMwPMJJ5DRlPFAPkN4V7_f1az_BCaE_KcWCg4zEKHi_yOXhau2nxJxbBDL_NKTsvw46q17_x9bsQ3LNJwkXziFC66iPiiyESYkRUC7-4FqU7ZqSQpna8X8Rf-XVdTVerR8ZDpJjoj7jyQhUPuGRjtCy4mHjRH-m7hrZtq7uqwr_Xr-Nt8gr-xH2ZdixF3SeWdFe_ddgioJtmHBO4RI_89HF9jNhUPMpNaAwzGxDgZ1NWsGKEtHmAPYWTlfL0MX=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 21 June 2018, 12:55 AM
The automatic climate control cases use two sizes of neoprene foam sealing cord. EPC only showed one size, part number 000 987 51 33, however, it's about 6mm thick and the larger size of the cord in the case seemed closer to 5mm. But, it worked. For the smaller size cord, I used 3/16" diameter neoprene foam cord from McMaster-Carr. It looked identical to the stuff Mercedes uses.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4U8vGVaZKjPYfxUvPVpvFAb2-b5kX0OlzrtuT7kylQmF166FU3VI19s1WEYED3brysYlz55Fhjij6f-w5avr0hRNPh5zWlGt7KBoK3-fWaRyjJlOdt7d9yvo2fhh-Zjeq6Cw6eBHZRr3mNkpMRVUkKT_m8mVnk1ZB7V2G83iNV5_NDHQfsO2ui2D8pJTEomDzUWxnqMFfcHKvHqLXqutROjY7FqYzAS8-18yKZYTcrgQvBMdF7653pl5bpMGWwR6zFH-Ig5ga8U7eRkvx2wcEGwYkHUkcXal1exXrMUeguplDgdJ3nLaZX6fNOZnOyLkBRPLk5vVFdnmTMok9EO9k30SNtTRV1SB6laYd3MXXUtirlhPpkbeCKRj8i7QXxBQEbHXfCwx1oTFcWbagDU2iMgNiBtL0VuTh1aIkVl_nS6fN9oZVppwNOF--fLrpcZvM8ir0zrkub6ECrW06D3nepW2B3T80o-ntm4Y7GBXpVbQdWLvmSaDq_Lpw7mY1cWqm6PkXg6JmAWuNeX3TxfQvrKoi6Chm-4MNjU312c8b2DwZim3vi8IJlO5P8EZEi87G9hgVBELGRjiYXkOluhRtbkCFFA_huY65MUIOtkhjlvGu0sIfrLH0C8mpfOwkrntmI6e7zPHuWKnTb2JEv7T3kjGfMH9sMCt=w800-h453-no)

In an effort to be prudent, I took the heater core to the most highly acclaimed radiator shop in Phoenix to have it cleaned, checked for leaks, and rodded out if needed. The shop owner thought that was a crazy idea and a waste of money. He said to just run it until it leaks. I said that it's a big job to replace one of these, and I'd rather have it worked on now and have peace of mind. He said that they can't be rebuilt because when you try to solder one part, it opens up another part. He looked at it and said, "What is this out of?" I said, "A Mercedes." He said, "Ah! Mercedes! No wonder. They can't just build a normal heater core. That's why their cars don't cool worth a darn and they always have overheating problems."

He said that he couldn't rebuild it if it leaks because it's "too delicate", and the most he could do is soak it in a tank to clean it and check it for leaks. He said that if it leaks, he probably couldn't fix it and I'd have to buy a new one. I told him that a new one is probably $2,000 from Mercedes, and no one makes an aftermarket one. He said, "I'll make you a new one for $1,000!" I feel like whenever I take something to a shop, they don't want to work on it and act skeptical about being able to fix it.

I told the shop owner to boil it out in the hot tank and check it for leaks. When I picked it up, he said that it was a really good thing that I brought it in, because it was totally plugged up and nothing was flowing out of it. That's a different story than when he suggested that it was a waste of money to try cleaning it, because "Either they're good, or they're not, and if they're no good, I can't fix it." He said he hooked it up to pressure and it took a lot of time to get it unclogged and flowing freely. He tested it for leaks and says it's fine. I'm glad I spent the $45, but he didn't hot-tank it, which was upsetting because I specifically asked him to do it to remove the corrosion and rust and clean out whatever was inside of it.

I mixed up some oxalic acid and soaked it overnight. It came out nice and sparkly. I painted it with high temperature semi gloss black paint to protect it from the moisture it will see from being next to the evaporator.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NJouD0DQdV5RLbwj46iZN8dyRoZ-xddRqQkhl4JQVu0ik2AxkT50kdp72wLvFmTMpKI1MyH3FL6_SW3saoYRRuly1ArtK4vjiOmJggQZvg8b-NeKGyoEUJy5PcyDD48QL1i3Jd8N7Sw1268sN_HXxR7WqYr99MijKYt0I7wzqEKc4XVi86X_fw6rSmx1pDgGek1FINzIf4JybkKr-c1Wx0GQ7NX9WrvwwRD_0_OhOGRf0JZ8KUkFlcNpymIibCDrjgy3TX7q6xx8U3OQaGxmi9RxzTfZezSLiheqUixX4ZjcEwdz3NFkhScy3JXDFxb7OuFVKdweooUaB1M2mDUcd0rx9jsN5EF8LhkfnB2h7MFTRv7AARe1Y1vLGID-n_7op_8h1etP0QvhjWVrJ0O_KjKUVbacs2WHjq7K4S0VsIu_Ba7ib9HC3yQjlzSsyAKno2mAgbf9dM-8AHSRMJT7td6jLvb7AU94vOCGLgPxyzTPXFlXQ_gq8ox0x2khp1SBdrbB1ve_VkT44SnFR1Fo1wsCk3VYUXcNAU9ihOx9FHQhcWqeeqaxffqT4We_wJb00ySLInNpgYhkdoe7g_kGvU2fcjyfxwfT-M3e3wOxyE8wKUnpPwvfIT-tJr0XJkwEtIL0wOmbC_kgClaHOcD-BLIJNMrL5Q_k=w800-h453-no)

The defroster flaps come off after the shaft is slid out. This can be difficult because the shaft gets gunk and rust on it. The cleaner it is, the easier it slides.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5jgG4qxNfbAyVU0oWV2J6byC43rbDA4kD8SapEK7qg0gFl1xAyiHEGfxbDgcxELi3dfoRqVUhiNnDMGPnGKo8PsRO7PFrb9QW5pprwiBAmaylIiCSngE7-eysZWjm5GVgrMCgmJu3PKt2RCDfE0zLkRKGEpLASiQU88tlAafyTP3KgwkL9Pkf54rhrzDhtbECArSylx2e5DD7T9e6_VB5dV3rDIgOCZ-AtdJmcOWqjKCpdtPmjzwQUTSZ-LCtCP5GtLDCdHJ0ja3IfttGUwDQltCkXRCU98rMDdvnM_hSOc4zZznZ4Br3qwCSSc6HN7eMCh0XnzFGJVy37GWo-zBIrrOydX95Lg-xncca50CQKNbnuT_3uqv0Xzs_vAdzg0RdGNj18DCDyUHMbs_cWLZQWOF_lyEOkjfp_0iySICwAgJrUTztI6WDEjJ37aBG4myL4x3-wdkYwQ9ufipWdniksE-weVH4ITh59cvdfJ3A0G92KsWT2-3EE7ygkX7xdOHe_r73KUIDAFjC3dPZK2vyA0SnCIx6ZqdwE991Vy9OM5NGhlKG4uDPToudrHxuDlds29sFQG5lPTarO17pVjEdfut9yPCzQPPAyVXtmApiJYSArqIs1A2MYl_YgNnJUJXJQmnTemfVdvcTObSebq05dCNau9Hp289=w800-h453-no)

I drilled out the rivets holding the defroster cable bracket onto the front cover of a manual climate control case so I could install it on the automatic climate control case.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ScsN1HRGsp4k2Wi-YbHyUWwGsEt3-0VX_8yYSuk990Q9gi97Rq-Ol4KeoJjsMCvM1O6xNeevRMGae5Y3BNSsBi3z8cnIIX8yLxkMhgzfxzX8vTz--z4ziAru33649zcmy5yB7cK2oy-mS-sJ4htuA6x-vimoMraHgK-ZY8DD8dR8Wgu1BkazMiL-1ESfOFkYOfdXIUHJxCL0OzpCY6xJyJ6j_8SZor9qr4YY6jkePJ_lbbhOdQZ8fY0INpd1ZnoEPE9ji2gxkqL9leDzSacLDLU7YGdGZCZiRgZX4Y55sXcKMbmzVblahMxPn41Cr_Tjg_bXSINoUS0C2vM4MlBYG14ftm283aUu7dk1_925GMJwkhxovCe1hPHtyfE3Xj9WrETuaejiBi-AllxZbx0xPx3L0cQr321b8jVciP7bYM8D78cn6sC9h8ImS13c_qmsf1XUv_sQw6_JJh6eiJEt4CLkNQ-ENSvwuEQO-QMgcS33ggFD0GWpHNVFIOUyQIVEYwp_tImatVuelcfxhA5hPsd_RtlhBMgydZZduzwV9xCv8nYxIuSBIIpgxTLAREB_MhOM6Etmhk3fCSLXpHYRHpNbeuBU8CCcIt_Ex_LCg_gvR1Ptni06kzaRNU-0zimAk90CvJ85IVW6TI95Toq6uejMee8jSImW=w800-h453-no)

I drilled holes in the automatic climate control front cover next to the round indentation for the temperature wheel so that I could install stainless steel M4 0.7mm press-fit nuts into it for attaching the cable bracket. The bracket had some indentations from the rivets that needed to be pounded flat, and I tried to match the contour of the cover. I threaded M4 0.7mm X 6mm long button head black oxide hex key screws into the press-fit nuts.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3tENHgBR0Y8a4TZrmgEplEsCPprkcrCwHYVTucryMO8_CCTveuhEn6jrxQ94qykpFYp-EjNONNxleeWH11p17f2ghrPWvkJDRKSU2GJSkT1b2n1fd-LSPxH3XiF4W2H-69_jvywIxlKE6wtU-CDm-XoiSeVqz_52xdz6inUSfOXlx9t8DLl-SFA-0lApetq-j3S1_Gekkh2Afgh279Mf-8B7kQQxVCQN0qcJZ8Vc5PmGnLoLfIwTNibXtxzQgAhfsJr4b91nNMpaXJtashsQ9EV-IbdKM8e8PfaYpqGrfnQkNWLhyHehzHB1Koo6GXCQNuqwMQnJZ-ERYbXll5JYs5K9NY6FnlLgv43S3I_LgyL3UbuX0S85pQviZP5LbfJ6WWVmRCWVsnw34iuJy3nDtcXnbPMD16j464GU6boCNz2Nlm8jKqlONQR87m_FQLoqCZI0m2hBfc0RoeBAqlKLo3lmwzHIVKNzIwb7lyEyvXzdurTdM4AQa87fNopHmpOAmgjyPEtRov9flot3_s49HW4Hzu7StSdGvEFJQptL8Vtyt_mx3cPM9uWl5YjcXDPbjvsBblLthMXtkAp6s8YYxj5Q_dov1nd2Wq3onmT2-GW9cRUosUPcn6Pdcm3nkcoBG1wKs8GxZm6eZcWeMk4bRltiNkfbG89P=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 21 June 2018, 01:31 AM
The foam on the early style defroster flaps are held on by adhesive and metal rivets, which isn't very nice. Fortunately, I have the later style ones that have retainers that snap on. Sometimes an evil Behr employee would plastic weld the ends of the snaps so the retainers couldn't be removed. Mine were like this, so I used a spare set. With care, the retainers can be pried off of the flaps.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_6idPn-dXGmTCLelwxG6iaHtQqH84lKi637hRQPbyTlNdIg8icfHd2Il22slYqyHj40qYQ2E0YfpW9Rqd6pBPkC5shMrMzrQtrEglaq7npSva1E2iLA8ynSk0mu6q6lE5KxncfGmIILofTyxBVpT1ffgSozv7zB8LJ5LQR90weRvIwUh26N9sHdblHNFWwm2lHJIU5o9mUqJTNpWT5I_rEvEDsfKEJyT4_tlz8XNe6gz1xZpMZB781wdY00i9CqEbNiBckGUDK4_T1uuSuboDlYDzfCIBss2RCuexsQX_FBta_hGqr_dc3jDTaDzkZnCLaqeBuLxjZdNZz0_xb2JgtoHqCnBbCpRp9O-KfLY-XTmrjyFt3VxFzMoKWiZUmJtdW6zpB6SwSZy0kLqG6B8I8MtXvQ982OI07b2CVTaU1TZBLJlu6WcLEEpOwFEIBSos5tf3rRYU5ugNHih_P5ITOH4aQQr66ofHPjK7yYYs7ruHnOAnaqfR_yDv8mA5VaAGW1iVBs-1OgG_qmaxqbB7rFHlhAJScn9IhWXzhwqN_CngND_qPuBE95ljfD1OmoTq_An6dFayTZFN5-KgBbGJfwi09tAeaCA35GbvGmfS5GKtc2gWW6vFZwbFMBFykSWV79SnJF0HONo7jUpU687zKuxBBrIp6Rz=w800-h453-no)

I used 1/8" thick extra soft resilient high temperature silicone foam from McMaster-Carr for the defroster flaps. The stuff is very difficult to make small cuts in, so accuracy is key. I cut the foam larger than the flaps because it's necessary for them to actually seal. They are about 2mm larger at each side, and about 5mm larger at the front and back. Put basically, I cut a hollow rectangle of the proper size with rounded corners so it would fit onto each flap in one piece around the molding lines and then snapped the retainers on top, which have teeth that hold the foam in place.

I found that the ETR switch probe wire from the manual air conditioning dial switch won't reach up to the top of the case where the one from the automatic system is supposed to enter. So, I decided to drill a hole in the front cover for the copper tube from the manual cover to fit through, as was intended for the manual system. However, the inside of the automatic case is reversed compared to the manual case--just inside the front cover of the manual case, the area above the heater core is covered with plastic, and the copper tube goes over this and then goes down into the evaporator through the open area above it. Just inside the front cover of the automatic case, it's open above the heater core and closed off above the evaporator. So, I had to drill an oval-shaped hole in the covering above the evaporator for the copper tube to slide through. But, the angle was wrong, so I had to carefully bend it to shape--which is not easy because it's easy to kink and having the probe wire inside it while bending is a must! I eventually got it to fit and used tar-impregnated cork tape to seal up the gaps and insulate the tube.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/k76ebt7reWEwWd-RjCAjP2P_xfUeRcQIEJxjOOY4FcAJVbMjwofAlObTLxb29SHo61LeGGfwpWDUfOGXfS-j6GlmPpk7-UUzknrL--YWMOAV89qDizfZLJYlA8jHOHFXW56oJgTfUNcNwWzyxK0vNI208LZHLnpAjPwqdbyTwK1_p00Dh3p_tcL1ao3Jr-uTc-r4UawQtQ3HL6xuDmkfW91ht0u1VSXA_yB610zf3gQ4CNtdsCaoc2ykM8B-3Ra2JKOMgriLcjgurl9eLtWB_7FG6ZarI86gcb2o8i4hjuOWSifnJ4t3gCL63WQN5bIJOn_UsEWGhoHjy7EOP0F4zjmSUCRr7_celitqphZ-3hu72KAOdExk_jnbfC2pu4JH80x24YFJhLcoUaS1qmpu2J7xOHzuol66HgqYg5wLD_uzkubgPYPvFm8W_wn2uW0DpdDhaq5ZoHpoOygbbX42oO99EfA6yXbotC4M1s1AmJpZE8zquDrd3YXBX90h-ear17Qc4KGI-Byn3y_JaTIAd5-XbA5zinxF2sGXN5GlYJ4TIBiNwI2_Mv3fzbbA-w7LZGIyXQO43eQlyUqHL5jsteb7NtjSzvrho9bjkuqaEQ47UnGjXn8YmuyewCab4h2TLAhydy3Mgwi3y3YjIfjgNIZR7f2zozFg=w800-h453-no)

In order to have slider controls, I had to use a lower flap housing from a manual system. But, in the manual systems, they have plastic covers welded over the flaps, also known as "blend doors". I have no idea how you would remove the blend doors with the plastic covers in place--maybe it can't be done, and it certainly seems they weren't designed to be removed, anyway. So, I cut off the covers for access to the blend doors. Once they were cut, I carefully pried on the side of the doors in an effort to lift them out. I was so afraid I was going to break the plastic. I used a heat gun to soften the plastic, but on the first one I got it a bit too hot and it deformed a little. Fortunately I was able to heat it up and bend it back.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kxa9hATNreanbWerKvQCSdgxmAGbxcjWJ3EqbiGuxVe4Ldhg6dP29wnn5y7hJHC_UJqbRxEt1XV_H8rYAp2mIaCgs73S4k_AJJuo6DrkIDAyx8NGKTcNgZrYqT3UHrAdauHRyIpmXIsGLSXweDr9NBq3Nw0jnrjR-ZFIWTBfc9oN3Fh_bDugxrZ6mtKMCV8f9Y3WgC0kFXppeI58zgFxmyoIkGWl6EiHjDcDsjP3bfl7uGc2ZufS1uOKkW_hRQJzeos5sKKQrmPsVclug57XlTuSSlYYq7eJS-tx9UXfTleYenuNCwctu-Tz6iLrnOQnpmfFgxMFISCBu0VgHs-aEjZbWd1WZxI64xI1Xmya6nxl7vzXyjLDEFkpiBnH_LqcwfH3PIBL-G-gm-j5nq8JcC9-tJH-Sr645ncmPj0DYl3BeCsbEjR80ULTnNZQh27G1_92uK5fOWytubSLpJPGqCbWohsXkIYOq_Cb2nGehuYVJ5AciLBKf0gEJYvFiJPqclwJteVtxVb4hk6YNAJDXLPGEG-vzEAcqZXRq1_6Vl2KYW_oDJarq5CiPro_BFcAVvSIFTfgNnkTAYpvpKOtjy6DLDEtkqQoKA6Rav3BPGfpjbayiOGmo3Zm7ShLHTTO_Hg1MEQvkfy4O52ovmPkv9yEGs-k32vh=w800-h453-no)

Once I had one side lifted up, I was able to angle the door and then pop the other side out of socket.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/n_msOdGfES4JqqEJsrnwDW_Qq6Hv1GXqQ__A3Vaz3kI8TALfYPbywHb-kvej5wwBwAkZFfHp0F0veZBN7mNHAxImG7FVOZw3BHub_nJCvZZv6jLbMtGn61ZGbtMO5wA89o7eFvoM6qIHSBmwJrsHz0Zxy4-30ELPQBO5bh2TLB7JNFruG_egSlPgwcyqJKxu-QjOWI8ZmLVYbIbmGXHU0_7UMUoSCCP4chyma_T-YnM24e9_hyfYN9xlac55ypW6x2Cnhb_2trQo3bcKdfgWkb5iDNIbwKnlK6HZwzLBJSl3UIZKuaosqKVsN7w9VVZCwKfQU81ax1jtNYLrSz7iWVuIasDZs0fJXXrPbAnLMa6hQ-vvQqh9kGD4MvszPPScmopzyXCcRWncCl3QAB1bE1fvaJciktNvFa2gEh6Y7g1CAtAMPKQzGG_0oGW2d8Lxk-VLLg8v7-D26EbtVoj_XbkqlC5tt-VB2w3epn86l2YkqFkYb3BgYUvu3FciYF3_choHCL42CAhW4hMOb-5R93MgtbOgFLRCvGHiD4Cer6z3-xKwjS0pnrbzYMuJqSd_2ItU7y8TUqN_l_EgTeSesBWZkJqdk8KdmIpfFcfsriCr2gnMiPqFa0gvhRDaW1ZHIB9pJYgzrZJU4wKPKKVLSNCzFXVwhSWQ=w800-h453-no)

On top is the lower flap housing from the automatic case. On bottom is a lower flap housing from a manual case after I cut off the covers above the blend doors and the center partition between them which would have interfered with the large version heater core. After cutting off the excess plastic with a Dremel tool and carefully filing them flat, I brushed some acetone on the cut edges, which made them smooth and shiny.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gjPxSwY-6-FQUJL0DSjDnPyPQbvMCqGJONZy3NS9yKOzqKTqW4fwoIwhNDFz6hfEHnMJoKyAZrpEJE0_Rwpq2I7NI_b80XOrogbh9DDu3LulSUnbB-pKHyLfnzS8DL_6_RVPthVcvqQnAZ3Bdn255A-62FWjuzBnymL35LfxQCALm0DAr-zQGupQ4gooTc4jF2cU1x8x4cjfDP5k9h4TY2zTlyeOAxYyKOa724EyTAVPIdVW18PcZ88G9cdW1flyzwzLNMeW2bKtaD9QjVMIM6tOFPF6DZNxRlwphGmEK4L1AXbF8jfps0IpMQvLfRMvELVn7EqNnJpExK44RyKRSAca06hjJ8B3p34hJACgCt47QccL5nHnkoK9yTzdB3BteD-Bir2nYfICkf3c4ZoMYuDILQSvIDXsc7TyIGIve-jWkANVUnlMQkjRmoDQZxC7c7hwiAtdx_ujKw9vNOhi_LM4Y71Wc9huWGw1vmDM7qEtsFeYeaCHeDvWmT_u7nk_PdtvQQ4XefC6rgGFJufD07qe-74YWOXENafODH1vAR78M9XOHpmSu65d3JQLwKWfLVp-WU_FrLTXvpQDRi5rea0LyakdHO_ka0uPAZ0Jf79Cyugglo7h_opAqQjPYO8DJAdgtwY1z2f2sz9Qi0-Mf5YmHO9yqMqR=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 21 June 2018, 01:59 AM
I cleaned off the old foam and adhesive from the blend doors with paint stripper, being very careful to not get any on the plastic parts, because it will eat plastic. Remove the plastic pivots first and protect the plastic fin on the left door. After this, I cleaned them with brake cleaner (the doors, not the plastic parts). The right side door naturally has a couple holes in it from the tabs that stick up, so I covered them with aluminum HVAC tape. Then I covered each side with adhesive-backed 1/8" thick extra soft resilient high temperature silicone foam, again from McMaster-Carr.

You'll be shocked to know that I've spent well over $200 on a small amount of foam that's barely enough to do this project (one 12"X12" square of 1/8" thick extra soft resilient high temperature silicone foam at $26.81, three 12"X12" squares of adhesive-backed 1/8" thick extra soft resilient high temperature silicone foam at $38.05 each, and one 15' roll of 1" wide 1/4" thick soft high temperature silicone foam with adhesive back at $60.95). I didn't want some cheap foam that would only last a few years and couldn't find anything else much better than what the factory used.

It's easiest if you cut the inside holes for the fin and tabs first and then align it over, cutting the edges of the doors with a razor last after the foam is installed. I tried just doing one side and folding it over the other side like the factory did, but it does not work well with this type of foam.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/o3RfTUn5S0ZH8NWci0D3IRQBv2oaWhUwst1o1T-FSSCxoRPKSuDx7MraKwA2W2VM52lYwULQjUbxTFa4FHekpViF-q-v1_Y0Yo8doA1jjlm9UEmZuVQujAkkd--kzF1KaUhEanHrjMqws52l9C2LiENtAFoEh-lmQAE-mlOmItoNSfrQwwnoVNy3IZnSBBXZR7qHH67Pil2S57y2ueSbiFk-E52xeZg3kSK_B4SuWwZZO-GYvicsuhJCsVWqryadP1xLG0Dy3BCsnDkATCSra-_CmGk_51BIvz1pXd9_KSOzjsFX6i-pUpyKIA6jl2lqMpigkcMdOIuGlaVgeDb8M5Qyi9U6YtTEXYTNUUe-VcVYpCxu8VE55DuatlHAup6LFfm6ZW8G02eNvIXeD2ZCmYJ5BAmsQXWUtrE1hFlIhhPthTka8JoHshKUcEJruKp-2yNwIcE1Wb0GcqK-ubgm6fkfk_jWnqFcU23oCWph1du1_-TuVAqYLREK5Htn3QjrIql-q5Gv6qywgjTZs13lUjpfb9JKdP7p3Koomdh9AGqlYCVY7S3jpRqdTTabt1MHSnfaQSVVZmlXRFjgxNUrLZSptGqmXWjgYcSKyNBqsk8WHKAcwyR2PO4XEN-jHBTOP7l186Y8E62nUG-9Z8MImdbWAm_5pYsT=w800-h453-no)

The blend doors in place. This foam is ideal for the job except for two drawbacks; the very high price and the fact that even the extra soft foam is rather hard to compress. This means that it doesn't pinch down well by the pivots, so it can impede the doors from fully shutting, leaving about a 1mm gap. I'm hoping that the foam will eventually collapse at the high-pressure points and allow for a better overall seal. At least I won't have foam blowing in my eyes while I'm driving and it will be a vast improvement over deteriorated foam.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Z9lP446weqHaf0vISWuDH_4TL-hZtJi8c2KVChC9XWnYW-n7Ey-1NZL5Fw5a-_eWBgLVzNANp4oRLJzG4ASlzD508Fm4InL2wqWiyQftG0lqVPAVCkVmpKSZMt6EmIrQao95UIilbmWfPTpHP-0wHUBYdAgvgvayLKAnlMvjmcSpJxoIQdTcF83rwGyPwiZ1wOy-TEeAirrxrz1LEexgUP8ZIwgXhWHz3YNK1Vvew6awIBZYCAAxuE6o3gAyEbSFUYrJwha5WuYMEWJD7f4Elcje9PCYRQjmBNZ1pVvNfN_ckE7LdzTUMX5sIzsD_ejbfahzmu81FThF6YSE16-0mo5T_cGA5trmYY-3vvail2V5EW3N-EQxFo0RpTDog7-wo11BHfQA7B1kormz9KcTjdYAw8fDRWZ6rReyLi0GGsTWHEnj0PVWYZba78IyB1P5TYeRORym1U8rL-LIINksgsPhEJWg3UhSpC_Hv3IHc8SpdOLFarK-aRee9f3MgLEtRTQdHWe2pcaRA_gRxbU1bNG_rZ7nGlouBYWCVgad5qUrSsaSFZyw2KpLWijuGlRFHxiBEISOgBbNXktGJZ_8ar1rfFe36HOkJuUORda95fOVYkiqtaQjKV_IjIGSLJedS-9JXRGrBD5eiGZrFpUV277zi9v1yShM=w800-h453-no)

The foam squares under the lower flap housing are still available from Mercedes, part number 107 831 01 42. They also fit the R/W107 chassis, so that explains it. I attached them with contact cement.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iPqRCF4tVKiTgigolHssxECj2dslWpUT48qoWPw6XZhfCD8ruYo2rTuKZjh6a8CRuoPDGsZsCQNnNSeI1IKDxww5sOlqbQLZwbsYrUvnKEBlqWHIheZrZFpcAXnkeWsUQuD2DVdz-82EU1M0E9zTneVz19aJxf88yrIBVMEqmCj06ergbQgipPNunFxyxP4GROYCgkTVIAzGOndosCm-Sk0CozG_bdegNrSG7s-YSEtFns9jEyD3Q4jAejIVF689aPUPUnESTogapCKQSE7k8W7ADQb39xWnLka2ny33L61n07f4LENp9rGPvWjtFXwkj5ylOlvVOK818oSUGwKJRKcjS26Yz3vtTpITyBjAcqT-uwWWoxFn7wh-BUlRDWNQgsmXrRFhuZpTWqiPSIxJC9Bmj8ZT4sO6ch_1lHac7g28leJMtelHSOKJza1GzIw0Oatzfasa4xpTbK5lfL_ySJZ-gLat1EaWRgZcM9WPU6Q8lqdbsRvV9e9tGQtUHUojTQq2LjctSHMZyz2FLcyUfAbMbueBCGbtG99ufZXMR--m0nc41oIxFnAbUtAWvKpE6uhlRQszSQ3D7MNknlKrOyLNaUzBCMyqyp64jhr-wzVbkq71S3R89ZfDZWVh6rXmj6YL5MgGozTch-xhbiuC4L_0ZfOFtNeM=w800-h453-no)

The 1/8" adhesive-backed 1/8" thick extra soft resilient high temperature silicone foam that I used around the heater core was too thick for the lower flap housing to fit on the case, so I had to scrape it off of the lower sides.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Pg63ZodqhBqvTxqq0SYulg5vgw5SvE0GZb_rf6CIbezJtR9IbSDusHCeFLw9uUrt8-EU-TuEGfH_zICDpIPS9bJQO0hlHnAduHi6f5arVzhHltX-wtZ-qHgjPws2H7Vi0XKAUH5auzit0SrF6_HHm_LEn2XQhuhaY14K_aFQJHXg9cYpNKV9XE2xSac7UikhHcNpo-12J4kSqfmdNRhjAiLXjDAEwo9zcAFqjVyvDtCxOrgPnWKO7BhIG6bWuL9seDLWIa7grar4Qrt4-wgoxz9BgYB7AICaxQHMQW_dWNY53FfXXV42J91W_44YgQvn1aT1yP-8zTCc_YkP2newIlDSDGUg_5wCmUCBQ_N9Zng-mo1gBq7K6KBFJSB0M7sfe3XjVmwsFT3VjEHCGV1oSj8-mvoYG58pELUdE9BFPWJ8s7U_6_36R-Ky0-FpF2KH1ZwWJy9tBAdMcsu5TLXmlZqrF8s-wFpsrXTT1BMneHwFEiOMsnx9iWemSTBcRMlITsVb5DEwkTReZQV-xfUN-QvnfRY53Buj7QniPZn1h5ovkvFCB-O1TNi_mb4N5RnRCpsxx9Ze05pgm5AGBf1d56PZ5dD2aLcKYT-O7k4xFG3VTTmPSi5AH3ZBvSQ4E7E7rEIyp_rfvyaXsiJRi7d9t5YsXmYaG4D5=w800-h453-no)

This was my first attempt at sealing up the lower flap housing using Mercedes non-hardening sealing compound, part number 001 987 56 46. It is similar to Silly Putty.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3bqQ07XKQNQ5xj6XFownGRaQSN0xtKP5Qfw_yxxmJphhja49c3J-59gLoU4R3C6hoZgycip_FE7C02kL30MavrM3n5jJ9awPS8UFxXAwHTWWzHK2-xKKAfWvdhPHm4RstAJfD0CTtbmkER4MyEaw7XxuCj698Ec9Rk33WGWY67y6CZwm0xrnKq7fBIdglCjYYkgiNo02cFlKci_ge89HbI3ziYu41TvE6d-WOCZG6STEFfqiKjEh7Xo7diMof_22ZLMKFAUtMT4rMY-HonoXhYqj-bHQXNQDD2lDDyOH_XGtCdFvh6KoFiwIO0FvjWV_aMNW9ugtCrwIYEVTeRggVqaWTSLApNvdEcsLDjmHj5nYhLuZtLsqYm0z_A_wpQOdVMHxn5HXndQ9cvG6K7rDxQukTIQHwfbOLNqKLEsuBpwy9XMv5pc16qWZNR5ce8gGEVhK_AqO6pUTSuIpqRgmtowfib22_TV6sozA061WMTjY9CSIaVwD3wPILTv5GwUzvqWlD6c7MBeg9Ml6Sr2LCWGidlDhggPg7NjmfSxDw4RcX6Nhs5sZc9SuaVZe9BM96Tc1I12vKJBaRClBqdyzMDi8XpXg7nvjCj2oXiX3tJ92r3058d5OXCMlocagvZUOi9Up7jow5k8p_Y5Sl0HKz40clnDdI8aa=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 21 June 2018, 02:28 AM
I found that I had used too much sealing compound and the lower flap housing wouldn't fit correctly, so I removed it all and installed it differently, and much thinner this time. Fortunately, it's a very forgiving substance which can be reused.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dLH5ytKQTge0zvrAONLMgmBlNsl55gBDemxIorqHWf7Y5nn8lKglzSrd3NmXQsHoZGyg1AMCNniP2kw0r8xZvBjfcJQ9Vu-DTw995avyeh_Dt--7Arvc7sq_AJCD_PvRlnqBDwwKe50KXrHNSxJSNfGeLnTHldG7B83QLmppnylAKETVQ5JgnTWcEt62BZacqLPncxZ6ds7Z91_xzNAGSXuCaun0JRxOQJHb0eT8LWm3cK67LAslwU-NSR1BhMl-SRG_ujQsJ0qavYiC4amgLSROHQaXTmW-Oa-lWQ4g0tIz_AVnt-oQUbPPO4YGiX2xR4s6GSLS2tpnprm9TJvX6TFJ4V49TeatpGMj4UnhR_o1omCEep6puUxJtOKF-L6R6lyput-stpI8ZyQTgGDA1MFeDSB8PhBKxJW5mHMlyEoo3B5rlfsNZRF6NBPm1g4gAnVKN5YDu89qa2wrqh3hV00vomlazrM73K7_N22qwR0h-RKk6w7DHeWrqb-0blicODqeerBTBH5sGJn2nU9NP-KrzBvE_ao5wdwEkxp9g0LqJZH7oeWdiNAJ-kGaSYRf9iIbR6dRKn0QUjP5fXaO55SV8OD6QyWGAyxeZEkRlPxzpCHM39jukhgMEMefHhrwEiut4voa5P4G2nl65kk2vTUic7yaMz4l=w800-h453-no)

There is a little gap on the sides when the lower flap housing is installed, so I used extra putty in this area to compensate. I also used a heat gun and straightened out the warped front cover so it would fit better against the lower flap housing.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/E170naXcNIYpaR9_l6m3inhej5V5J4mFBwL-13ttSwSBOo2-v5MI25pvxiFIFhmH-_IHIoqGf8HbUC-I4NybCSPkwyFEm91WeceD0PNFkIlelriAXqHDJ6a8dbQLpEZCOCvhWFY0qFDNnVNQUBN4cr8P8o71hVs6sHZ5DzTgwTIPjfbZ6T0lMLv-fGzmFR8qfcockyOVJZieyWOMCL8AUfdt8qmr8ACp7iXGZAA0NFQFgdavxiLbK5uKykIfjfQYws33VooxV2rRYK80wlx-O0ACRGRmxH7Slsx-CtWwL8TWirpJCAkqMHnrq-lPDySb0m9jE-t7zZBnQ9tqiJ5Z0exy0fNX-n8pfiEC4Mk5AV8Gd3m8WQ5Acq_Gd0rEFy0bC0JQrJWoTl7pjrwMnRfWQWTwM1wbzCLoRvS4tBmOxh7q25vCpy06nigsGdBvI_nXQvwYaf44EwM8zkRPsM7tNvEasJopVNGmBOZorrEBIAAqEuvkCvvDCFEXXHyuLIVoSni0PXh4dl_wulXGhFr4jp6OrjZHOAAU5jBdTFQYAlX6wpNnoWzK5TyeLgNxYbPL1W-tXI_NYSijiaZcPhxW0DOj2KU5MZ2hq0C2fWzoYj7zVkRTFuXvpi_-k_rvYVXht8yoZ2DYkNri6ngmvJ7DxZTpUGG6romR=w800-h453-no)

A much better fit now. Before, the clamps wouldn't slide on very far. Use barely enough compound to seal, and hopefully the excess gets pushed into the grooves.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/eaMlFFatP3p3xOVaUddBKcQrNDUTwGOoJNmZwTGLGkF5Z0fAaBQoh52bwfkN3gKnGFhcjYQex4NeAhYLIJozYl9uBqxAz3INcKxx39DuwOzBBaD_D40cqcOk88UaBG2171APT9g_I9ENFyKtNUha7K3IUU_kULZhPXH-BgeR-ZEkQ8G3kOJTxZnpmhkuRymSa-eIlmkRFz6HDbd1Bs6bHalGsPy2AQFZWgO9qug2vVfZRv8-8X5RKTRV_8v3fiGIL6droq8rHgeNnOc47EpiqCrjWFLwNBvzUHzrQkmixe_wUkB3sm5ADoMywuSsG0sTD8aTBkHMUKRSGScha48HZab0N5fTeVJrHFh7GRgPVH5j4HVBoVCt2Z_oRKIgkc2jnpghxv6Y-uToUu_jZtE5BOw_Hk8vMYN4pfDhw9vRzPxBVuyPi9lJByhApSGf-1bWf23BRPtLRCFIJOA4K6BZ9cwQJioQlrc0uLxUJ468Q6_Eyo2WCvv4KM7wddIlZz_rhJEAzOQdySvwzRp0puD_61a5-Nn7bmUnqhcUJAFJNciE1L7XNYoQjJinreVVYk5JE37uGKsnOi4cRh6koFciqEYyIvhsMIttu5Gy1nXgR0SX5MIQyh996Treu7ibRAFT0l2IcWuqI0xcoXO19a4ENOjIhOMPO7YP=w800-h453-no)

I soaked the slider controls in Evapo-Rust, but it removed the paint, which is unusual. So, I stripped off the rest of the paint, cleaned up the metal with fine steel wool, and then masked and painted the controls in semi flat black paint, trying to mimic the partially paint-dipped look.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/SVN226G4yBnnH9Mhc7JKik6JaXZzjNEVG5LP2Nuj_SFxncHiLQkwBfUCHb89J-XEoqcfDoUnL2SwhrWLpwgE92mULW7L-SCUgfeLDXoa3XkO6jP0VQDu7EV_Sfm7Ph_buvqCWnUM_nJjk9buiyJd69wYLPORUWplIjAH6gaeH1LtH60fQpy_UGk_hAmmRuFi92LOrI3WhjIDikGYx5UbFYaHGlfj5Dx2kkXcTr5L3OMk3Xxm5tLFBkftRGwcAZsrYA0d3K9fhLbc5HvsdJH4DB1f4YNNOz9h7D6vKJ-_a0G04zbR3j4YLq3joOvhYBfVQxh38yiVyHb97Dv5kWrd2jHBz1BgQ5wGYjXO5T-_uov4a3nQUWjpkr7zlb1nWCpafoFCIYReb4PrNwahH4SDz_y3W69amB5_29CMGvKlfKOmKxjwwHj3EzRBSxLebw2vd6CDjlL0QJ-NMKEel6-8HT_lYABmTISqagLE3F_zPOMj9gN-2HZfnww8TVJPLwj99wq4OZO1kPwstqwhiLZ2QGLfKHVTYUhYMEk24VTvoRG_WncEtXcoiUzrcgFAiOG7YVQHHk9JAOuNzNIrmNOyGP6UWFtBPoXxvqXclz2UNQi7u-IHK5u1V-2P6MQh-yXnfL0vxZ5WOt2pUdxChZh10gvAE9EKs5GC=w800-h453-no)

Fitting the slider controls was tedious and I had a problem where the defroster flap cable kept popping off of the slider. In an effort to correct this, I tried bending the tab on the slider and it broke. So, I removed a slider from another unit and painted it. The metal clip that holds the plastic push-in lever in place was loose, so I flattened down the "rivet" against it a bit tighter. I'm really hoping I don't have the same issue with the cable popping off.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/DlnqNH5SIbz8UsftLkb3n7-gPKqPnh6a4HBjR5X1EXUP0dZpWw2xNJeKGfUH5k6z7-tkuCIhCHuhD1LY9CJOqCO_owCtn4xazAiEtCmtRRtw2EEbztjqUgrt0k7V6J5yo_eeVxN_C30L0VEkgfKR2ubN-ESfr1gKyqsasaRq4hoXS8hkCkN_XPubt4St1L7lzI0VDpfXQm8dRgqwXHQfcfhrIu5_Yy9rKTMtw_AbIrhS1AwQpGnEcAucY0870DIbQLxiwLJ21BDoA8ejK8rA4Fyx0OZ_qNEtJ_t4dg3U2-0AmCNhxV9bbc3rw2pL17LQALtIW8m-gv6tFUo_SBLaNayiBdL-XUAoWfz73KRZ1Ex5hqrle2gQrMUPRAmWVGotrPIi_Ow9C1UztPPL0MuscW9HConj_sYsjXVRf63ic5U_TCQAfs0XFnnsS62m4MaWes7EsR6IUpO1nM4UKLgdnE05tYtdIEK_KjQSQ6gPuleKTogy31F5FUEyIL7tKFsON_NC2SBQUJZdeOuRuPDBjdGXhRveHNa652D7fDcVO35gfgg0O_Af6bGftGvmKyNFx5YZh_NL1KOqACcqyDIaoMRTuI960W0aGSyIh8c-QzH5vEpykbCmeSUPWxbdXt6n1jABYNuBHvDUQPs7-y7U2I5vz4haDEDB=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 21 June 2018, 02:49 AM
Partially assembled climate control case.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/WTLsgOlB71HbiEOL_W245vnausu1cQXImAr9auF2DTBdom4XQKAIysPel8ZnPfKQ7oCnd2Y0nJ5DNJEyPg0ZKNwOEH7j2K1kzg9eWdpqssHuSjF4aJD9w0ETl6h_OezGYxqFaJBVMDl2lNtZsBdahLMmV2mLu1_AIRn3xrRezdw7l_QxS1HWY-qpsWGln_lFw5iQ2ywYQe2aY2h9l6xS6RLrYsQ2V_ID5bA11uTwg84n7VSiPy0Zxyf6QTQEtaHNPLTJ-0Afn6g-fMLPH4wl9FpZzI1oM0g_em2djkwKm5zy-ySSmpUzQQR1T7-LZ0m59i4TLhuGvr_rGAxGUcghYFfzz4eszhN8Vawt-QDcfMfsJZ4KXCT9bgiPSkJNTcvwFDRyItE0zgC4_lWXsMbmyMeIzsHjITL-K9ZGvpcW0wlySTmTUulfyGOuAQMVYoOfV0rXEKBTNWBOAOgoZRAtf7sV-Tvpb6ZSuPh5s9nDydV24N7wFPFphkY1hNhjRG9DWPnW2bXkh3MJL7u7X35aQWJGDo3200MhB4QU1J0_9-A3Gv_N2_n1i4jWbDDuVw2oHU6P_qWtyWJOYSaSEUFqAxfBz3sXtCZoo0sxs1I5ktgzOT7z5ULp9AKBVm_PWme5MKm-czyErZT7CmEtftqnVn1tG6uLRD1S=w800-h453-no)

I noticed that the boot that goes between the climate control case and the blower motor case was dry-rotted and cracked in one area, which is strange because the rest of it is nice and supple. Unfortunately, it is different than the ones used on manual climate control cases. It's part number 116 831 07 88, and while it has an affordable MSRP of $53.00 from Mercedes, it's no longer available.

So, I tried repairing it. I bought a can of Rustoleum Leak Seal (rubber in a can), and sprayed over the cracks. The sealant sprayed out at high pressure and was messy. It ended up going on way too thick, had bubbles, and after I let it set for a while and thought it was dry, I picked up the boot and it cracked. Fortunately, it was the Leak Seal, not the boot. So, I rubbed off as much Leak Seal as a I could, and then used brake cleaner to get the rest of it off. I tried spraying some Leak Seal in a glass jar, and then brushed it over the cracks one coat at a time. I think it worked!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-J17vgOz14F5UOABKqQmArRLGxtq6EpwZzW73s1F1WFfiuW8tNuO9dN3QDbkQsDTJmBXfDACwwOS_ubHfIayCklYjX3dlw_7Tc7WWyEdoLmeSzymcMlDO2OHbC5cGhKkTA6RkIb40_IymAwTd7KxsQwcGqg0YMzxypB0vcIvzp5foPszPqlkRXKcB1iWOdzeOUMmnCgrl4Wn-srIL-Ya026GrNu7ynwzvPJX3KMN4L61l40tDUi9l1zuSnkF03MgPilTs_25oAApfFGcfjZBCyum0cqUTSZcQSaHfBZlotlr2Pe0GaVbysyaMG49BIbRTmnTk4_HCfmA8_KFn3c7MkzfvrNAD6fIdpUykP1bF1ZHG5ubxlEJ0mdXI4x9N_LGc3Kso-LUI_Mcndz1okFNpq1Uh8yB7VodxSLmcEXMbWgEEQ3NFqcafSZCXTZjtonRT_uYm3A9yM611PJYbWSKZTj2pG7XkOvVRbEN2kh--etuvmQzuU3HahiNbv7K3TROXTwj6KBc7O85CFZDPtnOOy04kE6UaOH9jOD9wrvzoAsfOXVB789MWE-NLCXOFFe_kOWlKVPceBwTFEBNql0c8-rBZWFGjeifNf0YUOYAvyqP0zhh44kFkSreJKbY_cKXRUQW4XckX-yRDSKeNtFP7PEDpEYj6M3v=w800-h453-no)

I installed the boot with the clips and some M4 0.7mm X 12mm long black oxide hex key socket screws, which threaded into the press-fit nuts which I had installed into the case. The uppermost screw is tricky and requires some flexing of the boot to get the wrench in there.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XGgxz9o7v8LJIr3JrbkP77LAm581iR7Uu_dm2fvLYeP8AzeHcFAuCfIU5Km2fbUj0-ITQV194IJnV6hXoONHCTN3HNKZk-HbSwCHSIKX_Vf3Ynz0v39X9SIel9b0LPwMrLIrvalsU4mnn37lgkTUbuq-BVH0tMit0p6PK1BPYLQXcE_yjqo6tqLSB2H6tvWBcg6CygyzAfiGh3xZka5ziMIEaHNpRsJTbw1xt6Sfp3_9m6-TF5VqetDIzOjA4AbvmaeUlc7MNxp32x7SGNZcpVU4ODeKdR6XJE_tqb644TpnFKIicze-gac4xBkzSt5yT6gv-XwXgRLwefU-lytoyE80mgRM1NDy5BreVBVeVIeGEyzfk5BI4wE3v7JcMywC89LlQCB9xNPoZz0sI2wh88nNuOz7Z9FNgjksLfMHyDl7saBbC66YoA5HZavjbPI-kKTulU3pJoBSmWI8rFAlJVnid9i_xubbcr1ekr2GfHgs26gXOhPXgHgg0NlRqBBDU6hYg9Sn2cAIBgnw8ThafYgLWQOX3qmIuN1LvfusGSu6Lx-Ouwbm0jHCpAOOLYuRCBNl2-wiepR4ALHUYKlRB1xE67FBFKT6XBj8cRdBuQb0Il8WAfEmNMzvcWVno7Z-vhUbfI1C4Z73iZew_GJv61eR1zauCmPo=w800-h453-no)

The same is done for the other side and there is plenty of room for the wrench.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/oMjllZlF1f_o74Yd1_T5H2zJs2XS2tkAbJb2LztQ1uf6HVxw_u8FH94mYoMsuM8W_RRL7xVdsAPcT_NilpETPQ3wOurW9j946L87L46aBBlQfA1u5naVw1W6dPlPvIfGqKj2P6DdqK5qYhqDSQsxKI1QR-9wHaeJXJWSv4lSOTvm9MN0fqURl_HbyqOHtp1EPvV2wToz7BZbRxpblXMKlhv291ILaVeyiRk5zzD0v4y4lQf7r5gHGgtIFlE1Bbb26fjG7QqwOS51UCEFZYTd-srzK39C7QmKnIN2eSKBhOIJrRfjzRI8Zx4nuefzndfDYnLOBsg-wacA4TiNuEA-0tbxzxRAstKdwuchRlNrR6Sg4qjQ-bzK6dReHsYNjeO0oFK2NfdJQdfISTvs3G3H-CGdl0n4uJUKNwaP9gK57iOY2o04k38ldyZKt_Tpa4Q7tGWkEZocFkSm8HOh0f37NnT4yLlBxgXrKGaoTsngTnZPgjLuBpgbaDV6X7CC6mpiMbUWjq1zVcdmPnDTdkXp3zqn9gIX-vW_oKghbb9MW5kUoo-FQa7cw0t4AQZNw5h605B2zzMKRbERF-5ZgHIiAhMbJL1Ic5_H38zu_R8lzBfpt-TeSz3751H0y3WulO1pMS9fk61KY0xrEIKnAzHYVlTVNQtTqLYn=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: ptashek on 21 June 2018, 07:19 AM
Is it just me, or is the US retail business market just one huge collection of - for lack of better description - cowboys?

Whoever I speak to among friends and acquaintances in the US, has all those same horror stories of terrible customer support and experience in general.

It seems like a systemic issue.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: raueda1 on 21 June 2018, 08:38 AM
An absolutely amazing project.  Congratulations on it, sounds like you're getting close to putting it back in the car.  Looking forward to the next chapter!
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 21 June 2018, 11:16 AM
Is it just me, or is the US retail business market just one huge collection of - for lack of better description - cowboys?

Whoever I speak to among friends and acquaintances in the US, has all those same horror stories of terrible customer support and experience in general.

It seems like a systemic issue.

In my experience, yes. I have found that in most cases, customer service is full of aggressive, angry, and abrasive characters whose motto is "the customer is always wrong". I was working on my roommate's 1960 Ford Truck (which, like the W116, is completely overlooked by parts suppliers) and found that the parking brake cable Dennis Carpenter sent was several inches out of spec. When I called customer service, the person I got was extremely rude, skeptical, impatient, and would say things like, "Invoice number! I need your invoice number!" I asked if he'd be willing to check another cable they had to see if it was the same length, and his response was, "Nope! We're not doing anything until you send back the part. Then we'll go from there."

I've found that customer service anywhere tends to be extremely poor other than in the case of an exceptional employee. I always get the impression that I'm bothering and upsetting them, even when I'm as nice as I can be and try to get straight to the point and communicate effectively. I think the social culture in the USA is declining. People are so self-centered these days. It's a far cry from how it used to be.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 21 June 2018, 11:18 AM
An absolutely amazing project.  Congratulations on it, sounds like you're getting close to putting it back in the car.  Looking forward to the next chapter!

I'm getting there, but I still have to do some welding in the firewall, and I am a very inexperienced welder. I'm going to have to start working on my car at night because it's getting too hot in the garage. It's already been 111F and the constant sweating is getting irritating.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: kjenkins on 21 June 2018, 05:56 PM
     Keep up the good work buddy. I always learn something from the work you do and this particular project with your climate control is nothing short of incredible.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 21 June 2018, 10:24 PM
     Keep up the good work buddy. I always learn something from the work you do and this particular project with your climate control is nothing short of incredible.

Thanks! Soon I'll be able to drive this car COMFORTABLY in the Phoenix heat. This is my seventh summer here without having air conditioning in my car, so it's past due.

I got the spare defroster control lever cleaned up and painted to match the other three levers. This time, for whatever reason, the cable popping off was not a problem. I think it had to do with me bending the loop of the wire at an angle so it lined up parallel to the lever. Unfortunately, I was trying to bend the plastic shield slightly and the pin broke off. I put a drop of acetone on each end of the broken parts and pushed them together. Then I brushed acetone around the outside and the pieces melted together. It is repaired and seems as strong as ever.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/FmT6TGECTqDOtJS_6ny32j5v4VJgK8MrgG6Jj79ul4a_m-4dq28KPT0qsG4Z31-6DpszQpmA2lg-rk6FVoZQWR7SygaN8WFH2Cxh3Cenkkolsb2aX4EmOXfLHom8pM7_206OhHCk3u7y1nCI9OMyRakDvm5LrD02nBg-kDPYl81R32HslNPlcQSJlM8SgpuRh0bal7VkiVrQFFt0a8wJl9SwIA7uoRZdmW2sESocaKDios1ng4zkRC_NyvgE_WUf59MS07FnUryPnUS6mVjGJwdXADzaQ_KD80dXCU5n0pJf_d9of08wgo0HfewrO8BQgr4Cy5-s8IRJ16eiDodocgUTsn6JcBYG5WgFUF1wEHSuQ2V1FXQJL4Iykqu5mOPlgeD_2zdcPdh2dYMiNF5gVqAS4FKVKHyFSlvv_okZkG2chgww_jjjGz6nrsP06k-Tq_TtfRk-mCDhVpwYp1kL1jm_vXYZe3QU6xHtuFrCO-o89gGnexXXPJpAYGKvP2cFg80kVxQ5oLxhDb2ZIR6oLtBc2qX838VSJFr0jRANumz27FlJcvvSg8xZddXAwZOP1FhtrIwPg2LLUXvg4j5wML9nHlB5pk-bJOdLhR46o0ocHF37nix9PyX8ufoHrfnM0NhQ8QJQ5jvtZNmI-R2hkPzhGEmnp1Jw=w800-h453-no)

Here is the custom climate control box with the control levers in place. The heater valve is opened and closed by a little vacuum switch on the far left and right. It's funny because only a slight movement of the lever moves the switches as far as they will go and the rest of the travel won't do anything--originally it was intended to move the inner flaps which would have controlled the left and right heat level separately, but I'm going for simplicity.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/aWj1c2LsIgFGHUGB1f1YkHjfXdtTTBQkOUHkzNPRzhfL2HdtG8wSNx8-k7FF6WvFbxq2qoT0fHZORAZD-1iCHhTIkSj_tg1-5yac5_bdzHvOhT_vmbNtiNw59qrDQLYMfmgYi3Vf0ykt1ETPapKtxAQ8WRPfyonP4kCrw5PXUA0X-0b9H7WLlbPw_DMxefRMmeYvqfdCUwalfSihVdFDeO6RXxexWdST2EqNwSmllk6Lk4nFEXs1lYdlm45Bvy9Meevn5UCXcf9EC_HDWsTzookYDEueAp-6iV3tOx9Q2PgTy_-JpImol-KPqFmyhzHhMD5T2u9DAH2w8ERJzOfzpCvVqzqHQRdRNC1MXCnibAcrsmnaWZyhzM6SGkje8tjDTmFaVDm1QJFruEatFhSLKGwrY2IWdzvGTKo1nkXYvueHX5RbxkVE7tPdNG5Gw1gStPmYwnCVylCSYzauvP5vXWpgPJGFpTAMU13ZNqkMuPvb-XZi5Cgc3Lw-p8mEGeBb8hpcM-Z_vnW_iC1l2_bt_ddh3akJ6DJhNadQPy4zDPNOZVsRkbBk-XZRjude-Y1OBIx3MiMQxXujV0CwqUvm1J3POKvWf5EhS2qNGnpqAya7hTx3_MoqeHkoFdWS3ZEXftdytPyM978twZC7qQJaU55Rt-UNpwMv=w800-h453-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/paNTYQM-2gTau0yTg5D3TCGhTY4m-lyd3gE_YAY7zDcLr4yDjXvE61ptR3GSW-IJ1K__TSTTQDdbeUvo0XNFCiVjneNjm8q0D12p-pw3GuP1JDhLmTeR-IlE3q8ovzFtCKJxFUFl9UA7oZ3u3TfAgV4cAYb-f5FZietERGWkbs6Qmld1aq-d-rVIjhjgZmua4juvudxYkzK4pqOv85wpO6NNEeK0W8qQ_fLL0NAs3ZF-UDf_A24lEXrjLyOVJ9yg75PiK2Ij6hd3hB4Wn2X-0drJAHuhz4uSSRl_3aaqrxa6vY6SyM2orWULaZxnibt6qsbbVKILiVEXEC4znfh3EjSag6HVDOuISfJYOlJCfz_oU7ql6qFBywOO4GP6gOH31Y9I7gmQH7gNY8vyfY-3gU4BZq2Bao9B-KYap-_xTeXLaG_IUKw8wbqcaQzOdgR1t9k-rpXexnTwu9F0GmH4pGWLE6l9AYgkLrGN2RllmWvI6EkGoBYMDlKKGIv10rU5up6hOjrx_dkj1a3uDfXpgnQSBqxQH_fAXekxybBQv8bz9so3-LCk8-4nwpPTE4QZtOoK9ukLHoAfyuMM9o-HyrAmrfDbjML7YzmQCa7u-EIgZT_s4hYPpUoXv-JdL1bHlhVnM_5uc-P8ZnHL3h1TB9IUR0JLLWow=w800-h453-no)

I can't install the case just yet. Besides having to complete the wiring, I have a rusted firewall to repair. The metal partition that is supposed to prevent water and debris from getting into the blower motor has holes in it, so water and debris from the cowl have been leaking in.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/c9gfnysbHX1-_KCuGq51EsKxKFgsUzpuGjo9dUL9RW-C1fJNJIMkJfWdKgMfqzmBKhRrYoBc6EnuuBujWB-B_6unqwB0U99DpdYcDgKuX0LGHoe-rzV5QREHhxNUmRa6PF_8vn1vVF_ZxotRiXYJVjL6IMiODoUdrHg6jDVZCVSSkH_yW075cG5XFLtb7gFtyE3zIk-t6zgg2LqIvhZu7QqWLH7JcTHkgFT2e0oOGowCr2IHGTJmKkWz-QNTbAVtob7A79NXqp78oPSagkhvSrr1EvMjo_WfDka3mMLXsrSXzWZfZJZPjvVsPR1TAHgUdfqe87QiUdvTUgeQy-8DgYfatra9nNksZShuqzm_s1sd8C1lZWHcNSOo32RKfqRYGUENHaZtFbaWOxVrMARvps9zHZysfG0WGo-6HCY-t638oEirHWActjjXIoRic7HRayiWUo6J9x-bitQg9rzhnXlACtwBFW7-0dv2Fuq9jEfXFVFip4tRTjiDY2VJL4m-hgjY-IhCQMwr8u9cIwU0T-5brWwBt97mOs_pGun2XQFtpDayxwn9u_Lx_E6lI0MTUBisEyxEFOx7rzqBE_JhZ_y9qnjvUQeOTXs0s0coH5rcfGrhLiTLu0us2ZcWoOGZ1VMK4ZyPW7R8eX9YmwiNkSHlapn1eXRw=w800-h453-no)

The 280SE that I bought for parts, though rusty, had a partition that's not rusty. So, I used a Blair Rotabroach spotweld cutter and removed it. I'll also cut out some parts of the firewall to use to patch mine. I'll have to weld in the parts (I haven't done much welding other than making tandem bicycles when I was a kid) and will make sure to use a lot of seam sealer.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/YuwxM9yr3xhEjq6XB8woOvFV-TG2ql4F59YPqc_rpSCUeXTI9s-x3V6btVTYIvMsi3Hg5ZJPdF_WnExJV0Trdlbt_EFRNq8QXVtbSl3__t74s__ULuru7iqKqxQMw4YFUIXh4f2tDSbrBgY9iCzY9EdSKn5Q0mQP4zz2DSZNHTWNAhiiSxKWkUGz15qITt4IRbv5AZ6YPobqpcIveJxcA_IiZ3ZiNzL7Lvvh6ZhkLFwp43Z_gB_i0rbnAt3L9nLLmrAiItM0ex5MYbHtulBD9_RTprmIlSBIeq62Dm7rSsVyJVMt3wx23nGUVYGB15_59IA1zJfOtRxQpzT0INmPjdrZLjyk2IwzFV1R_gSm8M7feD_UXNCzHh1WIieqOSDxcIFgqRrmctZWY3nLg4jWwdug4BnS3oym7QfptXIz8UkMLuX1Wwok5UW_Dh7gzjioruyX4UFLt0WVhsaZVrv0AzyFqelLHFpHswxcNqkDp94O-OM5xux1Ca6p94uPAGSo6oc3Ml8WLsL2cUg6mzrci0wzt3IgxTKI7S2AS2afD2KjaFomq_cA5wH7eDzSm22J48PlWyErzmAdGB4b0XBDFozfBWlHBgy8ph4-6diTYyCiks3I_vJ3ntVdmbwK35oJC4IarDesVIbDNzHoVft2I1rKN-Y3uH5i=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: raueda1 on 22 June 2018, 08:05 AM
That custom HVAC box is too beautiful to hide behind the dash.  It should be on a pedestal in an art museum!
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: daantjie on 22 June 2018, 08:39 AM
Very impressive work indeed!  Also good and clear pics which always helps. nicely done ;)!
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 29 June 2018, 02:22 PM
Look at how rusted the cowl partition in my car was compared to the one I removed from the parts car.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vZpm3OFg4gmt_kC-C7CaqyBGnC80r4qlOFGkCxb4HWLjVV8Yi8AacgkFgIJB6Rs7cWM98-GPVMimAI8tkZxB7W_N8UcX51CzbpeSoMpgmfPZB9vLmX8FNrNwR62Wdsi9kmXN_GrlTwT8e3qpgpf_bxOzXWqbpgJuPogpSGccUTMKSlXmvCEJuQuaU_ycSolmSd5bmO8aDv38kQ3zmDF-M1UPKfUmU66nvHV9naPROzgMTfyz7KvsRWA_-whGAdD969ZgHj4L6i7JB_lnGAwuUMcuyTLQf3jI2Ht4ppXEuuMhH4T3GV08y_cRr9aN2lzpah0LAKsFQ4GFuS27BenTy1Z_T7QTl0BrostqRNGAvntYWk91xqico_VYOmEQ6srp_pPOE9GpF4_rDr6620NX2WtTRsIrtjRSbz9xrht7-Vpys15pjQME-A3MxmdC4z7tTVX4NwNdgnLJxsq9uHG7dsGQYr-a_VeNyRkxNDWjtmXxdExij0l5DMwGPGbBPduUCa_eenDtjCdA7ChNnnXt2-5DOfgAB_p_h-tXHqzcdakSQvUiAZUng8DS8MJAmKClJgKhWCPVR5gKvbx6lV20NG5gg7q2OwpVz7pCbGWEbu3nv8_4ov5LdQuiqeCTMcoWsfXo9M392mJKnScI3pwALSLgS9kAFzEz=w800-h453-no)

Once I had the partition out, I saw that the inside of the cowl had also rusted through. It got even worse where you can't see. The bottom surface was heavily pitted and I poked a screwdriver through in several places. So much for simply plug-welding a new partition in place.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MXEueRX657EREiKGu_tVWxXaPcrWNrW0VyjVDe9VMD2lY5X8uEeMVxov8VaAMEJ-P5J4INA8hNYVs5Cq129U2xvDJvnG4HznLplAaLMX-WSd0FeFFubVw0Q-lGENqSWRmQsEdXbZPigDXomuLv5vBdGaG97pYEUwLWbYbmAj08M-j1dHk7yC6UuhGT4D-XvqU7XEe8cml74IxleRhQtt-Pv_Oc6pUkFdKzEki4d0qbydo85N16JJgPQVzNHisRpDLK0WMe9NWLDptGXtBSxGyAWVrzBsX1yYByrdU1c5V2dbTbHOfRq1sVds4y5-jbX_FZVPUDsoa-GLFfhSRLKi1_dioH89W2SOxwonQYtj9C2KRrTMGckS58biG_SvKCUQVZHGaIFDPVCRLcJEZrtuk8mjNYQx57V-mFn87pqzGxBZo2BsNTKJgPp4NaLISt3Cz8zM16XZlr0--QNzSRoyVs1fZ4vCuGdxWA8qson1-wNpuW2vrhISHm7puzPKO1fF08VasCfkMfduEB-nePBVJEYeNxjngqD4tB9jr9tUx-5UFfrm5n3dfyaTj38oOM6Hh-0TDWDpdAeY3CVCQivdPj_j5OB-m3htHbbacF_wPuyoKWyZfTXaPGty4yYeIjVSMjZVQ7Rv8D9575BdiwTn2A7Txsp1I_rN=w800-h453-no)

I have an 85 amp wire feed welder, so I cut twenty holes in a sheet of metal that I cut from the parts car, and after cleaning the surfaces to bare metal, I tried plug welding the holes at several different settings. Nope. The stick welder isn't going to cut it. I would destroy the metal for sure. A proper MIG welder would cost several hundred dollars or more, even used. I could get a cheap $200 one from Harbor Freight, but then I'd still need to get a gas bottle, which could be another $100 or so on top of that (just guessing). Then with now having to weld in patch panels, I think it's going to be wiser and cheaper to pay to have a professional do the work. It's money I shouldn't be spending, but I'm not going to just J-B Weld it together and call it good.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/atOTjvTmlle4q4Th6XqdGQ--F0j3Vh6bNpy22YiCtiFgSpsut9n8WS4VjknGlLmxrZx1C0Dixdy18zLkyh4COEfoVLKN9swWGhfYwJ4dHA9m1WwShArhOLH4ZXa3xNTLHmdjGsSW4-YXACoXflWAE2THwy0gZPnQviea_QWZMJq2wUAFz5A26cQHKcNlpDIzl6a0JQcxsX43FesfPazkozRG3aRWegXIQElum9ZsOahmRePlCKG2SabpOIRNFfwxbQKRyh96ORQvrltFOBTfYDS40y-cg0fXwmNLqAU8lrFNJIj5q1kgsPinWebcrp4i0YEJDISv2kDA9jW20X7eVoRUq-vMWjw2-c5f8uRbagIji2ikbNWt7pzj-FvdUHHM1lXIAYT_xxyRj9u-O58q2m8jefxeRklM6xdonJE2KfhAB5ADsXxrx8aqsGF0V_g74rOfOX4tRFksnEchiPPmz7FX6PaD0rTtemMeM3AAMG1ARmL9XGtn0HGHvlJUIp8J5l7_uKp9G_gGBP65dBxxYXam0F776lUf3aojipQ_4sgwd9x2FxruFJet4_0df5rEF3QWZEELVh31rTzFGRcq8n5BF11TsJ_dNxyAoAK-iILX5GlsKLz9Te1rClcl67rU2_7189nKp7oGIMV3Zkvj-FuRwYzTXKO6=w800-h453-no)

I cut out the rusted-through and pitted sections of metal. It was a larger section than I had hoped, and there are still about two pinholes and three pits that will need to be filled in.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/FugNNUf2bi97WbbBH7UM2KisIT7cptrCHyBl8mRXANfCT3OnvBKHOytuKgWCCzMIhWWMZtSi7WNu0c7AaMnixdqH0WmR5gE22q--sj45vXWf5zTtyWbvN5K4xpl3BrH52lN5gUIhvAAbYqCCHCMwUw_p0Tx26eg5S5BP-se689H6qUezDeeVbycf4rYQJnK_-qKDQpwxjbBGfEe8vgDbLg7DhR4pF9OUcikGkBE1VgojAB256XWNPdb_cTAvwe2C9CtD2k77J15qiMir8T6Q-z0OyfcFNGKIOsgzbyk8il1eNzbhHPxTRSrKalG5VkgbLhUkDK2YZE626Dj7XSDFFVcRgBj6fYI723K-JzrxS5xUwFqdxAaxmLUUoqFFk4-5yXfuOrLkIg3wFJI_U5kOS4na21XOga5c-ebloRlg_PmXwYFSPN8QikHfgZPQrsMCbxEUfqmr7O14M7UKpTeO6wcyERgr-PZINBcY7wGu9QfcGBCaPFwTM9W0-32l8wtmWsJFDgQRfGDQBHT0zSt6PU8RUeC2GYiD-JrEMfhOEkz0wzixx4XiGzT_Fg98Cqi_nn39ziGQ6ruAlsAzvWRbgBi43BbX0FKfE0G7JsVEnlH0c55ck2pKLspfvAICd0JNCo7qk7FVSc42Ftt7qRjZE1iODBrj0ww8=w800-h453-no)

It looks like it's probably going to cost a couple hundred dollars to have the panels welded in. The area that has to be welded floats about an inch over the right side wire harness that exits the firewall, so I'm hoping it can be shielded enough to stay in place.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 29 June 2018, 02:43 PM
I got the patch panels cut out of the parts car. Ironically, even though the rest of the car was super rusty, this part wasn't. It's a testament to keeping the cowl drains clear. I cut the panels larger than needed and placed them under the area on my car so I could draw marker lines for a guide as where to cut.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vLBMHzqTiT1RxsMOBthe2sSqOykoOUqAX8RVFdvgXOkv9dNNMb5k7MdpFpNXCmiqiIu7Yuv7Rbct7Y2TcHA9d-FrVQuMkqph9gp3OYJ4kAI-THmI-k2JA6azXMEgQRVZjncFTxzvA25wqxXCyMuZw3e27OoV0Xmg1Rqb3pR_oarWLXH7xR4LOmIuIJ0oVTF5V7d7EQyptkbv8giPS0YB1wdvNeA24JUfc7ZdXDIra4v3cdDN7a0G2dY3qmgw6XU90iu5mAlDe-nqPB-C-sMlmzvTTnOjHDl1KyV5CX6EYs0xT5PJxVGX9h3aBkNSGtCY55qEuHEpEjSz1qcksSjYb6-mNEj-Vg1Qhg8FB3cWvt5SQoQEBjGusjAFcHTGNHxzFqZn_T9a_sZf6_Uv1nn9K9JK7Ts0yKKdoyNSvUMthLEb6ulxY_zRgzzHaIb8YAmcivi8tmzJ_DQgbmXUJdEaSCSXJbg-z6spWp_BgDbh1J1cyhEs67XlsHnr3oJNBcvVV70Zz1hiW_nGvyryxfbnbwB2Xg5eFwtv6Bj12w7HElDdscI3LgQ6ElOVHcvbZK6PiluqCeQ_0FRWLOQmKdMr6j65jvF3KySF6FKtB8esPnxZpkudCPagmPfk4AdM-04YIDBWEhPoQe5ndJzg3sYQhJK5jE33zIFP=w800-h453-no)

I used a Dremel rotary tool with a flex shaft attachment and cutoff discs for all the metal cutting. I cut slightly larger than the lines so I could slowly trim them down until they fit on the cowl.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NZalNDAxmUcO0O9HI8N7OxbtxxvdIxn7z7Ynt7zM5q0dMMfjzClosBb5pJMNylA9SLkCWq-ZwzYlebG4Rlmwa4HcPQF1mGft5riSZxyI3TQTmcP0VytG4jG53ntSu3VMpkHakKY8Z2BdVQ37AT3j83OdTarHQFw41wyM4mlnGcnVTT9Np8plG9mR-6mtYxZjFERqH8bR7f4qTi4oqmKbyhoWgvA97cc4KhYbRORvXS0oF2aKvlJSRbd3_kHmROPZqsLf14OMFVXvD4KiXp4K1urQPnxef4fOyNRmun2PFd1oiS4rsVkcCh_xV-rGtxPYfKf2Li9k4_H0NyG7WOveYCAagMfLIHGXmKGsJM0nPW0gJ0o0hFesgc4nOPmgLImTIxQHIl6NYdG0_-kMbjbHG8xxuQsUTllLvre0xzN5Bwa64Y-bLsVgGJ-X9GD-Xa6JTV4MAgLL8-XTKYlo5QSJhAW6JXJH0th7UFr17M6ekvDKDtiLHtPzjVjI9ZMQP9rS88la6oYb6jAeIG40r7s17sqSO7e9tikhZyY2NlJLAQ58nvw-TSJJcHoqmGkM_bI2CI-PdIudrtFxoZqhvb8LbnGPW2Us4asIhHDkNuF4ef1Nd-NTNgX7AXHfCIDsnGEjjWnCRzsIisbaMSjVRAHjWl2D9e8NeEjQ=w800-h453-no)

It was several hours of tedious work, but I got them to fit pretty well.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/oWhPuv90vLFU-pLKIUIB9PqZEPd3nUx4rJ37RKB2pZC-H_T3eQojcDub3k4KzD2UqJb8y9RyTcYaGwYLvaFQ2GycNM5r27q-tPw_CtIoM3ymmpEGWgDfZJCUCunUoPWMnwdOG4djcwKlkhjAf6zJMeQ24DHoU7y8w1hCD4rwncQMKMThjlKmHdqsSe3BY25GMixLP6lQ1hgmLGtvVr2QH25uWQwlJas5RLM9rqCYAjD7W5gOjtZt4BDhxaLMvmKMk_5QWT7xUsQWCBbd0S4sDm-derlFBt1zqQkxeYgQSYQXp7kTQRq8WSpIduPN8FjC0qmlIaQAMInwMK0B7k9mNrQ0avJkIhiynRE8jNTMEn-aSqG_mKfKncFBfA4svf24ptB72xpYqxor-sEcUTJuQFPEu_t4wbNPHdKrfUlfnaZ3zpjcfo-teEE1OJt1AhLU9ovacTJUAFQwDtvoLnlHb34qxf3aIVcBOy5ePxR5Nwri-LZPlJR5Kl0PPo3i6d7dxBYNyHUuSSUWAAoiVdPsrm1jwxRdWjYRrWZHZ96LRrXj-6tRv7zckUzrPE4eA0XSxigt_JuUXobGN6S1SOGiCofDfI1ov_JNL2cskCK8voxqc7VC2eu4Rw8WspQHMNhX9isHb_QxumrDEBSrXxrX05nc8Yw6hzv1=w800-h453-no)

The cowl opening needs to be 232mm from the widest point to the widest point. It's not very scientific, but it seemed to be accurate.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/t9vIOSDHXWi35pMmzgg1JUC4Z_ZEFQH5tgbwmK6vYJDpEj1nfjcgi4tfLbbjP1z986QEDorX1qHsM9fM5rIzbPF2EgDEb6OaY8HvSg50wjcQ1iFPd_cUzpy-E-wHYlfQjaGPBJUfaMTivbs5-E81ogaLRFORG_Zn0Zcwke78vUkTHkyNMolqRLmVMgivRgqffb8cMdje9nyZfWkX685Kx_k-H92OjGRXJXqHoCoEFAS3W-hPIvmqR26FY1FNXaFzHk2GBiw_olV2yxL2g1vykc35jpXhtofh5GDpplj1tzgu9FgBviVcslGZTuTjk6pWJ3M73Pm-g0bdKHlspykGZ1gkfMzZ2f8asNow-u8hfstIKBU_R0aqHWGF_I3yUr2OrU2ypysJrFRIjBkfQu12W3OGRVrvVzU8Je4MEeCk3A_wyYODqCuxNWgDEBYKv_3Nfq5mzeV6ufBdhdgU7EaRaBKCUtsqldW8P_WDqdKzMG_09oP1c67nazJbWCJHyjdvk3nUt7-K5gG3EDropypzHKDKA6th3ENy2wZc9FW935qo2tCIzy0dDODzswHRhy0EGPBeMVTOd9YC7fUwGoMiumsPcJRjNU6oYnvaUMLzGKyV9QHbXWkr09LRE6Yr2P0fHSvzwnBOmOcCiyeZs6s7QoTk7e_zqWFb=w800-h453-no)

I had to do the patch panels in two sections to make it possible to access the back to remove and weld them.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Gs1oxDukKYy4wqiqD1e5Ey7-b_GvkIAPDcsz3Z5NuUaU2x0V4huGaX33KbfSKPHVk_-XVD_qZRHg5_3zQ4Z6BHAP8sHUbWtv8R7cOSyZdBdgsZyJwttTGtAfZ0326_gCQ3HBwg0r2ohYkjAs0Wt87jVXOBZfSuGVumXMfM5HQ6xVH8kppNM0iBik5XZr0O9-rgcdbTQW8FsFE_Nyk2HDa1LP6lfCbD9PskIhFHpL_e8CIStAGMit-uo8XaVmI2mNQH7IrCpgrrKSt-gsHcbRDOO8tfsnVD86PZ8vXsEb7LEppo0ymJOobKkzZmcj34saAp58BbJP_nEvThjm_XYrkuv4qnEba62x7l4Tgdnb4QKVKntpwZa3iIOOg3mRTkbNFtvK8_Zyo3q2ARDOqgvYCKbmboAPh12lcbk1JkvNx8FKcrbpSGmGl7HPTiC4ZcZSXUWbj_pfuuzwe_y8gi6KvmCwwqePe6IC4ApilyuYBsFi1j-J242sE6ARXBepGVT0oYBbBl0PVwZTdlUTh65YdKZr-CM6d_AT5O0R8dDYvTg_UShIJUCPWqea7fr-J5Kth-TZUlhApov6bVE3BiM4XjvvkycWtVNvwAoU7krajlYNafhotXVY3EKK1WDktHDEHDm_3Y_EYMIuoawZM2C1NSWid38EfS3k=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 06 July 2018, 08:37 PM
I looked around for someone who could weld the patch panels onto the cowl, but only one person actually responded and he was an hour away. I rigged my car so I could drive it to him. He was a war veteran and had a really good attitude, unlike many people these days that want to do nothing but complain about why something can't be done--his attitude was, "I know it can be done, I don't mind a challenge, let's see how we can make this work."
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/IPpwN54tEw3VM87kK5_rMjfQJnxeHTyckuUBwVXPFWto4R8H4jVHjWQQhvaJ4B-6spoYrDMrE3s-w1UQl69omj6mJFqa1pdEWlFEJfwP1I8Gy5nCxaxMnQfsUL6ktYsrYTiSVwL8MgYxa2PF-5mEFgpm86OJ0bm8z69YXvQMX_gMISQHJDic9pRFwg5hDOD3UfZws_DDI2I5Ne9TShNkFbY9t4k4CDpd8efiY4fgEAcFSUDl6kOdL-QczzRcc2KlfOTaSjnyGN1LfV6ctkrslkDQM54mt3GMlxmwvGvWhQOSTqn3GqIaY_8Iea0oVEx2xmpbV6981e5tib0KkzsCDCpHpuOGB7TUHA9kfIk7f28LzF1epgfYwbnK3kTP42ZDbYNlJLFK3xq2tmgjDVG9RHrcC8vYU1txzy2n4yvOUCjgX11qy4_patFP1Z65wI8pZ8E05Wd-Vme7q52hqotb_nTgGkWhDG9klwxCokgxH_Tq5P1gHE64j-ca9Q68FENl3MGGyw_T1UL5OjdVETjITpCms_9LujhkhrW845Y67vqS6Rx-GSmM_ZZ0HlUNUAFY4kwsLk86WFFJ3QZi6EvgfTy3lSs_0S1mRBOUiswIJASigaqLRwqxIaa49YxhZISu2cWAazqvjuefpnOaq6QLUYzxTMSz7Zsh=w800-h453-no)

He did a good job and was pleasant to deal with, though he didn't have a way to hold the panels in place while welding them. I had magnets which would have worked, but he said the magnets would mess with the welder. Even if they were just on long enough for the panels to be tacked, it would have helped. He held the panels in place with his hands, and though he got pretty close, there are some spots were they weren't lined up perfectly. I'm a perfectionist and things like that bother me, but that's the thing--when other people work on your car, you're at their mercy.

It took a little over two hours and he only charged the minimum shop charge of $150, so that was nice. I feel he was honest and didn't take advantage of me. When I was driving back home, a W115 diesel passed me on the left and gave me the thumbs up. It had nice dark blue paint, custom wheels, no bumpers, and a license plate that read "BLU PIG". Then when I was near home, a guy in a Volkswagen New Beetle Turbo Diesel gave me a thumbs up.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ry4Dh8NDMwUVnZgtX7qTDpLIdN5VQMsPnTYCKIbmmmdkHZJIwA75OCI1i6XTl-rPwSoxE0YPAuEfj-EZvqjUttD-QN_z9P5ENJHzpc4jo70IptRERK5KqKlukmZcnvOAS9cGFSzs29zudA8vhZqbNuy0sprmTudlpojjXkcp9R3NfmfbRW1_ql9q6lo3E2xHVNUwz6ECwWHyBH6jm_UyxFiZalL-Sn0T0M9JMgCf2CNjm6MD9aoAWk8LAidNqxmHeX8NdCmgLa3qkbUxM4_zJWRDPxOdjEZZflNfMNJo8JPWlwo9lxSQoj27RPBR2nml9RO6pqXO3MegE44FxbZlm7mcMdw6kHIxuzBgtpl9reteSrh4MUXN0n1bmGjebkveBjKg2ylypuhThSNMRhQxQb46-wCuAoA1khOA73nU-U73eYFYgc_ogrcz-o00ymsmKmzb4oq22fXZ57cZVgRC-b9vn9h9Kl0-Dpkg7z4UDrrXBmcvjKeJUOFOjCzPVfUhnwWQT32VXSB57ENBV2TPBg3shYkJTBrKRJe2bCKOooSszuKFgVzeIc8etNXaaYLrx2I3h4IA7V2idmekgyVzkbCIlTijIYQD4r8k1kNMiAvODGaixv9KuNzh6ZC-ro3ulngsHSgozf94BzvLV11NIIGsWbljuufi=w800-h453-no)

The next day, I ground down the welds to get them as flat as possible.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/I6GVabGkXi6RGwxftlR6vML0Vgbe9MHHKnWMXcN3_6GR_xk3knUN_kzxsEzxopHymbrIwYwPMoOrq0Tt0rhX_yG7adS0fDEcEh_L2G-_BSs_c5Ik6FjZc85F2IbyZdwpiwLBmGqUmX-5VgMY8XPEF47B4kAVIK2LyI-HsiMlVRVkCH6WNDu28Tfdz2pMaJq7a0wMJ0WFUY_afaUe9GYiMbqB08yMEbOvXDNOb4mAPLWfYPYALIO5UCSO3VKGhz38GrkoFFcfwMWZ8kAhrUeCWMR7MYB8DYEdZfTvwg5rJM86h8pF3YnjAt57S9so63K1HcLEG0yd_FSbhApSoaDZ5tkz9C9zuQ6aNAHKecQtA58hhgprmSKUd0glYu89K2eoON25gZ7mH1m11jjk4V9wmBtxiJI0_6KJ8QkwLXqB6qi0Qe-FIMtdGD_0oLflO5tRYluB5UqbEGAZCh-stbCbMmrhy2X1Ty5Pc6YR2EzHml0rJMiimylAoyx_gF0A8lzYjUtA8mffzhi4LRhsA3duWi2EMX8exBkRCFnHOC1ltQrSPfYDCotwhVUa9G4fXYSPL542VP4VmP4dPTYpOkt-YTt6nfwD8mjdFEe58AmDO8yAUkoXL6DcBR1znefSsF-vZgG1KRCtBm29n4F04lXbY0MdLIP72lDT=w800-h453-no)

There were some low spots and pinholes in the welds that I filled with J-B Weld.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HRcPJYuKCe5Z2JFl5iaRcqRHxiZSqnaqmrEn9lvIu3MQbEo-QGBdZizXgQ5mZ_9zmU1pIXLYJQVFyuSJjh62hA7f2jbI1pLVCHg6uyNEeMGgTRU_FILLH2SETPelt5XAMnh2QGiocaGBh2NvsDF-a93z4EFrXLcfhQBM6qHLd2_1_Y5SH2v6r0aaE5H6J6rj_gOTbg6VwSM5Ikw-5Y0cmvG5ydElZIA_9F2LBHSqZGZoumgKhxinukIlU9mDZKmkmxZED8i3WeTD_yyVKYtx82J_RFTOwzIomq5uapLaSRHkhcMPrCs3KYhsJqKvz4XrKQSRPtH4DegQmzcYumBzlQYdOa_KUzs818-jzGpwPfAClQ3pgMxg55c79jM59ytEQIITAkJN4yHi1Trnu9ys1ox0xS9KrUShLYG2UGk25hE83qWsfsNV8EnfKzOp84hohd7dyO5gbuxU3ElWj-bWweoF23dzOxTkLjGSWDrdXk6aIUvYS89i8nba5-RDyVNJfBTKPnigeM0LQdVoRsV7MkUC80OdlPiVri_nPBsK-O8tKTCXx2Li0mqhpHA1LhLIOJFDzgSpNU3C2j3mxnhqnCTKqGaS15Bp-r9iry-bkE1x7rIdN8DU3HNLLrIqIlzRIHWkZ-0qAJzS3bMzhV8N7sO30puKeqRP=w800-h453-no)

Here's the partition welded in place. I bought some weld-through high zinc primer that I intended to apply between the overlapped metal areas before the partition was welded in. I sprayed some on the bottom of the partition with it, but it came out as a weird powder, and then the nozzle clogged. Hopefully it helped.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wOnuLeBwmnhK41-HKqpU74gawPnsLGR8wWXVMCBp73_MmkrXHQTuQPwy3GQ0pwIGw2YGe3OWenpYeikYONq4MdqTd6JPKpvBNm864WaW134owKrzO2T-CmxvFSl9XSbww-c4N3eH7TwnZLOmImEm5GvrhpLAh5Whw6IEkLJEgaWKur2oPfh4BOkaUJHdtkH7FKQwCLQm5jkgAx-SX9c4bhp_jOeZw_CkUnjdo7jjMu4PE9v7lT_6BZL8Z-BRY4ORCiaLKj7YLdycpkox4u5g7hmhcfn9OLsAkSyaW_sewU1KjDjWj6xKMG7iBP8ly0I6oCav2-k5Ieon6bKaHtYFvY481-hCd048jcQGSGVcz-_uMcE0ylWRPugXy6rFkHpyq4R3Gmv0GGSXinyuc2F3QdazkuH3JkDFMxCJArMoebgMi4Ogp5v1gZvqsz6Aep0OBafpxl4KvIAFWDOe-UwVbrJAw4nsy24-sgYi2oFUzXu2nhqzAM4hRj8Q6yeZPgkFmniw8MWqmSfVp2pSzBlzzM0LF0elNA7jV0UZkG2Q6d_YAYTDEQWVyKuq_2TzgdLH6IJ7EPS1JmTPSDuQebuTL8NtU0zfPeRWWTd5zOs1Lh7la0Wm9eh9guyM7hPv7ODb43PX_o9_EDviBTOp3_ocbRYH3L8U7XaD=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 12 July 2018, 11:24 AM
I have to say that I am very frustrated with the business practices of some companies these days. Well over a month ago (June 4th), I placed an order with MBOEMParts.com and I still have not received it all. A box with some of the parts arrived, and then on the June 16th, I got an email informing me that the rest of the parts were on the way, and was given a tracking number. I followed the tracking number from Illinois to the sorting facility here in Arizona. On the day it was supposed to arrive, the FedEx truck never stopped by. So, I checked the tracking number and it said that the package was damaged in transit and was being returned to the shipper. In the meantime, I've been emailing MBOEMParts.com, asking them for updates. They are completely ignoring me. I finally had to initiate a dispute on my credit card, and am still awaiting to hear back.

ACParts.com has been completely ignoring me for over a month, despite my constantly messaging them asking for them to please take care of the wrong parts they sent, and to refund me for the order they never sent, plus the shipping. I couldn't wait anymore, so I just bought some premade hoses from Klima Design Works and filled out Return Goods Authorization Forms so I could send my entire order back to ACParts.com. They never responded to those. So, I had to initiate a dispute on my credit card for both of the transactions with them. This is ridiculous! Keep in mind that I placed the orders on May 9th.

The seam sealer in the cowl still hasn't fully cured even after a week with it being 114F, so in the meantime I've been working on the blower motor case. I'm using one from a manual system, but it turns out those don't have a 100% recirculating air feature. The flap moves upward and creates at best an 80% cabin air, 20% outside air mixture. I want the 100% recirculating cabin air feature for maximum air conditioning performance so the 120F desert heat isn't warming up the cabin air.

So, in order to have 100% recirculating air, I took apart the blower motor case from my car so I could transplant the flap and sealing surface onto the one I will be using. The case comes apart with clips, but of course there's also a rivet holding it together, making removal more difficult. I drilled it out.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sRxpTKL29jCuCcaPhUa71OvIajOBI92eeUuZ7yaRLdKh3Zedc9NXOagB71gNl5BbU1KYWZTyDpkFgYLxZ30DerCMQcRFhKu712R-U7_L2yakwyF_ZDbRv34vR0sHE9wD-kCF_YsHt8138FF1Il-yCVspvb3aw1IUaNzJF1JnGuIsf4NSwZJ74M3PWe1giFRW7o_MyxDMhXuKyidIynQ8ymGgwNJN4Hsq5C94kZdDMq4q8cYDiJsgW-AFdf2oiMk1KNPqHgbcRUxLNBKSf3MPZUTj4oRBCipIX8xwbMa1dCbl7HMnz68u4vkBFtmaWKjmX6XhsMu8i2KrccyCRCGWCQ8bKdLg_PsafVf4bD-iHA1MZ1v7seJBQF-vPFxf0urSHfetlVlTSMgDPVg8rGNoVxXpqYqlc98ewxTEQqoyjez6tmEPh1E3AsIUFNvipv2Br_T6x9z2uLklELce4Is8Zno3xeg-z6rEq3r0ZETlewtZb4eI8E5zsR_gACi_VQbJ_XZOHotJzp5S82u91PN2SYpCbSa-Jj4FVK5BisXzmjesb2yQICefBA4V427nNXLpqT1md2PaYf2OjyYiOMfpQ-ziBC_R30coVnPZ90_ohLJ7CmWD5vNEq9yEQAok-NIeT7_aMWT6gOn5rYmJZ9botzl4k_A9Wz3l=w800-h453-no)

Once the case was apart, I was able to drill out the rivet holding the piece of the case I needed to remove that's accessible from inside, and then drilled out the rivets on the outside.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lkeAwbi6_eQ5NlmVzvc7SHUdd7BwIgDb0MdwsmcmB7zbhKyH7F99wgG2XTBNp37FpEaXFSNT1FYhbC3StTa04VLNslGtIncrmmRxQYgQDg50_2QFwVrMbmKqhnBb2FBLlCKipphsfeVt4lXHMRcCHmFJNMWGFA2NqCg4dVGpUa87S3lzJKeQ9KCgm4WFkzZ4WPMOIi903MGrAcU1NcTAFKcz_cS_pnY_VaszO_nuM0zlpKWK3t_crBEQ-Ee_uUfJ28yX-ix-YqFCqh_o7A9u_2jwiDDDhynPivBz-7NthfxygsKC5tE7Vfz-lIkCDLRNjt5Z1_oGxvPUOIAU9WQo-Bs4BGktbX-vEnDIxxCHztbyPoDkMUkdDbs0VXsf-2mlDx8vUrXAX8LjXlgtrdyZ5aWRclX31fbh9TrhojasuY1YG4DQnxkbu3jnMUwu6cQ51XiC3VF4tKtRiapzsGGGhsG70zjrlERbywIEtyV5v2BjiTR26yTKF9aBy0Kofd4W4Pxmz5tjPH7NqyBIiYPoV8M0jQAkVNmJUYIzg-QFTMRkqZc1aL4pE7k_b_MuukIYLAiBjx1bncEvl5sl8I8pt9syUyqXIZVSaTXUZ7D56J3UAkSeNmsEjswE0-yKI4VlIZi9BTJi5HYB7IUVQoNtfKntAAbOgKBK=w800-h453-no)

The flap sealing piece is removed and can be transplanted onto the manual case.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/UXqDiEA586E43ceBu-sY-1Dxg_BTdhNE9NeAiSMCZKSji1JvUHJJ3VkSeHp4_2vvctXBQ5yc-lgemvNwtYb7knPR7tX0RIJ0zCtkMSd-0wI02k6tYdWCsWKw-Yim6YjfPSszUuZ-Y0U70Sx0W9DdfYzH6wRPoo4hjkvr7EHdPNZ7_8BBBMbDzzEJSPzyi5o9HJ05KQQuqSJLpQbVm2pY2izZA7lv2nvaaqX88pP6UaRJwXC5p1FAdD77KR6E-pfW0js-wwYrMF5uwe_2wSk5GShrDOZmsit8qxaUJSw1-Rr3S9Nb46tD6OJ_SZVmaPYt_nnXFzBaE5QcGxsEQI3_6XCknlY8VZrYFM4IXQ_F3KAGDOFdEbAFvzVfYQ73rXGQYjFUa4fbNjzy9PBaU5YV2VRpZ9HIwvz0rfcSbWOuIQPLyXNOHbcNQqq66R-dezkOTOAk1hx5q5M5zk14Q_VHE1Qkr-MkdIgrAMLxTF2mnOgjq9gqfUulqc-S_mFkmlt0ByUkvbE1D228ZnpcdlwiIBY6-XVfONJz_t_fjRYd7inI5xVjOfuJQeP5YZjEU1s22JO1SRLXY6QYNGc7pktjbP07-zJnsgoSces52lXoZoWorADB_2TFEflmE1OsoGOopvgFe_YBT0COkhUHaQrBb4FcKEEP1JQD=w800-h453-no)

To remove the flap, I pried back the tabs so it could be lifted away from the bar, and then the bar was slid out.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/KQ0w3S02RSxqGp0XQ0SrdrF_NLgGqlV2SdQD2fOc6t5FaW2JqbqV1O0m_U-zVsh5L504tJV9NSqnXUMcraS5thpNAHY6Sb-AavJBqoVliO3NW7-yCCgDHobSiMvXNbeM38Vso2q6DnImQe4EckgpXPPKevV2XROicH61L9A672CczjET8xyaBJdKeKSZGJIzNTiruYyC-mT5i6yhTGkKbswP3ykU25ct7he5sZs1XSIx8IGsGB5uIwl4j0n0pTboo1KLTy96KLbn4vARU07WHUJEqlWp4S20ii_wxHMOWqIi-dM3eS1--6qGF2AkC4BCd1FU5M7jEjWHmhZ2Oj11qs_mDdJYkoMfgn_T-XZZ0po40J68JMwwU4V96MrUK4x68wPyxcIDx2nXHpU4gvVjBZbXU6ozyo79TY85YZeFEuUj4hNA-eerxVCDaV-sH08Q5TxsSELO80OwY3oh_aGSC1u4e7zbkdhZwPe9UqOPVbZD3KtefISgE0cnoe595HrO3uNYxE5He_Ap66dFMCBjDdMWS1_oU_1gEIjur3B6uIg_phTk6RC07acKBde3CMMpHhLwYMZvKyIT3St7ggafeIkpiEEtmJi7pWosHzvbp0SPQD0xSVZ4lUHaLf-K_czrm9MnLhrfA-A72PGNsevvkzAh6nunnPgd=w800-h453-no)

The flap on top is the one removed from the automatic climate control blower motor case. It's flat and designed to have foam on each side. The one on the bottom is the one from the manual case I will be using, and it has a lip and wasn't set up for recirculating air. All it really did was seal off the cabin air during defrosting and then raise up to allow a mixture of cabin and outside air the rest of the time.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/frjYL85Rgc28pR4wTsq6ryHV18XrbiNIpe56i_3tIRS_xdrzHFJRtjdvFWv9ZAS3U0Lxitj9xzLzPYTCRHfByDYKkwK0WyThTIuMRW7Qic9-pCkuKqdjBzsPDSBhkXrHgwWGbBzrH5zHaQ-s_Di5HtM1BW9C6SvZ6NOI16NxvfdUfmRxBAbq25OnzbJbzUCvMLMXQ5gqXv0-YmNGuFLLl1hH3JKPLinmosI--st5gKAUn434wsVPGY_f6057UIlhSPk3O_W6Ty9WeEjrK2K487DNwZoko4_Jo9aGDsxkANMrxY3io7IjEjXe-i3b556d9XzsUBnkeDyV-dkW0FlHVmijkoOXkN7lX-5eN91JhdZYlxV4lwYvNsHiDzqW1P1iRr-t1AH43t-pq_5nlEm1VF92LEIjGhgeSSbeuH0nqu2IsjYQ2iGmP_Ato1AOI6InnUNY3uzAdiTlmTF6xTM76Op7jxcbCzlhOqQlqNUyHZu2lsnRYFkr-Gxrnw2PesczN6SKuTBnJlIAhFAxzSU-jg6gB8MzzymyAn7lbgxFa1UbddCG3gfkfb7IXZVKwQwzvrUnactNt0yaVQB5r0_GDWQzi2WiiBSJgsP6cDWBHCPA9RMOVBsSaYKy1SvE-ItX9YP_HJHCnlUygbJPrKRE2Z5lCMmc-S6A=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 12 July 2018, 11:49 AM
There is another flap inside the manual blower motor case which adjusts the flow of air dependent on the speed of the blower motor for microtuning of air flow. I put new 1/8" thick extra soft high temperature resilient silicone foam on it. The plastic retainers weren't staying in place, so I had to use a heat gun and wedge the prongs apart with a thick flat blade screwdriver so there would be enough tension to hold them in place. This probably wouldn't have been necessary if I didn't use such firm foam.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5Rw4GOzThCCGuhfHuvEkQqhYaeX88iblQljVwVgmueF1itIgi1PMG8MHfR0d5CGp6Wraarcup2tOpnayQD_t_M17-opVXZwfi60ALT-VnHEaD_6zS1RYDdW2xcPjne1mriyDs5zWYbUuZun5Y-sl3QsT5RXmtqgUlLEmmlaVwCFCgyVQrPJTvqbDfar_CmoeqnqXrKBN_55Adc-DAdYpycuFiSOi6f3sq4jTINsnlKgQvIajxk7yKM0xRWFUxiGjq4eMLrSHMdlUqjb463sbu0yqtYbHDSUs0kXFbk6lazssFb8jBJse70eq3Gk2_yWb_NBGMRFXu44amXJCM1flCph4bWmrIUQy5ZpsYuCm6qdyz-CHMmp7UsHNbQfZ2YpN09agWN_yNXb1BK4MouS-j1qxMtCon7Qpl5gIG5AvhfJR8sMo083KTMugUFMyO0ARnT3VV4Qi2vQ8r_Ts1VC2VAGVgtAtLFX4qn1ntEnujNhftYeHfuC62dTaNAaPOkEqmvfx-zANqKlFaq4IkLlGc9Nzd3_wD-_u4DzqCQ8iLDppleTVeRaNBzhRkCmDG9QGOmlir7Phc6FLpjRDB0iwiK4zMMMYEg_vFsLMvbCFg1_7vYd1vacR9KISFp8Q_DQSYmvTXonON0_im0TjresyZ5BhZSGEta5Z=w800-h453-no)

I cleaned up the recirculating air flap from the automatic case, put new 1/8" thick high temperature resilient silicone foam with adhesive back on both sides, and installed it in the case. I tried to install the plastic retainers on both sides, but unlike the other flap I did, the plastic retainers would not stay in place. So, I had to remove them and fill the little holes in the foam with some twelve-year-old POR-Patch clear seam sealer that I had. I would liked to have used new foam, but I didn't have any left, didn't want to spend over $40 for another 12"X12" square of it, and then deal with having to cut it out and fit it into place. The automatic cases with 100% recirculating air had a foam strip that seals against the flap, so I installed one in the manual case.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nAGp_caLdi8UP9qCPtBq6yNcUvP4i3oYK1BsPk8M_7M0U9RO065rEeJFybUhsXZjVoI6j2zfUSrISas5EYBUcAZ-v7OjdJzWVGnEv4e6azmWLyjdBDCqgr9r1HIAuCwq8gpJi-3Vm7DVEDdeAnzVNv81u1E0WqEUxaR05VJI0Tf-xTSjWJRzAqskgtoj2fFCxrNNbgj95cTdtSb7-Ucpp5BlmqIRuE62MIIm5hYQ6PVStUwEIN49oFzB2pdJ7Ab_VVjKtcp5u-m6EfYxmiTvVJGQxQJ-E_s-5QJ8bWv1MwC32UAk7aLpr7hf0QOLN6RidqP6Z1u65THL6bLEfIdiSm3NDAAVBC47Eye7XZ6AVF-AvLJxoIC2hNt4TRGkTG0CIq0UEIg9qtojSocYADzPmP-7kvTr2DUkFNALP7jNsqGF8mUPDZYuqP3tdp7Sdbe7qEqdTtImXciLL9BQQvpTnO--hN48mm6nzNmZwE8UJYCR--OHWmQ3UnAwGy13-fJWIFFxcxC5sPR6OU2Xwsqn-RHfiwES5QBevzoVdBVFz-IpFiEZN8bfEoHFJrLwAYcyQ8djaMPDlNHJG7A99GS7whZQx1Ko_s_0jnHwcWyeJZ757h0LI9FfOvdmL5izT3cD6Rf5Y4H0Q1LX1GT0ljVw4jitfFYuVaF-=w800-h453-no)

I put new 3/16" diameter neoprene foam cord from McMaster-Carr (the same stuff I used in the climate control case) in between the blower motor case halves.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/1V0D62x2RuRZeDB1NNAcgT5xD9XU9SakE1rVf-g4EniGgsS6RgfiiRynaZAMmuBxcrw6IZklcfs2BCn6gWDKltXliSh5UiEfTeQASMQwiacjdcdzhweAGBDMeUB4RUJmmSHXg8c_5SXtgXULSjZTZ9v_R0DWHQF89C9seZNDH_W-NITVV8PSE2DDRqVsaSfV5mHLO8hgrK0ZzEWVXbCFFRxBo_7RsJ7pRnG9J3iaZ7jM4KsuSgw7cuih6l5z97IXBiR01Tk2w2vnpz4Fnk6yBl4PE-FwXMmI_l_P3zGHxuPV7xIq5ZqSdOFkMh2fCRd4ANjylAq_dyUJx47N81FRZG4Yb-sMmtGWdeTyb5HxLwaXPDhrSgYOY7nAJsrpcvngxR9xzksjSqQpOccCRjQoCNT-NOBTtgPtB7ERORo-2MCJ5zRZkWRij7zKEzqB5hrA7QKyBZpENHhqOBCyMkudBHooXPhztIaIz_f5Nh9gqfTWf2OS0klo50P5y54w75kvHl0G9rtILwkfu5T7D_F9UPgucxS_wZVI8fRkfQsZRxVrgOkXQ_EQpvOdG-xYl_D9pFdWzPF138D6M7fIpUPnjCu_qiFLWGb9DfdTb3Vs7xARDJZKwSfr1Ou9HCzxHHgpvzYi2wia_WXhsIwwmMQgJP5QwGCsD0UU=w800-h453-no)

Installing the rivet that helps hold the case halves together. Once again, McMaster-Carr came through. I needed 5/32" rivets for 3/16"-1/4" material thickness. Of course, none of the hardware stores carried them, and any hope I'd have of getting them would be to drive downtown in this heat. McMaster-Carr had some all-aluminum sealing ones (97524A114) that were identical to the ones Mercedes used. I ordered them online Wednesday afternoon, and they were delivered to my door the next day.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VWWGXAjazEZnlLZBp_gaowiOWez-7mz6cKv7_R-kNG1_bA19f4907UYySxLJLRUfzvqLyzxf__A2VIga5EvsRvb2Tk2I0gcVlZvzuVrOsjwi_qghkl9S_ffmMhLxebWHJxB8RrDxOQdmlB--SIO3yYIC-fVBkLzyBrcJEygDELpV9N1o4AGlCpkgQdw7GOypirwfxZu0J5bBEQTiyWVsNZ6d1sa-FHduYCNLLXE6GVGHl-c8DAcTVR01nPCspY7Filz9aNklQLrExry4Ebx3vwVl1x9_Lvhu9ZXpx9qXIwYEgxzCdEp5pKwhfpBuFBZOEqLdnMo9xrGZRhhD_fx6M286pCN3p-FmQhcxYh0pKDnpf683M-vM41qqPM8OG2FPXQ4AVY3RGnz3RExGSSHBAW_jVayHMEywYb5ZHsAJ3TozhFXMAP6p2HmanEiON-m9OreWfOx0GoemhyX2yFfwIQ24iITncBJEB4wk3ezYdBO4eXXOMx2REzyokeXta7N7hpnvd-IDpFVJKFEu5F6kuaTC9hg668Pz_ZUPWrBlWctOUR0KPwjOJcT6l1h6HA0zdPzrrv5FCmznMpXUoHPOje4zWzYff7zRB6jR4UuGZbfg5rHc_IB04w2eq6-BC8IIcFZf_YVC2xbaMow7toy_Dl_ldfSCKRIF=w800-h453-no)

I installed the recirculating air flap sealing piece with sealant and rivets. Figuring out where to drill the holes was tricky, and I had to fill the holes with hot plastic and re-drill until I got it perfect. Now this blower case will have a recirculating air function, and with much less parts than the one my car originally had. One vacuum pod and one cable are all that control the flaps.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rdEbucUXRainaM0q9p6AlUZOEC2-WYheyBi6TqeccyrF__pnV5Kr9xXTORE5-261QruYDUk62LxgqihK4Qgf7lzZqu967j1Qgt1BC6RHPVwT2OwxoOT18J-KKFJYXPNLa-vnVtQGTv7qFfm1Q_iTmB5YBKhuMDMv5ZX177sMFxU6BeK1Zi2SE8LySRIgj9xv-7kX4yzjYC596jCXq8FfPeI11dL6QDI5owbU7IRo9Rw_Qg4zGXT9AkLNEq2e89DPYyutgLNeSjAUr1ViijjEhrS-GjwF-0RTB3RPpEi1wwHvEiBMm6XoWgMEiUnTQ0zPR6e3FJKpECn6G0PVzmH6tvCVPJD60aoVDnfa5giY2rxJcDZTnhiYV0j_1ObIdRvE01ACQx6JA7D6FyeAGOyau9S8C1NU-rIjC_qKtHxkygYku5hjyf9QuXuaLnHf4emnBRUN39bNcayz9DnXq-dvasRwpTWjHQHUm0zbuzt5lKDkh4b1B5glNQ5J0EjocTtu5qf0oF_-ADyBhnWg9YCiYlvuX9M5_tbEdOxAuUli4M7JPzgmY5cWgckwZxrSPKfH1vEUm_rvfYdpvNDD9s-ICZJIzISmHs-3EBXgyCne_uhA-JMRCpyEsot1svFoTEQqFiyv_M0lv7Ol0-gu3WS2IRSyPIHSjAua=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: gavin116 on 12 July 2018, 12:22 PM
Great work there Squiggle. Occasionally bits of foam fly out of my windscreen defrost vents... :(

I can see at some stage I will need to refurbished my air-box. Will have to pick your brain closer to the time, especially what materials to employ.

I think recirculation only happens when you turn the blue knob all the way on past the little "-" sign in the "max" area. In a 450 with the General Motors A6 compressor, the air-conditioning is fierce, I'm not sure one needs a 100% recirculation feature. Even on the lowest setting its cold, in fact sometimes I have to turn it off from time to time.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 12 July 2018, 01:16 PM
Great work there Squiggle. Occasionally bits of foam fly out of my windscreen defrost vents... :(

I can see at some stage I will need to refurbished my air-box. Will have to pick your brain closer to the time, especially what materials to employ.

I think recirculation only happens when you turn the blue knob all the way on past the little "-" sign in the "max" area. In a 450 with the General Motors A6 compressor, the air-conditioning is fierce, I'm not sure one needs a 100% recirculation feature. Even on the lowest setting its cold, in fact sometimes I have to turn it off from time to time.

Thank you! I think almost all W116s have deteriorated flap foam by now. I am happy with the foam I used, other than even the extra soft foam being too firm--what this means is that it can keep the flaps from fully closing if the alignment isn't perfect as it doesn't compress as much. I just wanted to stay away from an open-cell foam that would disintegrate in only a few years, and saw this post where a guy used the same stuff in his Volkswagen EuroVan: https://1705.net/dash-removal-and-foam-repair/ (https://1705.net/dash-removal-and-foam-repair/) . Modern open-cell foams are supposed to be better than they used to be, though.

I know that on the manual climate control systems, the flap only moves up fully to the "80%" position when the highest air conditioning setting is selected, and the highest setting isn't supposed to be selected until the cabin air has had time to cool down significantly past the outside air temperature. So, now instead of the flap in the manual blower motor case only keeping 80% of the outside air out when at the maximum setting, it will to keep 100% of it out, like the one that was originally in my car would do. So, I won't be losing effectiveness on the maximum setting by using the manual blower motor case.

Keep in mind I live in one of the hottest climates in the world (over 100F most of the year). Every little detail makes a difference here. My roommate has a 1991 W126 350SDL with a parallel-flow condenser, dual auxiliary fans, Denso compressor, new hoses, drier, and expansion valve, and is charged with R-134a. In the winter, the air conditioning is pretty good. But, in the summer, the air conditioning actually seems to blow warm at any time other than when the car is being driven at speed, and I'm trying to end up with colder air than that.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: TJ 450 on 12 July 2018, 10:53 PM
Excellent work there,

Yes even though the A/C systems work well they can struggle with high ambient temperatures through all the air leaks in the cabin and that flap won’t be helping things.

I’m not sure if the diesel runs the A6, but they are a lot better than the York but still archaic by today’s standards. They to work well though.

Tim
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 13 July 2018, 07:20 AM
Excellent work there,

Yes even though the A/C systems work well they can struggle with high ambient temperatures through all the air leaks in the cabin and that flap won’t be helping things.

I’m not sure if the diesel runs the A6, but they are a lot better than the York but still archaic by today’s standards. They to work well though.

Tim

Thanks! The diesels came with Delco R4 compressors, which have a bad reputation. I replaced it with a polished aluminum Sanden 508.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: raueda1 on 13 July 2018, 10:04 AM
This job is very, very impressive.  Hopefully you're approaching the end soon and will be able to enjoy it.

In the meantime...   I never thought about cabin recirculation till you mentioned it here.  You mention above that the manual system only recirculates 80%.  Do you know what the lever positions are to get 80% or is it fixed somehow?  I can't seem to get my hands on a euro car manual and even web searching on lever position reflects a lot of confusion out there.  The following is the best summary I've seen:

Both air flow lever up -  max defrost
LH down RH up - Max air from dash vents - no defrost
Both down - Dash and floor no defrost
LH up RH down - dash, defrost and floor

Hope I got this right.... Tks, 
Joe
Do you have any idea where cabin recirculation fits into this scheme? 

FWIW, I was just drove back from Cali through Vegas. Temp hit 119deg F for a spell.  I was driving my Chevy HHR, not the 6.9.  There's nothing about the HHR that's special or overengineered, that's for sure. I was quite concerned about overheating but never did (unlike numerous others).  It was so damn hot that I turned AC off at times (like up long grades) because of overheating concerns (engine temp going up to 232F if I recall, not sure when it boils over).  Nevertheless, the AC was able to keep things comfortable even when not set on recirc.  The real problem was having to turn it off entirely to avoid overheating.  I'm not sure how the 6.9 would have handled that.  I'm not 100% sure that my aux fan is working, I need to check that.  Cheers,
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 13 July 2018, 10:39 AM
This job is very, very impressive.  Hopefully you're approaching the end soon and will be able to enjoy it.

In the meantime...   I never thought about cabin recirculation till you mentioned it here.  You mention above that the manual system only recirculates 80%.  Do you know what the lever positions are to get 80% or is it fixed somehow?  I can't seem to get my hands on a euro car manual and even web searching on lever position reflects a lot of confusion out there.  The following is the best summary I've seen:

Both air flow lever up -  max defrost
LH down RH up - Max air from dash vents - no defrost
Both down - Dash and floor no defrost
LH up RH down - dash, defrost and floor

Hope I got this right.... Tks, 
Joe
Do you have any idea where cabin recirculation fits into this scheme? 

FWIW, I was just drove back from Cali through Vegas. Temp hit 119deg F for a spell.  I was driving my Chevy HHR, not the 6.9.  There's nothing about the HHR that's special or overengineered, that's for sure. I was quite concerned about overheating but never did (unlike numerous others).  It was so damn hot that I turned AC off at times (like up long grades) because of overheating concerns (engine temp going up to 232F if I recall, not sure when it boils over).  Nevertheless, the AC was able to keep things comfortable even when not set on recirc.  The real problem was having to turn it off entirely to avoid overheating.  I'm not sure how the 6.9 would have handled that.  I'm not 100% sure that my aux fan is working, I need to check that.  Cheers,

Thanks! I'm almost at the reassembly stage and am aiming toward a goal of driving it to Utah mid-August for the Helper Arts Festival to visit family.

I think the only time the recirculation flap reaches its full throw (80%) is when the air conditioning dial is turned all the way to the highest setting, and doesn't have anything to do with the sliders. The air conditioning dial has a vacuum switch on it which controls the flap position. As far as I know, it's either fully closed to allow 100% outside air to enter, or when maximum cooling is selected, it moves up for a mixture of 80% cabin air and 20% outside air.

The W116 Heating, Air Conditioning, & Automatic Climate Control service manual covers both manual and automatic climate control, though it's not always clear on the basic operation.

From what I've read, modern cars are supposed to have larger condensers than the W116, that are also parallel-flow, which makes them more efficient. This is probably the largest factor in what determines air conditioning effectiveness. I switched from a tube-and-fin condenser to a parallel-flow condenser, so it should make a significant difference. Our cars are limited by the space available in front of the radiator. I've seen people install one condenser in front of another condenser, but I've also read that this doesn't really work because the heat dissipated by one condenser is absorbed by the one behind it, and it adds more length to the system.

Anyway, I'm trying to get the coldest air conditioning any way I can feasibly do it. I'm hoping that by running an upgraded air conditioning system and still using R-12, which is the coldest refrigerant in existence short of using controversial hydocarbon substitutes, I'll have air conditioning that's at least on par with a modern car.

An auxiliary fan is an important part of the air conditioning system. The fintails didn't even have them at all, and had rather small condensers on top of it. But, they were using R-12 refrigerant, so it was probably acceptable, and better than nothing. If you decide your air conditioning isn't cold enough or you have problems with your engine getting hot (neither of which seem to be a problem with your car), you can upgrade to a 16" auxiliary fan from a second generation W126, like I did. It's plug-and-play and even has a 116 part number on the plastic screen. All you have to do is bend out the braces and install a support on the bottom.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: gavin116 on 16 July 2018, 11:32 AM
Hi Raueda1

It is my understanding that the system recirculates when the dial is turned past the "|" on the blue marker. See picture attached.


Edit: I found the manual I photographed a while ago, refer to page 22: https://forum.w116.org/test-drive/owner's-manual-euro-d-jetronic/msg86088/#msg86088 (https://forum.w116.org/test-drive/owner's-manual-euro-d-jetronic/msg86088/#msg86088)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: raueda1 on 16 July 2018, 11:51 AM
Hi Raueda1

It is my understanding that the system recirculates when the dial is turned past the "|" on the blue marker. See picture attached.

Edit: I found the manual I photographed a while ago, refer to page 22: https://forum.w116.org/test-drive/owner's-manual-euro-d-jetronic/msg86088/#msg86088 (https://forum.w116.org/test-drive/owner's-manual-euro-d-jetronic/msg86088/#msg86088)
Thanks for that, makes sense.  Since the previous post I messed around with it and now it all makes sense.  With that dial rotated CCW fresh air very freely blows out the dash vents as long as the car is moving.  Moving it past that line causes airflow to be increasingly dependent on the  blower, consistent with recirculation.  I hadn't tried that before, or if I did I couldn't make sense of it.  The system works pretty well after you figure it out, but it's about as unintuitive as it gets.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: raueda1 on 16 July 2018, 12:06 PM
Hi Raueda1

It is my understanding that the system recirculates when the dial is turned past the "|" on the blue marker. See picture attached.

[b]Edit: I found the manual I photographed a while ago, refer to page 22: [/b]https://forum.w116.org/test-drive/owner's-manual-euro-d-jetronic/msg86088/#msg86088 (https://forum.w116.org/test-drive/owner's-manual-euro-d-jetronic/msg86088/#msg86088)
Also, thanks for the link!  I've been searching for this manual without success.  I had no idea you could tow-start (push start?) these cars!  Never heard of tow starting with an automatic tfransmission.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 21 July 2018, 10:50 AM
I brushed etching primer on the cowl and painted it with leftover POR-15 Hardnose paint that I bought twelve years ago for my 1965 International Travelall.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/j-L9yMS0lBx0_76p03ohxfcVxAHojX-HrDw5O6eaCoHKxQY7_zzTyE5Y7NMfEi5LXP9aEd9rz6RVWeT-VGKWk72Bn08kMnn0OVin6xfeo9t_eeL_HTR-IEPXd5_9xnxmjvSgSGbi3hPUyvlOBmMAYQszPzA1iQAf1lAUK9rQZPdQZkpbuYwQ-1y830K9sCI6llKh8M4pre4Ph2I3-VgOrTWYkANxY2HEPKTr8LTj06wyAngIS5i35dS_QoYog3qdh1iJUx21mnB7AK7Yut_IaPKx5vLtE_sRzq6gN5RL6IFBZ6KHWLo8Bkc1GltZhRPDWe37etM-HQ5wEYrmkGV68UbqnaNLv43FqzFqz3p-USzbCuq0gQB8_1ijemSPd5qnBeBfmp0OUgzou2OabeVWRQB37EVxcUk2BNIOShVlYxCes0mrHhTuZFyZu6JGdLLpCnmWtUO6dbrIc8edB0tAn4RTXmrQZJrKpYrcLOe0-CaQ3x-a6pKUb_ZfLiHJgsDE-5YbE_26V6W0xlwXfpKRuvjMbb0fZujD3FouaUGbeYoW-CY-Y5p-ZtK9TktJOVXO1xGjaTSlMV7t08w6QcWjATwFp08af9xvGwFonU2UN_7o2W8Fa6r1l38VI3IBmN_YKBhfGgRY83xIxTc520-LTqIZmmiFSIzt=w800-h453-no)

I covered the cowl partition with lots of 3M Dynatron seam sealer, and primed and painted it. It shouldn't rust ever again!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/H9zaOS6Eao8fZU4A7i1ftFfAeQIoo2tvxzOSbKrXt6nougu7sJz_T__6ZmVk7VaN1Z6SLSazjxGxebWAY8Gjr_FrmOXiHdxsgsb6bOD_YUDdsQKhxpnvrWqpFBOwu0VUuj8PKzvYKo1AGGV2Avo24VUtQMWW_ihVjVhRuxRLmDvYFaTYq1OvlEfQbMeJHugzxyQNtGt4-lFO12po_mfVsApWMiV9ioAOLSkBGao3zuLHPwT6ZbUgX8g6lXepZiT0gqcQ1bKVVwukee3zGXoAD_HJAWTiMUqOefzA8maw_8jp1d5hrOWdRYuPcPz9ebHtBqX6Uc2496qXVaa4bPZNlwR4RgSOmAs2wMiZu3CRpj_mybyfmfChH1wrGicGFNcq7TarDVj_XSz_RlouMEz2fneqJ5gFzzzu7zgNfUBtKUd1mSifft-99GtiJtUwFtl-iIsshFhkEGwZcb1WceZzg-uiCnfxsjZ4HxdKaV_zdmR7cqHpjeSDesRreXxukdsZrbSGLgIqR6hW6gaWoc72CR_N0LAcquqanm3v4_o3i3FlAsS0DS-iZPxfyQn-vqTF_NGxocMI3pS8_bgRHOFNJgGChLL58cXinq9_ky4jYY-271jR62v8MpMZ9nn0_kuUv-u3NGtF837pAwByaMRawr6nicLSMIzG=w800-h453-no)

Here's the wire harness that will control the blower motor for the climate control, removed from my parts car. The firewall grommet that used to hold all the vacuum lines for the climate control got the holes plugged with black 1/4" pull-through plugs ordered from McMaster-Carr.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MKjY-gL--s3rIIfX52OD88jAHjwqH0_1cU0_lvYjXjMkA59AUxddQKT_4oIe2DMNHeHZWey6PGne3yvCrPJDkkCFPG8HPYNOheQhqbBkH2eu-93FmCFx9Ck1zPIflBQ8i2LOgEFT2Tsn7Z0WI9GSqR6jtZYKTMswXBJoUz0mXysbQgEWMiXwY6T11nH4Pg8Q1trYnNI8VpRui0qkmo6mCsG2vW2T7L6AR6tDzCY-k5gTJLEvLeVqFM8RATxzTTJm9oUPG3oc67PGPK2OkOcsMw2wfNqN0lgzagNsMb3Gxj38BXTJTFQgWuxPLM8UjuDUi2oXTewvZ_jZ4yOoG7rLmDbTtEQqkoWZgksAt0YIwVa8wGB13ROEEc3ho8eJ2F_5KhNTvnUdwqbHJnJygok4YMJ4V60eR3qoBMu4tC3DjM46ER9rLGtN5QTfimsDVlKtd1I1AJpLuwHwyyLFRI4SuHdvkEHuVkgs9vVmPcNzj572esluHun6BuFfwiqmpgZoGS39WcSywoKX0zwWYXuUJt3dY58DeUDtWmKf9vAAf8UPggNcKsXJ_qPRzcoPWc_mNO7HOmDO7lb4jApNpAVfRH_abdxB2o0njRNFIhKCmX0_PaivMrACM9Io6ih_trADqK6bfXFbpy45AJnzx9eVG2LP3gWSMjCI=w800-h453-no)

I fed the wire harness through the tubing where the original wire harness was. I had to hook a wire hanger section onto the connector on each wire and pull them through one at a time. It was tricky and I was very worried about damaging the wires.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NHeiUIerU8aBp9arwX6VO6k3Cgoz1OaQvBeC-3jtRdFdNsltXJhx1-Fc3b2SbnIDWVKWqbh-6a158Ir3EgOO4wRkqvrIS-qu0mL0HckEcAWjnV5OmdYx9ipXPrr28Waz62_9IV7HctyRltINXpHEsiSjTnDvk-L7umanQ9OkrBEuPNyPlNFCVXUhPCVD-MA9rT8HdhgrYMl8mm3Ggp1hIR7HhfMcnrSHfZC6agfWtbPu5r9PN8xpv41bQaTlT5ZSmrZ0vhKPcQXteIhZncRH-exEujYptN6KiCr6o1GWyr-ioIoIqe0u8wbCMEnONgKFhBnlX7mZOpk8kR9fq3yUby-Y2LIF7XIS_9p8xZr_tMxm53bUFBms3padeMDk1-urLHA4Ak3J2kHWGWn-HvEZ6b6DyjcJ_fRvMVPWszImrHGybD-xUV9LLl15fxwvtFgyz6ldfWgQ8KmnboSc5lproLNTufPoDw6JavwrqPQv-7zvIXuH2LYfbtWrwwgZW_dgwTtnRddflT70DDFCPUQzd4scEJ1a3Bjd0y5y4vUSKwVKIF8-kA-ecdNMem-Qk-na5x4alOMZmbjTTAgVSgyyvhE7qKd4o-vt-6Un20JByl-vOxTGQQRUzFNWP0HPIlWcT25Ru0m6psgXgHZQeReJRCfL5wR6dNQM=w800-h453-no)

Finishing up the custom wire harness.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/KUT_QIJGZpJPn1BvvJOFsuoITXJcMMZEcZq7WTjxEAV-abth_sQvHCMEbs_jZNAUdetrrJAP2nhY9KEVLsK3A85Ozykdi4Wsmq6RnlWi8ztGHTaXYyxhF_sk8BuQonwt6JQpPzV9sGe_v8KHI1o4raC68Moe6L70u78b648UmGPJDGbrvpGTLnbNXsXXyhvWvY-PFJODwLROziS_cNupaS66VQqtQSOJTerczWb2kIwYeylMZ6rCITz7I2Taj3-579MNdmkJUDcCVYWHOKQgdr9pvmX99i49qxZ5_oKSMh5_irK2egqiqcsJXSr1Pu6aOw-aQwHs--j37hiqA4NI_M_h9Y7pVpi4u5UHmh4GL1VWa6S25oDoBEHGGC5VCAtX_8kEdrVNgzQhcMyFO20g1RQst9EwntMQOwja59T4k8bP1JQC3R3cpTK8rXC1xydkFvVjkXMxiwpnk3a_csRenuu5gyw1Ey98SaenKYA9VcgMjYlAyZ5cAvMZqc_2OsvP0ScTGmnQvhiqnof7O9SMXwpMkLOat7voWHroLRihk0XiceITAYtwcki-lCSQzCGzetvT7e4oPnTsI61IIkMs2ujZglAzedW2vBEHq27XkQxa6Rya7SVw9Zs36F7Eur9-HpnmVM8W1uZ_9735LjvwDYy4goqM-cmO=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 21 July 2018, 10:57 AM
Fortunately, the sheet metal under the insulation wasn't rusty.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/L26RzPqt1StPe9Y4ryAWBly3W2Rpll9VoMo356o8h35OxpckhTJB4RkmLvewfaa4XafXNq6WYIhs6NyU8keeHC23o-wnfxLvfDVSLZn0klS8pntDTpQ_ufdXPGmu-Y6yBcCc5FT25xNytbtZdPwg1jrK3XCPqkTL6_wV6xX9mX0kA_nBlp4O8mqleO_idJRUbMJUksLbQ_AN4qhKgOM4xow9MMJHMghSIThr5vGRJS_-kiiOINo7O5NJqWXq1W97SDJkN_ipi8VX8qbUZKPk4X0lTMJolFYnRtOZBVTofoNK0kr-swQ2YiRbanlL7dJkxIr6gsO_IJloX1sFopkiueRU2NfANm9FusGDeetL0E-lQn5Amr1im8HmW2c4Q2rcBnntDQgo5oU6KijkSHVKCHdz_kitFyKHjK_SG17t_f9Uc5s3u4E1D5vT7lSjVMzOSe0BlVFA27pfInpvwdw6d3oXId41jqvPrqC95Ir8DKojXPmKd1qwLnXPqdY2wonxrNxdnz2-DnGocHE8uPKH6EQYFUgD079eySSRVRV-tVCDQkmoR8KnE3WHRkG-PeJXeF1Q9sRhxqwmbhkrnE03nBNABfa-PbQ6gIDjUGde4vknGN723_EhXnZ3vVp1Wm-8B-BOiFHSTZkPKnNWAQjvLPsxoZpAqS89=w800-h453-no)

I installed new rubber grommets for the climate control case drains.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/92JVZik4UwicNSBb3WI3wPEH4LWuij_KW3DKNn9sq_m_pBDh5wSdCF8xUYkvD117l7jPDLCqBRJiVNARnj8Gi3RObIeKOPv-dTFcBiiw4IfzRpowcbcA17u9uqoUEXmQAA-PY-j_rU-8qsc8uLDG4AolMOGKt60A3tRVlZZazWUgxO4oyAlZyl-Bg9NwjH-0XC6Xo2eLtl4RzE2PPftJUNQ7TG7oRhU6q1h_7pDi_2pRuGfdFuJFd5vvZn10N2Xx3bwTtWjDftR8pqBCe8bnd1_RUg5ZKrcrdlfdTa5gmfNBb6Ywvj9IV59rYnud1GPrIQKmnKehW_C83wD9sL9MRPLlFreFdOZONzaloTtOeGNxNeF8a6HJh8-amOm93e8jRkluqwpTEcBVHTGEssRaqK629ON6BW_bED5yCogfZYshXGHQszLzJCZGVwHaeIASdtDnbvwkUnQa16m_p6mKtzvSv0jt18Eb4-xOLmoSElFmOe-vzT8iJB1Z3gzBpiFvKvJeBXinYqSpP09IFdkU4g_yfOMxbT81Jf5sXxdTL8cwYxiiZAMj1muREe-weAcEGVr_HQiG-rAMH1l2kNOi7bxfPUELSAxZMzE3vwrNc71xFQKE28Nz_wwz260H6QQ-2VbwW99qUJgBYudJ3NyPou3eUBTzx4zo=w800-h453-no)

Don't use Rubber Renue! I had four rubber drains that fit on the bottom of the climate control case that were in good condition, other than being a little hardened at the bottom. I decided I would soak them in Rubber Renue, which is supposed to make rubber soft and supple again. It destroyed them, so now I have to buy new ones.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Y1Fp5InAm6IkMkrRSrDCJ1HAgemFI_FSqXnWVTn6hWFSrYa9O_4CuZbdb-t51vJ7m2RnOL7DE3Q25MWSfKxrBwJUubeLYwjxrrzw_s1LrGp9H8JSNBWO9WQHMrzk6oF-WsultIgkmpa5PAuegN5aKhC3P8Ius9BT9IbcTkE8QXuxmLMApSxsrj9NdLzwPVKvP79ppjRVEqoPgxFgucckMCIG7UjjAXmrLZ7d6rVtXpBwD7HGBl0TunRjJQ5PLKhw8PdtgG8iHfORaDhKVknyzqQneeoH6NRgtS-g7xhqyPOZorTf0cCYtmYgOjxN3kCMNaqGD6UQz9BRnT1XVLvR9PE2e3uK6Fc2k4upU34PUWp5CQVbbwnUUWqgTiD0D0Q4eDVFtMieNWEurq-nJQIL79TqoWxekUZTpt62WIqyccOypPhqHi7q2mwoHruKThoACjqrcGqQ-ETupAiujyWiw9BzOoQa-htUPnbMwYGUlReQJXLsIbjklJ_H932J7HYh9ePInlEmZC31jWEvnPYmVyeOyq3dKXg6YPtkyDGCc4REG2GUfyZs5K6ROAt87ZKG6qAlf98VohUJkMnB0tMmq94Pbc1HQBq4_nJR6v0uNa0F1OJpTLFMJtvc_yYXG9HJGIwVpl0pavvy7Bi2CGR8c6t79gj4D76g=w800-h453-no)

The climate control case is in, which is a big milestone. I should be on track to getting the air conditioning working and the car put back together so I can drive it to the Helper Arts Festival in Utah next month.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MYQoJWJwiIYt7yVf83FD8inry4fA0H3leEJ2NxxO8rhuF8AjslP59eXaOOSP7jaWn3sWEPEjInMNf-TET8IKpyoDLJRZHq9BEE8AheyLB0q5Dzg2o1brHXe34LrJdxQtwpvUTiIrSrBnW5t8etwUPRmh4T3woKap69ggo0urNuaXx9X5oVboZPFuVGLW9xYna2oBp-O-aaq66owH57EvJuXby7frZXtIwPlNyxNO8zkwlQCCtr-tQLXB36cFZHQFh5i-f28RErR16GIEno-qQsZCg1tfy3y0QOS7J7KMvWFIH2rVr0erK2T7kxoVD_BEKUe8e7I1DkBJDJWvRN5VbYRQErWoanqlQjSZB6W6CPvbz8VujaDTnoNlT2J6X965T-xgw8UmrYUNex-70IjDc23LQNBA_DbF4vl3y22muAtYW7j7zqm78bXyX_FjMpsrl3O67paUAwzPDvU4uzFU8m3BXggJ1WsHiOBgjqQXRoPWL7Rl8lIP-cookkLQ7kHfJxv_LmsCRhG77A3MBwIrWXH6thMsGGl69SyzsdVkDbKlh2PU2MosSOmwsDqRu-mXQz4_6sR4nefX_LiI4Cy3PdkTsJBocioj2fVNKxoJSiPNqppqnJWPmwWeWBn7A0Lyxw_7fi-3SulC2opKNaP-XWyMP-hNUboM=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 21 July 2018, 11:04 AM
The blower motor resistor was rusty, so I soaked it in Evapo-Rust, but unfortunately when I was hosing it off, a piece of insulation that goes on the bimetallic strip/contact points got damaged. I carefully removed one from a spare, and unfortunately it peeled apart, so I glued the layers back together with clear POR-Patch seam sealer.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/QvbKsurPRhHfwntcjBvBli753LP86wHHRKy5IyHIUF9pdezj0uplTVtXtl03uFnsYtSuYtfWFwrd9pgRzcxkt6UiWoFTqlCOtvEZc-29GOtjcGsiSwSs7UNA6I0RTIVa6c8KNaGfr0d_Stecv3dnkHOyRJspADjG8pte-1-DUtOakusALzvLGRlkh90VVE0Uyi3OPRkQH-FApblxYSkqkdTN5-ELCIjt19OFYqpnotxedHW7EyX5HTNJaLqgeadNH65wnNkSCt8rd1JyrDXSnzWbTNmXSCaNEo1tQkV5PMGbX9erkAjTA0J-ZVjJOor1yQuoDCe8Qr91bgYab_kWfK-icdMG98vDDPYoU6o3im6S-J0HHDydZeATCwa6WLjDsFPKbuBnJDkOShAn8hIHyj5BQE1nXonDVuDYVQaAAB97dXsXp92pIE4Di3zkKomuJu6PwEApuBuUFFhoQ-dJ_8Q-vFU1uXuFT0weMCEbyvFewbhFoMwIViC2yZXyLatqWOngOiqtmcXewEQX1vDAs5tTyoDzTGxYLnAwRrMmgvRqweD1cl-6Di18iRmgtfNOAbQmdFWS4voa0bAuAAtlEhazBxh_9iLNBBpK7wgOAKapXgF1CYWAofeZ6ZZuQOzf5M9zx_tLGdOMkb2BBKZheNSZwObZ7JmR=w800-h453-no)

Here is the blower motor cleaned up and lubricated with Zoom Spout Oil, something of which I had not before heard, but it's supposed to be the proper oil for lubricating electric motors. The rubber bumper on the wire harness was dry rotted, so I painted on a few coats of Leak Seal to hold it together. I painted the outside of the resistor housing with silver paint.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/i_9Py4UDwTnDGGtce9a5bR4Ug5Zzt_YrxrNnBYkBuSA9hxhRuBEnPnxoAi1h-GSjDPtRRxLjU3sEajLw26Yyag_nzWxArxVUec8MJ6wMwMdOupGmSEMGjXZ429_l0TCDBNJ4AJ8Upqmdz1GMxlQ43JraRQz-YEa8smEAFEpP9L5ct-wrpFjHsXOmu38nVju82qJtQmggzgyX550AR28M571ujrue1o4wqX-ntZAbMpgf5Di-mkXUInvIJ73kJpOqchBknHVPaEdRxQjznFu_M8feykqvK094GJWzvdYbQkbQk8JzuMPEMllYmaIsvhdUxKRKlwFUuExK4lDUydRu8Kx_mPPECitUqrxpc6XvqaGT3UEYvJybwhDERXYhLi1GHmi643rANLQqHbpL_OIxOaYNmQDWMudKkHhNssM02BQrPZBTHeVksfrxCIeiQRWuNMb5MqmDv3KK1Mu8VQzZHN6I1fY5bRRMi6J5Sa9C7xtMf8tTbz-Y1-UpBIchiKwfhD77Mw9Fu_m7WaQ6H5WpHAa-2EBhhlKigEKWoIP6oSHoHUfPp_xJgsqCn9-b8QbWLLInZQBRnq7lkiM4kX_LfsiiR9n2sBrhQUReCJyoSULYjM8xLhIa7ouXBNjLltCglKKRmLDCLcvfCxICxnLV3YAANfn7GgSK=w800-h453-no)

Carefully sliding on the bimetallic strip insulation. I don't know how necessary the insulation is, but on the later production resistors, the bimetallic strip is very close to one one of the coils. Apparently, the purpose of the bimetallic strip is that if one of the coils overheats from something such as an aged blower motor drawing too much current, it will bend in one direction, being that one side is brass, and the other side is steel (which expand at different rates), and the contact points will touch, which will cause the blower motor to momentarily run on high speed, giving time for the coil to cool.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xhlGGSfAlSm7qF-3qfhuh02wOWYqTvdSJDjxD5RoPzN0qA0Xv2tOPQhsNQpxyOroRL9q0QG0rhZNQIO8lFH5CP4SU9q0Bm28YluewffqIj0TEDe6jyYsNIRPFub0ewBJbtWaIO8p6xMrbkjRhNVisnxZ_T5VC9uw86gMiajOu3NX_nOKYfQqKgsO3q2a_OmBQ-7tc1d2ZDCjt8HKQFCxLNq2ipYV3Mk5FzAYLaozXgFkEYjlkQ4TqvvgkWL5qMi8KfJkMEhruT8G7ugexmQKKFaH_5Enqs-LW7r76t3Fr_k5nclrxluLv01bqBQmA7npIa2wEEglrMzYvFSo5tUoKhT2qWC0tUUs-6sMvV1DdwzMQikBNG-UMWOm0Y3pKWYDAHR5k7Hfkt1eMZ3wGBe0oqmDHNFhWxjYVaDm6ITkgO7onr-lczIPwGhfEzlFZKJFL9FRrcMRh-9TuhoVcAX3mClkBe4RUjWTeZxsN6-phUy69HSqCkDg_bVbLSYb1ZCBWl1n_HO18YduwhmBVrVaVE4b677NPLV0T-1vm0iqT253-vqlcJJNv5zeCJpfi3o83_YgP68Ow2RJU7uSFzAYkl1tCKPSWvBZ1Fp9Cyyop80R7zAuTmb1P3AkcPbSHFS_QPHWyeCJADQXKyNDsNBOz013OJn6WfFA=w800-h453-no)

I found that a point file actually fit in from behind to access the lower half of the points, and the upper half was able to be accessed from the front.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/28VaWzISAtGw2ayud3fj03iMQ8z_Rxjvr-sXTI-lrqH2dsEUSy3_AQlutOwg78eb5knIhNwxwY5qT1-oG64X0rl6E1RV2lUks2n9KbMeLH8OTxkghYSZsico9akzV-Ky8Mm2gU6Y_BRD23Aoa6D4pDueMFiihrdoyxqfezk59KEKBuYBiATLo5aNfvnVMP-aZ-u9gUHr-pH2NBLJw5gO4-N01VuzAAhOLHPNBZS_Bc0HBTZAXqpQHNEG0fNnDjJwwhHor0WhZoPu8MmqgsT1E1kqHvtalZYGqRs2DJTZj7YIW4C3MCpuODlZTI54I8RahNA8lSUzJ6Vysk8R8Nu5kq9RtMKAfaIx24TD1Xk6MNWMBY5XkdyzubXGCmwrls_lqhJ4bguvGMJze6KH9P8hBr6pxmOODVSVSYRB5TT2HR9StidQfhqf0WX2BTz-iKBfQuEMYtap4QqTapci2Xro_QBnAxacdevtxs8a3HmBFIxp8N4TlAqduzC98RYUvsTYC5QChHAA_tBWdEc2Ll389z2BoCGYf-Li6KAyI1e_Plca-3qroGToLrf5c9di_bkhQRWDC9H6NF9ETRTNIn_VknmJM9Osi6bItA3jrszufr3uy9BSgLqJgnlC4zDe8VN4s_peB6UnMJnAQ77t86vXxY3T4-ASSY9w=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 21 July 2018, 11:10 AM
I used butyl windshield installation tape to seal between the blower motor and case.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HMNjb_xQHNVgVhsP_M4E6N5VYanhogfUeKeCczn4jTXZRSJTCMxzzsd5S9HTZuU6L5d7IyvdsP1nwHMPTPAFj2gIb1ih4n8LRmpVD-Am0RSmJTgp0ked2AzqqzEPtSrpOd1pLD_KtNB2kluzJUxRZD0sI04aXod-SkO0MNn_1amwEdYKdZZjNIwnCG57O53-IQItAoKSLJMkquPulCUH0QllISPgtJZp6jtBTharPwYKQuwr_XA_bQNEnnO_GGuDZGSdG8CHD3f1ydT24ZIc0cYFINCvmSoGqXX9K7d6vDjK5RDtRLKjiKRLYOIPeg1yWpk3_Nv0bkbGeJJuQA6kxGXwsF76OF6kRajFtx8dxJgMqRuj_-hYkLu57E7EfozYpOD4VVR4DRlLtJGVX0nJTfeZdZTAiX2prHV07R5v-UQ9Q1QAUzsE_-9mv4a3Jds-RFQAU0vYKokdzbs72aSECm5lMeWm7o1LuhNshESetGKRt-_eSA1h53w8ckiXcT32GxrSW9S9VNdTF2o9TCayE2AcSBla7JKs70Rtc-ku4KkdAvO_-BXh_mnLO7VqsrGsenLx5BI1w_kdWk8Q6oaaokc1QPxynhfVbmnfQ42zJb4kCwtMEpdbo9quhMy_1kBvs17LI5j7qnT14Xkw40TT7T7zn5Bd8i3M=w800-h453-no)

The automatic blower motor that came out of my car is on the left, and the customized manual one I'm putting in the car is on the right--much simpler!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lsquzt-s3bZ5SElaCfjncSboMBQwdQWd7bJV1O2UDpl1ddTQTL8IfchaUFlGTAvQ1NHFEhCxb17g00YMiWAwR23uFb_J5aGuj7ROMfXuXcDmo9LxlkKXnnJyLAXSHy44ZlHmMhdzizp6M3W_lIRfxKwfSbscJKEJ6ZOnvCtXqf_ALPXhUcXWEYeZxMjM33S7NFCLkTCMdGS3BI979Mk150KTJNsMLb3NfkP7Q0NcmPn-7VMtS4q-Sh4y_AYTVWbewkyZ-SLJmh62Co42E-pEHLQALNhso5-iexYff26qL67xoBu2utBXivcLsOadpNE8EaHgJ0o1-PgCX-kZ5QC1RwfhfGyrSAdlQX-Ya2vUsKiVMsAptv715Fn8ZSW6p1fchemnFe0wSVosrfeX9rT4b5D4lmQAKdioNV9UAaGhx0_zR7Ca5776sso_alNjsHtTb3PTow2luSLxFEevAERioLLUJUwgMziLah6OpjJ8yifVOA2eBKZ9zlaUmdOSyI6WZ_I-a-_2ltoqvY5nzzB_LUiG3dazKgHxlciJEmRd4ObKHLhL-zDdL8fhwAmqZrUB_92rJyYr9ijrfutoMoYUIaQBTpi3zhFAYcIuHW17RY_6GczsifaW0EII8Fhkm1acofTzNd-mwqDeXqP-21Nc3l2HhETcKAia=w800-h453-no)

I added 1/8" thick high temperature resilient silicone foam with adhesive back to the top of the case where it contacts the cowl.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8j9jNSlu72rNuDtupyb2Qy3APVpbWuSrDJjtuEyL59264SpSWFkduVpqeFp0BqpUeHWDUtZNJkiekSiLlOcPbspIQCFVr4B-BVCvQ6f3dmkjYPy0afzPHFD_Rq6bLvXVxZ2cAQDXBef62mcquJfcC4eeWAnaQCm7ey6hmLbsNeM8B4mi2ETZAMrJTOPoXvr6JTkBusdJ2Rsu8bm9fpUpmFvVf0aMtwRbEVYV3jQvMv2YWD5znP3pyQ2pLYs0I6aE2MQY_Goxj12V4rA2tH7FkgM8aTQDRRY8vHBG3grQy-A7Z9wNAuXQKsnbcapoAexycRB4yOIi-NASEWgOXxeqjYaLIKRPzFtY75i3sWlVqG0Bw0d0a6IF8qcVGauyAUh81UPq0jtcHymTnOaNkfz9gV1zY78HIK5TOUSM0jelE5xnhh2cavP2dhzv_DLKhuU1GxtBM4JVcCpD61wsG4bRKjTT3uBaZ1AUTQFWCwAvxpmrmHWjiYGkkl6Bmp-Dca0tkYPPjMiChoi8a7Z1K6fAzKQmHejHeGEKQAO-VuAnP9f-CKPtztnqG5H5fYzqwVjSTauwiU_-o_HBkm4uiLTqN64iMc8e_61M8mcFIYQDBCB7jBsIBBUdDIqNtPSgxS3KMl9xiENxZI_4nth1iclpgiWr6MT_npEk=w800-h453-no)

The blower motor is installed and works on all four speeds with the dial switch.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/knWZsYmT2n-lj7C3RPU5XWL4f19LT9remni8yTBGMEWkCayOrjwTz1maIjTu0pEE0JJPtcnw7p_LC3ZJ-4sL1wQmzQxAthc3d1drZbq-SSBEMONLylnM18KQzBmpfqqApfu9hzyAOYz181xNZKTmzdPGjsW_elnLrITUyWY6wdz0fpI11-BciMOsBrlpEC2D2Lf9g4wB6OG0cfN8VOJxqahxaRuVDvbFStRyVqLzDxK9JrKN2rnU0WiSkaW4MQoYjnjfrSzW4BZfuQzg5HBw7mDU4wfe-LZE25_FobjTnlBshAzZF9TN4W5SjPbXX080Xn9GFJMYM7mTDOqwJHIUyhvQPpGuuG5BCq83JGpmf--9ZX3gNmB2JedgFbzXhZgRzhADJGk2NFUq4BvphHXkkh11NVgkOFpZTkMJ4qGqUzQKTE0dSkPBzuY9rY1ffF40S-Ar5rNFuibZjcgThNrN0lzooU6RCq8REMFC9W53GxM-KNnC1na7Wnc8vbb7QSDZAULkincoxqCVbal16neDEID3N1E7PbfsOW9AdYxhUfn8ZThDll5cm07DWWMD2cb6ScXS7HtUVfgK4R0vG70iVAqgy-2yJFjfjQyz5N5B3147s_o8vCXT5FsFE2C7_Wo43T6EhncIFOUqXLwALAHaqrWuFralJkYu=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 25 July 2018, 09:55 AM
I'm starting to work on my car at night because it's been about 115F during the day. Even the nights are in the 90s. Staying up all night working on my car destroyed me the first time, and I did hardly anything but sleep for the next two days. Last night I got some more things done.

I cleaned out the cowl the best I could by hand and hosed it out with water. There were a lot of pine needles in the cowl between the blower motor opening and the right side door. I blew that out with compressed air and reached up inside to touch up some small rust spots with Corroseal. Then the inside of the cowl got waxed.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xfsxCmu3lYenhdSCKZReOlr1hmb1XLMVy6jRitFg9Z49fNBT4vYsnk4MfV9VOmdJSDYTXC6FQF_zPAXml-LWp2T-g20ty-igiz1SzMrziRw173fiyrnupY62DpFEkOrdGG6H9zJiSoaMv-a9ULve5mw1Z7p03h-ZPCkd1-q0v8_CNVd2Pk6n5iSDiNQUXPVqZBRjxRdT_5whgqGzW15sQCU2Skn6lzBKo9b8iWPf3SRl2EQnkSpkZP-19of-N0HJGTahofMt3h1p5Oe0MczRIj-W3G28rFGNdrNuPT7KnNttVQLvKLrA2syWjI17qUTFvQv9LRalNQDgdjh76Zy8COmrUwUYbm_FkrB0OhicRbgfYtgB-O4giKmRSD4VlnYR8SgJhrZYAIVBtM0eLTnzV5Vy_6QCYszvx_SPj_lh27zS0FpnL3G-CPtUyYBYEldj-dpFqe7ES7XLTABiMZCJ4ukkUdwunKO3fhvaz8wIq8NY-Cui0QqTba2-x0MZyqWk0dI37X6jaDRgtlsxDwZzRtNxyUf55DueoZOtvC9xOwbI9Ix9LrILIZOsBoqkLgf_lA1NCbNA7lsnnG7QtHV4Az3KxLX2fCiQRH1GOxgllamD3WIAmEr71QumR_MCg4pbMoUhQvYWUvihDwmaXizn36bBPSPevvTa=w800-h453-no)

The drip rail that goes inside the cowl got cleaned up and butyl windshield installation tape applied to it since the foam had deteriorated.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VctRN_dugwvHros3p96X7-ZFX2ExLee5NyPoJRwpQGhr_t5A1AXfb4X1fipqTF0W_FBulOdpyRunaBNcrdQicy6_GfkmFkJKQEjDhDdqIK1vB2Wt1V1DyWjFzKZ4-rpBgxV-S578cuzKzCJsFGTeQb6Ge8Wo6i2WB7gquK_vt-iqFzR5hClsVJgMY4gHzwVE-H3CufoARYLBm82lGUOINs1taT5DdcRabe04NtQ31XLdkfcj4wwe4rNXhFkFkUc1du7hp5eHGY1FbBHsJZaMoChaIFRrbnCTVyzwAppkMnDyCKeqUqDcx3rV9NW3ecWwhGJSGwCGZoOGWK1AdyKzE3ig1w-YiAvUcL8QVJKk7JGJm421xxH-AjlcK8b9NdFL7z81YDHmlerPpQdjE60eKxPucWa1EgUpNt9DE4ciLwzl78j5PZwW2ClHKXZ4YT5TrxCToKAd7shbZB_0gfTMlbXpTjuAZyskQ0Vl9CfwGtD2AxYSJ6h_nOxyOLdZ3Lxn74qgfgJtHeaaDUQy1ZmLIGhBr5o4-6RPeU3umeJs_9ae61A3ROsU99Fnas2aAjH9OoQ-LSqYH2wfrJ8Lli5DbJT22LYD9jJkOssq0Uvn01IZbDv5XLt-YPNOQOeNial9kD2akylB2gtwP2opp-VPRoG1SmpbWEpN=w800-h453-no)

The drip rail and the windshield washer nozzle holders are installed. I removed a bunch more unneeded wires.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/SSnF6vLddoFmtptRCdZ3yAHk6bYNKFk2EngD1WhhXPdTbshzThT42nwhIcOy5dEzPCmIm0oG0_NhNmtDp2tUvoW_-uc56C_WQCOYgtM7X11PmNxwmuDuN6BQJ9dewfAU8ZPYf_nipDKrR1mw9OROp5SdUja8Rgqds8c4XJJ_-AJZGi9KtM_py0n4KNh39Fi3ONjqbbx8kA2suIybdn1yRsusH9bEzzOm4Fi_hVlLGcwFuQlckhI41yH2PbguIPXWZkk2HMjZfcLrkgJy-LpcIP6iA6hdIfmWoZ7mZhIIoTZj0P_P28k_9izEr85oOTQRAOWs-6ZiaByvmyNXcmqRQHYTGiEibkwj5ZoUV5t4HRA-BGDr70f65TiJxrtz3oMU8M90y-9gu0BC6gl35wbVk_G0Ltq2j3cH2vEq-Mg8xZRySOGbXVkp8bIVA_fMxS3U4QmVS-norfd-jo_Ut-NBr7fu-ErZnbMQ-5uDH0ZR7yqEtiEQjx2F6_gPkS1FQGZR3YWK1EkeLnzEB7zgBK-YqHzPRE0lN0vW5GUj33oYC1oQjVvwYgOy4yTYM6ifUkS6hh9vKIph_3ahyHvG41R3M-0rnJNaxGzVTn0NjS_16Eejs9Nr35ki_WnKfr8xCsjQSKk5U7ekkXtFwSDp0c3qWj0TxkNAtuQJ=w800-h453-no)

The new climate control case drains arrived from The Classic Center. If you'll remember, I've been trying to get the firewall grommet for the high pressure air conditioning hose for a few months now. The last place I ordered one (MBOEMParts.com) never sent me the parts I paid for and is completely ignoring me. I ordered one from The Classic Center and they said it would take 3-4 days because it had to come from Germany, so I said it was fine to wait until the grommet arrived before they shipped my order. 4 days later they shipped my order, and the grommet wasn't shipped with it. So, what was the point of that? Now they are sending the grommet by itself so I have to pay $9 shipping on a $1 part.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/F5Ha2Y0rCMwBsRvIOXFZj_wYggt2DE-CPIftgFSx_BxMZKczvMlcYobsDHPrZMklqEcjarAugCmJNGTgU9l2s716ZHih_swoVf_pDejtqNZagSOrE9izN7eQ1y2HYS1LW2fBct9-Nd4PIMKAAX9_JVUaWybrPzMK2p_rjAZDCx65MEUvhMfMpQ39ewFkCmzvsmg-3cKitzbDU96W-dqarXIb0UQQ27DD2wgN-drCTWvDvIesdYknteTPyFva_W0a5u0nJB81bUm37zUVDT3KQ5kgcMdxt49X5omNEDXVMwuHTrT81uEe91AD4-xXHpjoKrNAKJdw7AAktnjrQAHzgyLk5D4hDJn5LLGTto_uWC0C_YqXWtNbTrH33RDrpk5RFyRrrn7F_keeOnQWGwfe0bH1K_ahMEyOYv_2sotijs9jyNgTj35NfeDjSAyJCQEi0t2tDQ3_ky7cbrjoYyNtUvrJMcrvFIj2Y59kAtW3cu9BLwBHj7evCh31Lm854-AxjK2elDQ4L8FHYqDOu4ldOtvL7PPjZ5GsLs4QIMAN5S--DCwMgzV3H81Bjat5VtE6ayB1ykd3MzdpUk557pYAw7ioMxBWnT2kBpuUkunTka_xXLARwdWXsnJ-CffvOYutpEFaJ2ryEBU7lTNBU7XMeHsv7bFupkoQ=w800-h453-no)

The new drains are installed.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dtnAbCO4oIqkgQpPtl_0AwSHkJEbtK3QCHJtuQKLT8XXn-qa3lNjlWvHbuYiNTgfHbrswYtR_EirUgoKKekdf9jpm6iV5RMl7P5uCHp1CUeihh1uczV46N3jG-U8HhoAHA_cNGcklG8c6DSkln5kthnGtONosITUHVCc0_1QspfYNDIDkqDHb8mMkCbMOlT0hJcXhk_e6S2PFP3Y8TdgelAm8Z2IIvWxZpyaNiP3KqXFgB8CMBHrJfWJEvPQ8IBFsg8wkHokSEmxQhnA7YP5rtokI3NRSrI2Ex12NA7jqNlWwfRQnFnKFfMPjycraVnR0o3cTFDwCkr3adQAnkHhyB2qe4b-jNC1O-Xtix3cOa0zZ5jlidQpnp7xmdybXKfFdF7wDZA0nUgojem5_EUKu1FIslto05N3F1PCY1amlNTUVsAOFWDZJJsUIR40pEZoY8CS2tAC8lQ0N4AgsPLkenpLiWJK1FYzwwGrFzU2ma4MfXiEqmKOjWimTZKu8M9xPsEAD8UjRbV9PH-GmFgtunrnIElKLDvukHuQxDpCQhvTnl4Dnbh_S9hcUIvdTzDwRtN7Ok-Fo3IO4r6CI5VL23g_BByA5UNnshFWicg-E3vPIoxtrhxHCVaAm_NeklziDIbxJNOGNydroMx-1eBmDIH6sQZEURT7=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 25 July 2018, 10:26 AM
I've never had success soldering wires before. I read up on it and decided a torch would work best for small automotive bullet connectors. This Bernzomatic unit works very well. It was worth every penny I don't have.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3gA3PlQsvnxPBriVtmWIH5zQqkFgGZvxuKCdXBA5rrNPeP3Ht36drZSCD_qJGM1yV2W5nYkN70XVaBhlfpB2yR3ZsP27lb2I6bt-DyUfAnfCyeXTCUZ-rgxuhUcoJkOuEH_2aVKbaKQ6MYsFzBrW277202gCxMMLxCPfPEpqAa0EZ0F0yehdZMbm8tCM4oeUYaYxjgSzxmpi0V8I9hP0HsqRIytWZGTSjA2SFmNtnt8kg8CJcwS5qLiHLdbiUNzQZAoIZGF621PY_dNKBBgq9x1M5tf69Brk_dMmXcZ1kwT9fZafd2zXJUyKDW9KIUH9VBxyfChMv_0WNNFjSKhCFKvtu2jEM7OVxClweGEGVY4AgcnvqYJKcOwcCD2UmeLgko0RNgv84-EBmhQC8jmuqZ-r9bbjpb8MdncI3GG3frjXjNwy4G-XtvsnnQYXS6qWbwqa9f0-vcaTXcOTRnjiRbbyfU-bJjYHKsMh4oS3LIdkVKQTzIWiKEO-JS0iS7-bnBldurnwYnY7tPEVwhP29xFD0-8ccJAhcOQzlUE0hgMFrvXtxTRLPcq9Jc0BnbuB_JkOEfCC0rgEqIVoEbSCpWGgDiLrg3KsvCh_0KLDryXUjA29Tl8UFDCpftZDoTMuAW5JRCkCuJibHZdnJjjHRbE0JI_jxcTe=w800-h453-no)

The climate control illumination wiring is interesting; on my car the power from the lighting potentiometer exits at spot 15 on the connector through a grey wire with a violet stripe and makes its way down to the emergency flasher switch. I guess it's supposed to come on with the lights, but the bulb inside must be burnt out. Interestingly, the shift plate illumination is full power and doesn't dim with the potentiometer. Then a grey wire with a blue stripe branches off of the lighting wire for the emergency flasher switch and lights the four climate control bulbs.

On a car with manual climate control, the wire exiting the instrument panel is grey with a green and a violet stripe and it goes straight to the climate control lighting (which also has four bulbs plus one inside each dial switch). Then a grey wire with a violet stripe goes from it and lights the emergency flasher switch.

Removing the automatic climate control illumination wiring from my car and then adding the wiring from the manual climate control would have been simple were it not for a few inches of the wire where it connects to the emergency flasher switch being cut off, and even if it was intact, feeding it with the connector attached would have probably been impossible due to how tight the wires are squeezed into the sheathing.

I cut the grey wire with violet stripe on my car up by where it plugs into the instrument panel. I decided that I would remove the wire which had been cut on the manual harness, and solder the wire from my car in its place, since it was the same color and already inside the sheathing going to the emergency flasher switch. I heated up the bullet connector with the torch so the solder would melt and then pulled out the wire I didn't need, and then inserted the wire coming from the emergency flasher switch.

I drilled a hole in a piece of wood and that did a good job of holding the connector still while I heated it up and swapped the wires. The end result was the harness ending up exactly as it should have been, and with the added benefit of not having to thread the wire through the sheathing on the way to the emergency flasher switch.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/QVv0GZJS8aqZjkz0J3ZR-FxtB2vlRyIwHwIaff1j1D6JfIlWm2ao3lXj4u7SWAxr_uxI21nytF86dJ3-ql1nP2z-LEXyPebPkLusprYzPpZ7yuqo0ymBxWft_ZT_ODw39TgUgDKRyePPkycl80J8D03SDJ1G2qkysLkUnvAwpjdermKeZEO3Ptc82tKWOo4pme5HVOZyQ9zM1rW4u4_V1CwOKrEDLPwYHwaa2GSFtxKkCkSSLABlX3eAZZV74yC1uc3Bb_vkMxyBwhEXM4_Udd_ZNInXmUp96KevMIePV8_VJJgzwSaLiwvtKTSC_UwaA7SV0by4R0ZjxJHJcJo30l42IVhQVK6K0MvYVHMD0TDFm0yDwHH1sZWai1jroFHO1fj7W5ksL7JcGO_rhE9BRGaC2CyiwpOCQvQz7WeHeHME1VtNIsIEHH56ASd-EKQSuRCLHBlrXGBpiiepQyZnifIaxBCtcpTnyit2Uan98iTsuXn79HlVXnmceLLNmacjxZSAoJ5Cup081vEqJciVHjipJC0hUBfNEbO2ZDLBwuppEUKJ9J_uspUdTNF393H9LNz8wZMWBEuwLfh07KO-lv62bd8ynbhhwDb0h0fgACWCGhQOSsj1N5-veL4ZC25bmXMvOi907D8QyRPZChtTx6E2o0tN1wmc=w800-h453-no)

My first attempt using the torch was successful, and it looks just as good as it did before. A bad situation has been corrected! I am very happy that I didn't take the easy way out and use a butt connector.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/LNB7qLGeY_YEJ-Y3D7oF8HTFygrrhj3Xzy2oqdCGlu7RsBW-6P38TE0bY4_YU7PSiyGxFHvrxGB5d2xZL0s_DIpdnKOmwBPWWf_Ph4dkI2HHdRSBfUbbp7h9zOHgcy85j_2aFqJbIl4z3sDl8PGs8OVEJwwXj3NuwKocx4q8zd-BpzYwWepJq-iaW5UGzMqExHorRq08A2TyI_MHPYqJtJnigWpqFZkmcasW25i-QFVP52MtqLLQNsmWDzRLT3FRr15d9afK0S743x-rfigI1PVTe4rO-IOmV3Doiz5lZoO0LjHdSTsyFaTY8mvA-gBXc-_38heA4Kl1YZN7z6tgGdsZK3lL1VlJ3tVTPaG7sCH-El_Ig9DoqEw80SuzSi7dwcyt-2tvrm0GCzUOBcFsQg4yvY8ZvQLO9uX875rWmakF-VnDzWAs2f4epuSAVS3L0BjQj213kJLy-EjJ5TWnvq1SwRbyojtuVwCrbrV7bvLkKQIxIbrZg70-WtKn4GviZ_QBg0KG-v_ZSrenT79tsD9daBcMyXh8nZrVgU0xEMRMhafOUyMNy0lwKtt7At9N5ijriDFzYu1QPj6b_UpPutstofdA1QxQgHLt-LfyIt6WjDtDqVowyh3qEBmftTyUMRlNRwmn48Um6j-q9G6Cp89GBu16jK5N=w800-h453-no)

The plastic covering installed over the connectors.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tlCRoQjKj08Q1GGKAPMsIvfrn6q9krpEQe36hbUlFOMpmvGdUsBs0lp2npEGRgki1-6EvXh5Ag2f2uMHjCk8i-XZVt1bYSKSF_IKVWA07PwrmmSylnfOLvkm3QosBnkpI9Ky5seq5wO-OgXaFs68jYY9IsTnIny1WxInz_Lig1_4aMiN-TA01rzrFxnuw2ic4PyfqKEDFARhxCz7nlh6W0ViP5OWxG9DCSAXPL68uToWVY9BX2ZOE04tJNmZaS2HhFWO6tksskstgnYAEg8LUd6bHN5-TNPwa9RYCmWsmMUDcOX_roBEqO2DtDAMsQ2HjzGRI1cqaYP-VrwKiQfzf5Hjy0DveoUNfWg1z0KPezzDgmZYw9DHUpUO95lbdekVYxvdVYqUCDNXA_27mRPGY5qzRyXRb8KRTJFzNcwi0mLxM8T96z4OeWrD6eNGV5kpWelTaW_VLjtgvBrqcccWDkqOm0uAWRJPysJdMEB0OJMmObMj97T_37PUAAEcV1kCMSPKNOUS6_DujTorgtJh6Ryyt151n2tyz8O8mn1I7kt1e2yB0AKlFtgVYT8revwsvjvLapu7s45iMURoY4vlJJkQVFkMpXQgMu7rXxMnrzDyBAJD58zvmsGZpc-_Fz2Htz5vwThcMmfC-GPZkERu3RakOzulBNiv=w800-h453-no)

The feed wire going from the instrument panel to the climate control illumination wiring replaced the wire that I cut and soldered between the illumination wiring and the emergency flasher switch. It is wired correctly and now there is a grey wire with a blue stripe left over branching out of the emergency flasher switch. I was going to remove it but then had an idea--I can run it up to the instrument panel and use it to light a temperature display which I can install from a W124.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xLv6_DQ6ya7M2CHAQkR44gcTRCe39DbiHsD6_SpgtNVEm4dL7mWOjS8sQFu22zLdQw_Szrzv7iXF5y6FhAZOBJAZsC3kWgC1Sw1aYsHAulLHlVjNIFImjvA3NoIqB8EmocrtnIxB6h9Z9qTrUNIgHuN939P84HJjFXxTm0ZsayizXhQcgCCmHUjV6ERp94Xkn_S0XWjIisUSVcB7fPlrH0cW632XNyhxjSXIf9JIgS2Tss9-AbBFtjVW7JwLiJQtaQLuuwdapWsEj0nGRugAiQ3D9vaf5L4QdN_H5lDQb3_BTaI5NhM_a_AqSbBCyYlBWWgaqb8Gil2CIwqVIeBfc_U6dkcVXWDPo3aoWj4UNyCntSW1p6epeUSJxWAIZTXRPTNTrwE-PdJkoyRmqeakVIg7iU5FtYnx1vFb2koDl048CL45jor5ScReUe86UnzFm8SG8u-WJaq9GOf_iYBMWncE_VVAlSIhmsHwxFkcwSAAwhhkzKyDX4-4u2kgWcqEhc0gsXad0jlW7gpv1G2OgvTt14x4CjBmp39nvzdKzFIy-jmC1myanVxGrFiPvjgqXNMeDhKBruduS1UAakinsgu8u29qZA0MopVO_3JvzeapEwj7HUn3sk0LQwQIbuK56ab9pCCfUOzCjlHbHTxxTPyqLg2Hmarz=w800-h453-no)

As of right now, the climate control wiring is functional. The blower motor works on all speeds, the dial and faceplate illumination work, and the compressor gets power when the air conditioning dial is turned on. I still have some parts of the wire harness to remove, but electrically the car is about ready to have the air conditioning charged with R-12. I still have to install the hoses, though.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: daantjie on 25 July 2018, 11:03 AM
Glad to hear I'm not the only one who cannot solder properly ::)  For the life of me I cannot get it down, but then again I think it's the kind of thing that just takes a lot of practice.
I have also had some hit and miss order fulfillment from the Classic Centre.  For the most part their service is excellent (God knows you pay enough for stuff!) and if they mess up they have always fixed it right away, which to me is 99% of the customer service experience.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 25 July 2018, 11:35 AM
Glad to hear I'm not the only one who cannot solder properly ::)  For the life of me I cannot get it down, but then again I think it's the kind of thing that just takes a lot of practice.
I have also had some hit and miss order fulfillment from the Classic Centre.  For the most part their service is excellent (God knows you pay enough for stuff!) and if they mess up they have always fixed it right away, which to me is 99% of the customer service experience.

My biggest problem was I had no idea how to solder. I would put the soldering iron tip to the solder, drip it onto the joint, and then get mad when it wouldn't stick. I thought that touching the part to be soldered with the iron would damage the part. I read up on how to do it, bought that torch (which works really well because it gets super hot almost immediately and keeps the heat relatively isolated), got some good leaded rosin core solder, and flux. This is the first time I feel I've ever soldered something correctly. I was so worried about ruining it, and it ended up looking as good as the factory did it.

I'm going to try to get the shipping refunded on the grommet. It's silly. As for the businesses that took my money and didn't send the goods, I disputed the charges on my card a while ago, so I imagine I'll be getting that money back eventually as they haven't responded to my bank.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: raueda1 on 25 July 2018, 07:19 PM
Glad to hear I'm not the only one who cannot solder properly ::)  For the life of me I cannot get it down, but then again I think it's the kind of thing that just takes a lot of practice.
I have also had some hit and miss order fulfillment from the Classic Centre.  For the most part their service is excellent (God knows you pay enough for stuff!) and if they mess up they have always fixed it right away, which to me is 99% of the customer service experience.

My biggest problem was I had no idea how to solder. I would put the soldering iron tip to the solder, drip it onto the joint, and then get mad when it wouldn't stick. I thought that touching the part to be soldered with the iron would damage the part. I read up on how to do it, bought that torch (which works really well because it gets super hot almost immediately and keeps the heat relatively isolated), got some good leaded rosin core solder, and flux. This is the first time I feel I've ever soldered something correctly. I was so worried about ruining it, and it ended up looking as good as the factory did it.

I'm going to try to get the shipping refunded on the grommet. It's silly. As for the businesses that took my money and didn't send the goods, I disputed the charges on my card a while ago, so I imagine I'll be getting that money back eventually as they haven't responded to my bank.
I think zillions of people learned to solder putting together Heathkit stuff but now we're getting old.   :-[  I was one of them.  The trick is heating the parts with the iron sufficiently for the solder to melt on the joint and flow.  You're obviously doing that with the torch.   Fear of overheating leads to underheating and "cold" joints that are NG.  The joint itself needs to be hot enough for the solder to flow.  Most things with soldered joints are heat resistant enough to survive the soldering process.  Old circuit boards are an exception.  In many cases repeated heatings, such as to unsolder a component that will be replaced, can unstick the solder pad from the board.  Obviously the torch it OK for those heavy contacts but probably not much else.  For general purpose auto work and heavy wiring I'd use one of these:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K6zBpl_NKIw (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K6zBpl_NKIw).  I've had one for 45 years, at least! It's not great for fine PC boards, for that you need a much smaller iron.  It;s also a great tool for cutting plastic, whipping ropes, stuff like that.  Get spare tips and hammer one very thin.  Now you have a rope cutter, fabric cutter, plastic slicer, etc etc.  Very very useful.

I continue to be in awe of what you're doing!  Almost done!
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 28 July 2018, 01:51 PM
I've been having problems getting suitable fittings for making the air conditioning hoses because the ones I need are uncommonly stocked shapes due to lack of space and the oil cooler line bracket always obstructing the path the hoses needed to go. Unfortunately, I seem to be the first person to try mounting a Sanden compressor in a W116 300SD, other than 1980sd who fabricated a bracket to fit a Sanden-style compressor which has a totally different head. In my searching, I looked through Klima Design Works' site and noticed that they had a Sanden conversion kit complete with hoses that fits the W116 300SD: https://www.klimakit.com/product/w116-sanden-sd-ac-compressor-mounting-kit/ (https://www.klimakit.com/product/w116-sanden-sd-ac-compressor-mounting-kit/) . My curiosity and frustration got the better of me and I ordered one of their kits. I just HAD to see what their solution was.

I selected the option for "uncrimped hoses" so I could build the hoses the way I wanted using a mixture of the fittings and hose provided and my own. What I was sent was a set of crimped hoses. I was disappointed as that wasn't what I had asked for. But, I really liked the way they designed one of the hoses to go underneath the compressor to reach the condenser. It also looked like the hose going from the compressor to the evaporator was going to fit well once I adjusted the power steering return hose out of the way. Both hoses also came with strain relief brackets. So, it was a blessing in disguise; I decided the crimped, completed hoses would work great as-is, and I'd just deal with the fact that they have R-134a ports on them.

Unfortunately, it appears that the hose that goes from the compressor to the evaporator is about two feet too long! Also, the 13X965 belt that was sent with the kit is way too small. I have a feeling I'm the first customer to order the W116 kit. I think that the W116 has a larger crank pulley than the W123 and W126--when I had ROLLGUY's bracket on my car, it came with a 940mm long belt, and now they are being supplied with 950mm belts. There is no way either of those would fit (a 13X990 was the smallest belt that would fit), so it must be a difference in the W116 crank pulley. The compressor I am using is a standard Sanden 508 with a 32mm pulley.

Klima sends an adapter that can be soldered onto the compressor wire so it plugs into the factory connector on the wire harness. I ended up cutting a brown ground wire from a spare wire harness I had and put some heat shrink tubing on the connector end. I used a piece of sheathing from the harness and fed both wires through. I attached the ground wire at the screw that holds the bracket that secures the power wire.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/1Ntof4_zMTb2G5nM-vZYILb0vNhAiAWVhyk35gZqqeM4mGybgyL_farGQNA32IrDxcvy6Z73hKrIt4ZXoThyhIiRE_b70mIncqTF9Opxx78TYYBFHx4qiVhb0PpjlxczxxskT6S39DAeneumq9EZEi36Xuy-NvvQ4oAKxFHMM4_vfPptyXKmFbOdgp1uVkmVAGFcFO_-h6RLuzsTxgoueHGJllpcYt421RaiatTC5a2CYjhWVlCiYlLrYWznWq23MmQBnI7CjeRgDcRfvTeqUHuz7MvP1-UCi7wiP2MWeXF0OvkiKsvHGH_Bi8wJ50eDEWBdnoj9cmnIfZXMfuHUZqBY_u-FR_lc7nHPmcxsAYDxhbIoBb4DmTJB4EtsuCg0n8WhbKrcynVvkwzdNUwif6ifNNompR1HXQd0QmmUItFW6fC4Is7su4ptR_V1tZCgP6eyvHsxATehK9U1EIen0pbuPooNZB2Upwf9ZneSCHNZdbf3CPGg1s5F6YOjNNY23QK-M7SM2X1CsrwUKFS4qvlHc-qaGy8Fvf2CFdaNzQYS9vsxzrkj-HqHHTuY84_TNX_f0KuNEafx64bMffx-BzTq841enAk1QDb0753Jx1XFNZY_vQdrwUtbL4azLZBBaQ9qmkAIKfmFZqzXDmA634rh90YUQ3o-=w800-h453-no)

I crimped and soldered the provided connectors onto the wires.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GDCB9HJIe7oHQN9MMPoVRf8O-lK4QV7-s32Ft_Rk-sfcMogVRVG0gs2T0LXPkuA2JP2hRPrV5yEqWmCWb31xUmjHVgp2p4XzeWkpwenFnIbpSp9zLzsSj8xc3Wi_WFOLKPhTHMD9gG2EYWdxuuBdupK2Ge4N7NRMx9DxVFNyARQ9Z1c6C75ZmhSYUDtVVqMccoSCrpfvFEijUemjuxM4R8hkULwMxtQwOpNLv0iPYSa3fGJTJWzuH2PyHsdd0JzJWvACTMGdNjTOtbeSmVghWEff9InahOwcmLfBU-M8FDkrhFnj5tMeLw3nG37ia66wlgZ1n0Zv8C_QtMnYQpkK6ukVorLICK1S-ahW2H3B-AWMhg8-QXxN7USgVJOaKhVBD-s4103C5h_oEi_Ke6aYuIczRWN1J1LgfKpmY2pEsf7g1is9Gb8s_iNtZ4oeDzCY90UNFVq-Xq5G7ZW-NneDZGIRYhcnGIrHTNMkSIrZ7kN2VSYXbqLvdputHlPKUmgqdkfDpmk_TsyzqyUNuHqrYwvWulXirDRz8kaGJCK4l-DKCA2AITjlhXh2zF63e6AAXuBu7K2FJ9stz4GZVpPuiBrb0wHbmgZrk1Qu_c7t7qz60EEGeMMO5LYxoYn_3FglDdWvNwCb1Cgvix85DTkJ-bTd1CsRcXeT=w800-h453-no)

The connectors are snapped into the plastic housing.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wOXGBasScR06ID8Z8f-80-8Txkt21VkRRWy9TgIaaTg8bKPfBESeuQIMddd1xX-M-qRu64clwfGmzYKkclHoI35cjScFcGtmaTw9CFGVhpRFnFw_6yrOOYkgIzIOJ-GIZcfN4hCV7__bD2hRil2lo_szqalYCUPYK-KCm9uEX49F9XA4QdHf7n_E3VyZy2F5iQjKzNBoPptl0jkUCZbQf7yRhgWDWiuNDLo9b0xzKF8lEzvfpxxfviXGeLh14RDYNdFqVDdEIwT0530Jms4b735H9IFys3TbypnwsJZS7LcxOXsDnyzoFzNpIeLplJXIyzBMA-N7e6AWWxERlV7lPIjfqeuYefyFurvpCfQsG7hCcNfoa_ewvxiWGmXAj6_OYng2aKtt1A8nCwWI6Wrs6i_xlEncBiSAo-xu9kCWlSCm9BbIEvZV8898_XIHuXQXUZZ5yRQkyr_aK9Vdp0mpEQdZRdzfnbKRQPrfMxQhZsurfIT23HWjZSGmi2t9UrkeWLBEcQwU8Xsd-Vq4eg33i7qxYhZ0era1hrO12SAmDF2iJqydejKnbgTbi_G4kkI9hA-gk-0Hj6KlRC9IbiOyoNEilmSH7WtA81U9lWY62k7-DHAZ6wQyKKk0jijbo7DNJX3jxl-7B7nwUGE55tYtnHNLJ2LCCnuF=w800-h453-no)

I found that my compressor has a crack in one of the ears. >:( The Klima bracket goes across two sets of ears instead of just one, so hopefully it supports it enough to where the crack won't be an issue. I'm also worried because my compressor clutch was really hard to turn and couldn't be done by hand, even with the caps off. I had to use a ratchet to turn it when I was replacing the oil with 5 oz of double end-capped PAG100. I saw little metal particles coming out of the shipping oil. I hope that was just manufacturing residue. The compressor hasn't even been run yet and I'm questioning whether it's good to use at all.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7tZiRbxKXKirsbrQnU-G9D6Z6jCogXc7x6z5FcAsKqmyUJCaTZgJhbtd7niwuOInQbEqIKzZW0tGhsPFyW3AMO3-sd2wQoGGLQJvxN0bHiYaquSLZUG_7fD0eIGBaFNBM_7F6s-7a5jHee8pG2T43V0uoYt7d2XvEbe4TmitXoR8lCvFo9LYYjHII93B7xASbb6HjR2J4H4Syz3spK1PgnzhEiMzDNHkjEDv1VzSNmcyBKmfZB520R4jJyq7OeZWy9apLAiK69eDXNYrqIRpXZ7FDAigsXF5edJ7PgB1lOZcYxOuCg88Z8Ls5xHB9f223nE_PvEGliCaXCB995EYQiaRcJkoawOSspgwepr7MeClBu_PPK1w2CWB3wUYrmvPWvxii3PeVR6zHOz0FUmgenpoAxIQbfgw9P0Z_X4JOt766N_0K6wAroUQqhNgtd_HTj-d4RHojdNCOf7X5KUQHU8Db1Z_X8NR1n8Tfyvje8wGfoF6zD1HbQDe86vsGmv1WY176sJbswjKX9bl_O6sDrICp2MhOBf5aBcTN5SAlCSnbTZ0xp5wnmFDGEzdKgvg47TAdt69aRepDZNXaMiamOSoCG6nkCy210Qin5aed5mkIgE99z5IgqRVaL0HWTduTCl-FgUNI4q2kTyaPkhu_d-WESPjBaBn=w800-h453-no)

I have to say that I am very happy with the Klima Design Works Sanden adapter bracket. While the one from ROLLGUY is great, I am finding that I have a little more clearance over the skid plate mounting arm and belt tension adjustment is easy. Then again, the Klima kits are more costly and your average W123 or W126 isn't going to have the clearance issues the W116 has. The W116 is an odd duck.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wEwI_3zI4n3yR8QZFc3zgPK0iGgFpyA9Pv15E5ZOeAtGWY_7z13mXbMVZJY4eGAGy9EPV_tmwZpuqG7XEyJaWKjNbesnytVzcdxSXN0wrPB-498osvQrGMGdbcMREqRdOfWdl_6w83hMsmI1oPAFKxh-XwCV_7jO19UFfvUo-SGbfpwneh-1udft3g_8Bct-HZJongahdigMiM2PXNqM6C7XubR_3z9ioMb1bccfWORdOMOWtBYhK3iha8VGLN5bGPZ9shc6kWmyGFgeTjBAAHYoYsM0yHW5CtupVcgDKzy2BT9o_OR7jh6Q3wWAAaW4jvSd-vrAgj8brLtDhgmOyS0sV8PCj-IX4Wh0ZvDjuNL1Djn4Pc7bT5fWNAMnwX5al9QyOR3r_oexIqMjQyOcRP1YQ_HzWgdvB5TXpdV42fixr7OoIoXKKdWk0c0ZY-clftl_q-ai4MjyzMTW136tMqHKrEHyGkzcfOLXFJn8f7ZBVNWlBcBvfn6HfvE-E2Yaoun0tqncIZhkwf1XoM5UXp3ZvZVcKs0I7ckiDiva_EOsvl4Bch1-46TYYgKVhLILlm2cr44NC4mmjhPrvEwKcoXg6e5pbCa6UeItbyuUHNVRWUwNIiNmFf2A2ihCn-dw9Js_Gb_HwoWD6NhuIHAhqbbGRzhLW8mf=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 01 August 2018, 02:46 PM
Since the firewall grommet for the low pressure air conditioning hose (116-997-24-81) is no longer available, I was forced to find a suitable replacement. Part number (113-997-01-81) replaced it as it fits the same size hole and has a similar angle. The center hole needed to be opened up for the hose to fit, so I covered it with electrical tape to protect the surface of the grommet and ground the hole larger with a rotary tool, cutoff disc, and sanding drum. It worked!

The grommet on the far left is a new 113-997-01-81 grommet. The grommet in the center is a new grommet with the hole cut larger so it can replace the original 116-997-24-81 grommet on the right.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RsV9uQA2Jg4WrqNUWaIO8tR0tTJWtEjCaslKEBSBpPDaKZEeZliUJ0Wv05E8fL_1Dbblwvnqu1eayAvWcqaWDOBKYaqZqKnz4eAVKM2d0a4nFZq3gmmjifVS5YUPOIcb-T2j7Z9elap64KvWRrfB8iE9xPVRUdzjVCKREkNxhzyJPLMRwfiyUWPE653ox1eawC8k5C-_PJdJhOhCwluFMcIfDPxB8SR4tgD_8EL0hKd7TEmm3A0xN9kJAV1_oe6tm3fEVYEAlhCFG-1M9FTBWqmh1IdFkmPJS0FGyWyIDxi2oBR21EOD6TaydqyLbD8d3_EgW8httmJNgqKN7bEkR7U38xKi3gbwrdeQP7MItPtClxTgalFxWTAHp6QmiPV17G7TRvjNvTR3RwJywlOyTftCRp7d-ync3MWWkA988-O34WkOvfoUOTyswUTnK4rhwwjci81k0TfnkkVuliE1bs1UquEUHDSHM1mEa4Qm2zHuOlFjdqxYg2dihQ75JRFbgx-lpZ_-3dZRG1pXk4kGHAzXQifpn9BNmzuJH-ktNSHN8NA0eENqcpLafqB0ILFiOAB0yZGuB_DmgSbXAx_lYhzNYoWsmLpyXs4gq_aeCsEZC7ZVy-jH9mi8lTsYhrMfOL7YcB0Chz-YTc6aLcFQVIpn_UPdJ620=w800-h453-no)

The new grommet and bumpers (116-466-08-82) installed on the new low pressure air conditioning hose.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fnuBCdygqPvlTj5v_9fp-1qlaV2xVR5fD7Sxs9DTZS3fqVy_5xrcAGrdpF2RQE3a-BYVa3PL273JH-tDxojWWaMgRN-3jA18FBHNaBUoOu7z8DiWLq-wG6wUb2ZlRIYddQ8xzjeOFM_XLMrZ-Y3u2BgdvmHjWgSHhB6VIvnSoDjQhcHb_u9Vy1ldLOIf_0woSIkdqD-oLYBI0Q4bP6c5UOzMdPRm1PoHtesrpaE6-f_5v1dybpWssdvpUK52Tz7StEzT1w0LSSuWcNzu2qTJXcqinQCkn6M1bSLca_wQ6gwXMagNVWP_bz_KBQHlLVBckJqqPql0l34p1IWAz9Y6Q3ZEUGDEooGSWN6MFtoLiEjGj6w_lnNONqn7Pe4l0y01olBW5_BJPvQBVBsRa9pno-VLnO-VEDokzx11w9I02nPP5qflcsF4ZeOT0qphfBOO7NsmAwtisIJmUD2Keb_5dAJYVaJ8TJ7_b4Q1hddJbOCvsLq4NooEaMxOIYjJ9tNOze5K_PcvivqX3xKtvxfH6XppKZ_qT-LKRPdq_s0OADllyoM1I71d30ysZH0OaAaZZBA49BTWDtgjsEAZ9GkiY384IvjQ_2OSczwL-5DCi4YhgdEkchlHsJ5JKaUKd2LWBVRIZ_a9eCTlItcW16-kmXX_XR2nolEN=w800-h453-no)

The main reason I purchased the Sanden conversion kit from Klima Design Works was because I was having frustration figuring out the hose routing and they seemed to have a solution for this as their kit came with hoses (however their site does not show pictures of the actual hoses, or the kits installed in any cars for that matter, which would be helpful as it's hard to understand how things are supposed to work).

The discharge hose going from the compressor to the condenser was cleverly designed and fit well. It goes underneath the compressor and has a strain relief bracket. Unfortunately, the low pressure hose gave me problems. With the compressor properly positioned, one of the oil cooler lines was in the way of where the fitting and hose needed to go. To get around this, I reversed the position of the hose clamp so it leaned away from the oil cooler line (which isn't the way the picture in the instructions shows). This allowed for proper clearance, but then the angle of the fitting was wrong so the hose clamp was in a twisted state. The service port would also hit either the strain relief bracket, the oil cooler pipe, the power steering return hose, or the body of the car unless it was positioned exactly as shown, which is different than what the instructions showed, and I doubt if there would be enough clearance to get the charging hose on there.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XqAGVJVx1J9mAqzbqw3nEv24osB86-hEZ0YGXoO4PCue5QIlqA1XzlvIuxi-sP6wUHmZ7zFzQtxK3IjHPDi_mV3sSzT-xunvN0W5FHhVsgU87j5ELcK7lV7ShnpmEek0Tjl-vww8Mjh-Simt9MoOu0dUwq_p14Sxrc06Wv0WqbIuGlc5Vqqy7ExkVx8_lwgabTI2DR3FJjr2zDNr0WP8x7Q9DT8PTdzwHk72lAK0J70hs-so9DeD-B2cldW1JXDFYpu0tWM_a12X_x7NZCLvMLBP4BhRrd-0oPxFk7bAE3XUOhOiRIJ3QP141TY8tUVWsDiFby5vU8dlc2IpZzQjL5_7URwiigN44KjQgdQz8Au4UW17cKwQQgYdDOh38ARcd-eZ7XZ4COZuz2faXrGHYQvo2nlL883qBi5ho4t19u8n8t4Rs4d_sSNBvBdfhpI98na_OoUHgw_H4jP4hxgGBF6VP4ZiM8EE2NmQfNUlvmM3DlyybAdm9mFvQRB-YsC-Mfw-djzrJD02EZeapN42tFPHRtvAUlhsoxai7Rec4UqIYXcESw-lRPjej6Plov03QKcLLHhothqtovaAu4-apmvwfqVQ8wRVLtrpCcQgwe2Ltt5sstYx9wOlnPuWE-FY-VSBWsxEvJks4UFsp3WLHHfPL-l43g4E=w800-h453-no)

The low pressure hose seemed like it was about two feet too long, so I contacted Klima. They said that the hose is supposed to loop forward and fit in the bracket on the inner fender as the original did. The illustration in the W116 appendix just shows it going straight back to the evaporator, so a different illustration or instructions would have been helpful. I tried routing it as original, but it seemed to put way too much strain on the compressor fitting, which was at nearly a perpendicular angle to the hose, the hose seemed like it was kinking, and it would have been under way too much tension. I said that I didn't feel comfortable with this, and they said that I could shorten the hose if I liked and they'd send a new fitting to crimp on at no cost; but I'm just going to make my own hoses, which is a shame because that was the whole point of buying the Klima kit.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JX7_jrSx9ZKDgWTWaeK3j2o8NvbB3YzpFk9dH8roXEAux5pXnpcp8XwSWeoLUHJJFAR-pdlx4CtnarvyBVmbPxK5eoSK4zFINouTXKE1Br8_WleiDxWrZi9Kog8Y7sSClNGVFPISIrrcCChz2MTlavUHPMeF7fEjeBdH4mkyw5nxqg5MMozWKv_DxMBKSkxz1wAIfrEI_SwopnfrJ3b3FoXmhBT30sQruI7sGfhLpbdnNXnR5qFjLgRZyQXHk79kp-WYJVsjRA_KIep2dT4MaIuDXTr7jivwK1wIDf2aUto45mPuLBjgIgEAiMowRpc_NITiY47Lk18GC21S2PUHVMtLApZpRI5IfNxqRuWu3e_qa-DwjcgO7wVUJFiqNCgbRK7IZGoJ9fWWLFhJxuebM84GzeomKCWW-u3kI7SJUeuUs__swlJlRNKX3RVV6xjap1goAMwc06jfhijsPrNFKzi94nC6TDrayKrhZr1vLk2TyFztLICL8BdJXIYZbbMMkdYdpdDzZ7McUl-K0bSwUXEwZzMJGZzHuhU_26JN5DNxW7V2L2e4Qyab4XPXRSyU_ZwRikpWrgH_Jc6Eh95vQDo7Jpgrlzh8gH1kBlI-re_BieO8KFoRRzVl5Ov9OnKF6qb7ivbDripmuzJB51eWx1MYzMgmGueT=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 01 August 2018, 03:17 PM
The oil cooler line mounting bracket from Klima didn't fit my car.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0f79iPbW5FdvkTC_e88F6axUgBaoS5ZXCAELI9BTjeeXXpi7TY1AYRvLO3Q1OViWBBQHPbT8K0taHcGM1li1rwlAAJ5Y-2bPXlIhhmS3zcNymSjbdbCCbw_r2dUkPF448aT-5JZ55E95u7-7fnZ4Q2lEZtGCXUhv8XBGKoiCScvavh5aDSEPq-e-Rorr63pT1Poh9Bvhzlcb-tIAAgL63GrlIZjnOJloQulrpcPV7LwTk57bnWrpbYQNEVwavv8aCUWS05k_I2iPZNdhjEWRdz8kBJT79cMVCBO7tr-TcqepeX2DEK48CIEp-ZiQYtxFljW8vx4c_WjOrLbE2jlhYfXSwW7epo9RPngLUn53zOlbCydUha8mf4DFVA9n2vaNDOmwkXT6rAuCUIhN7pfFFSCI89M3pUMJuJzLyopfynGuLWZq_dJ63dAZJ02EJkMpaMWZYmaJuH4fNOzrCCBTbeKa5pmIFJP-TAVgYsw2RYZ5LN7zlmdyzilDPOT6Cs76LEK-IR83tvklT7CDuS2sKtjrZ-HtcaSwjxEo4Oh7wTr3DXkbQmbA970oS6l5FtmSfMd-W6s3PZoKFcSvwuvwOLNUJrbp2iTq_4z2rd4BrMDhSed5-hlSxFBHtuRYVxC59uzuieLCAejGB9WHrG6XAKnS8NAjaj9a=w800-h453-no)

The ridge in the center of the power steering pump bracket prevents the oil cooler line bracket from fitting flush.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rb2PZutwZnhbJIklWxpX8P7VM2zem9rAStSleXk1oiugR1DFaNOb1CnWDB2YeJE4NdFdNYCXqtUxXyeYromQ9F9JP6Bg1LDi8WkZZvShnqJXNjUJ480u6JA8QTihAt2CBVtEPZ5P46EDpc36sNFpJuDIrxwfAheY6ZS70lg4nmhDc4emV5m-WE97Nk5-VBDCqxvD9hPX0O7BGzVh-fvtHdmqR4WUokQDWREZxxq7d6gaycE0Rq-ORuCj1Iq4idnwEu5QVf4pyC9XPzUcqV1FUZTe2r84_UIhM1Vcjq9yEdiyqPQRXR54RjY1rrmd33KDz6ME-DCa9DMjaSPKDTSD2LE-UG6NnwUeV3etmMXfzdYYw9Hk3g1oEyF_ERt87g3O5o1ESjNwZ4xR3wLGcOlZT95ncRqaY9LUE0lQ_HZvWv_m0GulzRyhAhVcyVqvlSVndLYHhvujyuGhKcSZcEoR_Az5wZHCU0FTCnsLtSyPURjyEpUW8QwWg9qGrgPlFo9EPVls5J3oDB4qd91jlmlwucfdEswRIoM2TC6SN0O6da-E_oFj5WJFAIIn7pG99gXojJr8nZztYQEdz2WaT1N1sE74T5tlvjci3Fomjgveo3JlFWedY5MfbgwNadYEFh1tyb9tqOCdxIGfYycy1njeH99O9_gcprya=w800-h453-no)

When I tried tightening down the bracket, the ridge caused it to bend.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/a0N83JqbgQZk1vhKwUYlO1vItvRyCLLWmpqKsTDJvDJ6tQzwpOAaiu4Z8ccuc_-ItgvY9h6OZgqF--JXXe7lxkSraSTPB13v4aAJsdccYUuEnNW4iMkT8pItKyP3vdg-pVl28ZbQOeY95Xz1ICbo4ANXZFQb9ybkh1cl10mZPRFdH7TWJOGWdxUmBtY_811FEoB_2R8YtsjHmYsepgNRzsygoeweuRmL-URmyQ8PSxqmyJXSXVGZA1n4vECJsHjA3hOF2VPISGxtcoWzdakN_-BYOf-aJwS3khBFK3xVNdVx0CZ0Srf58HsVcWimSPydMjjc5nF9BglT308OWYE7l7wcT_GncMTAAe63RuztmkFl4vWF9vpua0w28ZL3ohqIhOwkke_76tilfK4V4lqaxihd8GxxGyKi6yNiBclMzsqgS0lo2H6WRDvvxOUnA-5TJTtLpSAjGJIMF_dPHxH7-4Q7_We-_FNvACVe-98OFtP47YlSgbXYVLT8cax4513HnPrwZNT_sihthcGSusRpU1lL_mA9vuG7Z3j_3OQm1CcgA1Crkb_L3aICSTjPJgG8PsNZL3PQCh59ZOEmXysVKUarVc8BkYwBiBdrHdMC0OHzZ1uDFKRGbcM6R_1QsLF_ltbirpeXn1S1ssYXbtAHREvbfXXaoJIP=w800-h453-no)

I put the Klima bracket up against the bracket from ROLLGUY's kit. I had no problem with ROLLGUY's bracket fitting, and you can see that his is cut deeper to clear the ridge. Klima said it's strange and they have never had any complaints about their brackets before, but if I want to cut mine to fit, they'll let me do it without voiding the warranty. Unfortunately, I can't use ROLLGUY's bracket because it's longer than the Klima bracket as his goes underneath the oil cooler lines and the lower corner sticks out further, so it interferes with the way the hoses on a W116 have to route. The Klima bracket mounts on top of the oil cooler lines, so there is more clearance below, which is another reason why I wanted to try the Klima kit.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4ukng1roYQSENxdCp5oXgkXH68qgXzGhH1zDauMTqO_uwVO25cXSNOPZuJLXulqbZUBbrcr7-rQVYCBTNSjT0KM_L_cqaE9rSLEp1IM1yXxCnb3lpVx4HUulMAHq42NjmVTOaSwqBJCZNEgJ-FLZodVFMWncoYJNFrxW8PcAW0PlYhULbjq4sE7fAKozCIxMVf50v53OuyEuRvkbOAkj0V3sS4y21KXiEPiUibIsjGsSpPZ0yto7LIgnzNAFpYP7urUJnJM5ZakALwjAz1PxYD2K6sanncVcjM-XoMZlDM_9NSDfFX6HXqPTQMIdf_DkrrbrPCLy6wnXiA1Ap_wEColJBqGtIlYHJLnP65DPfIzChbmBtUZlqpI-vRPd7SPt3yWB8ioqjnyEolsqycaLulOKtaCnyH9YtBFKmBK5yiUvdkQtgy0Zh09W3Vm1H2YWe0u4COKYaZXcUTd_yhhxOzyzRAXQdjRGUriuXApI8wrKUYGM0_usM_aSGUyzje1__7KoRP4W6PUWrVo9KGwAW3K3xPdXZcbZhW5MlRcEv4Yjers0glslJ-JuFfjNur0BoIr72Duu6wZiWy9fur4zN5wQWXB53GmevWLJD2iNzQN3n0pHby3foi6rAtep-XBKHFVpbV6-S6XDD3_3bIZehjcneNSuxUmc=w800-h453-no)

I had the same issue with the Klima kit that I had with ROLLGUY's kit; the belt provided (11X950 for ROLLGUY's, 13X965 for Klima's) was way too small to fit. Both claim that it is the proper belt size for the OM617 turbo engines, but the W116 version must have a larger crank pulley as the compressor has the recommended 132mm pulley. Klima suggested removing the adjuster bolts from the bracket and trying to fit the belt. Doing that, I was able to just barely squeeze on the belt, and then getting the bolts back in was tricky. Once the belt was fully tensioned, the adjuster had hardly moved at all. So clearly, that wasn't going to work. I found that for my 1980 W116 300SD, a 13X990 belt fit perfectly on ROLLGUY's bracket, and a 13X980 belt fit perfectly on Klima's bracket.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ox1fqlvsbMNSUph-0FeQxXSlNHjp56ESFRUWSyK8BlYIUAA5Nfn_C1lnluHYpAK133476kACRtU_0jhegcqOQ7hv3sFG2PHgZyxq0m7KmUgcCLTpA9CQgt2oklQibRhRKLm6gF3GqSgAS1YKB10y737EFBQklk5i06P7cSSO7yt6llWBqkHyWOn968eIvXgrPsI1Hhwa8Vob5y53Hjbj74Xas29Xzf0hSJXFVYUy5bXQ0PP_PnNyd2_NQckFZQQOS9RtW4Ed9qeODGt884Xp0_wCHBC_bAh-TUN30U5jMVTJFCIJUctt6CiY_ys-7GydVFg4xSZjvTX2m-Fbu7pAXR8tw8eax1Oc3XkbjjBlTQH_OUlJDfm5VSAc1On9tvtIIJYQM7drQAP-V-8JkXUHp4Hh7TSC-XOcMtZSWi2_6PUZiMfVvXtaJGwCj7Vf1Qw5yG914Uc_fhUNczrgt1kP7Nnde_KSzB2akWRXCnBIj7N0dCBS0uTUo3NZFsgrdUfI7A-Y6Fowqv8hCc5T3JtHutLJOY3QAY3XRO1EFfH2jo91hn3SKJUeHDIIcnwtC5kzWmaJ_qDxlzwyyBkn3ZPb3r6DXXg5V6PHkMPRCEGjIiWRHzHI7q92Xz3HNLyf-DAUbYIFoOqqHxmIA8XSPq8S1xz8SnXs2W8I=w800-h453-no)

The 13X990 belt that I was using on ROLLGUY's bracket was a bit too large on Klima's bracket, so I went to AutoZone to try a 13X980 belt since I had purchased the other belt from them being as their Duralast belts were made in the USA by Dayco, which I felt was a better option than a Continental, which are now made in China and I couldn't find that size in a genuine Mercedes belt (and even genuine Volvo in 13x992 are no longer available). Well, this time the Duralast belt said made in China on it. At least the belt fit, so I know the proper size. I figured that if I'm going to run a Chinese belt anyway, I'd prefer to have a Continental. But, then I discovered there is a genuine Mercedes belt in a close size (12.5X975 004-997-36-92), so I ordered one to match the power steering and fan belts.

My overall opinion of Klima Design Works' Sanden conversion kit is that they probably make a great product for the W123 and W126, but it seems the W116 version needs work. I got the impression that I was their first customer to install the W116 kit, but they said that they have sold many of these and have never heard a complaint other than some people didn't like the low pressure hose setup. Their bracket is really well-engineered. Then again, just about all the rest of it didn't fit, and those are the parts that made me decide to try it out. But, for a W123 or W126, their kits are probably great.

ROLLGUY's brackets get the job done and I didn't have fitment issues with his other than the belt alignment being 1/4" off, but some spacers and longer bolts fixed that. The oil cooler line support bracket fit well, it's just that it gets in the way of the W116 low pressure hose routing, but not an issue with the W123 or W126.

Sometimes learning can be expensive, but now I know the pros and cons of both brackets and my car is getting closer to have working air conditioning for the first time since I've owned it.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 01 August 2018, 03:41 PM
Going back to the plans I had for designing my own hoses, here's my idea for the low pressure hose; a 180 degree fitting points the hose forward as original, and a clamp secures it to the compressor at the strain relief mounting ear.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/UQYJy16jXogFwpazRsHPRCHuJIUZ_PqyftjuxHFWuLwAgxSCgd-CBewFNuZS6u0h-II3iiU74P9kXKe9thNfCnq1YUe5J3h7ej3eN5YZA19NKPCsqLdtg0AJ7xr1KHn_6hCUYIlbcUdexeWCPPhzUCL1NmD_h4WFbifS7mZ8v9GSYu72F286vPevhq5DVR0tUQ_x6E19uarsHz9WLFuNP7ZLSbNayiUlQkvGf0AZkwp3f7crrk6n3TUEVgxvFRT0oNfuMoScaNSyFTNbBjOTK3ZsIBwnh1ZA7qGwq-hzsQhMGeQp-Q9BeFqLBAZAMBWcIUwwiqjy0v4wLhblrWULJitO5I0J-dE8YCJUEQrupUKSyCEqg9D8LK6K_sz3_weOQmIA8DQRP4f5dJ3N_s6DTN-7Wof4kF9FTw1Jn1b6gFuDIG-Yap0a-WP3W7vJPtxLFZ6-yfbfLCSH4Hb0LnMRd3zwS-s7ggKFztEg-XbtbRUSOkcrF1RWZS-iwEtr7WNE6Wweg9U2KUylMHHuyT3IzV0DFbSNfIA_ZHwKWkthuoT6cJuK29vdVE570GADdwpK0PZgZgsI6wHO2YMy0iZ002Se-P4bSnW6289KywBuOOUre0HqNFUZCcUB1TpY3oxMJCKIvJt1AK48ita7On0YG7OJkcTVeOTw=w800-h453-no)

Then the hose loops backward into the holder bracket on the inner fender, and both the high and low pressure hoses will get inline R-12 service ports in an easily-accessible placement.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/i9zWrWO-LEybTU8TouzxG5XEuGmbHEkK-4vIyQmDNrZCkGkilN-XlgMZDt3zlM0cbrRyplaL1knn-8rLuKivFzw9RNAQpl6tMm80if4IqNNlt4yOz5dECSFYbNnZGzVtR1bgUIyjj7MKa2ZWAIwPlIERrtpfXHTN-ChHW5Y43uYfhI4X114Y4bOP-GUBLV_xBVhDpgzvyPCgub-dPL93XnYwgPxLn9VqDH4I-glhjVK8EAWXJcGPY_VJaWFXKX7InYJQ8HynYEuqrap2lqNtpfR__NpwKkxkw-MeV7FfUlTXpdFwEzGXJLunWs3cSq1ZR1hB4ngS5GmA1rC0TZNGHJR8H_1UEoNbawG2umo3BQpui8-4BzYuzQtZnedX-JIIiF0PwwHc4vZ8qhY8DxpILoJz1sPyCJr3FZWyO9AZuwYyRzXJDlU5bxWqWGzedSA50b-46LI_apZzai9NDLW3-iSLl9s5Ix2BrhVGIpuSnDnTtPuIy_0ZuPxrmPFfNuA9IGQVIw04bGDRXjW2jD0Ce25Bn9Bz-kjEEHn4YnHX8ZIj5POyprMYoQfqB8Z04gWBkVNR5hX5kK3KyxIuN7IUTT4vBPB98GC6ubYj6bkVTRSF8fApMd2_3lbikwQkZz7D-s4DRruIJMAgTUwwGwQwTd9nafqKgkVX=w800-h453-no)

When I was removing unneeded wires from the harness, I got carried away and cut the wire going to the manifold overboost pressure sensor and then decided I needed it, as it helps protect the transmission against the high torque from the diesel engine. I soldered the connector back on and replaced the broken sheathing with some from a spare harness.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iCNFrJ7T3eckO4K8VH1u3-3WkGo0dLtgaB-68--Ys1-KyT-rDDpahc7IEp5JjqHxFNp8wDPn7cKxYYx66Bt6dCQgzj3jf_omJQ09fFWDV-WlQotNMElY0DJB5VDWGXv-JmoJULX-cdWw08P7iij8dXOFdG-2_0zg7Ofpd_vSnNg7md3-3pcvKNnN5m3rgR3t3v8CeKcpnSMMRIGZw_b0la8kKb-lIz2vABz1s4sLbzxtT6U10WMqjw_M0fWX33yYQTdbR8ncmXgeor6jWNpEfWcl5KQRgmtwHUy121s39gs8bAJ4cWldOvDjvbU11X_JlI8bxLV1i-Cq1FGab-dZ1BRWp5lBF4VEfN_IcOjYm48lLTbUKp50BDppZmZsMn5lTSOlzAH8e-FMEner97Of_zb4YDEogSuP1eVjjsmYRHMMPNDijjGZH4D3k9oxHk8iMqkeD9xpHSh4Y_9KwBUU627g2QuOAhaQ0CTA83uHvhxOHArzEsl8VhxqBJSJsnNY8Q9jSFQSNIJzbL1fqZF1XzfWzI8vjudymBRYkFfD_ZFBT-BnLQWKlggfNk5RhWEyWguPW4H0bDC7vDHg_y7Yev1ZLX8DdwfQXeDtePZsam6AncMJU_NwVLrEQ3T4aR87SnF4fAPkjXjkQulMWljqLtowvQK6ACpQ=w800-h453-no)

The connector snaps into a plastic housing which has a cap that screws down over it.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/WCDIXu3M8bDPK1sfYu_LcVcuFK-5Hg9BUGLgDtM2py3pdMpQtDzV-byPk1wmnNQhqPApdQSTMB9DbtbA858-RRbu9zCb-_QefNvFTNUMNcn1Bw9-7NzEBuxAAvsE9kLQ0fck9a37rDbsZp5PfAHT_cEO7MWDavbUppJUw1ClJ7YivOWJeyHBZyMfVHpcxhvedPL2XVb04dG1SZ0Xf3esz8gGyvmBeJxTK_JyQCwBTW1rhRzFNXOvIQMDgyWmU_6H4ErkCDIbf7LexBbjE2_XeWzNvPEIA9ana-okVUkSmyoHTakIZGvKfcAlFbjh4KtP0TJLpu2r2WtkQXkfLBhLGsBrlEgRvtACYBcmGFoM9WqqqZhI0AjwWYaZbEEBnqKG0gcUiuB25FijBTFXiHbOibP-7bN4dQLXDFE7i-46IQ3in6s9KNWPq6AdcH9rhXvgkxAvO9ajXVSRlmYi52mHF2OZo4j9F7O3Ia1m1hI55aCDUQV_yGzbCwlCjn8dR6JiMwceXikYUirDygi-bJaH5a-SdnnqYlMxcP_J7HGChaHVzIArf5WmRc-FWuNlufQmbP75fln3PmaYb-C4D2g7nIx8GyUkuvBHSkNVssNudfeEJ5QVp-m0zqxNO0pigeofMP_IlghIwcRKgOUfhTRxU9KomqUbfr6T=w800-h453-no)

The wire rerouted and attached to the manifold overboost pressure sensor. The sheathing can get stiff due to engine heat and age, but use of a heat gun will soften it so it can be bent to the desired shape.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/i8opHs61mKUiMT_nYEHn1XIBbvLN0QaXX_N82quieMAPOzrhLI0YYVJq2MLIUOFn9mfud7s-aGQni-bkPLrLlUNPHmhVPzNtQSGlRIKdgqB4NLH66oqTAFQsqW2djsf_VcX324L_3BfiP2DhIaBEiwfNGqVx_4bDis3trCcVFzvebO8stu8vxO-Hfq3RNnbAxkWUZgkVvJdigBeNbpm45BYRgTsCNghS4n57whBbgUWVivdr1vn_qHcR4tGa6yQSHqVTNOsL286Mo3fX2u9wHGVxrkSbFpTIwMF3BMylEO6UVReYyZ-3Vj1JIVMe2-mX6GvX9KHyJD3_g1xFdA3Z7KAKVTToWbf4xFHSUL-yntc5RtNm8VKCm_gBBnrrLyPjyLxfy4kHa0ZZQv0aS3sWdZqe0E8cPjvBTJS3QqJ6leJd8Xg1JKCqOPAoun0s0NR5THYuIdMtqMwLBOEQgDTkxjrfqn7LfZQmQ1zJkQHo3YMa1Y-lYzkTqEDxZ4N2P6r_FAILJFTM4aGFrGIzH3UJoxAd4Gu5HqDSCGX_SA33c2ptOPZLdWyqTnYrRcmyvZqupGCbA35yzsMMx8YHF-6TxZsSV6bGIA2QjJcco0z4oqqljfWDPCImkDWXpwnDKlTL1UsAplmcgLzm5EWQChbQdhJCR5xk91oE=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 01 August 2018, 03:57 PM
The wire harness coming through the firewall is finished up after some wires were removed and added. The wire going to the manifold overboost pressure sensor was rerouted to go through the sheathing that used to house the wiring for the auxiliary water pump for the automatic climate control.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/liyi5Z9Gdvk3omdKLfxrk2UQOFWx76FswGBYRM9vzVp7YR8mN-GT85qR8VhbtEFku7av-Egr3okUff8kNDK9l_IidWs_EBxA51hvk8A5BZSTNZe_z51-Ep6q7PXa8QCLotqMWywP_V_heZfJOIyOhI7s_APrJDVrxH4GW2FtCeRf_1SJ5S_XaXdW87KK9oQEW3kV0wBgRcSQcygWctw9ylZTaZTEzqF387VMmea2Pimy8LlGm7yhCcUclrDAOyju_yP4jm_Ua2Hq0G95z4HJWJibRceRY9AuFhyGfyKo9W9Khiaq_IfsAsZ8iWmdIER-r54kUgB_EtP-Klbf4Ux7JO8XZsrljtAoO4MzT56-9uMBood18DhjyvzzvRMPGZz-n4bfikth87tVBWKpxPpIwEE8MnUY6Kra6UvDkc91KVZdWcHmycllIHARIHlEhmy2ZO8PheRQrfDJ2wJeL0lEPE_atIyELEkMYU3p_F6kv93wJxccJCXeOmT4N4BLO2ZIUXMYIYVHmTC-_Mlkgpwm13rxu-lCz-A7s6exsrTc6v-cryKCOHgL5ch3Ci76c6XzgBQVWgY5F2BK5TP45fO6zOaRF14XAEJGgqcWRnMyBa8Rju8KS_SvaD2Iuyyskhub0i0xyXlN-7FoW8jnSmWtTvq6a6ZI3QSa=w800-h453-no)

The grommet on the firewall that used to hold the vacuum lines to the automatic climate control servo got the holes filled with black 1/4" pull-through plugs ordered from McMaster-Carr, and then the ends were trimmed.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/KaSmE5kkjUJ-5wljK-S2LAAFV9f_bDk26WYFccmsUk39OTHrE8gFPBauhjyGJiRcyZGp6sfaWNQUsh49pAMExRwVPzztq8qc02ljFNv9o8RXvO_UmxdBd-dnFx0b176aVpR4wT3kJaRMH9f6g7kePEk3INIaZRDiBtqPdOjsTmMRTNc6ifcenqphT4CLpfOaj2IqvOpFKXtRajLgw7-zNHWfVhZo5BeynljxrxyPsiCTPFtz_eRZvTE9JBUfQgRA8uJhvQ3ONdWRpURS1kz429459p2vw1hohxO3nfsgLu6x1dQwebKtLPy0oTKIs8THwrmXZ_9YkvDKgXAbdIVPr0w3WpzxkrBGE8ZoOVvzmMZJFuDtC2F_yI-52ltOfDFcGFtjXkoU1uXGgQEUjbheC4_6HxNpToOFLfn_YHUGMGJDprKKbniCmFhoNDTSHvqzJeLsGt_JV1Aswhc7cqhR8bxT7AgHOWL9yLNLgDV8neWH346XPozATh4A73ZvqQUelHsQVUk2NZIv7iC832s-J0YrearGCrW1IMDuKoxL0D5l4WWXqRLDsQK5lKf74pxQubHlwM8eWJ0rgQKbTY96_aRgRJxB_n0Z0VUuDWc=w800-h453-no)

The new reciever drier. It's considered a disposable item because it contains a dessicant bag which absorbs moisture from the air conditioning refrigerant, so I couldn't justify spending $212 for one from Mercedes, so I bought a Behr one for $17. At least it looks nice and the sight glass is facing outward so it can be seen, instead of like the one on my car that points toward the radiator.

The two brass switches on it are genuine Mercedes, though. The upper one was about $30, and the lower one was only $23 and free shipping on eBay (MSRP is $82). I had originally ordered a $10 Taiwanese Behr pressure switch, but the prongs were clocked wrong (6 and 12 o'clock positions) and the wire connectors would have had to be bent at severe angles to fit. The genuine Mercedes switch prongs were clocked perfectly at 3 and 9 o'clock. I don't know if this is a quality control issue or just coincidence. I noticed the genuine switch has a small screw in the center, so I wonder if the clocking can be adjusted, but there was no need.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Hwl-_1-m5jTUIVUxXv7sDwxrK9NyN8tJyhlqOlG3cp_S30DTZ_0251J7LbO5Kg0ZEeXYcS6KzyiWkeYn7WBeR6JLiNoVa5npvgd4-rPpXa7X-Ea7pxfpWBWFogd5fiuZvCDOzPq4VNcF-FmWInzrGji9Bc6KX59MUkgjyO_Uc6aGvMI3QmWAJwgCA3i-OVXS0VpWKfKiE7JIMgmbMWgca_qBG67_wdv-SzqnHwfHbe5k2XReWIiZmLvDsvIexo7razxENkmpg1Ne0c6eBEtg0gZ1A8p-hxgONz5gdYn1HYnBAIYUIYnkFW3H-BrnUpM9TpZnaqzSKLAnVvf7nmHBWhN01JP2NRWjDmy_iHfJqTK315MwiiyPdbXSpvSizmULMos_JkcRlkPJchiHAx2DZtonw1aidCgp8egqG-9dYRSgPbF3bzwWZCP31sGrHhGjTo2lJg2WsIRIa_O9zYjB3hVhudXEGYIrIiqKDjB0-ZTN-JP4t3iJTg589KJdfFsg0_FpcYdcfPciaaCbjvnJsGPt7Z2unWeXMtFbgG7-Ok05HvGomRhVbWdWckdWaYwqpMt2UhM8UKflyPJJnnY0FIYNKSF-KYiHSo7CxOtDs3GOSSPDkZ4wxYdWGhuaYTRuhbrjkUSZ-5Rp9slJUnXUld-DPVTfTzw_=w800-h453-no)

One of the wires that used to power the power windows was soldered to three other wires at the fuse box, so I rolled back the rubber at the ring terminal, cut off the wire, and rolled the rubber back on.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5qBoxUh-z5N7C7KpB5cgDWq3jp85LJ8uDvbJDt9L-rM2pZeiwIEoM8xeulUtXv9O7HgHDmZHlt_YDwoVM2bAm0zWYCsXUrUjHuRQGr8YiHsy9rwYZ0DyC-_C4VJPFuSa3EP0IzhWGPfIc_QguxSDz5J3dM-N4TowWuMyF7s6pDisLI3D9fYgngFmJUrAmj-rfqOHaZ40sBGvIiP7zHHKi_58a7exfNVXJlsGGGcth7UYMv-FhB4dc0UDzOt1ez4fhwZy-vioxtFu7FJZIEVtX6VawgQ8F3vHmBB1jBeDEYWXHskilUjkmzBCkaALcoxPQE23UpMtsjNDOh-bPMN6DD95Q6WKxX3vzKnQYcaxLgYz6QqK4da_m8aLhray_MvcFEJYSp2xpu1kOx1wr9P0QSf0ykwReMbf6sfR6Q64-RmQTM2uMSv3GwszXM5hsDrUcx9ZTppa9J5asphMyjF0soh8-GslLxwXmT5t6D93s8eIMvR4f-LKeTdukEs1xzLWKv69GIIhvjhElODr-bTo83_309n3pvIF79WQ8r3kpdAaB5_wNrt8y2Jyzb9aql2rs1VP3pPtZfadalxLjVHzRA5z0TQ5pfDy0skWZZ4P5wIxtsZpiP0u55beHXDRJfBvfj1sG3M3J9cIrEy5k0MT3dqdzW7qvvTC=w800-h453-no)

The previous owner must have thought he was an electronics genius as he hacked up a lot of the wire harness to install a sound system which he removed when he sold me the car. Mice also ate a lot of the wiring, so I've had to replace quite a bit of it.

Up next, I need to replace the cigar lighter wires as they were cut off to power the stereo system. They are connected to the wires for the rear dome light switch and relay, so they have to be replaced as a unit. I'm hoping to be at the point where I can start taping the wire harness soon. I have to drive this car to Utah in two weeks!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VKNnD7_zafcvXj8ihZjaTu-lZfDGJTL6zJkEaVIz2t8x12We9CKWMC7SnO9aFds4Jh7S22Aj6u0Fg9AgIYTQobwOBgqJX0chHFF0iUN96rPS9WusJCpk5-XUFfv54DKFMYP0mKjLmRhbFwaUiXUdY_BNN2NBw3A71ezy2i9LrUbt_OCNdQOwsbOW523uO_lnemu0rqaQYZJw2vCkWCKiXVRJ43JpSuy7hbjuWbwIUq0Hb76Gv9qzUXsd2Wlr5zch3cD6uF43wl30S_jAxtmqLVda_SSWWoT2YwYQPKdyE5jRTz4UsrTPdQGtFsFtQbipBjOf8i36A6u9RGw8djEhp8-nwB5fD5sjIz8IlQHyZCG8-toHP_hHBXYhIS7XFB0nvGYNDWebSUcWxfe5jOcx05zy2JNKsCq_DL8_TPRL3faMWdC6IjfB1WMk3CVq31IwRX8kQrM42bieMzYyEO6IowU6UR3euH6554bKHqheTNgynR2ghPcvwd38phoi_pthCbicjTdzkPs-temPpg6T3nywFKP2bWSWf27O6UY62c1_jfdH8VTYyJmfz1FQwStcUhu4YRLgD0xuIthLc3ntsTwAkV2am5WmSGDgIYo4NW2t03yyiX-dX4W9GLPNjC8BxGkq5sokgfpQXWyAN11tsaf3DUb6HWeO=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 03 August 2018, 01:35 PM
I had to connect a bunch of ground wires together, so I decided to reuse the ring terminal from a spare wire harness since I couldn't find any good ones locally and even online there weren't really any that matched. I can get them from Mercedes, but don't know what size each part number is. It was actually very difficult to get the wires fully removed from the ring terminal because they were crimped and then soldered on. But, with enough persuasion from a MAPP gas torch, I got the old solder burned off so I could open up the terminal.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kGG3NbiRHiGZx9mx4hb7S8icR8EpDYLv8r-2r1T1kkitt2M9EksRd8VwjNcSbOPX8eFIjJH354uqlEhQ_NNRbON1f3SytGaucE7LdMrb_1uwYG8ckZohlAV8cxSIdb6xyPxs2RYJ-07yKFZ3J0Vc8O_ks_E0KzGZZT-Z_rjdhZuamfO45oEt4uCN8hvJ1IQ_Pr2ASX0jRXWO7Vp8rQYcT_wviuSo5QmSnNgRPxLTRyoUIGx8RqOVLt_zjBr7NIDDZrMvtiZY_WmPSdASIDl3XaYXNsNIYiGQcWWFFuhfHx_9dtkN6AYh1SpBYEg0ARnlGrg_S_uO6qmAIrMuzTToV1CIm6qeZ5Y-5QclP9aLPacyjRnsQcRwP_eYXs26EiGg1v6ikF6RcxBs_1683x6vM-rSex42at73ztnBEI7bZ7i0lvgeoXx7sEAwjeJYlMGZigN4Bqi8xQYwxqrvns0LHWhu8JqU8fBrd_4G8vQycyZ6bEZ6TvRYtO2JsaGFtKTc4jbowLJcOOzKScmxr1Svu-BXLR3PMzKb_zNmUSdHrXTIj50n1tNPKkrriN4TvP2m06BoGTsl4S0eq42f4znNReL-MV8gJoJ3PAocr4zmLqN5f2Vhfa4kMLXi0SkpARdrBDCsLKMneYaX1V2GVxeh60MSGlQVGGOJ=w800-h453-no)

I inserted the ground wires together into the terminal, crimped them down, and then soldered them like the factory did so it matches the other grounds.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/70_YwFmAb99rJFGpFzTm5GO8YURKM0dQCZteopGMqfJGEaaIybJK0CdiaFySzEnGyIPOp6LZkDs6AnjwCcxLRzc0mb40STI8l9Nl4Js3At7jrtdyN1KtpvEQeukRcFBe3LH3wzzz_qL9gvjhcIhqzXl14SWkuuZ4JwC4LqktLRWf1g3GByiBSvT0_uR0z_G6W0RSsvnkpJOlkyqrKk8OK7Ovl0cZ8p-duu8QBOrpZM3nddec5RJ78YTdd0_EdPZWgDJeENSXVMCcGSnOBRxkOIsO59jCU1bOQMTF4_wZ9dJj28sD7gw5SOcxWVhr1tzXQIB1tspKZJmQV7gElNdqIKtpWMv_f0L4oa7jaa6kx-L3XYFO91qCcppPQudG2J6I223l9oEJZuOW7vE88OCjsvdmpfP40_92UML3AjOj1hb-qlGgkgh1U0I-tDAXXm2pQvJXUij15TmNeEd-L4RuXCZBZp4XrXQkJlDCbk_ZMuahYX4w-AZOVE9rqvot_TcFF0wrSCC95AvFRpuzKNi2UbylQW-6agOhAOiiRBRtw-_QMoUhPWSh3YJIuJYghjd-_Yq_RjDGVT1W59loKPXy1DLqFSU7mj1DILOZM2RfjseMhf3IVLog-BtLJ5-IL1y29YCivzJEjYvm_RmdlGvo5ulr6I8iByUg=w800-h453-no)

The ground connections behind the instrument panel area were very rusty and needed cleaning. Maybe that explains why the tachometer would cut out occasionally.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/IYTiVSFCkS5-LwGIvbRLvvlSVKS_4mSikEgPAEVicxuRLWAnKKNH60fyXxmFXEZ2X2oDqQF-JOJcyyshcOZNiD2-y2-Oh3W5iMyfoZCpVWcPQ0HcnjqTbqhIymgVo_gbnX2f3ijEvnjqcp8rJJFhzFS5EZe_wy08MJPFTM5dpSe6bxXEFJ07ncukUwmVoEAcu1TG8Q-LJ_uUWVjuW1g7QZZO-cjXiwSrZDu-xB_PS9CZQLI1xMXtEiTcVl_1s3yr9tDYohmpwXyuKUQcRmEDsb41ISduJE1m69zN9_EBU6H9EgJncWX9k4a-dSJlP5XrN6lOfDeEkkl9e3Yo8clog9Iwi88U2KR9tNeo0vK-GCEPfq1gNJpyU4f4F2y1ZxFgkHGbiXomWvVaFCrg24OZkGcWMmczRs422XmXQWOCk-KV_MrDhJvV_ezHJ5q3m7nOcTpuR7kIXQpx4zCYfbYxSb3PeWKZDgy0Xei9P-2ragGz5UIeqA5rkNVZHbuDYyc0geKDLRTi-ya8NTL1fL0EVerD1hFeG-JMS9nJP2SXjz_Zfue2JyCHcZCPgYf25aMI8Q5bYkcHThCNQCrmfLznZqXSUP1_O_1K1hlG59ZSku_JN_YbovqtXpr0Sjdv-V3IK3syNBlaO6RONRqchfqX5qWlfw2SQgU8=w800-h453-no)

Now they are all cleaned up.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9ZJkJD1Ar8IjEcvwNDOBBBnX_wjF_HqKReSxgMJnmVXzoxcn6rvw1KAtsTUuOBMzsa-bPatTYqumjT-Zn5FHGb0J9FBNX1HD6McajdVU899lhJK-KUofZ1dOctG7a6j-cy31cgaYgaABwNJPfOqQICz5OQujKY0dp5g_6KgQScBJ4Zmivf1gPpbykxl9E62dMyJm4Ed7qZn5B8sSiz-d5Cr6hdMeBnBBipAnTzgbi5DQhAAkMYj4rrgJjQjfxBdfAx0hzC1GsnMVxe-2JI--btTrYVQ7YRAEIAnKNcye3ATrNqtKwiJmh3JRAxtHo-zYXnAntf9xeQVKXA-l2D7d0zMLeh-VEyKrK0DUHCrO8cuUVK6LsZJA6ry8duwJfdnKgMjkcjRG0SlbXXpgjKUAOKEGbO63F28K49y4aStlA6no01CK1o4Tk3qM0kWS61ku6aKqNurtTPzRV1TR34lezcnxrvcPvPqgH6phy7gVLZkVqqApvuK0BG46PkQVavwPNxm3w7ZJk0dNPrfJXVJWp8AOJ3O6zNffYfNlQ40xaXneYIf3suOsfC4-uXQWcR-5f4DNP9MvbBSn4u83k2ELNe8VHC3zczYorihPYRtjc2PoCzjzdn4RctVaYxjbw0ylIVzypv8NXp9Qd7vyofAnXEWKVMvZU7T0=w800-h453-no)

I repaired the cigar lighter wiring, replaced the sheathing, and installed the connector cover. I also replaced the left front speaker wires with a spare because they had been chewed up by a mouse several years ago. I'd say that at this point the wire harness is done. Now I've got to tape it up so the wires aren't loose.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/koeq6zBMUQVEgpNYj6o9rX2djiPV-aYeJzJJURdkD7sW6mkChWhOproGxJ3yCU4AjASK7UwwM88VgtpTO7kjZ9aenfn7ArKCBaRzNMNeekLmcafy-medxBVGwFEfhRWJNN3_n0Nix8UEF4CcVVBsIX7W3ejBTkJmcMA7UtmszC5LLeHP6klmQFDA8fLC9_iz-xojpHW7LkPxH6A_gnWwgmmRhXrD6fg10-GCaGvwEIV9gNnbxIl5N6YDjnshMt0eR0KaU95Har2CrMft21pA5LdoA0NQnb5gtmnxyjHxWAsb6u-6EA0PJQov7I-qvREC7DoUehhDdrZJO_PPVhFUEumfLa-35M2X0QqqJDknTuSBgXKGaJwFk7aQC4v1MdldqMTcUnSd4CxizoUWWNhPNqm-j12YgSsDfhveEu3pDWW7-hp2dW-146n-9DAGYrrtijSOGnjPXMcUjPRh9x41mEjkTiD3DW9bSeiPl6lsDzC3ofIcquTj-XeTFi0VeuPdRP1MklVNNEXTkIBObF_utFqREFGQHuKK3RcpXmEiB8LghgoqGvy_s5hw0qEsUi7AwIxU0TI24txLLrusrToO9JfqHjmrO19JTREXnB4Rkpbv4-1Vt5N69aCZPcIYzHRNSwi2L-NkyTuB788E3o01s6ZZGjDalcxo=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 09 August 2018, 09:32 PM
Recently we've been having a lot of storms in the Phoenix valley area in Arizona, making it humid on top of being over 110 degrees; which has made for brutal heat. One of the storms knocked over a bunch of trees, which damaged the wall.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9yAQmkfNuE9NNq02kOb51TjNwNlF8ZUJjIFJ9Y61VAOuJobs4sq-rKsd5T74VSebsqRXBc16fmb47MGcTmrGb8JrBbTZfjhkEsQAshXTXpdgxU3agF10bgmBegjo-H5Q-v2xwOHoEeqlpiomCoA7e9iAFXu89T8fvvFttwnhc1mH7xM5WAgEDZf1fb8Sz5jydGwNgkANuMFz9z1YVG9UhM-8PCgxbwnx2FkLfuDv3GHcRS0TuhxNWhRkAqcDIxobDLt3z3uQgE4DL60NCNLFt90CcH8iOwWstuLsjpWi2ljf1665TLelw-CCAPD7jimilhmrsKamFKehWpmh2CnC-WUDuQkVFknIGKGzRWqGNywunj4IY9iP88oAsWhQI0G3xERXwZM8jYtR-eD7ftA6cQ63DNEj9OYVGTUWXBm9CMubfWCPdCAt5FQcoHPM_mIL-HB8e0L_JM_jTqUNjdAscL0RhRm4rtNSC6bkyToNuDJGCa7XyN9cL1uk0kDYK_gWDqZE83y_MNRd-6Ypgpm5fjYly2YdZvlFDIgaZLj_2_9lqF_kwsGDI9rq9A-Qaty_ACLOvQhJxOT5GU08ntWjfb8JGE2DZtAol8hMV8U=w800-h453-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_MeTUG-MblggYchu_rbaA2GakRuCdORGi5hIzNattx7e8c9UR2OHc5_AXFPIsCQQEf-aFu89yviOliUWcCHW5RBXskdYBAXDt3jZTf0vGAfnR9EMdc2r7Fv63ifkQ-JH-mOajoAhaHriT5qNdKLV7WubVmcF0F4ygJIZIX-gCc4iCZhn1Uj7dcZGP1pmpTtBOcc46eP3cHDUz7Qon1mljmG8G6HTBIGc44QG8TCeTJdFP4fzWP2ZHbX-mes3tq1PytKx0Y51r9VBK5uZ6WtDPcKRhf_M8cAnoGPsWx65INz0AcPdmoREZcD4TtHC4ODKb1Y6g7NJhsn7gy4FVBkIpp5c7Od2Qgas-CVq7OBluHM5cJVkhd_MCcG5tr8Uj7XqNg7OMHHRw3KQ72m-H9GfxKH5vjcyHGYu3qVDzUGNrZe9j3c86ipWtSI7uKSP-BI4KzlxCzJfDH1zSYDmhWzyZoV01IR8zbEMrLTmg_DnmWLWppoYowg5bISJSiCM_gMZ1odz8nqHFkTmjK9FH0M34snpa_U37rGccTh9MgiOumKACbazYwfUJFjrNPqfyNfGmeSHaBiDKgjZSk6GV-JuMfKbwvFStOOUb2tvS9s=w800-h453-no)

I converted the power windows to manual a while back, and recently removed the wiring for them, which left spots 15 and 16 open in the fuse box, so I decided I would attach the seat heater wire harnesses there so I wouldn't have to use an auxiliary fuse box. But, I realized that I cut the power wire that went to it, which originally passed from between fuse 1 and 2 to a relay, and then to the spot between fuses 15 and 16, so now those fuses had no power.

I utilized the short jumper wire which was originally designed to go from the fuse box to an auxiliary fuse box and attached it between fuses 1 and 2, and then attached the other end between fuses 15 and 16 so they would get power. I tucked the jumper wire down inside the fuse box after installing it.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yYmfNuIQCVdleOg8pp6iGKHfAi5DESbfADD_sgTFBbvSgMNQX_I1yH2hAND3ZdsHylq00L5_9MpViBiZ9mwkfMT0doOL1z9L68dHMeWtlHBfaS8L-U4OIQbuebYJcg4uTuE-2MQdpwEBuUX-My8uE0YW6maGLMHnDjOg1Wev4F307ERr51RM9qdmfJ7Y7Pz6AErtgqa_GMQD8F3HHdYwhOnAc_RzYbx2cDvmRp6-dn3l_L4AWNDeeWDHlephVf7YVcNp17PcCiX33vcemW6jq4_eVkGkqS23UiCw8NONU0BLb10_lIQaXmw73Hdj06c0xl4WdVDbVwmZXwzA1zCyAXs0ahNRR1wqd5F_9ka0wD-S43azIHG8V324WxIuyiZolIuWFGqoib0LoKenaM657POp_MgWm4oNk23O-R6gj7-KEZ9xKnekK4qeLvaiKzgYCoAA0ZRscVoyb3Qj4bw7oiWaEtgTSDPvWrMkrx1u_GAyvvuyccWQkK578_aKx0xglrVzwZy1hgzHYOljTi8IRg-TwQ240efxamXFOTx-yNgv69PYndGZciI8thctFt_u7OPasb0F3Sla08cTi5ff-scrBsN4vK_01TXCYVg=w800-h453-no)

Here is the wire harness for the front seat heaters. I had to solder on a new ground ring terminal because I sold the wire harness I had and then later on bought another one, and the person who removed it cut it off.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8hph54WNoDJWDdfeHWij5e-ptlpbT-vlHwwUGTCVIo-d7VJkBlJZ2bEl9hbo9sXbC2VjYdsLIn1LNh7y7how0phZA5ZzUnegZEoVwn8AMfAbrDxAjykJSbcQbxgxidhObggyTxcL4Kmjkh1ScqPsteTJrVs8kYSlMijljc3LpulomrRUulCtGqwv3t80NPSvDceaWfWmV4XOpbhm4CJvW3P-1jDJvtVpxgakyYV9oZlZLYU6RVPHvTbJW-5N3WQCA_YECBulMePu_yR7nLiD6_cymBmD3I42Y9o015WjPHvXu1jb8ZulbyEWH9axAxAXvzaUmvgV-i-inZGG4QR6kJhdzgvw4DfHOcwJL7PdG8d5f8IYARNzp0EtPDKOx2h9oE9uTXUItlPavr8zxyQv02nTf0uqtidLOBdiGeZr0uFYb-TdybkR20aYh_iptnuwm8DRrm4H3OezZrrLh0Itgu3jbHILoisbUk8KCpKdOQB2-3Mft6bOgi2ufBzktyo7U3lmJY3Z3xEi6Yi5vCzbq4Ylkm_XH2aq2QXyNwzW8AEOePZxsYnAiDDK1RM8L7wMJMqvBdpiJ6pMfzMPvW_ooqxPUX5n6q-95bMAX2A=w800-h453-no)

Here's the front half of the wire harness for the rear seat heaters.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/FiRCpnQazGO_E6ET6XpsNXHDpPm6_FZwKSN8mwp28swkpUeUzBeGlbWic7zKIcdBcPDmA06NFvRPU_vVvHWniCnl8jUH-DCMMGxNRBjPET_9LgWW_X3qk0rdFnGoOYR7Hp8VQrk6x6wN4opsI3N-nZI6KjwUTI0Xx7qv5-z1UM3o8V5p7L7A6ns837tGFyxJjYsWH6uJmZEIml1oYcjdz1nDb3w50besBA2olzJxXeocHwaKpfMbk8VxNhqmWrbGdUU3PtAf6DbcKDathZ00D8K-2aql9yIzH_Qr7sa9Pg_1_bzZuOY5PQ8esRS1cxIDCnbIWhaJeMDy3AEe7Am8s3LRiPrfBIvUEsD8N2DFZ7_kZFh8eacWd-IRDmwhPq114grOZMi6Yc_Kp_Z44EL165cRLij6WaRMBmT2ANalSBkvAr_2wmx0ZFTOcU8Ys7KmIrdvr07C2Kde5BUCpK9VFHpK3W4ra0PmCH_4tm0ybfeN3FfA6WKQiBfkKoHhWnQWucnY4tBRnlf9l1LawhE6pmCtk2nqj489TjKnQ9fr67z0rMEdvCIwVlAL0JaWcGv9iKdAJFlwWzkueEvoz2Nc58ZrhIC1FglkXYb0k7s=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 09 August 2018, 09:41 PM
The new screen for the new Four Seasons 38604 expansion valve arrived. It keeps debris out of the valve.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/k4wNcEzhIjGjU9q5KCYoxNAcgusLZ7SLnlTELo4eXgRFoRum7gjoWwMIYyUWWuyoeEPzarQJpj5W2Fqnc2WqRWwUh7GMdQ-oprkTA6Q8UyVlXJd97Kx9tDhEGpRUbZtI5-cqWQNJbgjXg-QbOuHgQP0VFlr0qQwBJQodj-JPu3RbzvVuNm25gwRPsOx5jX99U5yYqW8C1pV0PR-2G1VLjF4fXUZlZpDN63Uf7Be-uBMgAUR9rHLEYE7CCzi5l2q_CcVHmTFbEULV7mxIob6znlDJCi20ENw_kckyF6kOzJNNdqONYnjEUfRrTCGlkuRDTws139QQRPGJKxss11iW7PSUtRgAXl9b9jHRlV7ysAXGIGeSeKQL5Xk4GRNh_ja6vxqrTi7zBpfShWJCQ3yOtwTkl_OprB7oAuj8m9z2hRY5firKgS76RhpA24s86El3h5A35wsVi9iwNaVFXYcnbH_P5lhvBJqFzVfrRAoDO8bV2gcXo2zxkOVsbDbs47IvYWGOWYtr5UOU7zX2jwtcMQhj0YZ1DQJh45DrZn4Rp9sFoUoRKHU2jgKJIJJT_bYjaA2ZkRZJAbg7DtSXMMgMHFAu__wea_JVdWq4PlU=w800-h453-no)

I wrapped the wire harness with the first layer of tape, which is 3M Scotch Super 88 Vinyl Electrical Tape. Some parts of it were really tricky, but I started on the outside appendages and wrapped in toward the main body, and then wrapped from the end of the body toward the fuse box going clockwise.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pGm5hRDyzlw3o8UkTj9pVweV16neFM7U-p9_YqaSwSQJSGrYRfcWBwKJrXnb5bA4FvBT9w3MIwuLwJ9TZDEm7E5Owa6Lc_7SqeKEoW7wBR4GYYhNhFOHwn7GkuHSnp3gbCYhoUaoscGrZq2nZpizIdUi8pqCvHOCLAAO4-2bW6dNRjv6WbiFfbaolR1BlhvDzGYarplji-pnas2Ix2RjNRzj6-vDf2y5s1GmXFh-zDd6WkT2529MGZUluau303xtKu6FxugwKc8atfUXzrPKnoSEcZDXkOvy8cw2ZzBxjePEnPi8bX5tRIF4rNrF5b2QtKtyLudwP6JxFi9qehv5fnOE9BAZsbtZbt9-R6FwNpW7U_uf2g1c-GW_D3RSClQRfERscIcOwo4WjrBvgDjZhZlc0HI9gn31u499Hf_Udxw1lxm-hCG_MCARDb2CiqhjNeLuAng8YWzg9CdXHj7DfUjgLGi9Fu3v6UFpK1_YqpoIwvnAfiCpt26f2yAvQlJQtJU62GRtG2gv8DJMsztAtQuATD8qfcmpNr_j3R4sBasJzarEJElXJEjkTEmGkSNpSVwln94LulTbnRsZDEprXKBV5TE-x71KxoigFR8=w800-h453-no)

The support braces for the climate control case are installed.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/J-kv8I1bbYMSKWvmMjm2wffp36kTVs-9DSVV65tywP3_XqmyeXbgKpJM5gTZywgJBuJebtq1HLhUsyulbUev7BmPASU5w0EfDVmxCp0YI42OrPPfgB5pEsOTXfNQ8xsi7eCJQnUhOBe97gRGqIGWgAq6vHNhBV4dpCBvS8mb5ic16ZbWqF4jMNS6mMu3CGeycRn5g88C9U-XsuxLXiC_a3h1PCYQWlp-MZW6HyxvyOwWVcPgPFgPz0idHgqxGMWdiBsh8_MQAAIixteD-0PHg8uw2k-IxS9YbA37KDiSTb5O3UBNT8dNg8uLVztSiIz-9gYbOD4P-BYmtbgncGt6zWbNSp4cNB9WM-8FZtID36nNDmr8vp99RfKhmNUox0u3ScuLAefzlrkjmqJkjIS8XTnBhQSBYURhKAs92J8tUiUjUV5yOrxOJQUcuUdIp4wyUckUqdgufL_rpPHQ-rHpWbzzads3qZFAhVoorKx5bt79QNIwCAO4TNn3ZBUXEAjL6s2u3FUdkxSOHmDnDAr0aSBzINhFE8AqvLw5zOliwdznIvr8uOITRQtYr8xB_a9zuKITWVqyi-k6fai87lxk66cBa4DjSSMfV2G9Z28=w800-h453-no)

The second layer of tape, which is is 3M Friction Tape, is wrapped over the electrical tape. It looks identical to what Mercedes used so it blends right in and it's hard to tell which parts are original, and which I retaped. Surprisingly, I got all the tape at The Home Depot for about $3 a roll! I ended up using one roll of electrical tape, and five rolls of friction tape. All the tedious installation of the wire harness bracket and relays is finished. Making everything go back together correctly was mentally taxing.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yUywYE6NuCavmQX9Yfp6vr6OslgGH4qtO-NKZqDL8KPz1T1bSap3c5fxNYiusa_2ocDJT6COphgcYS16QE71byVtPNUXu2_6g6UUsyO1CFLQlcxn8n48ciKVNXPfa5BVOwZ4N4HqXPZfzhMOwgRdDrIkY5H9MxAIXCtdTPjW1qXA0miJQpITw1f8AEum7dg6JwgvnWoqQ2pi45rNZ8KDZooQnTcXrJR5NjY3JoHR0UZp8rS1AMIOUW-sdOArodhCntb9yeG4ZO-H4FCk2GBarmDP6kStz2PXn3a4BmtSP9T_TqPEFhu8G8XEyipvbdvFuP7gSCcpDebBizWk5mNhhWPBKbIrhk-DFzC1aU-ToQbPMInro-0WRBLePnAyVoSHYj2UgVubrJVYZ9N269y-k_SrH6TtO9_yayEfsQFHJTLiWfQXQbznmxvgnGNCyeTsBil-hrD9DBpvXIFE93BoMH8K6hOin-K_VJdGK1MDhihuPZIXrAfSB1mpepJZaXtqfgutuwTMfw62UcED_bGDgZ25hmdnSHFLi9UYpVLqM5ERaLRtj98pxGKZ3XliAu15eyMsZRNvFcqbq-D_4k1Pi-7HkqtXm6AZH-06cVQ=w800-h453-no)

I really had to guess at how to route some of the wires, especially the ones for the seat heaters. I think I got it figured out, and the end is in sight. I set up an appointment on Tuesday to get the system charged with R-12 at a very reputable shop in Tucson which has been doing automotive air conditioning since 1954. So, I have to make sure to at least have the hoses made and installed by then--though that's about the last day I can work on my car because I went to spend Wednesday getting ready for Utah because I leave on Thursday morning.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZAiTHydtVHuP6c6SC1wYXgNmf0A5VoFxFzsLLGQR3rqDI568cxLYnzp-o7snq8lkANe3LOWA7LrAXpm8TkHmJyJMyckyimU6kjbb8-jAhYbqoyP7ArEdLYofyjPqD9XckPKBsVoptryAchao5iaeG7rCy4VAYsj3BOSxU6fXg380JpfsHXtreQNeZw5zmzbbFSaJxXVhPz9joubzzH1P16bMs4I7stQArsFrs2dKNWAXz0eO5V_Wt2fZbbZ2E7k7qlxYw4DioV3fvY6j8cDJPgXrIBBRfDTRu4jyinzeCfpBeNA9pXcwn05LD-GdXfUOwxJ6J2ZPuug3ZDfQVedcbpGhwjVNQHp5sLsUaJCpGAJgIoY5xf4iOahtG4-0UQcKg35dMQKEWkkgBn7fzqkZ17Ma9dX69is9_g1BqFP19nz__kzYkuvnUxBxfEzf5-4-Cb14x0TPte3v8qIKYK-P7io5W60wlGY7URfyOgUhk552H3jjHD2Lw8_Wg78DErk6d-XGov1pdcYShPDD7ZT9uNtw_9sU4S4AEQUbHTpnC4-fan-wpg-m2YOgu371UJvWjgahuIN6vm2qGSQ7jOW1rHU7toUH6Wt0QuwpCKA=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 09 August 2018, 10:02 PM
Here is a comparison that puts into perspective just how much more complicated the automatic climate control is compared to the manual type, not to mention all the junk in the engine compartment like the servo and auxiliary water pump:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/IfY8vmQbcK3ADwrvX_YFcEeUrVA6fODrSXnoVvksqo_YgoBWJzJzhscRrXWQbHQdjLVc5pdFA3l_I_JrkztJRbJ72NG2C51srxA_ANZNvzKNLNnsIdHup_qAPOgN5_Mebt9eza7wKM4_48nYvbZYfS-M3sdcfN3YV7m-OQ0HCjzAF_SdVFJB-_lG41tHcbsywHoQAh8vqC1s43eSGgusUk5FIMg1SQhRxfyADvBXQ-SOVnVTuWcaiFk-WjyEBXO8SuAUHFsX40TkDDoYxD9rqPhjeaL0F0m0MXtDeUqf-6_mSs6IcdgI7EW6ySnptonLuQ458mGiBn_xtVkNHXzva-5YtRHXohxWXrdopM8Ift6JUuZ2bBcLNOwYC3eGyTFV_2eHtNcGun0dQeuu9wh5so-rRJ5o2svKkIKdfatTu7-uYASTR0znBoSUVTK79IIcZt6kkRCFRrGQk-3nyT-JZNR2Y0w3-TB7jt0qpss2wtDNR3r7IDSVj4C9c9PDPI2ilYtp57OjJ-uEVjkSGkdi4KIlz3beRyDrTZngEkkg5D8HA4W7_2ZkRr6bCrlmSpWztuZMpB43t2Nx4Iw-Z6HHHp-NZ7yD5e83T0mc535KqYKkZ-n5uW_IkOCzro8rOkh8RsNuSb8IAiGEn76V7CyfVY1TDuiYhxpa=w800-h453-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/y1sdm_aM_mMq1RTDzvM0qWan1JzetuoPpAN9Cao3GZq2bNoSv50qgQjKYCkruepZXut8Eou5ZFfsMn-DlIUt4mzsrt3aFbT8fdPyTeOEFXgMJ63nkDwSDQACS8RKzz38yIoJD0Ib5tpg5Y6iOMTN8IQdbZn6ijm1GNZTcniCd5icBudULYaDhzNHbxIWlgbP9373wNNf-yW1yRebMO-Evdzg-wvB3dHNRU76MjJ3xVmvmZs6O86yjyVIlK8gNE3Cmz0jZ-Z9Iw4oddmx1SLSivdYiErhHcZFWdeXrlSrN7mcNChMvMsXnjXPdAD1aQcQQuUtjhMgmTrIvXxAAzmYvkxysMezSH42ggXqpSznNbL7fGVsftws5lcqBV1fNc0EFvefAVQ1fiKMMtDdPsW005CepF7vyTr5IZUBzQ6SeM-dB9I1a0tQ0RIWqn2267uyHxMDu0i5kzogIR58xmM1h5c92Pz9RgIXflapBAlZTAh3o7JcoYHnWBuryU9HW9QKqtu306ZbUsCAL4tv9SKkShpBsiBp_Zyk3CNbm9BYAY9cKTC70juC2VPEl14Yz4aclc4kuOMkClUSyJCCt1oVz9-TtEp_xznNUB2WUIs=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 21 August 2018, 01:10 PM
I got a new genuine Mercedes belt (13X975 004-997-36-92) for the compressor. They are usually made by Continental, but this one was made by Optibelt. It's also six years old as it has a date of 7/12. This must be a size that doesn't often sell. At least it's German and has the star logo.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/18oRh6SxL5cw_Z03zPcoRcA1IOIHnlWgOQ6HaxtPvFARDhSG1fRx1CZKVetMPwnvzu-ij7IryPige15AZaUrWbTusArS6J2Tp-ecHppFU89Ev4Z0donU3GeLu3nMVSt7iO938JbgofYuFrn5AVQwiLpg1EVhIv629tQftfbln48TkvYUIbR3nit2bB2OnipiVpP6umrtXJeXrY7cxp3D8IAOktglsOCC_QWA0rF3g-FCVUfZZCSas15C6Ogm7LotNr_pI5RWrBkFIQSt0Pz_BjRlV3UFphkK6xGGldmgCTJ-867zvSP5doWodP0TrqNsI02S3Knu29BKycbHQQ7yEG9aMpE6GDEYdqFejIQPD7ckTQNMLTutVgMtjjwmtA06oeyo92Apt-11SCtvWVNEH3Ce12mf2nledi_HwTYaKdDyq5GbR8POF9m0xP-Evspt2bMPDjOyQISyIMi4iG5FmIEnrDu4-EK0O--O6Yq1v7eP7eCu7SXU8D6NrsFjaEwPw5JxpnAJnRW4gYL_zo9qFq0noC5b9sBYWVYfBAyT0pIL0vt1HoF-FWvjXFiy5lxmvJ1x6kWqviGq0My6lbY6-ky_K2Eu5oEJfLqjF8g=w800-h453-no)

There is a plastic hose holder that goes between the brake booster vacuum line and the high pressure air conditioning hose. I had originally planned to reuse the original high pressure hose, but found rust inside the fitting and didn't want to risk contaminants or leaks, so I made a new hose with #6 reduced barrier, which has a slightly larger outer diameter than the original, so one side of the holder wouldn't fit. I found that I had a spare plastic holder with a larger end on one side, so I heated the plastic with heat gun so it would be more flexible, and pulled both holders in half. Then I swapped the ends so I ended up with one that would fit both the vacuum line and the air conditioning hose.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/OqksprmqvWC7f9zAJq-DtCZG2i6gIAxOX_KxL04s7cy3UiZ65sTDHiwdVzDpKc6XrdrKAMD3lrxlddf1fUNw19PTnSCNu-14nwxIHO8FWeZYJSbJvvIcBBB2aYUgmfGKV5IieZKNi_eKStMJ0JyAdmoFdgID5gQXHjqcUN9djdqDxXrpipi5fSQjGuLyBK0ZTymiH0tPC7-Or3euOz2ON2SUDByPEvy2guYM_hJhUhSp36l9gm88IO4nV89pPzfnuk7imV1Ozwg2ZjCr7bP-xRxkQi-eOHJx9G9428J4Y_2iWjOCm2aDiqldMkGz3LQclrKiENhihQOfLvVLIe2Uj8nXKvXTJUJCJypCavzFXaYkRS0b2xKF-RCz9YLkFW71-cZVyOfCST2xIQ2tZXBJJrM6FJir3__vOqt0seEC9b_a-U0usbWE3xgtP0JwvSEkMsE_Y10Xopl0MwGJVVCR_S-GNa4hxJp3dGbHmVwNHmYAYAdPXU1qW8ile5GYVnr87fxjiTm8YSgJzRQ8JUJGFGfF__4wTYdDw7o4hl7zVlf9Y0Gj5jcjakPcyetmvfkFww8bOVhbIKr0MTIAury_R5ujr74feA1RhLuh5L4=w800-h453-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vTUpyS2LjIfp-66OGXCnrtYcQeGIQafo8BxHiMdXSbCgnhX50L1wRIIkeqw-vB2s4SWY8Kdi2djXeM6URseHB69Gq0No4CQfoJWe6RkYAHpcIeKJ_euhy8eyiQ0tprXNSFhY7iyfAff_bkbofcgb4HM_ryx8xrCdgdmufroJt8MKNP2GXHrsWjA_LpZ6pjTre9yDHnObCUcMSkefOgDZ4lwN4m0laxtOn3knAm1RWgGiEiV3ouwRp7J3PZxt7LIr0efmfBITqCpCKoPoRrVbTnBXwt3Q0Wha06G0JZogJ4m3zdsS1_EpUmslqPVkzajqWAhQdm0jWRgLkqgfFwqFAWhY4drYygAUCimBOeLK1G3FwUPd0wneBaLPq_esUJVN0zTNa3M-nuiQSPsXtfw8KmVAhtno-16XHi3F4H7V7X_y8obgdim6-mMnrXlt8c6aizelPVzZeKBuoH5y5G5B5pDSf815R3QIY6zE2KxLrFPzu43xdLZyEH1_qMySawk_l63IwSGYEAa9LeJDm7S-OFG7z35pvJ9e6PzcEU1wvpZ1r-foWqg_io_Dmdqgr0G3UnEiQWYxnl4DrUh9VXoXZhQdxoMeihbhRBkbVcc=w800-h453-no)

I used a Dremel rotary tool and a file and modified the Klima Design Works oil cooler line support bracket so it would fit on the power steering pump bracket.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xNufoQZj3mKeTIGccheon70XZj3oirhrosLUSQlUp7aZdmS-alixyZBcADMioKbItnDiWh-WXsGrRXdDgIsGxdS5KLKDnR8v9P8je57hIYgnpVuX8e0RJv_lSm26vcj8ltItyNKMnZlEBg58nKs4JVLGHcJcNveHP79B918_ebeTOvoqcLhYbRJt4bX83_5OIU48CoryI1k9MhgChbA0f1hLKtkddCkzlGCTZF34Mo7cby3aaPgo1e8x28P92ollOSRS4OcQ38EcSFJUEn5-Ek4lOp0yYTjau277hYKFjwlMWbCE3s54V3FkMeQpPFm6IWdu7cRLxGj7UdSbQMHCUqjSxb3kfmpW56HpS64gEUbGXLf5vlSJK2YDNfqmjMqCbTnAHGJFYc_vH6WH2-u6oJ5TyBz7RP0DHYg5QJBAnhM1KOvFGGQhKzmmtLbdMZUuCCefVobwkd_Wyh8WNcZrMF6IxVA0Az8xJWhh4SKKM7ZzFYg37i-CO7hQAaAHSAiRuH9pGQz1A5kl5pQNmMwnEIqM_idup9uam5xkqhF9S4fg2Oo3XjGiTOyvRSihq_pFCzzvRlq1PtZGPWxIB5N6ZeRD91h6Y7A7oCNQBUI=w800-h453-no)

The new Mastercool Hydra-Krimp 71550 hose crimper arrived. It comes with dies for #8, #10, #12, and reduced barrier #6, #8, #10, and #12 hoses. It worked fantastic. I paid $166.43 and free shipping for it.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vjim-SC6FfElbQ97Tvh_radSbmpjs06M1CQVNWHpDUre69kbfgQyKuDhc1dWlPN9qeIabVqcSumbjAV-oDQo3usH07iZLqF63CH3RR2rR9NIknuU0M6rD9jqWrzCuoa8E2RX3iBBDhDnoEc_wPRtESUQeiXDiBqW3P4fAPY9SqzRZSWtW6WSioPYDo23AhhpEuFZt8ZypQbQ7sQKLhVL66bxOXcJiPK3VDggLGcr_9lVPiYcnFncZicA9rtAv_bSHR0YLrN73hxB8spOTX59Ji2Y2vs6XQCEiIneRefMmqSm5ckFX5oUU_7pNlsf34mdd2xC_33Ow6X8dn78pQ1y8IpLJH_sw5MJk5uou0Id7zgvNhQdiXUWdHFvlFjAhDVzJH4cubAxx9IcVqjrdKuIy1dFsGGB55fv_I-1sZ9YwfaHNksGnNU76JMChRBPYAWrqDbQ55a8cNfGccqW9myy29SpIsWrGzoIuWYiSgw4qceMDtoF75HppTXqDKYR-KxSDsGp92Ssf1BXz6zPwVfXSJrY1BWSpc1h6I-CkHougeqGKiv1vfo0WB3VlUaSGFdA54Dd4NDBGMbFxmQiBBFeFVETi0bp80BEEBqF85s=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 21 August 2018, 02:04 PM
I used copper flare gaskets for the hose connections. There are four sizes used.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/T4RktqFojSNEzpQVLV_bSYYPxOxag6v1qzo_YaZGVCKDWZfHLysRhNSUdcBPj-su92J-RuD4FeWdwHzHLdCRUmkZmF4-a81FPSasAWh0LKQD79_HhcDudGaS43S6L9w4bKMrVWw36gBOMFbgYmAcPZaWOGbCFZSGar8ftjuBN_CNla69hiWzua9tYd-gfGYoVnNNucL1q-UsE_u3cQxNAzaPnxdcU0s6K4tKBGEIe0jDXaoItva08K_jkH33ZfO3sRS4ttB9xc9KUBz74zxN-oUcsdvNecWwOyK5aWoZIOWjnjvgWeqdg_SNlXsbEQmUqSMMUXOoJ4WSa0qzG12a4C8C36vi23boiRZTLi1h11t1uv1SAJXkW2XPyGuNzCi4XkET7SGHIFl-iBxUe0xNzMHIvsK8R_eJsx7yxhjPsys9lAYLgxzxO6K73Tp5ftObW20NUroSkn_cWyfRaI4oxh37Z_ozxgkZ6Yfpo_rirrtTcbrfZZAOTyTA0_P7NGse8MIFVXGoTxIdQONbpmTaQiUdmOeWLXrNYOxFrY3RRzgJiNKRXx5K4Dsqj2e6zOzk5Pu31OG1IA7vRTVyVvOI8nE7DLAdEAJYejtgPm0=w800-h453-no)

New grommets are installed at the firewall. The large hose has a 113-997-01-81 grommet which has had the hole enlarged so it could replace the no longer available 116-997-24-81. I put butyl windshield installation tape around where it meets the hose so it would be water-tight. Even though the new high pressure hose is a little larger than the original, grommet 116-997-03-81 stretched enough to fit.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/1sIz4TPV2XzwJjZpqyVV-R5TgWsi0WBYowG1Vn-tIpzj21TJKD8zvHUtoDbvTePun5WLpdMfOG50ZVlsmAhASMruP0plhiiuC0TasMszpVzLgq5MgeNK_7XJWmcxcC3rWKibEt7Coeg36bsEvGF5zK5CnnygIurEzbUWLcmL0zjejCf829PwP9tV3bOMaZOI3ISDmbIjLjvUP--vl_2f4nARj6-mFBhHKy485t5gEQbhi5m40QGBVZYZMe5PSgfqtIgLQeXRu1rDssy_lXSS4XTtfm2-tXY70AsUMF8met_vuwunqCY2q5uAwUkgS9zqxx9wAyttKHdf6Gy2GE6EAWjMhwUbUx7DNdcne_KNXPW4d-VuIu2Q6eNGRqXhR235AtQ5cQ8UqzBoSrA04RzsIlocEt5vAVY4RQG0GUfk186bMmRwHlMbF-h7M8AKnFNdDW_Iya06YSv4t7mnUEvowxTZHNz53hblVtihhZcbyTzNO-AfJfJTINeaHpFIsGKo0eago2Q_Y5V2Ss951Aq5AOUUND0ps9_ThR4kASsMaX9ZesrWnx4fG1jpYUngkEXpNRS5FApZ25VoIKNBDRCyuXXTxOTkYbziAEVo7Gk=w800-h453-no)

The Klima Design Works bracket now fits and is installed. I had to drill out the hole on the side to 1/4" so the zip tie would fit. I tried fitting a Mercedes one, but it broke as I think the metal is too thick for an original one to work. I had a lot more clearance for the 180 degree low pressure hose fitting. I ended up removing the rubber from the hose clamp so I didn't have to struggle to mount it to the strain relief bracket on the compressor. I couldn't use the provided metal line holder that secures the oil cooler lines underneath because even when it was tightened up, the oil cooler lines were loose and would rattle, so I used the original from the R4 bracket. Since the new high pressure hose was a little larger than the original, I had to use a bracket from an auxiliary fan to replace the one that mounts to the body.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gosa2xVAyQojNGO5d5tUhwBZ5O2elmk8a0KKhwRclntZiwhPfUqN56PzFZjn4K0LjNBWQn016Q_rC0v62D3lSZJZQxrHtpfyrIyz3re8-o1Xk4GM18IUFYY38RBmVKnIVbA3Hst3_UOU6ZMowZwcYdEu5wvw3Yr4X84z39xIt7ilTswDXkZuehPyzaQ8oDJ3YADHRACO_QT1WcDbhAnZEsWvaYJdLL9dckX_5WvrTV8rCmMV0gszJ-rAGFG-548La8QLdDLorVQeXgMY5TGIXY8AV7PVSwDGvSdveHmsW32cNuILqp89bB0VyRNkGPR7M97Erf8ZxzC0FAQM5WEcYrwVhSWmFF3-5ftaikpvTepaFwiAHvTQMtneFILtCcwTrEKRYAv-F67iG0VV5g4OshKzV7mzmKw7f_aJjNDH5D6Es-I7VjeLSldYjb4xdBqjFTAVVAlbT87VSuT2stTH7sQ8CmbcacLmUZKs4WqkIkTsoT2l3V_BR068H9bIrqCObiQI0YBOZKQ6-fnKU1KKweyoohUG-Dahpx1n25ET1J_ej_wfJuzzdR-J3OH0cOo3YIrq0zSMXWpvrrOlhT-nc99PKwZbCPHQvJuGTko=w800-h453-no)

I made the hoses so that the service ports would be easily accessible and both holes on the support bracket would be utilized (it drove me crazy that it wasn't being used before). I have rubber U-channel which will go between the support bracket and hoses once I make the low pressure hose hole a little larger. The low pressure hose is #10 and the discharge hose is #8 reduced barrier.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mchQVzIe_qpWuMhiLnHA54NVLt_MWL9V_fLhA_n7HDlA9uCDg-bW4SMGtRWLBANlYY51XVqqh4fBGZPNXykwyMA6ybSZJx2z12gMiFRZWzoCBGG7g1tlxfFKo_Fx7bIJQSI-P208eGXFKUNYx_M8FVb9YLua3SHXJELW6Pmp87aTcse-LVXh7EYDuwhyWIkQP3_fKMAdGgq9XHSOkHQ36w3RY0Mv3oVVBnluO7dLPisQxse7Tw3RxuEXYxpTgdouYng1fznIJTcC4CmP1s64UcY1MMVwbBbpPxcj2ciVsH5Js9rrPr82qQEHlEfM1EYxHTnqkCMuGrVpRIcKHHJra5aTIjt1rs1sX-PjaNtwPGLtbQYdQXSIaaM4cWd4g9NP7prAbhJcAXEExVDyKVRdTswHhPwdKV63GYZgsWQi_QZvFyPgaR3Tnwraxp0KASYlhuBy3vvQdyVkTnNtxplZEMn623EErjivXuzVl_IxIIP6VSIU1wBl4ftiarogfqx9-Gy-kbE3QMy5FpsEHqx1vfpYXMwiXbO8kqsl5EOy-InAT8y4rR3awtfNkxP3p1clfbmsgvrk8dEVpmRz7a0nNSxG-J9yGWJ7BVRVyg4=w800-h453-no)

The discharge hose routing is a bit tortured. There is a 45 degree fitting at the compressor and the hose bends up toward the support bracket. It gets close to the "cigar" fuel hose, but doesn't rub on it. I used a buffer ring 116-466-12-82 to keep the two air conditioning hoses from rubbing. The larger low pressure hose takes two of part number 116-466-08-82, but I ended up using three to keep the discharge hose from rubbing on it up front. If I had to do it over again, I'd use a 90 degree fitting at the compressor and then put in a 90 degree elbow splicer just after the support bracket. Either way, I feel a lot better about the hoses I made than the ones the Klima Design Works kit came with. The hoses from the kit weren't used because the low pressure hose wasn't a very good design and the oil cooler line support bracket needed modification to fit at all, so I'm not happy with that. The compressor bracket was good, though.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2s8qgmLKm1r1WwaxN9PdJqctD_Iu0E-O1BkosqZMN1lEiOdjBQOsVLYchiH73EK6rWfRU56Fl5zEbAqzh6kHd8uWkjRDlIp_3oe_YGp2rkCojz5AGeMoia1ZKZkqJYIhI40u9tO6BfRmYP4LNmIkrasDxLieNr_7oUq19_iHQDWRCNQiXuLN_GxgaFFyDmRU7l_1vLW0KO2zli-1XPEaxQP6SJ4NkZLLM8HOGWWA-RdYxf3YXeEhQFXQPTX3za8ACnCDYZX1U9aniLibCxR-68tJEmR3EUqE5mway37xkEk7oQdEjisex8DCUgyH-l3x9lwl04RNCTNBbbFskkmxflkRGZmGs3nfXNjfQeClPqCWRWzvsfdQLelFOPS6jGw5IHSnIMJ_oOT8Xa4oNxQT7_DVNZ8pt9CzvPSJXYve8RL1NlEVtpMPDOEB-qdIKnwC2VY33aPLzmajlHihwFulLCI57uSAJt1OmXOVHC_aLi9K04o8C4YmjqhHDkVAK9oav45eSRzv92bOOYSvJ7LAYUu9EcZWgiwe_PiiB9W-et_bKSVm_FHlMujIm19w46LT6JWy2V6WTWvtviVtcvQYDiSXn1U_bUXZFN2-DII=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 21 August 2018, 03:42 PM
I replaced the cheap hardware store grommets that dry rotted for the condenser mounting brackets with genuine Mercedes ones, part number 000-997-31-81. They fit well!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rhWkBWboAp32uVv5RkqaD6L2krc1xu-Fk6dSyh_jpvR4y6_xtnN_z95N7frFaQEUXBFZbsrepWaR4mEbzgLq_ZUPmbXtu29nbl91bzmPcp3sCNX0QSe4FzPEAGrdLRbIElvBR0lzTEsntcwgeVgd7c7sGf67WGSUlS3DMu6I3klf0T2lzPU_QwIas_vBfuZukp_8MVBBDahQYDEi5x39elcA_F4x7kygKgPtp5Lx4u4Nr6tSPiIA25i93XolynsSZrkbBLPP8wl-x6kAJ2rn64FjCVh5wDCY1siwMAGeJnk-Sl2VDzCCywDXJF6NnJiCQC5LMH1zkXLx7-P6OarTQAaXXaFFYd7VrHZT9lGvDI3yak_myYHblRY0b8kZPe9N57iePECX4Ah4yjZcxgK0RI1jamcw-poShHno4zgqEIHRX3RM2fAcZfWLfZFbkG5YzNLZiKlDHEXMfzhPC58PV7WNaGg9TV5FF6fO2beIIwX-S73suDcmGS0ali9jHWMFIDKv5tv-MrUVXimahtWpo5noAqnXlXc-l5ID0bQZLYsqBNuhdc94SS8PcCn6c9NBE7sLO9mOzT9NjbDPs-awYAYInuLx2LqjtAp315w=w800-h453-no)

I installed the new receiver drier and found that the threads for the hard line were closer to the drier than the last one, so it was nearly impossible to tighten the nut at the flare fitting. I had to remove all the condenser mounting screws, unbolt the drier, tilt the condenser forward, and use a crows foot wrench on the nut while being careful to not break the headlight glass. If I had to do it over again, I would have fit in a larger condenser, mounted the drier inside the engine compartment, and bored a hole for the upper hose to go through the radiator core support.

I was up until 2:30 AM getting my car ready to drive to Tucson to get the air conditioning charged. I woke up three hours later to drive it the nearly three hours there, which is very difficult for me as I require about 12 hours of sleep a day in order to function. The shop spent about an hour and a half vacuuming the system and charging it with R-12. They came in and said that there was a leak at where the expansion valve connects to the evaporator, so they were going to evacuate the system so I could repair it. After that was done, one of the people in the office said that I had driven a very long way, so they would allow me to repair the leak so they could try again.

I removed the flare gasket and they tried again. It was leaking in the same place, so they had me remove and inspect the expansion valve. The new Chinese Four Seasons expansion valve had deep scratches and pits on the flare surface, so they told me it was junk.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/O65RiIZmTMQ1p5Vep1xiJEQUmxbInXnwj3rtaNtYbcJtW52K3-ax2H2TKUnEpUEaFfVywpNwhMPS17AkK7Ph_JwyZvMzJR32zwXhhxJyQVB6n0V4XDqQBqMkfCUZGp8drOZLHguo0q9gk6DIdgN2CS0qUfrb1PDh3rpq8HJtUmlwd_LBGHbUvDdu6OummH112izgmxuzHaTVVYK52LTzYr5bJCd6Md4JBHGOqmYk_o3cyTtfXO9eaxHDPxTrgpFlWGN_H6endDIndstbeWHP6t0ndbvL44tuhN6ZcarphEAs7FoEJfo0uDnWZbLArY_I49IvGDbEh1jPrwGe7cDgo8NsQaLUAhcw5xMcLzEtBFPOGg94c-22IDTvMe7HoGwe_kiqMktfV0zYa4bfSEhIL11OzakTIQ_WOgY0bFODeA1EHXjVahyUJWT8VZ6cMS5ovARu5S2jjmpoEc6dO1o954XeLPu7eKK92mJPB1rInhnG-JxxAFhzl1zIrXQAYvz_8G_J0_TDHVhgEpmfCVa1Q29n5fF52StXJNcnVhRNvevsVl57fJ9xXtno8rzJgEu2dcphzqgN5zpy1BiS_slOCmhjR-cebDQt68ip92E=w800-h453-no)

I asked them if they had a 38604 expansion valve, and they said that they had a parts warehouse next door that I could try. I went there and they said that they didn't have a Four Seasons one, but they might have another brand. I said that was fine. They came out with an old stock OEM Edelhof brand made in France, which is what I wanted, but they are $200-$300 whenever I see them for sale. They sold it to me for $50, which was a great deal. It was set up for R-12 and even had the screen filter already inside. The sealing surfaces were also machined to perfection. What a difference between the two brands!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dyxMlxV_1bM5qqt7mTxcIHYxnaAIuWl_CPLBEW2p-p_ke38WROgVWJwHoMRt6eBuxaTWUMNR89KtLStnFgq6d4tgywBpphR5EWFql3yqJPgz2SBB9p6hoBJc2sOItFEMgiLFQCMSyqfJo1Uqilp5On2UbnWGvX6_W1zwAcK0qeDZC8WxAsGXE4FJqf9rxkyRU5vK5Zhegowv4d33TCfIJYl292hM6KKNsziLjSBI8sK4kUs5M3oY3CbL2FVNdJtTKBwlr4VfR4U579_W9f5d8g5jk1YRmj3iYwaLLGy53JBxwseQK3oqIG6Donq0rehFPDXuTPUo_FDpLm5SQ2LYVrg1HYEjyY3Xp5uvgoreHhU4Fx3afWkqm4UJTxHepSAhPK5gnJCv-CHldIW3qb5nRnq4F4ungrgs9fU-FtavkuNcg2tDDYXWZLiNL0miZbhYli87EYdL1_iCGQG5o6GwGTcbBBTzwnIBTZbFsvZe5y0m4RkVxt2WaVgmD6HEQzoD59-D6ud2XBWpLzv6wwjTUeD8tggHPwUTZN5ZJmxaJoIHtS4KSjk5UrfMFpaD5hSR_p7DVGOq3kYsp1zdsUJra7OKYcrZ-ceix62ntiQ=w800-h453-no)

I installed the Edelhof expansion valve and they vacuumed and charged the system again. They told me that it was leaking even worse than before, and that they hate flare fittings because they don't seal well. They let me try again, and I decided that if it didn't seal this time, I'd try to figure out a way to replace the evaporator and expansion valve with an O-ring type, and then I'd have to make new hoses. Upon inspection, I saw that the aluminum flare surface of the new Chinese Four Seasons evaporator (which didn't fit correctly in the case in the first place) had deformed because of the imperfections of the Four Seasons expansion valve and the many times of tightening it. It figures, the two Chinese parts I put on my car were the ones giving me the most trouble. I put a new flare gasket in between and tightened, loosened, and tightened it several times in hopes that it would seat.

It being nearly closing time and having been there all day, the technician came out and said that it wasn't leaking. The total cost was $244.12. On the nearly three hour drive home, it didn't seem that cold and I was worried that the refrigerant was going to leak out. But, the vents weren't installed so I wasn't getting air blowing on me.

I spent the next day trying to recover from the lost sleep and attempted to put the rest of the interior back together so I could drive the car to Utah the next day. I cleaned and secured the fuse box and installed new fuses. I spent hours struggling with putting the dashboard back in. My hands were getting cut up and I was frustrated. It was after 2 AM and I told my roommate (who almost never sleeps) that it wasn't going to happen, so he said I could drive his car.

I slept for about three hours and got up because I had to take the three dogs to the pet hotel and needed to put the air conditioning controls back in so I could drop them off. I got the controls in and wired the CD player and ash tray, so even though the center console wasn't in, at least the dashboard was in and I had all I needed for the trip. So, I dropped off the dogs and started packing.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jFGGBQLCHR9EsWpegdxP58F31d7ePluYfeUdXi7LAOTXZ889sqO92BoNnCYvoSjgyjtPIT_LUwB3vpNC0JeaEXJ8i0ZfBBO51gOJmXUNx_ZxqsGdN1yIQbD1ynh8rrMEf2MMy8WPmh1d0jWnbc3RhJ2lVGzSeFpIK38B9MLCcEgx7N8YKV9wgo8hblxRHX-lG2QDKtQf3TeKAreF3maAxr8MFPhPCzBYSBQejlk-E3DG8D36SpeEFsz36tUi6uqhwlIm2RKexzxEG6QdKTcC6WwFqyyUMTKUVWWMj9WYkIPsF65ayk4c_iAWQ_oXH-MgLuZPeI7ssXCKQs3LH6NYZgNv47zQeFhz8rjBlMXX77uKf7jyrSgT_OsdW0T4hJoWvePyAaExz394tTklnb5iQLGd5YkMCN_UH3LdRGsqEvpLY46cRGcFOKLrOH6cmo5wbEGBwzAqo0ZyrWOS5RR2utlvJRkfntMdudr_mRXMVQjcwO9K_es8XyqSdOuAzTfV5kKAmdHmeM5Wvw5euHnjrvka42s7G58AV3G3pYxk07neyrldeiC9bWl95pjEchF26qH7ZT-4DiRbNxIA3obayqi76SmsFcnxrSl1Qoo=w800-h453-no)

The air conditioning worked fantastic with the vents in place, even though the recirculating air flap wouldn't stay shut because I didn't have the vacuum lines installed. It got cold enough that I had to turn it down when we got near Flagstaff. My roommate came with and we stopped at Delhi Palace in Flagstaff for a tasty Indian buffet. The car did great on the drive, but I was feeling horrible from the lack of sleep as we got close my parents' farm in Utah. I didn't get to sleep until about 1 AM. I was disappointed to find absolutely no biodiesel stations along the way. Even the Moab Chevron station which had articles written about it offering biodiesel didn't sell it anymore.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VP-r6S8YjI50Rg3tRGYZLjSb3Csr-H0eQ6xvzHz1tb2-6HxVr_qYqRq_kK3Q1oTuYKMc3L8PCTgfiPZj7KXCmMkaC8sqYDWuDc0jByXwxvPUYDLoNXN5gH9R-ciwbJEtAJqCeIcrqXgw5W8n2IvVxX154Zy-uq4UNVLZxcJEipP2gTZ8IEqiAQ91v8QUH2EFwOVOyHB8hu7bLFEzKxenZnyLcdscei9VURweqgeQtZG13982ekMzhlYmtYsdc-RNWL4mcAGtRi8NKXIvnPDm-30i2E9m8FuYsgMcYg9KLdcoCacjHcWAJhS1ihMZYegvIvM11cgNKd4JYLZn8YKFlAMGyGwOofgSc0br2O7bHB7LYx-onZpxgH3EIZ6-2KKVUSEHweyBxaJq3HyzMu-FpXWPb2LrWQwyU5YEC2ivhDm9kEtFmqbXf_JgvyrciCtlqOTXDQKWY_qH6zYdEPkMfJizFeuwzKgjb7I1hGACTZ7vT47RppbToXTanf9X_2XaCecZap3e2dPNNnCyEHj3DmibqeUXZQdLgkm8kHuIWqugroFtSfoz60R6N9pRC_aUowOtISpPFuIbkx_tCIfPuckwH4OukFXF3yHISgY=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 21 August 2018, 04:44 PM
I found that the air conditioning in my 300SD is even colder than in my mom's new Toyota Corolla! We went through the arts and film festival in Helper, Utah. We stopped in at Udderly Ice Cream, a newly-opened ice cream shop. I ordered a non-dairy raspberry sorbet. My roommate has a little octopus that he brought with him and took many photos with. Here he is in the center, resting on a cone:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pxe6qcUn6n5NB_KZZmvLPZn1696gfZl3TIOh3bGNYWClcendEG6FR_JUPHeL1vACHc8pK1RbeAYiyuriWB7PnFPJbWNybJACDK_txLDF_2kmDuvlthGFFrfrum0jS7rdsKl2PhEvP9SsUxXZ6zNZ-zoDIssE2Dv02-pSZmCxNrcKrdOwukNnhjMxAA1Kb9uNb2co6HW02dYN-7iqU6Jb6mcE8hFSqN4W9N0-Mk49N0t3fuTK3FPz52AZSjZKcL0MIDowHZH3-SAEVwu2vzcETbKY1TnoP4y34a9TWN7zqFgjkqFUboAFvQJSzmPGxQ4Rkv1dSMizzTgu-QN84J5v7FoB4Yeoc_UR2gHcpYYhG3dluz1gNW9XHe8rgllPiw4s9nsP8QzpjAlr2dDIicvmF5aFRgi_-L0lP2rCeJQBW-VRjA_o51BH2xa_fmM9ESopcUOrt5ziLILdC51GQLYNkcq7F4v1zVyOqKR6N5fEqc07a8QJkpNCurikUZy5yvZdhep3IExbRZvCkJ7TCSZHcJZTClIJU3kgcuopANd0dGHkcl5Yg1frDnPZM_AS_7q4GkW1Z-cv9ePBvI6L2o-Kg7rp7GT4IpXDkqoFWXE=w800-h453-no)

We saw the vintage motorcycle museum, which is in progress.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XflTizgb4EnnFlUlADM3yThvaD7aUgqFapQ3ujUX4V8zJkl_6TPr-GXg05Vee6Vt2fU7TR5hzVBDRx6DSNonGuI9MMVV6s8OgbOS3ECP4Wlrnwpt_coDjdNG4uX3FZ1_6rvDKc--FpDyTg2bnGID6owXwrZJVq2mzcOvKz3HHVOo8pmSD_Y5Aifl6gHR-_Cgy3NCXQuuupXrH5gOV82NotXknOk8l6CgJQN7PuM7GFiSNyoa7NjiZESQWqrpKUGXzjMdBb4cIW8N0Bv14NA6UgoUUwbc6mSFTuDK9B_RjIZHxokkeXN0C2fNa0Fxyo3AcjvtqRCwESUCa8YO6DTG-d5cnWrRTXPaeBv_VR8q2f0jg65tW5HrhK_VBHOiU789zLsXQBnkfQO6QN5P0Ai6AR-zaN36j9h-awsdHu7r0ocfWNu0kCsTQXWT1Dgorp5zCfyLi5npPWc3u7JObMNtnrB63ufF-98Ci131tdzZRk-a2BHrLaOp3DGCo1mHbn1HXCT2trpJN6T_LzZG1GJ0vqMF__5yNADwGXJpA-P8uDxISj6HfrHBNEy6fBI7C9Y0I-rJ2ti7T9cswGBiljQV-VXoe5W6ZTQSIdSUUl8=w800-h453-no)

Bands were playing as well:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/IgH4v2ZmZi49T5JRzBAD_l54f15E6C1OZoy63-8nvTisJFoRGc1DvIrRPWX5HzYHDEtB-enXfLnF55JvM9c6X2z19RtH0_ZmpAEudLMesHgc-sF6ksZ3g1iqQPkpusGSWRyXq_LyvNQ0UD-Q7yTCBgMCv_vZ4inIeOmEAjad1LnEJB5Zz3JqcTMSvlHZkfPsbs9PRXcBNM5hOR28RtBqY-OeHn1Knp6ngqPS8XnFxKnowELe8TxlwKNYWI1DDmyiypZQUYyzxcZHzZNDfeS_xtWiiw-XTwPRA3-2iKXhaCTAnRZ8Gv2vcLS7NMbnaiIosSzJQk69WADroImGBCO6W1gEkm5oC8oRCSjNqz-1IMbEmNxu_yegwXC7ssgTJGYaxHbbYPAAZypNuFUm2LRTj6S306tq33CzLpuF0OOocwhJNsK2a8hZJdwO_RD9ZS_aebKY6JhH0i2A1pYrFrRJ53xLhtK3M8bLPfLa6CpSQexpnc2wv5OPK-dxYp6b_gRFNOR3tH1Bc5zWioBRKbJABhX2wIyPU9JPR3KuoCAKtfrSagLuTpUDXR3o0PVQWaGPmiFSTenNAFbas74WfZTXq7lIrzk0f7BxuwrS3cE=w800-h453-no)

Me with my mother and stepfather. He's been really good to her.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nHL66inewMSsBTd5YnX0egfJ2B79Q16xGvNJhgK91FpcHGDii0vvFi3IURD4o3V26lYlw5d2bDmNoIaiQ02jLS3mkHNJLsKDm1e4C6ES6xcdAXTEBFZvpK62eUX1GHAsBMjzLjqbU-IUlE2LRk2wxp7SEyGVlOCZLnTfSeWCp3s9f0vosZz8shSoZpNdw9cFQIzPmT0T15CDWopPKERgFhE3PLvCjOt3jquxR4u6A8f2PNI5JI8S3Lzv4qmuu7kh2IhHpVXN7rOry0MvCy0cbcd-B83v8tFqa4MWKuHH3oyg-otcx1RPdOml1-TDax3rb5mq5UtfMGsuFr_ra7Z0HElRdJ73diRogJFXNlB1-3FgICs9JmBuC0WgfZdunH7P0Z4cy1X9w8oVIgpQ3wbOqc1FOHpMLzXKnUCiujRkc2F5iSaRvzeAWJIcXcm1N4uC3aR6MXeDyKp_joWZ3rz3vFnVtXFQpt7QspixgMLV5NgJ_2yB3T8tjy9y-7N_k_QnKRpuh_A1RhpIidmsSAtFeKpN4mOFp9kizQN9dmtAhrMRG0_0VUcBxk1ddw4NryLyvMEpbe2W5hbygJvEBeK146AE4butemEYhl9amAU=w600-h800-no)

Me with one of my sisters:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9WVr5J3uDKtc6T_49puvuaFKwHnEJtgby0ofXrY_QAtG2n-DrkGJGJBDVneKuLIpqIO0R760kcsXFgEfuGsC55lJcZsmzvfw2sM8FcanlKWyBY7--6wmXdlFKeskLSqNNZmlrjobVmjbqtutyTgFJVk3cLNGKQkSJvssfuf9HJH022gmQoUmBHvGHYXkplqyfsupqvOy3mnZrGtTyVAkwCs5oae-12TFKYMptuhtZnN26GrAyD50S0d6HhDHAg1EozNS8EZXfSFBo1xhl_aByRX80ST8ow4RRsjsiALMAt_-qu0N-21KKfk9SKQJV_E3hSBcENFeJspxhJSP01_vTOhTsLWAVeP71OG04SyRDjI3MZXnbs70W6vC7TIsm_aVyomjR13FQJqIXDqmJmzCs-vNxYvN7-tXbLe9UU6imbl3-THQMPnaFLB3F7VZRnP6NTLfDYfjD4VR5jJYZNZDKdOtGNnRh11kHCycQg-iOS5Is2gBzfA-yQx-fUTeGsEkGkaanQwVszoFxAkvx67ySIQgnd8IU4Eb_eBLavkpvzB4-JhChmzDa-qjlwdlUTrsNwRIrloJHq6MF2jDv_iRsGe87lnsYXmeCvnaCRs=w600-h800-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 21 August 2018, 05:00 PM
There was a car show. No Mercedes, of course!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/de-f-3DFRv7PdhNUeMm4qOL3eJOtYjQ1GHonLEXF7wOXRl33SxXqdjg4dnuBF3Ro4J9y9BqvNKm1YooHT4JoVCpakLseiPzPGWS0pRxa1gf94JRpxpbDAdqWZJR-x-aMiAc7innU-Pd0nhFevmlXp_Ndk4RHOSnnFGi1SHaDEMPKtH6uS3l2ebgjuy7nit9PPqBVG2ogzP60w44u3YdNtkW5Y93We8mh3vgLxKe9HYpLC4iJ2kHXmhp5Mrd-nTBSfJ70EaCpXZO8VxoOxYnKTMKIWX7wtDVE-CqX_q4wtU7g5C3iHskjMVlDE3XCwa8EpiEUw5Z1yOKFG6OWypfA-63zleqkkgYke3IwLhYZ4jVePUK-_7FSBGJVhhjleKeD7XHS9otQujNCTDl36fzSnisOn50kilQn1YVDjVwrff52JfHzJjRGINAzzbyXwZvHIdL5PTYb2M3a1yUjz70uypQbTrV3IkK1xwjhh97QTHCjrBKIqv9ON-FdVwgNby5X64rAbI9UqcyjdvFt6tqaXUNF8nHyYQpI4BXhZnf8AUbz9HsM-o_kEUxhDJdyqrFgT-OGznds-bmi9J-n-8VTpS_7whWmIgvd3LuVJXA=w800-h453-no)

There was an excellent band called Shuffle playing. They were the best of them all. All of them were top-notch and the guitar player appeared to be the best one can be at it.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fxLiyakV5Uw8oOnYYQcp7N81lRbBKObQBbaRXOlERTuwsMnglAn9UUGYoCMp_E7VHKixPy8goh6OU-ZtGpC0YGxBre7CWggqYoPHWm69xMwNjBaKQCm0llIUZPl4VTBCMZJFIhmneCHy9JAV8Wni8UFD4wVOW7eFIooY5p-uI362FK1yNmec11tWRJ5fxXEw8OBFjqlmIxRpP_d28gjUpwRGvljJkjAy4iPPvICDCw37CjAta_QXdMRzZbNsRHzpQ8dScuaqQAvmw0_KG0MAhNbaL7kdKitXgWeOuXG4OjnIxzGvy8dVomrIxBVjvVhOGf7013DFWbtUzq8vzmS3tXws8e2KS58ktqnheml20zHJcWfCRzaZHgTly25RFumOJyZQMpIdQjiip-ju7LwtnFJSPxH279c4-661STg9tBonuAKFks256f_JHmhezdQGkpAo-2viWw-_ZPk_Ux5KyWlVJgxUpHDrFc6vlflY30ANEXBvDwNCtojXlBq1lwYoWHyTlP6adTLMp1IjYQtddI7cbDoT6wFJLYgvIpdIZTlC8DCez20vWItQwVqt_-R9oSJ5MlwIcakvZ8RiubNTV4O6gfVV6Rv1O8R-6bA=w800-h453-no)

Glamour shot of my car on the farm:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tXX_vRH2DeNZS6dRdQkvCkYnzoBs_Dc9c3cQKeIxeKDQIPwhxP6r0oATQpaEqVzD8CV-c5rJgzAOiduOCY5y5I1ItAhJ5BIF5EExZmg1A7nUMLeAi7orfYg_pslMKCQv72skhG4mmnUfpztMSBEQ7Ubjf37mho0ONG7eXpbS3CLlYNhZvyD5lpOjvEGGbymqYuKhtKMvsSwxGXgUP6q_KoonkRHrGY3QQzO7guXd6ikcs8Vo48n8at1XeU-s8Rjy7gF1_pKe1vcLohIbujDwYV80Mh5KqnXxTUbj7tjY0z4_GcfgxgXTrbUvt1huwj-v8NJS7zlU7vsiYF2SvfJFIxv091ND1I3jHU3z_EDmeZXekeNSZV4ovqAYexVLg8m9BTZ03gXF5iEVU0LjN8qp2SSq4h-Xqa1_H64ppYcuwQWIrCgkGK7pL0quM5rLjBK2Ae5-afPD7r4EgK_ioWKsSPeMaEbc2wVLiaZglasSCcIoomQgokRwh3pgM1G46bvbXlK0Vp_n5rB2OfJCTY8ArvAEsEcp2z_Vrg13PL_3A_7ack3bVXxVORPrv0kWFBkpeIgKGVQYM5O0aiEOuC_vTEGOQr4fosOf8d6vqeQ=w800-h453-no)

My roommate bought a radio/phonograph cabinet at an antique store. It barely wouldn't fit in the trunk, so it went in the back seat.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xAFPLzDjPPVVt13cbPsOpF0GIN6TMWS2b2I5FUCzW4XKhEzO79EzR8_-iZTWjT277mcKq6qc9kp98IMUw6_qUmeA9NeLRj7LnlfdlPJELwSnCYNj2f7JkkLoT4G5Dd0U2ogIVRLUkCGbn97_nN8sLaahiX65Y6nURtBw5vZPvz7OJTKop2owwZ43CR9aaEivIuvr9oiOlSSushLqGUNDZtNSPg-xeXCpe8tckj9JrGPwdS4LOny2TNnmx0npajaaWHIfD1Ype3ZSTt24LhFvq_AcKirsOfscsuPOGNPYlMUMiGYXow6hsbrcsKC-1QXj-aCcLQeTcW0hBynxP0b2QLbtr173_aAGeWFExwd7QNPQxFuC4QxVPMTLVPuCQ8fo3Wyaoq6WlNTZCvkzfWldU-Op1LBiYvs9LQTSdP9jRecu83VuUUhMgGF4gtkqYfWMrS8S0TqYVYcDU7GRJqkuYcxGnDTNsZON6cftaCWcGFelRsKWa6s_T2lNHFfpVrkBUIbd5TOeM3yEfTHhR-Nntp1hGrZMDiILlBjP6HEuzI8cJMEFSBFk6y98KkDkny8JLS39ARFhPg79O0a_ru7z0ZHrRgqPENpQnDSSbOs=w800-h453-no)

All of the shirts I've been wearing belonged to my grandfather. He died in 1974, so you know they're old.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0bNNZtNt5YyvY6muQUdvmrIkI0IcicV85XaXXPDwzjaF4-dD7UIghAJCTqoXRLm7h5n1l_RYqbiamFjjvDwuRLPIX2qLvIpXzMox-Bcc_5Zg-T1a4FqQCrE-yWOQqS6xDZdQ95GVwB42FMzu6fM5hlp7GR0IDVYZksWtGYqVGtkJuX6aele9GwSmeiBacZHHhcVl3BV0tFCJ03g56DqBY-agB2p-RSGiVTJ7cKzDim3c4qJJk-kUbq4cRzHEjalh0a9n-q4zSE2pL6YYeNxKZgBgyQnUJXJc2mVJ7S2lzKGiNwusQaGVA3zk1sBabAs2kqZtGkX-uDzaVhcBs8xSk0YH_PR669H3S9jl2H6DwwN3PPy3_ovYVNDpEoU-ZHInx6o1-oaUwgjaw4VbWb2DpI-oD_x7t_C09faXUrQcdzywWG0YXA78sejIfqZL9MGI7QSbYjBPMGRubKG7Q0okaHT3tbY7SBS9N7gNm5OsnlFxizfeXnO-gNwpm9v1XIV6LvCXAYih_cflsO4DvaMMzcpVPRYzRWA4gg9sthLNZMwYRjtPmpbcH7LOGLkmMofL-entAPhXjMjqa3hoLBRbg3kXa1_77ajR0D54bYo=w800-h600-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 21 August 2018, 05:24 PM
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ul0ORSeoSMuZY5xxKuQ59IybJW8QJ6HUCxcuO-l3q_1hYZsnDgY6VrFxfwZw9jsK39BMn3FymojzKzzfK8rG0SR6oY4cYiC-7kopGxCfsc3dYlMG0fdsNHxM6gTPdXAkGkVr4CjBDU8KHwTO8_hPLinLQC4z-JkPZ4rYhyv67R10UR5spyQjt1zh_y_TGLQV1aMSK45m1qY3CAA6WTmhqRBGgX3QT9ulru8hwMT6qE-6Sn9D9FtN8-KdKCwyK4ByQkzbgNtzsJEQh_MSJ95NAAf0LGWPYtojekqN0bqZ4Ew1hm1-qgV8B_BnHg0DPhiQcAJKeC0-QgpcIHKBmJObIMj73FQcOkeLfMW0Lu_AzInO5c0r5YZvoaeLAN0Pj3PNAED5q3fGaObtfvoubTxtPJ3CNGSwjMA5PaBlikJ1BI1aD7mgpgyeI585RjTOgyeMW_bxnDGOoIF6UwBooZLkMxsF6idc_bLqjk6XSS1BaWf_HRS5y-fpoqOhKO8fg50nLLz5ss_5njgyn4EiD6wf9Oc3tKMkH3JaRBBTf9Ft3yu5pxiOaqEPh5rPzga0DfaS5HE4eFhCq9-gZrTHqRztkvDhf8xiDi6SnnXidrA=w600-h800-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NneMHQaGPy24G8BNxmEHKOe381x0byBNouEW4vRqAmbjJtePKjDoHF_5Xsd7C_zuAd2lisval6S2qWPL0s4YeYTgIy5xjfYZWmH3owzaysNIS5P7pOxCQ9LKH5cE8w7sAWGwS4_oVavb6p_wWWzoocHmoT-JGX-5YMgw34R-hmVvm-zTso0AmQvc5VjxaYyaOXwIOMBhWDSvxQxc9aHAKfFF0wLEc--4Xp5-Mj6KvLg0Cr1R89C7yrUk2L4_8wiSdFYBcC-_PFfrYI9kAxWYC7KEpZWDUH_HFvF7SWPXNqmLuPWx5B-QbPiOsTvKJ1o1xNh3rPOsRi53-Ak3jPf31I8FVI7O9nbgwu8YU1MF_vkY-8Gfh9VEiAR8Ur4dB9s6Prw8JRxAvp3uJsYcRzuCjx832Vypco6wjSjTxe-jr5Axkf-KynEBSBVzq578dT4aVEk3xvasqYj8UZopgVTp3tuc9BRHfpeGl-1uNYfbyQaDR_ma6YxcZJ1CZGal_Vn5dQvSM_03JZ_oY8xmVWBu8XWxAm51_TK4YrTpC5MW6H0I_0MXbaHpPv08B-k3NHZFYnc5jizlzzjU9sgG_o9lOA8bKZAy1Yj1IzaeUg4=w600-h800-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RJMYhSdwA88YBzXSYJsDL7o04xPg84ECni76vlVvVEMHZXH0PxJrLUFS1qVtn3CH51ySCV4va880B72FI-ApNE6Ypjr6mI6zHV1V8KydN0Hz10X6-YOVwy4P2dXD18isuTcGdpCXs7JKujEIXinfzJ367hHZmGbWpVRr1EkzH_UiSveTxvz0HNHdFZjAQeBxs6vgw3CFG4oB4fiJO4yheKamYQ3ScfmcCPARo-JNzP9Q-skDVGUjtmtM3f0DxgMF4mNlubNEABWLAiKRYIDmlfDoPGw1Dge6Cx7MkTKXjIDdgDAD3FZjRUMopdTCTQlgWh3BD-vUqTE6bH8aFpHToI9fb9Jap6gKDRvA-QSLwpie6yXImvIOoqrAIvCoqlfZPgBWHMWE0sR9vH9GaH3s1rSk29paVQyfOyiQe5kmRFNR9077QrR_ENqgvRiPbHu6b7eGIylEOpxNRi2ZvKuxdCWGDC0e4JrdyNbVk5Qam8oDMK0UFB6jkzw1s7nP6KHwec5GVrq-Yi74gl8GUBDhbTE0vOsjJEDzvnMZ9GxUjHXEMCPMS62bQiNmC1YlYr8yvvp42tzHLNoe6CSBCQMSyVsQrP0xacXfnwIuZ38=w800-h600-no)

Driving off.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/E279lxv04xZ-Jdj5yknJl7AiKnIKYxhm1Z30xeEsipjnJ7qlRzyefwa9ILYSQCeZ7UXl6rl41BSdzPe_R27BZyzI0PxT62cBFliJd-Uj7Llbz_1ysoyJvvWbKDSQunOlxZXIWKM-z2irw2QWEXly3AhMqcVOqLGuukHIPK_YoOGb6uaqh8hVqa8X7KD_Mg-EeDrYIolvtFbcqI5wtK5l3QPzpJ45tW2xUiXEMn8rb97uPS-zBk3BBPVdyyWU3mPiDguVyf2ORjEg8jo2MEYKtwe5lwf4eiaRKi2pdAgHwer6ASs24pweLVXp9aeU1MuUzWaLqFKdF7izJC_NtAZEYgBI88TC18UQ9BifuCHc6RlYQP4G6gTtKgFdwD9GqYayEweLlIg5tYIzPv-V2Fw3dpLfyyuw2tILQTTmR96sQROKx28VXRpVWB9ovgx_tnOxfAbhcHM6jevS-pVy4a2TuumrLem38DbKdywDTTQqNrWGvJFGiO9esovH3Mxz7eLLuxtlR3Yd2QTajfPQjOd9U0d5lEtxg9rUTJMTiTQj4SGRdzQvzR7XNum1LhABqHvgTwkbyFfU6rtvngQ3kz0MroKusFltGVI73siOwUY=w600-h800-no)

We had a fantastic meal in Moab on the way home at 98 Center Restaurant, consisting of excellent vegan nachos, phở, a salad, and kimchi.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7UssdKUO3yZw4rzewHOBe91MxqqHz2bHFPChcgdx_5iMUoZPCf0uBnuKkeo0bSCmxA0IlOc8NXsElIk7M54re-gmFTD49tuCXLc9NyRyDjLW4eKt3bK3laK7TqAdDmn1zXm5iF8SCy3Wr_E-MCsQ0_tLggfC3JGNrvwlWtvze_kBch_bTZlGp7o6DTv2sXv9f1xtM7ljIbvXIo3j4VHpAeLCbXApXeXcfw9H9un5AA_XK_t6yU4ZvQeoUJqTDK8INDB-8ASrWa4aQRp_hrS1dKBRlZGGKwEae1UqE6y86zHQLMgN-1lDoCc2E8kkrFq5Pex5Rgqdkhdic-yJ30eiaeZL0bFpsK6R-ee5Bxe1yOGc5S1OXlHFjOVuVH8lUprsUipqdZLWeqxkDilgnbkg2ZDEP-tiPbW42WREpgmYs-_mhWJNtSURQpxbWeBgj3XGk4tLsbxSA7Bp7ilitOyFaCEvUXhJzxxKovV0omyGnqKzuTuVAtLsgfqrNzcx6AEvPz9dRySFIe5AsdZzwSTcLunWAu5x-3Axz8QEN4WlwnwiaptuS20hhcYt6jt_ivdp4LYFG5bxYXNWRrXfCx1NZf6DV-uCJhkMykwh66w=w800-h453-no)

I was very impressed with my car. Even with the air conditioning running, it got great fuel economy, cruised at high speed (though I was still getting passed by people that insist on driving at least 20 MPH over the speed limit), and I blew past a nice W115 300D by Flagstaff. In the 1,200 mile round trip it didn't use any oil or coolant.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: kjenkins on 21 August 2018, 05:58 PM
    So glad you got your ac working.  All your hard work seems to have paid off.  Also, love the pics from the trip.  Great stuff.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: raueda1 on 23 August 2018, 05:35 PM
What a great story, Scott!  Congratulations on getting it all back together.  Looked like a nail-biter right down to the last second.  It's a real inspiration.  But now, uh....  hate to ask...    what's next?   ;D ;D ;D
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 21 September 2018, 07:37 PM
The air conditioning has been working well, but it's been leaking. I noticed a slight amount of oil at where the receiver drier connects to the pipe right after having the system charged, but thought it was just residual oil from when I lubricated the threads. I figured the air conditioning shop would have caught it if it was a leak.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/i6YIpQfrtGDPmQI6k7n0dkJBXyzpzvfypBovhHQ2REpODpyFYLVoVTuJwn8QT8r5ApDtnMUTFHIC-_-8pHcMhzA3JNLiPXLQvZrN97lL14CuK9680Ir_CMEBR9GWYKsgDN0BD-i7eMx56SbrjlzfzCGCoIbYNW2S2hBTW1C9nMLE9JCx1ZlGZMnsRScQFnoj-__wpCoWTINPwjtZX6FKjIBDjsGmwD09w7NO0KT1rx0tI2kiK-Nio1nU_xIvY-ZaLnaHwHWqhdJcAhj__CTcZT8ccjC01MtdbHSaIAV2Tb7qfp2kUDGEUNKFULDDPn908pRc4sL5MaFUSYwz73vx6eIGFA3gN9nup-5rUTPUS4IkSaqZE9ZWfB7nAfex7p9Q3yM1MA3_gMgS0T5FyNy6G4KW9tU6o12JezOfXq9b_zLHnhZKvL_8ykxaSM4X7ufxF4l8OnjO5ciHo2E2GhVbNB-4HJatc1u9Y_ppQPZVoy2guihJQAokF54VU-i9ybd537MPXcIG7SmWiC5eGdru6bGVir4xSGCspZ8RVMpJc3AYwosr3AdG6uhHzByEWHXHbX1_hofKIRju70W2xIbgvxFwm939T3rSVaUTOfnespayE0nue9WI9q6mSVFMAvI=w800-h453-no)

After I got back from Utah, I noticed oil was dripping off the bottom of the car. I thought it was an oil cooler leak, but I traced it up to the fitting on the drier and could hear the refrigerant leaking out.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9waVUEthfWmw1GE7uhno659iHsL0FXIyD6NWNc-meo6Dxq_iZnxDejJjAvHMUJlJ0kltzrmRdsOm3nCpCJNobVZl8C_0aDPtm3RSFq3QkhRtpnEy8e_p0jWYHIbGrwnxPXmSd9piHvYSB4foD3Nexn-wj6xbln2P1ddMMxD75f8AQnkdsWuKNXJu0uqxibAisstlRkXBsGJI9F0iDrwF7GvLohFWtJwbhLI-O6qoNfYyhj0QBBAyErZBqMzVYsjzApxIK_D_4lPaWNJM3zGpde-sdAiV0PHDj7YPXax6rqrTRP38Wsk-V7V7GyAiS8hmdpXmDJqpn0JMyGqT4iWDOcx9XWUiLT-of4TOrG4KMogv3hL_UDj6gaqDgSqCWIEYfBYAbzkA-Psw3fC0_4LPJOPLoQj2wtWdqZgBVUoanHFxBpvKO1pkwNHIVyvUywh0NTr9t9CxCNAnlMVelLukh7P9nNU74BSP4jaT6JDe7BbTeq47Dl8mTlL9tfbodRiOFkDLfxECdayXQ5IsA_VLPvROtbDJFgWfji9o61_vWA9go2sepKtuAJbs3RQWkx8ELYkSsVdZmeLNpHyeqH6cLzNdK7yMjOOFdgFkRZ5mqysUzYZrihVWmnpn2G_tzvQ=w800-h453-no)

In order to tighten up the fitting, I had to loosen up the hose above it just enough to rotate it out of the way without the refrigerant leaking out. Then I unbolted the condenser and used a crow's foot wrench to tighten and loosen the fitting several times before cranking it down very tight.

It's still leaking, but not as much and at least the air conditioning is still somewhat cool. I'm done with flare fittings. All they seem to do is leak. I'm going to have to redo this using O-ring fitting parts.

The receiver drier is in a really bad location when it comes to accessing the fittings. I was trying to make the parallel flow condenser upgrade look stock, but it's been too complicated. I'm probably going to use a drier from a newer W126 chassis Mercedes (which uses O-ring fittings) and mount it behind and under the headlight in the crook by the left horn.

With the drier out of the way, it will allow me to install a 2" wider condenser for even better air conditioning performance. I'll have to make new mounting brackets.

I'm really hoping that the expansion valve fittings (which are flare fittings) aren't leaking so I can get away with cutting the ends off the hoses under the hood and crimping new fittings on them without having to touch the expansion valve end in the cabin.

I was hoping someone made an evaporator core for the W107/W116 chassis that uses an o-ring style expansion valve, but it seems they don't exist. I could, in theory, have someone weld O-ring fitting ends on my evaporator, but it would require removing the climate control box again. I'm hoping a lot that the expansion valve connections aren't leaking so I don't have to mess with anything in the cabin.

In other news, I took the car to its annual emissions test and the employees there were flabbergasted to see a diesel-powered car and didn't know what to do with it, so they finally gave me a "Director's Certificate" which didn't cost any money. My roommate's 1991 W126 350SDL has been having a lot of issues, so he's been driving my car to work while I tinker around with his. I've also been selling quite a few parts from the 280SE parts car, including the engine and transmission.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 07 November 2018, 02:39 PM
The air conditioning was leaking at the flare fittings at the drier. Despite loosening and tightening them several times, they still continued to leak out refrigerant and oil. The flare surface of the cheap drier must not have been machined well (similar to the cheap expansion valve I had on the first time).

I had planned on redesigning the air conditioning system to use an O-ring style drier from a W126 and mounting it in a location where it would be easier to tighten. But, it just became too convoluted and it seems the way I did it is the best way.

So, I tried to fix the leak one last time. I unbolted the condenser so the drier could be pulled closer to me to get a crow's foot wrench on it, and then I used a breaker bar to loosen, tighten, and then really crank down on the fittings until they were as tight as I could get them without stripping out the threads.

As you can see, I had to loosen the upper hose fitting enough that I could pivot it out of the way enough to access the lower fitting without leaking refrigerant, but it worked. The air conditioning is still blowing very cold and is no longer leaking.

It is SO great to have working air conditioning, and it works very well; as good as--if not better than--modern cars. It feels so pleasant being able to drive around without feeling like I'm getting heat stroke. When I turn it on, it blows cold air almost instantly and cools down the cabin in short time. That's no small achievement for the Arizona desert. If it can cool well here, it can cool anywhere. I am very content that I decided to go all out on the upgrade, with almost no expense spared, and also used R-12 refrigerant.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hlKx7ldWewduuOdlXXrUaREAifWC-ub6YMye5Z-Q33fR3JPp9eO490S2ZOwwPx9Km34lX8hhxelLUfCVyBOuHMdtvxmm2ij_u8fxoUBBLeOcbU-v_28WBJlKJXnGfu_T49sxweBefpZOGJi8oFesjqnOnOuRCwBZWuHurIyZTuY1ITz3Zld0KtMd7OkwBjboN6YfEa3i7ur2ccOLUE83iG_QnzPEQtg7BQLfvG1LAJ1eR-4ECLWAW0vcFyKCMGKqviTx9G_HZL-YbocE4pjoT7AEbv1O63kyb5EH4q6jfJIygRXouI0CIjQciFkJjVWNs3RvOi6fLDJ_noarZQx2gw9fDRCeoTggQKBoAOZ7pA-MQZjwpfYOT5ZfNQC4Nter1VMC9bUisL1GBy8qAQttTm1H2RrErkJs9gNukiA1USgvggq4CZAnlqU8x4Rv23Sh_snjfQ9oJ3NA1XRm4JG3DBT24bLxrVGBUu57AhMoR7f1kg72Mp88MqbG0PSRCdib6TzJwPAYGIVcApxWzUyx_b93QnveZQovZ0YJb9sYp4kMmJvouU5hF1jqmt4pb4NJ8dDHzJe6u1rlt_Mq6n3Jd2Ax-4Sgm5TAU2kfZUAolkcezaj-nFVQnAU0QDhD69FHTlxan5YwrsFPG1ayHB5iGuM6bAwRccIOoFvK99x9Z0w=w800-h453-no)

A while back I bought a pair of new hood latch deflectors (116 887 00 45), but the left one broke as soon as I closed the hood. I just now ordered another. It's hard to believe these little pieces of plastic are $57 each.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/FIaIl8VZiX67x5mum8cdgaG1C5FuonAirF1ILkfnSfxaBTBXRzzCm4cRFnNqrG1Rozay-1rWQ_ITCOAg6Za7wFimfq1YP5rmIoOHex1CfBMcin15Uhd9Vpd6ovHOs8SfQtzQf5v-tP1dynNABjnVyTpc-HzZvEhsJJNqAHE3NEsOqRNLR3D-ZSQ48jsMaqOp89Xsqm_iRj6vztgzTxURG_eoyxZWWZyOLEr-dqP3SLp0KbNHuzIXNLg3GI-_EcucQNPFmqAzY_TuQ2khpVcL7FstBoQZUHibbYz5WLRnB25vWHjiSJV2pK3v7aaKo4U4RMOKaGTYFZlVyIRXBjJ8IMVza0UYsnTi7mCj0D9djK6LYDQMf7cDaJMamfZfcGrY3lbHVdbP92nFdjlUx98zjexlEBT0QfVmXfPEc-_ZXcB0xSlpy4e57yKkvqPYtXL-o1oLXpDo-P0qlUecDMPqGA0ooTCzfFFcwaXT__hsudKPTAFCH6647sULo_ZljISNTCc-HukyYKy83cYJeX95LJ95tpXAd7cSaSj1DT-loNg29IRCk82ZCYaw2G6dyyjNKrJlHeJZuICshlzIozgafJxOtXdAWqnI9RzucYC2cpJTUGlaxhQNQBbmmZtnJWm7datcvN3nKY3M6u7IDLrUjB8uWNDHUzGGfvKogB0RWQs=w800-h453-no)

Here it is in place. I adjusted and bent the hood latch so it wouldn't land on it wrong and break the part again, and the hood now shuts smoothly.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6NaougHUTX4xWEDuqErhihEkArIqVYiRtl6oTWDj0_hWumLsw-KLeIw29GoDm0SJcFiRYgEByXWMgHKy1eMvwFSgMXMmcroGygFcmepoMkI6fc3Ki-3z4ZUDsMJhcOZlscCXHvEYkpCP6RaYQ7AVeNh4W0CRCwLGA5EhCq5_FQNt9O3UxHvJD_wlWWNyVEM0sjL1BdoR8wWcPn0_uXRw5aq2SS1jI4scijU-LiCAgB_0I3AbN4me0r4GXdLapoh6VntyjE8BgiTlYI0BY7Yz345PO7A3awL6rt-Pi_ypf7YWjaRrltzLZIt8AVqmJx3cGyCQ382ac_u2iwdtUjrRUl-Ai_sjSH7ObCbxiTFyCurjmphwknxkswSg-NaJ8CRXTLQ5j06hXT47S9GCBVJL0ZPZ3kPJIz7qFwaavuQKzJFlU4aZmEcwRUtloCxrhlslT3rxwCy28GGXLqbsLQBFvc_ht33xhx7Y1GYMYcJa5AObVV_XqxqJb2_ikUYqSvqiKcWrbAASZzpZTWzLMCrCegWkF7Gwm0XjotkhQNetF-x2RCsZW1fbbtDMG4wHVCdtIOTZZOnSJHuxaMhVkO7AdXM7c6DclsbL3CeFZsxVS2GtnBJzwxjTTREYYK0Zfmoo7KPiCUmxbcqJS6P4Q0mxhmX96txZB8vq6jvLiQaBKp0=w800-h453-no)

The windshield has been heavily sand pitted, chipped, and cracked for a while. I had a new spare, but it broke in storage. I stopped by the wrecking yard to inspect a 1973 W116 450SEL. It had a new windshield and seal installed recently, so I removed them both without damaging either.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZaD6ACpc94z02ajv-rHWK5auVKOBPBtpG6iyNr0nRtRtF3JKz4CN1ETIuqUDh_a2T59ZEp-_Y-NkO9l4XYzrpjs5RQeHzAV2iTUC_-cOwAScmVTc0OZYAF8gpXe8g57aMyEjfE7CHzfL_w2HVZUnMqaBx4V7hxpXB7HB4G-iPgkOnHbhQ9SP52fTNY_g3KnBmhgGVNsKa8fpNomObS8PMtfpk8ttSlnF0ZrVsYKOS62mYykBWqLpth0EE5ryZj5kGKdYqQL0lobaagK1q63DrUSqPCgKmu1brA--6hd4pYU1fzUyX8jFR0KMKj6WFX7XdXPBuOYIyAXUBY-kCTb1Qq9G0YEZb4aKIeqael6HUNeGetJ4s-APBqHlIbGZuOim-qyaz257oSVOvR1ufjE9lTR0CcGJxDWP2GnZzRjlcdkoX-V6Ifff20flrfdOSGOfM9j6CfuhVHOHMyrTgDWB79_di8EdswGV7fp5d3pNBPndZiLzXNeuDfYHDOkuor4_7BkPznwqhPr8PfV-OaSn6KyGBJvSrWz2vkT3I23-LX7OvlUdaN1EhuRu-FEHKqPS28ld3bLvD_NCdwrjlwruDsCv0Miy4f50g0OqGUupW9GKyCXTk9g-aQvIaCmO4Wga0hqCEr5Teeqdo8HZObxVT4SMwjIGboVmY88KiCwHKbM=w800-h453-no)

I just used plastic prybars to push the lip of the seal from the metal flange and then pushed out the glass and seal as a unit.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/R2v5GcbLFTu7RY5pP42ibeT-NliIRpbuUEX31R_47xc_maUE4U2lLAL30XHW3VKm8EMX6PE2umt6-SS7NNnPhQc9Kt15gOLqQd05iaQ8R0a631oJEWvLAGununmBCzBkdWBZM17K9slE0M6_L5UH_u9v8k4jQ8VsDQIFJVinISoZYYPU1Mi9pFvlBtw7K6mBl68vv4m00m9Oe5p0TarmbCWPfD2OCOxB-zxHt30bVBbfQKBUzrUuOrQiSoaPY_RRlO7R2DMg9V_mk1edbxEUSBae1zxugGwTwqj9POmddvt18AbC9ei8BejFmodvn6tDzJNWMa2aRnMr5roWE8j9XMpVYSQs5Yiye736h5r9NWXpjEZZKm1mC9clkvP7Kx3Q6uMUuF807nil-oEzipmlVAsVrLArumD9dh9hjmX1jw3Pel31kpEVidVQSlo4o3kDViOWStmDRzS09m_lyVrTrBUqcwww_3oQml6VQ59R7yYQVG0FCN4JtcHtWLqyGWpSRJMqMpBlZTmK16nASW62dDz1AHFhCVk-_diPfCP5ifI_xcYuCuL_pFfOgVorw0USRzezDPwY-0YwNGx7vjV8_L7uso-MRWvksMsTyKLqNNwbKSk5t1_st_IIfYdOcgUYB8oK1rmpylWx8P_gNzfEkriTX_N9G7_QbbL4hkOhxDk=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 07 November 2018, 03:15 PM
It's time for new tires! They are dry rotted and starting to go out of round, so my car wobbles when I drive. I'm happy with how long they've lasted, though, considering they're between seven and ten years old (yes, they are all different manufacture years) and I've put about 50,000 miles on them.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/AV6bDAE_Lc0KBmQA-0DZGd5-tmpa7J8FfCBHu1dhGbVOGqTvfl77Qm8Z6lDGTVk1y9iRVWjVFb-OdWGxKuPBTGFJOlf9QcLEtU69-S47TGJ80ouuFmYI5OAKHs5pIlU0eCpBBskydpQ5f_eDmeKxbvUSsUligqWNMyEaS9AOizaeknBi3Sgq76Enir_C-LCTl4u8fKPN8RKWgw8CjLTBsGLMa4BjIwvJjV2Rn613Jw0FyOZHYNM33GxuxCr82OpKq1e2A1Hr-njevXRTmAFfFv4DgKFjuR8RlSLd7vH55WTMwOK9RSfPzwGJwNi5qYI2Q0w3ao-V9JeCBj7-id8lc3gqlsgfomJWX2BlOO0g9CAOmb7uoNIDXGIRbphZI98biKCVivU4isNC4jjLYClcjQbmfz06frnW1o4pyw0cK5OJsIs0GNaAUBa94mPLp6ZSJo3v-SJPmDerpPTdBC7_Lgnyk26_i6CExq58K-IamxplUQOhU0cxBoRpTDZDRIPIpeMglmVw2Ms0BySpjb0X9J0BE-Crn9xTsXiwRvQ9BHY1OLuQXDVkGrFFG-bmFol2RGpVF_-m84hSwzKUFNJuNK4uj_QYUkOW9iCOntZ5sudbzZlDsv5tiIlr3ffm9k1WLVVUc2kuqQW3rLVWf52cGNhOkFGQgx8EvrY8pou44lc=w800-h453-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Y2MaFccggfEM5T8AGtEeTePUFV4_r_zHS0e56ZPsrFJosehBVtJmhWAYCNFyBgEx-JFYlbO8obFygK0jVgPxVHyZvl5pPXNFUVo_smlMNSnAUAIKIJpbJmeiS4rj_CKx4oMVr9uoDsADf6vfgrDoqe2UX8XMtp5PNek-4LfDbDWZSCBkE4BAvsPRZHw2JJxUlFhZvHpEMsWoAANVmQuIUFdP9f7ClVWK7a_8MJbDg_0modryg7-z-_kGOh8gosyL0XxTVG62uggwU-ZW8xIvv0PfkKVkoxWgnjR6SBi95bnPYSmXfR5qqUoxKPel9F4r_nUNmIbt4Md-kN1GHWNVhQOjGgbtXaZAQUqV4fAY0Rcjj1rZUBZQ3yV-hCENGS7AiiORR_jLRLIuGcjvpFyj5XNI65N_nOl__6yrBTivM-bVsSCuFfhrv1I-Guajv-KBY04dLLSvGyuVf6NWKUP-ae7Q_B_TL43v-ZiEy8APqDFRYZcLaRzvjg9sQHrmEM9rIvnG6bL3mHybNHRDfATJvtZYbK1OckfP041G2jICFrDG4qs_V6GYMJy-xJ6pNHtcKMRvDgExg_lNLl0_BTHb_IRO5ZdUkYtzcek6DMdDA0kt3sjbsK6qg96ve8pq0vi2vnJ8aOZnGHshF5JDWnIbbYAKfZSnl7-tE7SQSec_rso=w800-h453-no)

The tires currently on my car are Hankook Mileage Plus II shaved whitewalls; they started out as thin whitewalls and then some of the black rubber on the sidewall was ground off to expose more of the whitewall underneath. Unfortunately, no one is selling them anymore, so I'd have to either buy some tires and shave them myself, or hire someone to shave them. There are Portawalls, which mount between the rim and tire bead and make a tire look like a whitewall, but I hear they have so many problems (difficult to install and seat, slide around, come off, flap around, get snow and water stuck in them, cut into the tire, etc.) that they don't seem suited for daily driving.

But, I want REAL whitewall tires. I was hoping to be in a better financial situation by now, because real whitewall tires are insanely expensive ($200-$300+ per tire), so they are out of my price range. It's so strange that no one sells an affordable wide whitewall tire, especially since all raised white letter and thin whitewall tires have wide whitewalls already under the black rubber.

Fitts07 has a W123 with wide whitewalls that he said he got from Calli Tire for $118 each. They use regular tires and then vulcanize whitewalls onto them to make them like a true whitewall tire. I decided I would spend the money and go with them, but when I contacted Calli Tire, they said they raised the prices because the tires they normally use are discontinued and the ones they use now are more expensive and in short supply, so getting a stock size tire with a 2.5" whitewall would cost $184 each after shipping. Once again, too expensive for me. :(
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/89dFcz3FQwuzFEZujbrUdsJdjzAsdqRMcxN0-7h7_Gzu962kfpzTo1PZ_EhMgB_rsCnOEEij6dSP8y0YZ96gF9FmYrPUggi7LTDpFPGzHKYL9sE2dTQliIoK71YnBwMsEU2TlWrayUhtZWNmEr2wk8vC4uzSP5fw8LbHWdP9sa7QRTSDu_Ewv9zK7_AZ4oqVZUbZQcG26FiKCLfnKzcKA-APiaikqE_3UcGPRT9FTGxPEvgbeUerliiIpTNU4wTJ0KamVzPoEl-i4iODXUhnH_J3T4uZzOauwYctZbWArWgX38h56U-DqGLqQP7ArH19IE7fvclTjj73_lIzQ5UkXV8XbphvoCU3VKOc4JSMLfmc94G65pcjNbiofwWWiT5ToTQF4fhjFDkeJVtD-K16q6LvUFJrD2N7LFHVCWPZINlu61UCSmzexQZ8hz_eSeOs43DXRl11h9Bqp-ASBr9mIrZlDExe1TLleogNvCcdqqQZZt1DFxPDl64vQDOHcT-BlvhfSgBlPH-4aUE9e7HHDbjov8pGXdH9OyabBqoUg2_VnshXaa7IcgLpsOrAoiz3SpXJi71-rlIwXp0aVUTW9IMsZudP4u5ugfkru7He8lPZFSlrB-Av7HX-Rtf8ivPNTg3UlbDcaTcp_8WZn6Gut-fEdfr-F79yeePWzUqhJzE=w800-h600-no)

So, with cheaper tires it is. I decided on a set of five 195/75R14 Uniroyal Tiger Paw tires with a diminutive whitewall. But, they are listed as a top quality tire and are made in USA. They were $280 after tax and shipping. My roommate bought them for me as an early Christmas present, so that is great!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9Q4JMWCTLgrGplOsgZP0VFv5jXXgLg96i0Kv_eboNIwfPw53OeWTfpa00jW5hyLemzGJaztA9OIQrezCzvbgwmuJqdd-2KK6HGES1BjA9QnSoHwYDvZqD5PXYm7I2q-FHW3rPPjDSO2Xu28z2YGEGgePJWeyDgaGxh-uztX2Uf6ZxvHmHY2VooHzoHC3buNAqhreinW696GxgQBG_Op3eelbm_HD464A7eHtj2TP1ecAgJ_OHD1cM8mSHJ5EesfRM-8NEIvDgnCuCCSKal2OTFOVTNZiLrUf2d0B0PdNWucUjqCigx0BlPHK6F_ASsmFptmUdNJ4qiMS50cZJWRPKKUwwS1S4nlvXKD9ZKPQEB8zY7p3j-vbjnvm5DF75mFf-wgzQ_B8UxTH1WTfyIdtqmtxzOJW6IafwX1XoXvgNrnxF8W_INdgi0V89Oi_ykHVKu8V_9Ql0GwD8AX7P401RgoqNWFCFwBb9quins9E-QexmOi9rLgOGTEFoc4OepHwuPaShJDYB5dArYxv8sb3xS3PrPefNXm4vF_wW_KTjIeCeFkbKaSoiskJa26FwlaauHn7bIJ7T5o4gRUF7CRW_-7USB094zPg4Hf6wZVPL90Y5UzNl4tQhGqNmpdsw7TPwiWLkYPFbReTS4dnsGqRgPiVhTtzlppSExJbkknXBIFj=s800-no)

I'm going to try to grind off some of the black rubber on the sidewall so it looks like this one:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ooFiM4sDZO-HOq3ht-hRFquMb9RgervBPKznmX9IyU1UsZbU50oE97Nw3sl7P3eRHOfhFNGbD7uLb-tkx82sYvYPLZDe--tiY-vJg4MDXydB1B9NLMbPtbbpMC0Id0cNDz7-wqwcaBsLcOST2FRdVZ-ZiJFFzlp-i_BEhxMoRvK7DW1Q0-fpTNWLfpB9sncLc5F-se90lRPd_2jj6PQSfhrBQDL1J7PR_PiF5Q_dVysb2NPuFSVz_duKpKlooZnjCjRAYQulmt72fry5GC8iWCqnKtV6sjzK1nQbBD6-RlcC-HpVtSzv1AK8qOzoonEIFJIdeoQyApN0qp0zD530F33OGYPK8-UxPaYSLUrWIllkPt8bVDtL4TNGqNsgl_2fRkpAXbLsfQk21tfYrFkJkohceVUP0epKjNkhubDChlS6wQ6ihX1PJZQCicm26bL66sgqwiHRgdkwcO3K8gWYv7U2M8pkXW7K6PpL85tbWpZ8ZbvkckI_ntKb3ImfjajTQkaurrgt5u-ORKoTMyia3GfvEYUOgS5Klp1JyxtXV0FNTTARkKzXCbvQ-6xbC1PSJfq2YYcpFjBXWPKCcE4kYt7WP-ZmHfgXWucbt1XrTHQVZhen-36mlf_VpXMthz8vTUpWUM5KmHFWo8GxzPC-AGA2aoaffwysyubi5FN4HHHE=w450-h600-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: rumb on 08 November 2018, 12:58 PM
A while back I bought a pair of new hood latch deflectors (116 887 00 45), but the left one broke as soon as I closed the hood. I just now ordered another. It's hard to believe these little pieces of plastic are $57 each.


Where did you get them?  I see them as NLA and cant find them anywhere.

Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 08 November 2018, 04:44 PM
A while back I bought a pair of new hood latch deflectors (116 887 00 45), but the left one broke as soon as I closed the hood. I just now ordered another. It's hard to believe these little pieces of plastic are $57 each.


Where did you get them?  I see them as NLA and cant find them anywhere.

I got them from The Classic Center. Also, I don't know if you are still looking for them, but I found a set of original silver wiper blade holders in the wrecking yard. I sent you a private message about them, but not sure if you received it.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: floyd111 on 10 November 2018, 02:42 PM
Those little white plastic clips? That discussion has been going for quite a few years. Bloody unubtanium at any price, last timezz I checked. I think I found a small handful of them along the way, almost accidental, and well-overpriced. That is one part that could do with a 3D copy.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 10 November 2018, 09:10 PM
Those little white plastic clips? That discussion has been going for quite a few years. Bloody unubtanium at any price, last timezz I checked. I think I found a small handful of them along the way, almost accidental, and well-overpriced. That is one part that could do with a 3D copy.

Every time I've needed to buy them, The Classic Center has always had them. Of course, they are ridiculously expensive. It seems like the type of thing that could be made with a do-it-yourself injection molding kit.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: rumb on 12 November 2018, 09:12 AM
I just ordered the last 2 new ones on the planet per Tom hanson.
I plan on looking into 3d printing them though.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 12 November 2018, 08:31 PM
I just ordered the last 2 new ones on the planet per Tom hanson.
I plan on looking into 3d printing them though.

Oh! Then I am very glad I already have them!
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Peter on 13 November 2018, 05:23 PM
last price I saw was approx AUD $50 each and that was 2 years ago. I ended up at the wreckers and it took three attempts to get just one off the wreck. I hope someone 3D prints them.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: UTn_boy on 24 November 2018, 01:56 AM
Scott....I've a question regarding your air conditioning work.  On the drier fittings, there are supposed to be two copper conical sealing washers that go between the drier and the a/c lines.  Were those present when the leak was happening?  I ask because 9 times out of 10 when I service the a/c on a W116 these are missing.  I think that they fall off unnoticed and no one is ever the wiser.  Either way, I'm glad the a/c is working now.  I, myself, am one of those people that will spend his last red cent on making the a/c work.  In East Tennessee it may not get as hot as where you are, but when you have a 95 degree day with 80%-90% humidity, the heat index goes well over 100 degrees.  Like you, all of my cars use R-12, and I have never been sorry about forking out the dough to buy it.  My W109 has dark blue interior, and being a dark color it takes in an insane amount of heat.  Both it and my W126 have extremely good air conditioning!  :) 
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 24 November 2018, 12:34 PM
Scott....I've a question regarding your air conditioning work.  On the drier fittings, there are supposed to be two copper conical sealing washers that go between the drier and the a/c lines.  Were those present when the leak was happening?  I ask because 9 times out of 10 when I service the a/c on a W116 these are missing.  I think that they fall off unnoticed and no one is ever the wiser.  Either way, I'm glad the a/c is working now.  I, myself, am one of those people that will spend his last red cent on making the a/c work.  In East Tennessee it may not get as hot as where you are, but when you have a 95 degree day with 80%-90% humidity, the heat index goes well over 100 degrees.  Like you, all of my cars use R-12, and I have never been sorry about forking out the dough to buy it.  My W109 has dark blue interior, and being a dark color it takes in an insane amount of heat.  Both it and my W126 have extremely good air conditioning!  :)

I ordered and installed new conical copper sealing washers from The Classic Center for every flare fitting except for the one where the drier connects to the pipe coming from the condenser. I did order one for there, but decided to not use it because it seemed like with it in place, there weren't enough threads grabbing, and it also raised up the drier enough that it was causing fitment problems.

Even with the copper washers, the air conditioning shop said the expansion valve was leaking. I informed them of the sealing washers, so they told me to remove them because in their experience they cause more leaks than they stop. That didn't work, and after several loosenings and tightenings, I removed the expansion valve and could see that the flare surfaces were poorly machined and scratched up. I guess that's what you get when you think a trusted, but cheap brand (4 Seasons) is going to work at all.

Fortunately, the shop had a new old stock Egelhof expansion valve, and the quality was night and day. But, it leaked, too, because I had purchased a cheap (4 Seasons) evaporator which had aluminum flare fittings and I think the flare surfaces got a bit damaged from the several tightenings. So, then after putting a copper washer back in (I bought extras) and several extreme loosenings and tightenings, it finally didn't leak anymore. I'm SO glad the shop let me fiddle around with the expansion valve instead of sending me 2 1/2" hours home or charging me for it.

But, I had a leak which the shop didn't catch, which was at the two flare fittings at the drier. One had a copper washer, and one didn't. Eventually loosening the fittings a bit and then really cranking down on them stopped the leak. In the future I am going to check the flare surfaces of the drier when it comes time to replace it again, and will make sure to use copper washers on all fittings and really crank them down tight.

Some people thought I was going overkill on the air conditioning system and said I should just put a new R4 compressor in, Jerry-rig the system, and run it as stock--or use R-134a. But, I can say that with the Sanden compressor, the parallel-flow condenser, all new hoses, a larger fan, and a fully converted manual climate control running R-12, it blows every bit as cold as a new car, and much better than it did when this car was new. Even on the hottest days, by the time I leave my driveway, the air is already starting to come out cool out of the vents.

I feel like everything I did was worth the effort. One thing I didn't want to end up with was a car that would take driving several miles on the freeway for it to blow cold, and then to be lukewarm in stop and go traffic.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: UTn_boy on 24 November 2018, 08:32 PM
Ugh. You poor fella.  I hate you had to go through all of that.  New expansion valves are something I don't consider anymore for reasons you already discovered, but also because new ones are calibrated for R-134A.....which puts a crimp in how you, myself, and many others choose to charge it.  When R-12 is used with an expansion valve calibrated for R-134A it won't work well at all.  The old/original expansion valves are almost bomb proof.  Unless they're physically damaged, they'll likely outlast the car.  They can be taken apart and cleaned quite well.  All you have to take note of is who many turns the brass allen screw is screwed in.  Sometimes the end where this brass allen screw is will be deformed because of the flare fitting, but it can be manipulated out with patience. 

When I restored Father's 450sel, I also bought a new evaporator.  I can't remember which brand I bought, but I didn't have any trouble with the fittings like you did.  It's been a little over two years, and none of the R-12 has leaked out.  It still blows ice cold....However, the damned compressor (General Motors A-6) has started to make a hell of a noise.  I'm quite agitated because I bought a brand new one.  So I re-sealed the old one and will put it on.  I spent a lot of money, and a TON of time getting the automatic climate control back to new and working properly, and I can't have Dad driving around with no A/C.  Though, if I had to do it over again, I would have put the manual climate control in like you did.  I just didn't have any of that equipment at the time, and I also wanted Dad to experience the full affect of it all.....automatic climate control included. haha  Right now Dad is still getting over the expense of replacing the warm up regulator and the fuel distributor.....but it runs so well now.  Both of us couldn't be happier. 

The Sanden compressors are a wonderful compressor.  They're very efficient, easy to adapt to most engines, and parts for them are easy to find.  They have to be re-sealed every +/- 10 years, but they're worth it.  The GM A-6 compressor on Dad's car is big, heavy, sort of unsightly, but it does a really good job.  I thought about putting a Sanden on my W108 250se, but I had a brand new York lying around so I'll end up putting that on for now.  It'll be using R-12, of course.  haha 

So yes, everything you did was definitely worth the time and effort.  You now have a wonderful A/c system that doesn't leak!  When they're done right they'll last a very long time.  A few weeks ago I parted out a 280sel 4.5.  It was a low mileage car.....around 80,000 miles....but it spent its life in Connecticut, so you can imagine what the underside of it looked like.  Even the frame rails were rusted through, and the doors would no longer shut well.  Anyway, it was a one owner car, and it came with paperwork going all the way back to 1972.  I noticed it had the original Frigidaire A-6 compressor on it, and it had never been converted to R-134A.  Well, would you believe that it still had over half of its required 2.2 pounds of R-12 in it?!  And to add to the mystery of it all, the car hadn't been run or driven in 10-15 years.  Likewise, but a little less impressive, my W109 had to have its R-12 topped off this past summer.  It took 7 years of daily driving and regular seasonal used of the A/C to leak down far enough to be noticeable.  I'm still happy.  If I have to top it off every 7 years then so be it. 
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 25 November 2018, 09:29 AM
I'm just glad they actually had a new old stock Egelhof brand expansion valve in stock (and cheap) that was set up for R-12. I had intended to buy one before, but they were scarce and in the $200 price range (compared to the 4 Seasons ones that are something like $18). I asked the shop if they adjust the new expansion valves that are calibrated for R-134a to the superheat values of R-12, and they said they never mess with the factory settings. I didn't want to reuse an old expansion valve and then have it not work. It wasn't clear to me before if they are a wear-and-tear item.

I'm glad to know that a charge can last that long. I had been trying to get answers more specific than "a long time". I completely went through the air conditioning on my roommate's 1991 W126 350SDL (new hoses, new compressor, new expansion valve, new drier and switches, original parallel-flow condenser [for real], and flushed the evaporator). It's running R-134a because he doesn't like the idea of using R-12 because of scarcity and shops not having the equipment to charge it. It works reasonably well, but it takes longer to start cooling, and doesn't seem to keep up terribly well on really hot days, especially in stop-and-go traffic.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: floyd111 on 25 November 2018, 02:42 PM
So the York can not be used if one wants a more effective AC system?
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: UTn_boy on 25 November 2018, 04:57 PM
So the York can not be used if one wants a more effective AC system?

Not necessarily.  The York is really good at what it does, and does it well!  It's just that the York takes more horsepower to operate....something like 9-13 horsepower.  The Sanden offers equal performance....maybe even a little better, but takes less horsepower to do so.  So when we say the Sanden is more efficient we mean only that it takes less horsepower to operate.  The York is simple, and parts are easy to find for it.  They're very universal, and can be mounted vertically, diagonally, (45 degrees), or horizontally.  Aside from how much horsepower they rob, they also have much less of a tolerance for oil shortages.  When they go it's usually a very dramatic event in which loud noises and pieces of its insides come outside. haha 

Scott's car originally had a Harrison R-4 radial piston compressor.  Those are wonderful compressors, but short lived on a diesel.  They literally get shaken to death.  I'm not sure of the amount of horsepower an R-4 takes away from the engines output, but I'd imagine that the Sanden is still a better choice in that regard.  I've yet to figure out why the U.S. cars received the R-4 on 98% of the diesels made between 1980 and 1985 while all of the Euro cars received the Sanden.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 14 January 2019, 09:58 PM
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Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 13 April 2019, 09:44 AM
I got my new tires a few months ago.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3mluXUctGaMdauGb4gKojyOb7piBgx0CSBDwEzj1JqhMIHFPAO3MspN_HgOcHK9h_nWcFJNgSU8XyNuKLulWDHL8S2sLMMaovd_D9A55uG_b-0WKdkMk5GyVzb7Nc-ZQzuZwsNK7X-6-fjlSdEuVEwjKSHI2Aam9-GM3ZCtHcWeaaVhoq2Cf_wdR8diAkV48tHfKUSXEC92C_ttxPb6v-Pe89VRMogy0DsHY40ESPMbPl6PzFlhr8DKwmTpgJfvK17YPF320CkqfkGK_iKw1F-BiM5v4j1Nw3K8h8kN2WQ8g9daEYQK1VZGK-MniaPbl2tIIq_mut9piPE13Thqf0sS9BSLgslAvnAQ556UKMg-OAu0mZcGqZeV-w7LaoC0_-0ATOIEUvXDmxRlXXM6lOUDJ-r1dbRDyaNwVJn9NWk8e1NQCrvyaug54AyKCM2X1xTggot9neyLFYcArGdckd23ryuIsHxjrBWnJ2wfY8As-6FJAwch0Sl-BD48y1rjKmAgyonW2YI7XFg2gmettqH1ayUKCN4B52gJaXU-WG7B4FpDu3WR2TB6AfEsUSPGmiJxhtauB5skMg98W903ECLxbCtB1YBNEAbHjWBzaLCyAcofoxopBKcmkKrqpDY3WkG8ceYNveoCgXL9e6gKmGTK8NCJj1Kw=w800-h453-no)

It's interesting because they've always been advertised as made in USA, but the ones I received were made in Mexico. Oh, well. They still seem like GRRR-eat tires.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XOYGjj0BBj2FiLr1w8Kkcly4mV0IrahEVmFrDfqRCGEk1YJzBerLDlWnGAwVMHkDBkXUxnu0Jbrn34cReiF4Fa3ZBYYFb41Kemlj3gw3sEgYuysEy_0JPQON5VYpYfCIETp20ZsTpXJqJ1egOXXLTFLAtRllXJq3gfUvQZQM4DA6BGnV3TQlqVfndlDbQWYAiYxXYjQxX2vsrOOil_9JHtRyxF9o7MLgzaoT0PXFScZG31Nv1nfXGAcaVc_CFThGL5PY1VIk11DOL7OdA-rplawPh4lGQIbWhUuvCXbqCtmdWpjYkJiBOiurG5xvGyVOk5sxC8Y70b6Mu2TwfmupYkjJjyrWUei265dsk7eI6TNrxunnsie9dRLQNGqEqTDG8Td16yHtQJFmxzIpzkb_JJaxaoTaXrMFetwSqh3ix59LXlLC6cPDMZpuTi0qfzOVCu5m8YmrxF_-MJKZ9QlLvimlShTVe-Ge1YgbhJFEMqIf4rBqIX-0H-qmTI9BikUZIlE3HCBXIfw24xy8Rxh_62byAMCf75XSpO2VN_4lG8PlGqils-n5L1KoWwsu7i1n7FUWvVR8sJoyWqAvFftYPLx8B1ZQky4JkgbRZ-fpsLSiC4IQWhPCBLQkeIrLJZODxM9CeluWT4f9ATuI-8gl3awyzqMPGm4=w800-h453-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kePFocqHIFWpg_OHJFaLpGiYTHhqs6trl6xgnOVtAJy9z4Ito1bA1qhCEI1I4Sq-K4ieSSxy3xMybVIUR12BmnKAgtFqFn2csfhLkr1ceTXjyxK7bWbuzxM6DsK-MfxTrasD28eBTYSvBiXtsycftETEAru2HRkkEWZWVdbV04qW9rEF_A75YkySPbhQ1XjxBiS9DMdg4zLdOdjydkhEM-cChGdRjwntbzYFPKMeeGdZbAS_Fs5x_f_wFXIKwqtFT6VJdkxL2fSUne9IyjpuAkMFJcHMEH0KkSbL9Z2TLIeQqWhHMoVmSVSZ-kYWeF1EM_H0YbcYK9YprcvIewfTSksHUd2VwKx4uVeIEUsPyG9tMVCGw0NMBx0K_6EEWsDXpx0pepMdNIyFfJxX3-NAK32u4RIw2oOTE26XAc0MoLlWrlwp1qXw9wRxBp29AApZCNUcnmsczEcIWBhjb4sE-83Exbqsfu0rmBiit2SstWrMK3NtP7iVnnFT8x_YeQnpWQk8RBCCIJKz36w6N7K1NXrBMS9H-by4aBLHJ4bJVw67JIWE4PM4_-8Q06D-zShrbpRw_9DImVd7la2846-QRTpYuBpMBBKsR_LpoPFV0vRhmClO0fyNDEeIIGsCbOWLpOSYhL1PJGPZi7M5oWMuasovA4SdsDo=w800-h453-no)

Uniroyal Tiger Paws have been around for a very long time.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/m5wYDXbrEEvjTy-DdrE1ANU3_qh8yanKrXH7Um094deqApX3hNS6tLZq30kyZdevUhTjJGPeei0QXW5-vsx_0mEzAOyHeD8F1tEQvW4Qzu30uy6m1-faNhBt60Wx4xpeK6EKvpXNfr9AMidMogn1QoV66FR5x9Rc3nbyX5h9ecFp_jid9fKDDSXORFU5JMdhN7UGJ90wjnxaiolgtphDyoBDwKLw2Ea-OezAD0E7ZERmvlL1VdaUBSWuT_uVpzjrHBcMaF3aPXYTsMF2kaR_m5pHZYKB9ACsG6z2AcCcKa7I1emDqkyK3EnRAHp3E6xSqU4tC7X-Jp9tyNnmUId_iJkV07Nl7R54rYN_q8AybFzJu_ug2XqKQFyv7S_NRoECi9gDvd8pqgvC4oDDG3rUn6tGXDs82aU9yT48mt03muCGR4IClBp9tQeMwSteq7XBWdtgl5MzbpyNRp-BVbePxPHZmLxDhfQIhSqNeuNNqes85o9Wh7AcbsPgpEUxROlFXAEL77TVEdoTCB-jcxyAk43I6dQ-3XUJcL_fr7r8QdM5Zm7dXgWs1A-g7kJedyY4FgH92n2K7tiWwlC1K4zKEtI4lupvnqe5At--Y8gAmwPhvUpTtLrUTH9xEaEi5m2m65dc4z3KqZl95b-80V_RZ_cMnAaU6Ig=w550-h366-no)

Our rescued dog, Koda got a Tiger Paw tire, too!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jxDMmFFxNzle0pDrQFv6xc1367mlbD0Nh0BezNlrJFCwUjpX5aCsdwnUeNWIonkIEL1xob4U3pO-K9wc0iLyt5ECYRlJuYUBBpv0LzKPAHn4DJVIksgXZcJYEfL2Wano6pu-1GufWTxGN228zN2Qsybaii4f-X-79PdMC-NYiourup2agDV2E0g6fQfs1-IwVqGt0OhsjESzxsh32m08KczvXKTqzuXVxESMeJNSZpzKM3XG3XmDKwmYHOd91ikQFYEyA_nQ2UQ4_Cg7A-VkbAxTB-pU3XIKik9ujk1FwNKQ-Y1OZ4sdRYpoQSeYNcYRny_gVHMaVM6eWiZk9Vgb_ltZ_KAOLHAIEhSUpmzP_Ahu_9cFNWLHeYzAj3-S9XOwiKV9kiM-_Gwo3nL0uCGoHzw72WZP5SdA6Ry1HJr0kSf0s9AvqSPTsOwQTyfLC2qENpA-kQhXkRow9cbqs5oY0m1lAHnGokqcbNO0Iunk66Qsd-zOkofdpNA1VPKg3SjSI7lwtnWkiPM8tETRPByH2R3jgxPxqc5jXxQ8Aoof1qKJn_zKKQvxg3ghzwYh-7zlCXULGANS-ZOZVk6elfYCqsC7-UCoE4-ck6WMtF2HTYCWwnUKU_P_1W4XXDAHUuwKsMAqukNgrN4jnOdIeZ7vPuh4MMl4IiA=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 13 April 2019, 09:49 AM
What a difference in the ride they make! Now I can drive my car again without fearing a blow-out. These tires are 195/75R14, which is the closest equivalent to the stock size of 185/80R14. The tires I had on it before were 185/70R14, which were a smaller profile tire. These new tires are about an inch larger in diameter and fill up the fenders nicely.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iklcr2PUJsJcAMfRsg6lbMlqDuYxYafh60GU-lettL7L-e2Qcj6vNoT6jzvxnQrzBfmTiRM2bGuc1DD1wbu3TTvHbyqnKvkLiN85XVVSIlP32Z1xd0qhu-LZlmUK-4tFJRGjrI-vi6Eav-UQRbzXoQgJkV5lcUnIUdzp_ODbvTmPlMB_re3xSEjj1t2WggwbghMc3YYAFp5VQrcZbzDXKkwjnv-qtlN2GnVcU0uRFEX7QAuiqjUr5PJi0KF6HSXfB9gLX9zNq01n3aXOU8li2xQRFRe_C1KOHGlv30oWq7XiXpt2OlBBG7bWyj2HdbdEmJkhpYvc2PifHlmQMOYlStOO02Mmeo4LmyhqcOCw9aQqGL4q4FXa7oo1N93JaxZP8z0WVcxvzDjUXNXtn3cvEqs1JfFAyfz3yz6eGNOVpI7TDxW5cEUBJw1qbnhQlil4FhJ3BKkTJg5IAhRePtvtxpA9Ep2yVXgulQ5-elblo_wvbUFudkT2FN7zSrJxgnV6-m2FGuact318Ick-beAAjCvvQIL9P4F2MEdnBMqrcnbZeNAUJAzjb_KPIVboil-ZABqL965oz9nCF2fKPWsvn6T9bJiAu1po0fbTnhcXb59zBaSBUmpIWx6eX_FFYH6O0pWeocLijl_LMBZ9MbZ4ClgK3hxHDuc=w800-h453-no)

The rubber is so soft. Pet the kitties.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wIjFUDgDQEnVHREGYzxb2tJqI-kgkMc9vuC0i16JRH0dEPT5g9TTiNvqI-oLvFPVgtKCJBi94-qYT_IidQWCs8gU6pzT_mSvc4Qfht4xUydJtZkoeiG2rWgLD2YmV7tEPTxGVDq-CHBEcG4YYWwGHfZA_gy77x3Z4nW5_sBCrXhFq6z2KI0u857y1uM9rE9KKXrxCo0ot_g47gsnixSYVGqexlvdu1xEDvY3aplGHPo7lq50pwXoQpq2uAJ9xakELxJiEn4nLzDKHDV5blwMdQHpLkMxvPXfD3e4l6bGIH_a5z30L9U56G-IsfJ4mOrgtC-ClFvUDZI5MNDUBZWyLrWrtPYx-V1RXmi9SPGg5DEl7RCZv_gdzFWrQHmg_PgM4oKsJMCN2pGJM4eHwKvZyc-rT08ikguAFnuX38cpeCZYRPBA6B2QbuUjE6hqRJQodC_GStk9lxCjCT13SV_-l6wto60p0flEE2Z7SqLQWZE0xphNN9rUrpnnLksSjz1SDhJbTOJEfKAegF4in1KR5AwqvZfu9727lHg3a-fIgHmNgAvkGBQyAEyHfr2BEqBOHsSOHR03W72YvMSMEt8aEi_w5GnyEdE4x7WWMW1Bq__oaOqEY3354qxmtDLQ7juBZr7_vMt1bbcCRBSbzfKkrz_LlJXIF9o=w800-h453-no)

Here is one of the old tires. It has a date stamp showing it was made on the 44th week of 2008, so that's ten years ago. As you can see, the tread is quite worn and there are cuts in it.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/EG7Sb3dCEIdQ3nAQYoyAbgHZFcQdKOkIWWXdV-NNq9USHmkaAIhLx9Db364H8-iqpLvuMBaJpZB4BNDe7ZbYQUfG3ad0Voea4IHTuqabI6YuUriqM6w49AuZiGH9d7nuuSN12FZ6R2lkdmvhc2vIU07ngaghIRQoCX9-9kHOUZyK17IqDoIbOjsA42YQf7eNNjfSLzQJqs14SBmtQtUymy4rIG_8rkVtPdTpamGGz1oFmDYasq5w7v1-V3V_7NiUqtaR6-8nZP6zr0VRUD7CXcetIeNyfwFuG8iwbXQ0nll2mn8nOBfET8FkbUBRJGMeJ8OQjvSZ0TjmjaDxudBBL6wRps-PyfJSJ0GaE0SNkMtzGHMp1m0XFcS4YJpOKGmHdrUVCSxB5pRDqDcfMNJUg-J8G_Ro2E3iqMR2b1DqhVupke7bRELz6RzlQob4IuiiLwBjHGWOvihgLp8vZLVxN8oRV1oGqlzwY67itC1QWZYneR9jnFFkPXTIRzhC8iSk914nq8xc4qlOdjqeIzl5qBup_4Ah4veQFLd4xu9Anz9iJRwsX6pjaxLPyACAouhtPVH9JvXHmNo_a5H-iLv_6SivL84M5fr8mjQydsMMqMj4ZGUkl3I4iR2IC2F1lkhCsRol0ICEiFpQDAgi5DSlcr78lIhtkBU=w800-h453-no)

A sidewall cut with torn threads.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MXQ3VPvbHVwBLJnzCEKXc5kKCOq4JPiXtFZ9imI4_r73XHhgXyTmJbG7V4u3cf576AB1WWzA8jgXi4VbkP0zbJRkYWzcrEZsGTAprJUsP1Fm8PyhZR2EqliqO76AJLlgVIO-hoSV7StfoZLqB0qZLahpPFDBdQ4Ho9mSfwm_cv8oAZ5-vduPBUngfGaaPjpE543-4NrhgkElgzgVZ_7QuD89eTMtWCLDo7EnDalpFxIABhjNytBasdMVQfrMFys0dafxzjm9BvE11xBrOV5yKB95RGAKZfTvDx4W6Ba3LFUsK_nMC7LI0xRi014sK4UGyylcTZDJWqDdgNEv07m2tD0YLpe7OCfZHw8CkAOg1XiEkR1729PvQfwpvJdTSHftWoBAm3lP6FsqIo1DBG8z72hcUjhFmiDpJG9Y7oTn9E1ikRyIPiX1WR853rmZu4ndFqzgF1qGFBCg-ALAQ_e_Rbn5RbzLAs_l3patmVFKsKiaXw6i1C9YAt17jivEtXVDUX9-zWWRYT9MsIn7NF6zyCRZakqSTpmcbGBNjJgsH6q0Q3oFZoPoh8TlBcHs__nUk_9lRuIa5GE46o1a-IOKLlblIQkUmQvtzgMxzYzj0lgE3ly3vZboqIfkbdCiuODQ7sykC-1YJ_yKXS2cJkNMbiFxbEpoLc0=w800-h453-no)

Another sidewall cut.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wuA6m8djYx7I8CvVxpGDextcqFRT0-ECbAzaK-318wwU_nOLYYJe8B7Aox4jMJvKre9J8kfrvNdhHvUnnmLxe_zw_VKyTY6SJmAA_8HGStzEVDiyOc4nNkFnQZLqZ-TALox7xs0Lbmf7ndPOvtDxrJ0Gi6Ha2TtZG0QPKtcpBrxhTKql0vQFcmeDmi7x7utH1xlaXxjBqJxCW5aYnQuf7f-ZHldofyCAdmFIFmHZ7OSa5Sk4Y5nk_UE27geLmCnRc4Nug0VfaVDNozitqzd4YHMbq4_ivet3KaHObHFYFvXjze1iyBKvrFYPwCktCCTiHJAL2iUGSWy8Bxrb-HmxEguEJ-Ak1-5tsaAv7CDBVxFfiafvp8axwoOvZr4k68dwoAc0milbJFUdR_G7VNXvgI1gpskTa0QT61FhUfqOjgBG6fw-DJcFYNEQK96aqKQj52YP67vAU7kYyfbG610ALyR-jCf2wgUTaB54qMSPSNcAtUo7snoc83MT6kPuR_VNjkfeXab2GL_VfAaWOjATwETS_lwIvJUMemaKbneQImtu1AoJ21mVqPbcVobtd404jTY_bg5zv0ZTNLSBRDZlRRHK2f3sZ_NiCOVmSOIIEjvoRU8WfWhWicVpSKzrtvQB6yNzWbKbKtG3Biu90X5i6sycnAcuJs8=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 13 April 2019, 10:05 AM
My car has been down for a while. For the past few months the alignment has become poor, the rear of the vehicle feels like it's loose and makes clunking noises, and the last time I drove it to Carl's Jr. to get a Beyond Famous Star Burger without cheese, it was difficult to steer and the front end was making popping and clunking noises.

The major diagnosis was a worn out tie rod and broken rear swaybar links which were rubbing against the new tires. But, most of the steering and suspension components are worn out, so I ordered the parts I need to replace every part to make the entire front and rear steering and suspension like new (ball joints, control arms, tie rods, drag links, idler arm rebuild kit, bushings, subframe mounts, swaybar links, differential seals, etc.).
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/cbbYQ-b2Fp3Mafs5N_L2l84LwHOrGD0gZEnMAWzvdrWm4HMP884BJt66PnDMhi1fz450f2TESOzmnwyEAJ7quJ-SUpzUStNzOkLgkXLZHzk9PvkrrkFaylM5ir2xsvysYR-DN3v712a1OK6BzQ-j01L6Bdq1W7ilJasKdsepOTHsbNdYWTKVwKQUTKE4BWPFNVxxOnPnLOo2ftJdszb1mHD_XlLet5yz5YQdchSFGtIp4gL5AUf6QlD5k2jcTL1DbaGipgZ3YVWlnBPrknnVUW0RANg07E9_w271DTUqFWnaQdyqbftZQa6Pa5z7QnYN1_1cNfH2g_thcAF_t4d5zpqAvx_2CUCrSJRYoGWr4GdHrfK_hi2KqNmCrariFDJWwfh611mk2hC1umrgsm_qeOKDyZbpoYFg3nCZDNBimWdixNIIN3MOKjT4UiMb1_ISghYVKP8Z6wcSMraKQoZVZR_wcm_sOomVogVMJ8qgCjgvCiS8eQ4Y2iwq18p4XnwEEo-ipvuJcvXauz4ppnXgBC_pM6lgKguckSS1Sn04sGj5-k56YAu4iyeNaaocuy3Qiwsq-UaHdply775jud1jZcfvBJLFglTL2RThB-u5FHLlq-XWzwgYKGUC0gkDht2D5ngt5UJMUpR7h2XWDzfw7c4tTQteImk=w800-h453-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5apS0Z07BAABj2WD2V9Fi56CcytmPDcw5jFnbftDnpfob83jN289Npscnyo0JthmXNOKIJSym0s40MsHv4Ey_pwEAkBDZ0ExzJhdCFHeCmbrqenAJjzmFxUfWUBOs_szVSmO4DV9oocGzGOpfSEM3garSQHW_avS2mk87mrNX3bkvC5RdOTpP_A8RsagNwbf03_mN1gpX6lSh70sWiD4R9ZpSoHXlEvpzjn-KC9-KojwkOu_IyYqHB6DvDaieaUIcLp-HKoE2eucHuUtC11-Uy5SxwDHLWyPwId5_1CXbM4PE1l4GcMMszUYeLhqzc6aIntxYupYbSKWgtGwqBU_l47mBGaEcGI5dQTgKePJISMuqWBbPzBt5G2F4AIYDux7VK4gaWoPBvuGqODDlxdSipl8cdmfQ_fS2iYl5-qjQ0dX41Y94AQORO4M7LjTzddrULf-F7p6mtgNIsytE-o_Ojh6n9FcGUci84MKL4LW7wzPId1XyLJnH8f-2axrUcRpefngCVY0IvyBfvd9YVroARHahfz9HBzAynv7E4rgxgxP2RglzQqpNVV8QdUror_HpW6kFk1cGGpuib-cdtLrmGs-vFWhLky2GFIakcp5Auv-PCXNFFgpR06T2DfnvQHNjNtAqZd8Jf5jZ-NNdehfDVxGufba2_g=w800-h453-no)

The axle shaft boots are also cracked and about ready to tear open, so I ordered remanufactured axle shafts from CVJ Axles because I don't want to mess around with trying to cut these ones apart, repack them, and install new boots and crimp on new cans, only to still have worn axle shafts.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tZKYqtbVeSrKhRHV2QCpn7IEh-MxtYF-QuCuAPAKqF9pgczSWi8xDWdJfJcZAMifL1NEMo5weuIL7O_p3RjV4s4GDrH_tu0t6B9NCSUvFzjRZwtJS8zARFVJSL6gEBLhEHkX3j43y1x3DklA2PaUkjnHBdCNwnI9d719to3G7WgMSOG3IFug8_Z3hK_5iPc398i8fdf2I52ADBv6kkki4Yic5FHYZHI231iFoh-P5FCxB4qjk-0K4kllohr1KE05_Uv9zFAx0lc_39N32qwOvhIBfH58z-BOQtPPCcLqrZPXjcOZzm2j_soUb1lLIvwnIue8CmygntXulamRuTNBY_noeJtSDKpV1kNyfzf0CbcbI9TEJJSG2sh_46k2Qpa7Gyqxyz44sDwYWz29CqwePQua_eIiOPBlroOrf4xAt9d6bA3uek_bAN6M-32CGA6kVutCSOAmvGbMub5gbhyJd8PBXQ5kuT5uz_lykJdvUKKPnlQS1hNvBNsIfAYJzwTql8UCItZrttWcb3lH20mkeO59K_DaFW0mp7hZQJGAlQuPljbM42_-OtU9hyGPcLlxkmhHF7DJhaWDEmudH7CjN0nKQsN9Be6LL9U_sxk1k0FlFSzAcqYByrrz88pi7PDju870uOFO4qVRTt4BrtMw_ugef9QUIwg=w800-h453-no)

I purchased mostly high-quality German Lemförder brand parts and I felt the price for everything was very cheap, in fact probably less than it is for most other cars. This is going to be quite the job, and sadly I can't do it in the garage because my side has been taken over by other projects.

I guess after 39 years and 346,000 miles, parts are bound to start wearing out, but they're usually inexpensive and I can replace them myself. It's also a well-engineered classic that's bound to go up in value unlike an appliance car which isn't worth fixing after it's ten years old (if you can even get the parts).
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 13 April 2019, 10:17 AM
The parts I ordered started coming in. I would have liked to use genuine Mercedes parts on it all but some of the prices were several times more expensive than the Lemförder, which are typically still good quality. I really cringed ordering the Meyle lower inner control arm bushings, front subframe bushings, and rear subframe mounts, but they were the only brand available other than genuine Mercedes.

Then the price differences were so huge between Meyle and genuine that I couldn't justify it. For example, for the lower inner control arm bushing kit, I paid $55.08 each (X2) and free shipping for the Meyle ones. Mercedes wanted $380.00 each. That's a difference of $649.84 plus tax and shipping just on those two kits! For the front subframe bushings, I paid $13.90 for a pair with shipping for Meyle ones. Mercedes wanted $54.00 each. That's a difference of $94.10 plus tax and shipping on those two bushings. For the rear subframe mount kit, I paid $47.83 and free shipping for a pair of Meyle ones. Mercedes wanted $276.00 each. That's a difference of $504.17 plus tax and shipping on those kits. So, I saved $1,248.11 plus tax and shipping choosing Meyle over genuine. I really wish there were at least Lemförder options available as I really try to avoid brands like Meyle and ÜRO. But, I don't have the money to pay the difference.

I was very disappointed to see that the Lemförder idler arm kit was made in China, and the upper control arms were made in Taiwan with one of the boots having a grind mark cut in it. I also paid extra money to get the pair with the control arm-to-swaybar bushings, but it appears the Lemförder control arms already come with those bushings in the box, so I ended up paying extra money for bushings that weren't needed, though I will say the Febi brand bushings are more substantial than the ones that came in the Lemförder boxes. There is only about a $10 difference between genuine Mercedes and Lemförder upper control arms, anyway, so I decided to ship them back and order genuine.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mwEZ-owDQY89YxtEdpyuC6KzAclFuOhI_I63mADqq4-5fLVHrkMNk2dd9Kw-kU847zKEsO7PeeoEKOzgNOIzS47AakNYNZTYSRblt8zr9QnrUBJYxraD6ei-MOR55Y_i1UOJAgX4qGPMdWYqxsUrv7mdD-pvYb0TnI31IQy_UkmqAOhx6WSUr0OgluCMNwLRLH8PKLJDDLKnO4Ec_T7V8QZ_1JHJs6LF2iBbmXq_xefd_9ZZXDj71JA-Bp2wlnF5MMdnFgRyIFAm1rPCorjrmCaRsF3bMQ8DiQxCNrE65_daUrb9aeNfGS69hKFOMbTe3KL-2WKX_s0Fm5UcvB7828n_QHiOqtDbkjQUv4-z3gMLp1jKalbl3oaoSZrD7Rcl8AbAuilL6colxIiUAnUa5FPsxThjA4JPd93LpvQjm1mbnNMYoMcsd9Uf6jvVkPuk4zwM6v-unpXFNrhZrQE_vFTrCcYhym9OUOoDYq1TiZk6b74SololY1li97qN4_IjDqIdp93nyrDfYrwQXN58k_eudAk53h9S8ZhxBkx8T4CYDkIvKzeU_VExS6K3786GG6kuez61vVLaBzGTVBu-CUYVhVQ-t6X7gvOwX99ED3UTj9EB2s-blWmIzGtPA0QyqI3wt14EnKLhwyLDpmIRZJyJyLTyefU=w800-h453-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TXMZDEQ8sGimteDJ8ahqXmAMhV82e-rBb6Bt8TnVpgx0FqG9InVpQ6D8imIybzIJ6ST4p3MbABsRsxBQ9xD6T1BeI0O9kDeEpDvf7IWcce30cLMwcvHuybwWjYq6KsN0XPabIBRukzpiY2DkAWYn7EgkPatw6mPp_yHfkNXID89yn6YZ8Ujn1Rh5j6jvRbIcBAFRK99fQtgTVJRg8cEgxwjTvdok2D-YgIT8DzF8cb50uO0EBEC0o0Im07yZbYcj7J5Cdr30GWqMvJ88EVfgRDvrQ8Wh9i2kZda6476v8a1b4Di_iqla1_ADSJbWIGVj9_9Rj8dorWa2EEboH49xfpk8gm-V2PwKEpDqmfXPU_1KLsFj9SMULRsAHuGdcu78xf3cxqCdTBZKFrd2Pq3eyaC-IqkDdxh_jdVjBVkeKu7th8IGu4RgYJHg2GEPSl8IEqq-YpuIR7_rDYG9yOW8hfatqQKbWVa4mHWseceXO79Lqil5IqaTTSNPbP5mHhVBG7-wcUOyybBwHG9iupA0ik-gXwjyzpsROG30wZxh4s9xnDqwnsjt5eTW7pChVOz2YfvD6q8Thw4JsZsisfgbEhXPiN1n63_VPxrNM1VdFv8wsbTikQDpmL2HUjjCjfXFLdYK5yg4NOdzSk5UTBUvW3JzrF9OAvU=w800-h453-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0nK-rKkQHsXTZj2HGW2BXQrna9qoB-ez-mCQKYKwTt9gw48LQTEZtQYWPoStd4O__VMvc8jDlEFpc-UU3FyciiwORe9UWizGeQeV135z_pVO30qqARfQcuscZ7Wc2EfFtDj7cMJ0STgK-i7w825DdpuffNbd7sxdH3593SErcEjh_1T4HrP9WvsHf0RIwlFHcsCfusdzhJsbcnweJbU0yHJ1GowEfoW2RD3MuoxtBXtlm7HoiELnWe9QSOuGrS8fH8F6RzEfjSK0wCBPRc69ezC2BPwmlCRgrvQ7N_NNgYZ29T8uEI_fZ2mji8Lb9exvqarRVsdsqZDnt_a7YLnMi-Q__SFWKpPAsNzKna7LmG0Hk716BksTBHF7ZOsTKpqKibL7lur8JkVQYRYamWwgczgEB8EJORyjPCoTAL8K7B1vDr7FecNQ3CBgrh9Lk0YQegyNUyKTFQ5ND0n3LF6rSIkN3mYMp-iQZ-FHH3XdbYwUQ7DepE-ZSaco2-z-4MK-sLoEQh9AK8ffZE3RbhxPaG3YNtBo8cb0UhITv0q0ACeMnNqTFbPCWDhMQll_YxvntqMBNNWGCLRSRmM4iL4SrrOutdXX1pClbZ3JXg2kMpo4H-bm9xo-Do0fD9Ijihf97qxbI_tMEV-Os1R9jXAcc9lJerXJHfw=w800-h453-no)

The Lemförder rear swaybar links, drag link, and rear trailing arm bushings arrived. They are made in Turkey. I guess buying Mercedes parts made in Germany is quickly becoming a thing of the past. And the reason I care so much about in what country they are made is I want the parts to fit correctly, work properly, and last a long time. I don't want the rubber boots and parts to dry rot in the desert climate in only a short time after all the labor that's involved.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/22KeTHXU5lKd7m9VrF1hCmSAqGS1vraz6Gx3Nc6gWv6wgDPsXAvGsaiIcsBolqxxKVXgWxX6QyLlzTj0EEk6dm22TKaLQkF4iEyULzzuUUFIhC4BvMpuGW5B9dkuvDQIN7tPeDm8Mnk-ovXArRmNxipwsWsKqPvVWWZSQjaeiAfAekRWLdSw-FMcPbLi6eI0zdl84SntDcqKoqAcMUO0eFCOsZ3_WLakhTGNSunTqKjPm3ONapGSjd2K8BGtff60GcmavQ62BVwVutTDJZCYEbXOclup6svF-FKaOZ5BH-ea1lkuovcxcVHeEUqhGBFkws5q2np4oV0SyJX1CDSMwPuAUGVFC4aEWnXSZcuCHEJTokuFtkB8eTy7h7ldMXYQB9p1FJVTgP62qiDDdODfu63ed1zSUkvNceL2SniUr6bdyEZNOYTkqId7x1g48wUxyIaMRpU_DrPvi5QKbAyQQsgbFnpCvTzrQp1K2On2RkkDogUh935Ebb18rDFhv1lyv5iOYGNQBCCbrirIPPHiEmIk7emAvszooVoRDQsDakaUGjwcDH8dUDdtjp6vc-oj9pQHVFnIvF3JGV50ugoDJKSSWA2QQLdd6YOO5HLg8v_iZXdUzsisOP3J599-K3sOMmWVDGGhDUMrInJeZfZHyv0eTVd8iM4=w800-h453-no)

I'm pretty sure that back when I rebuilt the steering in my 1968 W110 200D, all the Lemförder parts I received were made in Germany, and that's why I paid the extra money over other brands. Now it seems that if you're not buying genuine, you might as well buy the brand that has the cheapest price because it seems there is no guarantee of quality or country of origin anymore.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 13 April 2019, 10:32 AM
I lifted up the rear of my car and disconnected the axle shafts by removing the 10mm head bolts on each side and then using a brass punch to punch them most of the way out of the hubs.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Lkx3Hdju2hG5X_TCV0qMkEnHAmuJyoGdzSGfWxvQgeSDt4wUtMzzAL7m6JZ8EITxNWcOLkCi982J0P0yD9kU16igvds_bwctZpDwJ6ouQ0NrpjrxmtQp_5n0YCP1GLLTiGgRpvYBp_eIfEzYa_cqZnUF-BitzcKBgcw6yNNytqqxmATMuqWWrLAk4DU9Lciv3wdkPORgkz6ohD7lY6JbbQpA1AdlkLeI-s9StLgDA96Kx3tdJNe2_t2rg4MRpRULjzwSquXTpVv760HHKFvbIQd4NFQ5gC0Et3aFx1Y0MiqvEejdEyEpehbdqJOY15I1Sdy2VMQld98p9fF_denfOccDecTsqmmg3lXHUEHXurzV9OPX8ss-E5ou5aHFYll7EJVWT4gIsbI8-KnFbq6_QvgpvFnvxKg-piwdUpC--bYOVudxd-bJKVu3GQo7ymsJ6BdBOMNq6mUlt5zF3xYoY1KJHckF1KdObGmaRHL3MmDBzrApdAN_wt2-Etjt1TLzUYmvPzcnHN4TAFyl9RswltgN9FywCbaAx5p_UXEmtwx4J8JSCEBl4R02n3HP3w7Ce63CEF-4NaEldtaQg0jh77wf1XS1yGwuh3vQQ7pTSP86c1Mh1Yp6rho_Wg0XCL0B-xAZBNpItmNJ-4pf3cTTR53ZEz6SUaY=w800-h453-no)

I disconnected the driveshaft from the differential, supported the differential with a jack, and then I removed the four bolts for the differential mount.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5mqXzZ6H5c-5WVhYHotQnXiX7yN3edqA3HoKSlK2m33KMe9qHT1bKNnLXIMsRotu2aF00PWX1VXnFmHkkIoV0vFf3XT4AfA7D7x3QXVhaWkhzBGoGn7c0S8cXew5Zed5XgJikGCqvcXz6E2-SyJTWu3vKeRh4B-iBWYmP1IA7JjlvSjJ_flyaHKT5Bwcr5roZdHmG7vgOtr-O5uxRKc02HGe0jrkIRQQss8qActbxpYjrv9U7cf1DBc7uPOmdlCXr-LCdy1N6oHPHqnzOJcYa-M6KIYySUuFB2ufE7Xbf7w3AfosjPSa9QEWVy_A5PblVtlH1jRUzPcT2Xc1ij7TtwSS9Ghe5TMl39JMi_UHA-EB9P7Wkfb9kx8Ngm4-G5fgOi2HR-Dj-SbXu7S-VU6pNHTD_QgUcNOuBSBth_4j2kdBWI7YhJT3jsjxTXaK84i9erOUnZ1GVf8aDkTb-aom3KdUGtFxdF3O-Rx9wvywHlQz7CFtxVI-q3G_QK81Epu5tEthWcoHgIFeyTg_Vomx_FU__UYR7aNWMVDeZ-pbuX5lLHORsQDVThDHKdA2p8AzBVZkKwUvveYwkdfkJfvr2lZJ-NKHbTrVZkmRdNe4fyZfqF3zZkI8h1DZpdhwGx7vdeeIQO1c5KnUfsDNXCCONqgN0ufOdJc=w800-h453-no)

There are four nuts that hold the differential to the subframe, and all of them were loose!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3ZaE3l2nexzBdPXn4sQI0Vlzup6I6DsvQcRbq_BODYjkidS4QpOR5P-zw9uTm7GbFH7wtYued_zpqbC2v8xxVCH8gayjrJybZLg0ff24KJJM_P9pFUbHTaqe-vkA5AYOG1So8mhE5SwTnxxXj-DF81c3U5_Ea9dhrPZT3mITcn-6Aq7UQyX2_lx1HO2rWOGoo8QngCuiIA273yQ4kr2hFp4znDHUIMahj_htJza-H3RPcn5o8T3GBfE9-SEW92g0MpP2a04w8YyOe9wAbGkP3x7SXXCnex2jlp9KSMW32YxZUAkoVinaLrafWD_L0PQ63UnAX8k2fMculsCj-ZhwNqkQiuCW_Zr8u2RErKz-FfIXodRYOBSk5jTJqXCCtBhRKfuR_2w1yRumWMXFbxSn_vYYQgtmc3wjDrd1wwjmNLO1Hej5AoG9RDoSqzC8K7cNEosNNAzQKkOdMTmxagVO_ERm7FuJ2hQWrbFsfNgLdG696HuW-BbSYlQcyWQnkY9Feb2IK_cRigvKK97EfAOMNjgWW7prIIlXGvW0UxUU2fDHDC1Xy8kTl6A8lpDAqs0DYGaD76dd5H8Tn9X1Uedrx9efbsGwnIBXISEaxHMaChsVv3zRthfVLdqAOzQm2aM7oXyvpF6dZZXPXHhdarND-RwIphIgTq8=w800-h453-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wAN1EMbYvgslbXFZe3IxDOMb1l6vOp6hWjZu148VIYt1YihciFPtMLGMM00uFO1SsvlTDikvkETGtViZk2lejWD3G75H-uW1boD4eHKCgpp6pM65txep08fAz76BWCKNHXzLDPe2HlfX1gzQqoCdkdab4jjwX_AC2ofbOBRME4owynfO4zJgK_ucgHUAh1u32qGCfMfLiR-Bwoj_bppYOuuaV55jwejxdqr2dilHAd-XpfgxsccDI74P_M2yQkgoPA6pE8p5zh0bDr_S84Cwm3WmaHpWGorRYlE3bMNdnctjc7O1H2yR3pleYHrxLGSZcxn7l0NQnyQp2wVCwgqES30aa7u5G8xhpVt_1wush8yt84pfvwT6uP8ovui_j5pf2ZMFk87svUjeF2wqV3Rohlw7NQ3VgQfuAHD5LfjgGxsz0IPeLa7BM4vXKn-HKuDQuWrvkmW40-Sqwy0R3AJBf4xHROywmd8w1H8CdWfcqewM0FWDIu0-TtKH0YpTKB27G0yvYs42iA_gMv5f2aaieS--X9xUQ0fPKHHJlUaIXlIV6x73p85SgHPvcPCzuND4HWCcgl4t74Ya1nMM9zPX7ZORK1sjKGyP_KzaZ1cXqos5J_NGWVkUtdhrqzpz8LDsk5w-9XXvZlRHxwUk8lWioZZpM3vDGyk=w800-h453-no)

I lowered down the differential and slid out each axle shaft from the hubs, then rotated it so I could roll it out from under the car.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/CFFCJLqtLPfLXkKQ88tO-pibMKwve3rpXsxEJ1n-E0_XyRKo-Hw7nt4nDr2TytdvtxIBU33wVrIxfFjyX5BlukZgy2P0Vp_j_WmzISlM_5pr4QYFSMEqjdaBfFgt0azaSUTEC2dxErMkKl1Ruuiqn8Fj85I_igaZgIBCNdY0vxZ_lY3iboK2n0y7qZffGkEtFSR07UCBzd-SxLDDSgqfzjw3OyxVsP8Za-v6jHbiNPWMY3PB-QfIQnYBwIG2cImxF9-iSgGQ4vYj3xHFXsf7Olta7wtrI9_56DBFyZ_QJaTsDyUHy3-rt2hKshIk3Pqqgls_8IPIOtGdjInUBZ1yKMbiTi7cRGeCHuVCeAENwB-0Z5uTJSDq-klqDr6Q_6NPlYY2yo4c569b3gJv9Z330u4K3d3gWd-rN3LPR8_rWMO1Xm_YR0BjrnjzwFv4Ln5SLYas6ypr0M0oDhY8AfARVGZa7NP7NJKSgTrFYicxaIbLPE22sBTTnSdSVuNjBZkSnNP5eggqDmoftuUzzQngw4_fkedKVVCOV-ALGT5Lpe87bSdvB3JfWv3O5XaqJdglspmgPJUVKaVKvb2xnuDADXkwXNtxzEkjNgaMeyDTIwgUWC_JhFnJltaxg1FYf0y4lbgVqXZBU1wW-bvvs_I3taEHKxtazxk=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 13 April 2019, 10:43 AM
It's out!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/PZwkhoktnZiPym3SYdAwiJinzWAVtPB-umqldeJBaNEMrVxpZQ5C-nC-LdIIKo0IFZB6gse69lrLdPJtHu6em2W54vbViYYaalUH1LFkO60qtHZghIkPAYRyk0647qdDQlFJGrAnIYrjozdryFfPs5AXUUI307CKC_VPIz6dFTxnyB3hhfyQIskP3UbTYUrczMqnbgucDSdNk1KeFI0l8CTsIDXdKDR5-oY5MkpZfDpE-bu5wimb3w4C-g7Za6o6uRF7ut9GZa-n3Xx6hYpokhusapkQ2VyV3-YfO34kRCK2UVcb9KrS2vyKjQRIh3jYjfthFkFNE9cRx-PmlKPfpZjftUYs0BSdrMSsGg4i-BDIsPkdhN8Xdh7g-on1cXhoTH9dyVbDppTZEBb834Cr6rRCbrOr4Ki3ZNYva_qNGZI7oGVsjDeAv0pBGPh3gcEFSwMrG9fZqmuO-2Wenpgafx3QJLE2Pb3Bp9d7cnaw0mZgOnuitpoWyteomaoHLkM3661Rru2DD7PNwajj7RWHRWRUPEU39d0q0OBZY4IBPcX2QVQKCc4fyicWvJPQRZj3jVpK-pw9jxva1hWsuZwxyZmmHOtXKj99Rz3p78gL-qGjkuWTnApMXAro-aDam-bgsW9qyuGqC-cVoew-CFBZrlsrjjexbd0=w800-h453-no)

I got the rear cover off. It had been sealed with this strange sealant that squished down to practically nothing and beaded up around the inside.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZGr7zKJ55eqQYio0Mx0z6_jLcG30kGyAP1N7nS_Xch-a_CWOmod4C1dI_cl24wmunxSwNDei8sLorCLOkquTLB21snYMlTENDAmOGUhwQw_S2_POjG9L4Bjfy1UuayV-hnDW1hc8jts_D1DFz6mXZtMtcMaulF9W7Td2fhDofomZPjZ-Qw5hCREkr0YiN1A5-0AgtfvumVU3ZznrX1SOwPjM6paTyt1XYjxLPOcdU0cI-zkfU2Rw-e6e_GHFYY2t-9UW03fCw8x3MXqaxBvZCjQirX3vIKTEOMSS_4hT8VnaT2UZ3XE1syrw6-tvecw67OXlvoIYVz6_QOLFv0ZSpXCh-qKbHzFJBSCojQvRMupspX3jotyzlQfbeFf9_I1-q9yLkDmJpTU_unjHqvAm56VuOwfh3FqO0Xlr2LQ_N6FkEeuW3x9ww6xLiUxvpcpeMQDHKW5xwvqOwIGCqI309MTP74VxXHyEq4-3rOHK2H2uWCQlSAWzg2QDdtPXAXf_j3JeUPFXq1i_lRaUKEbHoRbQs-TQnvLehEUgWQfQPYCyIMvAoW6IEtutN9sNwProLGxuOcprRmTaT0bEXRbTr0ekYb8TzB4_XYWs1YfswjNcMNePLkU0ys_KdByiyBzS6JHvB-Z1iOeqE57-8AItfNPMCCIci3o=w800-h453-no)

I grabbed the clips securing the axle shafts with a brake spring hook and pulled them out.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rrQ8qPQccCCZ65TaOtdB8O4CyyceFgNDOauXWsbiJ1fsJPTpv8MV3um5jF6wEyX01NFtX-KT0EBqsZdzepTwMsX7sXBHaeUfxUN0pb1SBa8O4M19X2AdStsOvxsTwbQLTBOUR0rBZKiJfIxEp90DTE6leK9dqtkoO78uYzaMxZUvqZz73zS-mTONv57-PwUmks44-gEXDJOps7qwwga2zTWXHABcC-GosXabIJIc6kFzSUrsoitDpxmxVICF_bPtjFJRpCVQniGWE0vFoLnn9qoiO9kTdVOxInHMSZqBqMnunwFaJv47Cf6Q5XNX9DaVMMOdBKZ9TTFyGXG9oBtCu7rVkDW8Dg1rLfkl7Uz0l93m4QxSaqtGxcIyzI5e0ZK-hSyH92mE6Wf1wf0YtRcO9pCnHr1cpdi6tX5Q5Cvm1bca5ns5bIeSG2uAnSaEVsqNTcuZHxKEASHmYLI3pPlxOP8UggbF93x-DUJftTgEms6Xl3hgCNbMR3kWoYDnUJD-EbsfjJc1egX6JYPYiv-HSjtSXZaZMWVqiiafWw65eFUu4uO7ywHRpIUprxzEEef-anz7lDA4SBBLruLW7Xsxkcl_2fi0mA6mIqlIyIuFpcll2pwFs4kpjL__fuY-jHCulTwCgiCXgM4ruk77HMzAFF0T22sshWU=w800-h453-no)

The axle shafts have shims that need to be kept with the differential and used on the replacement axle shafts. The sealing surface is quite worn.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/cegLOlgnapYaIsY7hM12JR376qnccAe_LCowJ1QBRY3TlB09wb_Ka84FS-we5aJv3aGsbgUNfU0BlsyB8YW5DbhjfJnyZ-D2iOol3Ga0cJJ_AcK0PjtnRIh5k-EpPTic6vFIISzBPpzpHj3C7lwGVQj55_ynp_6wzz7aa6JroXIpCu8ugU_djkuVldHnXaXWW20y8nvsBD4lZ0CIpACto9JveA2I1XbNCjTMS5n3ja4EJ_Svzsdk9BampN4hIzh-HGW7oGHk6spgw07k2NXPAsCB0pqe8KBDpIXbBnkpeLmuWnmZbk-YnWEeraWiF0nyxK4m1BeLPCmMUpCMTj3sz1BQahxhENh1miouAG2l5R__fAXCrc-2GwA07kUOJPFKrnjnNEQ8qGA15AiRtI_yrGv4XnK3kX_vOrLIgiLSmyuFgKV1IFlmySpxbKDBWQ_QJ-YtgS_zPOS2Y7SAboZkkYVfmdT24opMnGC6pMXAOssgfdACMBtvtrr70aLpvqmmzrxpWgqfWrnms-CFsXtgbG3bbaKZHfRfpuG8x700rBDmJowBn9kFKI8R4Ft4-r4wtRh6vyOH8WelxWIyH2TRovLuWTXibaunPcEcMHDkGGAGFs8_eF2XKrujJF2_stOMjAyREQEI6RKi210H52bJi3jR4g3wVHQ=w800-h453-no)

The remanufactured axle shafts arrived and look great. Oddly, all the boots have little tubes pinched underneath them. They must be to keep vacuum due to temperature changes from sucking in the boots. I'll inquire with them to make sure this is correct. They now pack them with moly grease instead of oil, so at least oil leaking out won't be a problem. CVJ Axles checks them for straightness, inspects seal surfaces, replaces ball bearings while not removing the hardened bearing surfaces, and installs new boots.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/G3A93XtHg-1wIXpSN9N8r1TiRluhJW-YU1Il_RtjyytkxHw4siRoT0VVsUSXhVgkIo2JAbm2so0KZ-E7REHFsu9PXhu286ryWO93cbGx7a-Hro9EpQSg6nqFZGG-OjT3MsmZAoOVnUW5yWgR-KS-spxWlK2hgk0no0iPeg-cYoQJwOdq9FBPyPoUywYlUePiFc8oL_otfE-VPYnEJSsySQ8E1xp2o3t5-DmF21klEnWRk02z0o78atxUqiccVwWwWU8MIddhf4DOORNuqM_WwZQMOOrMVO2bDwfi31CnrmLAfuWw3pBEUaxIpo1hEPaQKEZinSytAm21VkX79xkIyD9wSpUlLZ-HL_RAjD8nXbMAdeZYwgbeUoONLuoJDQD7QoLnclMylZUW6QaSGgZcaqIZU-rsnHUG9PbGy1h3BCf_UkS_O2yAundbJX2ZkdxK0UUaYwUhTabCIKur12J3Yl-k4hOu2JGXuKSakW34F1iu3nIOASClM-5CDQ4Elrkn7BHjrqXD6cAVhaqYgCYuDkZVJqH2U5xFFM_YzD8o9jq_7mP8QVjPYkQoC4yrCEnPTldgqvLGdSjaSAFKgD0WTYbcloz_UfU5em9qKNMVfyFA0MTVF3yYag2XyyewzgM6YmpHJSySqA2deTpTRooXeCXU8SjE0qA=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 13 April 2019, 06:43 PM
At this same time I was replacing the differential pinion seal on a 1960 Ford F-100. It turned out the yoke holder tool that fits the Ford 9 inch axle also worked for holding my 300SD's yoke. Getting the staked tab of the pinion nut bent away was tedious.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/BsiGi4YDknkf7LZcSYrZgs3X0adrrZDNZIrLXeaAV9_JLOHbXsHLvy9YCYTYlQIwTT1bazhUra8gfmmM127y_44WP8mCSVYoS27WpnHN_FlPGybltvTTjeopi4AgaI3MFRznfZXOdQUyiOlpQuufPrEF78GlI4B7PeGaV775p0_5SCcqeXOFn1eMQfP-vLBAtToo4wLBDBQqWGaxsqknvYnjQ60I9muPozkAsiM0mpWN5GdAysVJd1ET_AwSgN7sDKBDPAJhtleFA45bfXHt777AXNlkPZ8TCCI6xuIsStYekko03oqoNMd3rfCdybyjCISR6AEwPLrskIMmjZQv9MWEgbHtwkZ93oTMR85XSdGYXDVvb_0YyZfKsVJlw7cALK9YJrFdKE3Hs7PDUDpbRVi3y9eH8ku5jk_ymEGXG2QavmEdPY1BmkOxyHb8tfyNd556YutrVwrePBseTZVBHNQLDaDoACovcghTK5cmgfKqiGk6BxC5iIp3d74bfeKMZ10b-_CpKumwGrLqcGmWUam74aBetGT1QYOzuWmOMQMGPXy0McxK14UFippeIsFFVb4OOoEDIirmNix419Sre884gk8CqtMt5QgDKebNkE0GDahu9XTlFd8H4n2O6InVeZLCp9tAUgi537bj0zQ6ryp0S4qO7ZE=w800-h453-no)

I don't have the four pronged socket for the pinion nut, so I used a screwdriver and a hammer. It broke free and rotated without much effort.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/72CTRdYdVRlUTuYRAesG3AMePMobvWWJlrf6eGQQoxshL2YboYLDjOiwFP6rVvRazGgZJZVnHATsp1W_K1cSJHcjpefLsWLmN2I4mGtyHyh90LrmlAQ-9OQFuHkXdl2Oc4tNO0Jx-09q89O6NQ21lPHUZxlXkplRN0m3wQgaP11Tb_bPWFEdyVM5N-H_9tWCAlDwdYv1uOGk7oOzMBjatiiFlyAKKNeQZ6udbeVr7mvZzhqV6TTyAAxPV_IuUmC5zgee0yCHOHrxmyPUSTADxQbQno3VzfyG_2Z6Kfema3oMfnWvVGYsTPOttgc95KMyjC2APfqPa2uX3wa7NtvlxIxmPQc5YDoSGx65lteGOCFvOnqk7XWvUmsKPFU4_6zyQz8ZOA5V6UF873kAYhC7qtvA1UfwaGqx7SH1rL2kz6gIiaOUvdHKW6q0ZGQt4dwd1K3h5GubhAXzVnRVL9uNaD9hlwxMaH5azR20UClS914sVIowi7LEC6TZIwCVvEtW2yqbgN_JwtQgT1pMA3tTJAqHuZDUVwE9S9yFrnBMKBVBD_7KdYlCKMSBgXDOnh3KyshqT4SbDZOc2A2zY4FzkDd1gKdsaAPl3ggKXxo9Cdj8RQgTvC6b8vdunSzSNcfMcIVSB0WvCpPv8gNz4XlVaaF2gycS4fI=w800-h453-no)

After I removed the nut, the yoke slid off by hand. I hooked the seal with a removal tool and pounded it off.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/OdVR-tSv_HHpXho4rxR20M6ZB5kWqP3hA53kyT8NBuuKw6iQeHyXKrxhYW0Eo8WKzmje1FzFKl37KOOOw4byXADmozCYeKo2R8MFHDlViNrqA1YlqOgI0sol2cU9DgfQGyuLv_5PvtKSpXI7c3dtT4s039430Bb2rx-bDIghBr2h2VNkH56BkTWoQo-8MVfOmbwj2oFOJCd0-JygcR5mLTl1AwRx6rmU5Qx3UAOttlK9AovFedvMkYNwXJ3zohc8QCB5z8W-nmXEVErwVoocaSdkvEMbdoZeDB46YhwHxZ8ZzzEu7dHXReeOc7gyD0JxVdTD_9ODf5Dnomp793qIrAI6SwZw8wbM_zBeVQwfz2WJXITy1V34MWNmjR9RX4sNni7S_YSBohgYeVtpUgqjOyoHxB7GRZPYic5uM4a4zlHfTdPeaufiaS4nHBE6KhSFA3QbHV_JTMPyXxTRXtoS6gygNXIOu9oTBZXDoT9rEVDtxtJQ61Frhb4o8xd9nt1O302fhvKbqBqLOFnqTt77y-yrnHfp7_B3TZ_89_OcNI6yFJ-c-eDPGgcEgeApljgAlayFadUzDkFRPaDs_d2bNpWQkRjyGmXPOsw6AoRP605udtcfPh9BTSo7YFYRyoU7caLEcesT7POqqJfAwl3ZhMuHFumG2GM=w800-h453-no)

I was relieved to find that that sealing surface of the yoke had very little wear.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pPSxPjU1vc_OXatJ1D4lde4QR_xRhRYmbFWM7fBUaY2N-WDlQpObaq2TAsxTJ0DdYuEGip9BGfUrjTMAxpywk6jqG6V2bR003L0MsMAfHM3WCPpx8MzLXyBtccrXjKJ2u8TU1O9rR5lX-fdvwohHU3cSXehkx-Lpk3hk8a1l3CDBI52BKJeIhyVz5OSggrm4LdxvwaAyrfWKnSKhtQXzdJ-FuQpxu4wZl0NIDAAx3834AKZaFobxv7hp8mzLM5Jp-vWIBuILxjnczaCQ1oJOJGCyiN3hDlA9xtzqED5QadSFGhRHvHAjXkpXq4YKZOOExfcayer4ZX3tYiio_guyoqp3SLCrrywJ1GB746B2B9LXAUyc7pJx_kASJgPWgY0DS3mbErcL1x5yE1frg36U9uO3Wh3WqPQJrzKyDAtLpXk8eXVVGE5ZBBKgfWJPyFSrbbpxMObXw8hgYLwuyksUllO23FuKACRBL5oQxpvbqsIGuLXmXRTK449MiAcl9hoDduQ1YX3acs0Ta-IB_D3gZa-7scQQYo2YrwETlPOGGnJrV8gojW9iV6uNNv8AWik7WmQODkWDSMxpBHWe8MvDhdln--yIW3m9sxsFfzEm0vDtNlVUYlGSjWX-a4CL7uvWwV3vwKFssKWGRMGkTsnTneXG6Z14dEo=w800-h453-no)

After running sandpaper along it radially. I was left with a little groove that was imperceptible on one side, and barely visible on the other.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xWuOwBFYvaWqxN7gTx6m94orfhmNopOjIfIJmoHVoWSU_hZBA_XQJAlSbWajHQfgV9af9fxFjFet9twyko_us_4AyA0a51r0ngmezksfznM-qorxreFKTUUq4tUudh7MYPavli_0mzdiZiOF0zVshKqSi28e2lH6JxoKo5H28I2G3GUIrBoaTcDpiZWxSag-2vO32aqjxfwgSgnoPkD0TE5_9NOTYChCvLMSw6wvfycMzuOoFDA-IRnaiRk-nV5c9D5aCwr4YaZX8az2wQ4XqA-huv4ZLrRbXdXucv7P2Vb6LlvsXV1hA2onE6aN27rrDH8CDHtEK6ppWqykYreDMxQpk41jT43Kk06c8WRTutoInmVaJ5sTkvg4n86oRD7NcKwX5bbCsILT7EVkI5lsZCogo9bEsj1ZELxVSxIlxfMyY_HmvDoioTXyU_LJKdinaaUKeJKblsmZ_n8EYIXYNi4J5klKh5dp3ZMd8CWmQWH1Mnt8u3OS1Yy22IShpC5t8CClehwXVIqGi_7JW4pdGMIvhgPr3fSVJWPlAEj77KGE4HM-AORGIBcslsy3Nt1fJdP2M0HGhA7FIM6xqyNCKGCdSeRpimja5acU_2BiQrawEgLQyghArTptNORO8R4O4Ld8O7eEj7faseT4IatOay1jDXTHk6A=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 13 April 2019, 07:14 PM
Because the paint was in such bad condition, I used paint stripper on the differential case, used naval jelly, and cleaned it up so I could paint it. I installed new genuine Mercedes seals.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kCaA4M0mQ8Xs6Mj0FWAcqk3FH76IBUl6W7au6llJxyLvsuKjqbsOfwYPW4umpF9UgiB58YFj4Fl9gb0LZCsvU9Hc1zPC6Uw3Va8zin0puOr03PwS66n5YtsWgYNfvRt5CDxnwbnvw1tVXXmpqoxOEPFnopvdmGmUQbG03r78ZW0DSuRIwYPW875e4uOMp6ewQ9PNo6iCC5iVwmAQzrfg_LFe-BWgKB3uvWeEQorXYUCB2viFX4CjCs-A2jIEe8PLsnE9Sr4xqfgI_W3bvnAU2b0zpE8AwriAh8PeZahP97mxIDh8H99ZRsZgM5e45HnoQkrO3AB5DDTcXvBP3pxmeEdIVq_5EX5QdwmD9Ng0wO4tqntQJcBAB4B_iE1vfRhi5bJQjuk2eQgFsaiy2UHDXwpEN-yjW4VGBccoN5CXvdBepHagenpCoxrCr1kwsRjs3d9m7WAwQv-j9WjefGrvl5de1MIUMHiGyyXeif1H8zk4mmkBgBT_BqtQEWu9G9z92S7lLt0lm9QudD_SNRsxAMOlJKlieqkRAEZCZ-EbRoy6py4aTJjzoYBW3UYcC6lARkAUDog94BCCYllD2OIJEFtCvDEN9uv7aLFnDGMoa_TadWDzrh6kWkL6mWcjo_8XwSQvDNPQLfPoBzW0O9-tJvTRWn-jV5Q=w800-h453-no)

I painted the rear cover and yoke with Duplicolor Ford Semi Gloss Black engine paint.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XTh69g4mY1Nw-MZRTLAKtI-BqpVOLTdulRJmDTxq21yIxkKlEw5OG4XJUkw7dI1IHTywe8VZrKucmhE8FqpzPnA4gbCTz1fN3YHLlhsBBoo_ppuOo7Dn22asOzcJ3ei7UmfJ8jfdyqy7cYvPLNLGAFcqrpJ81NErUVpBzSCWxebhod0koIJF7rUL2lQ1MrEcJOkEgAmSc2DlzVUJ2-JM8NSHFnz5EeiI-zMQl9gmWvtnBzh1xwKQ5IlZc8MWH263CwFTAx4C_0FZ3Q6yZa717MK--y91xAgjgbI-2S4bdWnuSl7aX-WG_9m9J9p3jdKosaPlpyuRE1NFhNCKeu2qXElDRBgvQ_21Ikxql7vHpd-PsaPHqMTm-WrKDujgZur_-LQW-b00S5mv4fESZHwjqgDsmdNYg3BYJxCmq07TqvWkClExpPOy-t6wvmqh8fgyPj0pWoIJegm_oSfmbw8VdFtDLLC6fHH0s2Ds_ilrjIV_prYe5qgAoc9umXHIJb_6X-F3lswsUxJzTa8JS3rXZtarzy_iIy8B6jY93BmYol1NLU_5B5gGq0iMBpnJlMbCInYj8_RLwzLDxxtHMP5CqjtE5TVSEduQZuFPa8ptBif8RNDUKQB7RanNDQYvkBs87k1x_lHPvJC8_WkmXFWjmnDrUILS9pI=w800-h453-no)

I measured the pinion bearing friction with a lb-in beam type torque wrench before I loosened the yoke nut and got 25ncm/0.25nm/2.2 lb-in (which is almost nothing). The factory service manual states that used bearings should have 50-100ncm of friction WITHOUT the gear set installed. Then I got the same value with the yoke removed, so apparently the pinion bearings had no preload or were possibly loose. When I set the bearing preload, I factored in the 25ncm friction of the gear set and set the bearings at about 80ncm as I didn't want to goof and overshoot the maximum range. The pinion nut gets cranked down super tight and then the friction that it takes to keep the torque wrench smoothly rotating is read. The more the pinion nut is tightened down, the more a crush sleeve inside compresses and the preload on the bearings increases. If you go too far, then you have to resort to removing the gear seat, which might possibly require a case spreader tool, because that's the only way to remove and replace the compressed crush sleeve from behind the pinion bearings.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mi7J7qX2547v-F69Dc747N8itIswRadgR3Uc-ixjI-dYjA8K2ypVDjcd-rLV3IIoGVRxgjLrA1ivv-HxTC33dD_fnpPIfdhVtC29nYfRDn6KSpnqoJNv8_iG3rAYxMfkrtCilV9XghKVMkkApMQLop-r3jzTuKHjecyOd3lXiFDaezMbZK9SFakAFiyHBlW5zENy1kjilbah2Osdn_tDuq8za5AxAMJHKrw4hi4RNEZWmLY-EuOG5yZv3xgQx-vhLSFAdqVHP-1fgEFGpDnaEu0cX_s8KmNXanQVdG7_m3rmGNXgxfmxgIP89Cfq5QGx419O9ccBN0jY0GWDmm8Y1Mdf9pYRVtgGFQktIqoQvKiI5CmKLegPZNGdGMc-FDHMTR26Da6-9nkB7OkKlYo_49CafTdKotK7wECEVFcL0xj9ny1dVBpLS2rRv6eCVr5GJ3JMqCqD-T1Fqlun_dsunqV1Mnj3G-8FJSJA-xU6GJvgfV7krIgLruQNIrX_bXQb1vlpaIRV8YvGXye8OmSSWhSkX31rS86AuCdF3bXzan_MlPIruE-clRRN9DYuoJIcgTo9xBmrF7Hch9151PmFBJJQDUr4FjaO8Cxl0he67jtChVFAm63AwA0L2AGAladVWKmQ2KUp9Cbon5M2uynn0lOWcXu6Igs=w800-h453-no)

The new 12-point nut got staked into place and I made sure to put sealant on the yoke splines so oil can't seep out of them.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7FmEP0pNN221S7U23vKwuMonRbJecLEOqBBxhVtCl_HXQ7vrWP-KQs9ixZfWxEUK7Ye3pTPYZtRpTqXAYO7wKnOjvRmZPkAbiNcLU_0PIlqSC5U71eIZCXq0bBR8wmcLnwd7r26cNDaJFvD0QjlAerJ_OoWprIGEzEiCXIvSyutgcWUz4L0P0qWK2I0ddX_b-WxZjmMulWIWrhO4YuWv8OmP-aKhhmTwzhK93CxyXK7qw53i9qVYsyB_TSTebdecsnPS2S019bgIvSfDTtDIP-R5GzkTH-IeXpa-o3ziAjXcKTQmdQf9oTn8sKbTLvM34cHziAkPrCfO9pE9YsNZtJiGYcu2YfONKhidd-RbJeeONzwTibx4m1DsMPZebhcEEvfzg70WwCHbGAX32C8bti5aSyw62ofMFZLRK61pBDbCk1YRbXVtvKECiOKPLiYLo-i0iMfm8iIi0wV7M_3rkZws2nRCCED4D9Dpqu-Z6NxOOrWKIV1j_uRUXgH2mTpmn2CaJlgFbkBQ-2YIP_y0hJeAaT4Ps9R-o1b2AotZ0HJNQmmeuFxmnkxxDPGsh3hDg18ulJ_D7xGGYOPYndRQGYHZmv1StjyRNK3TK7jYA-FZj5R3AzaNyqaEIEi8X3FtHmK-jWydEDgjeQ_2FXYDWyzWplSFEM8=w800-h453-no)

Sadly, the German-made Lemförder flex discs that I installed eight years ago are cracking, so they must be replaced at this time.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dBqOMPpDLha8XwM_QdvWUWr_55XuiysvIK_oS8Z32PArUmadxDcyr0qSIPmiGmQs8qASChhUs-y07daATzR6kQMzqNqyFd-S7oEsO-lbsIiVqt-HOMAS-3wJYEkiORnZQTiu3el5yUwGx-ElqNnKEgjSuWx14NuDdTwwhl54842RfQnub7zQuNxCM9ad1u0sowsb1BLjMMWxL6OSmjbeun4Pl7D0EkRhuP6mQsE8ffewelCxtXOqBQG_ZdvHCXzXYuYZlKjJuxZqwMozPFpHsLnEI93EXT4i9tvWr6BlMnEJa_WpYoMJYN_nD9K7gLYLt1xilEP3hrMknR9YC630a38AT6Ncj3XQHdbwgnCid9igC8SeLptr1lVdmppLQ-YY_U-ESLuZp92n7CB1ecaFFxVY7Ludov09rFsOwH0iHQODmRNy04VshocZHHcU8RT-EFTME_xZMoqAhupttvOKpCEaENHLT9N0ucLJ6NeQOpsXocr-47zILZCCp8FfqNrsiZ5WMoan_i-dLhmnnjEUGZCcRTYgisoYCy57dFr4ntZhoDLKtAwV-3z6Uv-WhtNyR4zc8HZfDR0veowhXkyy0Djcj05szl7NnQ4F9nZo9ORWpTptTp411QnSDexsE70P9z17iRjr-2fo4a5nFZfTZdSWY6myl4Y=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 13 April 2019, 07:32 PM
I marked the relative position of the two lengths of driveshaft and then loosened the coupler with a 46mm wrench and a large adjustable wrench.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/AuzC0tluXAxLF1t_PctZqfFkhjTZQ2709LWlTfmlDNGN6QUNubAOyxzAs50-_vEHA3UTaAYvtgfJNkmaWYtZnYtfvow5X3ZectcD4reoBt0F1z-RhjPzSKL5qC2ITJqCVLoNiZDoek6alOJEbio0GUluCi5UZ63sIJR8L5-F_XIYbEA42AC7Ae3xdDEfjK-Jz2YQ4ee25GaQuUNFqdppSehJb10tb0J57ejxmXNSH7nH2Er9Xn6kyqbRyXwHgJ0SpbKboT9lOD7f8OKRetYHmd7-XngRFeGiMN8qeUk6hBRGJlePATRHV8B6qocrptFHu_Yv7T6kcUoBhh1eN_ZpuvnSl4l5WMl-KF0rI1e4EErS07ZqSmdtGu11YrzlDRxp0Uc-6q0uBT42TGk5-ziLkDYOQEh5IGXNx_arT68CQffYeBGBuoD3LkDZGEs35-kw5lZWrbG3LgqZXDVpG9CzbB8bNo6a5yZwypgHbNNyypnQNO44KH3oG9lJqoAPzuSx5XTU5jGUjfDQZm_zIgLtmSm0tRv_H-hTJR7uS9q9wC3Wf56NqaHjlOHArtvRqe7oq2-_r_7HG-S4eLdbCFCG6aGJybSHJEtPrtvNRJivn5JmNkH8GSnxAzlPp4ZXRsOI2lcamMTWWXCL8OWIxDeaNIgQoLxAZoo=w800-h453-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TUt9VyUVm92nsIQqeJRMNsh29sbFXnn_98_rl8DSel5RMIz0GaREnGFOp1biMEArV-quQcALpYKGQVFKkztGPJDY_nAIaoOslobz0zaiUz2gE8n70xoClQZlEE2psUZ5DdpYFsr1BisMvNPN8Csrpk8HfOTIhQm1Htmtnt47_xTmvPTjH5yndg8iIboQRdz-YpsR4wKIHY82AnnkFQUd2ZJxF4Iczs_56OVwcw7QZ-Z6mcrGIyYJQKJC7d0E3NdGRhA3NqvHVAwf24yUFJTh4wGf9GDzTvW2xC5VMsojXffXBoQt2qBjR_QLSHopi7DGy374ThiPL23vUIOlyzTkG27N1KJ5H1EKHidNzirrG4obmjDFsvEOdXBT7TZMrwz8gDYcfZIhjp1feayxWMyE7d6bxYU6adlhEQ_jKLX-EW56SlJKGoJ-DRB_u-QLO2PbaKwCztS8HKdbtyEzeyCs_Mb6SPLkCdNb1AwqYZvtKSXOceb2onR2PWVlJLJy8C6P6Q1NqtDm619_6rEyomjMlNDNL-qKud4v_muve9IjAIKQ0Uk6yXasb-zrNkw7P5_OM1HiOwwSUTpq3D9k-HO2Xc_RVBBSGfQajQPRWNgeLNZJV4U4lffo4Z1J98f0i4ySo4n-ZLdzeBgBkFHqHr4_aG4pJGaUOP0=w800-h453-no)

There is a circlip that must be removed and then a shield.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ylDFm53QRVSL-a3IuqJARkMiX_SoJuvKGjrk2XcBDXb96sShmCwyVMgDx0R4rr687rwLiIe1VAMWbp0anE7huc_OG_2Z1XWJy7m1vcK0rF32nyPTfAyw4Zk-Gwhx1cXK0JaCV_4BXXF_JWad5qCB_VSqwx7bEHtyB9XJdZRbAEGNVW_Ty_j-mbDP_4gf_VITA-XWOIXbIla5fMWeXOAbhNHXvgFxuHmTqEZ_g5WsP7DNFGQSH1Goi_lpkU4nXVTo60zpWANThhEqQjcs9SsTy7g1Pai-V4tKTEVaZhmTCnN0yHAFQNWbzCFFtAsUymWPyFKwpK4ncD0ZFclxBL2EwWTRHJP7Hi3MWOmaQNWSvVfTn4F9EcqVeWzVEFnY6iedHv0sYSc1wpduiq3uYGp66Cn1XEa1pOaHagGobF-Y8IXrSFspTu4bgcPNbq4ndMsKSFEubUersuSzV4esZCf_M8m9O5KFc-U5O4Hm6gzSmBOt7tERRb_eULIbpAebaKoTp5Zw_EnN6__wkLGnVJm4R6TuYkJ5fa7cKSQm5y8abPrdPx58vP1H1dx5zhRrJoihq_v-TZQpEUiyXEqJHSuCMwTRIxn2RqQ0qDcK44sJS4GFlpn2wddTKrCLV8UqsCAhvH5e0NMgjtp7rhT6Qeoi9lHdC888fv4=w800-h453-no)

The center support rubber was cracking.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qnvqfRhja95mhvJcXW7xh3lu7cD7HpK7RMD47GvBZcCctscqUA005hByupZN-wzQI_TewX8bhnm4DMzk7ciSA0N2nxxAkTnoQBhq-EVHeSgQvGXC4t-v-LAHDDXzMfssnjMRFTJXBXf1yjmfPUJWLxrAmyP6prgQVAHt3vS4m9-d7HqBFbfbA2Ae9te39ozRjqvfjdx78dhWY1YRjTNvcpYxJHtPb0KMEXYROnvGTha0k1hQ1wmQ4sXYdD2whCfUGiOS44P0HoFgO1C9bZHZhaQRxNG4dJtXwzC83tFR5zxAj-14umfnmUIQ5AHPl6kmYhfyEYdSO_d8FfLkTel0UEz-FLUdXvY5A6XGuJUfqoSyNGKsuukA2szAGNzK7Ep_bBorC1_D_F2uGuvV5VwDoiqcoTsYoujEcYG8C4HVkVpWMz-8H922xe7DVz_DYGuXyl7IsDnxYoovA26VGMrtf2m3AaCOEEhO_m5ASf8pErYPl1jCVUfulTF4-0WpGpkh6TOSWgrOA1IPjxzGv2ZRayyNFT3dSv9Xkz2nB3K4nG-8tGnExQ9qNjcCFHTEBqko9Idn9peV3wvX3tuFPsDZHWLCveu9AObLEZinKtVvaGrR0bpUZ8Krm32i3TmPjGIMIwZMbifgI3bO-wqVgIBQPiXSQDNtTho=w800-h453-no)

I tracked down a new genuine Mercedes center support (part number 123 410 10 81, made by GMT), which wasn't easy because they are apparently no longer available. But, ECS Tuning was able to get one in after a couple of weeks. It was ten times as expensive as aftermarket, but all the brands I could find seemed to be made in Taiwan, China, Thailand, or India and I don't want to be replacing the part again anytime soon.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vH2QaxDlHkzQQH8nTWwzRyOXgCzMEEWOrOpxoN8tRAQEyAt98NsxRiaikQR1RCDMTm9PRPJY0AphsuSbUVFcGf3SH_cfOYs-awRlXARKxwgqNszxKJIWCuEjGdjLe6Ys_0iju9E6qi4FOzf9Pm8GNbNxZIF7Zfm3x8FNX6-7BG2Y7qwgvPtB8rDPxm1pBKko-9a-mlQp7yO79Hp_Hwr1SJFWp26tn5KxyUlZY1usI5m3sLrC1coqr0rXMyrBrqaVk5LE7oJVSa6ehTCRV-hG8l6wF6MkN5LTTdiXecuz7UcPv3odPOUfKu_DSWUZ_-2MXBCbTtqXyfgqQ8AvS5YDjM0V_AQiHzuCYqoz4LnL36G-3JkYFG98tUvz_I1MfjrayKp1O1hi1sBfJCq0bXBVohG9qUr0Wha_Mna8wNJg1XLKBSo8eY79wPJdHpYJiJKI1V4kMaN-tGUq5DsmNYkjGYHrp-7N4owtGMimkiPo4gi37mxoNjWDU9GAfJCcLGl1aAyWYNJqt871oLg4TuyCUJmF2cd3w0N0vsXuhTTUqjEua-7eRcA8jxrqrH0wmPXGPor_VsbMHcg4xPYE933ReFp41tLqvY3rO8uOj-I5uUqJ7cravmjixmclG0ZQG89lxDDC5ymKg8UV9ftwq6DOSzr4AGWDMck=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 13 April 2019, 07:41 PM
Before removing the rear suspension, the rear brake calipers came off and were hung up out of the way. I placed a carpenter's pencil between the brake pads to prevent them from accidentally popping out.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XZj5juu8sdDOrIi77A2dbDa4y9pXf-UKE5kqzEM5QrbvjziKiPFw3kvmGe15ZCYMLThkOQVKdMWF0unXypn5bwA99oxuUUbEnYg3lvhfbKOS1cgRkhawGI3pC1gVA6GZBmBqgBFkKyhNGAzsXk4v3P9dcyECC4hwnkIcMWWhJTKBsiTFTQhwXWAEVI8_f4thobc-AdXhd6ge1mrZoo88LvbPHoQD6-dHmVpFOYkrVpS6OpKDPKkL1kQUje-l_GVIFBp0DxGJs_PNcJ6Qmgt-U_rjZpVUB4J2x3w46TMATESv9XOcQf4OyAaLqea4Tj827rB8aYgFfWvcqlrn59djwAwGMh4B3v-SXT7f4KT5jBz9K2BEsMteDNTBjBIu9KuSXmOsBT031xSeJ8CnZMtX7RxXQX74-7DFvF_nqAGIY1KMxJYBG_l7BKNvF5ZGY6JsohHnuCcIFbxgeTydoqbLVEL7zfLQeKoupmmjS0otljboAiKuEBEij2SulSHt0a1liRZYRKCQlsdlFL3sskMfXPpOedOd88GSMfBJaXRkvmIqWP2EcVmhcAcs6bLrff8qAbZtdWWg5sICAapKFUaVznMaxjjeeJSvkGmmIRD169wkhHDbKWDa9jIHqB6wW9T1oKeVLAB7SiyNokmdMiu3Fkr0j8XWSIU=w800-h453-no)

I removed the shock absorbers, which allowed the trailing arms to drop down enough to release the springs.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/YgeOYXcSQb25EgrqFvD85-z_RoemWh1_Me23edACcT6oIznlbYPiVOSG6OqwDM6j2mi8kfuU8AYeSqacl1V42tOZCOeF-w1ZEkzVwc45qvTnp8qk1DwL9HFZQ9O-eHswVh2zsSA-MpF-n6WtdnthyCjO0YpEg5A1oe3LoyL-rlC84aEULhblhtRlGK_4b2MUQ7kjdtF8PQ3Pv1qijgLuD7T_in0s5fdVSkCugoh1hvpJOJE1al_BVb5kaevS3f5FS4KQ0EUXYnIEZjPbxbZgr_TYeuNFSk1_Sh-SA1uu2XvkmadbnoEYvTy3cBTOZe6KwqifHCVo8Es4FBOzkAu6YeWC-OrBk0Le_tHTvjlyD_VAOZnj81Uq7Pdi2m1mjYYo9ICc6r35z9ejqOllTpEw2hWetiF90A9PF9faAK7-OgTRvtThnCrDG3uXDtQVGeY-yFd43VjjlwVEoUrA05LnOeILByIt2FhA3jDhbE_y4GDkjncwoA3lqqZKYF45mET91p_PLS8qPAjntIQvwKpA4yvCHKaAeEb01nyYfx06lG1ioF97edBNOGQ9GtNb1TNjUqhAFGNVhWaSH1CCXv6dfJ8ZrkC4blo3E92PDVt8ueNv1igm7RFcA3Pry7ULAOfPtZaGXGgElO2jjlZhOwOvyOLvleGxffM=w800-h453-no)

Then the subframe was disconnected at the mounts so it could be lowered down.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uH8rSwJYK48r00MstsjT-N7Schng_-B031JlLfYvynL-jzq_W67NUNwLpxK1aQft7anZCuJ7w1TNlqq8EP6osuFhS8PPYMnnQRhdoLw0oOCLEDUNOiKBdqgRhBOdCeG3eY2pvqQeErLxX5V_dB1Fjs570Q4AMhMEIb9Q4MBz0FNfrZIRFSl-nXr22ZLh4ZEfVwXSInUoQql28LxdYE2SMXV6DDstuLlf1fSRsW9U3D8ZHfW1A3JuMxqyxWw3zEP-kRN1I6SqcV9Pof2VzCmXQVtdWrL02HbDOcMLdMm68w1QMH12AtUwq3KMzf1kWrzyGr1kuMneKFB73iVSy-AbO8APNxJ-kIYfPeyAmvSinE4iEq1_cnV7sFgyAoS8M4wXw-567CJIYf4_GFnvrrWRTozDAdeqrIRSZUV_mINV977yPMcXW87E0EzjOx7c7Lh-MbvFQQMOg4EgIIGELnZlhmGkpItNtzBVHY7NVCy4R4zlm8aEWzM1MeDl6mndhKpsYc7TungczJfLfP2JePsL-hXqpRewJUrTWFbjMcPb256aH5AiCxcMMeHkp9yWLBtb8Z2I08gEm392EOCiYq1ALqzZ3RhtPl6W3Jvg6NHuOKQsJlUvK0QFE41l6cUra3SMrg7t33Xsb0s6vDdOtw2IakMVtp-01_U=w800-h453-no)

I put a pair of moving carts underneath the subframe, lifted it over the exhaust pipe, and rolled it sideways out from under the car.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/d2W2Mz4W055NWtdgIGrHQhRLESG2yUJmxQcjI1Dd4qvLlsEiXsDpNcWS4Bb5gw7KQXoOJbKUpPmu0TcTCu8F_7ijK83dQ3kmR-ZYFP00xsgMY9N9YKCoRPoNePba0cwKdlKbyhjtSf2f2DbqPo2FPHJYsIDYTRI9T4fM8xpg1agt9PclwhBQqFCN5PZPGgr6_tDr7g9AQv-OxBBlu4MJpeP-onBGHmkb_Rv0HSyr9kZXTSzdN0SKpavlcoSAAV20fdq4OmioqQwjkIBssQpNv-JdxarXGTAGY-dCggtlPNesEkxnW0bqItWOzcKnxDCmk1VGNWF_RmAhzPBHcSARUZ-VdG1gbg6PYdxd7YxuIqDAxatZCelOvQZpE91hdK2kbNsf_aKnogeMetoQCedsGRdnQXMPcNzIVdDopyZGHO-kEOhaNDljmObBVyNyTFSkgBCGWcwBvvTF25AUqfet0wNC5Tjx1RjY3-qwcuigId1iI8c0w6nOux_YYh0SgBq6BUNmVStmgBQwDkdj2-26tHjB1lf-l6bPjAHPgI9_CaOnVhBAAP-MCidNLtfpZgQ5F2Fy5JkTzhIJ0mV-IAQLaYUkeRXhOipzX_PTBToKxTZDePGEq-Gv-fUArJFvNPvnRCPCWSDf7ErYW5MUSoY5o26kUfDac60=w800-h453-no)

There's almost nothing left under the rear of the car now!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/awNNsj_WfrneSziYzcBygsDZO1-tGdlL0kiizjqjnkGsCF8fZMv3JOhcOkfgml4Br2XK_VoxmbhFiyHRjwCPtrHXn_cvGB-MJOB6yqQ4X6jP0aGTWsAhYLQaDbf8sJkdvoX0lOf5Q4vYBfYNjZxWPLTJIzCVqf8l948sfIPsFJzh4iI-xUnk7adh5yRNKlY7vbyPm51W293utIz8Dif7QlcGJIwV6tlzx09bR4oZ-s7euTzgaYtSKHf30G8dBsgHHt5UFJwxdwDv7oKYupQjSrL2oj37xUL5FEZEwfjzL4W89uPYUND6qcsibUZ9Pq0awzUNnhccoNSBtJbT_L7uPgvnJwnAuA_Zbzsf3zJOHoh3Q0lcHrm5hpMb2beaObKjE9f11JqIXejNgFg-5i8auQS6hKBbmDdoggp2qmiTR-MB0pDDSEJNYCCh3qG9sg3ao9tkg1d-YA3y9ghkvNVdw9pICpRfEmmyo8bo3crypGvCOFy0HlfdXMPOU3uZVfIRXeqbZsfy2demSltOI5WbJnrvS9q6XG-tLiLtVUgBjXrOYCKiY_jgrL6v-WP_NGOCKtQ03nD6Z-nUJqmh8fb2wY-Ex1RgXr-v9EUX6fb-l7bph-_YcHeU1BjQ8JV5NUNXDQbuSu_cpzJ7HIpcmXYwt1_v3RYgioI=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: daantjie on 13 April 2019, 10:59 PM
Wow well done this is a monster job!
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: gavin116 on 14 April 2019, 04:03 AM
Hi Scott
What a great effort! Good write up so far. The car's handling will be transformed when it's all back together again. Since I had my suspension done, its got that new car tight feeling, none of the old wallowiness.
And you're so right about M-B parts pricing... it's getting more and more out of reach for us classic car enthusiasts. It's not all that it seems either: I bought a new set of front indicators from M-B and they no longer have "Bosch" or made in Germany on the lens. They have no name, but do have "Made in Poland" embossed on the lens, so even M-B is sourcing out of Germany.
Good luck with the rest of the job,
 ;)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: TJ 450 on 14 April 2019, 05:32 AM
Great work. The diff looks great, it will be well worth the effort.

Tim
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 14 April 2019, 10:51 AM
Thanks for the compliments, and that's sad about the no-name turn signal lenses now offered.

I used a prybar and worked the subframe mounts from side to side until they came out. I ended up returning the Meyle subframe mounts and got genuine Mercedes. It turns out one kit is enough for both sides and I ordered them through a dealer which gave me over a 30% discount. I noticed that the inside of the subframe where the mounts were feels ribbed, but it might be that the old mounts fused to it and stuck? Unless it was cast like that to keep the mounts from popping out. Strange.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ugswOX2y0b2ZcuGlS-bahLvSjJmvM5Vgl4WWK9YxY2jiQiM3nnSyI03n-0_2VfKmlrPhWf2d77Ovt6TilNgvk8Qw_3cwSz9S5wCUo2OvkMJgjgQZJ_Uww7sxXtmldJeuTAPB2fjUDEMLLxk_xV4fLQTKIRQ_saQya2VRzXL13LR0IE-36yYRZM_ZOfhku8YRKyREmyOGblHGZ-gfvHdYyIIrMY9Yzv1I83F3eh0PfqIifJZVhCs4H7W5W_utA_lmTFGPUE_Ud_YgmwA9lQ4lyh1ItwL7FZ2-KF601c90ovPyv9w_S8vkMqr-DKuIxlX_F5XjW8SupXQoE-xO8Z0MhcuZlvio7ZgNtJh73SxQUu8BSPXKh4iBpW0s8thL_-wQ3Pfzy8miwcP1U3NLz6VnS_YVy7EKbRcP2KkmqH693CRrTqmiVt7-kA-07NZHcb5AMILRMv6wCRf-Ub0OvU04kJz2fjJwHzL8bfQG-xdsNUpuz_ifw4aWYzXBAbwSVhAnDUYAXWBxswsbs9IlXgWCekFC_qJvP4S_Tko-pp-XUTGSUs5wB81280t5bQySevzG02c8CZZFhSydETThcWDbTXWQT56s0bw6WC_0H2nMhsruAjod7eKe4aBIti1uvOp31zNjHr4PQVgfAXI5hB4rBo0PVJ341WI=w800-h453-no)

I am very happy that the new tires were tougher than the swaybar end links!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zveKlahIAGD_wIcXYmJUQl0FchFD6w8l8z8RvLEHqg3_fWLvafGqBH8qgDiMHBwTtdCYvPhR8ofopTG9L7ufeq_M-VYPEs3w1TB0T9lgaYEbzwyIY2plygWEYZWVKpvaFNkWUuuN2wTQtiIOFnreOl_9xd28x78YyF1_AKftzbpWlmj1f7y-I8wkpKDxS-yC66jwEKbSrSOcqExuO_ge5LBktbuP2Mc0KPdyZEQlefs7rgog553L1VwotDRTdyWOFel1wjMTmklgEH6uIsThnQ1V_tF0uMrZXcMr04eW4RhuqR--swUiL7yoGCB2IzUcKYiMaadjUSE8IlZYbF_D-oskZzpa9kpglugwNa6Zss6CtRboBZA9Ou3CEFC7IrRZfs67iQE17xS8RcRWzp9G_6U4-hnNCjpVQ3B63CXKvYGWZiER20_8V6mASgOoB0H90zqe-LXTvdpyVje5MuOvksSKA_Uke7qvJNCKCePgTrnk2HqgEHffjNRarwUAUnThJI2sTGVB17j1hbMvmUNm51f7iYC6xMnujthT9bJzxxEdSa_YwoaQAsDEr0c_CWAwiytNEKyHVIQI_fPpMsMNAMMIWbkNXpGo4dn8jsXBh1wvf2xWeZqHX04C8nTX-s_RcBi-XfzNA1Wnsz00kNSQo_ZjfYv_TqI=w800-h453-no)

I tried ordering new upper control arms from The Classic Center, but was told that I would have to get them somewhere else. UTn_boy told me that was strange because he had just ordered a set of them and Mercedes showed stock of about a couple hundred of each side in Germany. After talking with a couple of Classic Center employees, they told me that while there are plenty in stock, they can't sell any to me because Mercedes charges them $370 each, but the MSRP is $72 each, so they would lose big money on each one they sold, and they suggested buying them from a Mercedes dealership. This was an eye-opener. I guess The Classic Center isn't actually part of Mercedes-Benz.

UTn_boy ended up ordering some for me at his cost and didn't even charge for shipping, which was really nice of him. Unfortunately, one of them was a mess; the bushings didn't really match the ones on the other side part, they hadn't been pressed in fully, were crooked, and the rubber was rotten. It was really disappointing and it's amazing how it could have passed quality control. So, UTn_boy ordered up another one from Germany to replace it. Hopefully the next one is a good one.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nb3q1L5QgT4tQadUTJ70QVuSME07o49h2uGX8sA5Pq6GEMn1FMoi7ILh7UGwPX3Ft0yIC28UlyCOacJ98zLK8i5S_i2d0aBWEXt1CWRFQPk2pdEJzsm7olEZFpA6s2dCZH3PWvEpzEja7KshYEod7wpnQVl7tyVM0udDpYI9_XnMuSQ5yQcKoPaMuEQyEKiZlT1fgHNYMUCmyyo77fVe42b1VmJ9Kls-uj5cp2TbXi6ikwk-g7k9WsQlbRrBBns7_y-NkEk5mtyBfb8diRgq7FTQUsHxwU4K-MJ6OywG6HRX8pJRTzldBMmMpkqQwZoHWkaC5uYKLv5vbIDaiKdZzpUWXZYLeYwum8Pv1gD3KAynu9RxxFwACrIYe0A6rwVbRazFqpHfY3ihlS-6z0UyxPk7W28xd_hS0mlxQuSh5wIjStUINTyOzYjaJReTztwxt1QsvT7mtdtowKTXgDCGW-ehVzMKDG1RsB2Pg2YHgbVKXGc7XOW0iDyPxpc3M0WYKFaAbxFQZSuMfZ-58GbMj0638fLoK3YgWPZXh0-P-W2XX304f9dosE6m2VH797kL3B-nNdgtQg1M2hNYoU04gKf2K-ZwdzwJNUm7aNucfwQeBre29AQCDAKMIIRf_FaYduZ4WWdhDms4puiLUVc7cmY8aP70PSc=w800-h453-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Sc-jjrGD6gONbCwWNqpI8Iv43NLkNIo-0ereKqosa6RkuqvMA8fIx2QcLrdsi8Hf5R6CafHrRjB3hLPZc7Wn9l3l3K2yY3wW5qT79aUXsdmam2mtyksRiK7hRBy3atmIozshXp7vU1HOysS3-L1wAOhMS73fMti-Az_61VmvErZ51afMccyerJUu6HJIwkes3Ryeu1VpSl3pHMYLDqsB-9qcHGMA9ziJHyyahbOFFRZhcC4lbE49QTlUQNWWOKnHEY0JDK4ho9Y-_lH6cKr0QuCOO2q3-6oa8CaE9SxwXWpCWZ7HUs_2pL3IiXrg3HWYGV0KIt7hCpKGQwXwO4CYGw5WGifjGI2cZ7HjuY9TDQ5m89tes1G8AYRAt1dByu0PyFOX8_ggw0S-HC-vxNF1VOlKXp6ccIh5Kwfp8tznTmoOPbl8MNZ0fcj-IYLKQYUehGh3hRs2r9cjDrciO9bYZ0CmoMKycdGwHDOzcNt-mMEmhFvlw3WdbQeykMlGa2fExiihj3sm_bfqfkSSt33v15niayDzJSTtd3Q3RzeiFcsm3ZpPee0ICe94xtSiDymbx8l7KYtSF99fHOWV777B3OROzPRdA7TiJJ-Qj8l1rDPRJJ7uJOac3xJ8lgbBX6dc8TBgUn7t64hdYwBkrSDIFF6RzK5la7k=w800-h453-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dbiZ6Cm-9vww2qTvm51wVPhGLtyqqCdbdlifIEuj5aZLS7ZMsi8QOSwR5GDi8T93gRBs2xR9VFGBIEocPBrad7MOyb2u2cbJolfLcqeqb3qdFG1LBcTsdjN4Zl6kNJ07NgKp40WRA2sUvlIOGpPgp6BeFHo5bQxsrQZAUjuwQT0dIOXKS6GNu-ryE0Bu4X4QkeOm8cpFXgc-KhRSj9nH0jAU3dVHYiXwTcXC8KD93WR4u1qO5PpNReGKfWxrWcfbDKNq4AFkZGe0bVYvu_zQ-7AIw6fapHfGaHxfF_JhEeG9VKUI0O5M4loQnUmQ10j4NVhGTjB6zCzD3fxRnh9Pm6hT2_k9PKriPlj8BPNwgVE6cjB2vKaQY4u_klOHY7IVzlK-PnOT8s7x1DGMYewbUkxJkpljxaMAlTgIL1TNgqnnQR5h06Bvb7ltV_NRppC89Fg3JdCw6t8HC5xGVb0QVt1T-lRi7yRoPvGxryxQCgDpiXhO9txm4Xl7-kZlcROXCbk0M0e6VZwAkT_gqB1sO4fagF8fuep9INhzJP3k1IueNDC4l6mg7H6XdEPnjBIi_9w3yfH8xMwPgUV24F6-uEZDG0AbfjkKzvK_eCEf0bapNg8raITpBvxbNGrw2aaB864NqHHGw1AqCuyeMe59d9J3zUMFIIY=w800-h453-no)

At this point all the parts I have are genuine Mercedes except for the Turkish Lemförder drag link (which is no longer available from Mercedes), German Lemförder tie rods, Thai Meyle lower control arm bushings (only brand available other than Karlyn) and Thai Meyle front crossmember bushings (only brand available). So, I stepped up on all the parts that I could except for the tie rods and saved a little money getting highly discounted rates from an online dealership. With the way things are going these days (being charged $75 per year for access to the online parts database, online dealerships giving double the discounts I was getting with my MBCA discount from The Classic Center, and The Classic Center not selling me parts because of some weird glitch between them and Mercedes-Benz), I just might let my 11-year Mercedes-Benz Club of America membership lapse and use the funds I would be spending on my membership toward paying for access to the online parts database.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: ptashek on 14 April 2019, 05:31 PM
And you're so right about M-B parts pricing... it's getting more and more out of reach for us classic car enthusiasts. It's not all that it seems either: I bought a new set of front indicators from M-B and they no longer have "Bosch" or made in Germany on the lens. They have no name, but do have "Made in Poland" embossed on the lens, so even M-B is sourcing out of Germany.

They haven't been made by Bosch for a very long time I think. W116 lighting parts were marked as discontinued in their online catalogue before I've started my restoration, so at least six years now. Unlike the headlight + indicator lens unit, they don't even list the indicator lenses as discontinued anymore, they just don't list them at all.  You could still get them aftermarket and from MB back in 2013, now it seems it's MB only. 

I'll try to find out who makes them now. It could still be Bosch, it could also be Magnetti Marelli. MM still make parts for W126/W124/W140, and have their automotive lighting unit in the country, so who knows... It's unlikely to be Hella as they don't seem to have any manufacturing capacity there. Could be a local vendor too.

Rest assured, quality will be at least as good as "Made in Germany". There's nothing sad about these parts being made in a country with some of Europes most modern manufacturing lines. What's sad is that MB will charge us the same price, while paying the man on the ground at least 4x less than they would in Germany.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: ptashek on 14 April 2019, 05:39 PM
I guess The Classic Center isn't actually part of Mercedes-Benz.

You're quite right. They are a commercial unit of Daimler AG, the parent company of MB.

Unfortunately, one of them was a mess; the bushings didn't really match the ones on the other side part, they hadn't been pressed in fully, were crooked, and the rubber was rotten. It was really disappointing and it's amazing how it could have passed quality control.

It probably passed through quality control some 20 years back.
A lot of the stuff you're buying from MB for our cars these days is old stock, pushed out at eye watering prices.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: TJ 450 on 14 April 2019, 08:44 PM
Those upper arms are shocking. I was able to get Lemforder ones a couple of years back and they were fresh stock. Are they NLA now? Pretty sure they were from PelicanParts.

Tim
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 14 April 2019, 11:04 PM
Those upper arms are shocking. I was able to get Lemforder ones a couple of years back and they were fresh stock. Are they NLA now? Pretty sure they were from PelicanParts.

Tim

I originally got Lemförder, but they were made in Taiwan and one of the boots had a grind mark in it, so I sent them back and got genuine Mercedes, but then one of them was no good. Here's hoping the replacement is better, but it takes a few weeks to get them here. There are about a couple hundred of each side in Germany.

There are many other brands available, such as Meyle, ÜRO, Febi, Vollig, Moog, Beck-Arnley, and on and on. But who can tell the country of origin and level of quality these days? Worst case scenario, maybe I can order new bushings from Mercedes that I can press in myself to replace the rotten ones in the new genuine control arm. I really hope that was an anomaly, and I'm not going to have the bushings rot away in short time even if they appear fine initially.

Even though I'm broke and racking up credit card debt doing this, I want to put the best quality parts on my car so they last as long as possible and give the best performance so I'm not having to mess with my car more than necessary. The desert is really harsh on rubber parts anyway.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: TJ 450 on 14 April 2019, 11:35 PM
Yep, it’s a pretty sad state of affairs these days. I bought a set of rod bushings for my 6.3 from MB, and they are made in China.

Tim
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: ptashek on 15 April 2019, 01:43 AM
I have febi upper control arms in my car since 2013 and they're in like-new condition still. I have driven the car in excess of 200km/h on the autobahn many times since, and also on poor quality Irish back roads which are unforgiving to any suspension components. Nothing has deteriorated or disintegrated, alignment I spot on, and there's no play of any kind.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 15 April 2019, 11:25 AM
Yep, it’s a pretty sad state of affairs these days. I bought a set of rod bushings for my 6.3 from MB, and they are made in China.

Tim

"You'll never see a genuine MB part made in China."

--Tom Hanson, July 24th, 2016.

I followed up by letting him know that I in fact did recently receive a genuine Mercedes part that was made in China, to which he responded:

"China is pirating a lot of parts. I've seen them. Scary. None of our authorized parts manufacturers are in China! There is an independent parts importer near Irvine that has a dealership in China and they sell lots of pirate parts. Eventually we will nail them."

In fairness to Tom, things change and he may not have been aware of them yet.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 15 April 2019, 11:31 AM
I have febi upper control arms in my car since 2013 and they're in like-new condition still. I have driven the car in excess of 200km/h on the autobahn many times since, and also on poor quality Irish back roads which are unforgiving to any suspension components. Nothing has deteriorated or disintegrated, alignment I spot on, and there's no play of any kind.

Do you remember in which country the Febi ones were made? Lemförder is supposed to be top tier, even above Febi, but I saw the country of origin (Taiwan) and the damage to the boot and was disappointed because I paid the extra money for Lemförder because I was expecting German-made and better quality control standards. Then again, I was expecting better quality control on the genuine Mercedes, too. Age was clearly not the only problem on the one piece, as the bushing wasn't even pushed in all the way and was crooked.

I really don't like the feeling of paying extra money for the best and getting something that's unacceptable.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: ptashek on 15 April 2019, 04:05 PM
I don't know where the febis are made, or by whom exactly. I bought mine from a trusted source, but fakes are always a risk.

As a side note, the whole "made in" thing is largely irrelevant. Same company may have plants all over the globe, and supply local markets from multiple sources.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 15 April 2019, 06:31 PM
As a side note, the whole "made in" thing is largely irrelevant. Same company may have plants all over the globe, and supply local markets from multiple sources.

Correct, but it's possible that quality may differ from one factory to the next. A part made in China may or may not be the same quality as a part made in Germany, but how do I know what level of quality I'm actually getting? I feel that it's too much of a gamble. In theory the Chinese part might be just as good as a German part, but I'd like some reassurance before installing the part on my vehicle.

For example, I've put Chinese parts on cars before in the past, which appeared to be decent quality, but then dry rotted in a week, whereas the original part lasted 30 years. Then I installed a German-made part and it's lasted years since. How can we tell which Chinese parts are any good? This is the problem I face--when everything is Chinese-made, it's hard to tell the quality from the junk until it's installed. At least with the German-made parts, I had confidence in the quality standards.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: karmann_20v on 15 April 2019, 09:50 PM
Yep, it’s a pretty sad state of affairs these days. I bought a set of rod bushings for my 6.3 from MB, and they are made in China.

Tim

"You'll never see a genuine MB part made in China."

--Tom Hanson, July 24th, 2016.

I followed up by letting him know that I in fact did recently receive a genuine Mercedes part that was made in China, to which he responded:

"China is pirating a lot of parts. I've seen them. Scary. None of our authorized parts manufacturers are in China! There is an independent parts importer near Irvine that has a dealership in China and they sell lots of pirate parts. Eventually we will nail them."

In fairness to Tom, things change and he may not have been aware of them yet.

Well, URO Parts is indeed a MB supplier now so there goes that!

Good progress Squiggle, by the looks of t you're going to hang on to the old 116 for a while, Kudos to you!
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 28 April 2019, 06:37 PM
I received the replacement upper control arm, so all is good there. Thanks, UTn_boy! I cleaned up the rear subframe with biodiesel. It's fantastic stuff that melts off the grease! Fortunately most of the paint was intact. I sanded and treated the rusty spots with Corroseal rust converter. The pockets where the subframe mounts go had rubber from the old mounts fused to them. I wonder if this has to do with the alcohol-based sliding fluid the factory used.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/KEsEPf6So6ayClKGGN0mV1jIt1q7yGLtWnzx1PeOG6R7T44ZcJ-IyW5Wq5wwaGW404F9WXciIMiMqKo0kRi2BT95KvEFLV4QP3uJa3TSArJW_z7TfdtkiWyLIknWRrwvP6FFhtcmlRA74U85VrkIOfJdKt6AvpgQnfgh77bg6NxbuwzdhaMvOgA5Og7HoGCMTDULGqBLxFlDDW564MMeuJUZRDQ0K4pYLmtNm_FhA0aQyIo-AWK5nVpcVdxgl8OXarAty_77y9TEP7JkHPwShTItuBrBKCZyBlwjdVRVv-36E9hw_qskMC-DEBNcUbGqKdEZWJsfYjywa1XwSKRFjWZuTygT3iTasrXjio4L5M0s4rQpn9GoA31Lef9K6ieB21YhbIjO5qcaVcKPFmQWGv4UIxb38ZpCoBYZn4IjGP-UK7TQbIf5wKLMpkhS_9fzB6PGP10VdzXRdc86iEhtjRChdCILwUKv6h6Rip19THVpYBGgfqnE7wytWpZASiOK2GNvE0Z9wunMdk0gB7s0oGRR5ik5fuh2KV5-zRiLd1-JgzuJmkD3He01OARJJLqvRT7P__1NHtqs78A_-B10FmjsgYnd8w32yaKLutGm-0dUuPmlAvQwyRLWM78B5hf99erSY8FtA4VGkaM2Qp4jEdAgXN2VkkU=w800-h453-no)

I slowly scraped off the old rubber with the help of brake parts cleaner. When I was done I sprayed a coat of semi flat black paint in the pockets to cover any scratches to keep rust from forming in the future.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/K7sOH8j1W3V4U7qwcLPuEzR6Cgs_vh8wsoCibyXnWN4DzjW0XtJcJh9F_GFSdhLDGOBeR_GRkNUREra2pFY0DXqSAO3X45BAaF9MvDrieHO0Q0J5UWCAIdPT_7KuE6RxHy3rnTnts3UT-i-BS-IxR9CN6k5LSSCxuTkAg-l-me44xKEGeXZhU9MHOqdGu7ehx5GwuyvLzPaQLNHSLQblbDSIAepBXV5uvWUml4eRFKljxBQwHkMN8PPQ5adE3gkMP7wgXTwV2CmZ-LeerQ-TeIX4Druxv71umvs9g2fJqe7u138urJbqgF34inxdvWnjOozcUNl_BPbIMtFeJWQsri6BYbSFjHWhxc98SP3OxarL-S_y7Gs9vTmSZXsq7jtPBDPABrWgXMzoJMRetUA6vrPLNBX9p0G0sVwD5eZMRtDA5GMXpiaKL1E__oUCHXYjiolGcNxc2p271YGCHzcEaWyYgKNVFwEBeQ3RCSTZpNHHn67jEbQEUN5yNDql3GC08NTtpInD2duM9ml7tVYfc3XKuQjw7ZWi3q4QIqiIqnk6Cvwm79KJT2wF_Z5pH4-91nAy_zyw5rvYMciA5Jd80TQHdfMx4UZNS5mmpN6EG0rVfkBQG5zoxgArxRWLKj397xdMvdXFL18cuoVAW7yNG7sqI80SYRM=w800-h453-no)

I cleaned the trailing arms by hand as I didn't want to get a bunch of junk sprayed into the brakes and bearings. They also got rust converter applied.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/L5MXXTcyBKJZwF1g19eQhDw3ANDT8ajfznzKChNxfo07_pWakwHTNfSNmGqTJHxYszzVLtG1WnQ0Xh27IKE5FoL-WnZXYA2ff39szUG2WR4j1ffepblmW493kyKAwCIsGJfONsU6pyHFyUuy5fHeylld0SBuyh6Fi5CxAtv3qvMcekzzjoVY7Ykq9hqWFXfzfU-IDLmFTaVMD9qlUjxN3uWF4uxg0zJJDE6YO_lDctXn7KOJq0N85INX4EoMAOq3Bjdqyv8L1jsrhsZf6FMVHUT_YVsj8t4X2oOFVR5jU1ZG5nKkh7FYVbqo6WI_XpNZx8kzFMWkiS87LVrQ9gBcNhY0EOWMdEm8SnCvzJR5dMFEsBBhHapY0dIXuocjqu2cZ5mwrFA-a7qYEQuyfCW8tI8zi5ZVbHSzFMbzdWTiH2a00-8g-fXWENQPr2vwawt2Bpnzk_wqNOeDGPs_a2D3tx887c1UlTjYoWud3ICCLvAdXST78V3w4i2TTU_69h6CspVW8nydPU7MAGCUHWsD3muDZqD6EyZDQWVk-j8yxmRtFoGYsty4LJCOd5Bj7bJv1cDqv2WI1oMKy78ARBOUw-z0UK5fovV0s1Cho4eWwOZ9Rb41puvHGIofX7FY-z4bAa21rayZPgbgxKUije5m5ILppo6O2Qg=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 28 April 2019, 07:11 PM
I used genuine Mercedes trailing arm bushings, which are now a 126 part number made by Boge, replacing the 123 part number originals which were made by Phoenix. I got the old ones out by using a socket over the fat end of the bushings and improvising a puller with a bolt, washers, and a nut. The new ones went in with a yoke remover tool against the eyelet of the trailing arm with a rubber oil filler cap gasket in between to prevent chipping the paint.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fnji3WKi81a9oIJhiar-algqrc6s-lnSSeeLs0qQb9tHXQGiMK-JPj2fljdV_NkzUWE9LPskE9tkKos0EJ8UNyREA6dNyJ427LJ9DPPJheKbX-eypMKOJVSplDslcNkdahUvwDbFB2cw7x3e3Pp9NTmGO4hdXwTlle-vBUL5NYBG2oAxqniNqWyHokfPbRpnV4h4eHW1YWA1e4Cg9Bau7tEbirlA1vSo2f1qufOxN580B5nj5rhDuIWVRa12kuPqXZ5-a2o6g_GM_l7tOAfD8A53KnDNN1968rR5hZJlPGeJGqXxapGDlK2mePCJYFuTpJ4XeRtOyB-s__AJcLiv7WP7qoQfRwB87sQsPdkuTnuRt2E_-_JNHzLO0gMDVYG92npPbNRm6AunqzGZQDNh7KfpmK3afwmnFFPdFFOPc7YQ3w2wtUZbbnzPzx-KFjxztEAsa0-KtFrhwJ1nX219RrMVpDsufNRl_6bKKHqsHthdrOFn8YX52RQFXLKyGdqrYujWH_QCxUjexowl6bJZrKKrZAB8_GhGmZSoGWDb15drYSzkGAZdZeku3SY3163UJCb32IvR0H3miRpbmESAWKxfXw5nTL18fYKRY--kML1TclU6_KsYqWUhGf-TiMdkBxA_OlWUncfAXB6CmLFpsgvUYG08ZQE=w800-h453-no)

After the end of the bushing would bottom out against the yoke puller, I would add a socket to give it clearance to go in the rest of the way.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/FbKFKJqN-bXZLHeteIqSi-KlJftwl37i0CmYo9P8rnuqmjIy3o5B4acNGWtdu67-wwgvE0gfRZI5r9SmN2krxiHpxyNoq0Jkzpq8FHht8ON8_upx-Q5sMP73L6UUpI1UpBauY2GhLRZE_od9pkqlP6T_tXH2oCyjFtnypxTNK7XBvVw7HfYYVjobcj_Z3REHVYMK2g_ynQDHhVfu3y3aGOIBUrGvj8E8fP425gipXZcsAcGC1Cpxk9zYXWaUP_bbsGo1VcnK5TtQE0kSE7a7zRiNWUSRZTUAw9L6kpeO2PvNBwyWuSAdY0ZJzIJ0y66CDZNknYFJIQkCOvIqFsgYyPIpfD3pvBZ7MA9lkHTCrmMtin-nF9Baoa0F0P0TEDDkdcMzUAVx1DkoSuhWRzU580ShZ1NMswlREcboowWGWCUDshPHuuQdoNV-YyTDlxeVlpdr9JJVnZN9B2ZsumstNPBHKfXW0yehOx4d1FCtJ3gQueppccs6uoNzcZBICrjENG4ZQZuTNWd7oq1Zs_3YNNxO0jCCivGENcN85xEp3nvXhvFtlDJKG-Kz3_0y79qQAzCx9yjEXbPbVwjuZ6Ap1zrOqV2HpX9TjwDzkj6WSeheMvuK_awMZFASM2Z8RYPuHB-7VBkNtoDvhqNIx02r8kvpfELyLbQ=w800-h453-no)

I didn't know what kind of lubricant to use to get them in place. The Mercedes sliding fluid recommended is very expensive at about $57 a tube. I didn't want to use a grease (especially not a petroleum-based one, which I don't use anyway) as I didn't want to risk having the bushings rotating inside the eyelets, though they are a tight fit. As I was doing research, dish soap was recommended as it's slippery at first and is supposed to dry out afterward. Then I read that WD-40 was even better, didn't contain petroleum, and dried with no residue. Lots of people were recommending it, so I took their advice, happy to have finally found a use for the stuff.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2bvFrS5FPiJtVems16qutYYeCrOcgljWV_IbWWl6N68tmtaCr5lxFhTegmtho_mUxqgH7iuS3yd9aK32AnwQCztQpC61fmyNqo4VWpxi2zHpuAoHNUxA9O2S3utLLlZH9UVXcTPSlk5IvT22NVMETaLBx54rRFUEsf44HKaGs4_62YQu2O_Dkbic5fWxxIYqKWl3Zi-4SDlp7wgTDu79yGMh-1axhLcuuTC0bhEAz9i7Xh1OipRFn8iQdFfv6LYP87q_J0-HEN482dq8i-L86iCy5T_xZRznbbY4HUwYO_L-hSHbphf2iw5k7wkO9av3q8J7TXN-nomiXfcg2viikbvQ-mWG7B8REAXf3PQqf3ivqoymgS-dMD8IRnrI0nk4G9uktQo_eutorluiKEBnsTskyjTeMfIUfdE1IkQmyDkgrJnkzwD1gKLZHVPslj_woliPGxAfLeDzlXEL47QA-EoEoxzyxjLCp_TkvuWNbTHdc47kH8cp4a-TGq8De8Ncyff5RGIfQFfDph9wUdpIvHZVEULiLUNkzh9O9AkMyoRpbrVk2XuFFfzAvKuyr-lwDpA2DQdB7V-zOrz4H_4GikY5OJcFnuAXrHqFNymzHDYybbyVgs1nJucLGjPQ-3h1myuLis7GMMbVpj4iSEFLRLDoFfzZj4c=w800-h453-no)

Now that I've used WD-40 to install the trailing arm bushings on my car, it turns out it DOES attack rubber because it contains hydrocarbons and petroleum. It uses capillary action to open up pores and cracks, penetrates, causes the rubber to swell, and then dry rot.

WD-40's USA website says it's safe to use on rubber and recommends it as a rubber dressing and using on door seals (they lie). https://www.wd40.com/uses-tips/automotive-repair/keeps-weather-stripping-and-rubber-car-door-seals-soft-and-prevents-drying-and-cracking (https://www.wd40.com/uses-tips/automotive-repair/keeps-weather-stripping-and-rubber-car-door-seals-soft-and-prevents-drying-and-cracking) Their Australian website cautions against using it on rubber. http://www.wd40.com.au/faqs/wd-40-safe-used-rubber/ (http://www.wd40.com.au/faqs/wd-40-safe-used-rubber/)

In the end, there are many reports of it damaging plastic and rubber parts. Obviously, some types more than others (natural EPDM rubber being one). So much for all the posts of people saying WD-40 is the best thing to use to install rubber suspension bushings as it "is safe for rubber and fully evaporates". I hope I didn't shorten the performance and lifespan of mine, and will be sure to keep WD-40 away from my car. I suppose it's dish soap for the rest of the bushings I will install.

I'm happy with how the differential turned out. The rear wheel bearing sockets are a perfect fit to act as plugs for the side seals.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ftCbtOzjM0-srxWgMV8nHu1JP1HTN-6VD6qAWsP2GKhsAQJI1nBcNfX8bd6meSm3YWBz5MtzXfVzlCE9QqHJGUSjvRwjO3ZVgSWDEg7ZeerDJrmaVRhmzFqbBqodz4ONclIok2CmhjKa1VABw0h1Z67tkrcmbiV4vPI1B-2ZzZ3TzNzlHmQdI0g2oBZpNVZ4DGrdmnnrL-oX2fSMl2DFHxGFtgARaKPTgj6Uq8u8VohtApX_RR4_Gl_mz-xSFAzhVG66togqA0Rk4eqokCoFfAMrl3MAFzI24f3cGvpG-Xo0QUvtY-7kSZNCcLE5cENAb4tctavmrFCQOEVVBWL-y0Dbb-go2FrTF_vyjOdDNg_pLUkY3FT5sgL-3rKUpUKULAy1zACm8lzWJgI3vrUG-X3eeig0nuGbdphI85POd1hDbQhfe9mSofVOxOMEo3-G0F4xcFdHRQt1XNGga56Ldhb0UOLE0T5W3r1dP7VqD6sTLp8tvBA2YTdFh2NNrtxuH5R2NIrgUNwqhcEhTeFzrNi7L65wHdPsbzltQ_U76j0eb0VsHmdRH759ufzcn47qVhiLfQ3_gGDFcJ8eFWLaj397t-crqTe7P4SCVqKlZy-wKRUa05dZoJv9hGN4X4qzEVji5JrkHkqPorwwCrBDCACYyb3Z1cU=w800-h453-no)

The CVJ axle shafts are painted and it is necessary to strip the paint off of the seal surface and shaft that goes inside the differential. They install new spacer rings for a fresh seal surface; the surface on my old axles had deep grooves worn in them and they would no doubt have leaked. I failed to strip the paint off of the shaft and one side got stuck in the differential and wouldn't budge in either direction. I carefully tried prying out the axle but ended up bending the lip of the can, much to my frustration. So, I tried tapping in the axle shaft with a rubber mallet, and it didn't budge. So, then I hit the end of the axle shaft with a sledge hammer to try to force it in, and it wouldn't budge. Finally, I was able to fit a small square file into the opening on the other side of the differential and was able to tap the axle shaft back out and then strip off the paint; after which it went in without trouble (after straightening the lip and doing some paint touch-up). However, the circlips that hold the axle shafts in place seem to be worn, one side more than the other, and they are a loose fit, so I ordered new ones which should hopefully circumvent needing to replace the spacer washers.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8sLAX355LwFnNib_Npy9aLyUsA--8mwjeSt3g0mudCSzmRlRan2ScI0Skvccnxa5Fem9j66HuV9U5Q6xBOfjCifkpSkdiCOJltrrFZjrUcx3ZjxuiedkJ9tjiTi2vh4l4JOpT7X4RGLXjgLnj3040FkOSpLi7k9psTJmk-QRcjR1HmC0Tnvu1sRvhvsmqaIDdAqqYT8skaa-RZb6kgWb4kfXGdJ2UHNCGW3Bo0vzL8d6NZqJouw73zXqNAxWzoYewzSxxzWkjoHeO5jcGGHdBm6IrjdJ5VwS7k24RES_7KFuFI-iScv7qLFiN2my9qu5BgAtnCF-OH6CFcPCIAWYfKIOHEbKD5LPhpDwOKibPFThGH6SB6lVTGhvFMdVB0c43hEoLYaWP5S-JDrFdSn58qNt9IKnz3OzWMtOQRNvmdGFS7vFlxJwO2vB4ompKR3WKE0d6BVymRgmoYH6DZ8xCZZYqXkBVYwRXZtoO9dnUJh2IL0HPvNaropujEI28frJg6KGHSBjaR2XmrAc-70BUY-kWhM9VtLIfYm6JAlod0j59uTOkfmSKtZBMzCGkdq9l1z-_y1Jx_AIKqyt4NjTDtFmZ9FEs-Qk2DUivU7a2i7bdRyyNNHA9i6nKvXIaxzzrvJ5BqdI5lgO6mOatTUHM6_HECjnkEo=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: floyd111 on 28 April 2019, 10:11 PM
Wow!
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: TJ 450 on 29 April 2019, 07:08 AM
I’ve used Vaseline in the past, and also silicone grease, although any kind of lubricant that remains as such is probably not ideal in the long term (it may allow the bushing to rotate in service).

Tim
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 29 April 2019, 09:10 AM
I’ve used Vaseline in the past, and also silicone grease, although any kind of lubricant that remains as such is probably not ideal in the long term (it may allow the bushing to rotate in service).

Tim

Silicone grease was my first consideration, but I worried about the bushings rotating. Isn't Vaseline petroleum-based and not suited for rubber?

Edit: I looked it up and apparently it's petroleum-based and contains hydrocarbons, both bad for EPDM rubber. (I can't believe people put it on their skin!)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: orientrot on 29 April 2019, 01:06 PM
What was the price for those remanned axles? I need to do something about mine before I get my car back into service.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 29 April 2019, 01:37 PM
What was the price for those remanned axles? I need to do something about mine before I get my car back into service.

$189 each plus $75 core charge each plus $34 shipping to Arizona.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 05 May 2019, 07:22 PM
The parking brake cable housings had the rubber worn off of them where they went through the grommets.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qcE_gvXVmuDQwl3I7gYCOyfw11mKGdq4cYFWsDGwwZmsRDvLEoWBiqVqw_Lb2fxkFuEJiFOOTTXrWS0otC1KUC55gPswkOwtWs6-vqsguGWMIh7X6KLLh3uuXlQZzKRv9fVjgcrFzyPzcAWIPwCKOj5akMLVFYWY18e6XREuAKT9eJZ7TTc36Lhut3jEYWLhiFKDGfPiZrMs-3XgCvebNx9WpeT_16-s0SpmDFZErTiQEM9XZFoqks0k06nmCGmAwyvkXtDKuKGXi47UroCZ6iNj_MmlUP0JrLTF-xIiunX4nWF-RQctnbrYertLxPqtyMGy-ga4TUYO3WXk5-Xr0XlmFVSJ9D83ONJofHHxHYpc5b9R_VvuDuFxooc35ryqBYSHq6BmqjiFI8lZ07OWt3ooQ8BJL_TB2IKIKeiPl4L4GSh_IA-q9wuep4T7iJTpxSTGlyetJSX6v63LBDD6cNuOgwccNVP6zg8yNUKD5c7uEy4duS49YlrAsds0azPAxw-fSi4EyuasQVE1IsnRZpINJIa4YDDa8OQr4qEOBy2UkIxnvPoIWgk_rTxIR4W1COdb8wS3-qw8bbwlhEvj83LOt4zck3AGAphrs9mVdW9zTxjLUKcpXE2xisO7V5GnPpXOLiOyX-Ai2tjnsYD7SEGEvWfaU38=w800-h453-no)

I filled in the worn spots with RTV.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ncK3vuD61gDZFQUgs7c2Q-G6SF2pwHfJIQ5GIqJlzDrza02ha9IC51388OqC1tmuBPKNLdNIdrHYlb6ehpgo18YUcH0BtPI1Mb7J9_wLKp_lSedCYlA9cKbxf_nW50yOzHUsex6Yo-3Xn73HzkhVEzn8JV9G0Qykd9CXcTwHvr0SjmT1aYZ60BS93Gx3SEbbcfraCUI6-k_YvDrtv7Dq3-YVtcq1m5pHwZII3eOesmw5bMRjAZ4viUHDFWewKdbXgSvgV1RjUMl-qrKR3ynklKZa7-eFRqlzlgr-WKedcCVjkGlBOGrN9O8XtAqD2yhHcRQfNLDOHYQV8ZAHDunvmTnsj6KWIRQ0ouXdcue9Ac2m1HL0hAkUFK-Cc3VdWttj4tZ6yNeNx7fKplSSb0zq_vNueadodT0YmSl-MFS2hp1NfPOANWlvY_VRSaX5ov6h8E3zA-l8PeMMIzNiJB-nx7aBIWL9E5VEPN4ouyUtzJe_y3vWUUvt0ZviO52aonsJ8iTj9jCX5TuygggsAu1fGJ4FEKqziv4oNAhtxaFX4Om3abgyZRdCZuVfS00reeVK5b0-HE_n6lziPssWwyJlbAOvOkZyr2mqS1lwo6P0pPqRKwjCpNtIooaxAnFvyrCqQ-OgurtEYgQsnrpFiCBCeyZW_5FFS-Y=w800-h453-no)

Then I put 5/8" heavy wall self-adhesive heat shrink tubing cut down to 1 1/2" sections over them to protect against future wear.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/oD_kx1d40BJohHUGPO8KCvo23GWli_skmjBPVy2zva-mAxRJo6I2CpZ0f4kwmckcrgrjhdMjh3rLJgCku_GgROGo2OK982-rcQX7xj9bwREh4v_aIZWbCt67nDHIJiY_yACdHkzyFDYH1_hWf9YgM4ZJOpXN7dQmLTJp-BbVpXMlyHAFNRjoaQxj4L34PSJ0yYD2__I0KFbRBB6OvMK3Uk4O7k_1nfGqT1usCtMF2n4eakETXiuejOKxxaEx4ZeJ1-_Lqtf0UYM_SbBcIqYeYndsMLpN_BgGisEjkwicbFZSgqZOrghcizuj-iKFDZZOrCcvzLIGnJdOEYiQXyb50LR8J7ah3HgirM-WU21VuBsCFXFkAxDyRXQmzEy6wcMhxVeCmwqXAxFwyh5DCUI66RPK4XlQLnfgIeolsJ3aIEGVSywsDuC23qbumZDAlgDa2AwV5_FaP_8CQmOqiaCkDpE1xKqsqPHqfoPG7pL92b_u1uPnIC6MB9mAyU7bcayZqGV6mYrPmH1zjAt-7ufYQMbfTGr7zLhN_AvOaivQ6Ea64DfMAfcfeZlcpTsd7IyVfl7BfVAQPdJ71kdFR0stXe9JSd9UPV4ZgTkW8WYoHl275iif7ep-1X3TZNll4ATEQp0ZnnI7Z0GpHeqOp9-bXL6KikNAv3g=w800-h453-no)

And then shrank it down with a heat gun.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7d4yt43-Fm_M_11VexrGn3W18mXVPCEgFA4VTAAper4Ta-0MWBqjvO-5iTo7XkPHBjyclHwpX8A-sMDieKN6_T5n4pygW9ykibtnTkvrv9CEKCq-lXwiFIrYZKYUumVRwjre1l-CYDls0fiQT_ngf4ATOzAyPTudTge2JpCTRWBZ8dgwdtL6LSJZGKIR01rpwl_6GdoNC22JRkGydUEHxCPAEpHRBn4kbls30_Mxi4F1D8_Kq-0EP3Ln1-LDQl1h5vAPjbkADHxXRAO5bYQ4-o8bfPJgPBw5SfJCJ9JZ7Fw0Y9U841MuMk04grPWDGgNpgq6ZuBhhrUMQg6MJVs8q5aG0mgWnw75Mg0YnaPcvO4ea12_gfyHJ-T1EK7FfpBgsidFWpDz37dqN29gsm3WlbeMq7vTZ3RKYHG-47lLCbyKphp8uZTEPa7AOnnqU-4s04liA-IdBwu-UmSi5wv5LE8-EdAu0ohvBOmPt8mS1UH6BoYByZ7t7ao5wIu1FFtOlHxQ9diBSAerG19aUG1L6x0GispjRlxP8wED6SQmI6JRVTAOutWc6E7FurcX2XkeuqLqmOqQ4vaRE-zcAYo7u32goxLaqjVtrC_dYXNWyPH6IC1jQYHmCblpR9CgCb4YVTpiqfXTKnaeyxvtsKUJiq0PULH21Bk=w800-h453-no)

I wasn't able to move the cables out of the grommets on the trailing arms without removing the cables, but I was able to partially shrink the tubing and then slide it through the grommets and shrink it down.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/BAJSyshvPi_SJfrUiuVXO00t2cg_HlYdsy5xrTRyl9W0GaTyyNMrK4ve6Qun0PbA7QUtgAFr3OSU7HQeh-3VdMOOwakQeHk6InaxhdEboBXILBDNrsYaLLhM2zzzaQ60FQBliVO7MdGe-c8ViUUtumzD6qldO52bWN__Rt2mHSXbXWGX6JXVld_Wdcgf_SaX6YhubMrEywEnzL0qxWBtoIUn5StMQA_rEShVP50FXF8BS-BvfQHlZ3h3Zh35WmSaGBgqDinybNhfEhtekHc_Ck1oIkwigsX1TuLgIue7wxolDc3CplL7r9c1uDsv2aSpaL1-t6sXE2LmT4Ks009Q22N3AtXTVT8wdpc0eCqnfZqvZdNnfwPkvHTwexmYmETK9VHk976MXGEiOp1T5f2HmuOLeGb4rsV8IL_yNsfz_4d62j4JMV5idnVx1XqCiMr0wmanxdNbeAyqOrYvSI8Zpr3i0dDUvZ9pMcPB6YwPIW1q0HXzMWG_2r_eHBJ7XEbMIanGD6vHnY6XOW0vJkhB9iGuoEP-hspMErAgMgPGdh6Pk6lIEREAwpSqeADq8th-ww35wD8K_IwMmRPzMjwUcuV9Q8CIkqCJMhBlcohUdru8lexx0vMzubYmAqxwN0LVdl4DLoZ3Q2A8aJlW13L3BTYQU67Z_p4=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Peter on 05 May 2019, 07:30 PM
Very nice work Sir.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 05 May 2019, 07:36 PM
I put Kable-Ease lubricant in the cables and let it soak in. One of the rubber boots was split, so I put 1/2"-1/4" heat shrink tubing on them to help preserve them.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/DFoAHth_uuWmmIe7jHdB7Za9q_z48tDCY8KNPP0pJgY3lJS2h7eWuZupE4yinmFib7KIRE12TllJR9bW1pyXrMkgj9oC7SpZat7JQEmGJHKFUsx4TS72TFgjTOQuZ5mRqzMOLAjXtM-UWsDJnjzBtCAnPLIkdhDCK-X2kTUjjb75UvSVlfe_7VMeRDEyV6wDB6OhZON_OukYHR1RCxw40ijt5RgE9RpHdbPq3Aify0pT0giDOo_mBO3LIScguJnHL4-Mfa4mIRc8b5XarZOoG2CV98xFOmUDoRUZBotCDS-KwrfUsr3-aAOKOaTNU5xSfI0R34StW-mTg6N-RyYIfpd8088yv1VxJM1LiA3e8FxD6PeLi783sOO29G8lOICwbDIRGMw5M4dlUE3KXo0xR-yMMjuAGMQNm-T5dOjVyRcgtqpD96THzI2l9O4_JEysTOL2px3h9F7N6GF5BGdH-6d0SJSGKJM8KoyfSqxVfpPNBtwQFbwcpFpet3tCgta_xurP2JBw5IqPmZgJvOLrE9Qhxt0sJ0Q0Lmix459dtt1ytVmeC80jpotep3DLmelpRJcLHgx9BvZ9IB6SPdSsXr5OPI2nGlvtl1jTXil9OUq85Nu2gm0AmGBj88yDb8HsWncVB1o56zb7ldWe60lF4z95pFYaT0c=w800-h453-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uAyXW_jpwo2eS3eeZhRdEJDfQehEODYMB76zm5iXfZ16YQkNSdLVjcqe3u6QbiNarIPCEQnF8w3R1TvHBoHLS70q8jQJsMPVyaaxDFUfltjq3ps7sBP44Z0Du34rZ38tiktMy0MbltHIjAPJ_BwNjHooMZn7CjacUmz0RB2daibxP0mtIpbGb2krL_vWVZvQxdILVBMrA4Zja_LecRIk2FCDVCxZIYZl3qG5q5gTQ8pZFu7vQjtiL9i-4b5UqASpjgbJcCipPx6qVQ3Z6uf8ry_27AND0740GWd4mTpXnrtuiDpQMcMzbiGsKgHtGIwjpzG8p3gsxiCcYR9Ecv2krDO7-JLw-97T0Ck1Pb7l7G33mWg9gMznlyqJ4GWI_agzth_uIfwyE20OWm8DB_ViO2eLuuU_g91bZCMeMTp8Soo2bkmjXkX1gqPexe10HM79J-ZHIte0OURAusauDfjldHq0B4IHa_rTstxsldpUUNwgBrLAIhNKTkgE8MJJjBjLgZcOyGLPb2QkYwUjBmcArWiyyMTlZ_unHiVijA2I6DuUMXJNDijpNm022KlMabZX-9VqUoWogPlWjbQTe8XIyxgGNIRVVIHy6GmOsOMHLGv36pylJJ8M9F8U16wwKcxLVVNJpCLn3wChrKo4i_E7uh8sa0t0D7A=w800-h453-no)

The plastic coating on the end of the cable had stress cracks, so I filled them in with clear PorPatch.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VBG36jF_ZHM-7on32R35mNQidAHwBMp-JtM2w66nI8O1TMKR168HxrSFm4EK_ajnMZiL1jGv9hwMvOB3JdFH6C-vilgGFMfD_Fp8lrEWPD8MVDxhLa-SH9wiTWpY9a8qGJuI8VPlt-ty0NzF_emooqMqwJmHNd5PnkwxHiAlX8cB3s3Lahiu4FuLBd5R5BtJx6IfWz6f7geaE5swJrkwc-AdG4J2_nH3y4nMCqq6hRGCFe1wnrFHGvNRtSzLmH8ODcY5nrptoGZtId85XgXNSdtQBLsmx_TQviZleLAhJ8sQKmQTtqXi9Ph91t1EVNXSJoxFCl8O6MIz4EMXzfM_vNj7xrx8TfgRKBWba0hLGuE7i4k_C3fsOCb1kYHy_6RcILljY2R3PTqXN_I82ojVUPAC2MbkHIC3HXWWGqkrTAfet_WYtN1rjWJaktZYsj7reemwM_JOdbfIkSAODKdmnUs_mHq8XqSjKZAo96yekzgeQBB9QyH441fw4tVMyLtT6NRvmDP14HntwauiD3mdN0FNKa6hYNkiZzMUwM57zPYTjj8BJ1z0DyWU3ltsneVj8wQGSd3TXCTj64lKcQ9uCxCSloRGZ8fvkWxdDOSlkQIj5pngw5Hxv3P_M6AKBSGgUVl6P9gF8GUn1HLqhnJod3U6prTJKjY=w800-h453-no)

The rear axle parts are cleaned up and ready to assemble.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/PyDKuw6W2eMTHNCdK-PYsV8IhOeSLuDm_rrADBNZPQEAKpFQWOEa323ZwsBPe5LB7pIud18kNNdNtM5jfAw80apdNxf8tJju1wjRzsngCtWipG6KY5QzcNo7xRye4Rw31KBbJEMExJCS27-OFNIwMd06l5gQitW2anTYCILF1DTWEXcmJbNuI7crble0vBw93QGR-WVVjut11_2tdYf4cmsFgKvsF7y-Wikxr3DiLZ-keELCEe0OESCo7J0GecpBacbouZUqE7jcF5XpgY12wAO3dOJK4-YdEIS9kSwzPHD5IVnda_ngeRexU4BJUxyBT_ADvCXujDn_CLv6F6_Q-1flnQH_fwnqfA8GqYKUEgR6_CzEFx9NfqDfM0a7LiAKmlz46HMb1UZlOwscBtyGr47j3baRtYE8f9NcM42ItBPXrTblNy8toUxi5iAXakm_MJTYS7Bat2SO81a9yLK20OWc80rgx05lDmRk0z4CjsT7Y6i9Ibsj8f9tXCF67Lzt7y-stm3GBklgBdLhC9hl5LLI2DrOkWDbfCInlq5RuBHLPOdFdChmqUifbsOncnA-CALE55s5ta5tlM7cb335yO0zdxtM3HoX-eUDH6RDXkkHCTAghgswa2MppPOrbiThE4W8lvDSEkIvDUu0zfczL9lbgSB7tw4=w800-h453-no)

The underside of the car was filthy, most of it having to do with a leaking differential and road grime. I could not live with it, so I started scraping away the large stuff and then washed it all with LA's Totally Awesome Cleaner by hand with a brush and scrubbing pad. It was a horrible process which involved me being soaking wet and covered in dirt and grease (including my face) with the car being right over me.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iBeXKC2unOFIe3WoR6Ap5rehM6SyCstO8LlWl3NMp9PEh-hrNayNUqIoLFgprYCFFu8gHG-u0_nAW1rGmkQLCOGiVCmqqO0izveJmB9MtpSA6TJWak_pJ4DpssJAa0XLuE6DcRuRXTE8JESJGFhred0JX-Vz38jdRyShfDmjioVX3uh7PM6uB78Ihai97TgmNJpOa1NFz4kSIh9mq-sChy2PGAvd4gDL66t33fefSUaq5pkgYl0m82mGukTklaDGohtEz0_P6n3z4jYsUEAF0o29SdBxU7UL_gUODS5PhxbV_gPksV989QDsscw4Cik0bKUoT3ArHRX77P5obKwpCg07O50_JekRSfIsGSZuJV4dkM8ESA_f7egK0kzpymPppeUzyfWUg1APxNpCQJSlDc48MHmMi43ottETv1PPuo82Ksf6LkOT1fdP3qRZMVDKOUG-z_Ejm9-Vb47-5AIgiWdAw6hoBhGX66334lo_IN_c6R4ygtZBUwV1jLYB9yvV9K0aJVvopGJWlwPSuJNihu2VERm22a_jBeE3dOEAltwXn73uvSbrHQFzUbuHPn1_l4iaYq6AOe3KIQnX3usXnFlaoHiNtpn8FV-xgAY-84iM4_QKqaEwf9IAbEGY0PJq2rtzq42aFnCDY0vepKSRTX-yg-m1jTQ=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 05 May 2019, 07:45 PM
It is finally clean! After scrubbing and hosing it down, I applied rust converter to some rusty spots and then applied Meguiar's Ultimate Wax by hand. Then I applied 303 Touchless Sealant to really repel dirt so the underside of the car stays clean.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/n9CZQlYnssgQopin_n2hSAc6ETQoFIwuXuJE6fSy2JM--jhrpyPMNFr9Bn6vz2yjb7tzgnb8UfvtLTTqW9c8f5eKwi_JgsY9lO-cYNukIkmi6vrjIwEFl1wf6z9svlo6GfYEIR7NmjyqgbdSDavAsU8bo9yc3Nd2CXyThfBWimst2Bbhd72oDhUk2odh__CN0ZOrQFxRNIbjLNJ4ky-qN1yJZChHDPJg1zn-Q8nuW62HD6bsd4mgEBXEJzcdsrCRjFw7FjbHpm4kl6W80VR7ENETs7UA7D4idQvqsxI4e6m52FHkIKjaDrqej9mfv_7m_PzQ8D5phMpDneGWgbANQfYrTREs__5V9zvZypvx9C5sC1CJ3WheCR_sZxdWCz8u6VrtSsz43q5vPstZLS5d53Wy2tgyBm30gmsEslJ-yU9FeEWIQyG3t74sZ_AMhlNEMmGEIXBw6j-ita_v3W76vEmuINJjXl7jGZuuJZdqGIMr5B3oNYw4hffxd7pHVGW5fJw7YWtbLwX_AThghkw2-i0fuUVK_x9Diq7HEUY9RBG9oIRZ1sB0BXUYwNnTHbitWdCnHpawU79zGPPwZITXXaWPQ1-msVEP3E7SlP8CHAouPo3gl0h6qTfXJzCABIAl0JRUAEboaST0wDHoLW0lC9E8Sc8e6io=w800-h453-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VvFpbKYZmTMjtvAB0gvVj6j8Y4b3Z1gXmhvNNmZVZW5_CyoEErc6Varei6trJxhj4WLHuHWLD_yVyh1AebkpUH_jC6Ngyna2gsso-iwIjUKZtjlqEU7vovw2F7ftdePbg8cXvBTd1namuvQ2ZmDmX0Z2oi48WTs2FH_lrfmyVpGCxL20Et4Rh1Kxs_nqPVGVQ7ZHvIlF3Xu9jtG6VsV8OrhIuKakfAAXDTDUaJRZKuo-LqAqH8fgUFdb7jF8VRjLFvYfTuOY-VDs6iEjJKqzacgwm7wGUNRqkDkXX5w1U83zCvAIFKZCdMmxyp4PfuTpoQfImofMq3XNP7dlKL3lDIbcx98pEWDq4ZTKO56fiQCfEg6W_kCvZfFBJJU9InKcqfZmE3x4C-ZjJEIEbHTpSSa03Hpid2pbzNIY4Ku7UM_xttizObv1F5iwlA43TQbk6gRJ6zDYFA0zr8meUM1BYn9UwU0yuSI2XV71wkLsPsY8CFvQrb5uubkR8aVtC6nYglLBnhtDs9Ahlm-RxCkPsyiAz_B-d1wGUhHrsHMM0jsZnyt1lp3lSr8NVI-fnGv9Pwc6Dqrh7aG00oyLPiiSHKb-e7KnXx09MnnRkxIzGpJJZx83zduMG7lId4eI8LacvJ8m54rnyr4DYHEjsXplmPKZK8ofKFk=w800-h453-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JECJnQKk5Ni-o_8w1vH8W5v-YwPrL9TJelyoNCo5STEX4K1IIGqEgzksNxYZV-ga-6yi9KVhC1m0X-XgF3zpm0SPoTdJjaO28ZL-TbCHGTY1xQPjmyVT6Z8d67Gt-VvuaWvJS-V3whXB1K3sclzZJ6Yz0ernEBkwvDCmLfuXABiS42DTtlcJAN9XjYzCDRD9v74IySOV34NgZI_FS5ufC2scOJ0i7LgJzm8XAaE0i614uiXH5-BQ2hVbMZ43KEQ4NNMXDgDnMjN12kBntZwhrxo0xIes4YnpZPzHb_iZhGpXrgSMzUAuXnMUUrMVqfZ3_-xMgh8_wycXNw0P0xf3CuSt7Wl5tMW0RkTvAt7iOnCPqxzGbZD6juvfTE-UN2dSY0xwX2XW6QOe3kU-E7hUUsbezpH30b9G0pU-hqNuDnBbqfOLaqezg-OV0BasVaditR8ibs40PddwCT5hgDr41blTB4X5jeZv7YjTM1hZTOHiqRaFwQgUiVO__pjIKcMedv1bZhkfl9wnsxQfCG1q2LJ2Wnc2GE__JglBJKjLq3mwiiuM7c5VAnH0ZsJEK2G4hcx0kcbtNIVOBQcVODiQ1VKjRZsYWMER8tKTkHhaumtKxtl5x6u0zxmNULeEEWdNZ_2Y5I6Ceyy4fvApF9my4cI7TE71YOI=w800-h453-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/B25aPZ-dB6PeQDjc-tX4_JNJspujUzZmFe68eRh6ofNIhqNYsREorMR4HWduAxz_YcvGQ4S8UVdbQD5SB8cdovZVy15HPR9PBmdNeVd8Dastx8gVisJnCzDA0ozFFhv3lEGCheiQh6_O9PvdU_7TB-dZGqxO_Zcr-lof2rzuJgpduWUetrUQdkTU-m0qHpqIUKBh_jN2wOi10wzCBg1h9Z_hUTWXD_OxnfnrVIETv-4UZ1yKQmpc1bzo0YHg-Yra3NLp5mqzrJtj-0wn0Bev8GIsIykzxdhPipz8Uzy2SsCamBezLcn7xLRrQuGQSYYIH-mWVT1WvIQ4FN4Wbhe3jkxJ32uMueGjLFx2z1fZpin4NV3nXpIpgIgol9eDvTSqEHhNY1w121bCPyMWYlEckhoFU5Nks4GQMpGkw3GMz1T7RBoyNxKKMx7iy8eRhCysEca7K1Jm1NN0jk8rGyYK4By5h958oUp7444IEstZsly4yqwO4uFidpBXiXtuDczfvqvV-1hl-UvNUINNOpL_OlEEjJPUciJgjksKN0j2d7EeRQCxdUuAGWO0CkAAo92BtCTKKVgT6xWneBwFAxd5nGZjfzhV3IAU492nJlLcSRCQZScV2-ZueVC1JPpv1oxe22yE3c4zMgVnrZblRDcDcYPcLSNuIAw=w800-h453-no)

There's a badly rusted spot in the right rear wheelhouse to which I applied rust converter. It will need attention in the future.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_iZ1x8atfSB1sYP4Nq2M5bpA0405GGl_x622lq0TBkaAQwSFeAXckNQXhSabvV0wlL2jH2uDLa2V6qCAJh9aKkClZLQDeeuNIm7zjmWL3Ia_bltpNC804I5O48agP13D4tvkOcTjLdL4dxJfcJe5YBQXfnb_WADZAoFzeRT1fXt_tJQ6AaO4sMV5ybCfpNi_udS7O8bQz1kprfgkRJrkUoMo1w1_Eg_9eVWxJ67r0TrubfcNMxWDSDZsmDJgYCSFey9JJssEIzRhgpmti-kOGmDeLf4v1DGQjLw_Og18HLVRbIS5zc5Abc3XmJcJCw_yFscRTZDKLSKctCBHA2abzmrPpqKWH91oKGDKhnrVK_H90Pm4lF_tm9vDX7aO-_9_geD1H43RAbRpOXTWLeb2GAaSh6Noj-Hsha363VLqzfDvHCqqr1Y4FiQFW40OcmG8-HZ3Iw5Msfwkv1pq5tNpvSxD5168TFi8h8Xv3MJE-isJHiy2BwtavFnRX9TlT6r4pF-ttgzBpcGjGnTzYI4IkJVHlwJ4j3HBi5GGFU6zPJrdarQsQlNoqNqo7VrAxQxXmSUatAxpuZp0mFO5LFR9QyHCIyMIC59tx6UN2FVYszNFDB_bNSZwKr6FqZpdHz4DEENUlrwtJtGtHA7Vfipu25nSO_OXISg=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: TJ 450 on 06 May 2019, 01:45 AM
Man, that looks great. That is a really unpleasant job without question. That wheel arch rust is pretty typical, at least with the hole there water isn’t trapped behind any longer.

Tim
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: rumb on 06 May 2019, 04:07 AM
That's great to document where the shultz goes on the underside of the car.  Looks great when back to factory with no grime!  Did you replace LSD fiber discs and rear axle carrier bearings?   I'm still in process to do the same work as you just did.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 06 May 2019, 08:22 AM
That's great to document where the shultz goes on the underside of the car.  Looks great when back to factory with no grime!  Did you replace LSD fiber discs and rear axle carrier bearings?   I'm still in process to do the same work as you just did.

This differential isn't limited slip, so it doesn't have any of the fiber washers. The KOYO bearings were in good condition and weren't replaced.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: daantjie on 06 May 2019, 08:50 AM
Nicely done SDOG, I too like to clean as much as I can as I go along, crappy job but the rewards are usually very satisfying 8)  I cannot stand putting a grimy part back on a car, I have to surgically clean it!
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: revilla on 06 May 2019, 10:36 AM
Squiggle,

Amazing progress.  Well done!

Was that rust hole visible before disassembly?
Or you discovered it after taking everything apart?

Asking because I’d like to know whether is something that can be inspected in a running car.  If yes, it should be a point to check when buying a W116 in the future.

Thanks in advance
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 06 May 2019, 01:57 PM
Squiggle,

Amazing progress.  Well done!

Was that rust hole visible before disassembly?
Or you discovered it after taking everything apart?

Asking because I’d like to know whether is something that can be inspected in a running car.  If yes, it should be a point to check when buying a W116 in the future.

Thanks in advance

The rust hole was easily seen, even with the wheel and tire in place.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 18 May 2019, 10:47 AM
I got new rubber grommets for the parking brake cables as the old ones were worn through and the metal was starting to cut into the cables.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vLf7nO8a22WiebiwwHT4Ms_yIMlzLte6wF9o4l67UzzagM_CRl4ARk35mD7wkpUhXbBl5yCi1H0FPoqPo74VNAbDj8xdxU7z1HmkVoK-C2Bhe9tdL7t6xP2E3LFp9wLIBUCPpykSbgwQfEzY-QSMnAaCSQUt-L6JyfJXa9EfaLvupksLK9bIfxwszKVN9-h2LsOi6ey7MI1nvogRxExeNGbxXSQVhULLleuynaEMtCCcrglx-OCBQo74LH9-VT8vCdEWztnkJXScTKvB4neHwKcu6JfohQNcotU7cCwG3kpeMgRo4SsNNjWrWy-kd39OR0dFJ8U0CP1O2ZmN9JKVSrDwgt2IIjSPFttJy5E0HxYFQNsKlk3g2pxuzBO317nQt7lEP1J7B1Fepd6ECONWKxeYjiqakybx8-CZpaja1ZBGmcJ6MY6GpHTYL_YC7lm4WL5CGY6ch8lZNQzGnXyoekTtZYjzYKIkz52-ybRNpAsT-fIY5pWgk7Guo7AMyOOFGtxlfzIqALCvMnzWZusqjfOmCe55d7S2xJ-WK7hEkEk-gylb_fGdtz-3FwDyu3opQj1wEmQQvOA1Obk1xG6T7WtznEmAVmAs8Uj_Io1pwIMPcyoW8i3UtkTdacprOok-6H8VxoLeB6UWxo55MV7Qm8Rq_nHqeZw=w800-h453-no)

I also got new locking nuts and washers for the differential.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wa_8FRac87TFw7a-PK6Y-Y1i7cMp_ajpSn_eO39lDdhnYjCVexewMWdOrMSDv0v8sxR26DpfJlRDR8jo5VbB4Jhf8Cd6LcSayrwndlLCii6dMINvpyLT-l65KDUCUWYLJFI3o7V-MPEA-fj0_opzgm175sn870NpadvGdivfzq53ZXvbmyxbpXhLv2XNtxf0XZeyjIvJCJtZO5bCuy0c2spX33sZjz0BnT6orAb3LXaObgCUalP9Ke6eAOpxz-4KtlNeqiy1pM7OpzZJK-McPVvIbYQ4KnaAC7xUWrByRgk-nPbFTAesWGYeGOXjNLAwFtU7x-fN0Vkn0ri-0-Lb34EtiD6L-9JBXngLAPBmLMVyg2GwzIdIdtJKHSgfeqS9osSQ_TTKuG2wnl4Y7iGSAJkmK9Czc_8_-sP230zwFquYlwWs6MYXxQo4J472qlOpsK3sTikZ_RItLys8aQZJoDUIKkXC-w9GI4l-_FziITa849dxyL9h0obzR488chA3Y8g6OBBRj0w-h-RejOqRHQQDsn5ak12DajPZ3ssgRKnMsJKqzOJeHT-GMH5komfAwREGPOd1rM_ENp4a9ojx0WeBGRtJ5jhE5RaUOiiANf4TFOLfKNtW_n44-8tCD4WrH3cHsfCYhDLpNcwkAAXcaU1yFMSyvOY=w800-h453-no)(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_5wbU-vlDbCH3y-6x0APgr9xx38pMSIv5hayMkdGKuu7jk_f751VJrOu7qgYKMQXZ4BmCI6C6FBoMKy9HNbHgyGtcKko28FwTOncRwNhAYXYDtJGYYtOEVQys6YJgerFXeELb_BFmC1hEiM--H6ptUo89-huktXUbRc46V7A9qhlFh3LZ0LPEPIoG_-Gj0-ado9XvGRMHxaEukKfKq_otnGhmduHFREFMHzXleLe2mVy7UVUwx79XsabUPk5Lbaba652Br-EnAm41YYT9TAy6AfpdU2o24gf1dJdXvXgSloThQ2D6z3NnG9d87jwyYMJiDETBwzFPlus325EtZSujjriJAf5CmHLiRTnEQoJUVqP0nKiSfw43gRbhrXOBR_7rcyapDLrE4-NSsvH2Gs_7nkBbRVANMTQ4TbWiK3qN-6JEgLa2QfxSqKc8ujEcwmj0soLFIuAvT-ALFgdSrAfIGAEOqaJ8QhEFiROVshO3p2gQjTqBkr7oOGpmLjXHKNrfvCaoqnJkqB5SZScruzWUO22etv5C0G72_fR1wVGA4eTRIwQ1DOT5VLLFP1bx7Xxvt-rIxgdni2OjRHE1HfshnilYfBqsgh1xKX5SbV2FYY7NBFli1_2PewSo6rBfJVrFWmJmmPf5l_6YSvrOTG2pSyZdq05CY=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 18 May 2019, 10:48 AM
The remanufactured CVJ axles had little breather tubes pinched in between the boots and the shaft. CVJ said I could remove them if I live in a dusty environment or if I wanted. I grabbed the ends with pliers and noted they stretched out quite a bit, almost to the point of breaking, but with very careful and steady force I pulled them all out and the boots still seem to fit tightly.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jA9-O_on35SCN9yOoON4kiCiEjXdIQG0Fix5zfsA6WcFRfGQD3vhPdwIuyPbp0ecJ9g8x6eklIKH_zqDQ8dAGmCeLkqrr5-Cv0hupMnnMcvHAutWl0oBgfDqkAepAiXaXn4_tTBM57y-bMFsgrUE6oj7KSc_Q5iDIEjSmXfKlpNkU8T2Sk_mJE-PcngEq1z3KIIIhsiUBMQr-rzebz9pkLDZDzohJwsC5XQ3c4O29dL8qKQpX0GBJbBtlWnHB3a7Cd_OinvBfMTKhMAobOEOeQnsCxsUIpuTQ2mtLL8hrXYLVazcL63T9X8GQ1oymv1MsvUb7GFb59MShQqEM901YvCPSz1AedKUI8ZvluumQiF3KNzOLJqMdLAzARW4yCcfBT3wFFdLcZ05bUVloW0AkHH1zEPI4sjrURZq2kHTU_EkcOFrSMP6bZIWxDmZK4jmL247hwHyRwIWFPtK5B2jDGBejLmna529iQI9O3Y74H43Xi9HXiVCiEvzudBxqtlPslh7x88E63ApOcErS_8vVnCZJjt5kCKS49uty0b2Pjd3Ujgd7-P9PsIh_exRADj3mktscFoDf9_a7aKOF7-PFb49geIbYXzp7-tJn3m4gF5HGzluD9JSzBRuM0ctLDhpoItYl_Hrh00R9F7NQkj3069VHRs5sKc=w800-h453-no)

The new clips for attaching the axle shafts into the differential arrived. The old clips were a loose fit and I had hoped that new clips would fit snug and prevent me from having to play around with replacement spacers. Fortunately, the new clips fit nice and snug.

After installing the trailing arms and differential into the subframe, I lifted the trailing arms up to the stop and supported them so I could manipulate the ends of the axle shafts into place. Then I lowered the trailing arms to help seat them.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6ZX0i7cT87oFovt6mhMip7kIodXTmsOICjNyn-MtlhWtw2vEPInysDJjQ984KDzqwPJpltezw1aC3r8iFW1aaK82J6TEEgeyOWxlu0wq0qME3q-3PjVxnnPO1KDOLdEFb7T2ktbsxdyNi_a_yS6mNww1Te3ZMmpLcu9DCzmKz5zW1aRWijyEUZvhufKLH58k5B6dMtDZa_tROvtNs8qzZRwWCCWQch8dwN3logDLrVICqtbeIAhxRFPUX-3NQEQ28AqRffTSwJhfnWOaHZ1rW3KqAUyJ1kL5unDife38LrkFPkcNdgcYfdpriEuBgiwjiU_N7Rda8EN6C7KhnVkfV2W-AOf4iGyCE-QcEqOTRlQv7dGn41mFBOcwi6CJRR_fSU8_SXlmPC_UjUtrb8_lmoV2QCSZNzKDKujsk0tYExmCZFbiGFbciyulmNmQPMWm41H1B3pfNSBrUzekmMqWWWDun3WWzgh2XLQVRR-86tanaCL__bx0mWQHvTlp08CF_-pj4nhSXK4ONzbbDeZkyX65gvo1tRZx71BaghTpjBcgV9FSJIVe2mafnogKHzl7iiEkis7eGEwyfJkj4vzfoRG9qBbvp1bSQ6jYsO-0jBIFuoXFma7BWTPfIOXpwlEAhJqGLmalJ30HxohuID-qX5ZLqj5NiFI=w800-h453-no)

Some gentle taps with a rubber mallet were required to drive the axle shafts into the hubs so the bolt would reach.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/DNv4-hdOnt0DMPOybaqFz8N08FNrR05pKHq-8PRGf5K5LUUNnViANP6ySP_41PKi25A1ukQAYS8QNZybY_OHzFdYNFMZY6bQpccZYo8HHW8Ozr0G2djurRoiKsaa6hLdIm35grYPO0e2wYd0654BVU-KYJregEeaA3K3FhEM1yNnKb1Ef0vdq27PZ6LQ1VlUBqSI7sNVU6dpmE4m9w8F5WyB7drb8Q8fgaXxwyxoRTW7Q1cCirKX5O91HCXrsI5CxWgMnUcAT8q3V8W75lblvj0qKgdWzQJKIx2pYjCIlfb9ymxtcj83y0-cwrmOuEpYcGtcVtEM9NNrZxvw8pqjme2qTmVVOWekeGBf6BS38D_KvScSB46gmiqzjZS9T2af2-2k0sl91qCf4PokN8_7PavxnkLDPqg8gQVystzwb4sIFtMB4rWmmfHI6NT_EeaFqnTHp2ZGGYNXXW4sN53mc-qqHYNELNoFsNdkcakXFNmdRx1zh9ZVTu80NAsLksMC13xlS39obEOqBCE8phvgLjnr600t-bSBksg43ZS91PPyre6SI57gT8XXSZc4OKrDJkEn6fqtViUt6fZZGVX-4WUD6RtMoVNT5Le3_Pz9bqyeM9D7skUweSItd3sWFoHy5Phua3FOGGptnIyNc2jwnhVlvEXehJQ=w800-h453-no)

After the axle shafts were installed (new deformable washers are needed), I checked the trailing arms to make sure the axle shafts were allowing the full range of motion. Then I torqued down the bolts for the trailing arm bushings as it's easier to move the trailing arms beforehand. I used physics to my advantage and tilted the whole assembly back onto the protrusion of the differential cover and rotated it on the cardboard so I could lay it down correct side up onto two moving carts.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mIA-yPgAEej4_ej02Qo5G8_SLb3SeYV4v_Dmz-xVSYhRFv5vUNbh9eDw1321dSRSNSHKP9SJLbUNyD4prjXyd1nvkIUxpAl3ZhpT6ia8bOMtMwujn3fXeWOxgE75MsV_5wNKNw7l91k_34HkJWvaEzxd9Lc8nbpjwR0j7YpXN9WHZ7CuBLSbl_Wvc49qxQAb7_v9brNxIHF-wolIDfl1HPzvnqLHyfbFJTmqZvMiZiePlQFAbmDfU6vmWRtV2MqhIppXGfYuuXRnhF_3tQpMOM_QPAGx775pl2doVZKIrazRlN5MaK9AmaJLYKdXXLQ9Kcdftt-hq57saTFrmCbJEPvhW2UiC3E4jh9S0xXfthC6N6OnVvjBOYaq88VHNiDJt11nSfCVQOGAfTJuAKSKKxrf5zruxbyUIq9t2tzhZRivUpQO0t596m1N8AX1D6-q843VW6gUfemN48qXX4XiuHNLXIEjJAikDt-PqTifCi9gv7YKzDi0K5X71B6EWqsduKk65uLJyhmgFNvrhF69q8fIJCc-cszDg7Krfdqf1-67M6KOjLJKiZrR17WamtTA8FXP6s2ck-xkNCJG4zkhw-b9moC_nJjBtdm-h5J1kHPJTlqWThlT4Ot34XtIXAUFXjlBsFI5Q4xqTN-p5c2cEMb0lVTzvKQ=w800-h453-no)

I noticed that the threaded differential mounting tabs had small rocks and dirt underneath them which wasn't allowing them to fit flat against the sheet metal, and no doubt would have caused mounting issues. So, I removed them, soaked them in Evapo-Rust, and then cleaned out the body with a pick and compressed air. The compressed air worked well for blowing out all the dust and dirt from the body channels.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HMgg2QvqfjlS0NVk0IlQMN-iVqG7WA5YVikZCacWsYKYhFmhOGDVOsKalLIKQ4xcqI-enkaMK3Gjbpwc-guNA97nlEqHMKvk4ue_dgQaHv8dzzcXYquc2AGwuMwjrztqxSxVSakcUfnEyTRh54-At68plhPYmx_eNme-er-K4umUBKOpeOUB4Lf6MXAJtgpv66-McR9-mvho3Rio0JrAVnWM4E6yRx5H7ex1b_2dvZaxVFkUEyMldkWMsSXtAOOupdbFoBcOH-Dbp9mxXMwq2enzEYnI3jmEysKJLKpf7nzSG6fCs8t0ICVC_Xq8MTg9UfSxUNOYbu7j2yJP3jO5vfUdBaVjYigr_towfmcHMJvdUgTyrdOrfg_UZtaUlAmAAYC1CUXfa0eoAzDKOq0ExehSEB5FcKB-gdn_f5VCBv7E6a-8iVs3BmtU0h-yExIavDyoTqSxa6j55T2BpQRo9GaVWTzx4cqfpSXf9voLmdzthtuoMsfaS8pSRcwSMOxamND57-Q_Z68iThSJjmWEh3aH8Nlyj48D35G9j8b83hDxiepMRe1nckJ8o5hWxn2Rg5Zy3ldZ80hQN2UwCf9Iif2o8kNVaNxi3WneMg3vXKZvYgBPM7p_mrZyuFnXgwjnO9SBh_bw8f0f5gpeodbDZh_x5YweHvo=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 18 May 2019, 10:49 AM
Installing the rear axle assembly by myself was easy with the proper technique. I rolled the assembly back to the vehicle on the carts.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/YygxGswr9tNoHOKNa6uocvFxfJKOZs7rOBn0bFKwkfghiDZrsL1Xx-N1U6wtM1mPTNOgF6q-6b7Ugk0DU9Io99khKHdNGeW-eq9BDAwgthzhqg58ZExxbe3LweH5bHLJ96GplEOmWtOSh3DMDFsKhAKUkjlp_btH2Ug9Dq8synz7--8Af7mqUNx2A22iDABeFO5I5m-mWTEKFEJSaZR0Cgg0LLyZpsbNnOWGtVspc3a9Jc845WndlizHLCwUsg2-UQBaWnxoytyLx5kYIWxk3Bu2cO_9FiUb4oVARWIF5zU8TqCZbtPsdSnqLfcFo4H_A9L0132V5qOflFUvEh7U6TS3NDCgQjU54j3OrlNfvInPojPj5hmQH9lgoWF7tAPFlqruyECt8axVUsSI7f276iD1qR4rgHkkPl5rJVqAiG6yCZrUDOJRuqUIhaIYD_e3lpSsYTsOgcK_IKjypmbjtIl3z-lEES-c_6gKkDcYhVYlppV1_bcvBPfDSIPKLiSGWO3D5AwF2Bp72opNBSH1PayN93zL9V_BTPlXw4aASqSnxqdS5dryF6uI06e2ZNUgnMsCfn52dA9MgwfOvhh5oXx2O_TuU05xkQ4ty1b1_MAu9AGYBsfyQzy_XX0fkSOpsgIpvGsN4-4dhCqojKceU7gnc2KV29M=w800-h453-no)

Then I slid it underneath the vehicle until I bumped into the exhaust. I put a moving blanket over the exhaust system, and with the left rear hub floating over the top of it, I lifted up the rear axle assembly enough to slide out one of the carts so the assembly was now resting on the exhaust. From there I was able to center the assembly by sliding it into place.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4LhYDZ98QbG62m4vpM-2aV0vXDsCltEjmDgAEled9slpUWz2phtIGKvBiZZg-XB_1l8_0vsmW3sfnmlS8f41fWE4bfcNujvEqZor9ft9BZf5P8V2xhvMrYTWf27OCkifC5XLA9ll4jjFR9-1o1mLfGjqzqjmqNRa4VrBK440AgdIe5srE_ABnVNmvnbiAleHBGPJR1VBW2hRipBFl9i7Ji7o_1ogX-ciaDcxlMXPw6wshPmIgXuJHYHZs6gnjNzTMTaH_jkEQ0yqqgCc2Aly6kwpAE3HRHBbAH4QYAVRPB5x9x40hDDqABX3P6dTDl2GDZo2WPfn548wz1K18olcC-943TaGP-RyfHLW88TwTCLieb1RpnL1hc1SeN8hXrkwiKke85Di686tJD1Wq8zAS1ZNYYQ3pYQ74dCeUbMJZngAM-kZaNyxR0mfxmFa-qABBsYvj9sIyz4fKxqIf0NrxbougXWf1m0aOarb2rlx7pU0da7_vh5-WNeq7k8JVjM8Uo9yBtX74GzbmkCjqV8kSfd71kHQoDaaJ2xbvvz2NnC9KveK7VEeFrSTZCfqSsrqKzxMwAZAvrCRQzrfNGc0UizkTQMyTQlvAtNuVa7FJc4dDYSZILc_FIVABgGrl0PGrfN-T4cTkyWiF7OYFkKtCzCyhGYJBuw=w800-h453-no)(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Vv9OEnZwmcdHJM_661cNDn6XNsf_dPP7_4oRI-oCmcjmLqkZF48VXLMCsCycAXdyGQUoag-ggr_3oTA12W2SOc4GtTmO08566PMUt2fGBC2A5-XPjIfjgMYivepca_aynVXWLT9HD9HPT1wqtsZUhsDJrYZ2JwxT6nvh0in6pg32yZWaJXcufrQ7h2tprXhCBjDQ3lGx1e6AcOhWaZpYS0XKM1YbkyoQjpqIgVKFpT0TsOdTlwlea22qQZA08s2ffTMmhQjCho_FnAIVqBgnvXAIduQkCni7gXpvASpE3RPFv9eyggCQtM5abLXRtluqHuOl29SLj2J6H7UjKQhV71G6Wu-m8NU8VKvzou7okcSIRWIcEQp40Y8fmiTI10En1M-s0sAtwxwTSbWUuB2jH2Ql_nTofsD8y2-QCxFoDvSOzaMU-VpGfmM11CLGu6jyOBzxdebygz3FDb4Ze7QGhMxbWXXodn-XD9DpHbT9ToE0VJhZ6lJcRu3Ei8I10r7rzmderxVG3kdqjFtexDnLEcyLTm2nfdh0PyHMUk0RHc6Hs6737D5AXWNKGHoan27PMtQdFUvoPIcVGjLIRWT5ORd2VtoB9wtN5oX_NRfZb3_ixoHThJyUQe-wtYZjyiJ1HpzlQx0aMk_029L5dhiQP-SM9_AiquU=w800-h453-no)

I got new springs and spacers for the rear. I figured it's now or never.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ebfuCRc7kQEMfh-SYSHEe8Y55-ske0KCVT8hjBZTZFN2UVjwp9OORcOxN9lKXZoGbFuvyHBuVtCxADGorX7X7E9QOKYQyTnbBKQcmFVSo16ldswnuCQicL1wjIDGi4iYTdl-Rlele9HjGibCJ_FFOhrZD_9bROcNiqAW9fQ7UowW8BxyvB2QO9WJqquWzf38wgm2SRyYey2At_A8XDEt2rjObfDjfzpA_2PALi0gpAkJ6ZGIJtJhfA3zvPa5eQgH_Omf2TKcqz8mLHUcvg9tJ6-a5SqWSZ2_sEGzpoFHv5gofO98_yS0-30GtSEttzBVtsDOKWeIWEL62tqhYPpD-zv1IRNXG5QU0HSIZXlRxnNPUaq-VONX09LswLNDzNzdvYCv4Hfa900EACY--a8jXGfpjgHUM8nXZfWt16GbSDo1YGdWxjRslRU7etd38XzNQKzulg3SEwmS3FULddbImVeqa4RT1L4-9Zu0ik5dWS7staqmYoB0yd6muwiudCGOtgGob81-p2WrcQHudNcigaDPBXFGHfnvlNe46Io1mRbTNeojY5vhSXWZPzl-GXDlkapOInJkUxAizs2O9djIsRagYg1NIE-LKxZ2eXdIjciZYCcdsOBpeFWQ7QLYJKENsn6oP269BJHLuUuUKXoBt1oi-EK67a0=w800-h453-no)

The old springs actually don't seem like they lost any height and were probably fine, but I think the front left spring is sagging and if I have to replace the fronts anyway, I might as well do the rears, too.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pbuud-NFEwz3RXGbWEkxhOiVd3z6m4QkAHO2ITxtWDVVMxDRPYn-qBxtjvHiJ9xyqJcY7EBYXqwo4GHGHUQVta8iSVGZ4ij66lCEn7BuPpYHZ3mgWYYM6FPXjffizT_sM_zyuKiZOMXH75bEOWpOUH1-hovxJOqUTiCw8l9AlQ73TN1sw5IOjV9gU69cRYcZC6OSJ7sKkDlbT-u477HICDkW_PeyIlAMotvMm-b_7wYAs772174DOM0r6t-CWC5JLSBioma3bgDTYOAPwR3n-QTNAz7wMmy_6DSHr_krLr_iS6p_Gz58bp2tSiuLFJH3pKGuyRcfGgvVElZLM4iJSeXknCTPYrSmOxSQLTkU_-OdqXUQ5ASX_DuPxoNXH76fgQ2YDgdAe76DCA0cMxB0VfbRg_LJScVwi6Leo-5vuBvkAnAe9p_gDYjvZpIsFj3QYPD8u-VmSfyvIz-H_Lhd1wyr_mM-NEUp4KvcawE_sUSXp-iPWHoffPQWi5iZ5J5NI-XsIDxF-b2qm3geLEAEY7j_trGoUJ8AB0FWRhsUNSAWz55o2hIe1jwpyqHftOj9S5ucQOQzdF9U4fHSnyXCkIu8XB243TXnTcFIJm3CT1lZ5BVCJO9eRj0txUZ8FdXbYAhZL9CjNXWSqVL5rqYTenWIVTUSxDM=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 18 May 2019, 10:50 AM
A new rear subframe mounting kit was installed. It went in easily with dish soap and the pressure of the jack.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4IJcH_26Gal0U3XqYj0wZT7-TLZxzHqht3yOUoGl7LzD9edy7IVbMniLM4ozpW9rBc7KWcZ0kJT9DqjXOfOxg2K3PcfJRfjBuU3vuJ4ZQMW0dME2NdPaFwubTTLwC6Y14custER8CZyj3KNUv3FcIH41M1OrTGCxZCpUqn3hd_VsThX5bmdcKnYE3jbVX973IJ8SI_taFYQnjTlGSz8w0751wu_vozabOik1OA3ZQcfUqnLiIbsJTHex1IBNuTwQIEDhGhB1pNTlm0CMSVFWeGauy4lmk7t_wWVKZHgrxvXZhMqf1UXiBkM5MemWVL_AwfTXr4Q9dJTz8ta-_pVY0AwKYNye5IR2YxC_3HF0UlTcbNLg50HPV2hloyFZXRowy1oNd7nfdXmzqwCqiZ7Z8maFZyk7sci2txBlukBAQXfrhqGH_g5VYxImkALU2Tbte_E05JWNgoejbACquF5L-b8rZY7Ft3tI6YJyiIQshkmrZhhvsiehKrg3TY1quUrUPmiYVc8u-1_7OWfJBzqyfM-NleNbaBpLxdNOe1KMfQcC5J_9BuKgitN6NQYUE_PDyWJ5hBO7cI0HPsF_7n_3lrK9ZAg50MJtuKV3Or1MkfbDq515FRWZVvX3Rw9qKiAoQOajBD8W18yODXcvSOkkedm7AE50Jy8=w800-h453-no)

I lifted up the rear axle assembly enough to slide a jack underneath the differential and then lifted it up high enough to lift up each end of the subframe with separate jacks so I could get the mounts in position. Getting the assembly perfectly positioned was tricky, but I got the differential and subframe mounts installed.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HKlwXi8D1rNHRWExZ429IAF9UcETzN-dWotzkejIvKF8XmF00Z0JsHPoB39oF_3JawKGMXwRecU2gqdQ7MYwP19hUTavu5fRP3fzJUQwLhTLt4VLCVOOU3WKPFSSJa6e3bCZitjxTmOlY0QL3U_bFS-ahW2xuYuKVr5P_L1C2lyE4gqAWak9mUkTJYMzhoW05rfBblSqOnifd5DZJtHwybRU49Sp1YE1-9yJ7f1AIukAA758LivUDXXuyMQVl5UKbezZMN3EsIaszkrsh9-ZaUpVz1vmOWesX38C47ANP0GTuBsmBpeGUALHioKXq_2pJJie6v2-b1RhUZuOPSv6UGx0kwcpx0OtmbB6KlBhL9XluXu1TawWSZV34KJFuiAxUGwZyNm1I_xEhZb0bzuw0cL8mr6diSpC1US-h4NrgnrpNB0CCxUQ6xI-oMKJHnIxrqm6t-VB83t3AU_thWWEDflFM7yH61l2SRQ7XTAUFzsjD3c5hvVOt99O77vcSynj_7MOsIf6xr1xzxBcEHvsuEDvXFfH9GWvS1XtMFcoQCaq4wfveMUxCkBtOhcQHol3V3mnnHwfilfI1xmAPhOPxghN0JfEwzpMsvHU08yKJpVhZVov2MvH3SOJGMFg0JBE4E9xl4hqP0wCYGvvjR9ByQT7-AK2SNk=w800-h453-no)

I made sure to fill the differential before I forgot. Nothing but the best synthetic fluids allowed!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xH_rn8ermASegA919wY09RKZXzjCRyjSNwqTUkKx6gpGOBHWMD33L6HbOTFdHmtyslT9tPQlHwsMHoNQNlhE5GXy4DDWv3kgFFrf-Gs3FbgCrpNLQWqZZNZ4lGoVFdoHzw0G4-VUipRreTNaV_1EkWon_jIwuPIP_fL-l_Fa-xsAgMs7x2PYxpvooSaoWln8azZxMSN_dUvMXhBQLJ1PigXG4hv91mqmFhWm0McoVC-ep_DoQNp_UrtuSu2lp6vIMWfAzTXWSBisWIfwn7QKhFfI0oEtUeoBTB9fOwpn_OvzFWnlyU4zS95yH2TGs-7uwD8zoJTsxzOXkoKsmewzCxoM2LyqWyxGDipJr_eSWKf2ajqcPY7vKigdp2RMW36EeTEeVetLITvIWQWGdRNtmdee9YJJX8Vgeod7RV92eu0Z6wnJNF3k6n9i1ZXAFTbYN8iWxXeIs3i7cfj840poG41FA8i_8NaXq53gHqjb4_ClvlTzMSBN2oYiib1VHKzLAZzEv87COFoS7T-VBopbv4jo4ETuRpYjBlIFVDIFQN82RcweEtst4M8Jr3avvqC4zEmWvO4giF0V-_dn_QPayqNEuDej5sg7WdpEQqBku4b0AAgiY8X5lMR4vdX3ax-z9O35HI5XBT6jjpxvwwEGw36rTVRMBgU=w800-h453-no)

The shock absorbers are now installed and the vehicle is resting again on all four wheels. Now I can take a break and work on some other projects before I start back on installing the driveshaft and buttoning up the rear end.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kj97eB1Bg_TWa_jzpjwR7s8ACdUwOutoSPXR0PMLulu7gHizfFjTkxJ32FMbAaq121yO4207KYQxL5DbsrxCN2HcMG1mL0fGk3OVySzfVeMXXrPTLwNsjq2EW-nAJe2PDyFZw6X79BRi8PEQWvobr0_MHAmwrcdXb1Hj1idgvMvwj00Fta8hKXCanleFJq8uRJ_YrZ1sYXIKDmOcvCtXhyAfmLLph4KoWJv8CogsxFG1xxvbUlZ8His_UamuYU-jFLtHBOV1zgr7v33QZdxrgrHx9ZYje5ZMv5TTUCaWd8qt9NYIm6vFitC_e2ltiKtlGNJ8pEu6__C2B1tYWAS-e5NEmTTiBBOt06jdHIzzTc6_ZdGKwqI6m-yDwD83m3N4akh2FatG12nRulieUERaMxK5jZX0TYJqYhfd3Qg8UGfkxvcF3LPkyRO8udSYBTXWRf60ukgEJSmU8xT_mv5CXLb5vHrvjZ0D8paBxS7w_Aikpf1xGvrLcngXXwpQzHIkuulp35ZQ92ffGT9Aa6M0Z1husnOqyRjJytem1pHOWJ1oSRq5RXdsoIgejMWRQwHj1gay49pV6L5BmlU35p01YcLbTS_lB3VSAWXAFjpEUReg0t10nSjIHMbR5BDf5swLp6brWIKSCQxZOgWtlYiQFJm1i127dSE=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: daantjie on 18 May 2019, 11:02 AM
Stellar work ;)!
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: revilla on 19 May 2019, 01:29 PM
Outstanding results SD!

I’m so FAR from being able to overhaul my axles. But your post is inspiring!  One day...

Not only you always explain the ‘what’ but the ‘how’ as well. If you deviate from the STD procedure you explain why. That makes the difference. Thanks.

Good luck with your next steps.

Robert




Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: floyd111 on 19 May 2019, 06:56 PM
 I am gonna call my lawyer. With this quality of work I got a case getting you extradited to Taiwan!
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Harv on 20 May 2019, 08:37 AM
I can't imagine how smooth that thing is going to ride.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: ptashek on 21 May 2019, 03:28 PM
I've always been a huge fan of your work SD, but this is stellar work, especially for a one-man job in what appears to be your driveway!? :)
Maybe you should hook up with that Pierre Hedary guy and do a Youtube feature about DIY maintenance of the W116 :)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 11 June 2019, 10:11 PM
The new rear subframe mounts aren't collapsed as were the originals.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MCU7DVYID6skilok8flVCgn8B50utZ4-3fPMbhqTDFxDF9PxMgXyhIrkB8sYHrDfr8j15J5VVzf8_syiej5B5g2jJCDg08zkOBXkYMBaOlDeQF2BBvBgLQo2lc5Y4oEu_k4fmlKiYsEAu4ybanzba2UDZyGkE6TwNI7qSR2dtoDQ0sOiLgJwguwb2O0uglzCKn8jQihmeRHuFBF5OJYMAAhNgO_-GdxdZXpqKainUH9v2rUsdWcJTUMtEC7KiGwK1iFsLvdK4mCjJmnZlun9jFBoxM4YGgZ6JrsoMZ7pqG337bU0NqrdocFVmSn6imu7sFQhHkPnRIE05O3PPx7ar67UrrNmX9MhRECVJKLsp0j0TRaT213g2afrjfmA7r2Ie8nPPcpcM-os7I51E5aVxfI6SvkCCZhR9xNiS6q2SBDE1OT0Z8sQ1TOV2X18VieX-vS366VRu0ncwKePRsz0ZZtyYYJ-vlFYTM08j8lPsgilJZC3mJB5yu2I6atvpX4bn-IxhdfHT3cuFAqNQ8sqjkhy2W3axaUxib5RphLaH-1PUDWDqtghuE8iC3Itw-wNCNVr3Zg-psfvMwu8jGUIU8BtmpZnK69eGE2XPvmGt1XJUX0y-q9N2wXZdtIqDFDyNFeGBIM1LT-Va9u3EU5qFSSifGMs2l0=w800-h453-no)

The rubber seals of the driveshaft centering sleeves were damaged, so I replaced them. I drilled a hole through them and then hammered an old ratchet handle into the hole. I cleaned around the interface area, applied Deep Creep penetrating oil, and put a long prybar at each end and rocked the prybars back and forth until after much effort the sleeves started to slide out. It took much persistence. "I want to break free!"
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iDtT-pgtvplo-WNC2F0sVhSCxUhgz3aKj1ymeMUregDv_yrN_WMWsl-93I-ED0tQWScrUebq1FUwfe-fqH3NU_4yBXiriAOHC9ZNXYhUJGIcFYV1UeBVkTxxViBD8rWigtjHhL_Sce2cDq5y_N_zcvhHYxuvETaMQYmDhmvvSZioZSUEqHXz7SvmhsnsD01Q8OarcpegBB9yqWLf-szuCIe9VOkh8sXcsqpz7gjPw455g_oILNbVeEnuY55P08blIih1raOtSkHX2c8QX2zY3SLL1wsA0Vd2GXQsN8lF3FdtcMy3Z8LjyUzooWsvUoPb-Ipahu4hxNYyHntxwAQh__uXBdAl_6y1XOWq4bEM0W0u6qQO33s3yfetYZlytXZa8L2RVsLxXhPuVWB5b1-SwYIkZOv72q-C5HzGjcVNE-FRGUJC_jL3vm81PL1_Sr5qvh0pYM5-TvaViYOip5_gLWKqprmHM6Prqp4NLOLZwajhLKMk6_T0bOXAh-X-NxVIukxa2uYxyp3hDJk0eH3WstHlUZ10OSzwMcTLaQco3S_4C1XMTQh5cdOcDqi583IfQrgVIm70lHJtLnCCMnf3ZjeGTlUPJplvNH9F_dUbXW7rBCUCKx6WV6iegG4EPHCG-D5h5Y7niYjfp9fu9vDWIjmkM2ue6Ds=w800-h453-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VQ5mcOTJDwX4DFLek6CjlXXVYtFC8b_9WPgjsNwBPiyDluxJMlJEKDRhXFwvZquT07RzPdn2ey9B2un_NAVZGGuU4VARZy6ZaYddmxvqfp5Lxvdw0VgVxh2btBgatwSLjLUkF--f-W9Y8HPkgOV-vmXgSa02D2mqhQbtWWC8A7g9umfYKHbq6D6igexQzJ7ioG4xcnkDsqq9qa5VVaJ8MCGSSFUU96fDJnmK4_p7bZJyJTRcsTfO4El4SsFXfbjBaLEP-nlb4bznBhsw753qB63sBFwwczcxfY9MW4js7_GzkbKQYNqG-AVL6RIVDA49Rf9fQqyRmiOJoN6TKepakEYkJD6bgHmjvXRO-KZNAIU7NcMTyBOmvDO51mi9yIlclQA2-2aRXQuIaaphqe_1jUNR5OP_3zubZUVB0VK7qBZgYeZOnMQU9LIMnqtrqe1bba2UsBD093yHnILBHPUacgt13WFaw0pIvkGQXeQ2aNCOdSTWPZA_8Jbq6UnkqbdRRWZCTyHwtzbBvo_c9gNJzuPNeA9ugQ0k55OabYrT1mcjwhVYmboGfwytiuktpuCd4TuzgBCozBZpOF0aAFJEgPZAmGVaZUoUn8uK-vPb0YUT_iJ0wOi2Z9trAF3cX95m90Stab6G_ZsBbB_L1oTFWwBPZnQMb4I=w800-h453-no)

I sacrificed one of the old flex discs to make a tool for pressing in the new centering sleeves. There is a large washer in between, and it bent in the process.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MZfHD2aVBZ4nDlaojrHq20ehbwndqZDqvUxllYmJyPC5--hwKcpPtU0S_MiTAcVQUOnDrsAZ1RqfQmDuSTHP_jVvmx9xQ6TbPsxzUS89V9mYkE8d0ulm_GIMekq_Y_Fj_rJ1RQMVcDDfRcHElV79_vOSvS4IgK64mmQaaQgW6h0GTjYAayNmvO-fT_Mqpca8LCbcXMTek23M9LOmdYoMm1gQF35Vyu0Yr0tQMXcErzE5eUDaPMuNYp0IQ9gTCuIenssVn317oJ-KLi0gcIG8kFpAFgcswlPB-A0wOYcjDwR0-XPnrnfLAHxl5PgdXwQN2u7-LlvhLcMZhM2xtg-tNHPjuhgpqRyVjINUnZW8ht38r14Zqm4UhJEse2ojx_lgbRp42Jcqz49CJSqKw0-m_8Ro_qsIwa77OHla6PQNOHAf7KPS5ibJWANj-bwlCns7fi1QMTxrUTLi-WBUUR62zgHCp5pTTXWWsLnI-R9f4LJzf8mJ7eXiKZxFfwycKQ9ZraW8dAWpkoQvCAJjbnsP58V1uHyx_tjbzaBNEyAim4Mj3rtX-0ITqI-22oTJnDmtvIMYgDb_CNSqKr3aJYu8Ra-xj1BWna6gsEOqCv0h8IJK-dSC1PWKV2ySs81mpq0qDVoXUKLQR2OWeVr8OsT20Hnc9jT9_I4=w800-h453-no)

After the sleeves were sunken in, I hammered them down to make sure they were fully seated.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sa8w2Ck1iqGNVf6BvxjobxFyPmLPnJXCncAXdNClXodQ2-xgRob_dzivfFHwD7xj4z_mZih61fvQSlvx-OxWdw69hPmraAYkzpVJjtIWhvDp8ZODhoCVEyiZ5PS7BOG0dMz8b3odUE0-jh3XWNNbA9YecsWguNtL8GkX2HcZx-cSX1C6-oNb8xmn61q8ze4ygIA2H4IdzDbp75x0M-MB78U17Dn63hTYtT94VIINtcxQnV5dTEEp4EvhsNE8gnsS8fJeIJmv2DVDWmdatvFAYgkf7HMXTYPbytqADGYXwJgUjUcNY-Cc0m3g5MKNRkj3PMiuEO2N5tykKK_CIQMlqiQcx7E0op4mDv8mbPE3uZH2eSgDUNwgDz9v27ksYZyixhWZku7PS5L4k7lzj8FSpnLosA4pwM-fniuu22RGvSLXUuGO24exs4I-AdVtX6zPYee-Ezr-a0UJPDaQY_pP_f8IQEZ453IGBjDoTveD7g0_B1-rrW4UPToAqklPueDK6jKwunbRJw4IR68Wu-qPnFni9ja1_mn2exT0C5J-WgYQgkQCxA6_dFDJtIkokMga6cuTlCAH2tWjZiy_iXq4EQjJ7zfsGuIKXOKW2bqa830L8M12i04Q0TvrHQs44FZqBRgKgCx3w_19NnIvaBcff2mRgUMAUbc=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 11 June 2019, 10:22 PM
I ordered new genuine Mercedes flex discs. Comparing them next to one of the old German-made Lemförders, they look almost identical other than the genuine Mercedes ones having the star logo and part number. They are probably made by the same company in the same factory, but in different molds and possibly with different rubber compounds.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fSdU0xGSyi8jOe6C3QMjoPGB-P14mKNpsCLUG7wEOFPEEXjWGP3KUk7qsz9lchXDFAXB7JO-oo5mNQ_GxmCWY1OGdr__Z8_7fdFbm0JOcj4btmZw0Yt20CmUIRdhzO-_8UyVcqIeTYymOg5TSbwHgTfpv1QJ0x6_lAo4JWQdy6dOJYqkJImrB3toS6LGqpdzbvJiF8Tk_u546yG7ExssEoypA6ADVC0Vkw2CobehqLmUJGBAifWUWQtHxL60zMthVZCNyrNhldC3Li74JMjTdN3nBlx-Q4Y9MGkFvXpSNgV-U8w40NL5muKz819NecDbe8jWMBmYCVV7MQ8WNVlRnkS2PYRTfEi8rw5JChnA9-v4Qki5uXPPGcVdTVGWDWmKdwdcwVU8Ygi-Cw1FvPt-IpLzgdNb9hxFMWFBDm2rhDnd_G6RrCs2LBdb1loyjiQ-Kul5PPl0BzsX5fzKfz_H2YwWejvu1RQR0IE7ZLdDBrCPtAA2sxuMHr66qAtDYHaLkJo3wcVJ4TrYdFu670uHEYKrkJ9_luntewJGfT6uWzmjO8qKBQwjbg40D7z9x1tLmlVzOuyQH1UKSSrfFK3Kw17m-JTh7ACdYz3r242ewKLDA20KwLd1LQocP0fQ0Qg7fwdNB_MfI7HQSwWuWbmWRI0H2VnU9W0=w800-h453-no)

The new bearing pressed into the driveshaft support by hand.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8887M8Szt8yE8Hu4b_O-NywcxHv2MhvIpd9ocqFht1tHaJxACfTLhdD_vWqtNgBCSIh6bGOubRkFU8pFHS0TYQmFyTm6iIoIpKN_UdxinO9FuDrvWdL1k3s3PpU9DuKR9LF-9fBSTPWZsT2Ugxi8OHUIhx9diY3FGyrP8JAy8_1U2lPykWrAuuQRybd1qBkG-AWm0om0zZEfkTV0GGBCQZB9gFB48KPzv56fW7S1WNUYuphGdtEWWZIGzzCGrMprkI-EiFZgB2RMUeG1ZVlGjQoPC21d67NCyVLIBoAIhXaE2IGjiuhuaSbZ7-Xri48N7iI2eKwckVLOUbhsfMiq7oYq6gcuoKLWAwIGPnOjBQUxjJUbyZPdWq4UyrJh-ZUmEIq2A9Dqqy-Ul2yW4qiFVvvaImi-gofMch99AQXCEATkv-bLyHveqcGFTiST_erHREbTkh04HjdMVQdWShXkIMSiZpWTjrJlPiZcH8IbDeQtbojqmtRTZJJJEpcOKPHyMGa8GVe7Ki_3Nljs2uj9EXnWjULgE2FIv_W70j2L78Wggkw9Fsk4wVz0fO9bYGZSgx7Ww52mvNCHLGuVB92lLKBXbi6vp_L8uJay-IW7lM773TGBHWkKiC1JcUty1eLxAXnoeg_OjmnvQ-tGdB2u1gPTLGaOvN8=w800-h453-no)

I put a film of automatic transmission fluid on the driveshaft and then carefully tapped down the bearing with a wide flat blade screwdriver and a hammer, alternating from side to side and making sure not to slip and punch into the bearing's seal. I also squoze the driveshaft between my legs to support it so the new centering sleeve wouldn't be hammered too hard against the block of wood on the ground.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WECgRMqgsCWYXZONf4zaDExW4EBfz4U5XiosQBCeFbGDp7qM5szlR_-glhRIOKtnS5iqBImw7LlA9NQUhX1fdXHwtAZZbTEhxZ1WVOL4q1Fs6iH4AfOXj2sYYqI1X-Twbo888dqTHIlYWdbekQU2b4_u56V3Ug6Nr3qzVAENbOcDuaBODoVJzKebqHcrDfUE8LiowqY54cc96cbSKnQwT64T7BbVD59mwX-JT4WxBEhpVCo05YCuM20J3CL2aFmFN3DI-6FQnIYe7SbmKU2RNkM-D-bxXubR6jEj4otdHV2bB9nzLvRlEKxWtN6PUbZti_zWXZmnhVWnmhqEfYqjHGy-2UwkSs4iOL_ZAAHpj5LvZKsIIWy4BGU-ZQIukvm4Mlq6wuuhR1K6t2XgRS1oCdKafROueAF44wrE8vOEOzPnG7s1wkFBMgJB2f_mtnBol7XdvH1tW96WDaBIKbV25OEkolIupHhTPhUCx5QfUVqe-r7B48HG4sagsx8fjbeVztV9Eef5_ICydnuKcIvdem1zV6LRcTVIdjh2LQWhg8iNDroUJQl93-3srCS5oD6OWzyraCsTYjLT_iOGcCEWmlAr3qLef84-ORdJRazdPQqpUywYL5-9cm3KevapbDU_DVNFXBwWaJ-wos41HiJC8d5ONShtno=w800-h453-no)

I don't have a good set of snap ring pliers and I destroyed the original snap ring and shields in the process. I ordered new ones and slid them down into place.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/891aoWYtdOrHtZbkPZuII4t4F6lL17d0twoh78OdDcjNM-Myw_EvbxES_kt3JC_BERxdpnzBzOwUABft_ZQw6gLt2H19hwy52FI1jF6w3WpUsKixuWZRzTE0Upw4PZTywsd6CsBFvDfxCy7QtdLTU8zRQ99KqKVgO5g5m2h4P0RunZ9W3AP3J0qHTgDFBhtiWW6b248EmNDcfG_DDdAVO2aadnvbmDtlZvVonTExyYB8ul2QrvActdLEZCpZivefevpqj6bd4tZtzsEIBLIfPAmzsqiEqO4TKEGUN7o0xSuhoxxPka6s2RtuYQFfih8Nus0L9k_6ggrFl2Y6xcbhIvRTk3BNxcazODMqHjsIRc73hN9wOB_l5HPhbn4Rl51GDhalX5vstNEs-kD_wb2pT7KKQji-S34i9K1MHQ_kfAyKQc2lyNFCDvEU_1hoZWpZ1nZbCz9yUiCzz2E2R1yMCJR9K0IexPlHvCrZlBmTfHg6qvDiIh9fWhpCEbBhcABl0NGj4y1Ovyma7DICUw9y8_Aff44oq3izl2K1kfpWtiWOldLeltmydqosznVqZrRQ63efrcnX71tfqb3Fj7GaPPNqOZQLqcClKs-oz0sSF9zbvk8aJ-P01ZRbTfXpic-VX8lSfABcR2s1n2Rp_SVINZQQdkLy8Kk=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 11 June 2019, 10:31 PM
I greased the splines of the driveshaft halves, assembled them together noting they went back in the same orientation as they were removed (so as to not disturb the balance), and installed a new rubber boot.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wwcmO0R_yKoblpKxaI0_Lp3nMwVOXlcSA6aNnMd_qEbKJ2lAYDdLfsR1JPxZ6aJztv17rVoqggLlw1ylPz-3Hkl-jt-yzsJRAbwYYCeUmHNbmm5CtsoowG-18Gl5lzexvAMhUxtzjdzVO8_2GUOkAn7ZdJbeEG6tjG2-yl5sXKA5_BYt9BlxZEvOCWe7Ydafc4iVNglHjYeMRjnEXt9E81Xy1AhFBsartdw27brJ4tRHXOBOsiJSKf1qLeAVDx7JdcPdM9EySsVUtBDvIWoUEs8jme23VtdnKWDAtlX9Nb-IITnfH6yd1KrDdeDN9KUBwkJ8u1T-2oACLyWLbDYnKHETzxhc3qyi8gH1i2B3mCT-exD3pSkmeHrWgIuovhzLh8gjssxDvYN38wts1zWdp_KqY2ZRj2MDrmpWUpz3h8iP_HtLTyDBlcPW8EzgKyVqsDQaq7GMwNAj1CLu9vLaif1UxfkZnpJaqO0qPDl4gz_xbLH3WSczC_3FMRGHg8GJ8PE5fW6dGfTQwXZv6E2rkoKmbPZ6jiU-DXfSsPWtmZEVeDM839ddNKIX_LD5yORu1ODLqq8DAZqLhcoAwGR7KuyiOPzpf-ZtgnTZv5wgZF0COGeB24huH2DgPVC5vjS2VWB9dUWinmTeCG3hN_g0V79KifZpKsA=w800-h453-no)

I put Corroseal rust converter on the driveshaft to make it look nicer and protect it from rust.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/f1_hXN4SbTApZJwW3KMCoe46QNUc1icPgq-NEuhndDV1ad7oKnXn1D2JJk5F0MMBOCMVDDmjjHOQnzUiodLETzFaOIhII1gxCkxRYWhQCbzAg7AdMOWXxW9cXSXm3TI70BjF5rAiY7GUkDW9_ayQPXWebpuix3xe72DJ8PLAp69lt1fka9V4koa4cTenirm1yI5RPymQeFNkFIEJtTeSZYzdIYmIbIJhaAuMrpJ1OafxYw7xIYs6me8bHf5kdRP3zbjuCl7zKkIzAg-54xsHn8E5Ik1nJjl0hLAGYYYX_pmKrX35qI2riM3hlZ-X0n5NGWKLl3StG6fJISvaYKYKjGfZweV04PguRqE7ywue7okHtT5Z-XgwLYFXXiC1iGRQ7VdilPrKDuaGaZtFNma7eUS612IS2dKxIydcD69iibr3PAboXPdzs0Lu8OK0yuEamum0fxJMHBGDjAwtWu2ABOSHhZclxxBJCJRNwQr3tyyYV7GcDWFBdtfkyoL9kaii8V__uAO9fXYrYT-6PKPli8BynYSdBU2cQwa1LLS5Su_ZeiZXj3gkIiYRmrSdOORKBnoioD-8hiW3taIYORuOA24-5IDMS9gwor6ZCOet65SnKRpw94v0LeR8YnnVl3J957S3TCDmMz08sfWVx1eX1ZUK1AZWOBE=w800-h453-no)

The captive nuts in the driveshaft tunnel had grit under them, so I removed and cleaned them, then scraped and blew compressed air inside the bracket to get the dirt out.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/z3f6hoojMWXLacVDKlbbsp8UXzhw1BYovRdM0UI0XjjYvRbcxg7nBHvO5dz3u6PyfHALdEQzp1jE97CXsdVYSsQUZ2EAh9giJbr-CxuoYPm2wGg_C1iv5pBDFaXzV9ruvlOmK8KcnCp7ocbxAlL-lvfyl7OyDH9uvKr3MOZjkrgh3j21cTP6vyf4aUMGdpbEWDHnDzVN140Fnz9oe1cN9df5i2wzVLYh2reNH-FWcHqZu9X5PR4tD_gv4wfnQcgoH8zwe0qlJch-9nlGgVfqpiMV4zGvTKV26-rPmWCx82flx6l-3T4hSLQTlKv_ldbz-6-abytRG9wY9rQMmJCXUyBcc76aCnO30jg4NojgBaFA-JSGv-Cj_OGOpQ_aAAnxSdSEYmRL9tT2mAkicbp-CQt_W27hEeJtZam35d-fPGXd3fw1n40f3FZKzXDxd3cTdga4NUUWBVxZ9Tel4MeODzHU5LyaMKbPYertIrvcQpFMI3edXtOSs441n5W-QDTIgoRN56o5STsKhYr5VcLmJyVCNyA9HxhdDBmjCh3XHt-z1yzvgELG7ogCGWSKf4xERoD69RrAot-oUFVxmPi8m5oDGE-HMXAYK-bZHVi55w9_0o_X4-2_IRV5lIjtK35z_zGJTf-bWfWTg6GOB7bZcycLaKEDiUg=w800-h453-no)

The driveshaft in place. I did not replace the universal joint because I ran out of funds and am hoping that because the driveshaft is in a straight line that it will last a very long time.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7jssOMWhv_njU0kF8hz-Ue-KQ9cxCjsOnU0ceFzpSOwLvqci3t1q0wnlXL5Hpup9QYYByx7WLiJjSNZ6QedMs76XnWT9-mDQvk2xq9IXvcnhcWwS6Ba_Il4ooIQuuz5Y5qUDKhM32IFFO852Z9dmx8RGCSKf2EunoYmnW2ykZnQoM_5KOPc4qCbCbW7BtZCV4P9nQCse2Hn7MplD3hL54zxedI0AZUe1xYTbz9K1PbWmSWmwGJdN7Uj_HZuFJ4jaIBrswX9uGmLJFtDKNhCQEVp7PSl8wSk4h7ssiLLDLZA8swxDqT1bUXPgGezFGXWjHvPt-TUDT9yGzzgEjB-U5FtBy0UdFg34Uo5xbZqU3ZMIm5LmwIyuvlElqc4ja01bYrLDgLG_qF10M9fuqr23fKCt84wthqdV_gqTbNwqvygmPnAlDbHqyFLMKXXfG5QAnwRbnl6QwCXkfECH3I4V7hX0FCWy2pYr1lCYKmNUXWq7DCtF3UmMfRKSgWL0Lrw8h0ePneeRckPsFEj-Yjg6H7ElKI_zzrAnxSStjW0sYNSAFDdXKj8eDoYdaIxUbBoN8dmfEOAgaMVjMGcm1HaeR0NGXUYWJpfeU9SGHceCWmJp4hyNsC6uhV5XbRx8ea-SJAv1CGIQdHCAHLPRnSVVr3F-NlMg0sc=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 11 June 2019, 10:55 PM
I got my car to the point a while back where it doesn't drip any fluids on the ground--except for the control pressure rod shaft seal on the side of the transmission, and it's been driving me crazy because it leaves a puddle under the car. Unfortunately, it is not possible to replace the shaft seal without completely disassembling the transmission and pulling out the gear set. How awful is that? Here is what the shaft looks like from the outside, with the lever removed from it:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ysh3teCPDHXstQ7_SOwD3O3MuX_UqLVGGzha6iVjqocRFXX-Dm7iBRc10JJLUJ0vJi9Knnp96lheWvmfRB4eAyMCtLVbQNFcZFnnWBBPaiTsd8TEIaLfunyz2n1NYwSslaKjSzVrxLZ-KbbTYdAtUYom4OYwAdJdSv2Bgos4tEj7-aewiqZtvKWU-admzyp-spjXFiF5LxkTVjJMEYCxpoQ5sMQ8CD-KZkgds6O4cJbfVGVvH4m0LYynZY76Ohormxu3-3H6XqOSZItxNY9gITCs2_mKF2ooqsomYli0qBPGKRB9YHC9C9rEgetl2mVNK74hUWRX-rSVcuDP83igo-sSG3ak3xN6rhjmfoDZLZkWb_wpge8XMscOrKd7wrpF-nEWbBzy-kUERtHbnEaE3eGmAkRMFhVVSKxUKAOQ9HR9EsM01QiGP7A7jnJB8cMX2w5M5_shuB9NPYdKYdN-Tps2lv7d2mTnNkkFcQ6wtDLbA87za09ssbqs4FbK2nplCS1v8GrRq32E-Yr6eDZ8bLGOVTfJ9Rl4bjjwxQb78VWtybLdz49mHjDBamUeLMuDuLpPrNh1h96bd5ITvRvOZ6x9i3LufW3uJjX3yqpPzyqvpwyrqfw34KnxBC18QnxW20VDJ9HKWxMD96EEeudUoKDV9V-_eKc=w800-h448-no)

The seal is not located at the outside of the case, but rather it's on the shaft close to the inside of the case. In order to replace the seal, the shaft has to slide out from the inside of the transmission, but one of the drums is blocking it. I really dislike this design and want to change it. I thought about having the case bored so a lip seal could be installed on the outside of the case. But, this wouldn't work because the shaft steps down at the area where it would need to seal.

Then I had another thought--the lever welded to the shaft on the inside of the transmission is keyed, so if the weld was ground off, the lever could be removed and then the shaft could be drilled, threaded, and the lever made to be removable with a screw, allowing the shaft to be removed from the outside. I had envisioned removing the valve body on my transmission, taping a plastic bag around the area where I would need to grind off the welds to prevent contaminating the transmission with metal particles, and then doing the modification so I could replace the seal without taking apart the transmission. But, there is just not enough room to reach a tool in there. Oh, well. I still might do it when it comes time to rebuild the transmission.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/32mnDFfkaCS_xgc1WloO_Vg4_ke0tQMcZYQrB8ZBeE3opYRaof-wY4fohwaXo_RBg06ld-T-4x7-EDQ6zgORw6W1dvJoMChvAWiW_GDqaVyCe3WKoVOjWvO_hIekJ7s4_O-xgPtb7YGt3E16XvXDhldBFyCFDk3gI3Fb6O7GKBEok2WjwOrwvviiiZ-bJTiameKoMqH9uSFtMIxWJtJTK7ErFO8XkvK7KcDk-lIXRQtHN7ej_3A3RS0fqh0sjPAxlv0I2L5loe9Lg-PTBdDjpNCB-0qt5ptu4jBKOTBe83sA85BNMG3MN5PytNB0J-isL00qukUWVEuCZ9j-Y2Za6tiLfV9cEUfG4c3NPr206iRf5kkfzTF4oP058aENErHBuJcaY2vpbMS1HjzEJQ0vdwuYiqwhfvLDEPBSnu3IrNptAt6SXy5dyVy21nlO5FjJovwoKLp9FE3TnwdWGDQOWbY7pE05f9HmZjf1So-39kpkX70pT2MHJhImqQe81ItmGsE8ls2Xtkx32D1mJnzNqAF6N6Wxc93_M9c-UeheGhip0iRq5XZHG1vpk9IJ1BzTNtsVJSVooP6sbAzhzabujmb0l0GQm7YgjrhHfs0lUb464dHtTnnukEDfK8MqcVL5Y8WIIKXONu5kYq7h4KGtPRauD-IzN3E=w800-h448-no)

In the past I had attempted to stop the leak by putting an O-ring on the shaft, sliding it up against the case, and then letting the force of the nylon washer and the spring washer push against it. It did not work. But, I tried it again using a thicker Viton O-ring, size 8mmIDX12mmOD.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XK3Hi3oiyCVcn_-LotC3UxsV3kbby431XBKjdezSILRKJiR5lvWi2e5M_W_Yv5HbFrLLTBh0gu46Hx25TjvtVDVwaXAN_DcF3axI7bgSWB8Y4H_i9fb7aANkcSvOlTPjD0yX3lRPWcsRtwaOUxdiR-zsZ_Kla8oj2MxBLojWaQBKKcz97RZhUsLdgDrSaWGLgn90zt7HbO2yuqD-q_04x2yDrzi3kVEnyUBOWxYTYd7wtEafhraOZytLyW-9Hlx5f_loaJmaXxZYpC0cruuddel8XOyLo-PtYeLP20W5ers1_An4T7aI_877GhFnQw1gJ_zjZWeAIxy4cRHiwTisfMsLBwRxGa2QTJ6C4DYVZVNWIr9NpH1FDusvj1HEDwMj0gyf4isPfah5CjOvtKTdc4qxsIprM_8A4GHwfpYoj8K6oNEKr2IERmeunXtmhuwT3UYaF5W83Jlh2F85EowYp5zIS1-a5hez3Fhpff1Ybk1SbcgF_NzeRNzhyrktZsZrZ0SSnFiqtKbaq0OFbUvSILeQSFoQ7n-7dQfmQHtoiDLhBp8A_JzcrlmmRixO6PUWFEWCgZh5Z6gggaLXX_ck7apSz70zgjT0NgrUefbgIDOg5Q4-wp7TbENl89EQX5GYb4MZgDtkYRgGSTkNcdek44hj0ysP9lk=w800-h453-no)

I put the nylon washer and spring washer and clip in place against the O-ring, and though it felt like they were pressing hard against it, I noticed the nylon washer was deforming at the open end of the clip. So, I replaced it with a steel washer from a flex disc bolt of similar dimensions (11mmIDX18mmODX1.5mmT)--I think the nylon washer had a 10mm inner diameter, though.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9QNd41abOsdfUOT72zRXCKHn2gr-wrqUrpU_KfnrwhrYzVFesfe-H30pj5VxWz88hFKbuT2PkmcQYJWz28SidVMhfXXyJKVBsESGNJWdhAwJsj_6rp9OChlPLYhUjANIpnPJu1oMMjGUpCo8ZKC17lWkVk81ANRhAsbizxcRLgXAfncp7hkVZKPbfg1WKlYtFw5wEhCoelDv52qNDKncZwKPD6fzHV-B6twTsO4u9XqvSjCQzixDBclL8GAUq5gq8sAct2xeh0gWqTjGlmPvFU4jp8Y7eAO5PR7RvJt5R07PRJBlUXEaRhPECJV4XSs-8x-34RaxXfz7c5QUZASQXU81ND0oXgll6jintWckAXwFLW6jPEJ06ybKrkSGE6FOsWkEVlQaymTiYekb6JFwkRLJ-TiSadoQbA1tbxK-HINHX4QX3xGEm_MBhjHRJVoDTlGCf0cqNtS4pt2gUOIr_eRewOW5FmbBd9-FKaUHJaELGKCowXbl8H6vDQjbJnKhTKlrK_x8emwcGEgIww4F7gzRqyhfvXua3Iqze2dyxWrLUh0eCJl2-iYrf4_Ewj5tCe2RQ23EyjM0GcciUCYhF1zQzo8gqU4n5ZdKKjWIcRmtNC_xVswtLEpB3M74pu2TQNFLU6Ku0dXSxPSXOjzP5lgPLzT80w0=w800-h453-no)

It was a bit difficult to get the spring washer and clip on after the O-ring and steel washer, but it was putting firm pressure against the O-ring.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/H0MdOGI7-2WoFgqWmA1azHTdsu9iRwtKrBFsfdUSFydSMTpNBSkS7MFC8I1K9w84N8VWiJa2pJfeFghdpHFth2PfPg4K3dfUD8FZE7C0WysCPiJ-dbaqivQv2jJvoVaHxp06s0Ry7XUehT69JLIdkkQLIEw1L5ovimHTjIUbyXGrUb-U22Zxf8K8xbszQvMaA94tePbN6y9mtdhRsV5cqpVaPf0bpbFdmLKKk8nxjDJd1vb4d17Dd7q0WrPXqTCjim8SpcWJFZFbDlYqSD9VotWhuQ8drQdDk4sPU_QORFqf2MWIWZtyMbj-iV0lZTRR2YJVH6AfFrc8Vjli3380OVQNJqM5QiHSt4nxSTdq-qZS26eDlVxCeXluYpJ7Iqpn8gEP1MCCAHQIKJCFS3ILX8xJqchjqvUlt-PIx03KZngF-zNH_5nG2JrmkwEYasiCMXbW-6mvzOFGn-SU-C2PIgphbO2xBQ4HOnCqk_Zgft28gU5D9jbgRHX75jgA5etqu84ZMnj47AosKWQMTEXl5VbXwXQNpChrjnClA6n6DThWxnkVkTZRjR0hp1HLRPqwYpwBAxD7aQrGo-1dCsGGvql-kS4NFOGkprkPyr5dAn1LEVk5gJs7viEYgF6YEKCsAll40KthrAgkTijfmUZfdYNauED5H5s=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 11 June 2019, 11:35 PM
It actually worked! Ever since I shoved an O-ring of the proper size in there, it hasn't leaked at all. Now I can have a spot-free driveway without having to rebuild the transmission.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/psIE7nPRNma_3Tz5iqkPtlCQ7_5yPwOWz529PRT6nFbXQmuieq30yXNJpyKkpVscH4ezjo4c64i80kO-RefP-nHTL_ZVw7i8u71GTxRzVh3zU7LNqdeEFNiD1FUMz-kIJKngfw8I_jYSDkrMNHFsllhM1plskIKHCbDKTxbGxnf4tXS9Zqi_LqOtLyVyi8xIJxlHg9Z-kcZsHqrkDlYzz2zFdb2pV0KYIBnp50fn9udpIxjPbT-7YVGo6eq8h6ns3pACDA2iStYBQE9xps4vfOP7sV_oNaapG1ZE_9l8ZYaa_CLQYFNGK2JVN2rxUaIpyPJOcvCO4Vz9UGXGsEsTilLiJflQHLe0lUJ9xrqzSIGvFXrMbdvIQqyoeEfkO81jo9hjHOoDnlGqFEjNs1uzyAObSV6FGNbnMplVwh0yhmU93PUpmlr72k8azPPnt6Ei-G5XG2p_F7aCKqZdeol5M0bsb0YU60QcSEjuHYhOjOSNX538OBewNOK2PCfXZg8drtuUrV-OIMfr_5JdaHAqnHx7kYmQA3reX8RmZ8wOaN8OucVK3aUi5qBRk5RefqZcdJDywObRxTyb8RhbBhASWa_WS6_W5T4pBpv2q3PO2cUfdFcST4Hjm1kGJmJinzedJOXlp-ddREqoLGMNxA0eze91beAvA0Q=w800-h453-no)

Unfortunately, a leak had also developed at the selector shaft seal. But, this seal is located on the outside of the case. Unfortunately, the proper way to replace the seal is to remove the entire rear cone of the transmission so the shaft can be unclamped and then slid out of the case. The reverse lights were working intermittently and then not at all, so I suspected the neutral safety switch. I had purchased a new switch a while back, but when I pulled off the wire plug (which wasn't staying together), one of the terminals fell off. So, it was clear that the non-functioning reverse lights was due to broken wiring. I pulled the plug up into the cabin and soldered the terminal back in place.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RNJV3BJBjANVex99mtYh0BlHBmh2H_nfFms3Mi5tlCBPHDVt_wpQmF4_D0TKAjGwWcJ-Ic0J25PbaAETOU_xfMbc29xMFvjQwWiGxG95fy0F4BIVxc-mTYs9cGHst0xZNvZthTg1J5I-nYrjDnQ93MwkgCOpBIRPrZQCRiReZ59XTqO5KZpXSItzVhCcQQOPjPSeA1kaZixCBSKgJBBgQt3xS_ok1kULvBMa3h418KOEY2KvHQzrkJKorW9dCX8w7qMTGJsP6GTpQlEotRXaah-BwIndWVehk4w0j13d_pJK27vF1WMPI61YYu1gt7avSI8gniUvRNz3hsqFusxL9KmZGZ6bY-0GB-5Kn6hBzDWcGCA_t4L3Pcx8iRPicQxVHeXvu265nqMyJnY0aFNgATYHcRg-NUL5lY_9T1jUnr43oE5fdcYjtQ8rXay31sIp41YXyIJi7dIEi2ipByNP9GWnkx8fUoC4sNhVj9FzZJQr2N4WwoRG_755fCIQyyBgIGsFcG9IgmpxxxSkQ9lw-do-6uXsro7aBSXPESa6yt-kvbc3IEchrk0z7_JzUJveoC--3tjM0iTy_fEboc8gMRVJ7Lowb0ncl4xP9XEwjueSE2z1BWfy9kAWKyuhxV-af7w0Ch0jjsSSHOZju_PvrJqoo9FtVgA=w800-h453-no)

The wire tubing was cut where it used to attach to the connector. I knew electrical tape wouldn't hold up, so I used heat shrink tubing. But, the problem I had was I didn't have heat shrink tubing large enough to fit over the large half of the connector, and any heat shrink tubing which would fit over it wouldn't shrink down small enough to fit over the tubing I was trying to mend. I took a chance and put a section of heat shrink tubing over large needle nose pliers and I carefully opened the pliers, thus stretching the tubing until it was eventually about twice the original diameter. Then I slid it over the connector and shrank it down to size. Even though it had stretched so much, it still worked!

I had purchased a new Bakelite connector thinking it was why it wasn't staying together, but it was that the larger plastic counterpart (which is no longer available) had tabs that weren't gripping the Bakelite part. So, I very carefully heated the plastic part with a heat gun and then bent in the tabs as far as I could and held them until they cooled. It worked!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vl_UVuEflXBKPbjXLI0qNF4Z4MM-YIucbatl3vY-cYLCVYPy6OovrtO_qq6vrpe71PneBosYy1p28Au4eGRCqdjGtrC6J-mYXACg_E-_-R53J5QhxhFNFx-KprvRwcgW41ZsdutfmJlOgOfG1XqFphDkP8CQd8ilo-a_sYRAHQgOCgkU82dLnEWuBLhCdtgNPBV8kS4qc3qby6AZSooh84B8o82WVqkQr82xYZ2Vat00uLFB6RYWUdr1KxJvWlCx7iVbOsH5nJnRFIX61IbWyDugGrkFWUditSZbR937YzIeAmK2bswMbpgnamebajKKkCUq9DTtsLwJCyvuQuc5zGxC_kfOjRLwaDMA7v60kqFYB06_scY3QDvYrYwOLg46yFuPYcMo7cUZCW3ykurF4ros4htsPKV-FAyIGsvpyIs0XFw-mt--hksy_hLfHXjyU26fjTlRvRiZq2CJ9WmVM0X_Twszy08y17DvTucZTTjV9Ta35QirEzz8WJ5MqIiZi7djxNJlrmgXZVeJDNq95XASYaavluqpGsEsEBnwCS3nlMAuQZUBqYKvB0XbjiUMd-dDdg8YZ41nbtVIzTP0huRZHbX4Cm_YPzdnA07kR8tgHof9p5DQ743K02EjTFsncaLbQZvN0NecRZ_so5_wlMsvTHSVvzk=w800-h453-no)

I had a new selector shaft seal which I purchased four years ago and didn't install because it wasn't needed at the time. I decided that I didn't want to remove the tail cone of the transmission in order to replace the selector shaft seal, and since the seal is on the outside of the case, I took a small flat blade screwdriver and tapped it into the seal so I could remove the seal. After much work, the seal came out, but to my horror the selector shaft was very deeply gouged all over the seal surface from tapping in the screwdriver. I was in disbelief and wish I wouldn't have messed with it, as now not only would I have to take off the tail cone anyway, but I'd have to get a new selector shaft on top of more seals and gaskets.

I had planned on having to buy the parts (with money I don't have) and go through the whole process, but in order to keep contaminants out of the transmission, I put a little sealant on the outside of the seal and then tried to push it over the shaft, but there is a sharp lip that makes it very difficult to do, which is yet another reason why the shaft is supposed to be removed when the seal is installed. I tried to tap it in place, but it wasn't going in straight. I pulled the seal back out (and scratched the steel outer diameter in the process), but went too far and it came off the shaft, when I noticed that the sharp edges of the shaft had cut the seal. I applied more sealant to the outer diameter, forced the seal back on and tried to tap it in again. It was going in crooked, but I didn't care. I just kept tapping it into place and denting it in the process. Then I installed the neutral safety switch and selector shaft rod.

The next day I went out to the car and looked under it, hoping it wasn't leaking too much. To my surprise it was completely dry. There was no leak anymore! Somehow the seal must have contacted a very small part of the shaft where it wasn't gouged, and there must be enough pressure against the seal that the cut isn't leaking. What a relief! I still eventually want to fix it correctly, but that can wait. It is so wonderful having a transmission that doesn't leak!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/1pXPzgyZQC15HsSwRxjNJX34enHQtbJfdm-o4ixbr3kuqUKIJscqwAyrjpVu2_fiheprG_GBWfbkEaSPJeHtG7R1uRsTRLs0bnC_ELzQvM43910PW-kh7V2nkwy2-OPLziYobedbAUf34oQwjZry71JshvMILPvCebPbVYAZD_fwkP5mTZCkVpp5a7UgInwEWh0WRAWKezByh9lfR4vww-6hkZLye8ZkgVQKO2IBhAwYxS-1GwLHZ3lHfEbZkI4YEal6bP_9sy0NL_zN69gqF6yp3yodEtWTWfGgenVrzv678Rlv9dDpowRBGTUBY8wbxmmDsLjZvahWO9Xkx8VP2zLrETJkqiE6katlOCSdmMwEJO4Hc1C_ugx97fWreoL7RoBiJg6Nvvu1Fwk1CUiMKShYfBybkyXlu9gL8tKZMbbCgRr20ZGAJytl7GflpfsqqHJ8xVyYtvSYe-Z_S1uOeYqY6fnc7OnrHtTLkJHYY6QpYkwl9iCOI1QgOMx0Kv7kGtrvKxOQ7400x9j4uGPZgZCWvpPLC6CDeOy2WDf5fsGw_1uMO8Bo9fK29bKE1gAbn_WF40JQfN3avcmVs60_J9oM2gUYzr_oaT9iESX3RO6OiJT38XQmR2JYHXrxKsnYGdIJKvLdWlfiEnmgS_PPaNxYHNBrdco=w800-h453-no)

My car doesn't leak on the driveway anymore! Yay!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/o3_rBQP2f5PDwM5Lk9sgEOmkcsXhVB6TEJujpR-8R6tkk3d-WpfwSPJ7a1mKJH_6bMehNCJsn5NNfFLgVp-CcJgRc3Vzrj-F1I2pshBK716u_fP2c2jHU0-X5evOWg8MLWVZZcXlsLrQwIr9kW_PRRKY5M54n5eM4PG_G3z7rf3SVOhcb_jzv0d5zrrynszEsoaECI_Wo3eWo0RVf97lldJI5bi0RiZC2YuA-yxAqxKJMxTweJJ8HmHCVAUT7NWgIkbVk_qPhe5dwa5kFr7pxv0PotOXyjkIBojEu_N4capmcsY5gA4K85oh1-77GG28jmm6yboH2_fmGyK2hIYOtX5dhmFcV9Uz5FVhFAm9OHjGoo0hy7J0hgVM8HsCeIH2PfwTfsyRY60zN7dk0oyhgafVuCNP8ic3X6ku4DWANNBqG2XS2D-FrYAfw1eUa0XHqOiwy1On2pMuTMiraMXwdaoSJh8NDGcNF8Wm4iy2xugKVNKcH4MjhF6EPBhQzvSLxREuiLH43kGO9E19xv8ZW8g4bkKwr3k5Q7PAbwfAJm_hrm2MkRBqp3_gSOJUKz1zOR1B9lVXsaPesDar_tvgM1Di5ReCx2gGCOf3IHEsSm90I97AQkKETMfANuq5wxoItW7cwHGFN1-KnqvoCcPNoMCd_yfnd6M=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 12 June 2019, 12:16 AM
When I had an auto transporter deliver my car from Washington to Arizona when I moved several years ago, they broke and bent one of the tabs (of unknown purpose, but which only appear on North American models), along with lots of other damage to my car and my roommate's cars. But that's a story which has already been told. I had to bend the tab out of the way so I could remove the bolts for the rear sway bar.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0e1M9cdvUtcCb6vkw1No6LnH6_vr5OkE8GXXtXSFUakHTJehIAyhJEpOrdAFwM1xKqg51YUbTS6-KG2jc1AnDDc-bUW-LFDRfVDMIRtjGha8UYnM7nmo7Q7NE8Zc7_aZ7Ge84PI3Ed3hfo0IEtqTt87LHxTeA0HXRVaG_n1RR-F-HThbpP-a2myloO9POy7erdjYcTOiNlSm-YH5RSPHcCOCma9yYyMsZq8zqaMfNYt-DMK8Wmsaha43DGu-IRBnwpnA2JLFv0zuQQQWoeNN4OWuLH_G8iEIy7Jm4WUME0UZDpL4i7M7oFI4BrMWKscVbckKb-MsKP3NHcHusdVirPgmjHW5_yoBv02vSGc9gmgbr_260DsTcQuOqc_mZ1KRNXYFoLKw1qCj-QA5biuxZ1-YeNhgXQVAiJq0gLrUvjGH9eszOXYzv8UWbSAEtVwyQifnc_m1mc5rcxyH8YBWGBAmOktBnGrABu49sMlG588gwUhl2-6Wxz6IuCGldqopYehOJoxRep9geHLXkcxNBqIv5Vh5hrQ_Q4UbaNi1KgRT8qlmaBYm3ulul2n3dv-CBHrm-cP4d8QSWNUzAFylZkgDGWyqEF3F1BL-k02WHb5YZ_rOO6dSQWJAytA8wPO5B7PfwZA95A71R4PslvnKNDjw1NgLB_8=w800-h453-no)

I installed new sway bar bushings and end links as the old ones had broken.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2qn2hMEuxwEovf8I8NMWKEnWylOdZts2XF8sBGRKVW-avgas_kctzQdISSBPpKotYJAd9VUx1xeKktU4Srd2rue-EKX3rj7jtpdRh7UdE5pXUJjYxVaVtD93Up86Q721cPNpkDv9I8w-YFDbGjQmTh9FYEYJWApTwGF6zr7iMnjW8DtTOIzg7il_R_GaL9w9K94w7KbAWJl1Yf8eyfmch4pqMnXCMuhqTaa1cXwyrLaLs80yBR7L4Ky8bGs4iTrjvpnlEW92pY4KLGv6yCLa2jA9VDt-ppgPza8NT6lrQkUZDuVA2LsONGZT1-uhTgYUVez6sEb4l2Ev8o5roUX51U65gTzxRSPcaiK6KNa7T0YcFTn-8_vOVOgMapF085mmH5t5f4JRQtKsPBrOlLPNs0nNiuITcl5ZHoy39Txxp8nvlisejxjYjtgMkatUVZW8H1A99ZOrkG_b5XHrf6SGhDKj--9cs84mhPgBl8JEed1iEgI6fpNkk0PvFNy7Tnwnq0OI0zEhmK2y84kMIn1fqiz8a4y-buRFBzle2u6nJvtVCsetTkTgDBdEWgdQNKjoRBviyx1T909YVL7LyAPjV0eRfJLzNtvsolvSMgWCEYkhpLFYlpR5xwJTLly9JwRA774n1B8TxKYx1fuKhnGDHqLqSuI7wV0=w800-h453-no)

I installed new parking brakes four years ago, but I was reading the factory service manual and thought that I had the adjusters installed backwards because the manual reads:

"Attention!
Adjusting direction of screw driver for moving brake shoes against disc:

Left side: from bottom to top

Right side: from top to bottom
"

I noticed that my adjusters worked the opposite way, so I pried apart the brake shoes and flipped the adjusters around.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zD8fC_w3nOf-DF32QnZuF5Ee493h6lwr8r23ft4MledFFRF5_yFiyqAyLhUAtBbJBjW3jSWcpq-5WuUivzc4VhtPIFrB650U8rzZQpsJXyvw5Ms-kGt-Wz2y-s6ftZGg8m7xymRR9IIg8gkUSVN0Gu74-6g0pZ2c3i1uFykzW6EX8-Fye4mL62EdgX6JDtpJSYJzGMU_P3Wc2YJ_FflUGsk2JVMGkfnkEMpCVkyun_3tG8yrTSt_9-gWbu_HYDE1rH-DgIh94E5_80xQi5xQJpKFzhDFyjv7CSX989dk8ETXjH8Lp_TkByUhuti7-a7nBBOT6Nr3fzdHA0atE4v8OnIRWSxVISx0FJaVahdkdhedxK9GEhnOkc5SG4MbCeyFuKPhKbnVgw-OO_VYM2Nj3I7jD8BS-srfsns0S9nU7sKiwehI8vCITb8cTaNBq0aY8I38ofXZCylm7u98xtOpxsFsVAchnK0vaExQBaQcScyKn_y-nI374WqgtNfCWDTppZktWhyN-raBn9SioOg250tUklkBiOygpFSDwqd0qUNMOWFAtRdmaM1P4wJgDsSKeXlJFLV5W-XQUAZzfJ3h79VzJBFDKSQ54SpNvjUlawlRvLsIoqjnzzm1OdcvtpiuVyYnIcnPrQW5u3t7bzk0Kd1hF6Ju-ek=w800-h453-no)

But then I noticed that the manual also says:

"Install adjusting device in both brake shoes, so that adjusting wheel of diagonal swing axle faces forward."

That's the way I originally had them installed (also in accordance with the accompanying picture), and it goes contrary to the direction it says they are rotated to move the shoes toward the disc. There must be a translation error. I decided to put the adjusters the way I had them before, with the adjuster wheel pointing forward, and the way the pictures show. The manual must have left and right sides mixed up with regards to in what direction to move the adjusters.

I cleaned up the brake parts and lubricated the pins and back of the pads. I noticed some brake fluid leaking at the pistons, and the boots have some tiny holes in them. I wonder if the fluid leaking is because I pushed in the pistons when I wedged a carpenter's pencil in there. The calipers were brand new (not remanufactured) eight years ago.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/I4GgmB5VOqmXGzmVcO6GD4TP-v6UUoSeiFjckgmnXgJZJ1tA2Kh-iwC4b13f_R7UF2BZNZW2QP_qeeDcxdZjRC_tCkOs4Uo0UmlQgl15dluxA6v3aN1bP4exzMAzP4-eexUY19lXplsXtLKXntK2vLvH5xkxuHh0OBmBi2rLFjD_ysMS4dfDmQZDogDV8VWdLwudaQsV3JC2QcaMdq9jPzS1DECslEycZ-EnaWttdZgIqPWarwmfTaELn-LYSIhrp58x19YgyKMOsAa2zhPzcSkL8Z5GhVVre3Aq14ndw72DT0Mqra0uq7O2hSX86amlWN-kB6KEp3tjv8y0jP691941CyWIyjBegIfFWBO5l-_ZNtwyptNzk-1IWW-bpMaO3VbqeJdKL3as4c7Tt5kqah5StDPREL3IC_3GQBMA9ujpSG1cJmSxMaoHyJs3BZv-d_k0xDqmPsI58herAlxcLTmjgs7cwBGsT0QsGA6fNqb91kKyqEQnuKTyVwsTy9AvwztRx9nnu8D0y6ClzfxZVGBSmlun_I8rDwCZV7abb_y1PIYYPUDddqQuEMBex64_mE71bzTn0ROad3G8KG1mWFoYxvck1Nkl96oqx4Xx3d1j6_bCG1WfMoUEKqayWjonBYoqTo-WGJhA996rFlzesJr1ZaYgO2Y=w800-h453-no)

My car is missing the heat shield that goes under the driveshaft. I removed the one from the 280SE parts car I had, and when I did a test fit I found that it will not work; the bolt holes are way off. How odd... You'd think they were all the same?
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kOrLS2kAUDb_I5vBkbPJLSyfprEr3yuVUEFD1bDJxsViy6sUj7fwP4SSXvUQkIGuysRa_8EoTsFQdhriBFgPKutxoiKAruBp457ZIeqjV5t951x__dDjjfUIPQ2H8f5T70K-4Qo9A5jcDDoWsCqxt_GRYVov3zHA9b4LBwFK0MprxlKnCtNLZx3z4h9Zj0oG7EHvTMwNgUybW5JsniloA6w3A0dFp2L5WEXFcB28C61cl0a5gqzfNBQFliRNxLcLFTr0l8BiRRd2yEe6QIE4sy0_GeXRKhQfIbMYqPurEXC7cpu2IMiy4boQY9s8XagODnYDfB848obwZVUuPAPFUo75xbY_MlHVqzIwzUzUFlIKKRzIDH-51hYJrW7yXI3ECtBHYDLrzQzAHQcW0fGXqw1tbaWdwGseA3KPJMLn5aE6is-R3bm-E6yt-6dp6MCMqi0UWxsOZjBIezp5Q0k1mm6TrxO-6a3eV7_9oUF1w6fHGUbwo91dDN4kAV5fqACoGmMecOMcQL5HhrTTKOdUhnnWhlvs_81yxNN_GeX6vBcFqY-W9VsxdDUh7ym0NZQ8pIRKx9Qe_H-pN2-dYUg15kpSdWPvQr859bk-80W5wgGR0T56mPcD60kAU9CsFwjtRdJyZlkbaX17KuW028JomtzVre15koU=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 12 June 2019, 12:38 AM
I got the rear of the car back together and took it on a short test drive. The work I did checks out. But, the car is not currently safe to drive as the front end was clunking, the steering wheel is off-center, and the right tie rod keeps popping out of joint. So now to start on the front end rebuild. The nice thing about ceramic brake pads is they don't leave brake dust all over.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/29M6lIC9y93IJMtqQEHAelRbobP3punKvd4wmKmi5dKzR2I1lGLUmuzvToLXFJq6NL1HgF6ZP9pvLO_dwokDaCTXcp2BMhkX7YGsM8FAjIqdyzVRHve3TpnHFP20eOw78N9_qxYf1KWxmLN0t-EC6XK5JFlVf-Y2cgFi7IsLsJHyM9qB-5U_rdkqE9gRN-xvkYzVU0pSW6Z06AoGSVayaHAuJjqdtqsLJE20ix1mEzJl7veF6J3sbbWGBOUs-CXB1STRk7NIvsxPQkGUotTjV_Xfj1NDR0s9Hbklud_kUa9P_hO_QxK7UY0bgJU4h5iuTytvjWOuqFP1m1qpGX979njr7wxMRPgg9uk1VNSj0pcSF8qZ_I9f9xhAH0FOLoFOKKB9eO9PFhfX-P2lOqgTCs8BsQMf5k7K2Cjx5onog37Z7VfGReHqHyXPl67yiX2uDH7GvKB8euNefkaVdPNBSeZlrsrLCWYy5SZJnlYNqJPXKCVlE3sMZrLBg7OpULTF1CGhJSvBeB8Qgt8mUcECnpRJuMDa8Axy0fUX_P-euQFV3DUUeq4yLHaLWAMXVHNXY6H36qVx4-U--z49A2pMxdBltxZgAXj-AU8NOddTgSzj_2mEbXk1kV767-RdCg45iZsJMuot04lBE1ePhvYsR6h9FkjJocs=w800-h453-no)

There doesn't seem to be anywhere good to support the front of the vehicle other than with jack stands underneath the cross yoke. But, it has to come out to have the bushings replaced. So, I decided I would remove it first, replace the bushings, install it, and then support the car on jack stands under it while I take the rest of the front end apart. It's held on with 24mm bolts and nuts. But, I don't have a 24mm socket or wrench. I have a 15/16" socket which fits on the bolt heads, but the nuts are obscured in a way that a socket won't fit on them, so a wrench must be used. I don't have $7 to buy a 24mm wrench, so I used an adjustable wrench and ended up rounding the nuts. Sigh. I got them off, at least. Then the yoke drops down.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jMqXoo9dclNf5i7fs3C00LLLlWu9d29JDf0ffWSDHumFP6XnecNL4kqRwNMHYDU5dlCdlq8nsqxMFPzEhXBbG_xnpIIFQlV8KYkEw7IAloffcAhU1k24FVC6GwC8fEF9Bgi-q6kiACvM7-TbxKsahxlTggPqF8B2-r6_NXnk7NJZkoBoHy9Yro6O0v4yXcPdJhUqMXKfMRLOEJpH2-8zfVjbO49XQvY7TIxP63QwkFNwLZuQjXWzuLGtJqPzVZ2s89LBQlTSyjQTBjoGkDmFDxi6j0-KPvNBzMQmedrbRTFu4YmWY9jZn-37r1VVBfKnB9erLrl3_0RhJo6ScrIsDLnvdPU_XSQfVqaR4T6RBM9s9nev6U86z-fWHXaBFy7Fju4OZ0r0oicVZc-gn0wj4QHT4ekENXnxckq5fgM7mpYf-lXatl0em_-99UmbfC6tDC9aiZBqMiWwYCVZHMJYlRaEU72kEBLXCovIc1LJgl9kmaAH-jXPwnoUP1G66pRA5si9HgQ3fPwNo6AFBOca6gE9-QEM5n6pUYi4-TKJqKNma1roX-IMCR-dr01eG8sbfU62lEtczHyktcLtPE-QWfo2vxFaOqlnNUCKCwhK-eY98Eqtg-s5r5tPGFZ2uBdupAMFCtF4Bfs4YhZ75F2UpU_uXHAjbRw=w800-h453-no)

The bushings have open spaces at the sides.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/WzUHPxe27pp79Nssv4S3wbX5louygQ6dsSrGxBMG0Ky1mitYak5nD6nhvRqaPO3qQZglXOC5uKhwGTFazhcuxUe17U9HWNrHoLd5h4k5sIUGdikvEd7hAI7LvDXLV9KmDfSZ9oiiRb9yl7IRo09Pklbdl7JtZiL_rP4sr73PG9ffUp0_IifHDjlrxe-C1enS6OMxXqFZhpWzJ9nWXa6BBcwDvSU8HXHK_AXUFNKe_23Akqk-uEN0aB2LXDyeRnf--Xd0BMdsqyQYGZP-OjXQCfe7numwQQ23A-nZ8KEOKrKmvHBSa6fzPWe6EhP7kDJT3C4dFogl0bCp0xJpvkCRZDq_ZEVnJA-T9qfKJ5ON4wpGluseBesg_qn2EQD5piIiTJYTswZlAiuyQIpfdwcGmzfWEqu08emDHEvwq9oe5wtrZqMBpo1_tC1qPN8jPfo-zbmCIE9lZN2ZoM0BubJL0hI22DQ1GHjsQcUbQWOafoexLygAKu2mOBLrgDrwLnG9EX05wDXzDYuDH2HqTCSq92LXCLiyYFgUfF_Wrx2gMXm7fEQ9a-uM9_kji3PjavwkaQrQm_Qv59Nd9vS1kB9RAjV6lrfIOmggoT4kQ4Nk-5CwberAmnnIymLt8gU5BZggv6gcd3eFocxnfWC8LgZ-XFuzJxT4oRg=w800-h453-no)

I'm broke, so I tried to find creative ways of getting the bushings out. This way worked to get one halfway out, then I used a hammer and a socket to drive it out the rest of the way.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pQcQwdzz_1EigCo_FzYRUhw39ca-tGj2KQxvY3-iuormMTXSIBijCJuNvuSsRxhx68yreMh0iCXPJAudtaEuerk7aePs6r-2FrZmhCQN-AJDJMRLvXz4yCaSYVmhO_p3JnsQZLBYdqEQJiWtJErB-mMwdBh2mx-zAuFGSv-i9-e8Ig9yYIpK-7tKplPrtPo0f-MpdpL-qhUu2c303RRvBc8zrV6ZZMQcnvQBebBgyhDjdry1IR3hiw4w5c8Oc24Lg65JHk4e1SUD4_290LPOdmXwqyqlOn7cPVIZ_xXPYUW1eTfMvMJycANj1H_REjONxeJIZ77Gto_PcLAwRhPWMOg0GyMnXJYaLjZ5OazfGjAuBgy2FP7mgLUjRbsB3jpYjdZ1TdwmARtnvi-Y0wgFd8ybnDrrujNHGgIAo38L_1L2q5eJQRKLuBkAAmJXbVS5j-pcThL7ezSVONY6snonTNmgkt1B2380lR-fCiPcuML7ElxL92R3DpkvDWmJGQwEj4yPnMN60cA8jArq6C7ULpQBxenuJBUyeNq6N733uK_-68DTbVeQpCDb-dYxR-4IFT7CtnyKuOpvj9TlF2p79WYfAtkwuF4-z8KU_mu-g_s4nNa9Mn3v_ThlGIrqTVdpNX9NWC45eJo7d4HPOsTkswGV8p7MnZA=w800-h453-no)

Then when I went to remove the second bushing, the head of the bolt came off so I couldn't use it anymore. I then tried using a 3-jaw puller, and it actually worked better than the bolt and socket method. But if I had the money I would have just bought the proper tool.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/B0AjWjWVbEzmRAOSsgxpEl6upSsgUm5wEBfr1y7ZY8ClBIOAvk4ZIIb3HmG8e1JVlboG6R2LhVcZRDQJmWMu9KYMr-j7J9QitxRo5_omKFr0FpXyfNWgvzbI-9SiWp5hG-gNHDntbghJ2mHi8xbwgqd51ysOOCzBhRPnwVu-VqTv9hGM2rVqzURDQAs4qeASLngQcOwhyvfjtpDU1rcEH0JgvLShx6Yw8k8SMjgs0E1Izn1B9B3F5U5GDwQCZi05Q99RNH5uJDSAO2IbGhN6_vwiAA4n-OOWNZGpPu5eDk1lH9b7VkDqty-zBjcSZ21egb0nZqDSpHP8pTebXVC-sgT8MNy0crP2HFiqZ5NZWpxe7HljEgGYrUE5T4kU0wlK5hpAzlNVNCpyFeZW1BnO7ADnjiM94gBOVSwJ7ZybuyZSskKYaRmZqPNKu5_fh-l8Kn3gkYvDePgSZ2Qgc6L21_iOHGdjvEumgogmbvp-hAqYKzppFlRryIRaE68z3eEyVCD8bBfYJ2TbEnhc9xc5uxb84k86l3kr8_Swei_q7wxl5cyzSZfk0uGP353sNBMt_HjhmnFif5Syzp3U4TdCLPrTIhnIdTF8HOkg1TO1wxZl5m0rzSGkDU6PYuRa6kZ6E7nP-eBNN2Dur21szDiFY5kyoHjZOks=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: TJ 450 on 12 June 2019, 03:50 AM
Just behind the cross yoke is a solid section you can support it with, this is what I have done in the past.

With the bushings, I removed them in a similar way, with a bit of trial and error. Re installation isn’t too bad but a press helps.

Are you doing the lower ball joints as well? The special tool is required here, and would be worth getting when financial as I’ve had a couple of sets ruined by reputable shops.

Being broke is all part of the fun, I’m approaching that stage now.

Tim
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 12 June 2019, 10:41 AM
Just behind the cross yoke is a solid section you can support it with, this is what I have done in the past.

With the bushings, I removed them in a similar way, with a bit of trial and error. Re installation isn’t too bad but a press helps.

Are you doing the lower ball joints as well? The special tool is required here, and would be worth getting when financial as I’ve had a couple of sets ruined by reputable shops.

Being broke is all part of the fun, I’m approaching that stage now.

Tim

I'll have to inspect that area. Good to know. All I could find were box tubing sections which looked like they would dent or crush holding the weight of the vehicle.

I'm doing the lower ball joints. I know a W116 owner who works at the Mercedes dealership here who knows how to do it. So, I can take them there, but will have to come up with some money for that (and the alignment, and fuel to go to an alignment shop). But, it will cost less than buying the tool.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: ptashek on 12 June 2019, 11:38 AM
This should help visually. That's the factory prescribed lifting area for the front of the car. There's two holes in it, which were used to position and lock special MB workshop jacks (essentially a flat plate with centering bolts).
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 12 June 2019, 12:33 PM
This should help visually. That's the factory prescribed lifting area for the front of the car. There's two holes in it, which were used to position and lock special MB workshop jacks (essentially a flat plate with centering bolts).

Thanks! It looks pretty sturdy. I was considering supporting it there if I could find something stable enough so it wouldn't rock or slide out from under it. Very clean car in the picture, too!
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: ptashek on 12 June 2019, 04:21 PM
This should help visually. That's the factory prescribed lifting area for the front of the car. There's two holes in it, which were used to position and lock special MB workshop jacks (essentially a flat plate with centering bolts).

Thanks! It looks pretty sturdy. I was considering supporting it there if I could find something stable enough so it wouldn't rock or slide out from under it. Very clean car in the picture, too!

I wish it were this clean still...

As for the jacking point for the front axle - I remember there was a post here, a few years back now, with the exact measurements of that support plate. I think it's also included in the official workshop manuals.

Shouldn't be too hard to measure it off of the car either.

I've used in the past, with good results, a standard workshop jack with a piece of rough timber slightly larger than the support plate. But I wouldn't recommend it for working under the car for long periods - probably not the safest thing to do.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 13 June 2019, 09:21 PM
Yeah, supporting the front end of the car by just that center part of the body for days or weeks on end sounds scary.

The edge of one of the mounting eyes for the lower control arm was flattened out, so I hammered it back into shape.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XYYbmrxhyAQhgFuxmjQcKCphE8m7jy5zMSoV04fAfoGymxgFmnsK120FmJdODStirTfPmn4xj7pFXGoHdfr_qbUwQW7u4Ehq1kZ8iTGCjf7zXDkUIttmkvsOYnTrRiCHGoajPnHnuto5eZ3WGbGVg11bKCxAieFl4hwTnABC72jVoAFpAGnAVdNa54cDICBCNZ3lzae0b9kEE-YEptiyFYbfzTqORN-vuApMRbpq7MGZdKxgmVhMUXoxeUAq-D3Pf4rYSkF1bTya4oH8ksyfO7uqDw5AuA1ZZfbLYeZK3dqGAieOWZSi872BXBTKxKbh1pHHuedEk6Fxp6ajxv8Dtq5OgX4anc-1dqY1257MxCjrrdRMepKX4FcwiQ2B1joQ6ljgWdKKcce18pxIuQ1Q0AdLuFDsVuIZEpT4k3lnwx4B1v7hHl1kHK-GcHmeJ_ouCOq-7-f9BKOLtlwAE0ccdTkhb-OHbvH7tlxPcsaDEZRzBZqFwXFy70TKd3tWZs6bF4sevk_HullUoUzXjboRhJ1mKGOqyGvcCbHOHqzknEa9i9OQdsRIPlE1PavcPqYS0zo0zid1hSKSKAXpGz4NWzV5nN4Ak2yyC7Ainn9D9J6VQsQEFhKGik6m_rYrPPUpDAfn_sA9sbjwxMPJfJNOR3ItKEW6nSc=w800-h453-no)

New cross yoke bushings (116-333-56-15) are no longer available from Mercedes, so I was forced to buy aftermarket. Meyle was the only brand I could find. Even though the rubber reads "Meyle Germany", they are made in Thailand. But, they were cheap. I got them on eBay for $6.95 a pair plus $6.95 shipping.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/g75XpNwKpaKM2xsOA7px9aWAIPt2wY44zmD0LTsrY19SISF3baof1DwvB0_F_wulbqEvk2--myYCGgMDqjTi-NfbBBz0G-smsYmkrJXQfJ71Apek07rw4aSr4GPIhB3pNly6aUnds_Fq7-40--3RqZRE9TQzf-z1YjdekFRf3d6EZOlYS_Qx1tGec7gGqFNjMPvwBc15Iq2Mf3BwQNvcJp1Tv6_Dg5jqt1o8VEBGyt2lpPQhs6BjxgGwzUAestyuu8vjrndoLEPl865d8s6jWEBHXFiQc6N3eRgh_dzqsasjkFFvjBLlrSsY_oT6Iw6qfn1CqDgP5tGoW08GzdZr2JeRp0LYVDdGO2iABdt7PSyk75kHLU1ZinNvpffbBUuwGbvz1XZaCLUholz0M9Cch9CuuOiHDBzYxFDSQex242eYSXMct6INsqw-wQu1FqYo7GSzxon1phs1ga8l0HVLfmXEa8fQ5QnT11uHQL244PETCjaU9ThQ848mZWnKMajj-8mZqwAsA4lzPyI_SxeO7ZDKfg_jhGLwDJWz-mju9FCBLOu6otgtjJIxjk8cP5HrMLUM-IFKanIFoCcXxRutbKBZQ9qsznpPVYmk4dp1y6LRb-uOwQn9-JAIUvVLhPKdYcNd0kfADC4HAq3DJQnV2jK5emKlpJc=w800-h453-no)

I got some money from my roommate and bought a long bolt and a nut and washers (and also a 24mm wrench) so I could press in the new bushings. I used dish soap as a lubricant.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mFH0PV1dNgfzQXWhSghKqSMsznPzQBTvnQDxYQsplFcAR-gH5Stpx9wm1Zxen2L74nNxJXnGyFhoToR8qqgBpucGmD90-Y3szWLxdjYh0pxI_WXcUhJLu86DS8aEmNhVrb2_JMmqFy4J6e47oWiEyaAexDZTikQu7PKeej6QNh6Lbb5FkTBlf4swlkFKdaB_-j3dX5EOYfaY99ZOjIoo4jpY-ZoT5oY4HFK-dsOLy1dAFh1hTvNjeRqKacI4AMGJbyhzlKV1tr2HObdifMPJYGzxeQlsVNwV9fVSwcKi8jukxH8BFyPoey7stF_6kuxUNSC-8j3jb501IEt8h4nicblWkiNrsqN4RvgdkpxlDLR1R9ETwRzgT0_m1RzP1IEQS4n-nGWa3gL08nI_JaI9aNA5MDiWV4j6eQ3f98hoxsB-iR63IhnVS6-xUoymbUMDwv-3oOmCvXy2kVaaWP6E7MTVpBpI1Bzy0ZpM8kRTWwFmydPS3SVgh8ljUIuxPoe7fLpdMrLxhSMPoG8cGycmD-1JJjstFUrd4zmnFiabE7YL8x5X8LrwEe4VXyrU81JgPvx3BjQmR6pOVzvvk616VxGqPDshCEwJtCRqbbqZO-FOYzhc1RsU50N5kHY3Ljm0mL-xcLM7gT1WS40YwVF_G92_3CDUWyY=w800-h453-no)

There are supposed to be open spaces on the sides.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qVwaDtyuq0QoJNbqgsJ3w6Utd915GLnObVriJXFC8f5SOeQto9uJVa8exuZjo5US6fbCRM59pVXwcGkzW7BH0aAt_Q8EDlsMsi6hANuTsjprQgWyGJxJj3QXvnPXC2RxbocuqsKuPwM6-pme3JdALTyPU16UsOar09aWXOMtbfQiqoYYBDaLIyW3F5ZrkxYQJp_11-KYWHsJW4saUTyo5ZGwq9yMZyKJ3n5j3wBRauvr_cNbQi9uYlJgud5NQEQQXuPzkNHBKFP64jbWWQhJPWsOiajIdklnVXwZG4XPOZhcdT5dROaZ9iUL8UlXjnExwZSCOZz1BeFo6i-P1KYKUfPzk1amYElpkhs-FP6E0MxoYDaNsjoxgyd5KSw4OsOVz31ge8y1-ng9QI0cwPN17UGSMYVDfYtnZJQnJ0zL62A3Jn5knAevtkp5TOimMbL9AuV8QugqxdRIRpbDL5HP_Ug73OkCNawcamEQAY42dkDDJjEGTUtutHFp9EH6TYWCPz6duxZQUN96s1KTXdWJdsu2wQMugYmosRN5qkqDJWTR5p0rW1VQp7Cbx62wzWMKEtYsVXgLoMz52CjipQb4inCzTUjSrDkAW51JQGE13fIVfH7CPMePlj6V2YANytI4-27xTG-K8dLxGhlAD9Fr50BxTNiYc5c=w800-h453-no)

I put Corroseal rust converter on the cross yoke to make it look nice and protect it from rust.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ozpoM68Z70k9SdG-SOvCBxYa9xDhL2TQIY_faD43BpZUIXGSpPUep5IXAK6fLkQmoZAGV6fU5jOIorexu8iElJb8pmtY3gGQu2yID-xPSJ3DKLmI0nZoruowADS6mAT25x9ShmG4Fjv4YVBjj7q2Q7naBk8pe6okz7DJ7AsjW5sQDS0wiqoDMN4VnNvlMm47ErMInO4w-WJbQ3Uf9KzUtN9Tk5R3kmX4S6SvB6h_4xOE7kN1FslhiOhyHxFma4cLs6OGf0-iNWfpE6w8ArQh7glyOA_sowgVej98UpXLvmt9yHR1Q3weQMCn_ugRa4rOj37NP3H1RNKl-Txy647bOU9v47FK3W8KbAqHlc6VpI_rXo5jgXWDLSeZyRLuEnxXXkFAMmPYvu8lzRTzUbxLzgamte4a3nfZXXmqvLvltnP8B1xN7C24KQ1lNUBgIPYffs05bShQzJTDVJS9KtZpsPlddT404eUwmhqUUK5E4loLhtmjNSVj9oNwf8di7DZct0WSltnsExyIhZa0njr8NKpP3tEjkpRA9noHHZaIcgIH5IcGUUB177HFEVATMlsAnRQS2_h-5i38fNgO3X-bhq2oRLN6F-1O34dXPh6xlN-gUhMmo41zWo9Jr4mSkIFd459nfManDCx53WFcUvT7ZlfPw91O2oc=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: raueda1 on 19 June 2019, 08:58 AM
I hadn't checked this thread for a while.  Amazing work, Scott. It inspires me to be a lot more visionary about what I've been afraid to do.  Keep at it!  ;D ;D
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 26 June 2019, 06:28 PM
I finally got my side of the garage back, so after cleaning under the front of my car, I put it in the garage and set it up on jack stands. The front wheels and brake calipers came off, as did the rotors. Then I removed the cotter pins from the original tie rods, which used castle nuts.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_lEnP8BSjO9wSIW0ikSsYGeUMlwCYio0RmZMefpqp262vuuYMh8AiSvI68vLx8FjkZFCxO_nnIF1tfvGw7loFQlqB-BW1rzzBuNFH3rUmPaAjfHaiQJjFLBPDeaq2e9Un8RaqFq3TSkev2x1PXypuQFZ2n6ecgqxVmDlaVbnw7jE4WffJG12_V0npkUumx0Fd8wjzNToELwxBMC7XCbl1QAricaqTtnTmi3aSDSKoJoR_-e0CXapShMjE8c1yekXcB8nDvp6U_1ooJJEF8ZCl3Nf_RqHLlhAMNgSP8NDzj8uTHJ5qP4p_vZth3m9PPF5vrPAZwqeIcAoXdURqp-GgsmiD66ib0o42pcm3Up7mS1Y33-2C1j6m0sKDspDJuKOVR1TkkQptwv2FPjvkWBx1KKfiQcHY6Zx3deMxMwnIoghFYuobf8_AHoqIqE4YTxtql7vSxaS5KodNgGN3S3OdSqGHRUAkWJACwGwaQM9Pcfregllv_iTB-fqHcrTZMW1asAuA3T9cjoeV754g-E3qDrmZP1vdUNutw2C3dntTS6ggfknln5PgdPE4tOF-9_6svN38zdRWAV-p9ivJCQKI98mYbyedUN8i-PhcL2viJgr4NgCTTjGoPv1JGIab-PBqr2U8ZSGJJnbj7R8-hxuNfQzO2WyG-U=w800-h453-no)

After the nuts were off, I removed the parts with a press.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/BFHbFxj_JLvyvCWfDus2m3V0D2da0ZhR33pf23_okFClv2STAIzccewvzOJ3pYFPI1yW2cr0PMv4kzzu-9k51KN9Ns9jrZe0TFUlLJHz8v0Kzogfpo0PXHUJ56XalkllkpPWi6aFS05wWHv3uubdecVK4O3Rv0YutAnlZX-ieJd-GGsH8OBgNAN0yGQxhPXxdK45yK-cMjxkBNgFLwAHUomOsUTplE5aw1qbvaM3cKRvo9B6_WsETSrim58XepFHK64ngQTZgY9PZD0PBXHFCNHN-t_TeL6sPdPHsosHGgicfiZrRZj6ZiAiJdj3NqA6QRq_ukGax0EU9fqzBDmo2nSV6hWd4gGgRYmzaXCor6Hpvd4KIM30XNNKyZ-wXGuXYMMCJeQACuFmTp9Ky38QI-Yi8GomHTEARePLIU3EzYJH_bKjTfWMDMonQsBg--jSyTOllkIEJrGAvMYyC2o3LbEVy7Pq-io6ToHT48Z5fAbOi_B4bDH70236NRVxqjGPH_a-VGIhYCj3FPftwq3Iwz-hG6E0_g2PpLHQ-eTLWLJb0_hkkLVfZyJrwKIWftbhShO7yO7rlKZ_JD_hsB44J_PP_xkf97gHJHysynZi2PVlX1AGB6E8uCDq5FXfe2DkuVeTlvgNEvqcQ8uTTCdGpouHn5QHEoc=w800-h453-no)

The steering idler metal bushings come out by prying up the rubber lip and then wedging in a flat blade screwdriver and tapping them out. The inner rubber bushings were very stuck in place, and I had to use a seal puller and a sledge hammer to get them out.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/f6Yo82gVVXFFxlY67DZrjWy4U33_8ASZEwT09sS-3_lTnK1X4FuUqigUOOE7Xpnj1qB5OtzWUPq_9LI9IXkyOrjtBH3IIxLaSqny9vtczMJBaR1fFSRUsy_5eTYPYxjUqb8jZRu3qnboS0OPLlER2owo0PBMZ5sxtCTfrahueVg1ANXkT-8UmQk4tzTxThWtG3C-rHp8LA6GBTTwpSXFTZ8jexylxfl-aEvp2WeklAm7xiChRtxTdOTdgKdWQ7gTxOTTZGaWWKiYxXUYblOeli5pQjkeHWsLiD4V9kqz2nrw185yZ13_l4P4ArmPGdsIrtJfDr8q3H_qLQvCw2wdCSGkANDAMQKCE57ThBMzBMGEn6-Iuy120sC_LcHvfkoIpdYeBDLEFEsMBFZ82FhFb0Unq1okDDrlof2sbt_5tZ-0ve8ZJslKTAdATQaXfzsJIxOm6g_BxdykGhSLzGp3eXrbBaHefhpx-_EUucUDPt6gJEIzxgps4x2u0afc99i4D6Jcz4eqwAozqkUBB-mxXCq58ok5HjGUld4z1o3bmDYWI4exqZysWNijiVoIaM5M8siBzI7nI0hNewhsN55wz8chhyXPJad7NfVkj-CyfgORcqXj-yZHa2UF-ddRX-JY6zSbWRjrcsAkwq0yVNIi-oJSFUdGrqg=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 26 June 2019, 06:58 PM
Next it was time for the scary part--removing springs. The proper tool made by Klann costs about $900 and those forum members who loan them out often don't have them in their possession at the moment. I bought a cheap $50 spring compressor on eBay. But, as usual, being cheap comes at a price; in this case it's that the spring compressor's shaft is too large to fit into the hole of the spring perch, even though the compressor is advertised as compatible with my vehicle.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/eMEeQ50sTx1BZQW414s5e6VUToL-sBuAqrH_OanwL0uZXmdS9Ema_x2vgu3rfQpAbyv48wl6gxQ0ndDnct-VHvxQuie4Sj34NM5_4Bk5EB5SHuOScsL4FFm5PKCp6kWMhcAC7TVJsgqrwz6bysd6RVBZUkwJeE1Vg6Ur2u4YQIiaibi1AvGwqFHePCn1abkvPcOZtb9rvXcCOBauvzdNshkRmeP52eedHaoYf6lCYUuN8_MC-yeiM5ITRqH9KoWCPAn5Tx1OaVWN1R6RfazfqHyoG2RMaZyd575_9m0AwQN_jta5541QxmiYoMyOoi7ytB9qPc2FQw2XDd-k_xNgGjrm2tGhqfg9w7Fq2oTTiiefqTbb86ieGYP6qMBZ1uf0ctADWnOkYkS4pgsB-5cQHOwSZNkXhwxq4VxJ4h74VbQQubMtQzTLCtqfWLMZROxL319fxQnyd7jyg_3kYCUB_s5OP1fjHZm2wz0H-u7fz8PXOxM9nN6cAoD0MPL4vGn7AdDgkkn4OIhjyNz7E9rcW_RQwoeYPRXfhZkK4HAtkRGNZoHdukdTtZdZvuqX_4QnIhOv3aR-LldOZ2YOlp5-QAkUM4z_U_0zLJTgPsrb94AGQwvV2rWyWTIRSfBQySgYsEAObMyZLtbIdBm3jydJVO9vq0zd1gw=w800-h453-no)

The shaft fits down into the opening of the first layer of sheet metal, but not the opening in the second layer.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8SRP9nseIFucAox9fKLndN7OG8BWBVqMfMoZAaK5nX18UgqeYs_ps_zhz_g1FybHUpVlIXSU_w8fwe9KBz-ng1ZfS-a1E_qr9mHnXlvidGaJ2OgVSpjpV_jH0l-TwJrK7tT1MQPKCHp84T7X41iREB4EOZfiiZBNjOi0bwAr95K3C3d0f_k5XEUpaZN6VIEHyqP-KeZDReZrGNVfPkVrlWL71R76JHNGi2n5bSYriDzWfwhBh5LcY2QrE2nCEUC7KbnUhi7KcYAAOW_ofiIG8HSnY_-F11mkqEMCzrZOvZzgIvZ5e8gBabZ716mKHTv-9cPBCyqDzAUVX0NKuimKUB-bYxYgnVzPwzmMHge-_hx2lkO7hyVOYLbplA28FU-CbDX0pS4onK_wjUwLk1tc-gdO3TXIFAZDvSgJhPvXsEIvNxiEWE--LbBEWSW-XCjlttH85jTp-rno2QZFJSnofmNGhp1BgsU6X-QeJvcLcdreHFmLYvzsmgQiKC21wtno7NPaY688Wch54CItp8P0Ep8zgLH5uF5R4ePebv_pwQGsQZni7htbjihFQBuuK6S3KudPQT0F_0B82_SgAV-j03Lt9IaJy2pgbDh4XnGcMCCaIS239-QGXiF_MhpioUx0OWPzq0ihhbyiBZwsyhzG_Wotq4ZIKPk=w800-h453-no)

So, I had to enlarge the hole in the second layer. I cringed at doing this, but I'm doing it neatly, will go back and clean up and paint the hole, and my car will no longer require the expensive Klann spring compressor.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fhMqS0B0FPVTStKH0zIHnLrHPJX4aflLyt683cUqHAqMGOcJz9ubClxxJQ6WO_rjlPWbiCY2zdHPabBxO_1ZtWmtLa3kNOvGNYveQHBckQ-O0VlgNKMjcsoauR3fo-VClGd-PYLUB821jP_6J2ciEkERfROj0JWpUCrlozxggAFA7JINUN35RLiLdLGzIakMj4G0dpfHemCigoNkVP-tKWNxqrbMnfPcR7f_tZLGAkXVBPulo0q0ltC5En2omfPd7GjW9whSEYVFJgNBqwtY90-Rgq9eAZ_Ho32GqvjsUYeCrSvRNmsvhrsFuZ-EAzT0dZwIzmpk4S1ewNWc-t40Zqzugw7aQDB74nGbP-3mBWTvW5C4Z3euE4qZETrCtnIRaNDRLLc5IAp9Ucv3T_Yj-Yg3A5lLYokwDXakzkVhHmmRpf4djfdFIF74YxTXdA60qk8uvpELmd7PpCtdT-qrNHX3VwYN4eZU0g96GIuQyki92Ty0b7I_lfbs7M9Zsr6YNWoiJrW5091ktZHh1O6FjZTKwzI8giirpU8xlxEiKO8e91vHTDvBLW1bKvxB9ryGyIeHVYzVr5G8l_Cv7bLGPXp8JmEsU60yMf8RuiwItdfiL2ZKOKKHv23O9siH4ZZamN0RkNhygoUKD6IsaR5f-JtvV9Ecl-Q=w800-h453-no)

I inserted the plates of the correct size, seven coils apart, and then inserted the shaft and locked the teeth at the bottom into the lower plate. Then I put a jack under the lower control arm and lifted it as I tightened up the spring compressor. Then when the spring was sufficiently compressed, I lowered down the control arm. Disconnecting the spindle from the upper control arm will allow the lower control arm to lower even further, facilitating removal of the spring. Removing the shock absorbers is a must.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sZMMwVor0UTk2Kfef_-a5ww7Dsj6c4IbuxLJySc0Gtx8YQOWR8SJtSfGRjFjVSvIBSE3WZULpL7M73NiWoezi7V5hN2Xe3NOeSj2HE5R37vupR3rxc_mCzr5nVyIMJi96rOgHOJw8fMlxywH9VfW5LqcDJzCiFOseulljsgIqOxM7p2qJ38B1J69PUFT4tgs98kzxlBngJLvsaXbPRSxe_HvO3Pq0R7xaXiHeH2BnDoZTWah0EtylhbioIA-IjTEsA1ok8GHYP3iJPbfWU_56grYgKoaJSYzxX5H_ymI_lgIeXuomFtHMclpxKd3gCxQcsi8uThxpQCnoyool4BirD1FcCVBz6MOsjrfeOvop1MqYfMIz5PTxCKF5897erDzFTzpFCnzISDQ5KIcC1GJMyHcwm7hiffYEYxJ08qNrzu2bbeQhPu_MuoekoMIFjkvtU2ZxtH2Ib53bGtxudBOLt_R0AYvqz088MWXhYepsy0Y1wpiP7uOYZ3nyU-A1GD93ywv1e0OkUJ4T5QbNHoWmWtVqNFTSWWaCbIuACdjEMgCYXAKCioy0ik15SHDhDJQlb-QfaIiNrB8BrhGSgdWD3pCBf4H03h38xMRMJ3nLVCWasED84ugkrxSIpW2j8Am-72QTs89h4JGTFrKDH6bBHWqjpYHeRQ=w800-h453-no)

Here is the spring out of the vehicle. It is under an extreme amount of tension, and if something goes wrong during removal or installation, it can easily kill you. I was very careful handling the spring and making sure to point it away from my body. I got it outside, pointed it away from where it could cause damage if it broke loose, and loosened and removed the spring compressor.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GrXoRcfTTjD3nz2TW8RwxEfaRYX_cyhijn-655YvNt7xAeUaS296N8S5YQh-OTOAAC116ZGVwB40352LKMIdBwnZl4yHwn8YXii-h0zE64hexcw0xLVWVPOjDJCEJ4_wz3ScMitjBN8GvkEwkVmgj4k-lhGS9B0YP5GvNIBn9oSUn_ymd2PtZ6iY0V_Egihzb5xGP-RVGSS-3NIfG0i9KMusy13JighVDpKBCtCVN1NOB1YaW-2JmVDqiWGax34Qn-dmo6GG03LNgG0SQ5gyAfkjueBA74Ec0Hzfewi6ShnpkxVCyAoQODjdvkfJR2uux2NQ0VIqi6d0DHL32xb5m4QuTCIbKH1vFGgxZkHauAhKcE2hgUD-20TNhv15ThCem5JU0sye4Sclv9WSRD1pQzl_Ruk3RzXpLH5V4IBryjfIULOPrdhbUwoL3_A1HJ-gKBwu_uBnJX2un3Ob_Z4KI2jJSfr8ouOIi_euWGh4jMHiO-y5RgV52-rHxhQ3Qw-dB5mjIAgZ51XPBbz0kMYqUYlAB-exMki0MQFladZB4GuihkwVlXizdh08RDJXGNbOMJKp2ikyyX_282GCjRaN7GPu5D1Q5hp7jerUW0Wu8QVuKFgAKDRQhGg3J7m6B5qdC2tzRPVu263huQ8fYQ1INAtAiskf3Q8=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 26 June 2019, 07:12 PM
The lower control arms come off with a 24mm socket and wrench.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/b6nRt5QR7Is2SOoLCbcTHkDSBp_IVTg4w9oZZjqa9PjxP5gdWKErUCPE5hs8siJS7lPxBl7KRysbZ_OVqYj9Rr5wuZl8KlJ0buGU8Qgfa-Jhu9k-HOQtQgDJnSmNMwSEVsTP9doA2AvDUnE_9OL3-NCFYKskCSIZul_X6COpMilNcTHjClww4lSg2PAseu0ycTBWYMVMoeTLJj-cF_mN23vkp0hTzxqXliTOAibrCUUWPIc54hdF5Ej1_CGtUmNsuZSskg-jF9yimUeWF249m2zQRhDi7upPNY_DVhaYYfSRfEjv2_N4S4Bxjv05nt3yAfiBvdOXkV8zj-8PrNEm-FbwRO7x_TawW-RHeJwPBlmH6Wz5qWmPoWoYWmGB5H-Ss2FKPzdVAZBB9HQdc8v_6oqjhBqAIibTjLz2A3S5z-1cCKtiBK0xav7dNLDSFqq_BPnhU-vCIVTJfDP-DtD3RbzZqFjX6i7h0FCtu0sHSwpR2HamSkBzmVr4ozeQS6qpppyPh5GkuJzNnHxaAY149ryod-gEYZ-_cIrL5yuz5ZHMNH_BZibaTlpf8EIT-b8D748HeHpr37DkmAmuKQOmI_DqJssCE1iSvxzkP6AzQ5FC5mjnnCeSImgh0F9Q4KhBvq8A4NAobi8NWkw8GQC__Vp6NPm-4P8=w800-h453-no)

The new custom air conditioning compressor installation was in the way of removing the eccentric bolt! Fortunately, I was able to pry to engine over enough on its rubber mounts to get the bolt out.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Zh_X-cdfrHpv0_MJL_i34jPkZurWcSRXd0X2rjObpdpIROYeZDQUdYHSBhpb36AtmO20Oga3NGWpoMy8IrqK1Ckk4l92F4LpPHKeAJ-mz2I2O3lUpavRwIuleq4c9sSh2thi2VG14_ZjncX1Jdgu3gFHy3_uf1XruUGHovOlE_uot2jVTjtykVTYvQtM3nf88e-eB7cAdiqYiDEl6R74VzqRtIZp7Yziyyl2Q8UDglLZY8BXthF9rU0q6So6-0wnBaD9k7jR6YlB_l_ClGOG3vyak05dbjdrkLF0uaq_wm94erp7u8mL2T_eIupe9BJWy8CGTVi-B6uVhFIb-mBksiSaLjMLnM5lyl7PSc9mOxuzF2nJJd_gqvKVb3sOShQqSNIRBqAPEhNFJ_J97_bU-J0GymEoT6lN_ej4BFuEhqlvj8PdNRGID6M568h4AmRVFnLsnQHFZXnCTjzDID-27b1WroFBkyfmwvHAkanBbTqAsAIGYCd2GucvNVTbQkAWyVhZmpdy7G13q2bBKqc-npebIs1jXRODQzpKrlxE2XiYrYnJFiMSvGGwICuV8bcoJp_zO16lOPsADxx41QM12B-XmeTbhky2YDRIg458lrumMio4bzPzRnyPqrd8sOpzWqUmTEhMtjy-N42J5okzRFegiw_JY-g=w800-h453-no)

I tried using my tie rod press to separate the spindles from the lower control arms, but it didn't fit very well. So then I tried hammering down on the top of the ball joint nut, but it didn't budge. So then I tried a pickle fork and sledge hammer on the left side and it worked with little effort.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rgutXnjudmUiqmfT1WvQJWKZlx4v7z3SAbf5v52M0zWrbYfAzQl-zV1X1Ki9BnRBcTaKfLBYuZhx3EUm9_PU7TEP3E_9O5Stoz4XcvnRa3nOSeYFhc-x6MzbVxaxISj6EnJB-CDLrfIygBkIYNLW8ZNSMNqihpZNUFyrZ0bFvvMb1wOL1ubkMSVEdmMlSEIADAIvAkBvoJzIbi6jLpGr5fBMv50NuNlOI229nTdYfD9gbQnUFkvfiny9fD44YsBgZ-92ONldy0Cc9rwG8NVYT6d47iwgyCHic24KJXelY5a_80Cn5NQ0G7WaNOVAkc1JmQfa_4FtL_P2xe5k2JxEDWw2DBoTL06AckoUVbfOFTUKclQo02WHE_3VQBMe-dVC3XOKGFtMSVUvMB-tBvZJZDLAhmRtYuvgihGJF1msMfyffrrf5bBPsjXFG1Y4cqgaeyWyHKJuxFQIHc5TVj06_dhoyeCgGf2OApPYcOzzysbD1AQrL0cMeOU-B9ZAla5m_I4a5gRqxiNtk_A2Jl44Rp5GPHjrN4momWF2uLdfV_2Po0jfGz_cZEni272GteFwDeX6kaGzS5gHm-eXFqnGytmeGK5t1-1eKUQSW8TCKA7WCvgWYSrTLUiohXUrvsFSMrzc2lrSurEbGq_dOBExi93HbZuH-S0=w800-h453-no)

But, now the nut was mashed up on the threads and the stud was spinning around with the nut. So, I clamped it with needle nose vice grips.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6b3bRW0wefP3GWdL6T14kPOstK0iJw9ZtZO8c0hhcb_dOZTqEivZKkaj4lSf5NAp7IkXx7LC8Nj-OBMjlOXV8U-gblG60K0foD3YVto7p8jiAQIIIESyyaJh5TDk0yLwvobMWjVRAUCG41x9CfjGnP0pNNtltODJOQ5SVdTFM_giWu0bye5BwhCin0zGr6jm3jJ5nld5_FHLUR_21hCAZEbJI8_d0aMX1IAKsWPZf26UHEi0m3n09DWQATYfFNMhOBgEXA4o1nsq4OkjMvyt4AVD93TPR1serA8laeYcTOim-UZJCNkQhd6eaUbP9vgoIwwP-nhlnGpNta65UJtwbncmj01QvCHBhIFm2wgYlE66s0IZn4B6qAAw7IuWIWkABj4U3N03WGmMmufmk0fKWi-UrlPcVdtX7aI5VwMrMS9HL-FSzqtFPa9zXecvMzJo24SBVnEzntTNqkcIK4i9gGdTM4GKHxtNNOsx_4_0i6OXvgqkMS73KCc4JZ_Bri1PgEAUEEzUDt74kd-fnVll0JrWyBwDDkPEU4ZBGBBPmnk94J1BxnLO44YhEeoAiO8rCmbdLFQn6dsE_8pAWBkLD_5kuozzICJgiIjb62OSfIvaM_VcYwqlDwUWtpg0Jaln4hik5u5rFG3GxCQEniBxmSWwMyiVyqs=w800-h453-no)

The right side was extremely stubborn. I bent the pickle fork in the process and it wasn't budging. So then I tried hammering my ball joint press in there, and after some tightening, the press broke. So then I tried a puller and it still wouldn't budge. I used a MAPP gas torch on it and even heating it up didn't seem to do anything. So, I left it overnight, hoping the next day I'd find the parts had separated, but it wasn't so. Finally, I tried smacking the side of the knuckle with a hammer in an attempt to shock out the ball joint. It worked, but like I feared, it dented the knuckle, so I'm going to have to try to smooth it out by hammering it back into shape.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8GPYQ2O2Xp6TKC0ugESvraXPPWCY8AHxPjWbXwOfKBmOYjyPij6_0n1439DfDuG0sAbSOtsPFUs79u-ow4rw_KG47qfi-aBp6EVJMpkgkIJUTIhPatjVdN3Wrj0Y4f5XyGaZUxMmazLGTzXbtrMy-3KiwpKBTiBym35hXSZMHgJZHL00yyDVi6M8QQnzsYt2Isy-pxJ90josw9bUsTLE9HR64pLf14L_Uqyz_pFndkYFrg6qBloWpZ5q3-EXq-WdWXCqSgQEz-mfmlCmLICA_8O9tI_ppadPpheeBBTN4X-FGQexIsRGSGqEXqJ3I3B3XFoKKSmy8McdeFH7mlo1sgUd_ILet2SeB2NvAUfN51lYC1J7SMcWbkILuxpWrQalgXZP41bjgO0CeiGJ8qOp14aPpjTfd_dHdRvq91c4NT3jrQ6_ZYDxGinL1xdZnLI_UoHcJ6AtM68CZhffcM4R-a5ZyYJKuhuTckvQksNXoqcBQdKfQOYB0ujJ4lSvmcVCTawWPUkwgTUHW8ES1nhianq-rb2XTpp8MS2WcQVKQmf2noHCPob73sVuV2eCEUj14EJ6i1RfhRRyBQych6dGYxGzpz6rFvM3jTrOtNsE1gPfaTTuJ4Mj18YIPyW7Zhj0PQWkYS5IDMI6Pso3y6yQQS27Z4HGULc=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 26 June 2019, 07:56 PM
There is a trick to removing the bolt that holds the upper control arm to the torsion bar; the hex key bolt must be loosened first because it clamps the large bolt connecting the two parts. If the small bolt isn't loosened first, the large bolt won't be able to rotate and you'll just end up bending the torsion bar. I don't know if I'll replace the torsion bar bushings at the firewall, as the factory service manual states the brake booster and master cylinder must be removed. I might still be able to get in there to loosen the clamps enough to slide out the bushings. We'll see.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/B0ZzB1YzNMkO7Fhhq1mJaCi_IWcY-3ZEFfnMiRovDyPu-vHmEoWHYtelLyyNkgbA5KD93N5wbS7v37Jj5vDR-0YLI4I00TCqBdSWmvYtxMbB3vSEcOQZe-q-Jdz_lRU_2b58Mc6unULUC1GVVhkQ6uJUo22i6yLRJWsyp6o3LeN2NTOgNHr0FLlm--UpQT1fPxESGM8RC2AslxO2ceU5-1L76Q5KIfS67V2tPvOggQhNT7CP5ks_3SwVyZrUhH0Ncr2ince2P2WZ4KfFIU9W_YaXnunwy07Qhn1eIPiFzTOl_NTgwB33uRKKUREeEu-qz_C2KrqAHvHkJGXNbHohPqakC15den_SpYH2jIUNxdYKkamkHQOFRFH4udrmUBK838TpM1bqPLNRQY9yukE9h2ZuVsp5xj9PafArQytjMjaotFZ7xcMRyQ3-WdEaf6wSqo_6GaBttwJrZ3OEUC8ssAQXfFBiHf0ydQpf9uhDSZupqF9qCP7MwQzNFBnbyMmr7y5yPIfYOHoq0yJ4yrEJWF362ArQen5GgFDJnb188b1IYrKUoeVtlOHhErEDEWfYw5LgbEdxMiXkQkr0VyW6jDA-vxdfOC4YpnUam1XKz_j9yKd5Sp27KdLuiqqyU6rL_DFUN_W0Yij4jtSO7JNwjkg21D33lqU=w800-h453-no)

Replacing the ball joints on a vintage Mercedes is a job best suited for the dealership and isn't something that most repair shops can handle. If you take them to a machine shop, the machine shop will return them saying they can't replace the ball joints because of the way they are recessed into the spindles. But, my local Mercedes-Benz dealership refused to do the job, even though it would be very easy money for them, citing that they "are not a machine shop". I told them that machine shops can't do them because they need the Mercedes press, and I had the spindles surgically clean, out of the vehicle, and had new genuine Mercedes ball joints, so they wouldn't even get their white gloves or sweater vests dirty. I said that I'd be willing to buy their press since they apparently don't use it anymore, and then I was transferred to Parts. No, I don't want to buy a NEW $900 press, even if it's on sale for $500.

I know the dealership has the ball joint press because I know a W116 owner who used to work there. Even though he left, he said he made his own press and offered to do the job for a reasonable price, but it would be a long drive in hot weather in one of my roommate's cars with no air conditioning, and I'm trying to be very frugal with my spending. So, I decided I'd attempt to find a way to do it myself and save some money.

I first had to remove the old ball joints from the spindles. The factory service manual says to clamp them in a vise with aluminum jaws and then beat out the ball joint with a cylinder and hammer. But, I don't have any vices. Instead I supported the spindle with a jack stand so all the forces won't be going straight to the other end and possibly distorting it, and had wood underneath to protect the concrete. A dresser also helped prop it up. Then I selected a heavy-duty socket that was just narrower than the ball joint, placed it on top, and smacked it hard with a sledge hammer. It took several hard blows and having to set the spindle back up before the ball joint started to move, but once it was moving it only took a few hard hits to pop it out.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ue-TJlA7cJ9ltfjjuSMnjNZGb6jRq4wPnlpSf49SzEHyEyNJlrxQ6S4qKUPkcJz6boxnA7k-pN9eSQ7Q_Fd9m9KqsLWSkT17GRcgZaocm-zznkLl3bgS2Bnf4Y8mU5otPfKJifOPnqT1EFUjEl-7gx1oMH8Q9VC5TnqYyVzfw70fwQZar4mX4o4WHUKw8F8XfyAJ6drS8ZflLyR39e2YM5Yvfbnq34D4ouP3n0J3-gV57ph9zwPBHyD5cOugVotBzQjuG4rdlMyRcujVzX_Yqf3JWITnP8GegLyRme0mEWabEmwgP4cCJKiZALVAIIJnluRh7CtFC4rPrheEjtMf-FUh1SQhx8RT2EmOSFrSe_AxMpKnxRFKDitPy0khM4E0hSvsWAgEImws6s4VYOn5FF3ne5dmOEpUmwmkA4zn8PAOGlg6QYIZoqZAM-j9AxJUQ1lu9T0nSzAJnUYkqaCfahneBMoprVqlgw0prqWhCJG-9E8ByFiJbAw7X_MYuhrdcIpFFhdrhVDpo7wPxH3_xSXG6s4G97t9vLuk9eqeQ1arowhGPl3Wx9_j6PJ0PnKV7lU5MqkG0KEpn14Aiag2aBas8eaUdfU_dMXT57b-ULIzSVd8hFgbxbwOJJuWdMs6CiYsRA9mI8pdRQpJh-JYCsmsebQWUmI=w800-h453-no)

I felt proud of myself that I got the old ball joints out of the spindles. But, the hard part was yet to come. AutoZone loans out tools for free, and they have a 23-piece ball joint press available for rental. Of course, it's not intended for vintage Mercedes ball joints, but I thought I'd just get it to see if I could somehow make it work. I figured out that if I used it upside-down from the way it was intended, and selected the pieces shown in the picture, it should work. I also cut a short piece of 7/8" ID heater hose to use as a bushing, but it ended up not being necessary.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wYl3vMZmG13BgpC0f4gxKUY_dh5XnVFHfH2KK4ZxPTir1f7GMulYbz1x5X9U47DBNwLoi_yM3A2hF0p9K4dahJseeWymVnUiRxuYeOx_UZY8MZSFZxb8gC8lDukPFEbEvUa_pMQoQgzsc6pitIeEyxnI2zkd_utULaX80wgCjkTlHcaXGkWOblYHIBunjHOCE9EokkQMVuggy4cKqKh0L41AEt1M3Zp6htCmdsd2raLlrUXlBYET_XmcIMyShBCDF3tnn6OqYKM-X7A921uo5uX6nKuf1rhQ81g3ZafIZy4dMiWAqvo1iXLHIJslV5aRzyd59RRu5yTPvsiH8x-xUSjgxzRmsdY5pkTSO6TUABZT09Hnk8sqho53LaXdWAZEKVvJKhzg8jCG4WviAPn4nx2Kaw9fPKfDxllLyrUXxoj2WyoITNGvxafreIhKbkt_naeHiYorHPEMamO5g17AknfBmB6qyzyihhX3rMMT6g-MOSBmi6ny6LGBrzX_8ydSVzEhOqnGuR5MmznF-1ad-L0boUP2-H_I3dXOD0L22DM8vHDA1kz_wWLD05hxo3-kunPUQLlAsihbNZnPHjjSWeQlOSzj1YzmE3ya7cvKDoVAMfUUQW9fhyNJplDzjoIo8ASiPjzoRf3CsEZJirgvBW7kKzlLUuM=w800-h453-no)

I set the ball joint in place, but on the first attempt it started to go in crooked, so I had to hammer on the adapter in a way that it leveled it out.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RQFxXGUiM-8bbLD3t1pWCTKa1WCXexLW12kKMtduMJrzKj_p0kNz2o3RwO9FPLKp8zcgQFd15Dg8aOZvk6xO8yMSRG8oPm4QbvvqoKFOibThI8Kp_9ig7L3Fnq9gUT5YytkNzxn2A6jA9q-IzhUuioUMKiOPusd8gRBMOV9dMYFKkjB2tB2bhKwNnCANZQgZqvtYoczvt3JeLxvqsfWBk28o4ApaINOcsKogUkmEw3Pkyg6bvgwgoQGIyS58xgs7Mb7drHVtwLOHW93ba34h-IIGVmlcJrmYAPQmo_U0m7aYxQbK-oGM_paVEmQZHqVpCnRZ0bxm4VQYHQQMmdWgUBuqP4SDZDB3fueXi6pDTa4FmGMbtr5coDGXLIomgE8J_6dFRoSSqVWxVle7NMl57vgnC5VDC9QgsUJ4H0cHrPGiuvbW6GIACUuzBY_lSribks9E3LN0vfHRXVjQqLXNN6UpWpWsTZUFA9eG67s8TOl_NkhEtHSbJLHtjE_gykeHJZUWShiUY3mUQRxup-z65MZA7v8sEpKUL3Jq0ua3XZBHOXZipZVcr30w_bejEDMyMdlGPPeJhf6yqRb9FCKJkunZi78R7QOLuPC8r11VZIvgU_kR8skYlxuvL2-rBdNgzcQfkMn5aCgA2fZzbxqMsdwTYNc4qRU=w800-h453-no)

This is the arrangement I used. The threads of the ball joint went through the opening of the C-clamp, and an adapter fit between it and the ball joint. However, the ball joint boot had to be removed. The adapter is angled at the bottom, but it didn't matter as it was actually resting up by the ball socket, acting as a thick washer and helping center the clamp. There was also an adapter at the other side of the spindle, which had a pocket to allow the end of the ball joint to stick out past the bottom of the spindle. I greased the threaded rod of the press.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jcWZS3yzttQg4AtSkxF7BEw1rqMfvHo_Uldua0PJ_R7jbqGw9gF27QBHtYqDq2I5JC1rVGBmMZwSVilWRts4x38I7aKvGZXeisJ2Y9A1PfTggjELEaQyNIFbID82HEaYUmhWrcqPynQ2WqgqZtNF_243H4FM0UxceJpqnzGAUUfIjijdaK99dD9vRzL4B29dfXt995Gu6nCifNCUCUalzH0cnrpp-gzX5voLGZJDaxNeL4kO88olIwRRcDe2NgD0vI_E8k8jkaAprn831N-y9bvdB6JGhzR5Fab5W1ADWmV_eYsiDk7ZmwXDn2mnBbnIlgWUKnlYV_h0TElHCuhSaJ3r1eRI7PMWWccWDnzz21hwhAegd-zH512wpW6Wdj33JxAwHW_Grt6j13ntzjUH-K6gAchD5k0TCJsUPqvVvoFnIgO2KebN1sx2xyUrbws9L1bsLn-YLsUEgUI_bNHZlMr5UjxuvLrr0jzKys2_aqeEpdrPZMgIaumhqWv9MFgx2CMmz3vKsjlc86P8QnfooFZKtxdLTfYisx6RiNqU5nPnkzcP8po-6Ocy9m1kLWh089Vn4pF-tPbQermVlFLbJVMUGJx_dxkVnIo7pqE_ud7CoZdJsv9LmAAIPMJUz516uYIJ6gtXLY3nFzfzuaK3AmLF4aehs2E=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 26 June 2019, 08:16 PM
A LOT of force was required to press in the ball joints. I used a breaker bar with a pipe on the end, and that was barely enough to rotate the threaded rod a little at a time. I stood on the spindle and press to keep them from moving. Lowering the tire of a car down on top of them probably would have also worked. The ball joints have splines which flatten out as they are pressed in. Once the ball joint is past the point where the splines have flattened, it goes in a bit easier. I didn't grease the ball joint or hole, but I did use a little WD-40, which may or may not have helped. I actually had the ball joints in the freezer and the spindles in the sun in over 100 degree weather, but by the time I started pressing in the ball joints, both parts were nearly at room temperature.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GmXeUvpWurVZ29IWm05UUz8y8EMIu0lE8lMyRHn-TGzf5g5P2qSJhcxLNW6A60nCFaBmJINtvBTsaAyQ9miRSQRAa_XG34G0U2FjLyUQWq6w-D99ivXp-vQ5-1bpBSonZpBrccckKZlJb-ZiurLcSEOcevL1nzE680GhMxrpZQSSWrzVIgwfQl462lJbIfofx6HlPC11jY6Hj38BMXuLgGz6nhu8EMoz_LDSmH1yFyG64dwNQ8aXzlQN8ODeMQch64RaSiK-dAPRBaiQ-6dFKIIXagiSVLnhVu16MaZ0ijCsloHutXpL9jM9yvmkQ5m-pz6oEi-wfFCIPrZ8syDmxDa_IVnxN3Vuob7Xv3xLDMQ-Z_G5bwATTvBy8fcHCqI8d0_TS5eJ10h1j3o2EHUT6p2ajBqTpa7xe16FwLreI8I_-ZKzbzjUQ1DosXMHttEqOR3sg8pKsh9j9XMmB1OO-Y0t8LaB-JWUwGFNuKBpIo0oqvkPOnDrS8wfuPWzfvh3Mg6-PRp3UQlKAnRJSHH-tRneIU-hW_Xnf3M2-FzFMN-S3d7aQlA0qCAEr1u4u4VzQSkguAnX_j6gI6_Cr88qMCGcIEwPj7VypJAOfDAXu_aVGYqHLNUutazUaxQzKMFcunuGtCVTJLNA3Lo0tZuD8IO0EHUjuXI=w800-h453-no)

One of the ball joints fully seated into place.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yaGceSvZY3mn9UarVXRE5QAFR6BvcU38t8A8DplV8a46yh9BXl06EuiuuH6JftvGIFVFFS_FpZu7a8DdjS-ea7BvQ-I5y0HSH6pRRhy5V_ocVoybHqDdbtFQAPLE9bMOI3NqaXe0e51iTsIehMei_mJlSIVK64oEuHA4r0LA_FISzCPCWCMKz2jRwMKldWk0xqG-Gcs2DX6SC1ysZ1tViKfLHpAthXOXL4czoxPAqr-mRi8XaoXgNgGgIusoWHPLZiSDR_2xsHqbohLE9Fv5Qu0gUWMYmEh-JqARGYZjUWNqdkhSukoVNcEEZMQTejeVi9ZjRFJ2XvIWow-B-RP1X5AoSFjvVbwahequXGVr8ERLwGfWlXfV_ACEoKAU2LuVsnVeD2LevQ4sGN1Xoh_DNk6XoUuM9YDBhWlwrNYE_XNO1Piy4nT08_3KlNwd-I2i57cEdc2KAItObILc8qSAkLjB5HDG2r-hLIKt9fofQpiSdDLrK6xRb3LIllIUgMrwJZB8VQs9q5RB5-OD61C3R2lDEFFRh-vgXaqB0iM_zI0_7WAcAysBenJt6uRneX1NobAAbpICLgzquL05nMQgiizLRKpLGgH_NZJiuIGvdmuYM-3JvSh3Xp7C-gnPTm-WeytMTwD2EiAXTOOM-pNAenzD0C7s2Sc=w800-h453-no)

The ball joint from the bottom. Just a little sticks out past the spindle.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JlPiN-RRC1FRyz6NBO8m64TjiRqIffoxfWSKIaAZ6n7Qow5MGvJE9jq8MvUXCOMwJB_lM2EpVFy4Z35A323WhAvjTyzsYvqA5bdydfKD2qKbo71qLwUo15q_162ToCJwT1tzOpTSdHfVyLV9y-ZWRXgXXk_KQvvFw_UfSH1mMxs7AkMVyJTosksPytkAYjjl6qQWoY1TULxW-4cnT2xleQheoDz1oyCQrDxVEIKouZBChy4Zw5F3fGt611VwjaFgz9rBYu8MSf-3_9T87s5Iz6jhjo5Vh5WyMU-FF86BtE84SfT18v_azuAtsj-DK7Wx8KpNmZLJp1IK6CbVUG4RA5xXi5wd2EiSrnoz0AeeMeuBdZz2NZgCUSGCiT3FrzybhQI0-XlzaGAEHI9Qz7GEbhfGeqYGHz4Ad9lJMLqP-ZYQ3hN2UAEzXVeyOn9oNyYRByNd6CzpC4kMoZYR3ZdCIDI5RVVbSk4fjypcESWTtpcooNkV4rl5xaIxTIQy0xny2Grndrdzapwq3b8vi2VNAuL3ygcQAgPw1bLSBfSlYXvce_-G5iGGszA6dyQ9Y6FVrW8BsW_KrVA4im3fniSiJ47j_XLMc7Nv9nRR5yCXa1XS6yLFsrwuQNOD4z5u7eh0yxM5YDWo552mK3ZL_NVUwOLpbiwtMg8=w800-h453-no)

I carefully picked out dog hair and contaminants from the grease and installed the boots. TRW is the company that's making the suspension and steering components for Mercedes these days. Wow, I actually installed the ball joints all by myself, without the proper tools, and at no cost. Good.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/EQ6i11fTGokMoplwc2xqQIG8cFYwS2mtXZfDBGrdY5Aprsj-Vc6enwX_qGhmBA8AZbYE4XEMLHPSDM0A85V51t-ux7z8InK6Yofz5ev1Zz-8GAyZkxkH3Enf7UTyYtI-rVQUfRE-9eMTNe9vyzoby4ANwXsTLILESuVK-B7oUwUicxDMuHyLC1S2RJVP9xq1Hjit5d3n5vpmTmAo_jxY6prdEs85iSsTQr87MK8sO-NxrZ5-yE9PKAsZXY8yPiek4kF4TPcr7MAgPlWg8_DXjBzbOG_G_yh1Sb5C9UJu53XsRJSfXCjT4aU2n0zKQsrIw8gqM--O_mc_GcvGKdsMIVtQOGgJiMIBTKVSD7hKIwbeuM7xF9PciNpc31qzU9uHXuTLByHla68yN6tzAop6Kuof9JFuGUzWmh16TiYgG3hvufmpB4HYL0DuWQjO_fAn6RVp2mhuKggzBr9_FiSo1ZRLE5xd4MbCLQcalI3_5rzyJZuvtDCVMg0np8OWut1e2j__U37jxvJTrj9VWjpMuE8vaMmRZnt-GU6nALS8rHu8NzmOfEBd-fUa9_dPyYin9UJaWXIHrUgruF1tNeD7-5G8P-pdxNuRh3P7fRONCcfWjoCURLHm6OSox9KOGL81lUxGYG0E8ws5bVAIn_WXPV-2cKoDqdc=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 17 July 2019, 04:34 PM
The bushings in the lower control arm were aged and needed replacing. This is the rear bushing.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JatymyVu9BKdeDPNgDQz_lphgqF3OUVhRwePeB3Wf8mAThRRWoWRO3yu9n-VRZ9FiZYCT4P_xJwxrpLBjxJ0fbDKK6WLFF_Wf9CnpVhxs62Nby_uPCEc4ij-e7Inrc02BKHa0w08vtg_USewSOM4Rma1LijESN11dIHpWc7-HfoOj6ZNM9elXHwtxNLSVw5JOSEajgRMJLaNBvIAPNOqxh1E0mwrGcezJs8gB0wasL5SrqztALSMSYX1YcaVn62oxODbB8n3GGVSymjf5nwkjAQaKpShuHCoL_kQp0qDh8yxlII0b_iEgWqfWHXOpd3eJ4TYM0fxvjwHHgHhvdlBfAuudpAWq-2nS-0WM04KAI50rDm9JPhR8QScOl0UiW6NikZB2-UBYUTcOKYJK-AQEBZFNMggGbltG9PvYksSNzg37cyjw-a_S94jDLZmz6mXaa9naSd85OBBcVbSqun0llazXa2wnAeo7vOVgtwDAhxHRX0DT3tlJkhi0mM1hYTnlxP08IwjNfUJDr5YtDgBAT-6uxhbcUsn-cE1oKRovAJGOvyw2H-6fx-1eOhHqg8u-KXUY2eKbXEmAdoNPLNEa-77S96DAvvXcsPrDiBYP08JzUX3bMOf9JJMKrd-c53e-L1I-tHfoJiuBhloP9JXnWP5D68Ukfw=w800-h453-no)

To remove them, you insert a bar that just fits and rock them back in forth until each side works itself out of the eyelet.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3zhEe7kuj_NbfLGHV196-3kXj9x4NNpopKPg_7Yv0vKp6QxQBllyutEiBBjwZT81P936nrH428OvtHEchi3VzxCZA7uAOVCkSaUK4osDbVhN7p6Kal7THMtbv0s0yWRFs1XeX3wvD5PoW44g9OWQxS-p15gYPQVupW4mnPHvjjhhjB97GGu9OnzoAKKaHv-GmfgO6CDs0vE7fFq8vLs2KWw6-nhgKVykLCw9mWFIi9DjWGyLMshi0JBBXsqRwJjT07WkNTfWzVfF695VhSfkEtoeojQ9g5BoeQq2l-1rRaPgpCim5Wmru801IBn4jabkRHTNnJTjdoLcyV8t8Jhmkr3w_03JqQI7EvmEbOX2iHxLtoSRny8i_sG-xH8PCZqnbj_p8u3iysSGkCR-3cugO9IfSMFkE4FxARiMUaRt8QdqJj4T2x-AsPNAcQPK8UAg6lHOXURDuMj8Mz8Vfbz6CiUysSCXFuqDquuHqXy2FPW9-TYEQZYuTQwPt6tmhSsX_4MBC7Y-sjueJNUHUnX53RQ8pJSdnh-HyOAtVggFnbSsL1nYUsEezBanh3FVe-ZdfRZLuHIWLeP5-S_W_ZO-U9LFCcs8yl1mXTEtfvMeocNA3aj2OZFsBYnAFI48aKDGfOeYUFDbPK5GdcjIxnXoqjKiiB-kIYs=w800-h453-no)

The outer metal shells will likely stay attached, so they will need to be pried and forced out of there.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hvCYFcIPIe8q79yp4qQdnGn2_ooHv8-rBM3-nPJ5sytgYNB9p0P0uzvXSg6llgDMPAhnroL2xEbnEt48mP_3_mGAGRGP1atMBmBNICuWeBSMRkfXuHET0BIOtPASfA3UeACT7lTPaJzoewH20JS5pUpiPq0d-EjKBAO_gwFw3DtuyS-6GLdv_Wmmws9YJQAJWyr3O3LzFnDGaGw94IvHsLW61L_h3eb4NmX2RTRMHAbeFgqyNCGWfQZzPO4OoV-nJpTh9n9A7IV4MhEwoKfvDstqw3YpT-OHnOh3RTrWkN5miE_8OkOzBXVQBqi15IYyE1PKK8epPukQSJ3fqN7ZLiXMIYAD5upOntq1JRYICa0MHkfUSFW6hV3JsBMnXnWUDA8AsBXx-ArCPVlmvHtKffzB9L43SiCILpBGv0OUC7_TqO-Zl-R1p3mpjt0rzIxbfDeKGbeEH3-hvVio6Ooc-ZUHkbbkVOmKqfP9B-Sv2COyyfyh_UPaOJqS6x90fGOQi2XAH9zu0rrdkEH50jr9nqHGAm6c-SF-U6h34oxAdbv_YyLF2sXrHf6Le20lhyxyg7loRBvmkfGH6rftQE5kZZ1Tc_rfTGAeeXQKdUuIBEbCdK1dGEky06awK80o7NLEzYwDrHPciGAUWFRM5hnJQqZQiSHvRkc=w800-h453-no)

There is an upper and lower steel shell half on each side.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/q5sBw3HUTofQgQE4DkebtXmKpsoyjLkOLi0G9mRYaOFXdDSd8-D9UDhgeQnNbnjTsWPE_Dfkxl4LHtfFjFIJF6XpDByGVsloKbwuf3dCVTGaAdAGZyWw-ZbBXGDrUJ5MIDL8DL6xBUQM-Q_Hbe1-mEK2WzeP03Ivb-jG8JtJ9VnNNmXHFRD4opr13I9QD4Ec3K4ePEqlckS6joV2t6J1yx3yz-UXz882UnX9IXGVr2Idn-OiRXUtVIfWcAVh4lviWxKAQERdFjNCTVL_rOLmxK7jMiBtpMSUMtVphee4hKzUEH9YuyAvircjDtj1JQPZjy_biRKv9Akgm1y5EHeXA_uRWOhbrzZ-UwchBrJmpsAhJrJRSPio2lOlj2wLiJjsTTVKObOD-4ecnN9AFI3jl6J0YnDFFN8JMG1DP4tsjq7b-7rLZeX3Hxx_4itV1dcTsYyVmwYdRyN7iC7FixknHD4Ou2XGgPcPFLA48zH08N60AHqN1WRRdkd2eNUDooyBE97SxlpGySQP2uaJJJRL0JHub5JTqswhe9qiDw3ATgAbMhLZo4xK5l7nQunAx9nfLOCRnA2wSgT18rLoNyr24Cu7DbgzqFrLAxYlfMWRkAlyRw2iZUjmAvXQjjHW1biyMZQnJi9feztMMXJVIDDF6bYXXBF3CQk=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 17 July 2019, 04:59 PM
Here is the front bushing. The lip of the rubber can be peeled off so the end cap comes off easier.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/h9zdukGOKPPkHNwiNZVdmhVbLXbS7oSnHeWnypFzMntkFgXaGlxzqW6qTFh8e7xdH0YKzrayp2ihFkjlDnpwMDBAvwI4sIQ6fuYG3jF40N8U2m2knNhiHdeRalczkV5e88-KHudULC8YO5as9l-lgVkQYAjjRITRbi1CRroF4Mw-DMVIYMTtOMFAaZzULaBz03N75JoXMpCVytla6fb70eE20fFUfJg4Wx8Xqm0vQ430BygMqbbcFpc37qGbdKhGqz5rXK8i-Eo4AczbNGfznu1IMgrCGxwo81azfgzJ4KCoq_9fGCzGef4emywtStpD5JPWFIi-0QF62ns3J6yyVGUbRuPwQmFu_8Vqw1e31FAvDyc-B1neezPD23LK8Gmfn-7xwDO8B2-yRHjf5miJj4-BzMohLr47M7X3gl44cF68YuWrvM2Wjsq8ApyYRt9GCDbsNQ7AurksL53_Clt70ZCmZ4gx0FY0Zl7LLn-H_3J4xxcFbdndyFSGO7cIaETttSdoJt_E8DwPb1z--7q_R2eOW8xQqQ_VXRog71EyZ5jOiP1-91pPkQQtaJYVcYE6JBsjs7fvr5Xlj3V3xk08tMzZimgwvzXk5MMriUa2SOel7QAD2oKCCBmUBlf0XSx1oPxRsGDhOX6KCvRD_ijmgSV6-9fivjI=w800-h453-no)

The bushing has a cap on each end, which is pressed on with much force, so they have to be cut off. I put a slice through them.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Jeer6GsR0e73Sw6wzFNaW0oWI6-ZwsKkBMULsAuOKv3C47gLpMBNbuHo9UDVkvn-wjtdLwRuwCl3qljiVA7r1s2KMjxxReRCm9DpT4xhrcK-3wbLFStRhq2lITMataAxT3BZUenlU2zvUR6knGvoBNr9BEqYJCNxdg_KoNwpmMbNtM_Ql8mXdgGBmCXX9P4NaswiKLE1Wo552kFjOgJTjgvAzJkL9nSJR59lCS-NkTe2HPJD7XI6OwUUb4jjL0-TshYAhyb6ujp6Sj6ogx5P0BD3j2hExmczRg7A9kccR-ATYGCtd0_zVF0Yi5gWXG5-aexDz3bHZorBuClDMxDMyZ3zZsR5mNTW7QxO2-gK5z1vcvxMKHYzk6OHp0ysTjLlyzccm-VjuImTAGIeUpwPaWwGHPm28KYqYC7j9UBIWTHENfxWZgzPRo7OqWBa_WPN_t1kRLL-UzYtLzh81Dr61uNeVNRcu6aAydzDCr1gAeVomV_3Gtzu4CD7AZV78m2DIaELapEoC6SzS_apc3I2Gg1RcE72t_V3wH7yADgR9qf60PgAUjb_jD60EvrSfPHcKSuImeWxaoQKyKQC-p6dB4LOakfLpXORcniM4-rbDdv_eSEsyN732y_92Jpv7M2ymBKIjyrVuSqRgzBuHZUx6YB44MsRjWs=w800-h453-no)

Then I used a chisel to bust them open.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/CfuE2caatu_C7y0LvuNtF2m_AjuOA_3ej1m-DErt3ITQwKtin9Oiz8DrsmwW2GGVqVpvoCSVB9L4AOVVHSR_FZs8HXoSvLXuAokkhnDBe59GTtxROSFnG1bIRHy-eCmYW_plc40V7nvG3ORn33P8Ngdx-DdbefoiQgqLny5zX2ahbR-tB8qs9OahOyaSDhQbdxGJ1V7cU_IJACwgdPO7Bgsxmi_n_J26CRblW4IgaLMsO_1O-YGchRWDhJKE0Od1ZB1h4Z4jysk3vcdTNaBqbEyhw3ggAZSWGoV5LVu1p-7hakA3wwl0kOqgsS-LBtXip2xoJqsxdex69H94MeRohfZ4TNZ5ewOQKCTlJ0A7q6CDntsdg1sr4sZz9bjgkkMqkQpPaml5HTWiRyTl9IIvsGJEsyIe0H4QYTV43ZkNpN14927_it1qIzXp5-aQIwLUF-ExNN0f54gdTcPnbzKWqDRSiG6JBmhp1S0-8ruNAN3NSLUjucGPw3HTYvSv7x9wtRvgZNQfZIUea_u-QEP362ffOwNlraqoqc4Kgv3DSeXdxKRSmYNEoZ2U4cX4Mqh-VYkqx2LYTMNFIW1VUseOQNeEiZ2uxh7bu1JditmQD2DB83FbO-revlOezHWIvYwvN228a7NUL9lMgH__CXfdS-FU3mv-WPo=w800-h453-no)

After getting the cap off of one side, I used a sledgehammer and punch to knock out the bushing.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2Z6k-FMgBlf12MsealGqMLWDs-PvaveuVFB4__gwPl-W47ewznCAijkA7Uk5ZTs-26PsdHGfzs3mS9ovFpDZw3zTvXo0IY3rW5CYS6RUhffuvmOeEqHuwDrgmd8ar3Vj4hkJKSVTlq-L7LUvaIE-a0frutJWHjYQ9v43OT6mBqsERjHb-Ipz6RS6Rffb9d5_MHpLibkpRKmH3sjfl-5nse5XMsbINMD9wlQi-mFiuTuhAPxcXiK3ITu7TyyAADXuKum3TRkXoxnXirn85ZWkn1WJ0APjyX9-006q7ZHVa4yDqCoqY6HbGtEJo3EcWZu1vXOBV7f1J1v4IR4BCnHIr8sim0Z7ZNGAobCtm-oD3Niu0ypV6FEd0kqh2bljM824WCnYyza_Ov1QtIQO2nFbh0qdejzc8riUWi7cphodaBRUHM_oPDRa4DFXXR8aV8uCksFsxa5zw1cHu93rD3sERg44H2HTTTJ0FUnbmPSxyqVagqIcJ_RWwA8VLpoeCsKgk41fwDJtjhnn1rxrEL-QBMdubZRO7YcXGoO1zhTN7VmtVE3zn4inL7gEpXdJag864oVFDE7tB2rWNK7owh2l_NYWDci9rGAHfYcA2UVFIUGNtxxCWkt0OXE5JZeQXrl0DnffdrvZmFgHcoJHr625d02x-Hqpi9A=w800-h453-no)

Once the bushings were out, I honed out the eyelets to leave a clean and smooth surface.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/oH1V4hSHQYzK5b-yyhyQaUWMLjPohyeHXWB7n5_i5Bc2tyOSWpg8_OVwDLPV8ILQP1_zFUaT4AV3fUCd5qHmGnxZKIjhelWx7kj_m-GIiQE96ZwuB7c64GdK90dADNQUEiCVB1kU0G5Dq7IjI__KGGA1BeK_UaoPvvPV-fToFmDwzB0hG9sR4mmMyBD9mJNDoHih7OtWGpqiOipHtYX9MTZ3otfK7PyDQvjpIi7K1kEqIujQVO7Eq2N4ns41F1MA3EJ68zU96Kc23x9liRGTLLMZnvF72SFJfFuzm_XnznQh26cCtqz_zKi4tnnKFly-tVHBMZ5zMV9vSiqsHjxTedh148gJ_5c2ze2TMwg02RLGdtJiSGpoOxe7CgMXwoX8uVAEaiVMn7QfHOyDtl8-XIH7YfcXK2ywjR4IHVEX8yPlngP6810HL-vcJk8x6M7RJHb54QNf7Y_RUxvxnj19TDXIjb61OSek7JnNJXeMe8N10nIMGbq6yyEz4Ub-TpMCgQqCORGzc3gf-Lqa7X8YT9mfsgR_lv9zIhibdw2OhnWQY4u8QaxCgBE55tUt_yAi80VcV6yVblEpa6fT9Hcealv5pXc7kpoA_uIc5H57mx_WrvujE_SuiGBEiLif_4tPpdgSgtJyyqHvM11WWwhMzdBzy8Zr7fA=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 17 July 2019, 05:11 PM
This is one of the exceptions where I didn't use genuine Mercedes parts. Mercedes wanted $760 for lower control arm bushings. I couldn't afford that. The only other brand that currently makes them is Meyle, and their price is $110. They are made in Thailand, even though the parts read "Meyle Germany" on them. I was warned that these bushings don't fit, but I figured that with the price difference, I didn't have a choice.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Mh98GoPTxN0nU8jXX_rkQkfBlNokUyq5WKNJH9ak5EE5mgd8uBUE-xnCKRQzv8jeXwyfrZfbZ_JfcctjQrjAvvOTaHFcmoFWQqpMssUzcw2_K6lAOSHzQ3Omnmn_nfb5_tY4DZjTyD4z3w5uAs4j7-nQ0G0kv3xikEKpudosiao0ocnN2lvIZHWCTn47_sH6Jcp9euHLJZDwqeGqRL12eXdTDHOeYV7cd6XthBqqwl7z69XK368sEyr3ieMZFVf-BpjIKAoJRQniNqMlBP5av896pO0wcRHUtuSQs7Fpye2uOAQL3vw_kGIiNG-5DylgwFh1ObmQ-oF2uzgZNwsiI03SDATUsoPoMcj5oakLYaF5zUvwwy37yDvX_FdTg3JU-UWsU0TkCi8N5VvLQRFRZRZI1l5pfXGZZSNt2LOjRsPDE5BUlbWSB665ZfVqENn-dX7IixrCqZzOp2nw3ejHcEecg17fEzdAktzPovTmeEGHhK4Rm8yxCBy0BhlPdk6Lruyj3kKOr1wg_XLVfbg43jfr1ojsVTOklXn9XRUAiy4jzcm2gpbXZHYGJXmCdPScxRwiYNLsYjeNg8sesrCERGp_9KECRf9QWejCArfgnb7XVig8gY_HQkkgRomxhyky1Z7piS1wNFX0e9SWXdFXoEmCXglsbm4=w800-h453-no)

I started by installing the front bushing. They must be oriented a particular way so that they can flex up and down, but not from side to side. The factory service manual shows a special orientation tool which I don't have, so instead I used a level at the shock absorber mounting holes and supported the bottom of the control arm until it was level.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Rhk194xLfQakapJicQxB8GW9WeT9nEYKdEBRDT7DKY6dqnlb5FMBXSoVokTVKjGjbYPEuWav4UXjgl6PWODQgu-nJkb-TyPm4mxtsNoNz4v3Ck3GV76qZC5m4U5NwwLQREptngn8x5oPbq7hg-XqhCN5x1NiFiN66DC_IP1KMZb5yolLVYztGnivf4kekMQZPQ_RdzOFwtWjevl4oi2QlnQ3sMEEGU5116BeebdcwQXKwX7SVxw9SJeoi9tzKp7JKvKxf2C5YG2L8V7lnNJCZ8EnpJasxW6EH7DRSG1PiwiOnxAmot7XMVBC0E56Hx8FdwUo0eWVkkaDbEhj3YRH45-1rFAbyxiAl3qYQzam6Lh0lVqKTTYdPBst7arQ-q1SdGAcV3b5BPwAycBGYMtDxg2Mc4-dDdSIevYqoLuusn040T-wuGCpKy_-1KhxHB73HBE8nMr1Cy9uxiWVdf0p8Jg4WTWpGfzf-P-cgyClESWOtTghdMuwDqeXwxDvCJrSpEwPr8mSWRX_m4rnN61EG7-X0WFkI7tFPGifUemyBKeDvzHpqcDFCvrh-DxGhLJc-4zgw4LfIwc-Gkb6-cKcBIDrW_0mVKuLa9Y-orqVl07YJPlyzuIQGyxYDB21tAb3j5zk7j65v4dQUutwscc_lWrV-RENHts=w800-h453-no)

I then (without disturbing the control arm) turned the bushing so that the open spaces were exactly parallel with the level, making sure that the kidney-shaped air pocket was clocked at the 6:00 position.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XLfSZWzcRFUQMYPSWvjKEavKskaJ2An92LMi06ceqRm7nRo2b9NsKAgm6ts2WO5x26Qe5a1qdpsKKXyypVPq54ps_7kF9DLhM12Jh0i2erQ_JnUjhbPV9LdKKHvXEIfzbz28DCFuUvNYcq9KaT_ImCBDxfiCQFC5MJJY0dwuQNQwlIYIyPJJid6XxgVA_CvG11IxsGSSxMn-1KFYRzBfbvQFCdIvPnzbvC1bm2Gk-ptsIYFpW8TUGwkSw9yrl_0an5tw2PysluL6bBJtuPxFJe8mV_MksVyR-JyEctf1LB9sgKMqVO59o4yHeBhMzOCVt2FI1YyAt7IXTohxH8yX5glTFjOE3lg641KVr6Ag7HxIn-vVB3ucdM4LOvKTAYu2T7lTrwdnApTR_uWiCEpulj6XRXLvu6LZ5_8xw-znL4jrtp6uBRqBogo6hqLAwjp3S1VfUKqMgCeI7LUGekLuKZFIGrty1mRlbUQDyh3N6yBErFIRGIncnTg7E3P8s6Zz-_yzjpq5vmZsNgbOs_7k3f3cAEQQLXn_KE9tWqzu_JA7RlzxS_xz9l6n1TTUpvNgLa-aGyzYY8wQwIr78j6CpQFWCSxZUZ9EeMyMhj7hR4hVbLONCG3KbesN-siDI9-71lHPG8CIuzjjpdX6fSrtK9mE1Y45u9A=w800-h453-no)

I made use of a threaded rod, washers, a PVC pipe, and large sockets to install the bushings. Dish soap facilitated the installation.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8KyIFJK2Yift6abkhJE5_tpIfYa7Bk9tihYy2sw5o-NiGJ2LXlFJPKbZyL-_keMBROMg2V-meyAQJnONK9gEyeX61PyM0zohNWGdOIYuhn5nCDaanmqjAxH-WCZitUUabcDEGmEi2RY1TzMEX7tL3iSMIbUhOtYsdMQOb9d3qt-T4MGpjUA7VkyKunnBy_LZYvqM7TG5AwzWtX43p_yALNc55xb_HnJBlMhB9JovjNJvodaZMar7u4Dgge9ZCipGFDKxZjN1IOVPvDgfsMRQUaz5uVOU9-D11cvLKISC0s8xwNdOHcSK1Y3brRKzlHTmEl55-Q9elMcHSNANg4js3djImuex3lbJQVzdI5dclLeXkAEyIA_60D5Lo17yoDT1zQZsDLtNMQQ4DlVvYzqhYshkEuyaeXqT01BEzJGd4O2FzNxf4Sea9CKp9ti6DU1AX1dt1pXCdGp7MnE46-Ky9ZAEp7Ak-rbmgcATLnWykLytnL-jfzsqhMYyJutpaeb30smibs5LF7m-Nu-8-ciBrXo48_OehF9qX6FvR4dhFIAysUSCwa0ghvEvTY37QbWy1IN_j9Oc-tl2457lXV57qLIkgzsit30uX76TQbgZXWuAh9CWzVNg88v_F2nSyjcGQcC4aDpuHPP9RyvtZ_BiT5_Vk0RvZoE=w800-h453-no)

Here is the bushing installed. It should be perfectly centered front to back in the eyelet, and angled so that the center of one of the sides points directly at the top of the torsion bar to which the nut is attached. Reading the factory service manual and viewing the picture of the tool they use gives a clearer idea of this.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hHXGVNy7L8d2_qYAIF0lmmXLRhQrSGWQIVJV8ebgeXHWCFjK5Y4M1fvDhVQW7FW3amfJQiYRvNRa5cgJ2w_kv3-30RzTwJ77-D4hw8BvAkFHgV-gF5pOsfdG5AfeT33p8BzgBtnwln6ueWqGWI6XG-WPBxT-6qlk_zZWUhcqAxJvuiJ13S5mHrxE2svsmvh4nhqriltr1OX1IzP0FJq8In_EXbkCk34mRwCKnRnFaMyuxtLdFqrX-jUaPkwlTQll85kf8BSlj6J84AZ4zaMrFOoUaShoeQ2DWJECwXfFU_PxmQC1cRRKXy8SclyIZev0IACIK7P4U-9mqs-RkYeH4byLgWRn-xS-8KsUGfUFqUfDzHPaew46y7ysHwl6XevXCocWbR3t3VSKKpieAuN73vAW1ezIGCe-sL-_poW--ZGw3w76pMmuj77ZDPpMyy6c3JuJAi1aW7q_ncYXCv5NgAVRXu4_Cdef_EnNkUZ9X3NlWWjNAAy0GLuk0TozKGbPO7IXjjRzd8XerlulY7OLRWq5ep6aI16tPJjI9B6_H4FK9F-cgD0zVw4rWGwQV5tEtaBcfKxa3xacMCqChnS5tOOI3Qo9EcLZGVvLgyTQe0i7-m1Ak5_-ThOUfcGM3vCP0aooWDunnBFh8x8NVXph3K29zU6qv5g=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 17 July 2019, 05:19 PM
I started having trouble when I installed the rear bushings. They have to be squeezed together for them to go into the eyelet (I used a small C-clamp), and the socket on the bushing end needs to fit tightly on it and against the metal lip of the outer shells. A note on these: they need to be clocked the same as the front bushings, with the seam from the shell halves being horizontal rather than vertical. Using a level on the shock absorber mounting surface and then clocking the bushings accordingly (as the front ones were done) will work.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uxmQexm3AYe_h8l0p5lIhheuIKaFAfJ3K2f3Lgorjb0xc_zMJNXiuS0pcl2QRkBPi3MKDHQV6kNBkThBva5tSrKmIXRP52q8j6sc6nmFn3z7s4cLvMCExSUJcoGCJDjJhyAaJvd5pNJX5AdwHW1KTlTgvIs4D6ZfhJgxeS79hCsxFJHwxrZonMXO9r93FhgQkJTrPsEn9avJPnOp9QUZrFEHxiayZZlWmfFRoyWwX9xrFocE7_2oW-wlS7Dd8rxvYlfM1E3g8CEnMnfO_YczyI_FlWthb98iczlwlzRyS5ZvXqQY5Nd4Bkdz_YccC7CMO-jQZO30pIpHS2ovSuPErFSbGxwMuw5KyFcLP9Whvtv80Rda2horFSMCWgG0al9c6nSNuyCwpPuKzfXWSG2OrxF4sKTijCK7yekTwSE06TgfX9MBATZQzFCNE1b12rtneuY5wPueCHUzBlNWv3TcQOtWGla8woGJYrHYxR6Y3Jk4rIn_nZvA8YXcwAd_NfBPmkVtH5rnjMJLjQpcJn9hxAlrq8RL-0T9_dCEeEN_icdLb1LWpH3FB07dbuc8vhHonJItAoA_pbMmrqzKi-1FOeXlnKUrUgr44ChWuVxgiUR5i2VrCpgFO5Lix1ecO5cA_CBFGvrcJshbuCRklIuEYr8WaxlGN0=w800-h453-no)

It was a struggle to get the first one in, and it tore at the side and wouldn't seat all the way.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XfzACsVJk3WZka3P-uKeS-4VbxWFjw5q40Rss9C7gTQnC0Tph2gU6axbG-8gPkfflpyRIoAALU4cV_e37Ab_X-iwpX-Q25coYpua50mGjLHPwdyqUBfo5VqIKAuG7nxEKsP69fjH0grKmm_S0SEwdOc2hw5zKICga2A9W-IG_UVXh5ZIwbKT11aRBbizl_DrB6fRJsY4zLN6qYXvwbYxiOLPnaV6jrUc13Oktbs3A-xiQpj5t5VsnrBYj7foYm5zmwoSE-sxGhp0vKG4-sgvLrmbojsCLQ9SxQtdXPpIa1JUlpEy5--qgMeg3Q-p31AjwcJGqMXWKxFI6OOzmZuhC9PoigFfJauHDRza1Kx0pksasiQ58NdeS7jGCIL3ZgVWyafimi1_U0lE6S8WoywZBFSl7maln1ckoS9ZdBx2Vda4qbHW1zRvxEFlBUDwQmWtXwLsqkODO9uWu3_Uf-_GUV3M8wCKuxQTgkDPoi2nhKRrJubvgqnpKG8SBCmI67r5Od8cxEWS93u8361F_fUBN4paKELBqYYL9GkSLSxvlMqwpe34NQX328QB8KkDL1Cw-D9nVq-Vh_rd-Tu7wHodLtmJH8JO22lCEmxEEuNHBJijQTNL_N7VeAWCEnTfkbfn9_By_9dFBqWHsgVqhrt5AdnxH_ppppo=w800-h453-no)

When I looked at the back side, it was apparent that the metal shells were overlapping by a measurement of 4mm and causing a poor fit.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/B-U0zAWH6ee0gPrRIcYGRVlpFpZ9QQATUV6cMZOGwBeV4s7WgfyohcGmsgGV-rdLEO0crKRObP0mJYfSTMEru1fEVuLQwiCoyaKezjXAs-gaL-8HJT1wcZX6WSxY8B2WSPp5ZSTT9sX1IY4c--pHyfyK6XlfuhrlmiovEtIBwxm2itSzWLrmq7AdfO51hluy_vqTatY4vpcBFfPRcgitACtSIDqhd-mtBiy5GcIW1cbydWNdN-XWu5p6p3WhTr6uI_LDjckcaPDH4g0SWlpd4unElDgh2jeMSe72L8NxCUfyXN11PKChuyTRBwPpvCakuM2yu1G97rohd9NVl0w7L8dSnESO0hSBFvxC96FHPhNC-n_aXo_Mp1ne4DBy69LTGJUmQHozlxlW8EEkr8jSmLpC2qqHVmzH5jnsOWWllHdWLW50IaIZbvwo2n3eyd_4YFrIXibSTbjvHWYYn0QC2BXZf9_ODpFmp1qzOCjw8uPim6NisNJ5BDQWbWwXMaI3i19EspqtBI_qM4jwmW3qdglnPCM3S_s2Hqbhv4BhRvS-E4zXkFHwcWzvwCYc0fkZB9gL3Ko35JTKoMy0eAeylWDI1PIVT4uO89UkcPkVMexhaA5RFYUTH0HE-j0Q5djhCyEjTJVhKUukkqRzlCsuKKSFxWCQgog=w800-h453-no)

There seemed to be too much rubber, especially after it squished inside the eyelet. It seemed that the bushings would stick out the sides too far.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/FNfJwSjlDSlGfl_AskL1X7x5uHB04T1EscNrRekhlv8esuLBnRttFVzna0e-b0M3yEiUnuJkkmLfCZTK5oQanY6zjB4WxS7yx44q8CP7kciEUfBJyRC_NbUPhjN6RliRDMb-gEX2Pi2qqSyj0CExqyKevW3DdqWeuIMB6gSEHP1dg6aGipoNK94HXKjMNiUvVNdxLkGuh2yIZzMbO43bYRhblYfWCETHa-JTL0ZkJBfmIcNVQ9wvlx_UiodyJzED4gC2YkZB2R6Bxwi9wELcKlzCyd-nZpHxHxj45FC1qZOLDWvSQ-bUcGDlbWOA-c4rcIxIpkRT4UDaK4CRCOv7WzbHi70vJ8xNYV4IjDcbxMYL45ahYX838ogoq7B-WpQ3EKsK-FBzJBnqfoVPk5WvTu0oy3mJq0v2m09f7dZfTEpimvKaEIFfdSz-MF92nTa_ROov69PLejEMmaSWpG6W5Ep30AwcUCL_pvdUEl9CtyZI9QAAT5B3fQl7pzAQcsu8N9DOYXd7rTjCFkEJUX3Czp93esR1adTPQefu9aSBLN55ECgxtmC2WYL_xZBDF_UQZTVCWJpfuk_YdSphpTCMPQZU7IflAmQWEF3sPjLyf8fV72U8oLigYI4wF-RkiOe8QcVGwbMiGvdRO4AzNp6kTCwEsrGIZPk=w800-h453-no)

Looking at the shells from the original bushing, it was apparent that the aftermarket shells were too long and also lacked the beveled edge which helps get them started.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/KJPC7uLk1sTqHhDv6Dw6M5jGEFIZuCAtT1cJNf2o8q5UjN3T3gj5-Avj3MxP1fSJfOLgyAtF2fOJikgl9ovSCyEL-5P_MORuF9elIG-eD6aJVZ0q9pMGGy3H2XM1DC-Co7WlnuwYjyytRQeZHxnaNX_ddrhO_ok8yRZXiU0-O4rhjKP9SBZSMrOqPCCD3bPaGiYn4IKUmSa25TdecKlw84mxB6vLk7QSKMZAvMtD0aNDLtiNSzIWfAMtjZn7uZh9MXYhSgY9TMbI_8nnjUz67BdTBIZO6TZJUjQuIDTlKPF0D2muMaLiovNZ9U9FySRN9tBnphTG9syRPGN2BL51q-k2zpy-umCTM8P67Qmy68fKSUmCIBnTP-IMT08VJdIKgD4AUqM0Bci-FPhbnnaG_-IFlUX7gLXWjaR9hFOi9ujFYWpmW0vRjHyM0K2FWvUly6azy2s_F4ZCiHhJx-PqxezL2zWl-F3GUaXzVg05ej2Rgi7TngJZCIzYOd-SmBZxv4GpUTvrSWf2InlecONck2Us0yXB47V6GJ12bUdsApyp6nDuOJVuyE8ZykUvJLSEHiEHRf-8axmfKZzPfyg94PmqgyVIFdKr-yQDd0CV1NVcWj-_055_Wnd6VYfGrL8dwp2p-OLpB0u9oqhmlbVni4o0ocaGs7A=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 17 July 2019, 05:29 PM
Since the metal shells were 4mm too long, I cut 1mm (the thickness of a Dremel cutoff wheel) off of the end of each shell, which effectively removed a total of 4mm.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jDWMID163iGIJAo_mFxaCkgilT1vaiKb0H5hXiUl_5rNFpHtu7lqZ-t_ulcqc5uQ18KlRb88-7votwlDwPXNwCFXbo10_sgABFqcRR7NN58XeltfNXzQYV5aRIDTXNEphQp399C2NU0SRq4nn7MWTRdvq5rFq6xjSOj6yAy_YTYC10e5SV36Zj7wjc0xuTeuyHoJlCnEJqhX5VbrbwicgSRgwGr61LcgF5jQo6pXnO0jusltwhxaPmfdj8uxvQBYPOj0zRWplm2rKugKqWfWUHPmb8w-JFU1LxDYIyWkGeePSRHqecOqybpv3rorHl9N0-5stDf7inSZY13SRIlS244pwz7_xtPmbExCu010lTQlGwr4MWJYAgbjCXjn9peXj-fFhOzKIjdPVl8m7gWtbrB0YpC9oz1W6GjJ86iOAM2tCPfWrTjDOa1yJBgJ-nKfUG_weTaRpEDtgRad8KPFhA_xbpt5-NVLN8T_xro7FgHuwhoFLm8xK9NKx6mj2oKHcXvAbYzPJAjNxvITt6NMTrmB_WxE1rvZOSC2zrfMuFTqbkFaXuAbYEwuoBW1OtU3yIc1VISEeHQ6NSDSzbZPeLtTyPkGVGs5PhXTEIXABAZRluqn3pnsF8zqS_osy368jscHJPFo6egLf_wTXspx6sk-_5Oz2fc=w800-h453-no)

After I did this, the bushing went in much easier.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2pqncw-J0_jlqf6RUNyOw1BwKTaF-67kDRrhMdH67_J6_Wz2GJbMV1V4jBBEK7l_EnAI1WP6zIZlwMQ_okJXdehk4lIMBz268Z3QkEC6y6K0oiSJqpk4DVCbJA5AoN3Hn1vFDgs_Z04xk0QaKp0AcDsIAqEKbt2-YraCPji7zuJ5YPS4sONL76Be6X1EkVhqDqLsQKVYyCfHKXi-TmZAq-x5iTbl4lj7MuyiXJ_rE_aYf_f84g0cRG3ENJijtkHhppHoibVnem2SgFjHYmYGNjk-U5NueyD_CqUlfh7kECm2saH8n1OxIp_zSdh4QCGQ0Azwl7CYEWtN1F32wxMJC_8U5rdN_h46aZ6HbLCWeZQPClz-TNc7r0HwL_WRvvzbumpPW-71_ZUqfsYebWPzPTo6htMvNpVG_SBBvX81OPOUEAd1hSDjWMbY8HLPvJO8nnfruTmadUD8U2zOCOVMSbEKe5vBnnCZQ-a3lAASevqvHEHUPx4VTApejYc2bNomK-xEMsZ7L1HNPJZGpyC1E0vSyDQkmYtgD6Fcnl48IxC4RNh6lretNN0wxVMfgtEnN8xl6wCqv4TnwjIw3hxAGqvMZn28uQVqE9-HxM8P6LXR8ju-qHggy5rZTlVxVNBShYZi_iSxAqKAdQeI7tL7lQ56_VP7M8E=w800-h453-no)

The edges of the shells butted up tightly against each other without overlapping.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/CmcmLkwT6DCvFkc3AeGPrf8A98pwG9FE8oCoO2JaksErjimna8SZWYCY6gn-9U4m2OOnwbvuji9cPYc6gRc3fCQamql46QrrBNUodTMisdvn1k9WvYAuPeShkAnmbHngD_btoqESm-EH3cur9AdseBXpNMv0RxmMSc5ymieljl6jFxLq_DJqeiNigZ_xnoQyVLhMrAxMI3QK3162aL2ct6f2R6p3_b0qX6I2S1JtGNape1pFQqE_nKLDl4ogWc7ApumSm0pnCTf-OAel2iW5uxnl_cJBIaTIQICVemPM_vnB_Ooy1-2uVaa5wxEeTu2mVv2z6eQ9dL6_k8XRPtTeAMGX6mON6SGQPmhCP2_FkNjv0CzPNrb4MLEiNIopMhQ_yeA9trPnW2fIo3Rji3HLwrLo3OA5lXHJ-NS-kLSoOhK0zPugabD_M01c9gDRObKgdXFmH4XpRc0uXKxc-s2XZhy5YZ0_gwPGvgrPbcaGFD7OuEkpyMlHHyvx4o7JYcCqDXQKF0xcydzJk0bev_mPjFyjtdbO_fgLstSVQFH_vNaGZ_OKvN_p0BXVXcxPG4X75WPZB6cyKLTEkaLUWu9uAUhFgUOKwQbfcybAaehLajxME_Jc1tswc2-3pT7cuP6xLQF44aveEczHTmkGAkRRWQYnImkQEe8=w800-h453-no)

I then inserted the other half until they squished together. I ended up putting RTV sealant at where the bushings contact the control arm to prevent moisture from getting inside.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/akoglGtA6Drp9d5lobb3ZICHWzWTfXSXw6TVO9Z9lEdsDBemtdOxhTddgQNgNhjiAlcpUf92LxQStfLvfyjiJ4wNswPnNWy406q00xez3pkUpS7cw3TgLjt1znZoITaKPGz7MGEnpx9W2ZTqsXUQfhrwYV7itwFCJA8du1wZFNe7fnkXmeww6bMHcEkuSPSwYU8SKtQrgjhO7UU0LFL_rH7r2Rbt0lkbJt4SxIn_zwjtEHFTi2H-OFjX-4bWLhrjeMMvW6BcV3ZPZ0_34mwmd93jwm9sAqUkkyZHy6n3foEaNuvOOxNoiCmLU5nmBC-T9kzG2-4UBxSb4Ne3iCRs7n9NEDcOUNXOJrYHgLUe3vlF1XsuAYnZr0otrOfdDCa7HH6kNXaKjVe_QFS2CNbu6oyODhdqoW7FKNnwAMCZhPsKQ2aNbkS_c9qT1G4Dg1oTuVWzCp_h7bN4f8TOuom0a5Qjwr6MvPOUJc9mjxgXko79Kp8uJiUjx-MZiEbiiTMZpw77VOTiChHkTvaGqXb49aNsFwhrjUmM59Z_qrNmibrJAcK0Rnjs9KN1WXyU8Ri3-DjfWUrwKtny3y6i-c8nqzO4t2q6QYPLhqbwmISk_s7R7SBoG18xEeGArRGJpft1Pkpq7zUoPFziYQtBLY3ZavW0pov_ugY=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 17 July 2019, 05:50 PM
I was happy with how well the front bushings fit, but my joy was dissuaded when I installed the end caps. I found that with a small threaded bolt, the caps tended to tilt and bind. So, I used the thickest bolt that I could fit into the hole. This helped. Then I tightened the caps together. I recommend marking the caps in relation to the control arm so if they rotate, it will be noticed and can be corrected so the clocking of the bushing is not altered.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bbFtW4wHbIgVqdY9sP0k7p81I2grNo1srEW8wxJTBqeVMb96I4Ad4kTIuH2qpz5o7Qw6jM52knqroUWPqti_qEL9ucf9CBRZYVSuzPxwkbd8NKZc1urZHH2K-BMa1ASCznMaagAKiZRrbLqcGNrYFrNLaLxSOgh146NDa-SvbU1Bn_yhNxPaOksUEfsfozlt_GLcRXRHEOgKJARdtl0PK1SDabHtBpXTX6B11r3TUMuwp7PNjWleNMkaWz3WY30gwxUY_YhF9uDmsLV5bo6n0mx2TiKX9LU9bFUcJg9DjpmIaN3GsQEMzVYT0NMA_BiUjRJz_Rpf9yx6uj6PTnwbZOuBt5KcJ5oSCSBOSYdF-l8K4eVRgHEG76HNekdzytiSxRfCXOwSUwgtRjKRlXwyguRsl1kt9Iuwm_3nQeHorCBk_UL2l5tjc6jk0Iehj9qgRCv7M5mFnysIIf3NNFNCCIvJfhwmZHp6-n0_9Q1RIODCKOOIYERXgKCSjQrBUokQmW05TbogSoOgUc4xEiYOh23xzGyfXtENM4GL8TXQTF3tfp62rbstdtconGh_Ya_n4d48DWnbTa4jahPmeMSnByxbcPnmTDGJs2tiNJXGzo8I9EAo-p2ijk_t8ZTXVmhq-wa7wkRj33roSYfGL0lq5jpECEAXjtE=w800-h453-no)

The caps are supposed to keep moving inward to the control arm eyelet until they fit tightly against it. But, they were fitting loosely and I couldn't crank down the bolt much tighter as it was taking too much force. So, I loosened the nut and found that the bolt was stuck. Odd. I tried pulling it out and one of the caps fell off. Then I noticed that I could push the cap onto the end of the pipe in the bushing without much force. The end of the pipe curled in on itself and shrank so it was now too small for a mounting bolt to be inserted in it, and also too small for the cap to stay in place. So, I had to stop what I was doing and order another bushing kit.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/EDlHHiQp9CeJiD1HYk5eOODuax1grupFV-6uq4HYTTS8MM8iU7bbyvu3qAHFuZ3M40KeFl43yX3wYEFGSOfPQ46fS2YQWNrUIEY7rAjCWQgs5Pn_O5Z9V_ThRw--7mX7rowNgAlcNNG2E8qYDuWMCPdatnYdJnWezQjUd5frPXJM4InTgTEoZZYU1sYeA_yOgchNuYpaxpAgemaqd6HewgZHBrYX-dVUsI2ijdWYRxnvUVCJ1fw3UXvUMiTPrm2-U_APskkcEhkvjL7O_TqsrLUkkD4xRGBURa_H8R_ClgZstwFSATEj3rKEo8u3iMecWHTI2P1KQ9mncI7EmOz6h3bNkboRg57mOEfApsyOS2u7lPxW-RC_iiaepDNFeT_kKmJUeYZ8AfRmo-juHhYQevMbKOzDqA8VcBhGej4XAQWZ1vZ0LIAkf4slM0n0LcSd_WtdzBruQiShHO_mtR3yfB2XqZt6dFzPlmjlhkKUUnNCV3FybskRdtMeTwFEAhqsKaFNxTBtHoYiDhrRqzMhcjQKiXaqHRJKT7hYMffHmehgwQx5yvbAEYMIdmc2xXD7kEoIb68Dn0zdoxYnHzEAq26vNZ80IDxwv5DcAL9niKGuX8Eswzn73WxcCCmWTuutYqK5L-PuUkVRPV8uPuzWdRdtZ-_IVIE=w800-h453-no)

The new bushing kit arrived and I tried installing it and had the same problem, only this time the pipe had shrank onto the bolt so tightly that it took knocking out the bushing and holding it in a PVC pipe so I could force the bolt out with a sledgehammer. Ugh. Fortunately, the end of the pipe in the bushing had mushroomed a little instead of just curling under, so one cap was still on it tightly all the way up to the stop, and the cap which had fallen off seemed like it would stay on. I determined that the pipe in the bushing was 1-2mm too long, so I cut off almost 2mm of material from the end and then beveled it.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RdMUFHxMb2CDigTAP3Y0lUI1fuWyITe4zARO6nX8_122hCeLavj-s5aasEj5DggYVwe6ce19J1c6W-oLTWgDWPoi5cY5mqZQlKZ5jvqCeBqgr9GAt8Jt40mqTbWC8fmAEyDAFn4Gq8rgBnsPMNwuAUBIOGHpaOLphCjoBEPAfYNJwAJ0MoXwBr54ZiLHPA7yJIQVQ4ovWrLrbnnanl1wjy2_V4eDJTXP_dCmWRR8ujSaJPOeQLVbzY4osJcuPDpSn5Z_0xfbe5R4hp0512MgF6lle9NMgHz37sjIAw7OhCYteOEHc48H6XTDoJ7txshqD1KyhairTFxzfDMVltNuh3ktOyqzOjxpKqEI5PXWz42_l0mncfMWm_302L_Whv3N6muHP40x5GiRPjFddzXZAxdyz6hj6rSs-4Yn5aeo9h7Bdk9C5ZcsH9gtC2dQqeczgu0s0g88ET6MeAnLgojQi_ix_Ju1kwuxt7xuUMOl4NHmJm5bAFvsbqpPqJNciLgbNT59S88Z8I05JsijNqScq04S9ly9s7KRRgGmfIAIsMPHoyzGN2Tj0CAd4gf_l0TnZSyqLNTm0xJ3fH8J5LIOtxXwKlb5A8YN1ZV79oZa4TDN8vozVshj5L8Jj6Hz4B4Z8jiK7kT4b6qAAYqEmQydwbucuYIOZVs=w800-h453-no)

I installed the bushing and pressed on the remaining cap with success this time because the pipe wasn't too long. Then I bored out the inside of the pipe so the mounting bolt would fit through it again. It's so much work to get aftermarket parts to fit sometimes! This is exactly why I avoid them when I'm able. I replaced the first rear bushing that ripped when I installed it and was able to get a refund for the first bushing kit I bought under warranty.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9gwfqANhj1XQe4FLcqhZzIpgcuTrb7TaPACdvGz4fpqOahuhbthbIh0AowJA3_I9nwowaCWvbcQUgIl0_tKyO_iDlTc9EOW76pDDRUzoQ3MNTkc9Cx5XFGEdAniezdj-rhfYY1cXFMO239jeiEPhyQmZAabJfrDady7YWCgx0ha6-4IWdavab3_LyFTUXt2VKYYyjvM49YjtHgJtpMEQ1JJTWBNmuLtz4ap2xBGAlqZIto_cCrCRRf3KzUWo90SAddAInaU6r_O620LXPtVTI6k4mtK3uuzBLA0bIc4-6jb2aVGE0DetTFK75Dhm2n7VeP8Pakz-0SiB3Y_WqK0IP5yym4a71UdAlX1s2h_X9IBc5n1QvQGbF-aypxgMXUBvDZvvdvHbw6EoHr012ZUvV1qhjdxSvOi5xI3agG02Grv0hDfEpg4c0A_O9VSr3SKbgNADepQafcit7PsqQRx3JUPAxtHgjn62n1gOf9DLZ66PcKMeQ5Btjgi11ufpwnfmJrWXf-qb6bdBFdI09rQOE6yWqf0QwzSWhPYGWVCum9helL7DwABX2uX65vR4qeTKlcbT0Swk9AZOvBrIJ8_8nAxZ84VCjuRyiMzMYAqz8UJHkDQ0hT9T0sR2zcpLalrD6P-itnwzvlauXoATh-jB1TpzWOMQvLw=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 17 July 2019, 06:29 PM
I cleaned and waxed under the front end. I found a few areas where the undercoating was peeling off and it was rusty underneath. I took care of those right away by peeling off the undercoating, wire brushing it, and coating it with Corroseal rust converter.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/KuML91fOAak4fdsn_Mw-etlFZT30-ZtgKWG6rCeEIiGVfzUsCy11rtrivlhdwlABjm0R1nmtG9XvtV2Dp0XDQ-vYSaWscZdWRNdimIE2K5KVMXur_W-6fy_m9qJLF7XP8O2NPCAB2fDMBEfq2OyZS9uZIH47KwBuR19OziJoyX0SYaaBm3HCeMHLNGOdwo90duocZJhgn8C4D_5GYkrjRrYEp1UnEALOmenPXRbx2v0guKLZczDr6w5Y9rxXofTzSFKHEZZBk4m-r7L3NBTr49_sau0nOM0OBNQaVaP8ME7prKW4IJMjRb0x4S6sbS7HazIB_smQBizR-AV-pwUlH8ToJbTvRxnoyq5JsvtNNR_oacPAqWc_F1FRadjlVrb-BP44aw0aLm88t-vJuvlcSJHlSsZ0O58rd9P08DJ3lq0HBG3ZAEvGY1an5wek8I5CYkOYyXhqpch1ZZ0a1N5JWtRt271wBxOZX7M3dJdlwChiiAiLhwndLnFgrnd6Gp13BktzilfobB1qoLZVszbgYZaSgR8obOifEbzXbziIOk6Ub6qZt69owXuyFXwTXwyb5gNRanhhvSE5pADMOhnJI0XaaG-okb0gwnzpCEhT4qZ856GAAsKzd0cPm4X92UW8JevHwDKNzOikYKOc1tKGMYQ2fi3Etw8=w800-h453-no)

The new upper control arms. They didn't come with nuts, so I got some torque nuts at Ace Hardware. I also got new bushings and sleeves--all genuine Mercedes.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/T30726ELT5EzpzZ94cu07ddGH2XUi4bOLBTAJGjD8J2AmXF3xo5zXMrF46en7tH-ITGkIUwHAAfxkt2XmaXL9rg8-piu9nmWKeKRvBgJl0BISQ_Yf_IgOqy5Pw233P6hWsoqVgX6CgQnaHLBFYmDOqFUcZqK3EaDrVLZCrj-P1D37K9ZQ-UgH9nYVVBRCRbVc0me3OxRyWjtkGpS2YpVVnCQNwXr3H4nOlvKj3_WMzjUccNoif68QirnUV34-WpMlYz2HHohTF7ioXNLVTDfctXgrmQd2oGR7Buqw5ripQcElnn7TwQXwVI9icRijCwr2Z7cfcbhIkuWpwdQKNt5q4fMEkUhGMEddWkNe5dT-SN8YVdxs2_p38fAfLj716jIVbgSDSuZcXOLxLIOlkri2hVGXkY82fRLlW33-7amKCvr4prGCVeYW87eEIk3DPERcEIkjNAUo43ve0D84sb8PXikuy9Vtve3VxxNXZ64USoLGd6UwY-EjHm5cBy30z7bZERBd23P7IfGzY1mfzC_mNhyFwh04ES2NgL01IZqnks6qWIbhD19Ir2IfKFrxaBBDiUTkOMbJovmXKTjwXYyBPfzXqUoD2pWnvOHDLY9ee5IMMyhq9yR51apeL2Gs6yaa3MIjNF2GQZ9iXB7r24WHUdHpXHdWQs=w800-h453-no)

The old upper control arms. The bushings were deteriorated and the sleeves were a mess. The area where the bushings went was polished like chrome from years of wear.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fDfHU0P5GgZxqKbls8AuYw75IM0bpxGTX_svBSikMeecL7QKlWLZmSP3n8P6-Tvd45dRIEqZv45RwxmTa-COoNyv8uJ6kOJz2N38TPK3UQJH3EMJHWwLxXkZHPZkcUV_PQRQ5IPkqtXelWbo98-OWqeD704JtgGeTb2UiukdTrDa4ZS-xhKH74YYyWe0ap39BnE_HUabsKCs33dgIUVyJNNWrZVceWUw5YRw5dq9TAGyAt3KhNfj_gMuAI9g3YaJl7OppgWMVhJW2QSpN6w62FsUYBvj62iKc6lWeczTs1FgB3QmYVDvEfpeROwSHLroh9Oe2UzNPAJ88Oz-mhp7p3qB1AFnNtzD_lhkfg8Uc5TCyk67PF6AzoSvE9uz8RBBMa9kse3ADMvjCXKu8HpR-3DRTqqa1fttCryg6LV8216snhOgQ7ucopcrO0LlmSo6Xa_i2gXGc37s3S1nWFZSuVtmbANiFiZkYPq0wyjwhD1-9UDRRW6_KA5yRqlZO2FKNAfb9D3SMBhxcOr1o0ThRViSiyGiYOfe_oZtZ8fnkOmpwzBtwxCWxjKIuGSqV0dxTdH7uyTX-ev-91AcoLVWVGihs2tY5Y2CivOLTT4s4tJ4jnveq4ZRoKAIJX96pylMMPIWOuN7xldZrP_nYfBabujloJ0-Tnk=w800-h453-no)

I'm not sure if this is original? It appears there are two layers of steel riveted at where the steering idler arm stops.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/WqBDf-MYU3FBSP3YhP9sHa2MdLGJS-Gqnm6TGLrZYOLlS9qPu9U7BmuG9LxxpZBCQouQea8Qb3LA4XmQsnA-Ym2qHOQwdVxrQJeh_ceTHbtkZtraRfTM6zm-CNdbqP3nOzc-0g928EJeHZxBHIQtmz1qbYCYKutg1eXLHW1aKvfVkLJyEvSafPPJlYhVJls5LeZRRymNPhIvOIGuLeDKLRq9SMxpA63ljgKXw6mZvh08LZ2BMOMGOsHNq50ATfipM_UFy1mITP0RL2-zsYV4d7GPvGTqQ7ui9IpR0_a_R5pa5u4LpM7Q_sqHvnP9a2fAMGTVu-Jqdv5XCbS4QckXa2zj6VwvAUBOIyuNtYm-uDBCcGrCrbJcmLcZ8X9VMfh8sp82kV37ZfQ2GXgm0__h20l9CTEFJNty_aEmxWEFnT9Umd-VBOKL0KSeVIx4ECFCUuUsqoTvcf_Pi7nGGJ13AKm4AeaS_nPkijbH71HXfbTjS6MIX_CA0rdAE_dARd5CzqFSbDEqWKGTElYTtgrH4zURXL3OJYl4d0LYQXxqIzuvUGcwpQ07IE8_sHVKRAom_rG9zrSFKqshERCS7eBQjPYHILMFkSU99KUtfg6KLKwQLeOVFnhqimLwMJdw1luPs4QNdCK0iaSx0cIz_cnF1VPgheNhESc=w800-h453-no)

There isn't one on the other side, but there is heavy wear from the steering Pitman arm hitting it. Maybe I should use one of the two pieces of metal on this side.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/F9eY6-nxsWcgxUalrbqywE-y7QjOkdhNfXvSarfjuoLFWIpZ97DLnjZEu6qrEQpvKdWB0urpfit8ziKsu0fgks3zol6XSCtyNDfYvWVQHtQbHq-5bVpn2RQBvID9L-IJNqNOxLO4qk5QW7ZmTEYIsXjC3_vOWNdae-Q4hRRfDXyACS32UzMU3MS5IW7V5EqOoYStRBBQBznq5s0CN2JuNf-4XAmKM5ONt1-mRRmxlgN1QTKikSNSK8trSj2al_Dx0DzDVImqD7hyL_VXYxTQGChk4g1WHxnuydULDdQFFVMS1vPq5UELBpgM_Er2Z0xKdsmcB730UcOsTNsAhTp5EQcnS0TAXbukWEUMeR20YHH6buESa30DEm0zfxkT1Quxd8hy1q3RAGCFrvBCGUdT602QgIJCBxtUWm6WS03jWvzB9l3YjEo6gv6ldJ5Xzy1v5GPEtUFfMdRaoFGcalt9MNA0IHSj5M2IhQwhjPHGH0n6_jrRrzQxHzZCdF2reJt9WiswWWo4vJ4gPsUD7SigDZMll_t_0NGHhAnm8-6IfAHsIr23C07OKA28_vtdqjJ2B9223XAh3CFVUoWUfN8KJuxT5szH5j8X1Dt7ldUz5LyC1XAIkWGp00g6kJZRWKa_4Zz_eLcWntk8x_CTg31QT21lzZxUv1Q=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 17 July 2019, 06:51 PM
I honed the inside of the pipe that houses the steering idler arm so it was clean and smooth.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7nXhAQM8Sx1uETVFLWehjz_ER8ybyKk7wvrdN1FEp9kjVRRhCjbZyzf3iOui1wvvQsWU7OXB4IaSKHWGAdG0Ec0ErSeacWFScdh5zQFVTtsxEhAIvlYlE4SR8PtRMXUZYr7ISKnJ0v492BwxIjYqRZ3cTL8O2Ycsn7nnpJ67UNL-S4t61EZcpUB16lQvkslQZJa9a3I_zDP2u8PQvly2hHd2rle9IyOoxYWZjLr3unWESV61EJJyOLojuHjA74gW2dvV9ooMrcFLlJE092DKxl4d6ItB6cpeCoXmL-t8yDKGs4eyqRkYwX71d3UI644uPEUzWik0-bHNBjz38cbyCJ7mXlBt4g3037OKSYPQCWB8UgLk8N0Gb_O_Q3vSf7qurQLQxNKCHqWZ6j3zVCdCISngg756gGmk6om6UrqAPU8l2eQh7G2eEhNyAyDimYqfffN-pgci5TLVyqPsGM9D8YY0jocYe4iS9PbGtP6L1D3Z9z7wXJMYnPka55LZMPSXg_e4eLe6NZ5SU5MGM5mZG_-J9Nl_cKpnOGpno1q-_mG0TFpcjZTmp15bP_I3XUsPmsXeaFl9-3wlELz2hElOMd02ztfNPxg0pwkvE1aFYmGlGEGnn9NCCtvDfvZ_Qqi-xzfcvE1UcHnmndd5SXUZLIbyoBevTXE=w800-h453-no)

I used the idler bolt to install the new genuine Mercedes idler arm bushing kit, starting with one side. I used dish soap as an installation aid, but it went in without much force. I did apply a little RTV sealant under the top bushing to keep out water.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/QqvaZl84-wzOBAn-f7eT8tUnn9lOg7vLmzInpQldwlh81e-IyHab9uAKwkZ3igLwrNwEyv6QHKNfYDQi0OarDCG0fUet_YguzBZ2AQiq-DJwUUd3iJlNei88NIQAPn8Bp63BLxRC3Lbik65wFJZLRzkpp0yys9OmzOw3YNyE3U1vAsUADNtzKk_UmwF6bZELsR0ovDzGl3WFOoiCqVxwjALcQIo6UNgeKZLR5LZksKaqDjPmm2oGYPk91Vx8z66IWaDowBKeWoKeVIeWfXZlBKB729KVfic4fSim4OZ4hZfiTUZ0QCSzOM3koX1WJANmDUS84kYAuMnXOR6So_o9Rn43yzT05ig-J2IHXBw4jeekiLV1aJrRIq7C_QYgJ_pNPmad4mRVbz4B_LZcRC0q-rZ38rdZfrvWHLWb6lJhoakuS0UEhiQEj5oJTpaeG0yd-nsGlB1mxQGTBVTTFWwR69pPE74lQnsEo1m_4bP98A60Ocp2jwWsXpk1NJfwoFPhheCfINpSIjrC5hXuFzByeebeb75oWIAHdAuDLDnUw8IdjK4JA1z4Z5NwPINEALXthALpRGyFjmH9MR-3Sr2QyS-hborMufjR7pF_J5IYkG_lwXp-piTOkY3FXP1kbKK3s2uMp9484P7lqSiavmEmhZ8pfywI6gQ=w800-h453-no)

Idler arm rebuild completed.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fqEjEdORz5TRhD2QV7GBI2z2UvcUL1faNJ1MC2m1AcvV9VPv_-x9S8eNgfcaGLmx7XTrIFu3ZcPBqn8GPuHBQOKHsmLiEmJio0bDhWO-vQS1Lesps5WsIyZf2DqsspXpuwx3i1d5HMZJ2IC0kLffwO3KIV6Ksa54DRU8K5bP_zyRhkX2WamkxcX1vvuihTR2TeTBZ7NkT_yNktg0i7t-CLECLu0vrLWUOPh1uNgG2-dQmnHkLCqh0GuDS3jwUHo797D56nNWS_wlm8Ab0SfzMnuAfOaSit5ezu-8_k7ekC10aPy8AIWzximSGlYvmw0hJLXCIAx_5qiJW53vufRCZE9-y80wbwoGAP3lge-qSRopA1CUpnsOF4gnebjLUp9CqmTbWzApk9LULiuSYCWzmzRPOkV86oRUPL5qppNbvcZ0I5hQ6MTDVREMs82EfiGCqiRooknra_4OmcPOimd_yF07ix7YhY6axrLgVYziIKDarz8sHpjMdCkab-drm3TLCzbmsIAKP1E4_hfXM8tCPQ9R9wPtpkEsgMtpFr3v9-9x4TExPvBamf-qKIYujKkoMejKtEYTpxxdlJ7sdeWW-_Jdm5Aol5VBjj7fdVua2iQyT18yOC92yHyT4JU6OsTgy1FQ0BbGlrJ8w-gWbJ8FhDSmwJxKbj8=w800-h453-no)

New Lemförder center link (made in Turkey) and tie rods (made in Germany). Even though the left and right are different part numbers, they seem identical and the W116 used to use the same part number for one side. So if one side ever becomes no longer available, I guess just order the other side and use it instead.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2A4YSVlB8DU5UM0YIabECoL2lIAyymg2lYBTksWk4ZHqviIGyM8I41DN-gg1-qFoa3ZPTKz_Ge33KCVtbGqeyXOlxEtAp9ykQkI9erwam_aF2lGbo_BoueJ2LTFxdPT2NsanmdWVaFLy6I317feAMDv4gPmHZ9VmoTU4U4TA_D_wrql-VfOjbT71GHA3Y7K2zYl7I7LjKpXzDErLep-WP4qO-9AobKBgbu8JbLGcobXC_lVGXMco3x-WTHHoe747wqv_7omkpEyf1kx9aeUFaOHH2Wa8CdjehWJCX6EaWp0ShR5VY4Vzz7wlsz5cdYN_Wx33F1wALUPWR5tlgqngT8Jq2bRwcnAMX5tVOQRMwGZD_DwTRTd6csgaOAn2GA9DZqNIHX1CRQAhU045V7vWVruLzvg0ntZO6UNYzd2dzjhwfT0TTObDiHF2bcIqRYn4TEqAfzrwwbTuI_Pkw89qQA-imjdDbONm--sz0ZbaZ8X3lx4j1V0qE5zZPRC-M7ebyAWRFSbT1dSiCGLewBn0kDqYjr_9H_luQRTt7jV9csdQ3POye_VygMDK2ZbDNHhGyD55k9bJjchn-l57fezzqxntxWWXt8SFysONJB9ZKPGL8AeKty3eDimfCKjb4XNFvXgqcvu4FZP2Oa44T0hwbeb5foXS6fU=w800-h453-no)

Steering linkages, steering damper, and spindles installed. But, this was a step too soon and I should have installed the lower control arms first, so the spindles had to come out.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5fOlS62eFMAj64gcQOLAOSHigpPYxbBUzZv5Efc_lgKcGql2RwWtFfDoeA5_eLgWTPMCxWTjQ2tmYz_qkqrhqGrX4_WDaAyjh6_vNHH3hxw-KwgZfRQ5w4kzrkRocVDhzArSFk0zWgQpgtBWYbPrihrps4tIlMGSQWYG-_pS1noYeneKSrNNxT74T-vAjfJmGXtjgD_E_uMK08nqwI8_SHZtqwDCTSgT9EWX5aHB1wLd0WwPHVkNBnG6YzKbggzJa3d42I0OCmjWCeqnnwlfD1AjxYF9ZunVKAj1LWEH4jY4oNXevyqik32NXeFGieXvsl3NGruhdJXp02Rt91dc9juw44URjfSqVWhwPaC4BLirgpPUM2hEDDvpn1SF5lpIwK7qcvtXE5PDk0xQy-emOUXo_AGaA9CzAJ6hZiX5JB0R5ukc3jEDg5CVOac6bRsXhRv4ESyVv2on6wPQdSXLCYMZXu685UNOkGS9Rc0g8dA6D0OQQrR2Cj2B9lWDdA8sS2RRxnJ5D9eT06Sp-zyNnkA5avHoJjEJxj_6CbX0JPtz1GnqSXyCoVT1WPPF1UyHbymJy8IcOaPVaZuPNaqu9j1tOwdw1eI3MrumdETOLHKA7Igx3B13A6dB7WeucLMHNxFE5Lca6nLfzdF_K9Jkh0n5rPNm1TY=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 17 July 2019, 07:04 PM
The lower control arm mounting brackets on the body needed to be spread for the control arms to fit with the new bushings. I used a bolt, nut, and washers for this purpose.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qdgmORa7lvNnQxutlp406is-Nx5hovuMX_7WL8AJPTdXmepOr3PziS0PQ9vvvXUGktbI68i4C5rxaysQH-cbaN1jwxg17-QZ8XYO1IXO-iqYpWtD0sRSBmqjo71ODBGzHgpEYerPTY_4Cc-aECY5wQ5oDyhK5jywho6x9wcJv4jj6foWEMmq01dlZKJ2nA1ISfWRiAODGy1nl8FIpvh1CXLZoqd68q_V9FjBDifymH7cMCbXTCXmd7ah8oI67uJkxMTK8prDyeW_Gj9xOMPeLUJ9WBMTMKKKCBukLwWg0Aw0SiEV5blq3tXZc_5xIP7i7V7NVsGpoQ16ISS2AaqfVtiC2HxBkLaUofgS3Pf9g2JgWT3N2aAZpLpvsRhsDvqQTeEBm7RsB1b1KmHZ7nzEw8jnfW2dDFjZCDmQVBLnXq79qDQbjlDcmXJzTjQoXPNU7n8Iw0XaWyqD63SJ39FjRidykfeLxEDQpf46vXyH0Un6iD4L5lwx9IkfSUOnhw2Mf06-wzw3pTJgyLq-29s7ejmtCzU06QRUC4qdHc69xPrs9GXWQ6Q8BOUdtaLz-dwdTSMez9iMVPqaXrT15F_sUBr5HQpxCaL6YUEZapcu3-fXU8a1pmmlCjrC0nmYYem3ByKEN6Aynsmu42qB50zvXGXr7tPPXUo=w800-h453-no)

After using a sanding drum to get the holes nice and smooth that I enlarged for the spring compressor to fit, I painted the edges with POR-15 Hardnose Paint.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JEGm9mMjUpMvHFhFGb_2SXTPRO19_i4miHidiad-WYVoMWJIdHEo13n-4PITchM5_TPOIG4THcPHFoPsw9euInGAhV_HB7AIcd76xTV7XgTmnQPQLfxyrtUDCAh_7Zl699V0e_VD0L6NWdtTQqCXy7FfU6ul9-Uiz0S732LfCAPj_o60sED0pHq84fO5Fmp1E1t4UjhWjtf9ME8uPtHi3Sf3ZUVvbBSAE3TRbCYssx9448UWIAP5TlhDgJCaeSYTgcXQgATE7Cf8ZWgOoi0e2q1Jv92zcr04IA7XCTUvtKzCadkrnkmJb7wzw8CtCAMBlpK6CWwdWF1Znxu8Hp0JMm0l6TtqNwuHo0oDmrQnE11-wupmignyoXpiRMq0KcKxpDPPMqYM9h9QS2d0ox-CTNlz5uO6j7ituS_bd4SaC-ObJFaR6TQEd0NHGcCqFylW8nDCtgUDEe058y-ua8WxHG5UxtntbDnCBq7qRnWRisuqQ1a_XUSIDQDqLRqnZd-Q-c31Y7H4WMozeyqwLS5JdDjIbfCw3GPuxxl6LNKlRuO4uWkUMLm5JqtUSeqCMlV0fQA_u1k9VLLguDjvcU2XuInWB6R7iHJm6fFG2urFGUBs1Xq10aiICtj8B2bkLrFbgxLpVbfxIz9fvQ6NLEABfspxSt9pX1I=w800-h453-no)
 
New genuine Mercedes front springs and pads. I made sure to match them according to the number of nubs on the pads (four).
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/z6rlzhoVFaRG7AD3n3ULlGVLMgjng09eOW8ZCuZzqbQFRVuKnnKmk7sv7wepnm0wDdj-aGqLs6IPvjBS8cbo6WSLD8fmGGNoekbnhsPWn-2NwKhf5QsdNg1QYedqjzMcPMczVqnTEDW7LaHMiGqhaOmNfRifFqgElCjywkDbI0ZstbDOn0H7F3QpEFjIvN5_2JAeMdDme1LCYal8Qd-h1jlevsfolKPhPqSnZjs8vsVnTRxtQpygiN1NslY-tDY69yvIJHsdd1biyEhMjnXH53AePoBbuT2yVtwmo_ShwEiqi9PfqLAueI__y9AOcv3wNa8f7vfiAFD2vPsYEiSN2HCU6HZDmhPfQgaWcV2MazPRfDar0ZeA2VR96NEhgI-Mqzu6BCNCRV5uRHpONkI-rHFX-u4Nso6H--ZGW2m2zvJGHf-QCsKWUGtZpSq53QgNiogu4f4FR84FvByiKFO0wUaCrSGKEkuTQGE9skXUhQHrehEFYSv20cdUY2q7kE75J0gajc16grw1PhpMEl_exY2VtATQ2XGVDx69fVZsswoy5drSDHuPBUl6VDmi4MCVpf0G7e5n6ZoAptwqsAeZk3kWa3w_471xPmaUiEevAAB-YQD7n8HB4FLNqsucpBVprxmqrAxv5jZ7RxAoeDsEOL9GQI-51cs=w800-h453-no)

Using the scary spring compressor again.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/QToyruU9PfvoSycoL-0zoT_02P4tl6ufsXoJOD2mC3vtxU6K9bIVs4hI2IagfZl6ipo5jBgRT423YPDwkcev_ugMkzP6DnusRvX6YKhV4FdvFJpdur3ZSwxf85oy5ZNi1Kn7_-ZeagV5v74uuxyPHzqwPN8VrnNAV8fI8D_LaEpKuwey2UvjrFxX_gZ4upgbGbFfZeDGS5Xwluwcq4IMUhpTi5esGddvmZvZfOnO88KJrjGiWxyXYnuxbwZCdqoDlxF9oWbDzaZvZhjFFBK5CwRNgpEiwuAzJYHb3fycjbzNJ7rIHqQp6R-t-tQ5CQoLc3PgZUsw4E1GqDlO2ind2bhZxmPqUp3K9ORTWo4xM7nvhuCGk7OniU-mDHGm6dmf8yQnjYMqMw0YsIZhQgM_PA2uPG55DoVHxwzbXIYI-HsWYpLNPu_JL0Z4wAVsMPabTwDZZ-Nlk4a_T2TOXARASjTIM0GcRFRHiWVowFh73gzxbzcNEeI1DNGPdPW6Rd6s9rqad78fqWMoYlJXWoKwBBb9ugWjtqFm8yLt48aACiOyQEiqnI7dD1jaNnAOvK4b76mNjnzAuqn7rrGDhCwByswNWvRKzX1x0gZY23Mq7lhBhGVeLFoIcQA5YZ3Nh4yDSHshBKkDBt1vhDdnJ4lukdwkv9FLGo8=w800-h453-no)

Supporting the lower control arm was a challenge because the jack kept wanting to slide out. Getting the spring seated in place was rather difficult. I put the spindle back on, starting with the lower ball joint because you can't get a socket on there if it's connected to the upper control arm.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/BLxWqAXMlLDyDF3qV-WQ5YzGks1xhrI_2f72mhiWKpXcRnZpm_F5v9YB9UuyrOrJUXGyjltd1Trwc3OE7Wh3-MQ2hI3B-ht-ylS_HmndQE0gmT2zjuDW93W1ScEF9jz9Y6BP1i1Z-vM0MLgY9_Pf7TjeRno8ca0kUoKARuIrrca-4foZSiXA7WBNiBV_B8squP_fXniaklmFuuHVsZRWhgp25_pSwq-aBtfD4JRmcKyKhHluAFdg1qgn38R_e01iGWKrt6A8pRbZaHZoSvuHLHJH5Llr9TpPrkxd4FhsrhZ2ljVCoaStMbWMvW0NIhv0HhkPKr0buwm7H4RZ3JgnjD4BKigNXMar92NKCljvc1ye8r9t_bs3E0H1fuK3TBe6eW8NzKf4NbZDRpy5ynldACNpm9toAoZQN5TwMZkOQ2A6pdrVUZqBYxZSOxwzuP9xFO__mC2xYhxTqJcQoyCYlTXutd7juEKeEARWiDtlyPA2J6doTW90Lywg3eZeVGlWI79sHtWrMFHkFKkJg0EAkFlU1cjo2sOM6PeU0Nv5GI1lZ7i5UlEmtP7S-MwjQLYdo9KoFkvrL6VWJczjY_v8jA-YyAnjl9R46flwaFGuJGchKsdsxTiViRsM5OneNUkEWYjPG2HzzVmAkN7T8m3448TP02yIJmg=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 17 July 2019, 07:15 PM
The upper control arms are installed. I think it's easiest to attach the sway bar before attaching the upper control arms to the body. The brake backing plates have been cleaned and treated with rust converter. None of the upper or lower control arm mounting bolts should be tightened until after the car has been resting on its tires for some time.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8o1vmTqaD3kQcxIU8i9vn6KbFvFHiW0KDRpcpxMysP3i5yoqxyq4ipcop1zWXBVmfgs1QHjUwrrNCstEtX1lKGj3AnC7QLKKEHpVDkrgvUTushtN6GHCGQHdKEcBdBcw_dG3WU9-8KC4yTylZP6eVhcOomMrFDiDOCg3piNBfARXbp4RRBtcqGjkFrbyy3aKaqSeKRKy8aUxVHCXW5vAcDFgNaTpEydJ9DfEr5TdApXc7BvuofMOMbiKQkpxl-Pm_nNGB4Bze1G-lJ5KByXs9BWk2YOtHGwcK7WgOXV7cBHxU8crd8aUeTS1xQwkkOUKEMzola49xcd36oVuc68BMOz4bxTpaeWRheV1sJ-l1RMz2E9-WsYAc1bNAI8IjuT4-bSHnwW0icX8W6Omga8PKCilsTFXP31QWactEL3n0qNaQiyFKB2mzHAnR7lMaQR-theA49LmpxZl0utIUZnWk7OuTT7fsR8a-Bqc3uvSe3JiYcVBkJsdImZ5raG6YVHCDjNszk7OcUa54L9UeJqr7MiaQSLuTOSAKem3EahfSGC5MdXXvU4wp7oLEPkvnUAvADiAC4FqmOJxva9gpXv69so_KOfinO_uG-AxF3rNf2ICgC1cipMgQjW3oqpcXQEb61YYXCQTDMmeldXgiVaDge-Q3BYdCTw=w800-h453-no)

The rotors were put back on and the wheel bearings set using a Mercedes dial indicator.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kW3iP8jPZdYGD2CFHC6W_ZfW8NILwMjLasCIGfH0pM7bazRu0xP67AZjveTf5GQof_a1x4dqQLWuVPLH8Zp5IUZB1HC0Q5SbbueW9-9tJD4udYktxvytHpD3k5qVdNSKjNzenLKEd8urHpmqjY0NUukWSbiysg6U4rY4o3qXiQ4C_rxuazV10AgHo0PRpjsHVIxTF9l_NJ9vL4nTcSnAeVW_xF0K0QKNqOnTDVYBDu6n6pxfXQf1ELaznm1HEAk6UDRxZCAyYY2T9Fj4hEIdvUx30mapNpVffrJpkefcBnkl7i23tLb0wUvbHnWxFtJej4vVbAvwTQGze411utKl0xdHz9KPnNS_O9OJM3ZLC6fYsBJrYA46SFBWxf5s3qFK1wCrZMW4rYCETtz7mNT0K-4MIHjKeZAnU-bXl9icNdTCx8T8cpTU0t0hyY0NSUprpNr0j6P0jTeYuA3nmsrnF6BSV7_wMY_CdTA6-ejlVfLS5AiiZJQgMf5I9t_6ajB2vaG-RPObqnqrrKAcwZaFNr-zBYlBWebux1kTJnLoU7amBHNRgd_rLv3fNezfwpV3d1ZUV7tz8vMG2uZb6LR5H4ZdXgzAgkXuZ8NlqDDHoscjWDYhcQ2Qvm2i1W0oQsty7jy_slX_WjGf0khpjKx8D9o0BISUa5A=w800-h453-no)

The front brakes are installed.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/x5LmorGrkDLSVUM9589-pvg9zr8hWDxXnv6OFeogKO22FktXQXkOHv1G3L0c4kT6-1qskJ0pN8y4EaeTb_hsRkL2kS8hPpNHEUtqYmmIRnsgAi3zpPd_hujUYm54-VXz87ZlBi-uEkBjbgctyvHapl_lpdTgTHVsN3liRqnSXk2ariPdOBVeT0CK2tLp5Gv8p6jvrIoLFRaFJ642N7RnAYpueLrRYH1mFJGJj2adU5lhimhA3DVIrCtnq00vkYp-N3NIzSWeBl9b8GSozm8vJOh6HPpMIp5DkteZkaPogofyF2BGm77swowwVV9uDEOoLsZ1qKNBYmaw1n3Y8NSsdllYc3rul0lGKHxoXA4WHYntCXzKM1GV3SrQwokHu5XWko9LPJ7bZHvV0Vibgg2nxWzQbC1KCDE7ufbiIprXBgoZAFEQ69wy9deIuiEUBbzQ8YlwN7g7qEMVUp1J7xlFax316mlURTfVBc-EhqUp52dKyT7NRbj22oZ1yWiEaOLN7H4ipHtp-YCYDkGG1ZDN5dYspltRmuWPTk0xvRck36s-s8J7k0oSc2TbYxk9_1rXDigLiV_dQMb09pkmBjJBdB1h3U4o0yGxUL2pWaS8RdqiZ1CDo4jJDQyr-Pp55KNP48Dz6TxR0tcb5dDEXGx4SJhsmmaFKZA=w800-h453-no)

I got new caps for the shock absorber nuts.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/I3izRvwgjs900-GSOOaopqDmJUOHJEUOinCGUML1A5_YJeGIO58FQmKWH6-Zx9kVEg-5sRiXq3svgruK5wCskDDXwJ-fMzUf6XjiUFsiv_zQ5iAognBj2WQs9SVP1_snArsla91ztEaB-u_djGimVcNoDbchgwvb_Fn6aIK8hZt62hHi6c-_3oPIxpXC4-L52HO9GfallSJgHH27A6i2ItfjCLJ3ji0TPVV1bc6xwt35506WbWcvF7iShCOwwaja_A7M4EWo8sHvE8uNvxUCJzsfaYw5fwoBXgbAUxgdDxwC6lLTLsgLWEi__hbgDeVNUGvAUF1JU6ugXOXPovD4yfcHhlVybLmzTp0V4tI5ofmWS1YVvxvfNGtm-nuw3cW0BhzwH3hx_NxTCqxsIGRj1m0O9CYfUQyWZtn314Xu3euyga1TQK9uxsY3Z9pU63FLmJmSgsjuovp3-Dh1AhgQQMIDMrb--ziVhehZ7myMe1eM7hN5ALJi-4tpmFcm0KgCJjBOi8OgAZH9LbkN5OaRem1U-CQFGySn7iNM686E60GEWk550VKoHIEyNRByqkMqvbeSl_eSzDdoZRWBKrrELsBDbcXU5y5RRtkfbXI5DZSri5prMCEFaYZ6vbRksbZoTgZrd2The42rv-zyCBlJzbT7Geoy4dA=w800-h453-no)

The engine compartment looks more complete.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/S6a5IxlxZAWm6iahrnjtNvprjfV-bsWcsECYeiQZljv-Lx3RZz6WlFGjCl-ChcJm1Oz-JRwZcGlUVx02KBfvOu_V-OWCKN7d5Ey_fzqc5MSMzykDDeTcLdbdCQvP2c6w9YdjVUDGoZMDwsGomKazaeVOvsXDziK9WwF9PFVn95_XqLEEAh4CLgRdYTtZx5tl8mFeYUtmikBwEVn4WuNWAEai5R9Zecv1FkIUnHAUTl9pZR3VVwzkyMwj8MGE6CUCu1yPK3IEXDTBgY7riKAktChrXoPhL8IVG9KFTwBFQ7Y29845Nz2Rt80ZXKEMXd27A7CXGpwwoESOkGAyZAF3c5Ti_dxkibgqclXiGxKWZ1qBl3iuOXgVdSZtsrFst3zwOWB2Qanlyr4D1coPTObj-tr1ecS4Tmp3RtMjV9254D9LHnM-BU3kOI9IzHhIVhS7Ew8MePN6uwLfZav-X_vTE88ZZN8RQpKe9MoRK-9Q8_izWa9zGbCnuazBfuq5YiIynFu9qn5Vluk9CKcnwoRvJ8exbM62sQcjI9YT7ayB5pm2Wev1QV2BsuJXGfvWbx3i-m35cdtHEwpbOLSe9igGXWW5mUFeVguyFtugs5qGyJPbOopupZLDtSmlWl152-kq5JHNR8Dm34NyfNwmdSlsj51YTwaSiVs=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 17 July 2019, 07:45 PM
After the vehicle was resting on the ground, I tightened up the bolt going to the sway bar to 100 Nm.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fO5ah34_iWbDKfHkfC1nL2oyW9_sLmXTg608C3L5Lki83sujuLynFTQ5Kr_gIlKL02oVvmauCQ-AzIteyRxepACl-Ra6AU7NJBGCuTWYx0Yu-6AmP5E8-w5eSzauUqH0HtysGgwA4hvyBnU0EmbxDNBH3Y1SO6Uw6273hpFzVc3BKrtaDg1o_ZiZ90uqG_gKv8Pnw8cXcdNLpYT7MAs-o5MlhYCLfFZzg0Go_FoEoVsBW8CYAwZ0EGSC25ws3fcF-yyhngOrX-5ewcxIQfgQZzMDugZ8yru2XOYMJAkvPwmBpsBnDCoKaKWPAgiGz2WDzaoNWbC7oeX7RahpBr0-kMHxbNXSYi4nKJvpana77fuMSajSaMdhmStg9Xwq51WXLc_AH3o5n26g1nwf4A1JoC5US6askf7kFv5Z2MaSx5XbSvex2Skm3x9N78fk2JpiHXHu1QzvBDVHh7LBzE8qdvMz1003TGXEvUWLRab5aO7M99DvTPTVCedJYrjx0Ps9HbOrLeornAeGda2HgHuYkLLzmnF577Hrztfu8NJXxMPmGT_W848R0Gd1vWBpH9XGdoq9YbAdJEJ3mTOobH-hqr_GOIdqY6f60sNEqbIslb9q_hUAqP70whdNMkwDgDirnxGVEihUk12q4nq3ceZGmbfXsbkV1qM=w800-h453-no)

Then I tightened the clamp bolt to 45 Nm. The upper control arm mounting bolts were tightened to 80 Nm, and the lower control arm mounting bolts were tightened close to 180 Nm (it was difficult to get a torque wrench under there with the vehicle resting on its tires, and planned to have an alignment done, anyway).
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/p7ubAqbb2tvsLkunicRc-fRiXvUf7pNs4A0mXtzMwPF6TZqZqi59pHExBoN6YjMMIKISNYe2o8PpVclkAcKE6TOZ0J5Y33RrK2W0QMFjfUqwJuYGjIP6tmakACIcW8P9GxlKzW3ywDbMu_m5K8rySqApNkXAfs1nBe9RFT7oL3MLtor-Nl0PAh0SblB7WcX3_PFYgHRhFKW0pb_dCFpDFOyjNnH8R70qvf3rbmch-X7FD2V5jfWdDC6WGBUYIgDKgODtU7qRrjZOU7c59Vx5VPQk8cQJkdt-WQ15M9OVvOOrCnE2D0KeV5PE-c1jg5s5INuzoQ_n4jM6l4xlbiUekjYJQypkSHPSAKyq7mZJYV8Ee_FubDiZhGLSPKPyyKoV3tjV66WQpyOL8gJGvhwkf2UyUwM6evjJWLFgbapIZ1LJuqyOAPt9RsaWeDKtBmHoAB91WTIP0HE3woh_rujUSJ3_HhWrLUuWatpSrBHLpUqzAAhBkzA4ZosPsfFYYapZ2codC9yzDuD-1PsvnVZsC7zNgnpBZLoa07pmK18I2q64L5u0GUtFcfkdIDkYXbO-ogKFsGT1wAgrhbTCz6QbhDKDX0gfG74Xfm2FpqAOK8JhSZEW4K6z6SRjz9SjEcny4LKXtp9yHlXhecB5QoPhtZrhQxAfDx4=w800-h453-no)

When I bought my car, it was missing the original air cleaner and had a cone filter attached to the turbo, which was partially melted from the turbo heat. I got the proper air cleaner and then bought a new U-shaped plastic tube (617-098-05-01), but it was the wrong length because it fits W123 and W126 cars, not W116s. So, this meant that the air cleaner rubber mounts were setting in the forwardmost holes of the mounting bracket, which allowed it to rattle on the battery box. Finding the proper part number for my car (617-098-02-01) was difficult as I needed one for a 1980 model year W116 300SD (which doesn't have connections for the vacuum pump). But, I got one really cheaply on eBay. You can see there is a slight difference in length between the two.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ee36972sG0-0HNMxfcYvFQP_tIGjSq2iLBYseOunHz0WqjZjF6THZS14sbKberBB3vGk4DxTOwCwn8NIWV3Pk8nPhglH1rmWHnrlxZniHmG0tPU0LYS5r-3VBl4_DVANNNrlRRu6oaNoGKpZGUmHhmAD6prP1pgO4bZJtfPrgLoyoeNeZo1abKAm1vHWJyngkECIqFeIclCGZKShpFcbs1a5TrEmcC2rn92DEd-DTm9756VowGQxnDLIyEQ0rYwAPYa6t8Qx6L3lEGIdokAi2IOMFzRuGxzhUxWkqmA7VtFFY4_PtseLzCtiqaUJX56szilPxJ_354QkmtmojvY7uKlzKmKA4XxeqNJXxYU4QtB9EVM7qvAEtE7wKKrzU9A7RdXoTPuqDeXBEi8PvuLkLOU5LwVa-AjhtkA9aSAUf9NFiqSXtSBo0cOJwex1KWH6axcAKBbrJaHAXSf8zsNJZRq_1JtuwlUQ6MBFRP70ut_-Chdj5z6aDdT3QdbNn_Bs9pFSCbrzLDlhBYLLZQTFM4Z3YDUQKCaqPJkKoYuWwghDZXweh_Xti_05FspnxvUmIHIz-gwBYjNO9HdsD0x0NfXK2XeMO0Md_MoI2Qw-yWn_3sQONWQWsXPVViOxPwDMs6mvbwdur9QLUdif7hai5twOagvb8rg=w800-h453-no)

Installing one of the rubber rings is difficult. It's easiest to install it on the tube halfway and then push it onto the air cleaner.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4_GFjHBP5S6icHSV2ISvpJcP76hpBJhnlqqZkIpsH6iZkwd12HZIM6Xvlw6Rws3xKEpxnChx9Ptq_AErJnMrbmzIvLQUYJHIfFeKyg2tYQFbjcZ6RxrM7ORB1qvDynhFV6wg7RvZVog4Beqt_ZEiKIpBfxCJI1azm1Hs_KVAfgYVnoikCYV0jdVJdaZsFqxICY0C1OhfCXJ5tp9vfdOr8atyjdymdJrkwDpdIszKP3gMzQ1sZatXQCP1J_zim1N8dBQ7vkY_yW45-fi0FK9RI3DJ4x3B3zrg6zpaak85Z0X6exaGnN-Pgvs17jOi22_EdHd-DoxDwBD1YkYSnTp5slf3P3m2IPIlbysJhudCdyY5tD99v8PPIUjFlm7kKQk6gEr4WwktZs9xCk7pmxwPWmRo8uOCUKulnihvvYjy2Zti3byXwxVXKCDm_u5zeo02SZY8uPvT0GwMhljY0IBJmrEBAac0XXPUHLOOCX4rTXYGT7RhSsLvNPPBiXczkQ2LZehm947Iy1MgfgCdhjpD5itQfZ0h3B1U2FK_vvP90mWNxjznwzBvgINoEAwmW6WpFLO880dhUv9csSa5kfaTngOO_4j68pNr_-DC_FdB5VN-y6Y-NzEFxGdDu6AoudUQmzlVtzySzp1RQQoSMaV0jCUbm6IDkVQ=w800-h453-no)

Now, with the air cleaner being able to be mounted in the rearmost holes, there is clearance between it and the battery box. My unbreakable air cleaner rubber mount design seems to be holding up, but the heavy duty Meyle mounting bracket is cracked in a couple places and ready to break. Here we go again! I am getting really tired of the air cleaner housing coming detached from the engine and rattling around. I'm about ready to replace it with a cone filter again, but I don't want the engine breathing in hot air from the engine compartment.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qu4q5B2TVQ-zvvsw3bedsKlUO5pE_Jio4Ode5g_T3WU8W5-SSEbne6CwP2I0Bsf6v9jP2RRbD7oCkvXL3d4LSm-mgICptM47gU7Fo_wURK6nda8YA-jdWfKoi4US9QC_BnZjyS9kqleUR_xoKPRS7JKs_xwfWVnlcBK2wCg8hfX4ajqBWonr4wEXpgvfMVA91y2j3JRLgUnHzy9YRh5yK8xU4lXX7l7lhDAuq7rp-yPh0jlYzKQpVpHSKCMa5ZxFvRdcaK19vtqr-NIIoooDz1HT9hiVZMrn_anXLrR_8PIYd0lvBz9R-GB1RuEMKgnCVns3Wbj6SINh9h-_-O1yWAG1cU52ZhYFhcFPeRmGSYyNUr88OmSzOUyyUsSiq82s88EzZpDS784GVPClfmxOoBHBWWzu3pxHUU4RjlINJKoRe1ZXSXlyRCWRMYRMztaH8bbS7wR-FXFddr_9BmxiazuYs-MC8KWDYPFUL29jfuwWcWcqS99syCF4BpE1VtCGRbg0Mq6hHH-CKGsvXyjOW-poUS1GMmwzt9BHjQdS3bnT9Pp5zedP5IeftPQO6d9GmPrr2yHoeZKqFJABjKMkuDneik4BXksq8ehUUm0rb6-ZI-D12nfN1IfVMU1g4rFQai4vlEXslozqSZjheDq1QVfP04zRNLk=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 17 July 2019, 07:56 PM
The entire front and rear suspension and steering are rebuilt! It was a lot of work, especially in this heat (as hot as 115F). Everything should be nice and clean so the Mercedes-Benz dealership doesn't get their white gloves dirty when they do the alignment.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lvtpmBZo0VEyUvZwccGnFRQrqj2a4TdzWxjEw8xeYMRu4c-bl3L0w3opXC8C_1ZfC30kDk_CWmPZ2UrlhkFyLtAZDNLJ_fdvFCDmW_WhXrz1f0g0BO_KNLD6mSgLjKfdV6_qcxbfqS4h9dQHWj2qNOhR2pBaxnn6iW0zyRPDeagG6gE7b25ouH7dJkhmaZh7uuA9g3QkDMYMhHjDYI41GOxSgEuy_1XvrNSf66vNVzyqRVTAKV1A6gSKZOqEr7fLjTbHI-gG0H8PNS6LBx1JXLkjDc9BzqJUm_XfRuM-WGsXbNY0wcx7zqWkhmEM1ZwqAAxQrRzEaH5I8OIW_e1pu0yfrYwkGG8jFv0eEWBr-7vAiPBzNbRfzelbsDWTmbc0OjIptpwhuHOqEWMzC0Pu85bo4yKJOYg-TUmWemg0hb_PacIq5N3N6NV8nOV64AnbmIIvDq9yRpKkz5um-72z1R2z8J7x1yyKIgUTgVZ0RE9fKNBRNAVIB2MCxCJrifDezj8NHgswVqtd0KlYtpZ5UMO6zztsw3k384hWmm7WdVYKrTMhavU0LxrYNoYlZRJH_g5g52MrgceoJ7jkwiXy6rdL3GWkfGN-anjIRtQ1JO0wHP5wTBpziyLPGVM1TB33rMeECyN5ECzAZwNy082ayoMqQJIZFTU=w800-h453-no)

The tie rod clamp bolts and nuts were painted over the plating, and the paint chipped off. I didn't like it, so I stripped off the paint from the bolts and nuts. They look much better now. I installed the tie rods so that when you are facing the pertinent side of the vehicle, rotating them clockwise shortens them, and counterclockwise lengthens them. When facing them both from the front of the vehicle and turning them in the same direction, one side will lengthen, and the other side will shorten (useful when adjusting to get the wheels pointing straight ahead when the steering wheel is centered).
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3NZtcUPgcHF0Hyfw7CwdXIxMCzeAUZ7LRvlxFDYiUDwL8zIf38JhhIcazT-GeSdbIeQm_4QfcjoNKb1S3-tc9r1-olxUWrWQENkN2iERBJbHJyjaNZY0P6z57XXKvlelo-Gar1cHEbWgbFKXFscBOLvSuMkv2UDGdAPfg4P_HZaxi64oJekH08OAjfr8632jDg_gtviN3jauYta14-UVewdHwf-GqxRkBM9_UDAfhwXQYA-ysRaoK0qbjZ0WBVf7z_odrRz7o6M1GEX9amCZFzpMPRdp7-oqgd7HmmBY9C7sF4iJe9CrlP51hZU92nQwb5ve2MY0B-pjhJ9sRkTLZYX-G0NV5WxFxHSQqKJeGoGYzquZJ7L8P83YtBSnktfXl5iQ2WREvYliVcwFa7mU8cPtvevsvRwyAlWMUOHXVDYV14NCdK_uzwGLpWkMy7MDFtPOl3PUn3GFyHbWa_A0anK5_3gVUuOwL6gIvIjGMcPyRnBNFPv7PaIGCoAImWNMbPxhPG3bcHTzuKsRMH2lQzmG2V9SImSfa_8CHOYQhFDwt0FJkbVr95GqPDg6Xr6d2BAEpsf6rGeUAMTtVScQE3z3tcArF1q7l1v7SoK1qxxbL_w8i_B1z92p9YBQr0jmJY-6MfZb2LnxxTeolb4HHKgUR-HQVws=w800-h453-no)

My car is back together and driveable again! I have the eccentric bolts for the lower control arms in the mid range of adjustment, and adjusted the tie rods so the car goes straight down the road with the steering wheel centered, and the front wheels have 1/8" (3mm) of toe-in. It's not bad as-is, but I don't want my tires to wear out prematurely.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/98gyJYETHNB6HpK4sN2gvCRT4_9GAMkgRnWz6kUZyxyogJfVBNRDGINU6L-RBsi7LFtw56yFkD1valM_8P2DqjY6VcnqJnuRWMVIuu_dtbFuWefe6aPM11fkJE_U86Dj0oibCIDSyiLBMFomI6GhlLLBjNEQfU9_BBJRVetW9MdHQ8YQ05rADSIjnFtjoalE-dIE1mt_U4R4dtHbNUF2q1f8Ni6vrXeqgb7qJxhQBdORRybOC6xlhQD1rqKUuhkKuDGXAu2go4JlMdUoJxLFXvODm6Zsd3iVBbKjvrllbHSqMMYboIX2FaDoUP_Saa_0us_2DXO5Fw-KORuILkcRrZu80vPc_EYtbiaYsehxsT6JFJ6V84BQF5EDWtqfp1UfndL5Pyr4D69nWkVHNtmZZUF_eM5IjQ2yi-awEFRn8kLn3gHBaqQ9uxE3fk3ubAOITrd0S7N6EkgfAjI2tJBOuLz5SeJdFR4lCSMvjheuHe8tOocKWhPKk29ziTlnr6TmbLwLmcfF7kMLdu_60jiKMWsRK1yO_qESJC1aHzGhX7VEyWASmw9j_MQhjbde3DgOqh8Y7YPpaGeMuzGd4d9bg7oekS8OFCVhBE76vVUsnqQ2bA87VPGmocL9DBStHfIzw-23PgUcbbenLmBEaw8DV2xeZ-zTZSs=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 17 July 2019, 08:13 PM
I called the local Mercedes-Benz dealership on the phone to set up an appointment for an alignment. I heard a groan when I told the service advisor the year of the vehicle (1980). Haha.

I understand the rear end isn't adjustable, but I still have to pay for a four-wheel alignment because the rear wheel camber has to be measured and the fronts set to match, correct?

I've been told that after new parts are installed, it will take about three or four alignments before it's right due to the parts settling. I asked the service advisor about this, and if there is a warranty so they can dial it in if the parts settle over time, and he said that since I installed the parts myself, I have to pay for another alignment when that happens. Darn.

I asked if the dealership has the spreader bar, and he said it's no longer 1980, and times have changed. He said he is sure their modern machine is equipped to handle it, so I hoped he was right.

I also asked if I needed to bring in the vehicle with a full tank of fuel and fully laden with weights on the front floor and possibly in the trunk, and he acted like I was crazy and said he never heard anything like that before, and all they are doing is setting the camber and toe.

I went in for the alignment today and brought the centering pin for the steering box with me. The service advisor met me and said he needed to have his technician look at the car first so they can decide if it's even worth working on, or if it's just a waste of money. He said that even if they decide to work on it, they'd have to shuttle me home because they wouldn't have it done until tomorrow because it's so old and likely to be a nightmare. I already called around to alignment shops before, and the only ones that will work on old Mercedes are way downtown.

An employee who was inside asked me why I have North American bumpers and Euro headlights on my car, and why I have screens in front of them. Well, you can actually see at night with Euro headlights, compared to the ridiculous 5" sealed beams that the USA lights had, which came with ugly plastic doors that break. I told him the screens came from Australia to protect the glass from getting stone chips, and the skid plate came from South Africa. He laughed and said, "So your car is pieced together out of multinational parts."

After a while, the service advisor came out and said that my car failed the test, so they won't work on it. He said the (relatively new) steering damper is leaking and it needs new spring pads. I told him that it has brand new spring pads. He said, "Then you need the correct ones. They make many different types, you know." I said, "I know, I installed the exact same ones the car calls for, AND they are the same part number that came out of it, with the same number of nubs." He said that's all well, but the car is setting too high up front, so they won't touch it. I said that the front bushings probably just need to be loosened so the car can drop down a little in front. Ugh. I went out of my way to replace EVERYTHING that hadn't already been replaced, using genuine Mercedes parts as much as I could, and they still found a reason to not work on it.

So, I guess I will loosen the bolts for the bushings, let the suspension settle for a few days, and try an alignment shop downtown, although they refused to align my roommate's Mercedes because of worn parts, so who knows if they will even touch mine.
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: TJ 450 on 17 July 2019, 10:22 PM
Yep, in other words they don't want to work on your car. A lot of dealerships are like this nowadays, they don't care about the older models unless maybe its a 300SL and even then they'd probably stuff it up.

I'd be looking for a tyre shop who has worked on old Benzes.

Tim
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 24 July 2019, 03:05 PM
Dealing with the suspension has been a struggle. The Mercedes-Benz dealership didn't want to do an alignment because the front of my car was setting up too high and the steering damper is leaking. I loosened the upper and lower control arm bushing nuts and bolts, lifted the rear of the car as high as I could get it with the factory jack for a few days, and then lowered it down nearly all the way before tightening the bushings.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vzx5WZDEuZ_uTlqzmmWWdK9f73RmYGfi3JbThWjktoXy7Y1Hcs-zOUHhuZNN5bHajSNeQEi0zMeUHmtiucWs7doTrXf66pvLldncP8eEFQGjiEv80AHhnkeGIBNRci-SfGSMOJZhLtGtXxSOTXqTrKTanBpcF-9YEqMnDgxNpfYXdpBqJFn9CDiz0o7AyU0nWQgpXjoI687PYR66n0d_IWMDCFUZlXpbibcmy7YDQiNvzSot711HxLFb2HDo73rqR-G8mq9jkTL7t-g4YeG8lT92iOJED031Jd9Ru2TSLlgUxosbREJlJML8L7BAx3KIRlh_Jiu1HYHOLg_SWMSqR72nJkD2mqherd5EmOt-sQuEd4ctX4LcOxJPi0WR-1evfAOhy98j2YzCPzjJwv0CfblRjYloPwSU4St-tj8jc-a5-o76B-vfkwzdGiTOQV0gJoSfkkq3TYqsrnBK5JtZwozY7-MvAm7HdRCBzG2K18uy70pmNMTndS-IK_eoSSAhVn6_PLdPT_XLqCmxspNx8BJPlKjZVUX8_AADjuygGDag40x5o6v4GdWp3dKoxfypLVk68iWtDpGl_23P3u1Xobcw1xnQlMDXxs8fUzj14QYez-3xLHIFDN1pA4nVF3Zr5KnJnvFuwF6g844_j8sXFUeqmGmLSZE=w800-h453-no)

I then drove the car over some speed bumps and to a level spot of a parking lot to check the stance. The front end had settled down so the front wasn't so high, but it still seemed a little too high.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/cn3_yXGYsOiPxPUIgDywZPJjY2MFT3WtKaxN8nqmI8kO53LE84vsxOW7lA4sMxflTDYrQZCoG2LOyETkHKUJ8P6lir0OxHVcQYp38NocChcQ07HDbZ8KSpfLMTDnaid4DyzErKBrTtcYhERMboQu3Xf_tCKfrDn0y8wTG0_edC2riPBO1UeNXYzXdp9Z6HYBhIa6m__x90cj0E9QpLzIMGpUJxakSmRK8zKVBQ0U-bCUSfSeehU8p2_5Amdqx_35ZQhbX8SSblOnn3_b8oFi-GN9t5X4DLPqZBpx2WNDfauoDeXqg_4c2iUGUmYt678qcLRHe4MllN7SlKr9Y3kfK88irJZMT1G03fESHRI8ExbFzeGeBrWQEzCNeXdL5uvDfqei-pp54QGlfV9naND1YmpkFzjrbsrJUZg2x5Vq4E7oIiZMzuRuMCLdrvFPt8OgFtSxtJT05zcvnYoYfz7HFbb_EIb3gPv9-0MdX8myVy9BttylRVBe8mrDm5GwPjzleICFoyKDGd1SFiKtAfieDCVKMMrJ-V8o9j5hzxhrnwGzNCr1B6_57r-fsS-VxUoUu17SbnEOGA4FEAMQXy3X8dGpJXyTp_9tGXZw95TiEc1ZG5zPv6XlAQdxKmME7_VDEEO3xZsvoMGeURWk8m4CZ-yBniea9tY=w800-h453-no)

I didn't understand it. I installed new springs and pads front and rear, and they were all genuine Mercedes and the correct part numbers. But, something wasn't right. It seemed the bushings and front springs weren't going to settle much more than they already were. I looked up some posts about this problem, and found this interesting thread: https://www.benzworld.org/forums/w126-s-se-sec-sel-sd/2366609-89-300se-new-oem-front-springs.html (https://www.benzworld.org/forums/w126-s-se-sec-sel-sd/2366609-89-300se-new-oem-front-springs.html) In short, someone else installed new front and rear springs and pads which were the correct part numbers, but they made the front of the car set too high. It turns out that there are several variations of springs within the same part number. So, springs which share the same part number may have different lengths and spring rates, and when you order new ones, you don't know what you'll get, so you have to compensate for it with different height spring pads. My 300SD uses the same part number front springs (116-321-32-04) as a 450SEL. But, not a 280S (116-321-33-04). The rear springs (116-324-08-04) seem to be the same throughout the W116 lineup (except the 6.9).

My original front springs have a yellow and I think two blue dots (I'm color blind). The new springs have four green dots. Hmmm... so, that must explain it; while the front springs I got were the correct part number, they are either a different length or have a different spring rate than the originals. Since you apparently can't choose what type of spring you get when you order them, apparently you have to just order them in and figure out what type of spring pad you need to order to compensate, according to a points system for which you add a point for each accessory your car has (sunroof, power windows, etc.) and then calculate your pad based upon the color code of the spring.

I didn't feel like trying to figure out what type of spring pad I needed to make the new front springs work, so I just removed them and put the old springs back in. It's very unfortunate because now I feel it was wasted money buying new front springs, which apparently last forever anyway. The new rear springs are the same part number as the old ones AND they have the same color coding (one yellow dot and one green dot), so they should be just fine and might actually bolster the rear end. Rear springs can sag with age, though I'm not sure mine were sagging at all.

When I got the new springs out, I put them up against the old springs and they seemed to be exactly the same length and wire thickness. Hmmm... maybe they hadn't fully decompressed yet. I dunno. The old front springs are back in, and I don't think I can use my spring compressor anymore because the threaded rod is starting to strip out even though I've greased it. One of the sway bar bushings at the upper control arm got deformed, so I had to push it back into place. Then I jacked up the rear of the vehicle again and let it set for a day.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zh-GDgevhO6PhOW8CPAASbcveqS0Lq6gvWw2mqCKg9VdQaITHIj_2UDa-qKx55Txm0dK2rJnZGqkAi5DlGw8YDnDnyOl8eixnfowkwHK8klEun-HG8rAa0PPnmZLf4fIlrkU1ekKMYDCEIq68Rf0mm--6d5oRSjE5GI4yE4ITyyeV-BYhQMky0kmY1qV6x-U0hGKdSWpP9RiyKjUuQq-b-GVMBa1cbsEMxwP8JO80WKQ2vMQ1y74BNvy_VT5mK4FsE-dIlFYGNChF0EeHVQSUO-3FRXCXTVanT_p1fGBJNyKsy5T8eSpNXpjzUha4ppT1p0FKEVUxBK240rRBMOf99eP-U5CYpIH63kxPFLC8vGvf8NrbWubR9SA9v8jIdCKHGftXysdLlKUAN6NOJmYH-VvMHkCpfS3JHq7PBCkeAAK6ImCV5MYEWh4fYgPWjDItjgyRDYz2Br_rVUDd8yYvA7P8dcEVQYfd79mk5xWBI2JzEH8WvD_PkhCqGnE8ciZLyutSHDyfZjceDBPXbmj6QgRz-sqzwRU1gzx3txJfNTakULeWHD9j4aNksyo7ITt6ZiMof9OJ_KJvHKArGsQPLxgAS6VceGj1M9MatncIt9JFv5GsZbOYIAmEzMaze4GScKh3Gyg-hEbJFAJwoKSEHUn9m33Y3k=w800-h453-no)

The service advisor from the Mercedes dealership recommended an alignment shop in Glendale (closer to here than Phoenix) which works on vintage and custom cars, because he had them do his 1965 Chevy Nova. They only charge $40 for an alignment and they said they were currently working on a 1979 W116 300SD. So, that was encouraging. Unfortunately, the alignment feels worse than before I went in. Before I went in, the steering wheel was perfectly centered when going down the road, it didn't pull at all, and it would return to center on its own. Now the steering wheel is turned to the right when going straight, the car feels like it pulls on both sides, and is all over the road. Very disappointing.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/WURbwt4ow4-Bi2NH32uLsdm0XPKdcm6GMjKtxprj9DoNXUAi6_gGNUHwtQ5x20iQNnssjRQ16q4xXszq9gRIgE1YRx3diyy-DiOqlJs2XoKd2a9yzGJMZRLd9fAaSTYHahsg5kOweuH5WXKyvuxGAWG2DpeoApfW7r-nP47SBEsrZQ07mVBpKfDDn6XvtsdKUi1N6hY7o3lxVaqYYAsUyktfTe2IYh61_lq_JII7OilhE5BFz3zR0amOhmn33lhrtKbkVGFl2CIvauKWzuKyXAe478yk-InaO-BC-d_dJpzavSBviUDKRbEbTbl07MXEAuMNOeUAHGXaZObRO5kkPGI2NKgmblb-5ap5mLFobBxRJxznDbXdykSnxErtsI5r_dDo-glwRvWyC0AtOk4AkJgZS2zZJwTEciCit1w2lyEWBiajH1CkbbO4zvMjNBuIyyPQML52H46dHwAbpLTNY0Ysq9_o-WwucKqYaPmPo17CwtcWudie18tdJXzwk8T6S2dme5C3o08W8LXPONfQIb6HV0MaOsVBN-cykc5ZtfeR5t5v4D9AIfz2kpdVF8uODzFuypxqjNuQHto0hMCVT2rcj1gsNBHCLyVFrvQL-CTIpKJjvhpDAqYMglgDTGpTfcbeXlJdZr5WY1N8aikqNcfd6JJq0So=w800-h453-no)

I don't think they know how to align old Mercedes, and I'm pretty sure they didn't use a spreader bar or the centering pin. I told the guy I had the centering pin for the steering box, and he ignored me. I need someplace that will do it by the book, but right now I can't afford to put any more money into this car. At least putting the original front springs back in seemed to fix the ride stance. Assuming they got the camber and caster correct, I might adjust the tie rods so the car at least goes straight down the road and the steering wheel isn't crooked.

Here is how the car is currently riding. It seems like the front end is slightly lower than the rear now, but probably not much more than when the new front springs were in. I wouldn't mind going up a pad size in the rear from a 2-nub to a 3-nub to lift it up a little (5mm).
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2IXNN-Kn9WyuNWTh8OQpVJJq2kTPwOcfWUfx9lzHRFnPfoh7md7RA0psAim1Z5GwZg7oRmFUeXUd0YYMkaPHMxA3LbmeHUVUprJV-kHpNfcKh8sNlzqBd6Nxbl0YScKgiOITGf-XGNO4omKfxWnX0bmbxQ-CWMZJ9qRK2D8diYunX-l63eqNom2UCwYo7A0c1y7rpEERWaai4vFfvrIUr2NtrTzajt7aQGnffv3gZ3JijKNiWI4ufQoLdzbyS82w1q4BSpxQoCZi4VcWjpMPG210lu7IaFyq2cNx822TZQ4hil2KDk39ezp_OfsEuKifL3npNWk2H8A1wbb7Y5OSxDMV7tMmMFRJFXPi7_iLcWrSo9W9Q5rq3XG5NgcgSTa2ogOnYey7Eah2xFZ6P055vt2q7s9XeWU6JGgIn5b3ohTJdDE1F2TlfY0JyxoMPQhTrids-Fpt77vIC3DxPFC8QeJOHfplpfiHuUAlYcgBDVapIGJDaAG4J0dAR9YvYpyT7KTSivr9RRMvRHO3Nx6tM-h6ITwg23hYMmWxbScEjfjTakWrfC23DZK5nQhqyPVu8pfh04o7HRsQzwxrvFyO5rWLoaYY0bRbvTQlM6KMNp_se0uscOx5TtQanaqciX78nIGYIMER9p1662Z0HrjpKZ0YG2doMM4=w800-h453-no)
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: daantjie on 24 July 2019, 03:46 PM
Man I feel for you on this one :'(  Most alignment shops will not have a clue on how to properly align one of these old gals, unfortunately it's just a fact.  If you are struggling there in the US of A, imagine how up the creek us Canadians are :o
Title: Re: My Custom 1980 300SD Project Part 2
Post by: Squiggle Dog on 24 July 2019, 07:57 PM
UPDATE! I couldn't live with the awful alignment, so with the assumption that the caster and camber are reasonably correct, I adjusted the tie rods until the steering wheel was perfectly straight when going down the road and there was no pulling. It appears the wheels were toed out about 1/16"--not good considering the force of driving tends to push the wheels outward anyway. I toed them in to about 1/32"-1/16", measuring in a few places after rolling the car back and forth and wiggling the steering wheel to make sure I got average measurements.

The car drives SO MUCH better now! The alignment feels perfect now that I've tweaked it. I don't even have to have my hands on the steering wheel to go in a straight line--whereas I kept having the turn the steering wheel right and left to keep it straight on the road after I got it back from the shop. It's apparent they didn't center the steering box in relation to the front wheels, so the steering box was constantly trying to center itself because it was askew even though the wheels were pointing straight ahead. It's doubtful they used a spreader bar or even realized why it's important. It looked like the only special tools they used to do the alignment were similar to the SPC Fastrax tool that ykobayashi mentioned. They didn't seem to have any alignment machines or computers.

I think the next time I need an alignment I'm just going to buy the tools to do it myself. Like they say, if you want something done right, do it yourself. This is yet another strike against having shops work on my car.

As a side note, I noticed that my roommate's 350SDL has about 1/4" of toe-in. Then again, it has worn parts, so it might just be slop.