My 6.9's

[rumb]

Finally got the radiator support painted. Learned the hard way to not mix brands/types of paint.  Had paint wrinkles and kept getting trash in the paint.

Just tried dyeing velours fabric as a test to see if I can reasonably match Anthracite.
Will post photos in a few days of the results. Not at all ideal, but its really my only last chance before having to go in another direction.

[rumb]

Dye test shows that dyeing velours is possible. First attempt was too dark, essentially came out black. I tested dyeing some old blue velours. I will next order some light gray ribbed velours from w126 and try mixing 2 diff gray colors (graphite and gray frost) to see if I can get a lot closer. At least this is very prommising.

[rumb]

Restoring/rebuilding the Alternator.  I mostly have it apart, need to visit motor repair shop to help remove armature.  Managed to find new voltage regulator (fleabay) and new suppression capacitor (MB).

A quick bead blast has shell looking good. The inner section is painted red on 6.9's.  I recognize this color as Glyptol.  MB used it on inside of M130 engine blocks and it is also the correct paint for 6.3 airbag holders!

The wire harness is getting brittle, have found the rubber boots that cover the end connectors. I think I will just find the correct gauge red wire and make a new one with new sheathing, connectors and boots.

[raueda1]

Restoring/rebuilding the Alternator.  I mostly have it apart, need to visit motor repair shop to help remove armature.  Managed to find new voltage regulator (fleabay) and new suppression capacitor (MB).

A quick bead blast has shell looking good. The inner section is painted red on 6.9's.  I recognize this color as Glyptol.  MB used it on inside of M130 engine blocks and it is also the correct paint for 6.3 airbag holders!

The wire harness is getting brittle, have found the rubber boots that cover the end connectors. I think I will just find the correct gauge red wire and make a new one with new sheathing, connectors and boots.

https://forum.w116.org/index.php?action=dlattach;attach=13590;image may save you some time.  I put in a plug by the firewall to make it easier make the harness in the first place or for the next time I have to pull the engine. 

[rumb]

Thanks Dave, I am just doing the small 2 wire alternator harness. Already did the big one. The NLA boot I found in lithuania and will have to wait  month to receive them....

[raueda1]

OK.  As we all know, life is better with a supple engine wiring loom!  Anyway, the inside of 6.9 alternators is RED?  Now another task has been added to my list.    Any special tricks or is it obvious enough when the alternator comes out?  Cheers,

[rumb]

The only hard part was getting the armature out of the bearing. Not safe to use a press, but a 3 or 2 jaw puller will push it out nicely.  I had one bad bearing to replace.

Yes, the center section and armature are Glyptol red.  Most rebuilds are black.

[rumb]

With the help of classic center I found these vent gummi that go in the headlight bucket.

[rumb]

Light gray ribbed velour is now also NLA. ARGGGGG.   

Brazil may now be only choice and try to dye to anthracite.

[rumb]

Finally ordered 12 meters of brasil velours.  Question for chemists out there. Dye instructions say not to use aluminum vessels. Is that because it will stain the aluminum or is there some potential negative chemical reaction that will disrupt the dye process?

Attached photo of radiator support area with labels placed.

[andrewk]

Finally ordered 12 meters of brasil velours.  Question for chemists out there. Dye instructions say not to use aluminum vessels. Is that because it will stain the aluminum or is there some potential negative chemical reaction that will disrupt the dye process?

Attached photo of radiator support area with labels placed.

Dyes are often activated by acidic or basic conditions (or heat).

Aluminium is quite a reactive metal; it passivates quickly by means of oxidation (from air) to form a layer of Al₂O₃ - now, if you have a dye which forms an acidic solution, you start to solvate some Aluminium and neutralise some of your acid dye. You might get patchy spots, or the dye won't be stable. Without knowing which dye you are using it is hard to give a clear and reasoned response.

It certainly isn't my area of expertise (I know more about Azo dyes) but generally you want to do dye process in borosilicate glass or some other kind of vessel which will not react with the dye (HDPE, PP, stainless steel).

[rumb]

Rebuilt left side wire harness in engine bay.  New sheathing and connectors and components.

[rumb]

Fanfare Horns

Finally figured out the wiring for Fanfare horns.  PO had installed switch and used 5 black wires that ran all over the place.  I think they somehow used relays which I did not do.

I started out on this 7 years ago???

https://forum.w116.org/interiors-and-exteriors/fanfare-horns-12125/msg122801/#msg122801

Dave, did you get yours installed?
https://forum.w116.org/mechanicals/horn-circiut-wiring-layout/msg147306/#msg147306

Perhaps my journey will help you.

The attached pictures should explain everything I did.

Last step is to make a new mounting bar.  Squiggledog sold me a crushed example.  I bought some pipe today, need to figure out how to bend it.

[rumb]

After I get horns done, then going to install wiring harness for heated seats. Should be interesting.....

[tcj]

Attached photo of radiator support area with labels placed.

the left small label 1088350088 does not suit the 6.9. Its the sticker for early non-6.9-w116.
the big label 1238350188 to the right is for late 6.9.
As your car is an early 6.9 you need
1158350088 + 1238350088
See Kleinanzeigen.de

regards,
Thomas