Topic: My 6.9's

[daantjie]

Looking sharp there Robert

[rumb]

Fuel distributor arrived Saturday.  Just got done installing it.  Instructions say to connect fuel in and out together and run pump for an hour. Anyone know where and which relay it is located?  There are 3 inside my fuse box. Should I just jumper then until I find the one for the pump?  What terminals do I jump?  86 and 86?

[Max-NL]

If I remember correctly you could just unplug the blue connector at the airflow sensor, which allows to let the pump run with the ignition on but engine off.

[rumb]

Thanks, I read that also, but did not know what key position to use.

[rumb]

Finally got the spare engine out today. Biggest issue was getting the bellhousing over the tubular cross member. I think the thing to help is have your leveler set so that you can get the front of engine a lot higher than the back.  It's a tight squeeze.

[Peter]

I do like a nice white Mercedes either the 116 or the 108, what are you doing with the engine Rumb.

[rumb]

shoved in corner for parts or ? (it's a euro engine)

I needed the ring gear for my car.  pulled a perfect one out of the spare engine.

Will get serious to finish stripping the white one down over the next 2 weeks and then the hulk to the scrap yard.

[rumb]

Motion being made, if not actual progress..

Kind of fun to see two engine together.  Stripping ever item that is to be yellow zinc plated of both engines and body. Several hundred items, taking pictures of each part removed and hardware that goes along with it. Ring gear and starter gear especially was trashed. Power washed engine yesterday, need to scrub remaining gunk off. Then swap good transmission on.

Parts arrive soon to do timing chain, valve stem seals and adjust lifter clearances.

[rumb]

Here's pictures of my timing chain stretch.  Looks like about 4 degrees at the crank plus right bank offset.

[rumb]

And here is the valve lash.  I ordered stainless shim stock .031 inch which is .78mm.   will punch circles out of it to shim with.  The gauge red measuring line is @1.5mm and you can see that I am at the bottom or just below the red line.

While there will do the seals, my mechanic lent me the MB valve stem seal installer tools!

[daantjie]

Hey Robert.

Not sure if you know this but I was told you have to line up the timing marker to 0 on the balancer, THEN read the "error" on the cam marks.  Looks like on your pics your marker is not @ 0?  Unless I'm mistaken and perhaps there are different methods to read the stretch.

[rumb]

Hey Robert.

Not sure if you know this but I was told you have to line up the timing marker to 0 on the balancer, THEN read the "error" on the cam marks.  Looks like on your pics your marker is not @ 0?  Unless I'm mistaken and perhaps there are different methods to read the stretch.

Hmmm, I always thought it was the other way, as I did it. elsewise you would you be able to read how far off as there is no scale on the cams?

Either way it is obvious stretched and performance will be less in this condition.

Must do research?

[daantjie]

Indeed perhaps your method is more accurate. From what I've read with pointer at 0 your marks on the cams must be slightly before or right on the pedestal mark. You might need offset keys to finesse that last little bit. Member "s class" has posted on this.

[s class]

Correct way is to line up the right hand cam marks, then take the reading off the damper.  I'm going to guess that if you do this, you will see severe stretch, ie 15 degrees or so. 

[rumb]

Correct way is to line up the right hand cam marks, then take the reading off the damper.  I'm going to guess that if you do this, you will see severe stretch, ie 15 degrees or so.

That makes sense as the right bank always has more stretch than the left.