Author Topic: LosCreepers' 1974 W116 280SE > Bleeding problems...  (Read 15077 times)

zook

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Re: LosCreepers' 1974 W116 280SE > Bleeding problems...
« Reply #45 on: 21 December 2012, 03:29 AM »
Boys boys boys.............

You TALK the talk but dont really walk the walk here with all this manual cog swapping chatter.

Its not a manual unless its got a dog box with helical cut gears..... This synchromesh BS is for PUSSIES!

If you have to use the clutch for more than 1st gear takeoff then its not a real manual,

If you cant hear the gears whine as they spin?

Its not a real manual.

If you dont have to blip the throttle to match engine, box and road speed on a downshift?

Its not a real manual gearbox.......

Face it boys, you are playing every time you drive your car and there is nothing wrong with that but dont start poking fun at the Auto boys until you have driven a crash box as a daily for a while.

:-)
hahaha thats me told i suppose..

came across this, it might be a possible solution
I can sympathise.  Just this afternoon, myself and my helper (who is a qualified mechanic with 15 years experience) took over an hour to successfully bleed the clutch on a 300D W123.  We eventually got it right by sucking on the slave's bleed nipple with the mityvac.
sucking, not blowing! (keep your filthy thoughts to yourselves)
doesnt seem like it'd make a lot of difference either way, but hey, i'll try anything

oversize

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Re: LosCreepers' 1974 W116 280SE > Bleeding problems...
« Reply #46 on: 21 December 2012, 03:47 AM »
I have a air operated brake bleeder but it's only good to get the fluid through the system.  It still needs to be manually bled to ensure there's no air
1979 6.9 #5541 (Red Bull)
1978 6.9 #4248 (Skye)
1979 6.9 #3686 (Moby Dick)
1978 6.9 #1776 (Dora)
1977 450SEL #7010 white -P
1975 450SEL #8414 gold -P

TJ 450

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Re: LosCreepers' 1974 W116 280SE > Bleeding problems...
« Reply #47 on: 21 December 2012, 03:55 AM »
I used the standard one-man brake bleeding kit on the slave cylinder and never had any problems, it took about 1/2 an hour. I replaced the slave cylinder and all the fluid drained out in the process.

Of course, the little bottle needs to be situated so that it is higher than the bleed nipple.

There is no return spring, so you do have to manually lift the pedal. Do it slowly so there's less chance of things going wrong.

Tim
1976 450SEL 6.9 1432
1969 300SEL 6.3 1394
2003 ML500

Tony66_au

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Re: LosCreepers' 1974 W116 280SE > Bleeding problems...
« Reply #48 on: 21 December 2012, 06:36 PM »
Boys boys boys.............

You TALK the talk but dont really walk the walk here with all this manual cog swapping chatter.

Its not a manual unless its got a dog box with helical cut gears..... This synchromesh BS is for PUSSIES!

If you have to use the clutch for more than 1st gear takeoff then its not a real manual,

If you cant hear the gears whine as they spin?

Its not a real manual.

If you dont have to blip the throttle to match engine, box and road speed on a downshift?

Its not a real manual gearbox.......

Face it boys, you are playing every time you drive your car and there is nothing wrong with that but dont start poking fun at the Auto boys until you have driven a crash box as a daily for a while.

:-)
hahaha thats me told i suppose..

came across this, it might be a possible solution
I can sympathise.  Just this afternoon, myself and my helper (who is a qualified mechanic with 15 years experience) took over an hour to successfully bleed the clutch on a 300D W123.  We eventually got it right by sucking on the slave's bleed nipple with the mityvac.
sucking, not blowing! (keep your filthy thoughts to yourselves)
doesnt seem like it'd make a lot of difference either way, but hey, i'll try anything

I wasn't having a serious Go at you BTW, I was just remembering a car that we did a box conversion on for a client at great expense ($6700.00 gearset) who suddenly found he couldn't drive the car lol

He too had been taking the piss because we all drove auto's and was very sheepish after I took him for a blat in his new toy without a crunch or grind and then spent a week teaching him how to change gears without leaving chunks floating in the box (Wouldnt happen anyway but it still sounds awful).

s class

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Re: LosCreepers' 1974 W116 280SE > Bleeding problems...
« Reply #49 on: 22 December 2012, 10:00 AM »
came across this, it might be a possible solution
I can sympathise.  Just this afternoon, myself and my helper (who is a qualified mechanic with 15 years experience) took over an hour to successfully bleed the clutch on a 300D W123.  We eventually got it right by sucking on the slave's bleed nipple with the mityvac.
sucking, not blowing! (keep your filthy thoughts to yourselves)
doesnt seem like it'd make a lot of difference either way, but hey, i'll try anything

That was after we replaced  both slave and master.   

'76 6.9 Euro, '78 6.9 AMG, '80 280SE, '74 350SE, '82 500SEL euro full hydro, '83 500SEL euro full hydro , '81 500SL

oversize

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Re: LosCreepers' 1974 W116 280SE > Bleeding problems...
« Reply #50 on: 22 December 2012, 03:20 PM »
I'm starting to wonder if you need a longer pin because the new pressure plate has more clearance than the original one....  So slave movement does nothing for most of it's travel until it takes up the slack
1979 6.9 #5541 (Red Bull)
1978 6.9 #4248 (Skye)
1979 6.9 #3686 (Moby Dick)
1978 6.9 #1776 (Dora)
1977 450SEL #7010 white -P
1975 450SEL #8414 gold -P