I'm new to diesels, new to Mercedes, new to cars...
I wish to purchase a diesel because of their reliability and their ability to convert to VO
I wish to purchase a Mercedes or VW, old, preferably, because of my limited background in automobiles, i believe few parts would allow for easier DIY repair.
CL link: REFERENCE ONLY http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/3247003695.html im not looking to advertise, although inadvertently am.
Owner claims "About 20,000 mi. on new MB crate motor. OM617"
I believe it is a 116 not a 126, based on rear headlights?
I've read that the 116 models rust much more rapidly and severely than the 126's. So a thorough rust inspection, of course.
Nothing is said about the transmission, 4-speed auto, i assume
Any specifics i should address while inspecting the car?
Am I in over my head? Should i look for something newer? I do not have a shop/garage, so some extreme repairs are out of my league.
Great resource site BTW.
The car in the ad is definitely a W116.
New crate motor, eh? I don't know nothin' 'bout none of that. But the car looks pretty good from the photos. They do rust up, that's true. Check for rust everywhere, but especially at the base of the front and rear windscreens at the corners, the sunroof drains, in the fuel filler flap area, the sills, the underbody... everywhere, really. Rust is usually caused by either water failing to drain away through a blocked drain (such as the drain in behind the fuel filler flap) or by water getting in passed a seal that isn't sealing very well anymore (which is usually why they rust around the window seals) so checking for dampness inside the car, in the carpets of the front footwells in particular is important. Also check for dampness in the trunk. Water can get in and it tends to wet the two sides of the trunk, in the little shallows off to each side. It's possible that there could be rust hidden under carpets. If it's damp, there's probably some rust hidden under there somewhere.
I've seen a lot of them advertised as having "no rust". They've all turned out to have rust. Mine was advertised as having "no rust". It's rusty.
Make sure the AC works and the heater too. Run the heater a lot and make sure it's not leaking coolant. (hot water from the engine radiator is cycled through the heating system in the dashboard, passed the heater fan which then blows the radiating hot air into the cabin and it's common for this part of the heater to break and to leak on some models now that they're old, which leads to a slow, constant loss of radiator coolant) Fixing this can be expensive and requires a lot of work. From my experience this is a bit of an achilles heel on these cars. It's possible to bypass the heater system as a sort of cheap, quick fix but that might not be an option in winter time. The leaking coolant in the dash gives off a distinct smell and the leaking water also ends up in the front footwells so watch out for wetness there while running the heater and smell out for that smell of fusty wet grossness.
That particular one in the ad seems a bit expensive. I personally don't think that a new engine necessarily adds to the value. If the car has only done 137,000 miles, that's well within the life expectancy of the original engine so I'd wonder why the engine has been replaced at all... $5000 seems too high, unless the car is in perfect shape.
These cars are pretty good to work on and relatively easy for DIY'ers. But parts are pretty expensive compared to regular cars. Even though these cars are old, they're not as simple and basic as you might imagine. They're pretty fancy cars.
In regards more generalized things to look out for when viewing one, check the oil level and the oil quality and watch out for sludge or milky goop under the oil cap. Check all fluid levels and the quality of the fluids. Run the car and listen for any bad noises, turn the steering wheel from lock-to-lock and listen for weird clunks and feel for vibrations. Drive the car and test the brakes and make sure it drives straight and stops straight. If you don't feel confident with all of that sort of thing you could usually arrange to have a mechanic take a look at it for you, most sellers wouldn't be too put off by that.
Another good thing to check is to see if the owner has any receipts for the maintenance and repairs. These can establish whether the mileage is true and they can give a good sense of the cars history and how well it has been maintained. For me, the more receipts I can see the better. I'm not put off if the car has had a lot of work done to it - that's usually good - it means you wont have to have those jobs done yourself on your dime.
I'm sure there's a lot more.
Good luck with whatever you end up with. I couldn't advise on any kind of Volkswagen because I've never owned one. Obviously everyone here will probably biased towards Mercedeses. 8)
thank you for the quick reply! 5k is steep, i was leaning toward 4-4.5k, it would have to be quite immaculate. i did not think to wonder why the engine was replaced, excellent question. the owner claims to have all work done, and previous owners work done, at a single Mercedes shop in town (http://www.germanmotors.net/), he asked me not to contact them until he can, strange? i asked for a vin, got a 12 character string...i dont understand... was going to see the car yesterday, seller cancelled. Preparing to inspect soon. I must ensure there is no blow-by, but with a new engine, there had best be none. Inside oil fill cap should be CLEAN too. new engine, meaning new turbo? Belts should all be immaculate as well? transmission, alternator, battery, AC, and radiator, and frame components (axels, doors, wheels), are not included in engine replacement i assume...
Pull the mats on all the footwells and check for dampness. Open the trunk and look under the spare - water collects there, too.
When I bought mine I had to replace the flex plates on the drive shaft, and the motor mounts. Anything rubber - mounts, hoses, tubes, window/door seals - is suspect. For fuel leaks, look for faint stains under the car when you inspect it. I had to replace a couple short fuel lines as well. Not too expensive, but it adds up.
If the engine was crate, what about the tranny? Might wanna put that through it's paces on the road.
I say $3,500 if everything checks out. Be prepared to spend about $1,000 on tools, equipment, and surprises, right off the bat.
I, too, doubt there is "no rust."
So i get to see it tomorrow, he said again, no rust, i guess i'll see. The reason engine was replace is the couple who owned it before him were driving through kansas and the radiator blew, they kept driving, seized the engine. 2 owners total. He said its been in colorado throughout its lifetime, not driven in the winter. So maybe no rust is possible? So my two main checks will be any rubber, all rubber. And rust, particularly behind/around wheels, rear, trunk, underneath doors.
That is exactly what happened to my spare (the green one). The oil is fed to it's own radiator, right next to the coolant radiator. The oil return pipe ruptured on the highway, and the engine seized up.
Remember:
* moisture under floor mats
* transmission
Good luck! If things check out, you're gonna love this car like no other.
If in doubt you could look for signs of new resprays or even run a magnet around the hard points like jacking points. If something looks suspect and you think the seller is dishonest walk away! these cars can be seriously expensive to put right eg rotten seals will need replacing ive spent over a grand on door, tail light seals, and boot seals alone, front chrome strips for the grill alone are 30 bucks each now in australia. buy the very best you can afford and dont rush it. A real good one wont be too expensive to keep in good shape, and the lack of devaluation further cuts the running cost. Would you risk gumming up injectors and exhaust valves running on vege? cold starts would definately be an issue.
i have a plan IF i choose to run bio/veg: 2 tanks(Bio and reg), start diesel, switch, end diesel. Either way, I will install a block heater, I live in Colorado, its COLD in the winters, and i would prefer my fuel to be as thin as possible, greater combustion. I look at the car tomorrow, i will try and provide pictures, sound, and possibly video. Thank you to everyone for the great advice, i hope i dont seem like too much of a newbie when i look at the car.
(http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/3638/20120909092140.jpg)Clean Engine
(http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/9431/20120909092158.jpg)Corrosion under the battery
(http://img545.imageshack.us/img545/5174/20120909092219.jpg)Dirty line in middle of pic, oil line to oil radiator IE: "The oil is fed to it's own radiator, right next to the coolant radiator. The oil return pipe ruptured on the highway, and the engine seized up."
(http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/4779/20120909092334.jpg)Rust fix? Trunk
(http://img560.imageshack.us/img560/8161/20120909092416.jpg)Bit of rust
(http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/3742/20120909092534.jpg)Seals felt spoungy, slightly cracked
(http://img580.imageshack.us/img580/835/20120909092600.jpg)more seal
Will post youtube of engine sound, what do you all think?
Small spot of rust not pictured on front driver door, will try for more pics, tranny good, shifted great, R/D/R/D
i dont think i will make the purchase, i would offer 3k, but i dont want to insult the seller. the possibility of the oil radiator line blowing seems high, the bottom line(return line?) was the oily one, so the leak could even be in the oil radiator. and the amount of rust patches(confirmed from co-worker) pic #4 scare me, the car sounded wonderful, breaks were squishy, needed bleeding, transmission worked great, downshifted fast when full throttled. reversed easy. i was not able to see the car cold, so i dont know how it starts cold. rust will continue to corrode underneath the patches, right? rust must be completely removed(cut out), then filled in, correct? otherwise it will continue to spread.
THANK YOU!! to all who gave advice, very helpful!
I will continue to look at diesels, probably not 116's though, too rusty, scary.
Hope your continued search goes well.
Rust is not a living thing. Absent water and oxygen, it does not continue to spread. The real problem with not eradicating all of it is the existing oxide tends to attract and trap water, starting the whole process again. A poorly done repair can rust as badly or worse than an existing rusty panel if it leaves gaps and joints that trap moisture.
Just about any car you find of the W116 era will have some rust. If you do find a rust-free example, then it will cost dearly. You will have to choose what that is worth to you. A W126 or late 123 would give you a better chance at getting an affordable Diesel. I do think the W126 is a better car overall than the W116, but it has less charm. I suppose you could call it appliance-like. Pic #4 didn't look very scary to me. Then again, all of the W116s I've had so far were 2-3 inches deep in water there when I got them. :)
If you have time, you would be well served by exercising patience. Eventually, something really neat will pop up, and there you will be with cash in hand. Keep looking, do so with a bit of the fanatic's flair and something will present itself. Checking with local mechanics is also a good idea as the independent shops will have customers looking to sell occasionally.
im taking this car to a mechanic tomorrow, for inspection. i will update pictures, with more relevant/useful(hopefully, im still learning what to look at/for) i will also be able to view service records for the car, will post about that, hopefully get video of it starting/running/accelerating
i looked at a 1995 E300D W124, 120k, almost same issues as the 1980, maybe more. i need to pick the best of the two, may i post about my seeing of the W124? or would that be off topic? i was able to personally inspect/drive, and view service records of the W124.
What kind of regular service should i look for? Service records should have oil/5k, breaks and coolant?/10k, tranny and coolant?/25k, or something close, right?
I don't reckon that bit of fixed rust in the trunk is too off-putting. It's probably not rusting under there at the moment. And if the seals in the trunk have been replaced (which they probably have been, at the same time the rust was fixed) then the rust shouldn't come back. Plus, rust tends to move slowly. It could be years and years before that spot might become a problem, if at all.
Rust in the chassis, underneath the car or below the doors in the sills, or at parts of the body where two structural pieces come together is the main kind of rust to 'worry' about. The rest can often be simply cosmetic. It looks like this car has been patched fixed the easy way. But that's not the end of the world. Rust can be treated with chemicals that stop it from growing and you could be almost certain that this was done to this car before the rust was patched up. And as ZCarFan pointed out, the rust underneath there is almost certainly dead and probably wouldn't develop into a problem in the future. The car seems to be free of rust in the more serious areas, which is really good.
My impression from the photos is that the car looks clean and tidy and genuinely has no serious rust. This is rare. The car presents well and looks like it's been well maintained by all of its owners. The photos wont load up for me this time so I can't take a second look but I saw them briefly yesterday. I still think the price is high and I don't think your offer of $3000 would be too far off the mark. And I wouldn't think the seller would be offended by such an offer. But if you go and see the car again and have it looked at by a mechanic, the seller might have his hopes up pretty high and will be expecting you to buy it.
When I got my first W116, I too thought that the brakes felt spongy and soft. I took it to a Mercedes-Benz specialist and he was positive that this is just how they feel normally and my brakes 'felt the same as any other W116' that he'd driven.
The W124 is a good car but it's quite different to the 116. It's much more modern and even fancier. I don't think anyone would mind if you kept posting here. A number of people here own W124's.
In regards the service records, you might not see receipts for oil/coolant/transmission fluid changes because the owner might have done those jobs on their own, in their garage. Receipts for more major work tend to be more common. If there's no receipts for oil changes it can be nearly impossible to know for sure if they've been done or not. Just ask the owner and gauge their response. But really, these engines are just about bulletproof, so highly regimented service intervals aren't entirely necessary. 5k miles, 10k miles... If the fluids that are in it right now are clean and look new, it's probably fine.
I would guess that with the W124 being much newer, and the W116 being a classic, they might appeal to slightly different people. I have a feeling that a 116 owner is a little more likely to do his own maintenance than a 124 owner. But I'm basing this assumption on virtually nothing but gut feeling and I'm probably talking out of my ass.
If there's a ton of receipts but they're all very recent and done all at once, it's a sign that the car has been sitting unused for a long time and the work has only been done to make selling the car a little easier. (it's not good for these cars to sit unused for years). It can also be a sign that the driver neglected the car due to laziness or cheapskatery, and drove it around with a lot of little faults, and then decided to have a lot of little things fixed at once to make it easier to sell. Seeing a good long history of service is good. Seeing a lot of expensive services can be good too, if it suggests that the owner was a stickler for detail and spared no expense in upkeep. When I looked at the receipts that came with my own car I noticed that the previous owner had paid a mechanic $90 an hour to replace the rubbers in the windshield wipers for him. There's a guy who spared no expense. :P
Generally though, just the fact that there ARE receipts is usually good enough for me. I didn't even look though mine thoroughly until after I'd bought and paid for the car! Initially they were skimmed through to see how far back they went and to note the mileage at each one, because auto shops tend to write down the mileage on the docket and this is a good way to see if the odometer reading is accurate. But I didn't go through them thoroughly until after.
whoops, double post
I LOVE THIS FORUM! so helpful, i've been trying around, since this is a 116 specific, people can be so rude. thank you, very helpful!
1995 W124 E300D 120k - wants 8k(high asking price)
Engine sound: video 2012 09 10 19 09 32 - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L7QK9ZojO8I)
sounds good, right? not clanky/rough, didn't accelerate though. 20 seconds into video i show rust on the engine, is that something to worry about?
noticed both sets of axle boots were old, possibly cracked, could not get a good look
Service records should have oil/5k, breaks and coolant?/10k, tranny and coolant?/25k, or something close, right?
I was able to see service records, oil and oil filter done regularly since '01 at 45k, but before then, and its noted in the records, no previous records are found.
last service done in 08/2011, oil at 120k, some things noted on the back of the LAST record:
rear shocks leaked out - long time coming, noted early,
"converter" heat shield rusted through - long time coming, noted early,
front drive disk loose - persistant issue, fixed at least 2 times throughout life
injection pump oil(fuel?) leak - persistant issue
rear tierod and dragline sm. - dragline?
last coolant change in 07 - should have looked at coolant levels/color
monovalve assembly leak - monobelt replace several times, valve once?(look again)
pls pump leak, dirty fluid - no idea what that means
air filter dirty - i didn't even look
some other issues i noticed w/ the records:
bad smelling tranny oil once, transmission was serviced, but it doesn't seem like every 25k
persistent glow plug replacement, although diff plugs, regular? or wiring issues
recent major repairs:
08/10 monobelt replaced
9/08 transmission cooler hose and fuel line replaced
8/07 front break rotors/pads/sensors replaced, wheel bearing repacked and sealed, rear break pads replaced, break fluid, transmssion serviced, injector pump o-rings, "dev valves", monobelt
everything after, more than 5 years old, as long as major fluids were replaced
any advice is greatly appreciated, thank you!
after looking at all this several times, seems like a pit, and i should stay away from this one...am i right? or am i being pessimistic?
If there are no service records before 2001, that's a bit worrying. Those records should be in the owners manual, in the glove compartment (or perhaps some other weird place that Mercedes elected to keep the owners manual in this model). I'd have guessed that most people with a brand new Mercedes would get it serviced at the dealership. And the dealer would stamp the service book at every service for the first several years and tens of thousands of miles as a record of proper servicing in that time is important for maintaining the warranty. Having a missing service logbook would be annoying to me and I'd wonder how it was ever lost in the first place. What kind of savage would just
lose their owners manual?
The fact that is has service documents from that point on is pretty good though. 11 years of receipts has got to be some kind of record.
However, they do seem to reveal some persistently recurring problems and some long gaps between services. 6 year old radiator coolant would be pretty gross by now and it's probably doing little to prevent corrosion. However, it looks OK in the video. Are you sure it's not been changed since '07? If the last service was performed in 2011, I would have figured the coolant would have been changed at that time.
I don't personally have any experience with this model so I can't say when the fluids should be changed exactly. Plus, I don't cover a lot of miles in my own cars so I always just change the oil once a year and the coolant every two years, rather than basing it on mileage.
Some of these other issues:
Quoterear shocks leaked out - long time coming, noted early,
"converter" heat shield rusted through - long time coming, noted early,
front drive disk loose - persistant issue, fixed at least 2 times throughout life
injection pump oil(fuel?) leak - persistant issue
rear tierod and dragline sm.
last coolant change in 07
monovalve assembly leak
pls pump leak, dirty fluid
air filter dirty
Have these issues been rectified, or were they just observed at the last service?
Either way, the price is ludicrous. Tell him he's dreamin'. I'd hazard a guess that these cars are more common over there than the W116 so it might be worth considering the option of looking at a few others. This one seems a bit iffy but I'm in no place to make that call, like I said I have no experience with this model at all.
The 1995 E300D W124 seems like a money pit to me
I took the 1980 300D W116 to a mechanic today, before, and after, i told the owner i had not made a decision to buy the car, he seemed disappointed.
They were very thorough at the shop, even showed me things that i can apply to my next, possible, inspection.
the UGLY:
- windshield cracked/leaking - $165
- a/c leaks, vaccumm or compressor has small hole, charged in aug. then in 08 and 07, could need replacing - $600+?
- master break cylinder seeping- $400
- rear flex/drive disk cracked(med. wear) - $250
- rear shocks leaked out - $350
- return oil cooler line leaking-being fixed by owner - $400
the BAD:
- break fluid caps cracked - $8
- fuel filter need replacing - $82
- coolant expansion tank bloated/stress marks/crack - $110
- front headlight bulb housing loose - $?
- "sm-med misc trans and engine leaks-normal"... i understand its 40 years old, but normal?
the MEDIOCRE:
- dash cover cracked - $600+
- clock and radio inoperable, i knew about clock, didn't test radio, cosmetic - new radio, analog clock?
- Left front window and sunroof operate slow - $too much$$
- rust spots in driver side door seam, underneath driver side front wheel well, small chip - $10 i can seal,
my PERSONAL notes:
axle boots looked fine, rubber seals on the car needed replacing
owner STILL wants 5k for it,the oil cooler line fix is 400.
what is a good way to test the transmission? besides flooring it and ensuring downshifting?
can i even find a w116 windshield? - DUH, yes, less than $200, should i worry about the seals?
decent car, good shape for a 1980, by my assessment. 5k, ouch, OUCH
Beastie, you are very helpful! Thank you!
oh, what this mercedes shop had posted for maintenance:
" 1998 models and above" but im sure it can be applied generaly
SERVICE - MB Recommends - SHOP recommends
oil - 10k - 5k or .5year
particulate cabin filter - 13k - 15k
charcoal cabin filter - 60k - as needed
engine air filter - 60k - 15k
fuel filter - 60k - 45k
chassis lube - n/a - 30k
spark plugs/glow - 100k/4yr - 85k/4yr.
transfer case - n/a - fluid check *4matic
transmission - n/a - fluid
power steering - n/a - fuild/filter
There are MANY used Mercedes out there in the market. If you really want a good car I will repeat the advice to look long and hard and get the right one. I'm a bottom-feeder generally (the downside of having been a mechanic is knowing you can fix them) and a bit on the impatient side. I can tell you without a doubt these two habits have cost me some really nice cars. So..... if the two you are looking at right now are not exactly what you want, keep looking. I passed on a 6.9 recently simply because the driveway is full of half-running projects.
If you have to get around and need it really soon, get something to hold you over that you can sell later and break even on.
To provide an example. I had one '80 300SD that I was driving. I bought another from a friend as a "parts car" and then got that one going. Right after this, a local seller had 1 clean W126 560SEL for sale with about 150,000 miles on the clock. The paint was lacking, but the car ran fine and worked well. Price was $2500. Had to pass on that, no space. A short while later, there was a Euro-spec W116 450SE for sale. This one was $1500 and intact. Had to pass again. All due to grabbing the extra car just "because it was there".
Quote from: xakuvo on 12 September 2012, 01:55 PM
the UGLY:
- windshield cracked/leaking - $165
- a/c leaks, vaccumm or compressor has small hole, charged in aug. then in 08 and 07, could need replacing - $600+?
- master break cylinder seeping- $400
- rear flex/drive disk cracked(med. wear) - $250
- rear shocks leaked out - $350
- return oil cooler line leaking-being fixed by owner - $400
Most of those things would need to be fixed immediately. Explain to the seller that you would be using this car as your main transport, and you're not just wanting it as a weekend cruiser that you can work on and repair at your leisure - it's going to be your day-to-day car and you would want to buy one that is ready to go, or near to being ready to go. It still seems like it has a lot of good qualities and might still be worth considering, but if it needs a lot of immediate work just to make it safe and viable, then the price has got to come down. There's always at least some room to move on the price during negotiations. If the seller is totally unwilling to lower his price, tell him he's dreamin' and just walk away from the whole deal. You'll find other cars to look at eventually, and now that you've seen a few you'll be better able to get a 'vibe' from them of what they're like and whether they're better or worse than the ones you've seen so far. Look at enough of them an eventually you'll develop a decent instinct and you might be able to spot the right one the moment you see it. The thing is though, I would normally expect to see rust, especially where you live which is a place that has proper winters. The fact that this car is virtually rust free makes it seem pretty tempting, despite the work it needs done.
Most of the other things you listed are pretty minor and are consumable parts that are designed to be cheaply and easily replaced. The fuel filter, for example.
It's the job of the mechanic you took it to to find EVERY fault that he possibly can, lest ye return after buying the car to yell at him for not telling you about some newly discovered minor issue that he didn't tell you about. But just because he found a fault, it doesn't mean it's serious or that he's necessarily suggesting that you'd need to get it fixed right away.
Almost all W116 dashboards crack. It's very unfortunate as they're expensive to fix and removing and replacing the dash is not a pleasant job. Most 116 owner seem to simply accept their cracked dash as a fact of ownership. A lot of people just buy one of those carpet dash mats that people used in the 1980's. I have one. (my dash is badly cracked from the harsh Australian sun)
I don't mind offering advice at all. I've had a lot of down time at work this week and this has given me something to do. ;D But just keep in mind that this is all just one man's opinion and decisions are up to you. ;)
xakuvo,
Looks to me like the car has too many issues that need attention right away. I don't mind advising people to pay more for a car as long as you get your money's worth, top car top $$$... I do not think this is the case here.
The a/c work alone may cost you 2k, if your expectations are high you will want a new dash, that's another easy 2k with parts and labor, all door seals, etc,etc, etc... the list is endless...
Nice 300SD's do come up for sale on e-bay, Hemmings,etc.... personally I am not a fan of Craig's list.
Take a look at this 1980 300SD on e-bay, if everything holds true it could be a good car.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/300SD-LOW-MILES-TURBODIESEL-GARAGED-/221121889212?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item337be443bc
Tks,
Joe
if you really want the best- (its cheaper that way), consider geting on a mercedes benz club. through word of mouth someone will have a deisel benz that they would consider selling to someone who respects benzes.
xakuvo,
These guys seem to have the best Diesels in the country, albeit at a price... they currently show an 83 euro 300D in Thistle Green with a green velour interior that is absolutely stunning!
http://www.mercedesmotoring.com/
Tks,
Joe
i have accounts in benzworld.org and http://mbworld.org, i got trolled on benzworld(moderator helped me though), and mbworld is absent of users.
this is the most helpful forum on the internet! for me, in my personal situation.
but i learned LOTS from the mechanical inspection, and specific things to look at/for. they were very helpful. very thorough.
its the "royal" blue color i believe.
it IS a beautiful car. i would LOVE to purchase the car, 5k is high in my opinion, GREAT car, im sure it would last me a decade as long as i care for it.
hard to me to justify paying 5k for a 32 year old car, that needs $200-500 in initial repairs done (windshield, flex disk), then i need to ensure all the seals SEAL, i will take the car through a car-wash... but really those are the big ones, ive seen guide for flex disk repair, seems easy enough, i just need a shop w/ tools, but the owner may be willing to personally assist me with repairs...as long as i dont piss him off, lol.
when replacing my fuel filters, i should be careful of getting debris into the exposed line, this is what the owner told me, he suggested let the mechanic do it, correct? i need to find a guide, should be super easy though.
if i go look at the car, final time, i have a few things to ensure, owner shows me how to check all fluids. in specific, he hid the coolant tank innards from my vision, he told the mechanic he had "bars" in there for "lubrication". does this sound right? bars? this is something i should ask the owner as well.
if i do buy the car, will i have to purchase specific windshield seals before i get it replaced, so that i may have the intaller use my seals. or, should i ask for a specific rubber seal be used, if they dont have it, next place?
how much am i looking to spend for a good set of rubber seals for all doors/trunk/sunroof/hood?
xakuvo,
An original set of seals from the Mercedes Classic Center will run about $1500.00, I would not recommend using aftermarket parts due to quality and fitting issues, especially for the windshield.
Tks,
Joe
UPDATE:
owner wishes to : replace front break pads, flex disk, windshield, and oil radiator return hose and remove doors, apply grease to moving window parts
he wants to do these things with me, basically teaching me, and im all for it
i am going to wait to pay, until all repairs are done, and i know they were completed successfully
he is standing hard at 5k, i will get pictures, very nice car, but 5k...nope