Kent picked up a wrecked SD and is going to do a series on getting is back together. Should be great.
Here's the intro:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jfn4CXbghtI
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Very nice colour combo.
That's exactly what happened to my 300SD, but it crumpled the radiator support and shifted it and the fender on the opposite side over a few millimeters. So at some point I'll have to replace the core support and have the inner fenders pulled back. I wonder what that will cost...
Kent speaks of not seeing a single door ding down the left side of the car. Mine is atrocious. It seems there is not a square inch without a door ding on it. I really hope they aren't hard to remove as I probably have hundreds of them.
He just released part 1!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IT-EnC1LVds
Always interesting to see how someone else would do it but all the reasons he has for passing on it. Most of us don't really have that luxury or want the car so much that we are blind to most faults. I wonder if I would have passed on mine had I known that the head gasket had gone probably not as I was really keen on having the 116.
The damage to that car is nothing. It would be a no-brainer for me. It's still exponentially nicer than my own car. Heck, mine had a bad body, rust, crash damage, missing parts, a completely destroyed interior, bad brakes, bad wheels and tires, bad transmission, and almost nothing worked on it. I'm lucky I even got it home.
It's interesting that many times totally pristine rust-free examples go to wrecking yards because of one small problem (like small crash damage or a bad engine) or get parted out--and then the parts get put on rusty beaters, which is the best some of us can afford.
It seems like every time I've bought used parts for cars I've owned, the cars the parts were coming off of were in much better condition than my own. I would think, "Something is wrong with this picture".
Like JasonP says, "When you are poor, you can't afford to make good financial decisions." It would be great to find a nice example that looks showroom new and has no problems with it, but a lot of us can't afford it. So we buy beaters and make do. I once bought a W116 that had already been parted out and stripped of many parts (including the wire harness). But I pieced it back together and used it as a daily driver. I was still into it less than $1,000 by the time it was all done.
Not sure why he would discount the car based on suspension damage. It's not like it's a 6.9 needing new struts :o
No immediately apparent structural or engine damage and mostly just a a smashed wing and a bit of hood drama, with a mint interior.
If it were me, I wouldn't even think twice about fixing it. I bet he's made the same call already, just plays for time.
And good luck to him, gotta keep the business going.
But if he decides to part it out after all, I'll be first in line for that interior :D
Kenth's videos always makes me feel I am back in my schooltime, second grade. Mixed emotions, there.
Part 2!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-HfwYyKupyU
I like verifying the mileage by the wear on the steering wheel. I have often seen people look at the brake and gas pedals.
Part 3: Inspecting it for Rust.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ftWtwIkSDaM
Quote from: rumb on 29 January 2016, 06:15 PM
I like verifying the mileage by the wear on the steering wheel.
IMO, nothing beats verifiable documentation - service invoices, road worthiness certs etc.
My 350 was almost 2x the mileage of the 450 (112k v 60k miles when I bought them), both very well documented and there was no visible difference between their steering wheels (both original).
Agree 100% good service records trump these visual cues any day.
Part 4: Body Damage Close Inspection
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96UCnQ0cJH8
Not looking good for this baby methinks...
Nope.. I can see the look in his face..
Right, if it's not fixable with miracle paint and fibre glass, it's to expensive?
Quote from: ptashek on 31 January 2016, 03:58 PM
Right, if it's not fixable with miracle paint and fibre glass, it's to expensive?
That made me chuckle!
Part 5: Engine Health Exam
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TcBwvzE1mXs
I think we should part out "mercedessource."
Coming along..
Part 6: Quick Body Fix and Engine Service. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QoKg7Lsxzvs&feature=youtu.be
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Knowing how many good used fenders are out there, why in the hell is he trying to straighten this? There are some jobs that require a professional. He should follow that advice rather than make the car worse.
I loved your reply, Ptashek. No truer words have been spoken. As I said, some jobs need to be left to a professional.
So there is hope for it. I just noticed that it has the misfortune of having an EGR valve despite being a W116 (like mine). At least I was able to find non-EGR manifolds, just have to install them.
Quote from: UTn_boy on 11 February 2016, 03:58 AM
Knowing how many good used fenders are out there, why in the hell is he trying to straighten this? There are some jobs that require a professional. He should follow that advice rather than make the car worse.
I loved your reply, Ptashek. No truer words have been spoken. As I said, some jobs need to be left to a professional.
I was just wondering the exact same thing. There is no sense in punching holes in and beating and filling such a fender when it is so easy to find a good replacement. It's never going to look right again.
Kent does say in the video that he only beat it out so he could mount the turn signal light, then he can go test drive the car. And that he is waiting/looking for a replacement fender.
He explains why you should go back to the Febi-Bilstein power steering fluid and not ATF.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TLR_kdnsJ_0
Well, it is a good thing I've been running synthetic power steering fluid for a while, then!
I use that Febi fluid too. That video has so many cutouts that it's hard to watch.
So how come the book tells us to use ATF in the power steering? I've never had any problems running ATF, and certainly none of the problems he mentions.
Quote from: UTn_boy on 16 February 2016, 04:39 PM
So how come the book tells us to use ATF in the power steering? I've never had any problems running ATF, and certainly none of the problems he mentions.
He mentioned that the ATF fluid that was being produced many years ago is different now than the ATF today and doesn't do well in power steering systems. His words, not mine.
Yeah...I knew that, but the solution to that problem is to use type A ATF. It meets the standards of ATF from when these cars were new. All Pilot gas stations carry it. I guess he doesn't know that type A still exists maybe?? Either way, It's a good bit of information to keep in mind. :)
Let's also not forget Kent is a Dutchman (like me) He is always very passionate explaining that some products are better than others, especially when he happens to be selling that same "better" product.
Quote from: UTn_boy on 16 February 2016, 09:37 PM
Yeah...I knew that, but the solution to that problem is to use type A ATF. It meets the standards of ATF from when these cars were new. All Pilot gas stations carry it. I guess he doesn't know that type A still exists maybe?? Either way, It's a good bit of information to keep in mind. :)
Sure it may still exist, but that doesn't mean that it's the best option now. It was perhaps the best option when the cars were new. Is it not unreasonable to think that a power steering fluid were designed later to specifically address the wear issues seen in steering boxes, and will help even older components that predate the fluid last longer. I can agree wholeheartedly with steering play being a huge problem in older Mercedes as it's been an issue in every one I've owned to varying degrees. Of course the coupler is often the biggest problem, and as you've explained to me, there are a lot of other components in the front suspension that can develop play, so it's not always just simple steering box wear.
Well, until I see any evidence of damage from what I've been using for nearly 20 years I'm going to stick to what works best. I learned a long time ago not to take anything for it's face value.
I guess I've been lucky over the years. I've never owned a Mercedes that had excessive steering gear box wear. I've owned several W126 and W123 cars, which were notorious about having sloppy steering boxes. I think a lot of it depends on the terrain of the cars domicile, as well as how often the oil is changed. Here in the U.S., steering gear box oil changes might as well be greek to most shops. They kind of look at you funny when you ask to have your steering fluid and filter changed, or even a rear axle oil change. Go figure.
Steering box rebuilds are something I do here regularly for 116, 107, 123. W126 seem less prone to the problem due to the self-compensation plunger.
My experience suggests that premaure wear is largely attributable to two issues :
a) insufficiently frequent fluid and filter changes
b) failure to periodically adjust the unit to compensate for wear. Allowing the unit to run for an extended period with excessive play is a sure ay to destroy the sector shaft and working piston.
On W116's in particular, I quite often have to replace the sector shaft and working piston with new (if customer can afford), or better condition used items.
Quote from: UTn_boy on 18 February 2016, 05:53 AM
Well, until I see any evidence of damage from what I've been using for nearly 20 years I'm going to stick to what works best. I learned a long time ago not to take anything for it's face value.
I guess I've been lucky over the years. I've never owned a Mercedes that had excessive steering gear box wear. I've owned several W126 and W123 cars, which were notorious about having sloppy steering boxes. I think a lot of it depends on the terrain of the cars domicile, as well as how often the oil is changed. Here in the U.S., steering gear box oil changes might as well be greek to most shops. They kind of look at you funny when you ask to have your steering fluid and filter changed, or even a rear axle oil change. Go figure.
Well, that's certainly a good point - I think that the fluid has never been changed in most of the cars I've owned.
Part 7: Purging the Fuel System Before a Road Test
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VfIOHf5UWws
That engine sounds fantastic. Think it'll pull nice and strong.
Part 8: Brake Caliper Inspection
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SHuEvWAkpZY
As much as I like Kent and his vids there sure is a lot of repetition. I guess he has his pet peeves and likes to drive the point home (or make and sell a kit ;D)
Part 9: Time to say goodbye. >:(
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PX1-Gawa5_Y
Geez... I want that interior so bad! :D
Yup that green on green is deadly cool 8)
That engine bay looks like an "After", rather than a "before" .
Add to that, the interior, and I would have grabbed the car.
But then again, I only have crap to choose from, in my market.
Still, seems a bloody shame, ripping that engine out of this chassis.
My gosh, that's nicer than any car I'll ever own and it's getting parted out. It must be nice to have so many nice cars for cheap at one's disposal.
I've asked them yesterday about buying the interior, but the answer was they're not interested in parting the car out. It'll be an all or nothing deal. But with the engine out, it won't make sense at all unless it'll go for rock bottom money.
Does this car have the green interior you want?
http://fortcollins.craigslist.org/cto/5478315713.html
This seller is one of those guys that refuses to respond to phone or email - very frustrating. Car has been listed for months here, cant seem to get a simple answer of where the car is located so I can look at it,
Quote from: ptashek on 23 March 2016, 10:49 AM
Geez... I want that interior so bad! :D
Quote from: rumb on 24 March 2016, 07:48 AM
Does this car have the green interior you want?
Colour wise, yes, but it looks very tired from the few pics that are there.
If it's in the US, it would have to be mint, or near enough, to warrant shipping.
http://www.leboncoin.fr/voitures/940356575.htm?ca=7_s (http://www.leboncoin.fr/voitures/940356575.htm?ca=7_s)
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