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I want to drive my 116...

Started by 1980sdga, 16 May 2011, 12:41 AM

Squiggle Dog

I can commiserate. I've always bought total junkers because I'm picky about color, options, etc., and it just so happens that they were difficult to find, and when I did find them they were in bad condition and belonged to dishonest sellers.

It's definitely a good idea to buy the best car you can afford, but be careful because it seems that most of the time these cars aren't as well-maintained as advertised, and are really only lower-value cars that have been dolled up. It seems that every time I've bought a car I've had to replace or rebuild every mechanical part during every weekend for 2 solid years! 30 years is a long time for rubber parts to last, and they rarely get replaced.

My 300SD has been agonizing. I've had to rebuild the brakes, replace the steering box, replace the transmisson, replace most of the interior parts and exterior trim, and tinker on pretty much everything else. And the interior still looks worn-out and the paint is hideous. The good news is that the engine seems to be healthy (for 400,000 miles) and it's near the point where everything mechanical will be new or rebuilt.

The first year or two is really challenging, to say the least. It's great when you get to the point where anything mechanical that could break has already been replaced or repaired, so in a sense it's like a new car, and probably even more reliable once you're at that point. These are simpler cars than the new ones, plus they are well-built with quality parts, so once everything's been serviced, I feel they are at least as reliable, if not more, than a new car.

I've had a 1968 200D, a 1979 300SD, and a 1980 300SD as daily drivers for about 2 years each, sole transportation--even making multi-state trips. None of them ever left me stranded except for when I replaced the starter in the 1979 300SD because it was mid-winter and cranking too slowly. I had 4 parts store starters die on me so I ended up installing a used one. Don't buy cheap parts store rebuilds.

$50,000 for a practically new 300SD. A fortune compared to what most 300SDs sell for, but then do you think that Mercedes could still build them today EXACTLY as they did in the 1970s and to the same quality standards, for $50,000 each? I tend to think not. I truly wonder what it would cost to build one of these in today's world. And how much would it cost to restore one to the same condition? Only, this one saves you time because it is already done and correct.
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1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Heated Seats, 350,000+

1980sdga

Well, I think I got a decent car to start with. 97,000 miles and rolling  ;D  It has some rust but I bought it for the interior and the mileage. The AC was working when I test drove it so that was another plus. It crapped out while I was test driving but at least I knew the compressor system was good. The locks worked for a day as well :D

It's taken longer, and has been a bigger PITA, than I thought but it hasn't cost me much and I'm close to having the AC up to speed!

The door locks work now and the fuel door and trunk lock as well.  I believe the vacuum part of the cruise is OK so I I think the amp is the problem. I've had the amp out so at least I know how to do that part  :P

I wasn't planning on digging into the AC yet but it started effecting the shut off so I had to jump on it. The locks were sorted as a by product  ;D

I have 2 new tie-rod assemblies waiting to be installed. That was supposed to be the next project but the car had different ideas.

My next PLANNED steps are the tie-rod ends and a new drier and pressure switch and AC servicing.

Casey

Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 18 May 2011, 07:15 PM
$50,000 for a practically new 300SD. A fortune compared to what most 300SDs sell for, but then do you think that Mercedes could still build them today EXACTLY as they did in the 1970s and to the same quality standards, for $50,000 each? I tend to think not. I truly wonder what it would cost to build one of these in today's world. And how much would it cost to restore one to the same condition? Only, this one saves you time because it is already done and correct.

Calculating inflation in, the new cost of my 1980 300SD was a bit over $68,000. :)

1980sdga

Just took a little drive and I have a brake pad scrubbing  ::)  Sounds like it anyway.  I looked at them when I was installing shocks and they looked OK.  Not brand new but serviceable.

Maybe a pad came apart?  I have tons of receipts and nothing about brakes EVER  :P

1980sdga

Just put new pads all around. The fronts were about the same thickness as the new ones (Probably very few miles on them) but BOTH rear inside pads were down to metal  ::)  I caught it early and parked it so there was no damage to either rotor.

The pistons looked good, no leaks just about 1/8" near the center of each rotor was scuffed up a little.  The rear pads had the MB star on the backs of them so they may actually have been original to the car.

I'm eventually going to change out the rubber brake lines...

Casey

Quote from: 1980sdga on 22 May 2011, 02:48 AM
I'm eventually going to change out the rubber brake lines...

Waah, another thing I probably need to do as well...  In W116 heaven, rubber doesn't deteriorate!