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I miss my car... :(

Started by Neko, 07 June 2011, 12:21 AM

jbrasile

I suppose the timing chain is a possibility but if it was running fine before I don't think that's the case.

Double-check the ignition wire connections to the dist cap and that the cap is seated correctly on the distributor. I know your father is a mechanic but we all make mistakes and sometimes these MB caps are a little tricky to lock in place and you may think everything is fine when the cap is actually crooked on the dist.

Tks,

Joe


Neko

#16
Will do. Thanks for the help guys, really appreciated. :)

EDIT: Also, I'm not entirely sure whether this could be linked to the problem, but it seems the car was moving forward a little while revving in Park? I was wondering whether this is normal. Since I'm starting to get into cars, I figure I might as well ask questions.

Here's a video of the last time it was running, approx. 12 hours before I tried starting it again. You can clearly see it moving a little during revs: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pc-AnJDh4m8

TJ 450

I doubt that the moving forward slightly in park is anyting to be worried about. What is more concerning to me is the clicking/clacking sound when the engine is cranked.

So, you need to work out if anything is wrong with the timing chain or engine internals before you try to actually start it again IMO.

I think the rocker cover needs to come off for an inspection forthwith. 8)

Was the engine ever running after the oil change?

Tim
1976 450SEL 6.9 1432
1969 300SEL 6.3 1394
2003 ML500

calvin streeting

dont 280's have a very low fail rate on chains.

But I agree with TJ, rip the rocker cover of and check cams, chain, rockers, valves etc...

calvin

TJ 450

Yes, 280s have the ratcheting chain tensioner and presumably shorter chain, but I have read of failures.

The M102/3 engines are also pretty robust, but the chains do fail occasionly if they are not attended to. I'm not sure how exactly they fail though... probably just excessive stretch beyond the last ratchet notch.

Tim
1976 450SEL 6.9 1432
1969 300SEL 6.3 1394
2003 ML500

Neko

#20
Alright, I just took the cover off and had a look. Nothing appears to be out of place, but my expertise essentially ends here. I've taken a few photos, though, so maybe someone here could spot something out of the ordinary. Give me a few minutes to upload them.

Okay, they're uploaded. Just scroll to the bottom, and you should see them: http://gallery.w116.org/v/show_room/TheMercedes/

Sorry if this isn't enough, guys. It's the best I can do right now though. Thanks for all the help. :)

Big_Richard

#21
could the sound be caused by a cracked exhaust manifold Y peice, dont know if one is fitted on this car but thats also extremely common on m110's.


its a K-jet car so working it out shouldnt be too hard.

Is there fuel pressure ? sure way to check is see if theres any resistance in moving down the air metering flap.

s class

You need to turn the motor over by hand for a few complete revolutions.  You can do this quite easily with a couple of 22/24 spanners on the crown nuts of the power steering pump pulley and the alternator pulley.  Do this with the valve cover off, and check that each valve is moving up and down correctly.  I also suggest you remove the distributor cap when doing this, so you can see if the distributor is actually turning. 


[color=blue]'76 6.9 Euro[/color], [color=red]'78 6.9 AMG[/color], '80 280SE, [color=brown]'74 350SE[/color], [color=black]'82 500SEL euro full hydro, '83 500SEL euro full hydro [/color], '81 500SL

TJ 450

It certainly looks fine under there visually... S Class's check is the go.

A cracked Y-Piece is a possibility indeed MT (for the sound, not the no start problem).

Seeing as the problem started after the oil change, it's time to check and confirm the basics if you haven't already.

I had a problem with my 190E whereby the engine wouldn't start (after the rebuild), I went over everything 50 million times and all it would do is backfire through the intake etc. MT found after some hours of troubleshooting, that the firing order was wrong.

So, it pays to definitively confirm that the basics are functioning first. MT's test above will confirm whether or not you have fuel pressure. The ignition function can be checked in a less dangerous fashion with a timing light (available at places like Repco ect, if you don't have one already).

Tim
1976 450SEL 6.9 1432
1969 300SEL 6.3 1394
2003 ML500

Neko

Alright, just worked on it for a while with a friend, and it is DEFINITELY the timing chain. It's what seems to be making the 'click click' sound, as it jumps up and down when turning over. Cheers for all the help, guys. It's great to have a forum like this. :)

KenM

Bummer if the chain has jumped a tooth Ben, still, here's your big intro to the world of the Benz engine so go for it. Plenty of knowledge on here to help you out with whatever needs to be done.

If it's turning over that has to be a good sign. And there ends my useful advice, others here can tell you all you need to know.

Good luck,

Neko


s class

WHat exactly happens - do both camshafts turn (in opposite directions)?

Do you see the chain jumping over one or both cams?

On the exhaust side, can you see the tensioner lever, and is it in one piece (they can and do fracture on the M110's)

Is the chain taut, or slopping around from a tensioner not doing its job?


[color=blue]'76 6.9 Euro[/color], [color=red]'78 6.9 AMG[/color], '80 280SE, [color=brown]'74 350SE[/color], [color=black]'82 500SEL euro full hydro, '83 500SEL euro full hydro [/color], '81 500SL

Neko

Scrap that, the whole engine needs replacing. I had my neighbor over (he's been working with cars for 45 years), and he had a more in-depth look. Essentially, something has snapped deep down in the engine, connected to the timing chain. He can't turn the engine by hand without it locking up, and his professional opinion is that it'd just be easier and cheaper to just put a new engine in.

I have an old, rusty 1975 280S in the shed, which has a working engine, so we're going to use that. The only real difference is that it only has 160BHP as opposed to the 185BHP my current engine puts out. I hope it won't make too much of a difference. Power and speed was never my thing anyway, as long as it'll get me to where I need to go. My neighbor has offered to do the transplant for us, for half the cost it would normally be. This car is worth fixing, and I'm not prepared to get rid of it at all. It'll just take a LONG time to get going again.

I'll be disconnecting all hoses, wires, etc. from the engine tomorrow/the next day, ready for my neighbor to start work on it. Here's to success.

TJ 450

Hmmm, I would'nt be too hasty in deciding that the engine is scrap.

Unless you want to rewire the engine bay and use the carby, you may be better off at least determining exactly what it is that broke in your existing engine, as the damage may not be terminal.

Then, if the engine can't be repaired without spending $$$$, then I would personally just look for another K-Jet engine without ancillaries and do the swap.

Good luck.

Tim
1976 450SEL 6.9 1432
1969 300SEL 6.3 1394
2003 ML500