Topic: 280" Concourse; Diary of a layman

[floyd111]

Work is still underway..

[floyd111]

just a note on trunk color

000-986-67-33     Until 20.03.1982 tiefdunkelgrau matt 7164 rocker panels, trunk
000 986 86 33            from 20.03.1982 galinitgrau matt 7129 
and
inside of bumpers    RUSTOLEUM Painters Touch Ultra Cover 2x Almond Gloss

the bottom of car (driveline tunnel, etc) were gray, and the shultz should be tan colored - but note exactly where schultz (3M 08874) goes and doesnt go.


001-989-37-51-09    grease for window regulators

Might you remember how much of this stuff is needed per car? I need to start ordering soon.. Apparently, the car has been sprayed by now.

Don't shoot me, but I gotta revisit this..-again.
Ptashek confirmed it's the right 3M Schutz number, and I got that number.

About the color.. is gray considered tan? Coz it sure looks gray to me. In Goldie's pics  it seems as if the schutz is nearly the same color as the gold.

About the quantity.. I got 9 small cans, more than was suggested here, but the workshop tells me I should get way more coz they need to do multiple layers to get near the thick, wavy structure of the original.
Workshop tells me a single layer will not offer enough protection in the long run.

About the SOP..
I understand the original car has primer, chassis paint and then Schutz.
The workshop tells me there may be better adhesion of the Schutz directly to the primer, eliminating the need for the chassis paint underneath.

Your opinions and facts are most welcome, more so even than usual!

[rumb]

I gave the 3M product because it is tan color. - At least mine is.  The MB one is gray.  Goldie has wax coating over the shutz I believe.

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Rocker-Schutz-Coating/?N=5002385+3293241997&rt=rud  says beige/tan.

I think the MB gray lays down better so you can use it for the rocker panels that get painted anyway.

Correct spray is schutz over the primer. On the bottom of car the tunnel is not shutz, just primer(could be some sort of gray paint since actual primer is not a good finish material)  as well as some other areas above the rear axle. The entire bottom of the car is not painted at all. I'm not clear on the back part of the spare tire well - it's possible that it got some black paint.

The wheel wells front and back are body color paint over the shutz.

9 cans is easily 1/2 of what you need.

The front fenders from factory were installed before shutz and paint. It may be easier to paint them off, then install and spray more shutz along the top joint to seal all of that in and then retouch with paint. The bolts holding it on also were painted with the fender on car.

The factory painted car with doors on. The bottom of the door often had poor coverage.  The door check strap got painted body color.

[ptashek]

I'm reasonably certain I mentioned Goldie was covered with Sikaflex/Sikagard, not 3M, and that one is tan(ish):


The orange/honey hue is the wax coating on top:

[ptashek]

About the quantity.. I got 9 small cans, more than was suggested here, but the workshop tells me I should get way more coz they need to do multiple layers to get near the thick, wavy structure of the original.
Workshop tells me a single layer will not offer enough protection in the long run.

I don't have the exact quantity in my records, but I think it was 8+ litres total for the underbody, and wheel wells.
There's none on the sills or the lower front valance (chin), but that was my choice not how they came from factory.

About the SOP..
I understand the original car has primer, chassis paint and then Schutz.
The workshop tells me there may be better adhesion of the Schutz directly to the primer, eliminating the need for the chassis paint underneath.

From factory it was bare steel, primer, schutz, then body colour in certain areas like wheel wells.

[ptashek]

I'm testing a new product over the weekend on my W124 - Novol Gravit 600: https://professional.novol.pl/en/product/135/gravit-600-antigravel

[floyd111]

 

[floyd111]

 

[floyd111]

Thanks for that even more elaborate input, gentleman. I clearly got the right stuff.
Have sent all data to the workshop. That'll be a relief for them as well.
So, having bought 9 KG of stone guard, that is sufficient? In regards to original, wavy, bumpy look, and durability?

[ptashek]

The final texture with Schutz type coatings is a function of spraying pressure. Lower pressure means more texture.

If 9kg is enough depends on how thick they lay it. And more is not always better in this case.

[Taha]

Hi Floyd,

May I ask why you don't sandblast the underneath? How about using grinder and wire brush? Removing those thick layers with scraper looks very tough. Is there any point to do like this? Thanks.

[ptashek]

Good luck sandblasting the factory Schutz off
And the problem with a steel wire wheel is twofold - it melts the Schutz, and then throws hot melted bits of it around the place. Total carnage.

The guys that did my car went the heat gun and scraper route too, and it was a bloody chore (quite literally, too).

[rumb]

I used a steam cleaner that has a 1" wire brush at the end and added simple green to the water.  A horrible chore of countless hours that results in covering everything below with drips and chunks of the tar based "undercoating" that had been applied over the factory shutz. This left behind virgin shutz that I then scrubbed with solvent.  Anything loose I removed and then resprayed everything with new shutz. I did not see the need to remove to bare metal. The black tar based undercoat actually did a good job protecting the bottom of the car.

[floyd111]

Good luck sandblasting the factory Schutz off
And the problem with a steel wire wheel is twofold - it melts the Schutz, and then throws hot melted bits of it around the place. Total carnage.

The guys that did my car went the heat gun and scraper route too, and it was a bloody chore (quite literally, too).

<that s what I asked, and what the workshop said as well.