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Mechanicals / tappet noise
« Last post by Pete49 on Today at 08:37 PM »
Guys on my W116 450 SEL I Have tappet rattle on No 5 inlet valve I found it when I, in desperation, removed the rocker from that valve and when I started the motor rattle was gone and when replaced it came back. The gap is set at 4 thou and no other rattle in the rest of the valves and all gaps set as per manual. Any help would save a lot of hair  :D
Mechanicals / Re: 6.9 control pressure rod position
« Last post by raueda1 on Today at 05:19 PM »
Yes, I think where that roller rests is good. If it were right up in that corner you’d have a fair bit of extra play in the pedal before anything happens.

I've recently been fiddling with this stuff.  My roller was originally "floating" a bit like Daniel's.  After a lot of adjusting, readjusting and adjusting more it ended up the same as Rumb's.  Now there's no play in the pedal at all (and I had a lot!).  To do this I disconnected the pedal connector with the spring and fiddled with the linkage on the engine till there was no slack anyplace and throttle was opening and closing fully.  I then reconnected the pedal and messed with the bolt until there was no play AND WOT was really WOT.  It took several iterations.

Now I'm trying to find the sweet spot for the shift control pressure rod. Mine was originally quite far back.  Under light load the car shifted very early, or so it seemed to me.  The car would shift at about 1800 rpm, realy just loafing along.  Under WOT the 2nd -> 3rd shift was also premature (~25 mph too soon).  Pulling it forward, about like Rumb's, raised the shift points across the board.  Under light load it now shifts about 2500 rpm.  At WOT it shifts later but still not corresponding to the speedo dots under WOT.

Now the question is, what's optimum?  Setting so shifts at WOT correspond to the speedo dot and letting the rest fall where it may??  Or does it depend on how/where you drive the car?  Around town it feels like something between very-far-back (where it was) and farther forward (where it is now) would be best.  However, that would also reduce WOT shift speed which is already too low to begin with.  Farther forward should better calibrate the WOT shift speed but at the expense of reving higher when city driving.  Does anybody know what the 2 -> 3rd shift speed ought to be under light throttle?

Wouldn't it be great to have a brand new car to drive as a benchmark?  I'm going to pay closer attention to shift points and write them down so it isn't as subjective.  Thanks,
Test Drive / Re: ebay UK
« Last post by marku on Today at 10:17 AM »
It is a very peculiar animal. Can't say I like the body kit either and I never did like the spoilers on any car and particularly on a 116.
Interiors & Exteriors / Re: Door cills
« Last post by marku on Today at 10:14 AM »
Thanks all. The metal insert needs replacing on them all but it doesn't get over the look of the cill covers. Thought of painting them but I don't know how long it would last. Got some "chrome" paint that I might try. More satin than polished but it improves with extra coats. They are not complicated so it should be possible to make them in stainless steel or even have them chromed. Might investigate that.
Test Drive / Re: ebay UK
« Last post by Squiggle Dog on Today at 09:08 AM »
Yeah, with the new dash skin, you almost can't see the cracks underneath it anymore.
Mechanicals / Re: exhaust missing part(s) challenge
« Last post by Squiggle Dog on Today at 09:00 AM »
The 300SD didn't have any exhaust hangers there. Those are just there for the gas models. Nothing is missing on yours.
Test Drive / Re: New member with 280S
« Last post by irvine on Today at 04:34 AM »
Love the colour, any plans for it?

Test Drive / Re: New member with 280S
« Last post by floyd111 on Today at 03:43 AM »
That looks pretty mint! Has it been restored? Whereabouts in SA are you?
Test Drive / Re: 450SEL - W116 London UK
« Last post by floyd111 on Today at 03:41 AM »
Even if you can make these springs fit, spacers or not, there's no telling what rate they are. I guess if you aren't too bothered with ride comfort, it's probably a non-topic. You could try and hope to get lucky with the ride. Also, there's only a small chance that the rate is so far off that you risk losing control of the car during braking in corners, in the rain, or during sudden moves on the highway.
I am the wrong one to comment, I guess. As an Ohlins man, we don't condone such modifications without backup data. Lowering springs reduces stroke in the shocks, changes the geometry of the car. Someone who knows and cares about these things should be advising you on these matters, locally. Safety can be an issue, but I would not exclude the importance of getting the best ride possible, with all the money and effort that goes into these cars.
Mechanicals / Re: H&R Springs - 30mm Drop - Problem
« Last post by s class on Today at 03:03 AM »
... the nose of the car sat proud up in front of you.

Like it should be...
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