Recent Posts

1

Interiors & Exteriors / Re: MB-Tex seat issues

« Last post by raueda1 on Today at 11:04 AM »

905 is off-white velours.

Thanks much for solving that mystery.  Oh, what I'd give to have that velour again!  But now I got MB-tex, so I guess I've got a super-taxi, which isn't bad. 

Still, any thoughts on whether the foam can be inserted without taking the seat completely apart?

2

Interiors & Exteriors / Re: MB-Tex seat issues

« Last post by Max-NL on Today at 10:32 AM »

905 is off-white velours.

3

Mechanicals / 6.9 water pump questions

« Last post by raueda1 on Today at 10:18 AM »

I'm planning a long trip in Aug and have mild water pump concerns.  The current pump is the old-style with round pipes.  The questions:

1.  Is the newer style with rectangular pipes bolt-on compatible?
2.  Does the pump give any warning signs before complete failure?  Obvious leaking is obvious, but anything else?  Can a pump leak intermittently?
3.  There's a little hole on top of the pump, like a vent.  What is it and does it need any kind of care?

Thanks in advance for any insights. Cheers,

4

Interiors & Exteriors / Re: MB-Tex seat issues

« Last post by raueda1 on Today at 10:03 AM »

What is the interior trim code on the data card?

I wish I knew.  There must be something wrong with me, cause I've I've never really been able to fully decipher this stuff despite numerous searches. From what I understand:

Options plate:
931H = magnetite blue --> correct
532 = auto antenna w/o radio --> correct
592 = heated rear window --> correct
638 = elimination of warning triangle --> I have one but I might have installed it, can't recall
812 = rear speakers --> correct

Data card:
Ausstatung:  905 =   This is interior, right?  But can't find 905 anyplace
406 = SINGLE SEAT WITH ORTHOPAEDIC FRONT SEAT BACKREST, LEFT AND RIGHT  aka lumbar support?
532 = auto antenna w/o radio --> correct
592 = heated rear window --> correct
638 = no warning triangle
640 = aluminum disk wheels (Bundts?)  --> correct
665 =

Wenig gewuenscht (on data card)
206 =
233 = FOGLAMP WIRING FOR FRANCE, SWITZERLAND, AUSTRALIA, SWEDEN, NORWAY --> no idea about this
309 = LEFT TAIL LAMP WITHOUT REAR FOG LAMP --> no idea what this means
812 = rear speakers

Nowhere do I see a recognizable upholstery code.  The interior is palomino or light beige or whatever they call it.  What am I missing here?   

5

Mechanicals / Re: M116/117 V8 engine - whos changed their valve stem seals?

« Last post by Berggreen on Today at 02:59 AM »

I've done the valve stem seals on my 6.9 but I can't comment on the longevity of only doing seals as I've not dome enough kms, probably only 2 or 3 thousand total.

The seals are a hard, not very flexible material and need to heated in hot water for some minutes to have any hope of getting them  over the valve stems.

Hello,

I know this is an old thread, but I am actually having the valve stem seals changed at the moment in my M116.985 3.5L V8 in my 350SE from 12/1977.

However, my mechanic just reported back to me this morning, that he is worried that the seals in the kit I gave him, do not fit tightly on the valve stems. Actually, they are a lot looser than the old ones, which are however stone-hard and obviously the source of a lot of blue smoke.

He checked the part number on the kits against the EPC and it matches!

Have anyone had the same observation and will the seals expand and fit tightly around the valve stems when they get soaked with oil?

Looking forward to hear back from you.

Thanks,

Christian

Ps.: I bought the valve stem seal kits from SLS in Hamburg Germany: https://www.sls-hh-shop.de/main/en/mercedes-280-500sl-c-r-c107-/01-05-18-engine-m116-m117-mechanic/01-c-05-cylinder-heads-3-5-and-4-5/valve-stem-seals-per-head-3-5-4-5-en-p-10092
But my mechanic will now also order a kit from Mercedes to compare. But as he says, Mercedes is probably using the same sub-supplier as the ones, I got from SLS. But we will see.....but curious if someone here has encountered the same issue.

6

Interiors & Exteriors / Re: MB-Tex seat issues

« Last post by UTn_boy on Today at 02:39 AM »

What is the interior trim code on the data card? 

7

Mechanicals / Re: 6.9 K-jetronic rough and high idle cold start

« Last post by Randys01 on Yesterday at 11:46 PM »

.".but my experience has been that everything on these engines is interrelated.  Unless it's all right, nothing is right and it's very easy to go down the wrong path and make yourself nuts. "

Never a wiser passage has graced this Board................!!

8

Mechanicals / Re: 6.9 K-jetronic rough and high idle cold start

« Last post by revilla on Yesterday at 09:43 PM »

Hi Jan,
To answer your question. Removing/testing/cleaning/lubricating the AAV implies no risk for your trip. It’s all quite simple and it doesn’t involve buying other parts. There’s a small gasket that goes with it that might be deteriorated, if that’s the case you can easily make one (we’re talking air at not very high pressure (vacuum actually) so no big deal) to ensure no uncontrolled air leaking in.
I insist, leave your WUR alone for now, your engine starts as it should and your fuel pressures (all 3) are where they suppose to be by spec. Timing, if not done already, is your next step after AAV to improve your low idle/cold issue. There’s a procedure for that (attached) which involves not only idle check but 1500 and 3000 rpm too. That’s important because it will tell you whether other components (i.e. vacuum advance, membranes, distributor springs/weights, etc) are doing it’s job. However, warning, I won’t open the inside of the distributor before your trip, it can be a pandora box if it’s your first time! It’s worth doing it but without pressure after your trip. The condition of the cap/rotor you can check, but I wouldn’t venture to get to the guts. Your low idle speed when cold issue is not coming from there anyway.
There are two styles of approaching these type of improvements: changing parts left and right and crossing your fingers is one. Some call that changing parts “by principle”.  If you feel like "praying" each time you change a part, there’s your confirmation you’re on style 1.
The second one is to understand the mechanics of a system and its components to be able to diagnose, test, root cause and change the right part(s) with certitude and without crossing the fingers. The advantage of the latter is the gaining in knowledge, the learning experience and the possibility to solve many issues in the future thanks to that know-how base. You’ll save hours of time actually. Both schools are valid, you need to understand which is yours.
Please keep us posted on the results.
Cheers.
Robert

9

Mechanicals / Re: ebay finds

« Last post by raueda1 on Yesterday at 06:05 PM »

Mine has the same cracks as well.  I think I've developed a virtually undetectable repair process.      If it pans out I'll post details.  Stay tuned......

10

Mechanicals / Re: 6.9 K-jetronic rough and high idle cold start

« Last post by raueda1 on Yesterday at 06:03 PM »

You're certainly on the right track.  A couple thoughts:

1.  I'm no expert, but my experience has been that everything on these engines is interrelated.  Unless it's all right, nothing is right and it's very easy to go down the wrong path and make yourself nuts.  You already did the rear end of the fuele system.  So keep going:

2. Get this manual if you possibly can:  "1976 1979 Mercedes Continuous Injection System Diagnosis & Adjustment Manual."  I have it as a set of pdf files, can't remember where I got it.  Unfortunately files are too big to download.  It should be in the technical section but is not.  Anyway, it runs through the whole k-jetroninc testing sequence in an ordered way.  It changed my life, it's that good.  PM me with your email and I'll send it to you in bits.

3.  As suggested above, also check timing.  But I'd take it one step further.  Your distributor is very old and almost certainly filthy inside.  This can cause timing to be unstable, so clean it up.  Do a search, there's a detailed thread on the process.  It isn't very hard and afterwards you'll know it's working right.  The difference it made on my car was NOT small!

If I had done the above all at once instead of messing around bit-by-bit it would have saved me a lot of grief.  Stick with it and Good Luck!