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Mechanicals / Re: 6.9 K-jetronic rough and high idle cold start
« Last post by Jan S on Today at 03:33 PM »
Great advice from all of you - thanks a lot!

Conclusion is I will start tackling this issue after my 5000 km road trip, i.e. it will be my fall job. Fingers crossed.

To Robert: I'm trying to be a style 2 guy, I like the learning experience  :) It worked well with the replacement of the fuel assembly - not enough fuel pressure (i.e. the pump was toast) and the system couldn't hold the pressure (i.e. the accumulator was toast). Fairly easy to diagnose after measuring the 3 pressures. Let's see how it goes this time  :-\

I will keep you posted, be patient.
Mechanicals / Re: Replacing spheres on a 6.9
« Last post by Rolo on Today at 02:32 PM »
One of my early winter projects has been the replacement of the spheres on my 6.9.  The Classic Center hooked me up with new spheres in original Mercedes packaging.

I hadn't replaced the spheres in over 10 years, and it showed.  Car was riding like a harsh pogo stick.  I got the car in the air, and as the fluid flowed out of the old spheres, it was light brown and finely aerated, practically effervescent. Good thing is the fluid was fairly clean.  I got the central accumulator out, and it must have been at least 20 years old.  It was full of fluid.

I'm waiting to replace the lines to the struts until I secure some new crush washers, but I am having a problem getting a supply line hooked into the left front sphere.  It appears that the threads on the hard line may be a bit damaged, and it is not threading on to the new sphere. How may I go about cleaning up those threads, and failing that, can I use appropriately sized steel brake line as a replacement?

I replaced mine after strut rebuilds on Martin's recommendation, but to be honest, the shop and I couldn't tell much of a difference  What has changed is the fluid.  After flushing the entire system and washing out the tank, the oil is now clear.  I only have one piece of OEM rubber on the system and it's the front return hose which I can't figure out how to remove without major work.
Mechanicals / Re: Bubbles in engine oil
« Last post by Rolo on Today at 02:29 PM »
I had a lot of bubbles for 2 oil changes after my rebuild.  But, the oil near the intake was solid with the bubbles only near the top.  I still get a few bubbles after hard running.
Mechanicals / Re: Tips on resealing 6.9 hydraulic pump
« Last post by Rolo on Today at 02:19 PM »
Sorry to reply to my own thread, but thought I'd put closure on this thread.  SPOB sent a beautifully rebuilt pump to replace the --- and I still can't believe this --- porous original pump.  Wasn't just a problem with my housing leaking through a crack that isn't visible.  When the car is all the way down, the old pump would take a couple minutes to get the car to rise.

Now it's a few seconds.  Martin says my old pump wasn't getting to specified pressure.

Interiors & Exteriors / Re: MB-Tex seat issues
« Last post by UTn_boy on Today at 12:52 PM »
What is the interior trim code on the data card?
I wish I knew.  There must be something wrong with me, cause I've I've never really been able to fully decipher this stuff despite numerous searches. From what I understand:

Options plate:
931H = magnetite blue --> correct
532 = auto antenna w/o radio --> correct
592 = heated rear window --> correct
638 = elimination of warning triangle --> I have one but I might have installed it, can't recall
812 = rear speakers --> correct

Data card:
Ausstatung:  905 = ???  This is interior, right?  But can't find 905 anyplace
532 = auto antenna w/o radio --> correct
592 = heated rear window --> correct
638 = no warning triangle
640 = aluminum disk wheels (Bundts?)  --> correct
665 = ???

Wenig gewuenscht (on data card)
206 = ???
309 = LEFT TAIL LAMP WITHOUT REAR FOG LAMP --> no idea what this means
812 = rear speakers

Nowhere do I see a recognizable upholstery code.  The interior is palomino or light beige or whatever they call it.  What am I missing here?   :o

Yes, 406 is lumbar support. 

Yes, 640 is Bundt wheels

Option code 665 is "Mode of packing VE I", which means it was shipped with 10 liters of fuel and and styropor coverings on the bumpers for protection during shipping.

Option code 206 is "Instruction manual and maintenance manual in Italian"

233 simply means that the front fog lamps were wired in such a way that they would only operate under conditions a particular country had set forth.  For example, only when the headlights are on or maybe they could be operated by themselves. 

309 Simply means that some countries did not allow rear fog lamps in the rear tail lights. Rear fog lamps were to be a separate fixture mounted away from the rear tail lamps.  Having a fog lamp integrated in to the tail lamp was viewed as unsafe by most of the world.  People would often think that someone was applying their brakes, but had one brake light burned out (since the right side tail lamp never had a fog lamp). 

Regarding your pleating issue.....the seat needs to be removed, taken apart, and the covering removed.  Afterward, grab a hold of the felt/wool pleat pad and pull is back in it's place.

Parchment velour is still available for W116 cars.  Please consider putting it back right one day.  The inside of a 6.9 is no place for MB-Tex or cheap vat dyed leather. 
Mechanicals / Re: 6.9 water pump questions
« Last post by BCK1963 on Yesterday at 09:07 PM »
The water pump of my 74 Cadillac failed due to a blown bearing. More or less entire coolant loss within short on the Autobahn.
Since heat sensors buzzed immediately there was no damage to the engine.

When driving I always keep an eye on the coolant temperature but I am not sure that I would notice such a failure on my 6.9 in time without an acoustic warning.
Mechanicals / Re: RIP Squiggle Dog. "Mechanicien Extraordinaire."
« Last post by raueda1 on Yesterday at 05:09 PM »
oops, posted in wrong place....  But Scott is certainly deserving of the title.
Mechanicals / RIP Squiggle Dog. "Mechanicien Extraordinaire."
« Last post by floyd111 on Yesterday at 03:27 PM »
I think Scott deserves a last but permenant spot in THIS section,
His contributions over the years are more than impressive.
He will be dearly missed.
Mechanicals / 1972 280se 2.8 Stalling issue
« Last post by Robdevil on Yesterday at 03:15 PM »
Hi folks , I just purchased a 280se and it starts good when cold and then it shuts off after 5-10 minutes and doesn’t restart .
I have spark and fuel pump seems to work fine .
I changed the fuel filter and it was pretty gunked  up .  The problem is still happening .

Is there any other fuel filters ?

I also noticed the points on the inside of the distributor look a little burnt .

Could this be the problem?

Thank you in advance
Mechanicals / Re: 6.9 water pump questions
« Last post by adamb on Yesterday at 02:57 PM »
I didn't know there were two types of water pump.  I have a spare which I've not had to use yet, fortunately.

What can happen?
- It gets damaged due to debris in the channels or rusted due to poor quality or old coolant. The blades fail to move the coolant around effectively. Can result in overheating.
- The seals leak
- The bearing wears out

I've never heard of the last one happening and I think it's the only possible cause of complete failure. Would like to hear if anybody has had to change the water pump for this reason.

AFAIK the pump is a service free item - just check belt tension as a matter of practice.
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