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Test Drive / Re: Drove 1000miles since Feb things completed/Todo list
« Last post by BCDC on Today at 03:11 PM »
Very impressive lot of work. Just a thought about the To do list number 2 - replace the lower and upper fuel filter. I'm not totally sure on the diesel cars but what looks like two fuel filters is actually the fuel filter and above that is the accumulator or it is on all the petrol ones with fuel injection.
I would like to know in detail about tracking and fixing the vacuum leaks?

BCDC
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When I got my 300sd it had a bunch of the typical problems of the w116. I have put about 1000 miles on it and i can comfortably say she runs better than ever.

This is the list of things that have been done.

1 - Heat on 100% bypassed with a brass nipple. - so far I have used an aftermarket valve to turn off the heat.
2 - AC not working low on freon. Filled it with R12 sealant and basically propane. It's running well.
3 - vacuum leaks galore. - partially fixed as the ac now works as do the central locking system as well as the car finally shuts off reliably
4 - oil filter housing lid pulled the studs out and blew all oil out of engine. Noticed and shut it off right away. Replaced studs with bolt and nut combo. Refilled with oil. No harm thank God.
5 - odometer not working. Fixed with lock tight compound. Showed 173k only broken for 2 months by the previous owner. (Po only owned the car 2 months) paperwork showed 172k. So within error range.
6 - rheostat MIA bad blue leds in the whole car. Replaced with warm white LEDs and reddid the wiring.
7 - trans shifter bushings gone, replaced all bushings with either oem or 3d printed abs bushings. 0 slop on the shifter. Replaced shifter bulb.
8 - Oil gauge leaking. Thread sealant fixed issue. Gauge itself if fine.
9 - tach not working. Tried twice to fix issue. Not having it. May go with other solution.
10 - radio missing replaced with aftermarket with Bluetooth and bypassed the fader rheostat. Not ideal but sounds good.
11 - replaced all 4 tires. The old ones disintegrated. They were 23 years old.
12 - replaced steering dampener.
13 - replaced idler arm bushing. - steering feel is much restored. No other play besides gearbox play.
14 - tightened trans oil lines no more leaking ATF, replenished ATF.
15 - rebuilt the air filter bracket and mounted oem air filter.
16 - replaced sealed beam with H4 housings and LED bulbs.
17 - put in missing fog lamps with aftermarket ones that look similar to the oem Bosch units.
18 - refinished parts of the dash with lacquer and glued the cracked parts back together.
19 - replaced passenger side seat belt that was stuck.
20 - found and replaced seat plastic trim on the sides of the seats.
21 - replaced worn out front power window switches.
22 - rebuilt the hacked up ash tray into a storage cubby and replaced the power socket and made it functional.
23 - repaired the glovebox light and fixed the mounting. Replaced all 5 clips in glovebox
24 - replaced lower fuel filter and put chemicals to clean the fuel tank.
25 - repaired the butchered wiring for the rear cabin lights. Now fully functional.
26 - replaced broken drain line for fuel filler neck reduced wetness in the trunk by a bunch. Still more to come.
27 - tracked down and fixed broken horn.
28 - replaced the burned out bulbs in the center console ac.
29 - replaced bushings in the gas pedal
30 - replaced the gas pedal.
31 - replaced the brake pedal cover.



To do
1 - clean and make the fuel level sensor functional.
2 - replace the lower and upper fuel filter.
3 - get tach working.
4 - install a hidden boost/vacuum gauge to get an idea on the health of the engine and vacuum system.
5 - drain and replace all ATF and trans filter.
6 - replace valve cover gasket
7 - replace lower oil pan gasket.
8 - track down any other oil leaks.
9 - replace all brake lines. ( The ones currently on are not cracked but I would rather replace them) also flush the brake system.
10 - replace the ac system controls with aftermarket and eliminate the Chrysler crap.
11 - keep tracking down vacuum leaks until they are 100% gone.
12 - repair the slight leak under the fuse box.
13 - replace tail light gaskets or fix the leaks.
14 - replace trunk seal. (Have the seal but have not done it yet)
15 - oil change with full synthetic oil.
16 - valve adjustment
18 - ???? Who know what else.

All I know it feels good to have this much done. With way more to come. My 300SD has become my anti stress car. It's finally driving very well and certainly makes the work done worth it. This is my first diesel as well as my first classic car. What a combo!
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Test Drive / Re: Aftermarket rims on the 116
« Last post by Nabstud on Today at 07:34 AM »
Something a bit different. Although I reckon it needs to be lowered a bit with those wheels to look just right.
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Shop / Re: WTB Main wiring harness for w116-6.9
« Last post by Lpeterssen on Today at 04:47 AM »
Is there any way you could replicate a harness using the original style sheathing instead of the modern looking sheathing?  The correct sheathing is still available from Mercedes and a few other sources.

Dear UTn_boy

Yes if you indicate me those suppliers of the original Mercedes tubbing a harness can be reconditioned using that external jacket instead of the nylon web I use.

It will be somehow more work since every connector will need to be de soldered and soldered back after since with that tubing there is no expansion which is possible with the nylon web.

On the other hand apart from practicality during the reconditioning work, the modern style nylon web allows better heat dissipation, which is a plus, because the passing of current generates heat, and when you have so many conductors together can be an issue.

For example it is common to see on Old harness when you recondition them, specially on headlight wire harness branches or taillights that cables are some how semi melted together, not to a point to cause a short, but gives you an idea that heat does not dissipate well with mercedes original tubing.

Also that tubbing collects moisture and water and that is not good with aged insulation cables, specially on T30 always hot lines.

And finally Mercedes on modern cars does not use that plastic tubbing anymore and there should be a important reason for that.

Best regards
L.peterssen
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Shop / Re: WTB Main wiring harness for w116-6.9
« Last post by Lpeterssen on Today at 04:36 AM »
Its pretty brutal to remove the harness. You have to remove most of the dash first. The main bundle is about as thick as your wrist and compltely inflexible. Removing all the wires from the fuse block is also a real chore. You then to to remove all the seats and carpet to get the rest out.

If just the engine bay wires and connectors are bad its easier  to just splice new wires and connectors into the old harness.
What exactly is the issue with what you have?

Dear Rumb

Mine harness is Ok, everything works as intended, but in my experience there is always a hidden damage somewhere and for that reason I wanted to remove it all and service throughout as I do for W113sl/109/11q and so ever cars.

The charging system in all those cars is always deteriorated somehow.  For example the T30 cable coming out of the alternator, it’s jacket is fragile because is a mixture of cotton and resins, I know that starting from 1970, there is a secondary jacket made of plastic below that one….   

I am not a splices fan, I prefer to have new conductors from connector to connector  (toe t toe) when I have a damaged cable.  If I have to do a splice I can make very professional ones soldered, preparing the join with abrasive sponge to have a perfect solder adhesion, etc.  I do it some times but always try to avoid it specially if is a T30 always hot cable involved.

Best regards
Leonardo Peterssen
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Mechanicals / Re: 6.9 transmission fluid and filter change video
« Last post by nathan on Today at 04:25 AM »
good point Alec, point taken!
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Test Drive / Re: Aftermarket rims on the 116
« Last post by gavin116 on Today at 12:38 AM »
In the end, I went for a stock Mercedes rim, but it’s not for the purist. The W116 and R107 were originally designed side-by-side. The R107 was one of the longest-running model types (except the original G-wagen and Unimog), and it started life with colour matched hubcaps or Bundts. In 1980 along with minor styling and engine changes M-B now offered them with ‘flat-face’ alloys, which in my opinion suit the car just as well as the Bunts ever did.

I went with an even later version of these, (square vent holes as opposed to lozenge-shaped) off an R129. They’re 16” and required 5mm spacers to sort the off-set. The rim worked fine on the rear, but wouldn’t clear some of the suspension and braking components in the front. You also have to use the matching longer wheel-bolts.

I’m running GoodYear efficient grip performance 225/50 R16 92W. The car handles well and the tyre creates little road noise. My speedometer is only out by less than 1% due to the fractional change in the rolling diameter of the new set-up.

The catch: I still have a 14’ Bundt (in fact I also have the 4 other originals in the loft at home on Hankooks) as a spare because the new rim is slightly wider and doesn’t fit the spare wheel well. It makes the trunk carpet ‘ride-high’. I also have to carry 5 spare Bundt specific lug bolts as they’re a different length to the new alloys.

If it floats your boat… Why not?

Gavin
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Interiors & Exteriors / Re: Trip Meter Issue and Cluster Lights
« Last post by Nabstud on Yesterday at 08:56 PM »
If you do take the cluster out DO NOT start the car until you have properly sealed the oil gauge feed, otherwise oil will squirt out and stain your interior…
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Shop / Re: WTB Main wiring harness for w116-6.9
« Last post by UTn_boy on Yesterday at 08:42 PM »
Is there any way you could replicate a harness using the original style sheathing instead of the modern looking sheathing?  The correct sheathing is still available from Mercedes and a few other sources. 
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Test Drive / Re: Aftermarket rims on the 116
« Last post by raueda1 on Yesterday at 08:35 PM »
Thank you for your responses! I guess I will get the OEM rims refinished in this case which will cost a lot less and maintain original look
If you mean getting 14" OEM rims refinished, I'd reconsider.  I assume that would be expensive.   But more to the point, getting appropriate tires will be a substantial problem, and one that will likely get worse.  I'd seriously think about 15" Bundt replicas.  Cheers,
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