The ORGTruly Independent and Unbiased!
Started by TNNBENZ, 09 November 2021, 12:59 PM
Quote from: TNNBENZ on 09 November 2021, 01:04 PM May should have posted this in Exterior............
Quote from: UTn_boy on 10 November 2021, 08:46 AMEverything you need to know about the front glass is here in this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v4hAT0aSIyM. The only thing I caution against is using cheap seals. The last 7 or 8 URO seals I've tried to install (for customers) I had to throw in the garbage. There is an unwritten rule related to the aforementioned that needs to be more commonplace........When it comes to rubber, suspension, and internal engine and transmission parts, never ever buy aftermarket. Three years ago I watched a stubborn friend try to install a URO front glass seal in his W116, and he ended up cracking his front glass. He had to then buy a new glass. The seal was too big in that it didn't want to fit into the opening in the car. He forced it. Hence, the cracked glass. So he bought a new glass, another URO seal, an had a professional glass ship install it this time. But guess what happened.....again? The glass cracked because of the seal. Even with a professional glass shop doing the work URO refused to compensate for anything. But do as you wish, though. Just offering a fair warning. The rear glass is pretty much installed in the same way, but you have to cut holes in the rubber seal to allow the wires for the heated glass to go through. Make sure you keep your old seal so you know where to put the holes. Be sure to remove the rear rail for the parcel shelf, the "C" pillar panels, and the upper center roof rail trim. And last, be sure to use the proper sealant between the car and the seals, and between the seals and the glass (after installation). Otheriwise water will leak in, even with new seals. Mercedes didn't use sealant for the fun of it. It's there for a reason. The sealant is still available from Mercedes for little money. It goes in any caulking gun you can buy at any home improvement store. The part number for the sealant is 001-989-31-20. The actual process would require a reply the length of a novel, and no one wants to type that much. Have a look at the youtube video and decide for yourself if you're comfortable with doing the job or not.
Quote from: w123wrench on 16 November 2021, 05:47 AMHeyHope I didn't catch this too late. You probably have the glass in by now. My best tip is invest in one or two of the Orange double suction cup handles from Harbor freight. I've done three window seals now and they turn this into a one man job. You can pick up the glass alone safely with them and you can get into the car and pull the glass in with them after getting the glass in place. The rest...use a lot of soap water. The first time I did it I was afraid of rust so I was sparing. It made things very hard. Be patient taking off and installing the metal trim. It is easily damaged if you deform it too much. I install the trim with soap and water with the window and deal off the car. Being outside the car gives the edge that extra little degree of freedom to easily slip it over the rubber. So it's rubber on glass, trim on rubber, then assembly into car using suction cups. It took me awhile to figure that out. I am not a 116 owner...yet. Ive done this on 123s and a 126. Ive heard on Peachparts that the 116 URO seals are problematic. Ive had good luck with the recent URO seals for the 123. However they are not as beefy as the MB OEM and they do not cover the masking lines of my cars' repaint. That is, the lip is too short to extend past the old seal's boundary. It's better than a leaky window but it is ugly. Good luck.
Quote from: w123wrench on 17 November 2021, 05:53 AMI have had my URO seals in 2-3 years on my 123. They're great. Pliable. They went in easy. Not sure why they'd cause the window to break. Perhaps they're too tight on a 116? I have this recollection of somebody in the URO seal thread at peachparts complaining about his seals. Maybe the same guy. The feeling I got was the 123 people were happy but the rare 116 guy was not. If they're tight don't force it. With soap it should slip right in with a clothesline. I used telephone wire because I had a ton of it and it is more slippery than a clothesline.I don't know what to tell you. It's not like we have many choices. ETA - okay I've read the thread again. It was the 126 rear seal guy who was mad. And he had done his job over a decade ago. The URO marketing guy actually lurks peach and posted to the thread. They e apparently gotten a 3D laser scanner recently and remade many of their parts for better fit. I've noticed a big change in their parts in the last four years. Prior to that URO was abominable. Check back to see if your contact with the cracked window person did this recently. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/406160-do-i-dare-use-uro-window-seals-4.html
Quote from: UTn_boy on 17 November 2021, 01:58 PMThere were no issues at hand. The URO seal was simply too thick. The W123 URO seals have never really given any problems. It's the W116 URO seals that don't fit. And if you weren't aware, Mercedes still sells the front and rear glass seals for the W116. You'll pay a minuscule +/- $120=$130 more (combined) for the Mercedes seals. That' a small price to pay compare to what is at stake. And I'm not a member of the Peach Parts forum, I never have been, nor would I ever be......it's too full of know it all type people, misinformed people, and downright mean people whose sole mission is to discredit anyone, everything, and everyone regardless of what facts are provided. There is even another forum or website that sends out a daily email highlighting something dumb or stupid someone has done or said on Peach Parts........it's quite the laughing stock of the Mercedes community. I don't subscribe to that, either, but I get plenty of forwarded emails to me showing some of those emails. Half the time I can't believe what I see or read.
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