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Window washers

Started by editjunk, 06 June 2005, 07:44 AM


Trying to keep the windscreen clean is becoming a problem. For one, I can't orientate the left hand side squirter. Does anyone know how? Secondly, it seems that there is no pressure, and often the wipers go but there is no water when I press down on the activator located left hand side on the floor. I'm driving a RH drive 350SE. Any help would be appreciated.


Hey editjunk,
Good to see another 350se owner.  Assuming the obvious that your resevoir is full, does your washer motor make any noise? Mine's definitely loud enough to be heard and both squirters pump a decent amount of water.

As far as aiming the washers, I did mine whilst working on that area for rust. Unlike modern cars that have sprays that are adjusted with sewing pins or thin nails, the sprayers in our cars, as you probably know are relatively thick metal pipes sticking out of the chrome vent.

What I did was remove the chrome vent, then use the inner round part of a pair of pliers' jaws to bend each pipe.  From memory, each sprayer or pipe was supported by a plastic or metal bracket that holds em up.  These may be able to be adjusted to lift up or down the sprayers, However, I honestly cant say I've tried this method or know if it csn be done.  Either way the pipe has to bend a little
1973 350SE, my first & fave



Yes, you assume correctly: press the button on the floor, I get a squirt of water plus an intermediate wipe. However, the switch on the column has slow, fast , and intermediate wiping.  I'll try that silicone based lube and the repositioning technique. Thanks for your replies.


... oh, and we are the forgotten ones, aren't we. Can't find a manual that even mentions our cars. Go 350SE!


Gee thanks Styria, I always wondered what attached the intake grill to the firewall lip ie push on plastic clips.

I have a question for you. Re the "forgotten one" reference, there's plenty of info on the net and some printed material on 280's and 450's, mostly due to 350's never being sold in the US I'd imagine. I've wanted to join either the NSW or the ACT MB clubs but have held off due to living six hours drive from both sydney or canberra and would realistically have little to contribute.  However you mention borrowing reference material from the library. Would that involve visiting the club rooms or can these items be posted to members or is photocopying available?
1973 350SE, my first & fave


Months later...

These cars are amazing. More than once, my car has miraculously fixed itself. The window washers now squirt dead centre and it's a miracle. I was going to fiddle about, but have been very busy at work and haven't the time. Last week I was most pleased when the LH squirter came on line all by itself.

Once again Benz self fixing technology comes up with the goods!


Hi editjunk !
One thing that classic Mercedes do that people simply dont know ever existed is that many, many things can be "repaired" with cleaning/lubricating fluids and whenthat doesn't work, disassembly, cleaning, lubricating and re-assembling. No parts required ! Try that with a bulbous 200X garbage-mobile !

And when parts do fail, they are generally worth their cost : cheap things are cheap and more complex parts cost more (much?) . What ? make these complex parts cheaper you say ? No, doing that is a one way ticket to the land of ....bulbous garbage-mobiles :-(

Merry Christmas from Paris



Quote from: "Denis"... when parts do fail, they are generally worth their cost : cheap things are cheap and more complex parts cost more (much?) ...

That depends on how/where you buy them.
The prices I pay in Oz are, for most Benz parts, very little different (and occasionally lower!) from the prices for common, (allegedly) locally made garbage-mobiles.

I just don't buy them from M-B Australia stealerships, who want an arm and a leg for the pretty blue-and-white box. My supplier/s buy direct from the OEMs (original equipment manufacturers).

Examples of parts recently purchased:

For 1965 W111 220Sb -
tie-rod end $23
front brake rotors $80 each
rear screen weather seal (the big rubber gasket) $85 (interestingly, MB-Oz claimed such a part was no longer available - read "not interested in going to the bother" - and an Australian specialist manufacturer of restoration rubbers for classic cars wanted almost $300 for one!).

For 1979 W116 280SE -
front brake rotors $135 the pair (local M-B stealership wanted almost $400!)
factory-rebuilt steering box $450 (over a grand MORE from the stealership!).

The above were all genuine M-B parts, not "no-name" crap from some third-rate manufacturer. They had to be imported from Germany at some  part of the process (sometimes once I'd ordered them, sometimes long before), import duties and taxes paid, and the vendor had to make a profit.

Everyone (except, perhaps, the M-B stealerships) is a winner!
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Your points about where lies the blame for high prices of parts are no doubt valid.

It's a pity that my local stealership is not like your Marshalls.

Attitude, surely, is not dictated by Untert?rkheim; the attitude of most of the stealerships I know simply sucks - they are not interested in "oldies" at all. I've even been told that - in very plain terms (although not rudely) - by the owner of a local stealership.

I have discovered one M-B dealer in Brisbane who has good attitude and is very supportive of the Qld M-B Club and its members; it seems, though, that he's a rarity. Unfortunately, Brisbane is 200 km away and must be dealt wiith by phone or visit; it's eaiser and cheaper to deal over the internet with unofficial suppliers.
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