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Wheel alignment

Started by Mforcer, 23 June 2007, 06:29 PM

carl888

Hahahahaha, nothing like attempting to answer a question from 2007 :)  My apologies!

carl888

Hi Simon,

A steering pull is so annoying...  I had the same problem with my 126 and it drove me nuts.  After a myriad of alignments on my newly calibrated machine I decided to do what I thought I should have done in the first place!

1. Make sure the steering box is centered.  In my case, my box was not, it was one spline out on the pitman arm.  Not usually a problem, however I suppose the power steering valve was just open enough to cause trouble. After I centered the box, it still did it, a slight pull the left.

2. I decided to flip one tyre on the rim.  I run a Michelin XWX which is symmetrical and non directional so you can run them anyway you wish.  I flipped the passenger side front 180 degrees and that fixed the problem.

Regards,

Carl.





Quote from: LordFernwood on 27 January 2011, 09:04 PM
Wow,  what a mine of useful information this trail was for me.   Thanks so much. 

I've been having difficulty getting the tire shop to fix the tendency for my w116 (1980 SD) to pull to the right.  They did an alignment (making some adjustments to Camber and Toe only (the printed report only identifies these changes), and diagnosed my 'pull' as being caused by a seizing right caliper.   (separate story re their quote for each remanuf caliper at $420cdn each -  I bought at $131 each from the local shop). 

I replaced the right side (just ran out of time for the left) and 'Bismark' still pulls to the right. 

So my conclusion is that either a) the steering box needs centering,  or b) they just messed up the alignment.   

More to follow.....

Simon

WGB

#17
Quote from: LordFernwood on 27 January 2011, 09:04 PM
So my conclusion is that either a) the steering box needs centering,  or b) they just messed up the alignment.  

Simon

Or more likely - both.

I would centre the box and align the steering wheel with the centred box and then get thewheels aligned to that central steering wheel position.

The steering box will also be at the position of least freeplay at the central position.

Bill

LordFernwood

#18
Thanks guys...   In the next little while I'll do both (well,  I'll do the centering, and the shop will do the Caster).

By the way,  here is that link to the shop printout that I forgot to include in the last post  

S

carl888

Hi Simon,

Looks like just a minor tweak of the toe.  There is a bit of negative camber on the front which is no bad thing. Really need to see the caster figure before we can go further though.

Regards,

Carl.

 

sshanky

Fascinating stuff. I just got a cheap alignment on my 1980 300SD and it didn't solve my problem, which was the pulling to the right. Instead, now my steering wheel is not quite centered when I am driving straight. The guy used a computerized machine but my car was not in the database (indeed nothing that old from MB was even in there, so he just selected some other one). He attached devices to the front and rear wheels and got under there and loosened and banged and I watched as the indicators on the screen came into the green zones. The steering wheel moved a bit sometimes, and he came to check its position and recenter it. I offered to help so he had me get in and hold it in the center position. I suspect it was good to have my weight in the car, too.

Meanwhile, I need to go back, and he'll adjust it for me for no charge, but I wonder if I am better off doing this (centralization) myself -- I have a screw now that fits into another steering box my friend has lying around (although it doesn't seem to quite freeze the steering like I'd like it to).

For those who want it, here is a page with some numbers/specs that was hard to find.

jbrasile

sshanky,

Finding a place to align our cars as per the factory is almost impossible in the States, I struggled for years in Los Angeles and finally got it done at Caliber Motors (MB Dealer) in Anaheim California, car has been perfect ever since. The worst part was asking shops if they used a spreader bar or centered the steering box using a bolt inserted in the hole made for that purpose and have the tech look at me as if I was from another planet....

98% of "regular" alignment shops have no clue how to properly do a 116. Pulling right is almost like a design feature on these cars, they are super sensitive to caster and toe, not so much to camber in my experience. I always ask for 9.5 to 10 degrees caster on both sides and if the shop has the spreader bar  they can get the toe perfect and the car will handle like new.

My advice: don't even waste your time with this shop you mentioned. Do some research and find a place with a Hunter Laserligner or equivalent and make sure they not only have 116's in their database, but also know the little tricks to get it right.

Tks,

Joe

sshanky

Good advice. I wish I had done more research and known about the right-pulling...I have a feeling the car was in very good alignment given what I've read about pulling. I have an 81 w123 and after we got the front end parts that  needed replacement fixed, it went perfectly straight down the road. I have a feeling these cars hold their alignments pretty well.

My only issue right now is to have the wheels pointing straight when the steering wheel is straight.

I think I will research the machine you're talking about.

Thanks for the advice.

calvin streeting

Quote from: sshanky on 05 April 2011, 10:19 AM

My only issue right now is to have the wheels pointing straight when the steering wheel is straight.

stearing wheel should be in alignment with the stearing box, and alignment should be done with box in the zero posistion.

do not just remove the stearing wheel and replace on spline. make sure which is out wheels,stearing box, stearing wheel before you do anything

jbrasile

Great advice from Calvin.

Your alignment as previously stated is fixed, it is pure myth to have a car re-aligned just because you replace your tires so once you get it right do not touch it unless something such as a curb hit, or large pot hole knocks the specs out.

The issue you have with the steering being off is indeed related to centering the box/toe, ideally you would center the box with the screw, center the wheel according to the box position and the little mark on the steering shaft, install the spreader bar and check/adjust the toe with everything at zero.

Tks,

Joe