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What have you done for your W116 today?

Started by BWalker82, 18 May 2011, 06:27 PM

George

Finally figured out how to depress the cylinders to change break pads last night, Oh and I finally found a working secondhand fuel accumulator.


Casey

Is there something special about these cars I should know about?  I've got new brake pads on the way...and was hoping to install them myself.

George

#62
Was used to my little echonomy car where you could just depress the cylinders with two screwdrivers.

Only thing that was new here was it has locking pins that just needs to be knocked out and in.

I struggled with this monster pressure system but then I remembered someone mention a C-clamp. There's two spots on each pad side where you can fit a hand vice clamp or perhaps a C-clamp, so if you have two of these the job is real easy. Depress one pad at a time using the two clamps at the two ends, gradually adjusting the clamp settings. You need this as the cylinders needs to be FULLY depressed before you can get the new pads in. Use the existing pads to clamp the cylinder all the way back before you take them out.

Remember to undo the break fluid tank cap and maybe siphon some out in case you might overflow it.

Casey

Quote from: George on 15 July 2011, 04:51 AM
Was used to my little echonomy car where you could just depress the cylinders with two screwdrivers.

Only thing that was new here was it has locking pins that just needs to be knocked out and in.

What do those look like and how do you knock them in/out?  Do you have a picture by chance or did you find a guide online?

QuoteI struggled with this monster pressure system but then I remembered someone mention a C-clamp. There's two spots on each pad side where you can fit a hand vice clamp or perhaps a C-clamp, so if you have two of these the job is real easy. Depress one pad at a time using the two clamps at the two ends, gradually adjusting the clamp settings. You need this as the cylinders needs to be FULLY depressed before you can get the new pads in. Use the existing pads to clamp the cylinder all the way back before you take them out.

I've got lots of C-clamps, and am familiar with this process on other newer cars - only thing that threw me off was a Mustang where you have to twist the cylinders, as clamping will never get them to budge.  Never needed to open the brake fluid cap before though.

George

#64
It's in the online manual of awesomeness http://handbook.w116.org/matrix6.htm

For me to get there I navigated: the 280SE - year 80 - Continue - Chassis and body manual - 42 Brakes,hydraulic and mechanical - more - 106 Replacement of break pads.

The pins is like the pins used on most cars accept that they are secured by just being knocked in as upposed to a surclip or some or other device.

Just use a small screwdriver or rod that would fit the holes to knock them out and make sure they are in all the way when you replace them.

The manual has a special tool, a modified hand vice with flat jaws but using two normal vices on the ends of the pads worked for me.

mswcpt

@ my mechanic's at the moment:

1. Steering box overhaul
2. Had master and slave clutch cylinders replaced with new parts.
3. LHS passenger door mirror fitted with new glass.
4. Carb overhaul.
5. 4 New tyres.
6. New front discs.
7. replaced bonnet insulation (was making a BIG mess in my engine bay)
8. new handle for front passenger seat upright adjuster
9. Heater system overhaul.
10. Engine clean

8)

In pipe-line - new aircon compressor, genuine MB bundts.

WGB


[/quote]

I've got lots of C-clamps, and am familiar with this process on other newer cars - only thing that threw me off was a Mustang where you have to twist the cylinders, as clamping will never get them to budge.  Never needed to open the brake fluid cap before though.
[/quote]

I compress my caliper pistons by gently removing the pins ( An old nail does this quite well and is softer than a pin punch)  and then sqeezing a medium sized screwdriver between the exposed bit of backing plate top and bottom that does not have pad bonded to it. Slide in the the tip of the screwdriver so that it is not just compressing the outside edge and alternating pressure top and bottom making sure that the shaft of the screwdriver is on the disc and the tip of the screwdriver is pressing on the pad.

When a bit of a gap has developed I move the screwdriver to the centre of the pad and using the point of the screwdriver into the pad material and lever off the disc until the piston is fully home - repeating for each side.

If a piston is either seized or moist with fluid  the calipers will need rebuilding.

Take great care with the fragile pad wear harness connector where it bolts onto the caliper and give it a very wide berth - never lever off it or it will cost you a new caliper if you want to keep the car original after snapping of the mounting titty.

The pad retaining pins often break their spring ends and one or other may need replacement and I use new pad wear sensors and either M-B brake paste or newer brake specific silicon anti squeal on the top and bottom edges and backs of the new pads top prevent squeal.

If you have topped up/replaced brake fluid with the pads partially worn you will have to watch for overflow and remove some before it does making sure that nothing that goes into the brake fluid has the slightest contaminationm with oil - this includes dirty fingers but the master cylinders are designed to slowly go down to safe limits as the pads wear and magically fill up as the pads are replaced .

Bill

jbrasile

It is also possible to use a pair of vise grip pliers to compress the pistons, you grab at the tip of the pad and caliper flange, squeeze a little, then tighten the pliers, squeeze some more until the pistons go as far in as possible. I then remove the first pad, turn it 90 degrees and use it as a lever with friction material facing the disk to push the piston as far as it will go. This ensures the disk is not scratched or damaged.

Very important: remove one pad at a time, compress, install the new one and go for the next pad, if you remove both pads and push the piston in, the opposite side will move and become super hard to push back.

Tks,

Joe

RB450SEL

Well, I have just finished replacing the tires, all the shocks, the upper control arms up front (a bit of a trick in a driveway,) all the brake pads and brake pad sensors, the front rotors, the electronic ignition box, the battery (Optima = happy,) reupholstered and re-stuffed the seats without the compressed horse hair, added a vinyl dash cover (for now,) serviced the alternator, and tomorrow, will replace all the spark plug wires, spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor. It has been firing on just seven cylinders with a gasoline smell from the non-firing No. 1 cylinder. Maybe the taped spark plug wire on the No. 1 plug was telling me something.

In the process of removing the air filter, broken vacuum lines were revealed and repaired. Since 1976, things can get brittle.

I might end up spending $2,500 on this thing, parts and purchase included. It had LOW miles and working air conditioning as purchased.

Did find Visonik is still in business, and one way or the other, the Visonik David 5001s are going in this car. The cabin quietude deserves recording studio quality sound. My last Mercedes, a 220 gas, had the original Visonik Davids 33 years ago. I have never heard, in any car since, audio of that quality. I work, and work with others on motion picture soundtracks amongst other things. Skywalker Sound and I mix on the same studio monitors.

Funny, the old license plate read MUSICBZ. I kept it.

Richard

George

#69
Sounds sweet.

Busy doing an engine clean for a road worthy test, repaced reflectors and got some emergency triangle's.
Hehe.. found a first aid kit that I could fit in the back first aid box. I like that, and got a fire extinguisher in case they start complaining about any leakyness as a last resort.

Going to browse the benz yard for a replacement winshield water bottle pump, some rubber bushes and possibly some good oil cooler pipes.

brettj

I had the transmission seals and crank case seals replaced, oil and filter change , transmission fluid and filter change, transmission vac modulator replaced, brake fluid change, radiator flushed and new coolant, new idler arm bushing. Currently in the shop for cam shaft replacement which has turned into a nightmare as the new cams were installed but now the car does not run! My mechanic is still trying to solve that problem.

1980sdga


RB450SEL

Today installed new distributor rotor, rotor cap, all spark plugs and spark plug wires. The smell of gas has about vanished, as all the cylinders are now firing properly. The car starts in 2 seconds instead of 4, a testament to eliminating a lot of corrosion and installing high end spark plugs.

Also installed very nice cupholders in the center console. By the company who does the ones for BMW, but these are niftier, designed to self-contain any leaks/spills/sweating cups as well as to hold BIG drinks for road trips. Two of them fit nicely behind the shifter. Not exactly stock, but a welcome upgrade.

Also replaced the electrical connection to the aux fan temp sensor, as it broke in removing the air cleaner and cold start system. Simple fix.

Still need a bit of adjustment on the belts, a good alignment, and some more bushings work.

Just happy to get the thing running solid for the road. Not quite perfect, but beginning to get nice.

Oh, another Visonik/Audio shout out:

Soon to order the Visonik David 5001i speakers directly from Visonik in Germany. These are the ONLY speakers which do justice to the superb audio environment of the Mercedes. They have no competition from any other manufacturer. They are recording studio quality, used in mobile studios in Europe, and after having them in my original Mercedes 220 gas back in 1979 (yes, they have been around forever, going through upgrades,) I have never heard a car audio system even remotely as good. I've heard a LOT of them, and they're all weak somewhere, often plenty loud, but muddled. Super high end audio has been a thing with me for decades. I am sitting in front of Miller and Kreisel 2510s as I type, but listening to my ambient audio by Orb Audio, which, after the break-in, combined with a sub, are well above average. Not for 115dB rock and roll mixing (like the 2510s) but fine for multi room cross stereo ambient up to maybe 90dB. For the ultra clean, the Magnepans are, well, still in storage, as I have no space here which will fit them properly.

gavin116

#73
Hi RB,

Could you post some pictures of the new cup holders?  I am waiting on new HT leads myself.  I have not ordered a new dizzy cap though.  What sort of mileage had you done on your old dizzy cap, and what was its condition like when you replaced it?  I think I might have to give Joe another shout.  (Looks like Joe will be able to send all his kids to uni at this rate! He,he...)

Regards

Gavin
1979 450SE "Mrs White"
2022 Touareg-R 3.0TSi Hybrid
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TJ 450

RB450SEL,

Are you mounting the mini monitors in your car? ;)

I too would like to see the cup holders. I really need to invest in some, as I have become quite accustomed to them in another vehicle.

Tim
1976 450SEL 6.9 1432
1969 300SEL 6.3 1394
2003 ML500