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What have you done for your W116 today?

Started by BWalker82, 18 May 2011, 06:27 PM

johnnyw116

Confirmed! I just found the original import paperwork from 1978 and it's indeed listed as tiefgrün.
[/quote]
Great ! 
This is a sonderlackierung (special color) and an cool rare color to have on the W116
JohnnyW116

johnnyw116

#466
Almost 2 years ago my car stopped running on LPG (Liquefied Petroleum Gas) , it´s not an big issue for driving becouse i always drive it on petrol ,i only drive it on lpg once every two years for the APK test/inspection becouse on the registration of my 350SE the main fuel is LPG so it has to run on LPG for the APK and only the main fuel gets an CO test ,the APK is similar like the MOT or TUV test/inspection , but i think the TUV or MOT are much tougher to pass than the APK that we have overhere .
it turned out that the LPG shut off valve stayed closed , i replaced it with an new one and now it runs fine again on lpg , so another job done that was for quite some time on my to do list   
JohnnyW116

BigGreenMachine


Jan S

Today, the 1975 450 SE w/ 6.9 completed a 3 week and exactly 3.000 km (1.864 miles) road trip to Germany, including a visit to the Mercedes Benz Museum in Fellbach.

No technical problems whatsoever and the car drove very nicely on the Autobahn, even at high speed. Cruising speed was normally 120 km/h (75 miles/h). We didn't want to stress "the old man", hence we limited the highest speed to 180 km/h (112 miles/h).

Fuel consumption clocked in on 15.1 liter/100 km (15.58 miles/gallon, US). Engine oil about 2 liter (0.5 gallon, US) which is within spec, I believe?

We parked right outside the Museum's main entrance (the tip came from one of you in the Forum - THANKS!). What a great reception, it felt like Coming Home after 48 years! And the Museum was well worth the trip.
1975-mod W116 450 SE with 6.9 engine

SteveDuNord

'77 280se

gurrier

I am sure it was a memorable experience.  On my bucket list also.
1973 350SE

johnnyw116

Cool ! Germany is for me just "next door" but i never went to the Museum , but it must be twice the experience going there with an classic Mercedes
JohnnyW116

Neil4speed

What a trip Jan - something that dreams are made of, especially that last iconic shot.

I went when I was about 12 and loved the experience, but had to rush through as we got there an hour before closing. Still a great memory though.

Jan S

Yes, a great trip! I will carry that experience with me for a long time.
1975-mod W116 450 SE with 6.9 engine

rumb

Jan S.  Did you see the message I sent you?
'68 250S
'77 6.9 Euro
'91 300SE,
'98 SL500
'14 CLS550,
'16 AMG GTS
'21 E450 Cabrio

Jan S

Quote from: rumb on 23 August 2022, 04:20 PMJan S.  Did you see the message I sent you?


Yes, I did now. Sorry for the late reply ... not easy to see that there was a message in the inbox.
1975-mod W116 450 SE with 6.9 engine

Type17

Quote from: Jan S on 6/30/2022, 11:42:35 PMMy understanding is that the ballast resistors help to regulate the current and the voltage in the ignition system, thereby protecting individual components such as battery, coil, etc.Is that correct?

Ballast resistors reduce the voltage to the coil to 10v - coils of cars of this era run at 10v, so that they'll still give a good spark during cranking (when the starter is taking so much power that the voltage drops throughout the system).

During cranking, the ballast resistor is bypassed, and receives the full voltage of the electrical system (which is only ~10v, because of the cranking).

When you release the key, the ignition switch powers the coil through the ballast resistor again, so it continues to receive 10v while the engine is running.

Some cars (Mk1 Golf is one that I know of) don't have visible ballast resistors, but have ballast wire (extra resistance for a voltage drop) in the loom, which is bypassed during cranking by a regular wire.
'76 350SE in Silver-Green

Jan S

Quote from: Type17 on 05 September 2022, 03:52 PMQuote from: Jan S on 6/30/2022, 11:42:35 PMMy understanding is that the ballast resistors help to regulate the current and the voltage in the ignition system, thereby protecting individual components such as battery, coil, etc.Is that correct?

Ballast resistors reduce the voltage to the coil to 10v - coils of cars of this era run at 10v, so that they'll still give a good spark during cranking (when the starter is taking so much power that the voltage drops throughout the system).

During cranking, the ballast resistor is bypassed, and receives the full voltage of the electrical system (which is only ~10v, because of the cranking).

When you release the key, the ignition switch powers the coil through the ballast resistor again, so it continues to receive 10v while the engine is running.

Some cars (Mk1 Golf is one that I know of) don't have visible ballast resistors, but have ballast wire (extra resistance for a voltage drop) in the loom, which is bypassed during cranking by a regular wire.

Great, thanks! Very good summary.

Jan
1975-mod W116 450 SE with 6.9 engine

raueda1

Mapped out my autumn improvement program, more or less in order.  Many fun projects!  Lots to do!  Ordering parts now.

  • Finalize WUR & fuel system settings
  • Starter Bendix is lazy.  Get spare starter rebuilt, swap current starter and then rebuild that one too.
  • Replace rear window gasket.  Get rear window tinted while it's out.  Then retint other windows.  They're already tinted but slightly too light to suit me.  Need to go a shade more gangster.
  • Check valve timing and adjust as needed
  • Rebuild all the seats.  Probably ditch the MB-Tex and reupholster in leather.
  • Door/interior work:  Adjust and lube all the windows, check/repair any vac leaks on lock system, lube seat lazy belt retractors.
  • Clean up rats nest of audio cables in trunk (all 5 are about 2' too long)
  • Finish repairing crack on dash
  • Do minor paint touchups
  • Hook up air horn
-Dave
Now:  1976 6.9 Euro, 2015 GL550
Before that:  1966 230S, 1964 220SE coupe, 1977 Carrera 3.0

sutekh

Quote from: raueda1 on 19 September 2022, 02:05 PM
  • Finish repairing crack on dash

Interesting. Tell us more? How are you planning to repair a single crack vs. replacing / covering the dash?