News:

www.W116.org - By the people, for the people!

Main Menu

What have you done for your W116 today?

Started by BWalker82, 18 May 2011, 06:27 PM

cejpat

Oil gauge was a little jumpy and there was a nailing sound.

Changed pre-filter after running 2 bottles of Lubro Moly's Diesel Purge + cetane booster to the tank.

Nailing gone.

Changed oil + filter.

Changed air filter.

Oil gauge back to normal.

r5149

This last week I removed all the door panels on my 116. From the looks of the plastic moisture seals, they had never been off!  I lubricated the guide rails & every moving part on the regulators with Bosch distributor lubricant. Let me tell you that those power windows go up & down like they did at the factory in Stuttgart, 33 years ago.           Such a beauty, I love my 116!!

albe

This weekend I lowered my ride (hard job with out the right tool's) so it sat better on the 20'' rim I put on this week and also fixed(replaced) the driver's inside door handle ,no more bumping the door open .
this is before


and after

Beastie

#153
I just got done changing the oil & filter for the first time since I bought it. First time I've ever done it on a W116. I reckon it was easier on this car than it is to do on the W108, that's for sure! The filter is much more accessible.



The old oil was thick and black and mingin' and in bad need of changing. I feel good now that it's done. 8)
1979 280SEL

"She's built like a steakhouse, but she handles like a bistro."

Tony66_au

Good choice!

Especially with high Zinc which is an excellent lube in older pre unleaded engines.

JasonP



Today when I got home, after driving in 100+ degree temps on the highway for my half-hour commute, I let the engine idle for 3 or 4 minutes before shutting it off. I have read that this helps the turbo cool down more gradually. I don't know if this is true or not, but it seems to make sense.

1979 300SD
Color: 623H "Light Ivory"
1979 300SD
Color: 861H "Silver Green Metallic"
1977 280 E
Color: 606G "Maple Yellow"
-------------------------------------------

Tony66_au

Yes its true, this practise more extends turbo seal life and protects from heat soak even in low blow turbos as it allows the engine oil to cool somewhat in circulation which draws heat away from the turbo housing itself providing the cooling system is up to scratch.

3 to 5 mins is a good example.

tony

TJ 450

Turbo cooling issues are more of a problem with petrol engines (actually it's a big issue).

It certainly wouldn't hurt to let it cool down a bit though.

Tim
1976 450SEL 6.9 1432
1969 300SEL 6.3 1394
2003 ML500

ptashek

Had two rusty corners around the sliding roof, so I've popped the rust bubbles, got rid of all the loose rust then treated the rest with a rust converter. After a while I've wire-brushed it to clean shiny metal, put a high-zinc primer, some aluminium enriched putty to fill the pits and then sprayed it all to cover. It doesn't look even half-decent (the spray can is original icon gold, the car isn't), but will get the car through to when it'll be treated to a full body restoration next year.  Oh, and there's three new sunroof seals as a bonus.

Here it is: job in progress.

Then I've changed the coolant, from green (whatever it was) to blue (ethylene glycol), but I'll need to properly flush the whole system with citric acid at next change.
Surprisingly enough, I've drained the 350SE donor yesterday before getting slowly to removing its engine, and it also had green coolant. Anyone know what the green stuff may be based on?
1993 "Pearl Blue" W124 280TE
1988 "Arctic White" W124 200T
1979 "Icon Gold" W116 450SE

Big_Richard

#159
.

Tony66_au


JasonP

1979 300SD
Color: 623H "Light Ivory"
1979 300SD
Color: 861H "Silver Green Metallic"
1977 280 E
Color: 606G "Maple Yellow"
-------------------------------------------

hi ho

I replaced the water pump
I also made up a short concise pictorial of it for my future reference
just thought it may help someone else....


gavin116

Hi, hi ho

Nice write-up and pictorial(especially since I share the M117 engine). When I did the coolant and hoses on Mrs W, there were only three that I didn't replace: the two heater supplies, will still do, easy job, and then that whoppingly expensive water pump to engine block hose. Now that I know you don't have to take the entire water pump and dizzy off to do the job, I may well get stuck in at some point (I have the new hose and hose clamps in the loft). Would you have to replace the seal on the top section of the water pump if you pulled it apart, or is that not necessary, kind of similar to when you pull the thermostat housing, in that there isn't a seal/gasket?

Thanks for sharing,

Gavin
1979 450SE "Mrs White"
2022 Touareg-R 3.0TSi Hybrid
[url="http://forum.w116.org/test-drive/my-first-w116-here-at-last/"]http://forum.w116.org/test-drive/my-first-w116-here-at-last/[/url]
[url="http://forum.w116.org/the-org/british-near-london-meet/msg97613/#msg97613"]http://forum.w116.org/the-org/british-near-london-meet/msg97613/#msg97613[/url]

Big_Richard

#164
.