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Valve adjustment

Started by Jimbo, 20 March 2010, 03:02 PM

Jimbo

Today me and a good friend tryed to adjust the valves on my car but when we got the cover off we were not really to sure on how to remove the clips without doing any damage to them we allso cant figure out how to get a wrench in there to do the adjustment theres just no room to move a wrench in there !

we did check the vavles anyway and there is a few lose ones in there and one that is a little more lose than the others but still there not lose by much but I dont care I want them all to be right were they need to be the car has high millage and I can tell by the burnt spots on the cam shafts that some jerk in the past was not taking good care of the oil in the engine :( >:(

I am going to pick up the book on the car anyway so I dont kill my M110 by doing somthing stuiped and now I figure I should have started here first so I would appreciate any info, thank you all !

s class



[color=blue]'76 6.9 Euro[/color], [color=red]'78 6.9 AMG[/color], '80 280SE, [color=brown]'74 350SE[/color], [color=black]'82 500SEL euro full hydro, '83 500SEL euro full hydro [/color], '81 500SL

oscar

#2
A couple more tips. Those retainer springs are easily removed with a screwdriver as the manual says but might be a bit daunting if you've never taken one off before.  Just refer to the 1st pic below.  You shove a screwdriver where shown and lever back towards the cam and they pop off.



I'd like to stress that when you put the springs on again that the three tongues on the lower part of the spring must go into the correct slot on the lifter/stud.  It's too easy to accidentally have the lower part of the spring locate itself right below the rocker arm instead.  To put on correctly, it requires the spring to be stretched opened a little as you slide them on the rocker arms so the first two side tounges take hold in the slot.  The the lower part of the spring has to be pushed hard to seat the last tounge.  You can use your thumb to drive them home though they will get sore if not cut.  I usually use the end of the screwdriver's handle to push them in.  You usually hear a click. 

Pay attention to the diagram shown in that manual link that's also below, where the spring should go, and the three tongues appear in the very last pic below.

Lastly, try and find a good gooseneck open ended 17mm spanner to adjust valve clearance like the one shown in the manual.  It's all too easy to round the lifter's hex surfaces with a poor fitting spanner. You might find some have already been damaged a little from prior adjustments. 



1973 350SE, my first & fave

Jimbo

Oh wow thats a big help guys thank you, I have been real busy at my new job and have had no time at all to do anything to the car but I do plan on doing this ASAP, I am driving about 90 miles ( 50 minutes to work, 50 mins to get home ) a day in the old benz and so far so good, I just drove it almost 500 miles at 70 mph ( almost 4,000 rpms the hole way  :D ;D !!!!!) in one day with no problems at all the hole trip !!!!  this car is as reliable as my old diesel benz  !!! but the gas millage is nothing to be happy nor upset about.

Jimbo

#4
Oh yeah and this car has over 200,000 miles on the clock !!! HAHA its as reliable and more powerful than my 1960's six cylinder Ford Falcon's !!!!

Squiggle Dog

Jimbo,

Is that a grille guard on the front bumper of the car in your avatar? :o I have been trying to find out about them for years!
Stop paying for animal cruelty and slaughter. Go vegan! [url="https://challenge22.com/"]https://challenge22.com/[/url]

1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Heated Seats, 350,000+

Jimbo


Squiggle Dog

OHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH! :o I have been trying to get one of those for years but they are hard to find and I don't know if they are an original accessory, aftermarket, or what. There is a 1977 450SEL for sale locally with them but I would have to buy the car at $1,450, remove the bumper parts, then resell the car to try to recoup some money, and in the real world the car would probably only bring $600. You are lucky to have this rare option. Most people seem to think they are ugly, but I love them. Check out my thread here: http://forum.w116.org/interiors-and-exteriors/w116-overridersgrille-guards/
Stop paying for animal cruelty and slaughter. Go vegan! [url="https://challenge22.com/"]https://challenge22.com/[/url]

1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Heated Seats, 350,000+

Jimbo

LOL !! Thats what I paid for this car, $600 bucks... I got it from Miami FL from some crazy cuban dude and I love the car at first I did not care for the grill guard and wanted to remove it but over the past few weeks I think I really like it I will try to post a pic of the rear bumper it has some guards to.

Squiggle Dog

Let me know if you ever want to sell them. I have complete bumpers and bumper parts I could trade so you wouldn't have holes in them where the parts used to be. I was going to pay the car dealer $100 for the over riders but they declined. Since then I have acquired a set of 6.9 bumpers which I will use unless I find a set of these.
Stop paying for animal cruelty and slaughter. Go vegan! [url="https://challenge22.com/"]https://challenge22.com/[/url]

1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Heated Seats, 350,000+

Jimbo

I did want the euro bumpers they look really clean but if I hit someone I know that these USA bumpers will destroy whatever it hits and then keep going im sure, I would hate to see any kind damage done to the body of a 35 year old car because of some jerk that can't drive and pulled out in front of me, the euro bumpers do look really good but it's not worth it to me anymore.

This is my everyday driver.

Squiggle Dog

I like the USA bumpers too. The 6.9 bumpers I have are even bigger than the regular USA bumpers because they have a heavy rubber covering over them (true bumper-car bumpers).
Stop paying for animal cruelty and slaughter. Go vegan! [url="https://challenge22.com/"]https://challenge22.com/[/url]

1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Heated Seats, 350,000+

Jimbo

#12
HAHA OMG!! its funny that these old mercedes from the USA turned out to be the real tanks with these nasty truck bumpers they came with LOL !

Im not sure if these bumpers with the guards were aftermarket or not ?


Squiggle Dog

I have been trying to find out myself. It looks like in the 1960s the dealer added extra bumper overriders to some cars. I have seen a set of 1960s overriders with a grille bar connecting the two pieces, which may have evolved into these in later models, so I am thinking it was a dealer option, but it could be a generic J.C. Whitney accessory for all I know!
Stop paying for animal cruelty and slaughter. Go vegan! [url="https://challenge22.com/"]https://challenge22.com/[/url]

1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Heated Seats, 350,000+

oscar

Wow, with respect to your other thread squiggle I didn't realise there was that chrome bar across the grille.  That's awsome! Always liked the overriders and they're rare in Oz but I've never seen the real big ones let alone that grille bar. Great buy jimbo.
1973 350SE, my first & fave