So, in my long-running battle with my starter, I realized that probably the easiest way to get access to the starter bolt I can't get a wrench on is one of two things: disconnect the exhaust from the headers, or disconnect the transmission line that runs right next to the starter, which will give that line some 'play' so I can get a wrench on the bolt.
Of the two, the transmission service was already on my docket. I was just wanting to wait until the starter was done because, well, one project at a time.
Since it now looks like it'll be necessary, does anyone know:
1) Which bolt to remove to (properly) drain the transmission? I suspect "any" will work, but I know some don't drain fully/properly if you don't use the correct bolt.
2) if this looks like the parts for replacing the filter/gasket? RockAuto says they are, but I'm a bit reluctant...
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=478747&cc=1367580&jsn=2162
Matt I also had to remove the transmission fill tube, this is what you are seeing there I am assuming. I removed the whole filler tube, there is a hold down bracket at the back of the motor, and then of course you need to also remove the coupling on the pan, and be ready to catch a lot of fluid. Then remove the pipe and dipstick as a unit, this will give you more room to get a socket on there.
Then of course you can drop the pan and change the filter. I only use Mann filters personally on the transmission, I simply do not trust Meyle etc brands on a critical piece of equipment such as a trans filter.
Yep, the dipstick tube is the only way on most 116s. On the 6.9 though it may be better to use the other front pump line out the side of the pan if yours isn't a Euro setup. This is a bit lower I think. Unfortunately there isn't a pan drain plug like on earlier and later models.
Draining the torque converter is also important.
Tim
Quote from: daantjie on 17 May 2020, 11:18 PMI only use Mann filters personally on the transmission, I simply do not trust Meyle etc brands on a critical piece of equipment such as a trans filter.
Do you've a part number for the Mann filter, by any chance?
109 270 02 98
Quote from: TJ 450 on 18 May 2020, 09:42 AM
Yep, the dipstick tube is the only way on most 116s. On the 6.9 though it may be better to use the other front pump line out the side of the pan if yours isn't a Euro setup. This is a bit lower I think. Unfortunately there isn't a pan drain plug like on earlier and later models.
Draining the torque converter is also important.
Tim
How on earth do you get to it? As I recall the TC is hidden behind the flywheel/flex disk/whatever-it's-called.
There is drain bolt which you can access through the slats at the bottom of the bellhousing. I think from memory it's a 5mm hex. You have to rotate the motor until it becomes visible of course ;)
Yep, I call that "starter roulette." My 6.9 does not have the screwdriver pry marks on the bottom, so it appears that someone took it to a mechanic who had a helper. I used a remote camera and turned the engine at least a dozen times before the drain plug in the torque converter was aligned with the hole.
Starter roulette!
(https://i.imgur.com/NrUSYX9.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ORtl2d6.jpg)
Why not just turn the crank by hand? I guess you need a helper for that, so if you are solo then you need "Starter Roulette" ;D
It's easy enough to do it by yourself, it takes a bit of time and patience though... best done with the spark plugs removed so you don't fight the compression.
Tim
Quote from: PosedgeClk on 19 May 2020, 10:37 AM
Starter roulette!
(https://i.imgur.com/NrUSYX9.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ORtl2d6.jpg)
Brilliant!
Good idea
With the transmission in neutral, the converter can be easily rotated with a plastic/wooden wedge or wide flat screwdriver. No need to crank the engine.
I get that, and the guy who sold it to me is a mechanic who has been working on these things for 40 years or so, and he made the same suggestion. He said that I would probably see marks on the torque converter from a flat head screwdriver, but I didn't, and I didn't want to leave the signs of a Tennessee redneck on the converter and on the edge of the guard. The guard looks like cast aluminum anyway, and I don't like touching the stuff.
Rotating the torque convertor with a screwdriver doesn't touch the TC. You use the teeth on the ring gear. The bell housing will not get dented as it is fairly easy to turn it when using screwdriver.
Yep, it's safe to do. If you're lucky, it's seconds. If not, maybe 2-3 minutes for a full turn with small, gentle nudges.
I've done it both on my W116 and W124, and apart from some minor marks on the converter housing, no further drama to report :)
Question: is the transmission filter the same between the M117 and the M100 automatic transmissions? RockAuto lists the Mann filter for a 6.9 as H1991KIT, and while Mann's website doesn't list making a filter for the 6.9, they DO list the H199/1KIT as the correct filter kit for the 4.5L v8. Can somebody tell me the right number? If not, I'll just order the Beck/Arnley.
-Yes, they're the same filter. Use the filter kit Mercedes part number for reference. 109-270-02-98. The MANN and other aftermarket numbers are not all that useful for the very reasons you're experiencing. Also, the actual Mercedes filter kit is still available for not a lot of money....around $42 USD.
Quote from: UTn_boy on 23 May 2020, 04:26 PM
-Yes, they're the same filter. Use the filter kit Mercedes part number for reference. 109-270-02-98. The MANN and other aftermarket numbers are not all that useful for the very reasons you're experiencing. Also, the actual Mercedes filter kit is still available for not a lot of money....around $42 USD.
Good to know. I might order from the MBCC, then. I think Mann was selling it for $55. The few times I've talked to MBCC about part numbers, the cost vs. buying direct from the manu was big enough I just quit bothering with them. I understand they need to make money, but a 30+% markup on things they're just swapping boxes on was a bit much, for me.
While I'm asking questions, another one: My 450SE 6.9 has the auxiliary transmission cooler mounted, plumbed, but not belted. I suspect that has to do weird things to the transmission's functionality (since, in theory, the fluid could flow to the auxiliary cooler, but not get pumped back, which means it might slosh around in the pipes on either side of the pump?). I was contemplating adding a belt to it, and hooking up the aux cooler since it's plumbed, but maybe the better solution would be to simply remove it, and cap the lines? I don't live in an area that gets overly hot (maybe 10 days of 80-90F degree weather per year), so I don't think it's necessary.
Matt I think you might be confusing the oil cooler on the side of the rad for the actual auxiliary trans cooling pump circuit? The aux trans cooling pump still uses the cooler at the bottom of the rad, not the side. It does have check valves in the pump to keep fluid cirulating properly, or to channel fluid if the AC belt breaks. If you are yanking your trans pump I'll be interested in buying it off you, if you are keeping it and hooking it up I can walk you through it, pretty easy but you must hook it up right otherwise you can cook your trans ::)
Quote from: UTn_boy on 23 May 2020, 04:26 PM
Also, the actual Mercedes filter kit is still available for not a lot of money....around $42 USD.
It's just a re-packaged Mann.
Quote from: daantjie on 23 May 2020, 07:05 PM
Matt I think you might be confusing the oil cooler on the side of the rad for the actual auxiliary trans cooling pump circuit? The aux trans cooling pump still uses the cooler at the bottom of the rad, not the side. It does have check valves in the pump to keep fluid cirulating properly, or to channel fluid if the AC belt breaks. If you are yanking your trans pump I'll be interested in buying it off you, if you are keeping it and hooking it up I can walk you through it, pretty easy but you must hook it up right otherwise you can cook your trans ::)
In the front of the engine, at the very bottom is a small unit that has room for a belt, but isn't belted. It definitely has feed lines going from the transmission, has two going into the bottom of the radiator, and then back to the transmission. If I'm not feeling lazy tomorrow, I'll snap a picture and upload it, or stuff it on Instagram and link it, or whatever seems easiest.
Yup that be the one, only fitted to US and Australia models, I guess ze Germans figured it gets a tad hot in the Outback and in Death Valley ;D
Here is a schematic that should demistify it somewhat ;)
Quote from: daantjie on 23 May 2020, 10:37 PM
Yup that be the one, only fitted to US and Australia models, I guess ze Germans figured it gets a tad hot in the Outback and in Death Valley ;D
Here is a schematic that should demistify it somewhat ;)
Thank you for that! Mine isn't belted, so it looks like the pump gets automatically bypassed. In that case, I'll just leave it be. Someday, when I get the time/energy to work on getting the AC running, I'll probably throw a belt on it so it can function as an idler for the compressor. Until then, I'll live with a car that cooks me.
OK but you might want to check your setup at the bellhousing check valve. It has a ball/check valve on the line that runs on the LHS (in driving direction) of the car. If you hook the pump back up you must ensure thar the ball valve is present otherwise fluid will flow back into the trans and not follow the cooling route through the rad cooler. You can PM me on this so we don't clog up the thread ;)
Quote from: daantjie on 24 May 2020, 06:09 PM
OK but you might want to check your setup at the bellhousing check valve. It has a ball/check valve on the line that runs on the LHS (in driving direction) of the car. If you hook the pump back up you must ensure thar the ball valve is present otherwise fluid will flow back into the trans and not follow the cooling route through the rad cooler. You can PM me on this so we don't clog up the thread ;)
If I find the time to get to it, I'll do so. For now I want to get the car back to the point where it's running, so I can finally resume my investigation of the K-jet system, and try to figure out why my car doesn't want to hot start.