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Started by McNuggets, 16 August 2020, 06:23 PM
Quote from: daantjie on 17 August 2020, 04:55 PMAnother topic you need to address would be coolant of course. I would also just go ahead and change the thermostat as well.Do not try and drain the block via the drain plugs at this point. Just drain the radiator, expansion tank and the hoses as much as you can. Then fill with Zerex G-05 Coolant (Valvoline) diluted 50/50 with distilled water. The 6.9 water pump needs to be a babied as much as you can and coolant changes are cheap insurance, they are pricey and hard to change out, so preventative maintenance is key.Cheers
Quote from: McNuggets on 22 August 2020, 11:48 PMI wrote out a longer summary of the car's status but one of the photos I attached was too small, and the page deleted what I had written Anyway, some of you had asked for pictures of the car and right now what photos I have are in a jumbled heap in google drive, in apple's silly .HEIC format. I've attached a few small photos to this post, and will try to get hold of a small digital camera for the future. Yes! Pics are so helpful!While waiting for FD and WUR rebuild kits to arrive, PM or email me on FD rebuild. The kit instructions (if any) are entirely inadequate. Also, it's still far in the future, but you'll need to pick up a fuel pressure gauge kit if you don't have that already.I removed them from the car, along with the 8 injector lines and the airflow meter. I set about looking at some of the vacuum connections on top of the engine, and decided I should replace or cap off as many as possible until I have a running engine. This plays to the smog question. All the vacuum connections do something - if they're capped off you won't have a running engine, or at least not a properly running engine. Sooner or later they'll all need to be right.To that end, I've ordered 8 new injectors, 8 injector seals, the two U-shaped rubber hoses at the idle air control valve, the rubber seal between the airflow meter and throttle body, and the vacuum tubes between the WUR, ignition distributor, and intake manifold. I would like to remove the intake manifold entirely as it would allow me to clean the intake manifold, plenum, throttle body, and the inside of the vee, but doing so would mean needing to replace the eight rubber seals between the underside of the intake manifold and the plenum. For the 117 engines, genuine MB parts are available for about $8 each. EPC shows a different part number for the M100, 100-140-04-65, which I've found only in one or two places and which costs $70 each. Has anyone tried fitting the M117 seals to the M100? The photos look identical, but I cannot be sure of the diameter and I cannot compare a M117 seal to what's on the car without committing to this, or spending $70 on a single rubber seal. I tried and can confirm that they are not the same. The M100 seals are indeed bigger. But to my surprise mine weren't bad. Yours may be OK too. If you take it apart you'll be able to easily see how well they seal. It's not at all impossible that they'll be OK. There's also the question of the intake manifold gaskets: can these be reused? I've found a complete set of NOS asbestos gaskets for 50 Euro, but I'd rather leave it all alone if the rubber parts are not known to leak air commonly, and if I need to spend hours scraping asbestos gaskets to do the job.I doubt that they can be reused, but maybe somebody else knows better. Mine came off perfectly clean, not like the usual head gasket mess. But.... The Classic Center has (or had) left and right gasket kits that are pretty reasonable. They include head gasket, intake manifold gasket, valve cover gasket and other odds and ends (can't recall exactly what). Email them, very very worthwhile.There's also a rubber Y hose that leads from the idle air control valve to the two cylinder banks. On the 4.5, I think this is P/N 116-090-01-82 but on the 6.9 the shape and orientation is slightly different. I can't find it in EPC, and the P/N molded into it (100-090-00-82?) brings up nothing in internet search. Does anyone know where this hose can be found? Mine is rock-hard and I want to replace it.Can't help with this at the moment. In one of the below pictures (I hope), you can see a piece of yellow plastic at the right of the FD. This is an extra fuel injector, which dumps fuel from the WUR control pressure port into the FD return port, allowing an ECU (which I've still not been able to find) to fine-tune the control pressure similarly to KE-Jet. There's also a Purolator brand charcoal canister haphazardly hose-clamped in place, which I want to replace with the boxy OEM style canister, if it will fit.I've never seen that yellow thing before. For sure, it's absolutely not something on a stock Euro engine. Nor is there any kind of ECU whatsoever, at least on euro engines. I'd dump all that stuff and return to stock. Also, USA heads have a couple vacuum fittings, not sure where they go. The euro heads don't have any such fittings and the casting has plugs instead. It might be helpful to confirm that you've got euro heads. Maybe others can comment further.
Quote from: McNuggets on 22 August 2020, 11:48 PMEPC shows a different part number for the M100, 100-140-04-65, which I've found only in one or two places and which costs $70 each. Has anyone tried fitting the M117 seals to the M100? The photos look identical, but I cannot be sure of the diameter and I cannot compare a M117 seal to what's on the car without committing to this, or spending $70 on a single rubber seal.
Quote from: McNuggets on 22 August 2020, 11:48 PMThere's also a rubber Y hose that leads from the idle air control valve to the two cylinder banks. On the 4.5, I think this is P/N 116-090-01-82 but on the 6.9 the shape and orientation is slightly different. I can't find it in EPC, and the P/N molded into it (100-090-00-82?) brings up nothing in internet search. Does anyone know where this hose can be found? Mine is rock-hard and I want to replace it.
Quote from: raueda1 on 23 August 2020, 10:57 AMAnother thought just occurred to me. Should you decide to take off the intake manifold, there are a couple bolts that are close to or connected to the cooling passages. Apparently these often freeze, as mine did, and so naturally the head shears off. Now you've got a loose manifold that's impossible to remove cause there's still 10mm of bolt shaft sticking into the manifold preventing it from being lifted off. Drilling it out is pretty ugly. Lesson: psychologically prepare yourself and be ready to deal with it if it happens.
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