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removed my rear subframe

Started by Big_Richard, 26 January 2009, 03:35 AM

Big_Richard

This time im doing things properly, no half assed efforts.

Wheel bearings will be replaced professionaly - one is horrendously noisey making metal on metal noises, cant even move it by hand easily.-

brake calipers getting rebuilt tomorow.

All bushings pressed out and new ones waiting to go back in.

steel subframe getting powder coated, cast aluminium trailing arms painted

new stainless steel brake hoses, new strut gators.

new sway bar shackles and bushings.

new hand brake cables, mechanisims and pads.

differential already resealed and half shafts rebooted last time i dropped it.

All disks and pads aready new.

Its all an eyesore to look at now, but i wont when its ready for reinstallation  8)




removal as you see there took 2.5 hours on my back, with tools at hand lying in filth. Done this twice now so i can do it blindfolded.

This car is making me learn about my self as well as the car, take time, take care, do things properly, do them once.

Niclas

Wow, this is what we all are dreaming of - all new bushings and everything. You got to report how the handling caracteristics changed after you have test driven it!

About the wheel bearings, I guess you already know, but you need the right tools to take it apart. It's extremely time consuming to try to take it apart with with shitty tools like those I used ;D

/Niclas

s class

2.5 hours is pretty quick for that.  Well done. 


[color=blue]'76 6.9 Euro[/color], [color=red]'78 6.9 AMG[/color], '80 280SE, [color=brown]'74 350SE[/color], [color=black]'82 500SEL euro full hydro, '83 500SEL euro full hydro [/color], '81 500SL

Big_Richard

I'm the one who screwed up the wheel bearings. There was nothing wrong with them originally, i purchased the tool and replaced them, the noisey one in all reality seems way too tight. But i swear its also the one that i couldnt tighten enough without bending tools. It started getting very noisey after towing a furnature trailer. Now if moved by hand it makes grinding noises and is more difficult to move than it should be.

A job best left to professionals. I'm eating alot of humble pie latley, going to have to go on a diet.

TJ 450

Whoa, that's awesome! How high did the car have to be and where did you place the jack stands? I still can't get over how impressive that is and more-so, what it will be like afterwards. 8)

Tim
1976 450SEL 6.9 1432
1969 300SEL 6.3 1394
2003 ML500

WGB

You are going to have to park it over a mirror like the hotrodders do.

Great job.

Bill

Big_Richard

well, as you know, i am a fat bastard, so i had to have the chassis stands extended all the way on the rear to give sufficient room for my rotundous frame to unbolt everything underneath.  8)

On the rear the stands are holding the rear of the car up by the stabilizer bar bushing mounts - its the only place i could think of that wouldn't cause significant damage.

Tj - I will be requiring your special made tool for unscrewing strut balljoints at some stage - hell, you can even do it while i watch, i don't mind  8)

oscar

Quote from: TJ 450 on 26 January 2009, 05:28 AM
and where did you place the jack stands?

I wanna know what you used as jack stands?  If I remember right, the last time, when you did the bearings there was this scary pic of cement bricks or similar holding it up ??? (scary to me because I'd inadvertently kick the brick over and squash myself)  ::)

Great job PB, you gonna paint the subframe as well?
1973 350SE, my first & fave

Big_Richard

Quote from: oscar on 27 January 2009, 03:05 AM
Quote from: TJ 450 on 26 January 2009, 05:28 AM
and where did you place the jack stands?

I wanna know what you used as jack stands?  If I remember right, the last time, when you did the bearings there was this scary pic of cement bricks or similar holding it up ??? (scary to me because I'd inadvertently kick the brick over and squash myself)  ::)

Great job PB, you gonna paint the subframe as well?

Times were tough in those days so bricks were all i could use  ::)

Indeed it shall all look nice n painted - the problem is not scratching the hell out of it when it comes time for re-installation.

I'm on 2 weeks vacation in Adelaide from Monday so there wont be much progress other than the calipers being rebuilt and the stainless steel brake hoses until after i come back. Stainless brake hoses have to be custom made as old merc owners seem to be a boring bunch who never ask for them so they are very hard to come by if at all. I will be the test mule, and if they are satisfactory i will sell additional sets to forum members. On the BMW where i first experienced them, they made a massive difference, as they don't swell like rubber hoses under the immense pressure of the braking system, 100% of what you press on the pedal is what presses the pads on the disks, there is no expansion possible anywhere, brakes become super responsive and locking them up gets even easier  8) Ideal for racing w116's ;)



oscar

ooh yeah, definitely.  I found braided hoses late last year in the US for older BMW's and so many other cars but none for w116's.  I gave up.  I'll be real keen to hear how they go and a rough cost.  Would be great to have a few interested.  8)
1973 350SE, my first & fave

Big_Richard

#10
Quote from: oscar on 27 January 2009, 03:44 AM
ooh yeah, definitely.  I found braided hoses late last year in the US for older BMW's and so many other cars but none for w116's.  I gave up.  I'll be real keen to hear how they go and a rough cost.  Would be great to have a few interested.  8)

BMW E23 fronts are the same as W116 rears - 100% certain as i have them both and know for a fact.

BMW E24 6 series fronts look long enough for 116's fronts but im not 100% certain.

w116 rears are around 13 inches long, end to end, female to female
w116 fronts are around 17.5 inches long, end to end female to male.

an E23 kit would actually do a 116, but the fronts would be 2 hoses per side and a gender changer will be required at one end.


TJ 450

I would gladly assist you with those strut balljoints. Do you plan on changing the balljoint boots, if required, with KOK versions? ;D ;)
My 6.9 have been supported by bricks, at the front, for some months now. Next weekend I'll replace them with proper jackstands, now that it's brought to my attention. 8)
I've been thinking about those braided SS hoses every time I see them... I reckon they'll be excellent.

Tim
1976 450SEL 6.9 1432
1969 300SEL 6.3 1394
2003 ML500

OzBenzHead

Quote from: Patrick Bateman on 27 January 2009, 03:36 AM
[...] Stainless brake hoses have to be custom made as old merc owners seem to be a boring bunch who never ask for them so they are very hard to come by if at all. I will be the test mule, and if they are satisfactory i will sell additional sets to forum members.

I assume, PB, that these are braided hoses in s/s?  If so, and if they would suit a humble 280SE (and others of my Benzes), put me on the "interested" list, please. Mine will soon be due for replacement on my 116 and two other cars (220Sb and 300SE), and the idea of s/s braided hoses is attractive on first consideration.

Can anyone suggest any possible drawbacks?
[img width=340 height=138][url="http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a215/OzBenzHead/10%20M-B%20Miscellany/OBH_LOGO-2a-1.png"]http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a215/OzBenzHead/10%20M-B%20Miscellany/OBH_LOGO-2a-1.png[/url][/img]

Big_Richard

the hoses are on there way, I probably wont be able to test drive the car for a couple months now, but will happily supply them to anyone interested.

Big_Richard

Quote from: TJ 450 on 27 January 2009, 04:57 AM
I would gladly assist you with those strut balljoints. Do you plan on changing the balljoint boots, if required, with KOK versions? ;D ;)
My 6.9 have been supported by bricks, at the front, for some months now. Next weekend I'll replace them with proper jackstands, now that it's brought to my attention. 8)
I've been thinking about those braided SS hoses every time I see them... I reckon they'll be excellent.

Tim

Assistance greatly appreciated, i certainly will be replacing my balljoint boots with KOK brand boots, for the whopping sum of $5.00 per pair.

Maybe ill stick $147.50 markup each on some disguarded second hand balljoints with new boots and sell them on EBay  8)