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Rear CV Axle Rebuild Question

Started by sethkestenbaum, 15 April 2019, 04:49 PM

sethkestenbaum

Does anyone have any guidance on determining if I should replace the axle boots using one of the kits or replace the entire axle assemblies by buying rebuilt ones?  I am looking at this in terms of cost, time, and skillset needed. I have no surplus of these three criteria but want to be certain I do things right and balance the decision.

So you have the details, the outer boot on my 1980 300SD Turbo Diesel's passenger-side CV Axle decided to crack open. At the time, the car was on a lift so I'm assuming that the joints are all in good shape and can be rebuilt.  The driver-side CV axle is aged and will likely start leaking soon, so I want to replace the boots on it as well. Because this job is beyond my skillset, I am recruiting help in the form of a friend who owns a garage that works on several classic cars including older Mercedes. I need to be sensitive of his time  as well as the time spent using his shop space to do this work.

What are the boards thoughts on cost, time and skillset needed to get this job done?  Are there venues that sell quality assemblies already completed? (I've found CVJ Axle online).

Thanks, Seth
Seth Kestenbaum
oldcarroadtrip.com
1929 Model A Ford Phaeton
1969 VW Bug Convertible
1980 300 SD Turbo Diesel getting fixed up
1980 300 SD Turbo Diesel rusty parts donor car

jtwoods4

The same exact thing happened to me. I put the car up on my lift and this caused the joint to fully extend and put a very small rip in the CV boot. All the fluid leaked out on my garage floor overnight. So in other words there was no driving done once all the oil leaked out. I removed my axles and took them to a shop. This was one of those specialty shops that could actually weld, grind and repair axles that had worn too much. They actually said mine looked fine and simply put on new boots and put them back together. Putting on new boots as a simple job if you have the proper tools. Stretching the boot over the existing joint is the trick. Professional shops have tools to do this. there's even a tool called a boot expander that you can hook up to an air compressor.

So here's what I'm trying to say.... if you never drove around on the vehicle and put miles on it after the oil leaked out then your axles are probably going to be fine. however once all the oil leaked out if you drove around then you're probably going to need to repair the axle joint. No oil plus lots of miles equals destroyed joint.

Here's the big question how many miles are on your car? My axles had roughly 150,000 miles on them. So they did not require any repairs during the rebooting.
1980 300SD

sethkestenbaum

The car is "low mileage" and under 150,000.  It wasn't driven with the empty boots and I am assuming that the CV Axles are all fine. I've actually been searching online to see if there are any boot stretchers available via Autozone or other people's tool loaner program.  I even searched craigslist to see if a cheap used one was available.... no luck yet.  I'll check with a few local shops and see if anyone has the boot stretcher tool.
Seth Kestenbaum
oldcarroadtrip.com
1929 Model A Ford Phaeton
1969 VW Bug Convertible
1980 300 SD Turbo Diesel getting fixed up
1980 300 SD Turbo Diesel rusty parts donor car

Squiggle Dog

While I recommend CVJ Axles, it's possible that they won't accept any cores that have torn boots. I was looking through my paperwork and their website to find confirmation of this, but failed to find it. I would ask them about it should you go that route.
Stop paying for animal cruelty and slaughter. Go vegan! [url="https://challenge22.com/"]https://challenge22.com/[/url]

1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Heated Seats, 350,000+

jtwoods4

These guys are in Georgia and they will repair your CV axles by welding and grinding down and make them as good as new if they need repair. if they don't need repair bill just lube everything up reassemble put the boots back on. Took them one day to do mine.

CV source to repair - 678-889-4118.
1980 300SD

Diesel 617

CVJ axles in Colorado has been on my list for a long time. The quote they gave me was 398$, and you need to ship your cores to them for a prepaid label cost of 39$. Core charge is 75$ a piece so its worth it to ship the cores. For the piece of mind of having it done right and avoiding the stress of tearing a boot which is quite common for rookies, they also go in a visually inspect the joint and straighten shafts if need be the whole 9. For me it will be worth it to have a professional do the job right. Our w116 have Homokinetic axles, so you have to remove the cir clip from inside the differential. Axles are easy to remove, make sure to unscrew the top of the shock absorber nut so the nut covers the threads keep it on the shaft though, you'll need every mm you can get. Then use a rubber mallet and ideally a wood punch to maneuver it out the rest of the way.
X3 1980 300SD Blown Heads, trans -Retired
1980 450SEL Parted out/Scrap
1980 450SEL to Diesel Parted Out/Scrap
1979 280SE Euro Spec Cloth Seats Sold
1979 300CD Daily Driver - Sold


Inventory of w116 Parts
[url="https://www.ebay.com/usr/vintagepartsandstuff"]https://www.ebay.com/usr/vintagepartsandstuff[/url]

sethkestenbaum

Has anyone had any problems with the universal boot replacement route with the boot expander?  It looks "simple" and i am tempted to go this route as the axles seem ok (I will check the axles out once I remove them).

https://www.astoria2000.net/
Seth Kestenbaum
oldcarroadtrip.com
1929 Model A Ford Phaeton
1969 VW Bug Convertible
1980 300 SD Turbo Diesel getting fixed up
1980 300 SD Turbo Diesel rusty parts donor car

jtwoods4

I would just go ahead and try it if the boot doesn't leak then it was successful if it leaks then it wasn't successful.
1980 300SD

Diesel 617

There is a thread on peachparts about this. Your either going to get lucky and its works like a charm or it ends of being a horror show with boots ripping.
X3 1980 300SD Blown Heads, trans -Retired
1980 450SEL Parted out/Scrap
1980 450SEL to Diesel Parted Out/Scrap
1979 280SE Euro Spec Cloth Seats Sold
1979 300CD Daily Driver - Sold


Inventory of w116 Parts
[url="https://www.ebay.com/usr/vintagepartsandstuff"]https://www.ebay.com/usr/vintagepartsandstuff[/url]

sethkestenbaum

When I have the axles off to replace the boots, is there anything else I should be doing? 
Seth Kestenbaum
oldcarroadtrip.com
1929 Model A Ford Phaeton
1969 VW Bug Convertible
1980 300 SD Turbo Diesel getting fixed up
1980 300 SD Turbo Diesel rusty parts donor car

jtwoods4

Yes you need to inspect the joint for excessive wear. if there is a lot of wear then you need to replace the axles or send them to the shop that I gave the phone number for earlier and they can repair them good as new.
1980 300SD

Squiggle Dog

It would be a good idea to install new side seals on the differential. Also, inspect the seal surface of your axles for wear, as this may determine whether you should get remanufactured ones, as I don't believe there is a "repair size" seal available, and setting the seal fore or aft of the original placement doesn't seem to be possible.
Stop paying for animal cruelty and slaughter. Go vegan! [url="https://challenge22.com/"]https://challenge22.com/[/url]

1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Heated Seats, 350,000+

sethkestenbaum

I'm looking to confirm that these would be the correct differential side seals: 006 997 67 47

Thanks, Seth

Seth Kestenbaum
oldcarroadtrip.com
1929 Model A Ford Phaeton
1969 VW Bug Convertible
1980 300 SD Turbo Diesel getting fixed up
1980 300 SD Turbo Diesel rusty parts donor car

jtwoods4

Quote from: sethkestenbaum on 25 April 2019, 03:09 PM
I'm looking to confirm that these would be the correct differential side seals: 006 997 67 47

Thanks, Seth

If you scroll down on this link to the pelican part site says something about these being 1983 through 1995

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/0069977347.htm?pn=006-997-73-47-M22
1980 300SD

sethkestenbaum

I think your link was to the one ending in 73-47 and not 67-47
Seth Kestenbaum
oldcarroadtrip.com
1929 Model A Ford Phaeton
1969 VW Bug Convertible
1980 300 SD Turbo Diesel getting fixed up
1980 300 SD Turbo Diesel rusty parts donor car