The garage has informed me that my 116 (1974 SE 280 automatic (no air con) needs a new radiator. There is an 'uncontrollable leak' from the bottom of the rad even with hose replacement. This may or may not be the case according to previous related forum threads. Any suggestions gratefully received. The garage have yet to remove the rad so have no idea what the part number is. I understand rads can be reconditioned - is there anyone in the UK who does it or is it a case of buying a second hand one on line. Apologies for multiple questions.
Many thanks in advance
Any competent rad shop would be able to do this repair in a jiffy. I am sure if you google you will find tons of shops relatively close by to you. Likely they will also recore the rad while they're at it, makes no sense to repair the bottom tank and also not recore at the same time. Can be a pricy affair so also check on local ebay, sometimes you get luckly with a NOS one listed for not too crazy money, only issue is shipping will be a bear and you risk damage of course...
For reference, I had the same job done about 7 years ago and it was almost 800 CAD :o The guy did a stellar job though, so as usual you get what you pay for.
A couple of years ago we had the radiator of the 280S re-cored and repainted after an accident with a grinder. We found a company near Rotterdam which restores and fabricate radiators for cars (pre- and post war). Apparently the Mercedes-Benz Museum is a customer of theirs. If my memory serves me right it was about €400.
This company is somewhat close to you (Birmingham). Reviews also looks good. https://www.readyrads.co.uk/ (https://www.readyrads.co.uk/)
Thanks Matt and Daniel
Very much appreciated
One more tip I can offer is to change out your thermostat, if not known when last it was changed. They are super cheap and easy to change out. Also the correct coolant to run is Zerex G-05, diluted 50/50 with distilled water. Not sure if you get Zerex over there (made by Valvoline I think), great stuff for older Benzes. It is amber - ish in colour, so if you have green/blue coolant in your system it is likely the wrong type.
Thanks for this v useful tip Daniel.
Used to drink thunderbird 'wine' that was similar in colour to orange coolant when we were young - it was known as electric soup in Edinburgh.
Fergus, in the UK and Ireland "Comma Xtreme G48" is the correct coolant. You can get it from Halfords.
Chemically, it's the exact same stuff you get in the bottle from Mercedes.
Quote from: daantjie on 04 August 2021, 09:59 AM
If you have green/blue coolant in your system it is likely the wrong type.
Nope. Green/blue was historically the right coolant. I wouldn't go by colour these days, but by composition. Ethylene glycol, with silicate inhibitors - that's the right stuff.
Or anything with MB 325.0 approval.
As always most helpful
Thanks once again for helpful comments re radiator issues. I found a company close by that reCored the radiator. In the process they found that the leaks had been plugged with radweld powder and there was also a residue of oil in the lower 'well'. All now fixed and fitted unfortunately the transmission is now playing up - High revs before shifting from gear to gear and dropping back a gear / high revs when putting foot down on the accelerator - I went back through various threads on this site and plan to check transmission fluid level, kick down switch and solenoid, transmission modular and vac pressure into the transmission.
Hopefully not some piece of debris that made it's way to the transmission...as the cooling loop runs through the bottom of the radiator crud left in the bottom tank can get into the transmission and cause issues.
Not to panic though, check all the basics first like fluid level yes. Engine must be fully hot and car in Park with engine running. Take multiple readings to make sure fluid reads between the lines on the stick. Also take care not to introduce any lint or dirt while you read the level. These transmissions are stout but need super clean fluid and level correct to shift tight.
Sound advice. It would great to have the car gliding in and out of gears without worrying about over revving the engine. BTW the thermostat was changed at the same time. Cheers
The probability of contamination in the interior of the gearbox after removing/cleaning the radiator is low. That's the job of its filter. However, I'd change the ATF and filter and see what effect it has on the symptoms you described. If you decide to proceed this way, make sure you drain both the oil pan and the torque converter. There's some misunderstandings about the correct procedure. The manual is clear and straight forward though. Preserving the drained ATF and carefully observing the pan internal surface is mandatory. You might (I hope not) find a lot of clues in there that could explain the misbehavior of your box.
Thanks ever so much for your advice. I will let you know how this particular story unfolds.
I finally took the car back to the garage to look at the gear change issue loaded with sound advice from this site (so thanks)
I got the car back last week and the gears are all working really well - no high revvs between gear shifts and it goes like a rocket now.
I asked Matt the mechanic to summarise what he and this is what he emailed
...regarding the gearchange issues I pulled a vacuum on the vac line to the gearbox whilst having the car in gear with someone sat in and adjust the throttle linkage until the car starts to move upon first opening of the throttle its a bity of a juggle all at once but that will sort smoother gear changes.
Well done them and thanks for your help on this site for the constructive suggestions that have helped them work through the issues.
Btw and linked to other threads they have a laddie working in the garage who appears to enjoy working on the car - all is not lost -help maybe on its way...
Indeed the throttle linkage adjustments make a huge difference to how it shifts. The control pressure rod is very much in "marriage" with the vacuum modulator to get that nice, crisp Benz shift ;) Interestingly here in North America a lot of folks were used to softer shifts from US cars of same era. That lead to many folks mistakenly adjusting the trans to shift like a US car, which is the exact opposite of how it was designed, Firm and tight is what you want (in more ways than one 8))
Had same issue with my 450 SEL 4.5 rad, changed the lower rad hose 2 times still leaked and gummed it up with sealant no fix :( my rad is new-ish as picked up from bloke new old stock in New Zealand back in 2007.
Took Rad out and went to Ascott Radiators off Oats Street in Perth (this guy is our old rad savior!)
The issue he identified is the lower metal pipe into radiator is sealed onto a flange type fitting whereas the top metal pipe fits into the top rad tank and provides a stronger lasting seal - think pressing a glass onto the palm of your hand using light force, that's the lower connection, now think holding the outside rim of the glass with your thumb and forefinger tightly, that's the top connection seal.
Fix was to remove the lower pipe and bronze weld seal the lower pipe to rad and leak was stopped and garenteed for life, amen.