I can't believe it broke so easily. I just had it off a couple of months ago to replace the thermostat. I guess it's telling me it wants to be re-cored also. I've taken out the radiator on my 280 SE and had it re-cored years ago and that was pretty basic.
What do I need to know about taking out the radiator on a 6.9? Thanks in advance for any info.
That's annoying, but definitely fixable. Removing the radiator is practically the same as on the 280SE, although there is a lack of space. The charcoal canister needs to be pulled aside if present.
Tim
Euro or USA car?
I've taken the radiator out of a Euro 6.9 and it ain't fun. You have to be extremely careful as it's tight and fluids will be flying.
Come to think of it, I have a spare Euro 6.9 radiator that I had my radiator shop clean up and test if you want to go that route.
It's a USA car. The fluids flew pretty good when I broke the drain plug.
Please check me on this: remove the various coolant lines, 2 clips on top/side, charcoal canister and plastic fan shroud. I haven't thoroughly inspected the bottom of the radiator yet. Are there some oil cooler lines also? Anything else? I looked at the online manual, but haven't found anything on removing the radiator.
Now that I'm looking into getting the radiator repaired, I've come to find out that there are almost no shops left that do radiator re-coring. In all of Metro Detroit, I've only been able to find one shop. There used to be many. I've read that they've been environmentally regulated out of business and of course getting another radiator is a big challenge.
It looks like I have my plan set for the holiday weekend
You are correct, re-coring is a dying/dead business because of the nasty crap that comes out of radiators can't be dumped in the stream behind the shop anymore and all the radiators in cars now are plastic and made to be disposable. Find a shop that repairs gas tanks. They can probably fix it.
Also removing the fan will help a lot and give you some breathing room. Be very careful pulling it out. Spray some lube down on the rubber slides the radiator sits in. You'll want to "pry' each end out to remove it and kind of wiggle it to get it moving. It isn't going to pull straight up with ease. It will take some force.
Thanks for all the great tips. So far everything came apart with no problems. I believe I have everything disconnected and ready except for the two oil/trans lines pictured from underneath.
If anyone knows, how much fluid can I expect to come out of each one? I want make sure I'm ready to collect it so I don't have a huge mess.
About a cup or so is in the transmission cooler itself.
Clamp the oil cooler hoses with fuel clamps (or needle nose vise grip pliers) before detaching the lines to limit leakage from the tranny.
I made bypasses to the radiator hoses and transmission oil cooler to allow 'Stormcloud' to be briefly driven when the radiator was out to be re-cored.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/3889842-post1.html
Thanks to all for the excellent tips.
At this point I can't get the small hose off on the drivers side. I believe that's the last thing to take off. I got the clamp off but can get enough leverage while laying on the ground to get it to slip off the nipple. Also tried putting a wrench on the fitting, but it wouldn't budge. So I sprayed it with more lube and will let it sit overnight. If I can't get it off during my next try, I can always try to disconnect the other end or try to apply some heat.
While I was down there, I put a jack on the bottom corners of the radiator and nudged them one at a time just a bit and the radiator moved up with nicely, so I'm thinking it's going to come out with no problem.
My experience has been a bit different than what I have read from others. I was able to disconnect and just move the fan shroud out of the way just enough to get it out of the way and didn't need to do anything with the fan so far. I've also read about people having issues with the oil cooler, but to me it looks like everything is clear. We'll see tomorrow if it continues to slide up after I get the last hose off.
Those transmission cooler line are not the correct part at all. They are suppose to be a hose assembly and do not use hose and hose clamps. The new ones have a spring on the outside to protect them.
Hey Jim
Be careful (which it sounds like you are) with that lower oil line. you don't wont to strip the threads of the radiator...a whole different problem. When it does come loose, keep spraying the lubricant and go back and forth with the wrench to prevent shearing the threads right off. I agree that the hose is not original. Definitely pull the hose off the nipple, remove the radiator, and then you can work on the threaded fitting on the bench instead of on your back.
Lastly, there is an old school radiator shop in Mt Clemens that can probably do what you need. Superior Radiator Shop. I think its on Grand just north of Cass Ave.
jed
Jed and Rumb, thanks for the good advise. I'm definitely being careful after breaking off the drain plug. I feel pretty stupid for doing that. Usually I'm so careful with everything on my cars because so many parts are brittle and old. Taking anything apart can lead to a big checkbook depletion if you screw up.
Great tip on the Mt Clemens shop Jed, thank you, that one is nice and close to me.
Does anyone have a picture of the correct setup for the oil lines? Or perhaps some part numbers? I'd like to put it back together with the right parts.
Also, when I get everything back together (some day soon I hope) I've read about a citrus flush for the whole coolant system. Is that stuff still available and where can I get it?
I've been trying to read all the posts on radiator removal and found this one:
https://forum.w116.org/mechanicals/how-to-remove-radiator/msg142294/
Squiggle Dog who has given me some great advise in the past wrote:
"Remember to loosen the nuts on the bolts that connect the oil cooler to the radiator. This will hopefully allow you to push the radiator and oil cooler closer together to relieve side tension."
I'm not sure where these are located. At this point it seems like my radiator is loose and will slide up freely. But I want to make sure if anyone can chime in with any oil cooler info. Thanks
https://www.autohausaz.com/catalog/c/mercedes/1977/1367580-450sel/16-cooling_system/10343-auto_trans_oil_cooler_hose?s=d&page=1
My car has two of the straight one.
bulk citric acid powder may be available at your grocery store or local food coop type grocery.
Rumb, thanks for that link, I'll order those for sure and get it correct. A reasonable price too!
This morning I was able to get the last hose off. Still couldn't get the hose to slide off the nipple, but after soaking overnight the fitting broke loose with a wrench. And as you can see I have the radiator jacked up a couple of inches. Now I can see where the fan might be an issue with hitting the various outlet/inlets sticking out on the bottom of the radiator. I'll keep inching it up and we'll see if it will clear.
Jed, I followed your tip and rocked that last fitting a whole bunch before gradually advancing it off and it came off clean.
At this point, I'm still not seeing any issue with clearing the oil cooler or it being in the way.
"Patience and lots of lube" are the marching orders for this job.
Woo hoo, it's out! My biggest concern was the big outlet at the bottom drivers side hitting the fan, but it cleared. After jacking from the bottom, I stood up and wiggle/rocked it a 1/4 inch at a time while pulling up and it graced me with it's presence. As you can see, it wanted out to get re-born.
BTW, it's been 90 degrees and high humidity here in the Motor City the last couple of days, even with a fan blowing directly on me, I have sweated greatly. Great weight loss program.
Also, you can see my original screw up with drain plug. Don't be that guy ha ha
While I have it out, can anyone suggest any other items in that general area that I might inspect while the radiator is out?
I greatly appreciate all the help from everyone. I hope the pics and words help the next person that has to tackle this job
It'd be worth checking the fan clutch since it's out in the open now.
Quote from: ptashek on 05 July 2019, 03:49 PM
It'd be worth checking the fan clutch since it's out in the open now.
ptashek, thanks for the tip. I don't know much about the fan clutch. What would I do to check it please?
Different car, but same principle. Engine must be hot.
Hope it helps.
https://youtu.be/I7RBNHCJUU8
Concerning fan clutch in my opinion if it is over 20 years old then it's worn out.
I have my radiator back from being repaired and re cored. Hope it fits going back in. Did a dry run and it seems ok.
FYI there are rubber pieces right & left that attach to the radiator and slide down the channel. Mine needed to be re attached because the rubber parts that holds them on decayed long ago. I tacked them on with glue and also had to repair one that broke.
For what it's worth, the rubber pieces on the side are super cheap. I think I got mine for $2 each at AutoHausAZ.
First pic start of radiator on it's way back in. So far so good with just wiggling it down with my body weight.
Now that I'm just an inch or so away from being seated, it's tight AF. Did a little mild tapping with a wood block from on top on the radiator frame and it's not moving. I'm going to go down below and jack it up a bit to see if that frees it up then try to get it to go down again. Side channels and rubber sides are well lubed, fan shroud and fan are free and not binding anywhere that I can see. From below everything looks lined up fine.
Any tips at this point?
Might be that the rubber buffers on the side have expanded and are binding?
Might be worth it to spring for new buffers. As mentioned they are cheap as chips.
Quote from: daantjie on 14 July 2019, 12:55 PM
Might be that the rubber buffers on the side have expanded and are binding?
Might be worth it to spring for new buffers. As mentioned they are cheap as chips.
Daniel thanks, you are probably right and I may have to try new rubber. I'm going to take it out all the way and look everything over.
You were right on Daniel and Squiggle Dog . I took it out again and the rubber buffers self destructed and fell apart on both sides while going in. I've order new ones. I'll have to pick this up again when they get here.
One scary thought I'm having is: what if the radiator shop didn't keep the exact size as original? He said he would match it up, but who knows?
Unfortunately, I'm going to be doing a long distance yacht race starting next Saturday and won't be back for 2 weeks. Stay tuned..............
I don't think you'll have a problem with the new rubber supports. Its supposed to fit snug otherwise it would bounce all over the place. Curious, did you have the guys in Mt Clemens recore it?
Are you doing the Port Huron to Mackinaw?!!
Hi Jed,
Yes, I took it to Superior in Mt Clemens. It looks like they did a nice job, thanks for the recommending them.
And yes, I'm doing the Mac race and the delivery back.
I'm back on dry land and just tried to install the radiator with the new rubber buffers. I got everything well lubricated and it went down to the last 2 inches and it wouldn't budge any further. I jacked it out and discovered that the 2 of the rubber tabs on the new left side buffer broker off. The radiator must have got jammed after the buffer shifted. The right buffer held on and is fine. Is it a cheasy part or is it me? I'm going to see if they'll replace it so I can try again.
If anyone knows any other tricks or what I might be doing wrong, please let me know.