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My first self-service

Started by hamidagha, 29 June 2020, 03:00 AM

hamidagha

Hi All
I plan to do the first self-service on my 1979 280SE, 2.8 Petrol.
My question is, what is the best oil/spark plugs?
The car has done 88k miles, the engine runs well (if not a little rich) but before I start playing with it, I want to make sure it is well serviced.
Recommendations highly appreciated.
Thanks

ptashek

For the UK climate I would recommend 10W-40 oil grade. I'm using Liqui-Moly exclusively in all of my cars. Definitely do not go higher than 15W-40.

https://products.liqui-moly.com/mos2-leichtlauf-10w-40-14.html

For spark plugs, you can't got wrong with NGK:
https://www.ngkpartfinder.co.uk/

Non-resistor plugs is what you need.
1993 "Pearl Blue" W124 280TE
1988 "Arctic White" W124 200T
1979 "Icon Gold" W116 450SE

hamidagha

Quote from: ptashek on 29 June 2020, 03:35 AM
For the UK climate I would recommend 10W-40 oil grade. I'm using Liqui-Moly exclusively in all of my cars. Definitely do not go higher than 15W-40.

https://products.liqui-moly.com/mos2-leichtlauf-10w-40-14.html

For spark plugs, you can't got wrong with NGK:
https://www.ngkpartfinder.co.uk/

Non-resistor plugs is what you need.

Thanks ptashek. I always get confused on what model to choose from the drop-down options: on the NGK, I am not sure the 280 is correct option, and I do not see the SE on there. What would you recommend? Also how/where can I find out how many litres of engine oil I need? Thanks

Max-NL

My dad and I use the NGK BP6ES on almost all of our cars except for my 230 coupe (which uses the BP6EFS). We have no problem with them. Fastening torque for the sparkplugs is between 25-30 Nm.

http://handbook.w116.org/Maintenance/MY72/151.pdf Look at pages 5-6-7 for oil capactiy, torque specs and helpfull tips.

We use Mann oil filters. For your car it would be the Mann H929x, which if I remember correctly comes with the rubber seal ring for the filter housing, a crush washer for the bolt holding the housing and 2 crush washers depending on the size of your drain plug. https://catalog.mann-filter.com/EU/eng/catalog/MANN-FILTER%20Katalog%20Europa/Oil%20Filter/H%20929%20x
1971 R107 350 SL
1972 W108 280 SEL 3.5
1975 W116 280 S
1975 W116 450 SEL 6.9 #140
1977 W123 230
1992 W124 230 CE
2001 Ducati Monster S4

Diesel 617

I second BP6EPS. Used on a euro 280SE
X3 1980 300SD Blown Heads, trans -Retired
1980 450SEL Parted out/Scrap
1980 450SEL to Diesel Parted Out/Scrap
1979 280SE Euro Spec Cloth Seats Sold
1979 300CD Daily Driver - Sold


Inventory of w116 Parts
[url="https://www.ebay.com/usr/vintagepartsandstuff"]https://www.ebay.com/usr/vintagepartsandstuff[/url]

hamidagha

Thank you all. My shopping list is now complete.

raueda1

So it begins.  I know nothing of 280SE's or spark plugs so i can't be of any help.  But that's the first step.  Prepare for assimilation.  Resistance is futile. ;D
-Dave
Now:  1976 6.9 Euro, 2015 GL550
Before that:  1966 230S, 1964 220SE coupe, 1977 Carrera 3.0

Max-NL

Not that difficult seeing that the spark plugs are on top of the engine with plenty of room, unlike the 6.9 which is a little bit of a PITA.

Hamidagha, if you have access to an air compressor use it to blow the area in which the spark plugs resides clean before you remove the spark plugs. Or if you don't just use a vacuum cleaner. It's to make sure nothing falls in the spark plug hole.
1971 R107 350 SL
1972 W108 280 SEL 3.5
1975 W116 280 S
1975 W116 450 SEL 6.9 #140
1977 W123 230
1992 W124 230 CE
2001 Ducati Monster S4

hamidagha

Quote from: Max-NL on 30 June 2020, 05:31 AM
Not that difficult seeing that the spark plugs are on top of the engine with plenty of room, unlike the 6.9 which is a little bit of a PITA.

Hamidagha, if you have access to an air compressor use it to blow the area in which the spark plugs resides clean before you remove the spark plugs. Or if you don't just use a vacuum cleaner. It's to make sure nothing falls in the spark plug hole.

Hi Max. Yes I have cleaned all that area with an air compressor. It was just a good excuse to buy an air compressor which of course I did.
Next job is the fuel filter and associated pipes. I will seek advice when the time comes.

daantjie

A good idea to change out all the fuel hoses at the back of tank as part of the fuel delivery package.  Those hoses are relatively cheap and still readily available.  If your pump is original I would  suggest to just change it while you're at it.  Just take off the whole lot and do it on the bench.  Uncle Kent has some good vids on this.  Here is one on a 107 but the methodology is very much the same:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sqgc3N3L2dg

Daniel
1977 450 SEL 6.9 - Astralsilber

midnitesunmerc

Quote from: daantjie on 30 June 2020, 02:25 PM
A good idea to change out all the fuel hoses at the back of tank as part of the fuel delivery package.  Those hoses are relatively cheap and still readily available.  If your pump is original I would  suggest to just change it while you're at it.  Just take off the whole lot and do it on the bench.  Uncle Kent has some good vids on this.  Here is one on a 107 but the methodology is very much the same:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sqgc3N3L2dg

Definitely a good idea - my fuel hoses started to weep a couple of years ago and I quickly found out that they are a size not readily available in my town so I had to order them.
1977 280SE Colorado Gold
1979 280SE Euro model (parts only)

hamidagha

I had a quick look at mine and it does need looking at for sure; while I am at it, I will replace the pump and filter.
Questions:
1. Should I worry about the accumulator? I do not have any issues right now, so I guess if it aint broke don't fox it.
2. There seem to be at least 2 different size pipes (may be more). What inner diameter pipes will I need? I can order them online, but need to know what to ask for and I prefer to have this before I start dismantling,
Thanks

midnitesunmerc

Quote from: hamidagha on 01 July 2020, 10:47 AM
I had a quick look at mine and it does need looking at for sure; while I am at it, I will replace the pump and filter.
Questions:
1. Should I worry about the accumulator? I do not have any issues right now, so I guess if it aint broke don't fox it.
2. There seem to be at least 2 different size pipes (may be more). What inner diameter pipes will I need? I can order them online, but need to know what to ask for and I prefer to have this before I start dismantling,
Thanks

If your car starts and runs okay I wouldn't bother changing the accumulator - I did mine a few years ago when the car became hard to start after it was shut off warm and it fixed the problem.

As for the hoses, there are indeed two sizes - I seem to recall being able to find the smaller size locally but I had to order the bigger one, which is 14mm ID - see attached photo.
1977 280SE Colorado Gold
1979 280SE Euro model (parts only)

hamidagha

Thanks midnitesunmerc, now need to try and source this.
The beast serviced. Now need to learn how to adjust idle and make it purr better. Must admit, it runs really nice but I am sure it could get better. If anyone can give me a tip in how to adjust idle, and try and tune it, it would be appreciated.

raueda1

Quote from: hamidagha on 04 July 2020, 06:56 AM
Thanks midnitesunmerc, now need to try and source this.
The beast serviced. Now need to learn how to adjust idle and make it purr better. Must admit, it runs really nice but I am sure it could get better. If anyone can give me a tip in how to adjust idle, and try and tune it, it would be appreciated.
Until now the fixes have been straightforward.  And so it begins.....  This is a huge topic.  :o

Question is, how well does it purr and why do you think it could be better?  That is, what do you seek to improve?  If it runs "really nice" do you really want to mess with it?  Messing with it can get very involved, more on that below.  Anyway, to simply adjust idle speed use the large, white plastic screw on top of the engine.  However, all that does is change idle speed. 

If idle is rough or lumpy, you run rich etc, and that's what you want to improve, then you're headed down the rabbit hole.  Let's assume that you don't have any vacuum leaks and ignition timing is right.  If you're not sure then start there before even thinking about doing more.  Next, if you really want to get it right, you need to go through the whole fuel injection testing & adjustment process.  There are countless threads on this stuff.  First step is doing a search (rough idle, fuel pressure, too rich, too lean, etc).  It's a huge topic.  The challenge is making sure that everything is right.  There's a Bosch CIS manual on the M-100 site (~15mb pdf file).  It goes through the whole diagnostic & adjustment process from start to finish.  But I think you need to be a member to download.  Hope this is helpful on some level and good luck.  Cheers,

-Dave
Now:  1976 6.9 Euro, 2015 GL550
Before that:  1966 230S, 1964 220SE coupe, 1977 Carrera 3.0