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M110 motor modification

Started by robertd, 18 May 2011, 06:28 AM

robertd

Hi guys,
I'm currently restoring a 1978 28CE that I saved from a slow death at the hands of a novice.
The car looks to have been well looked after by the previous unknown owner.
But in the space of 8 months the young lass that I bought it from had just about ruined it.
It was in a real mess, wet Lucern hay in the boot, chicken pellets on the back seat, hamburger wrappers all over the floor, the car was leaking fuel from a torn pipe under the tank and when I checked the oil the young female exclaimed " oh, that's where the oil goes" The dip stick was dry, but the engine still had oil pressure.
When I got it home the first thing I did was drain the oil, only about 1 litre of black muck came out.
But after a full lube change and a clean the little M110 motor ticks away like clockwork. Testament to Mercedes Engineering.
Anyhow Question:
Does anyone have experience in removing all the "anti pollution " crap that was imposed on the Australian imported cars of that era.
#In particular the plumbing that feed into the exhaust ports in the head,
#will I need to do anything with the timing.
#any other helpful hints will be greatly appreciated.

Regards
Robert
116   1978 450SEL 6.9 #  4848
116   1979 450SEL  6.9 # 5884
116   1979 450SEL  6.9 # 6225  SOLD
116   1978 450SEL  6.9 # 5128  SOLD
116   1979 450SEL  6.9 # 5884  SOLD
116   1974 450SEL  DJet

wbrian63

Cleanest way to eliminate the "smog pump" is to source a set of Euro M110 exhaust manifolds from the same era. They show up from time-to-time on eBay and are probably most easily found on eBay.de. Sadly, like most exhaust manifolds, they're cast iron, which means a ton of money to ship downunder.

That being said, removal is as simple as removing the piping and plugging the holes. I'm not sure what thread pattern is used, but in a pinch, the threaded bushings that hold the pipes to the manifolds could be welded shut after being cut free of the pipes. Depending on how they seal to the manifold, they might have to be machined to create the proper sealing profile, as no sealant I'm aware of will last for long on the threads of anything screwed into an exhaust manifold.

As for changing the timing, I'm not certain removal of the air injection system will make any difference. The main purpose of the system was to add additional oxygen to the exhaust system to increase the efficiency of the catalytic converter (if so equipped) and to allow for a more thorough combustion cycle. Exhaust gases exiting the cylinder in a cold engine are usually very rich and the only reason combustion doesn't continue is all the oxygen has been used - adding more allows the exhaust gasses to burn up as much extra fuel as possible. On later MB's (my former '92 W140 car as an example), the air pumps have a clutch like an A/C compressor and only run for a specific amount of time after a cold engine tickover.

If the car is equipped with catalytic converters, removing them is probably your best bet, but I've heard tales of lower back pressure resulting in lower torque at rpms just above idle. Newer high-flow catalysts are excellent replacements and you do your part to help seal the hole in the ozone...

Others will have better ideas, I'm sure - these are mine.

Regards
W. Brian Fogarty

'12 S550 (W221)
'76 450SEL 6.9 Euro #521
'02 S55 AMG (W220) - sold
'76 450SEL 6.9 Euro #1164 - parted out

"Bond reflected that good Americans were fine people, and most of them seemed to come from Texas..." Casino Royale, Chapter V

plmstr92

Ive removed all the smog gear from my 280, due to the fact the pump was seized and all the associated piping was in poor condition.
Like spoken of before a set of non egr headers is the way forward, or blank off the egr with a blank plate.
When you remove the headers you can then unbolt the air injection rail.Youll be pleased to know that you can kindly 'butcher' the rail for the six union fittings that only need a 5c coin inserting into which forms a blank.This stops any exhaust gas leaking through the injection ports.
Remove all the pipework and valves that runs around and under the harmonic balancer to the pump.Remove the pump bracket as well for extra weight saving.
With all the smog gear and EGR vac lines disconnected, you can downsize your vac system to a minimum.Because i have no A/C i have only one vac line.This is the advance line from the Distributor to the lower portion of the intake.You'll work out what you can junk  ;)
Regarding the timing im running 0* TDC, i have experimented like many other Mb owners though.Its all down to personal choice.I had an earlier style air filter housing(Snout running across cam box and piped across the exhaust headers to the front), i swapped this for a later styled air housing from a w126 which has the forward facing snout direct.This should help the car take in cooler air more effeciently(sorry poor grammar).Ive been running on 5/40 oil as well for some time now.My car has half a milllion K's on it, so hey its having a 'red bull' moment.

Let us know how you get on.  ;D

koan

Welcome back!

My son has a 280 CE, what we quickly learned is that the 280 engine despite it being pretty (in a macsuline way that is, spit!) is a pain to work on, somehow everything is underneath something else, don't know how they managed that. M100 are a joy to work on by comparison

After a little work it goes well, very well, still has a cold running problem that needs further work, needs to warm up for 3 or 4 minutes before it has any power.

As far as the pollution gear goes, the air injection into the exhaust manifold is not a problem, apart from the air pump rattling, I'd leave that as it is. EGR is a problem though, if only because it deposits all sorts of rubbish on the inlet side of the engine. To keep the stock look I'd leave all the plumbing intact and block off the the exhaust manifold where the EGR valve mounts with a piece of stainless steel.

BTW, He just took delivery of one of those ebay AMG cam box covers that was discussed some time ago.

koan
Boogity, Boogity, Boogity, Amen!

robertd

Thanks for your input guys, I have taken note and have started with the de-cluter.  All the old vac pipe are gone, the air pump gone, the air con pump and hoses gone ( car has a sun roof ).
and a donor car (1973 280SE) (A Real Barn Find with birds nest in the battery cradle and rats nesting in the spark plug valleys ) has happened to come along at the right moment. It has the early exhaust headers free of all the ADR stuff.  so I will transplant them after a good clean. Its motor has the earlier type fuel injection,
I have also gone hunting at the wreckers and located a later model air filter housing so I done away with the original over the top snorkel. in affect my goal is to totally stream line the engine bay.
I should take some before and after photos before its too late.
Cheers
Robert
116   1978 450SEL 6.9 #  4848
116   1979 450SEL  6.9 # 5884
116   1979 450SEL  6.9 # 6225  SOLD
116   1978 450SEL  6.9 # 5128  SOLD
116   1979 450SEL  6.9 # 5884  SOLD
116   1974 450SEL  DJet


robertd

Hey Stork,

Nice job, I really like the look of the Euro Headers but I don't think they will fit a RHD car cause the steering box will be in the way.

Cheers
Robert D
116   1978 450SEL 6.9 #  4848
116   1979 450SEL  6.9 # 5884
116   1979 450SEL  6.9 # 6225  SOLD
116   1978 450SEL  6.9 # 5128  SOLD
116   1979 450SEL  6.9 # 5884  SOLD
116   1974 450SEL  DJet

Stork

I believe the euro headers on the right hand drive car are different. I think its called the Y pipe headers (someone correct me...) Anyway just wanted you to see that it is pretty straight forward removing all the smog stuff (but a bit of a pain in the arse) If yours has the A/C you are going to have to remove the compressor as well. I have heard of others hollowing out the cat but supposedly it makes a terrible noise if you do that.
Good luck on the conversion!
Robert

plmstr92

My car has these headers fitted
Im not sure what spec car they are of.


These are the ones with the Y piece.
Theres no cat on my car.

s class

The pic above is the standard arrangement for 280S/SE euro spec, right hand drive.  No emission control equipt. 


[color=blue]'76 6.9 Euro[/color], [color=red]'78 6.9 AMG[/color], '80 280SE, [color=brown]'74 350SE[/color], [color=black]'82 500SEL euro full hydro, '83 500SEL euro full hydro [/color], '81 500SL

robertd

I have attmpted to upload photos, but I cannot find the upload icon anywhere on the gallery page? help please
Rob
116   1978 450SEL 6.9 #  4848
116   1979 450SEL  6.9 # 5884
116   1979 450SEL  6.9 # 6225  SOLD
116   1978 450SEL  6.9 # 5128  SOLD
116   1979 450SEL  6.9 # 5884  SOLD
116   1974 450SEL  DJet

vlv8vic

Quote from: robertd on 21 May 2011, 02:51 AM
I have attmpted to upload photos, but I cannot find the upload icon anywhere on the gallery page? help please
Rob

Rob every now and they I find i have to log out and log back in for the upload options to appear. Not sure why this is.

jbrasile

robertd,

Pls confirm you VIN number so I can get you at least the correct p/n numbers for the non emission headers and maybe even check if they are still available from MB.

Tks,

Joe

robertd

Thanks Japes, I logged out and all is good again.
Photos to come
116   1978 450SEL 6.9 #  4848
116   1979 450SEL  6.9 # 5884
116   1979 450SEL  6.9 # 6225  SOLD
116   1978 450SEL  6.9 # 5128  SOLD
116   1979 450SEL  6.9 # 5884  SOLD
116   1974 450SEL  DJet

robertd

#14
The 280CE engine bay
Work in progress to De-Clutter
116   1978 450SEL 6.9 #  4848
116   1979 450SEL  6.9 # 5884
116   1979 450SEL  6.9 # 6225  SOLD
116   1978 450SEL  6.9 # 5128  SOLD
116   1979 450SEL  6.9 # 5884  SOLD
116   1974 450SEL  DJet