"long term grease" for crank shaft oil seal ???

[s class]

The procedure (from the library of this site) for installing the crank shaft front radial oil seal says to coat the area between the dust lip and the sealing lip with "long term grease".  What kind of grease is suitable here?

I have access to the castrol range of greases.  Is there any issue with rubber compatability?  I thought I might use Castrol high temp wheel bearing grease on the assumption that its fine with wheel bearing seals and therefore perhaps with the crank seal?

Can anyone shed any light?

Ryan

[s class]

Patrick,

Thanks for your help.  It makes sense what you say.  I'm just stressing now about the reassembly.  The manual in the library says the front crank bolt must be torqued to 400Nm on the M110 - oh my.  FWIW the M117 is specced at 270 - 330Nm I think.  I bit less but still very high. 

I have managed to hire a torque wrench capable of 850Nm.  I will collect it this afternoon - I imagine it must be quite a brute. 

[s class]

Patrick the torque specified is so high that yes I am concerned.  I imagine this torque wrench is what we south africans would call "makhulu" - zulu for humungous.  I was concerned that there may be an error in the manual, but it makes several references to 400Nm and lists under the special tools required a  torque wrench capable of at least 500Nm.  I also checked the M117 manual for comparison, and it is at least in the ballpark.

The manual says that a sealant may be used around the outside of the seal to prevent leakage pat the outside.  In my case I will do this becuase there is a bit of discontinuity between the block and the sump.  I am thinking of Hammerite Hermetite red - any ideas?

[s class]

I don't have the correct crank lock.  I was told (by a a mechanic who's experience I trust) that the trick is to place a 13mm socket onto the head of one of the bolts that secures the flywheel to the torque converter.  It worked when I removed the front bolt, but admittedly the torque was nowhere near 400Nm.  I would guess it was maybe 150Nm based on the effort it required to loosen. 

Sorry more questions - when I refit the water pump, is it a good idea to put sealant on the gasket or not?  The old one didn't have sealant and it was not leaking.  I thought a bit of sealant couldn't hurt. 

[koan]

When I did the front seal my "crankshaft lock" was a bit of 1/4 in mild steel plate with a hole in the middle and six holes to match the holes in the hub (I used the pulley as a template).  About 3 feet of 2 in angle iron was bolted to the side of the plate.

Screwed to the crank pulley and end of the angle iron sitting on the concrete I used a 3/4 drive socket and about 5 feet of pipe to undo the nut, even then it was tight.

As far as  400 Nm, about 300 ft.lbs tightening torque goes I don't think its that  critical, I used the same setup as loosening (angle iron changed to other side) and heaved on the pipe.  I doubt enough torque could be applied to the nut to strip it. I thought about a spring balance at 5 feet pulled to 60 lbs to give 300 ft.lbs but I didn't go that far, just used it as a guide to how hard to heave - plus a bit just in case.

I enjoy making things out of bits of steel to do these jobs.

(I seem to have gone imperial today :)

koan.

[s class]

koan,

Thanks for the suggestions.  You are also putting my mind at ease about the torque.  I was so worried about stripping the bolt that I have bought a new one and new cone washers as well.  Just being my usual over nervous self.