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Long Commute

Started by JasonP, 29 April 2013, 09:45 PM

JasonP


Hey guys,

Well, I now have to commute about 100 miles per day to my new job. I have a 1979 300SD, which is running great, but things like

- steering being loose,
- worn oil seals on the filter housing, turbo
- sweating fuel return lines (!),
- and a drooping exhaust pipe

are my top priorities right now. Not to mention A/C - I wanted to go all old-school and restore the A/C, but now I am considering just putting in a new system. Restoration can wait!  :P

Any hints or advice on what to look for, PM-wise, in order to avoid catastrophe?  I was also wanting to put together a road-side fuel filter kit, so I would know how to change both filters en route (not the tank one!).

1979 300SD
Color: 623H "Light Ivory"
1979 300SD
Color: 861H "Silver Green Metallic"
1977 280 E
Color: 606G "Maple Yellow"
-------------------------------------------

gf

Id replace any sweating lines ASAP. Replace all those old rubber rings that hold the exhaust, replace oil seal - should come with each new fliter. Until you get that sorted make sure you have enough spare fluids on your trips incase something goes bad on the way, and keep some wire incase that the rubber rings holding the exhaust go.  Are you using diesel or  vege oil for fuel?

JasonP


Thanks, gf.

I run on diesel.

The oil filter housing leaks at where it attaches to the engine block. I wanted to replace that seal, and both oil return hoses, all at the same time. I wanted to do it myself. It looks difficult only in the matter of reach-ability, but I don't know. This is my daily driver, and I have only the weekend to get it done.



1979 300SD
Color: 623H "Light Ivory"
1979 300SD
Color: 861H "Silver Green Metallic"
1977 280 E
Color: 606G "Maple Yellow"
-------------------------------------------

ZCarFan

You also need to identify why the steering is loose.  If it is the box and some play in the steering coupler then maybe not anything but annoying.  If it is worn parts, fix them.   Nothing will seem exciting in life again after you lose your very first first tie-rod end.  ;)

Squiggle Dog

Replacing the tie rods, center link, ball joints, and steering damper will tighten up the steering considerably. An alignment is necessary after replacement. If all that work is done, whoever does the job should tighten up the steering box (I recommend a Mercedes dealership as usually their alignment costs are reasonable and they usually know what they are doing and have the correct tools). This is a good chunk of change, though.

By lifting up the front of the car and rocking the wheels back and forth, you might see only one or two parts in dire need of replacement, and might be able to replace only one or two parts and adjust the new part as close as possible to the old part and get by without an alignment for a while. When you're on a limited budget, it can be difficult to replace entire groups of components (as I've discovered myself). I've already replaced the steering box with a rebuilt unit, installed a new steering coupler, and had an alignment, but I think before long the tie rods and center link will need replacing as they've started to loosen up in the last two years.

Weeping hoses should be replaced, not only because of the potential to burst, but also because air leaks through smaller spaces than fluid, and if the hoses are leaking fluid, chances are they are also leaking air bubbles into them.

The seal between my oil tower and engine block leaks, also. I bought a new seal, but realized that a special large wrench is needed to loosen the oil cooler hoses. So, that's a project for another day.

It's April and already over 100 degrees here, so I feel you when you say you'd like working air conditioning. I'll probably have to suffer through another 120 degree summer in a black car before I have working air conditioning, but I was at least able to get the windows tinted and installed a sun shade, which helps a lot.

These cars are fairly simple, so just looking under the hood while the engine is running, inspecting the car periodically, and replacing parts that leak or clunk usually keeps them on the road. Commuting 100 miles a day in a 300SD is quite awesome, and can be done if the car is well-maintained. Driving thousands of miles across several states has been something I've been able to do with confidence. Once you replace so many parts, there's not much that can go wrong.
Stop paying for animal cruelty and slaughter. Go vegan! [url="https://challenge22.com/"]https://challenge22.com/[/url]

1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Heated Seats, 350,000+

WrightSounds

Quote from: ZCarFan on 30 April 2013, 09:44 PM
Nothing will seem exciting in life again after you lose your very first first tie-rod end.  ;)
That sentence alone makes my palms sweaty!

Changing the two fuel filters is pretty straight forward JasonP. It was one of the first things I did since the in-line filter was black and who-knows-how-old. I think all you'll need is a flathead screwdriver to remove the hose clamp. The other filter is screw-on.

Good luck with your new commute. Sounds fun to me  :D

ZCarFan

Quote from: WrightSounds on 30 April 2013, 10:12 PM
Quote from: ZCarFan on 30 April 2013, 09:44 PM
Nothing will seem exciting in life again after you lose your very first first tie-rod end.  ;)
That sentence alone makes my palms sweaty!
...

I will admit, that has not happened to me, but more than one customer of mine went through it.  All were cases where "they knew better" but did not fix the bad part until it broke.

I on the other hand had a Chevy LUV that broke in half (nearly, there were bitty strips of upper frame rail left) and that raised an eyebrow.

I have also been in three cars that lost a front wheel while in motion.  One was my fault, the other two the result of somebody using metric nuts on SAE studs.

JasonP


When I first bought the car, it needed a tie rod and ball joint, and I did drive it on the highway and felt the "drift" from those loose components. What is happening now feels different: the car just cannot stay in a straight line. So over time, I have to adjust the steering. Also, sometimes it pulls really hard to the right, but then after about 30 minutes or so on the highway, it straightens out a little bit (sometimes) and does not pull anymore - although it still does not go straight with my hands off the wheel.

On top of this, that damn metal knocking coming from inside the steering wheel is incessant. It only goes away when the steering is actually engaged to the left or right, but when driving straight, it seems to find this empty place where it can vibrate and knock. Exits on the highway are a godsend because I can let my hands off the steering wheel and let the car drift in a long, slow curve, and the knocking goes away.  8)

Vibration gets bad over 70mph, but under 65 it is very minor. This I just chalk up to needing a rotation/balance.





1979 300SD
Color: 623H "Light Ivory"
1979 300SD
Color: 861H "Silver Green Metallic"
1977 280 E
Color: 606G "Maple Yellow"
-------------------------------------------

ZCarFan

Sounds like you have a bad steering coupler.  That is what is making the rattling noise.  When you have to dial in constant steering input, it remains solid with the pins hard against the metal of the joint and is quiet.  Once steering is neutral again, it floats back and forth and makes a metallic rattle.

Likely, the wandering feel is loose steering parts (tie rods, idler arm, etc) causing a slight toe-out condition while rolling.  To achieve that famous "locked on rails" feel, Mercedes specified a lot of caster and a bit of toe-in with the alignment.  Both Caster and toe-in are the prime drivers of a neutral on center feel.  If you have toe-out or insufficient caster, you will find the car follows the small undulations in the road more readily, making you use constant, small steering inputs to keep it straight.  To make it worse, any slop in the steering makes it more difficult to "catch up" to the changes without a good deal of deliberate and conscious effort.  You catch up, then over correct, then back again, back and forth....

When the car is right, it will go straight even if there is a fair amount of play on-center.



JasonP

Quote from: ZCarFan on 03 May 2013, 10:35 PM
Sounds like you have a bad steering coupler.  That is what is making the rattling noise.  When you have to dial in constant steering input, it remains solid with the pins hard against the metal of the joint and is quiet.  Once steering is neutral again, it floats back and forth and makes a metallic rattle.

I think you nailed it.

I have a whole other steering system on my parts car, but that one as well has the rubber bushings gone on the coupler. Is there a quick fix for this rattle? Perhaps I could wedge something in there to dampen the noise? I know there is a great thread around here about rebuilding these couplers.


1979 300SD
Color: 623H "Light Ivory"
1979 300SD
Color: 861H "Silver Green Metallic"
1977 280 E
Color: 606G "Maple Yellow"
-------------------------------------------

Squiggle Dog

If the rubber on the steering coupler is completely missing, you could probably use a very short section of small hose, cut one side, then try to wedge that up there. I would say you could probably force a whole bunch of rubber sealant up there if it hardened to be firm enough. Maybe force a bunch of JB Weld up there. Haha.
Stop paying for animal cruelty and slaughter. Go vegan! [url="https://challenge22.com/"]https://challenge22.com/[/url]

1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Heated Seats, 350,000+

JasonP

Quote from: Squiggle Dog on 04 May 2013, 07:31 PMMaybe force a bunch of JB Weld up there. Haha.

That would be a permanent fix now, wouldn't it?  ;D

1979 300SD
Color: 623H "Light Ivory"
1979 300SD
Color: 861H "Silver Green Metallic"
1977 280 E
Color: 606G "Maple Yellow"
-------------------------------------------

ZCarFan

I tried the idea of forcing silicone into the coupler before.  It stopped the rattle, and helped the steering a bit, but still felt "spongy" at the wheel.

Autohausaz. has the steering coupler for a good price.  Don't waste your time messing with it, just get a new one.  The hours you waste could have gone into something productive to earn the $$$ difference. 
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=1mg4po553gberzecnlz3a445&partnumber=1154600510

Replace the tie-rods as assemblies as it is cheaper and they come with new sleeves and clamps.  Once you get the alignment right, you should save enough in fuel and tires to pay for the rebuild.  This is, I believe, a good case where you can get stuck with short-term savings that cause long-term costs, then the cycle repeats.  The same exists in other aspects of life as well, so it is an interesting lesson ;) 

Oh, and remember, each dollar saved on fuel is another that can be put into repair/maintenance.  I used my 300SD for a 60 mile daily commute for a while even in Georgia's summer months without A/C.  The key is to leave early in the morning when it is reasonable cool, never drive in midday (stay at work for lunch) and leave after the sun goes down.  This not only saved the cost of A/C repair, and fuel (from driving outside of rush hour) but also indirectly ensured a constant cashflow for the toys; showing such dedication.

JasonP

Quote from: ZCarFan on 05 May 2013, 11:29 AM
Oh, and remember, each dollar saved on fuel is another that can be put into repair/maintenance.  I used my 300SD for a 60 mile daily commute for a while even in Georgia's summer months without A/C.  The key is to leave early in the morning when it is reasonable cool, never drive in midday (stay at work for lunch) and leave after the sun goes down.  This not only saved the cost of A/C repair, and fuel (from driving outside of rush hour) but also indirectly ensured a constant cashflow for the toys; showing such dedication.

It's amazing how constraints on our lives often open up new doors and new possibilities. We all seek ultimate freedom, but when we get it, we just sit there, not knowing what to do. Thanks for the tips!

1979 300SD
Color: 623H "Light Ivory"
1979 300SD
Color: 861H "Silver Green Metallic"
1977 280 E
Color: 606G "Maple Yellow"
-------------------------------------------

JasonP

#14
I put together a routine checklist I will perform every weekend, to stay on top of things. Here is what I found today, for shits and giggles.


Sunday checklist:

A.   Oil Level
A little under max level.

B.   Coolant Level
About 1/4" below top level.

C.   Steering Fluid Level
Perfect.

D.   Tire Pressure (psi)
a.   Left Front: 31
b.   Right Front: 31 (needs plug)
c.   Left Rear: 26
d.   Right Rear: 30

E.   Odometer
256587

F.   Fuel Level
3/8 full. (~ 6.75 US gallons)

G.   Wiper Fluid Level
Fine.

H.   Engine compartment Visual Check
Usual, nothing new.

I.   Body Visual Check
Side rail on the passenger side (under the doors) is - I keep needing to push it in - the plugs are not holding. It is secure at the back and the front, but the middle is bowing out.

J.   Battery Level
a.   Engine off: 12.90 V
b.   Engine starting dip: 11.3 V
c.   Engine running: >14 V

K.   General Cleanliness/Orderliness in Cabin
Tidy up.


I was able to top everything off except the air in the tires and fuel. Hopefully, this will allow me to catch things before they become a problem.

1979 300SD
Color: 623H "Light Ivory"
1979 300SD
Color: 861H "Silver Green Metallic"
1977 280 E
Color: 606G "Maple Yellow"
-------------------------------------------