Knocking then stall - now won't start at all

[ponton]

I think pistons are in the 200 dollar range.  Sounds like an expensive proposition.  I would suggest making friends with the guy who mans your parts counter .  If you do all the stripping of the block machine work can be done for a few hundred dollars.  You probably want to check your bearings and head for work needed too.  Seal kits will run you a couple hundred as well.  Good luck! Keep us up to date.

Ian

[mbrassart]

The hunt for a donor engine has started.  I'll take a running one if I can find it, or I'll take two engines and make one good one.

Here is my question: Are all the 617 engines the same?  I'm not finding a lot of 300SD's out there, but some 123 chassis with (what seems to be) a similar engine.

I read that the older ones were only 80 or so horsepower with a smaller bore, but all the ones from 617.950 on look the same to me.

Matt

[mbrassart]

I found an engine about an hour away.  It's from a w123, but I think the only difference between that engine and a w116 engine is the oil pan.  I'm hoping a 617 is a 617.

It is getting empty under the hood.

[ponton]

if it was a turbo model you should be fine.  the internals are different between turbo and non however. looking good.

ian

[mbrassart]

Finally got a donor engine.  It came out of a 123 with about 160,000 miles on it.  It was a little more than I planned to spend, but it was from a place that I have dealt with before, and lots of the wrecking yards I was talking too didn't feel right.

They said they tested the compression at 350-400 on each cylinder prior to pulling it.  I have 90 days to get it in and tested under warranty.

This is about 100 times larger than any job I've ever done before, but aside from the freezing weather here in the Pacific Northwest - I'm pretty motivated.

Here it is...wish me luck.



I'll keep you posted.

Matt

[mbrassart]

Tonight I got the radiator out, and all the remaining hoses, wires, and linkages removed from the engine.  I disconnected the refrigerant lines also (oops) which, according to the service manual wasn't necessary.

I climbed underneath and removed the six bolts that hold the transmission to the crossmember.

I still have to disconnect the transmission from the drivetrain, probably drain the transmission fluid, and there are some electrical connections and grounding wires as well.

Then I think all I have left is the engine mounts and then lift.

I think I have 1-3 hours left before I can pull it. I'm hoping this weekend I'll have it out.

More pics to follow.

Matt

[CraigS]

I was beginning to think the photo was upside down, but then I realised I am down under !

[ponton]

When I pulled my engine, I was able to remove the engine and transmission together if that is easier for you.  This was the first time I did anything "major" to the car too.  It is a lot less frightening once you get the engine back in its hole and everything else only has one place it can go.  Keep track of all the nuts an bolts  .  Good luck!

Ian

[mbrassart]

I have everything disconnected except the two hex bolts that hold the engine to the frame.  Does anyone know what size allen wrench they are?  I have up to 10mm and they are too small.  I only want to run to the store once more...

The engine and tranny should be out today!

Matt

[mbrassart]

That was one LONG day....



Matt

[Squiggle Dog]

It looks like you've made a lot of progress. I wonder how those pistons got so rough. I've head that recently there have been many reports of bad diesel ruining engines: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/309367-warning-all-diesel-owners.html