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Jack stands, placement

Started by TJ 450, 10 September 2008, 11:55 PM

TJ 450

Having already had my 6.9 on stands/bricks for a few months, I'm now wondering as to what the consensus is regarding placement of such. :-\
At the moment the rear is supported beneath the sub frame, and the front is supported right at the subframe mounts. However, I would like to remove the front sub frame soon ! I certainly don't want to bend anything.

Tim
1976 450SEL 6.9 1432
1969 300SEL 6.3 1394
2003 ML500

oscar

Wish you asked this a few days ago when I had POVO on stilts.   I could've taken photos.

I bought all this from an auto one shop back in Feb, cost about $300 all up.  the stands are 4ton and I'm not sure what the jack is rated to.  All chinese but they held up 2200kg of a Ford Terri and spent a few weeks under the canary yellow 280, not to mention the 350 and povo.  No probs.



For the front I jack where two box sections come to a Y junction just before the bottom of the firewall.  The stands are dropped to a minimum and placed on either box section close to the Y.
For the rear I jack under the subframe mounts then extend and put the jacks close to the wheels under the box section attached to the floor and runs between the wheels.  It's the box section that has the level control valve on it.  On one side it's tight and I can't remember what's in the way but it fits.

I'd be keen to hear if there's somewhere more forward to put the front stands though.  At the moment the box sections I use fit perfectly in the cradle of the stands.
1973 350SE, my first & fave

WGB

I put my hoist and axle stands under the front main frame members - but as this is non-removable I guess you are talking about the front "Yoke" which runs across between the members and to which the front suspension attaches.

It should be simple to put the axle stands under the mainfram which leaves you free to drop the yoke i.e.Transverse beam.

At the rear I either use the rear subframe or the subframe rubbers or under the rear jacking points on the sill - but my car is structurally sound and not all cars are sound at the rear jacking points.

Bill

koan

At the rear I use the sub frame mounts and the front where the cross yoke bolts to the body.

To get the yoke out I supported the body just under the front jacking points - with lots of safety timber under the body in case any thing moved while I was under there.

koan
Boogity, Boogity, Boogity, Amen!

TJ 450

That transverse beam is exactly what I need to drop, along with the lower control arms to replace all lower bushes. Its mounting points are what's supporting the car at this point. I think I will shift them back to the area oscar speaks of. Thanks for the tips. :)

Tim
1976 450SEL 6.9 1432
1969 300SEL 6.3 1394
2003 ML500

oscar

Found a photo if it helps.  Excuse the mess it was a while back ::)  I don't know the name of all the parts on the underside but the need to drop everything from the body was the reason I put the stands where I did on the wreck and once put there they didn't need to be moved.   

The front stands are basically in line with the jackpoint in the sill so it's not a bad area after all and the overhang of the engine bay is the same.  I've had both povo and the 350 up like this and the box sections haven't been damaged but use a rag or similar over the stands' cradles if you are worried about chipping the stonechip coating.



1973 350SE, my first & fave

koan

Just don't try to jack or support on the rear suspension cross piece, the big "spread legs" bit that the diff front bolts to and goes from side to side, it is pretty thin sheet metal and dints easily.

koan
Boogity, Boogity, Boogity, Amen!

pez

The option you have, given that you are intending to drop the front & rear subframes to replace bushings, is to simply support from the pinch weld at the intersection of the rocker in inner rocker [aka bottom rocker pinch weld]. I would do this in the general area of the jack points.

If you have ever seen a car at a body shop, this is how they support them.  Just a tiny little jack that has a slot which allows the pinch welded bottom rocker to sit in it, and the entire body is super stable. This keeps things straight while you work on the car, and allows you to work on the suspension, too.

I believe that you can get good quality jack stands in either normal cradle style tops or the style I am describing.

atatexan

Great suggestions all. I am about to flush brake fluid on the 350SE. Good suggestions for safety and car preservation!
1975 Euro 350SE
1992 Euro C124 300CE-24 Sportline 5-speed Getrag
2002 R170 SLK320 6-speed
1986 190E 2.3-16 - sold
1987 W126 300SDL -sold
1994 E420 - sold
1968 W108 250SE - sold
1962 W111 220Sb - sold
1969 Porsche 911T, 911S
1980 911SC
1974 Citroen DS23

UTn_boy

Quote from: pez on 12 September 2008, 08:37 AMThe option you have, given that you are intending to drop the front & rear subframes to replace bushings, is to simply support from the pinch weld at the intersection of the rocker in inner rocker [aka bottom rocker pinch weld]. I would do this in the general area of the jack points.

If you have ever seen a car at a body shop, this is how they support them.  Just a tiny little jack that has a slot which allows the pinch welded bottom rocker to sit in it, and the entire body is super stable. This keeps things straight while you work on the car, and allows you to work on the suspension, too.

I believe that you can get good quality jack stands in either normal cradle style tops or the style I am describing.

If you support an older Mercedes at the pinch welded areas on the rocker panels, the rockers will bend/cave in. 
1966 250se coupe`,black/dark green leather
1970 600 midnight blue/parchment leather
1971 300sel 6.3,papyrus white/dark red leather
1975 450se, pine green metallic/green leather
1973 300sel 4.5,silver blue metallic/blue leather
1979 450sel 516 red/bamboo

rumb

true, unless you only use directly under jack points and you know they are good. The bottom of the internal jack point is welded to the bottom of the inner rocker. Thats also the same spot rust starts eating, so be sure.when in doubt, don't.
'68 250S
'77 6.9 Euro
'91 300SE,
'98 SL500
'14 CLS550,
'16 AMG GTS
'21 E450 Cabrio