Is this true about replacing Windscreen rubber seal ???

Started by ESO, 22 November 2006, 09:42 PM

ESO

I am planning to change all the rubber seals for my W116 280S, someone told me that during the replacement process of the windscreen seals, due to the design, the glass has a fair chance to break, is this true?

Besides, can anyone give me an internet contact who can suuply good quality & price rubber seals?

Thx

ERIC

nathan

this is what i get told, when ive had it done...particularly when the rear screen on a 116 (with the fine demisters) costs well over 2 grand new from benz
regards
nathan
1979 116 6.9 #6436
2018 213 e63
2011 212 e63
2011 463 g55
2007 211 e500 wagen
1995 124 e320 cabriolet
1983 460 300gd
1981 123 280te

oscar

Hi ESO,

Where abouts are you in the world? In Australia you could check out http://www.mbspares.com.au/.  In the US or anywhere really you could check out autohaus arizona.  I've bought things from both and have found them helpful.  I'll wait to see where your from before I suggest anything else.  Keep in mind, the best deals and quality may not necessarily be on websites or ebay stores.

I'll be keen to hear how you go with it, not sure if the glass breaks or has to be broken.  Still waiting on someone to tell me how to do it but I know Projectbone recently did http://forum.w116.org/index.php/topic,746.msg6157.html#msg6157
1973 350SE, my first & fave

Papalangi

The library has instructions for glass replacement, http://handbook.w116.org/chassis_73_4l.htm

Basically, you pull back on the rubber from the inside metal flange and push the window out.  If you go to fast, press to hard, or let it get uneven or if the galss has any chips or scratches, it will break.

If you don't plan on saving the old seal, you can cut it from the outside to relieve some of the pressure.

Michael
'83 300SD, I'm back!  It's the son's new car (12/2020)
1976 450SEL, 116.033  Sold it to buy a '97 Crown Vic.  Made sense at the time.
1971 250C, 114.023
1976 280C
1970 250/8

Bandolero

I've just had both windscreens replaced on my two 116's with no problem. (They were old.)
The rubber was replaced on one and the other rubber was ok.
I watched as he did it and it was easy.
However to "rope" the rubber from the inside you have to remove the mirror, the inner A pillar trim, the sunvisors and loosen the upper, inner trim so the rope will clear.
Not hard at all and I don't see why the windscreen would break.

Next week I am having the rear window replaced as it has de-laminated.
Apparently you have to remove the rear seats, remove the parcel shelf and the inner trim around the rubber, again so that it can be "roped."

PS: The windscreens only cost me $200 each as I know the guy that did the repairs and of course they were aftermarket. Full tint and banded at the top.
Looks great.

PPS: I bought a perfect rear window with the wires etc for $100 at the wreckers.
Russell Bond - (Adelaide, South Australia)
1978 450SEL 6.9 .... #5166 .... 12/78 (Sold.) [url="//www.ezycoat.com.au"]www.ezycoat.com.au[/url]

oscar

Quote from: Das Spezielle Auto on 23 November 2006, 03:38 AM
Ive never broken a windscreen before, and Ive dismantled alot of cars in my time, both rubber seal types and permanently bonded types.

When you see the knuckledragging apes that replace windscreens for a living, and how rough they handle the glass, its no wonder they expect to break them everytime they remove them. They aren't prepaired to take the time and cut the join properly, they are under pressure to do things in as little time as possible and half the time, the finished job is less than satisfactory anyway.

This is the reason the trim on my A-pillars is so scratched.   A quick question, are our windscreens bonded at all or just silastic as a sealer?
1973 350SE, my first & fave

ESO

1st of all, million thanks to all of you for providing me the useful information that I need. Today is the 1st day the car is with my mechanic friend for major service. I knew the previous owner and I know that his family was the very 1st owner of the car, which has been quite well looked after.


This has been proofed during the oil change process as the oil was very clean BUT still I would change them just to play safe. Belts have also been changed today, tomorrow; I shall be able to get the car back.


While I was there at the workshop, with the car jacked up, I had a good look at the body all round and noticed that I surely will need some welding and painting work done for the body, so a new set of seals to start off with is going to be a MUST. There are small rusting spots on both sides of the body and at the rear wheel arch, and so as the bottom of the windscreen. What I am suffering is that I am at the same time working on a W107 which I got from a friend 7 months ago, so I have to keep driving this W116 without much work can be done. Anyway, I really do appreciate all your information and kindness. BTW, I used to live in Melbourne but I am back in Hong Kong.

Thank you

ERIC

oscar

Sounds like an interesting car ESO. Of course now we expect pictures  ;D  It's a real problem working on a car that needs to be driven.  I've had my 350 for over 2 years now.  Time is flying by and I've got sooo much more I want and need to do to the car.   The plan was to buy another runabout whilst I fixed mine but every time I start saving a little, it goes back into the 350.  Any q's just ask.  I'm about to pick up a 280s myself and know very little about the 280 engine so you'll probably do a lot to help me.

Regarding the rubber seal, there was a US ebay store that sold windscreen, boot, door rubbers for w116's but I can't find it sorry.  They used to appear in my ebay searches all the time but now I can't find them.  Have no idea what's available in HK, you may have to move back to Melb ;)
1973 350SE, my first & fave

ESO

Hi Oscar,

Thx for your reply. I will surely keep you posted with pics. The thing is the government registation charges are according to engine capacity. That means, the smaller the engine, the cheaper it will be. That's why I prefer 280 than 450 which of course is a good choice. I was told these M110 (2,800cc) engines are quite reliable and smooth, nice to drive and do not drink as much petrol.

Anyway, talk to you later.

ESO

oscar

Out of curiosity ESO, what does your 116 or similar cost to register in HK.  I just got a shock getting my rego papers today for renewal,  $453AUD. (350USD) includes $90AUD for simple custom number plate. I think we pay on tare weight. mine is listed @1700kg. 3750lb.
1973 350SE, my first & fave

Bandolero

Yes, Styria is right.
CASH, no receipt!!!
He also tinted both my cars the same way. (Cheap)
So much for GST stopping the cash jobs!
Russell Bond - (Adelaide, South Australia)
1978 450SEL 6.9 .... #5166 .... 12/78 (Sold.) [url="//www.ezycoat.com.au"]www.ezycoat.com.au[/url]

ESO

Hi Oscar,

For registration fees, from 1500-2500cc, cost is about USD700. from 2500-3500cc, it is about USD1000. From 3500-4500, I think it's about USD1200. from 4500cc onwards, it about USD1500.

Also, for some reasons, I realized that the front windscreen bottom half looks a bit smoky at the moment, might due to age problem. What do you think? I am planning to have whole car rust repair and a new paint job done sometimes 1st 1/2 of next year. Shall I wait until then and change the screen?

BTW, just to mention, the previous owner of the car has put a set of W126 alloy wheels on the car which I really don't like. I spent 1/2 day this morning drove all the way to the wrecker and bought a set of original alloys for about AUD300, then I got myself a set of new Michellen tires, 195 / 70 / R14, very hard to find as 17in and 18in wheels are too popular these days. I am happy.

Thx

ESO

Bandolero

#12
Hi all,
Well, it's all done. Replaced my de-laminated rear window with a new (secondhand) one, fitted & tinted. (On the 6.9.)
Not as hard as I thought it would be.
The fitter is experienced on Mercs which is a bonus.
I helped pull the rear seats out, rear parcel shelf and the outer trim off.
Didn't have to remove any interior trim which was a bonus as well.
The rear window was tinted before it was fitted onto the car this made it easier to tint. Cash again and only $200 total including the tint. (I supplied the screen.)
Looks GREAT!!!!!!!!
PS; Also, NO RUST around the rear window frame. I was petrified there would be.
Russell Bond - (Adelaide, South Australia)
1978 450SEL 6.9 .... #5166 .... 12/78 (Sold.) [url="//www.ezycoat.com.au"]www.ezycoat.com.au[/url]

Bandolero

"I also see you have robbed the poor bugger again."

Ha Ha, thanks Styria.

My luck has to change.
I hit a kangaroo in the 280SE, superficial damage, but still has $4000 damage.
Insured, so it will be ok.
Bonnet, headlight, radiator, rad support, grille etc. very lucky that I was only doing 65 kmh.
Get the car back in 2 weeks.


Russell Bond - (Adelaide, South Australia)
1978 450SEL 6.9 .... #5166 .... 12/78 (Sold.) [url="//www.ezycoat.com.au"]www.ezycoat.com.au[/url]

dizzyD

I had both front and rear windscreens replaced on mine. I did the back one myself and did not have to remove anything, I had just wraped 2 wrap-around the window seal of rope, well alot smaller rope, It the stuff I use for grading landscape, fairly strong. It took me less than 3 hours to cut out and put in that window.
As for the front, I had cut out the old seal and tried the rope trick to no avail. I broke down and called an installler, they did it for 150.00 US. I bought both seals off ebay, had them on for over a year now with no leaks, whew.